16
TWO HOME DRESSES
Home-dress. —Here Is a very pretty home-dress in Saxe-blue fine sergfe.
The skirt has a narrow front breadth and circular sides. A strap of galloon in
darker shades of the same color trims each side front. The over-bodice is cut
with kimono sleeves, and has a deep fold over the shoulders to waist each side.
It is trimmed with galloon like the skirt; the rucked undersleeves and tucked
front are attached to lining. The fastening is down the center back.
Materials required: 6 yards 46 inches wide, 6Va yards galloon, 6V& yard*
sateen for lining, 2 yards silk 22 inches wide.
Blouse Costume. —For morning wear a skirt of some plain material, such
as fine serge, cashmere, or wincey, with blouse to match, always looks trim
und smart. The skirt we show here is in navy blue cashmere lined with
sateen. It is a nine-gore pattern, just off the ground all round.
The blouse is quite simply made with two tucks over the shoulder to the
waist, back and front, then one over the shoulder nearer the front, and one up
to the collar. The front is fastened by bone buttons. Linen collars and cuff#
a. re worn.
Material required: 6 yards 46 inches wide.
LACE COATS FOR SPRING.
'Beautiful and Desirable Ornament Is
to Be Fashionable.
Cluny lace shows signs of being the
<most popular of the laces for summer
suits and voile dresses, although dur
ing the season just passed it has di
vided honors with the ever fashionable
-Irish. Even the lace coats for sum
mer use are made of this pillow lace,
and during the last three years It
lias relegated renaissance lace to its
proper use for curtains and table cov
ers.
Cluny is a very beautiful and desir
able ornament for any costume and
because it la made of a linen thread
!t is especially appropriate as a dec
oration for linen dresses. At the same
time it is not as expensive nor as
heavy as the Irish crochet.
Some of the lace coats are tinted to
a deep shade of tan, while others of
■white are lined with silk in some light
Bhade. The popularity of cluny will
also prevent coats of embroidered filet
net from coming strougly into vogue,
for the darned net, no matter how
beautiful it may be, always has a ,
darned look, while lace should really j
V 'k like lace.
It is yet too early to tell definitely
how smart the lace coats will be
made for ordinary wear, but certain
it is that, if they are worn on the
street, they will not be strictly good
form.
DAINTY NIGHT DRESS.
The neck of this dainty night dress
is square in the front and round in the
back. The sleeves are shaped circular
pieces, full at the top and trimmed in
lace.
The New Shield Clamp.
A handy little device that will prove
a biessing to the busy woman who
loves neatness has appeared in the
shops. It is a very small metal clamp
for attaching the shield to the
waist, or underwaist without sewing or
pinning. It grips the edge of the
shield and waist, holding them firmly,
and is so 11 a■. as to be entirely unno
tieeable. The clamps are made of
j?o!d plate and nickel, and range from
15 cents to 25 cents per set, one set
bi'ing four clamps, enough for one
waist.
Enter Pinafore Style.
The woman with a passion for ren
ovation will find much comfort in the
fact (hat. some of the newest Paris
models show the pinafore outline
rround the shoulders. For, by remov
ing the sleeves of last year's gown,
• cutting away the bodice both back and
ifront, and edging with silk passemen
terie, presto, there is conjured forth a
little garment ready to be drawn over
the dainty underbodice demanded by
the pinafore style.
HOME-MADE AROMATIC VINEGAR.
Toilet Necessity That Is Comparative
ly Easy to Prepare.
While that familiar old saying, "A
peck of dust is worth a king's ran
som." may have truth for its founda
tion, it brings in its wake bad colds,
inflamed eyes, headaches and a host
of minor discomforts, writes Emma
Paddock Telford. Our grandmothers
used to make great use of aromatic
vinegar at such times, claiming that It
afforded relief to headaches, relieved
dizziness and faintness and even pos
sessed great anti-epidemic qualities.
At all events its pungent scent
and fragrant odor rendered it grate
fully refreshing. And what more can
we ask?
Most of the aromatic vinegar pur
chased in shops is nothing but sul
phate of potash put up in small vials
Impregnated with acetic acid made
aromatic with oil of rosemary or lav
ender. A far better article can be
made at home after this old recipe:
Take four ounces each dried rosemary
tips and sage leaves, two ounces dried
lavender flowers, two drams bruised
cloves and four quarts distilled vine
gar. Macerate these Ingredients in a
wooden or earthen vessel for a week,
then filter the liquor and bottle. Some
add camphor.
Garnishing for Lingerie Gowns.
Embroidered linen and lace medal
lions and galloons make wonderfully
effective garnishing for lingerie
gow«ns, whether placed at intervals
upon the skirt or arranged entre deux
with tucks, smaller sizes of similar
pattern being employed for the blouse.
The lingerie costume, of course, is
worn over a silk slip, preferably of
chiffon taffeta, which, having no dress
ing, does not crack nor make tho
rustling sound that is now considered
as an indication of vulgarity, for the
refined young woman, however ath
letic, is expected to be a soundless,
velvet-footed, soft-voiced person of re
tiring manner, although entirely self
possessed. Therefore, lingerie gowns
which look simple whatever their ".ost,
perfectly suit her pose.
The Corsage.
It is only natural that with the prin
cess and empire gown should come
the silk corsage, that bodice that fits
like a co-set and can be made into
one of the most elaborate bits of dress
imaginable. Just now the new corsage
is quite short and it is rather plain
across the front to give a princess ef
fect, but the sides and under-arra
pieces will be furnished with finest
metallic laces and glistening trim
mings of every description. The cor
sage is pointed at the front and back
of the yoke outline, straight across the
lower edge of the back and slightly
rounded at the waist line. It Is sleeve
less, though the guimpe sleeves are
bits of beauty as well as the pretty
lace yoke.
Lace Luncheon Set.
To make an attractive and inexpen
sive luncheon set procure at the cur
tain goods department filet curtain
lace for about 05 cents a yard. Four
of the squares make a plate doily, one
square a bread and butter plate doily,
and one square a tumbler dolly. Six
teen squares make the centerpiece.
To make a set of 12 each only takes
about a yard and a quarter of materi
al. Then get Inexpensive torchon or
some other heavy laco and sew around
1 tho edges of the doilies, making the
seams in the corner, where they wii/
not show.
CAMERON COUNTY PRESS, THURSDAY, APRIL 16, 1908.
(CX©D TO \N<M
VJ FOR THE-: n
t /OLEASTER. =f=
X# tOTABLE-* :
I *1 I SUITABLE DECORATIONS AND
REASONABLE DISH'ES »
CRISP freshness, daintiness and
brightness should be the dom
inating features of lflaster din
ners, luncheons or whatever
special feast marks the pausing
from the meager regime of Lent to the
gladsome time of rich
Special flowers, fruits and vegetables
at this season make it feasible to
mark the change in a pecuniary at
tractive manner.
Pussy willows will give the right
touch if one lives where they can be
got so late In the season. The blos
soms of fruit trees —apples, peaches,
pears and plums—make extremely
beautiful Easter decorations, and the
florists anticipate nature sufficiently to
provide them at this time. Equally,
beautiful are flowering shrubs, such as
lilac, syringa, japonica and the like,
which the accommodating florist also
has in stock now. The most season
able of flowers for decoration, and,
therefore, the most desirable, are the
bulbous plants like the narcissus, the
daffodil, the jonquil, the fresia, the
hyacinth, the iris, and, above all, the
lily. Beautiful as are pure white lilies,
many persons prefer not to use them
because they have become so hack
neyed. There is a turning to colored
lilies of various sizes this season;
flaming red ones, yellow ones and
some that are striped or spotted.
There is one thing to be remembered
about the use of lilies —one must nec
essarily have a somewhat formal ar
rangement if they are used alone. This
may be obviated to a certain extent by
using them in combination with some
other seasonable flower.
A Daffodil Luncheon.
A daffodil luncheon makes one feel
as if the room were flooded with sun
light, and the table can be made to
look like a veritable posy garden.
1 Natural flowers are used for the cen
ter and corner baskets, with a bit of
green asparagus or maidenhair fern.
The candle shades may be fashioned
in the form of the flower from yellow
crepe paper, and little boxes for bon
bons may be had to match. Yellow
may be the predominating color of the
food, too, If desired. The following
menu includes much yellow and is ap
propriate for an Easter dinner:
Caviare Canapes, Garnished with Lemon.
Carrot Soup.
Broiled Shad, with Bertiamel Yellow
Sauce.
Filets of Chicken.
Glazed Sweet Potatoes.
Boiled Asparagus.
Lettuce Salad with Cheese Kggs.
Orange Baskets Filled with Jelly.
Pineapple. Cheese. Crackers.
Coffee.
Some of the prettiest of the new
china is particularly nice for a yellow
luncheon or dinner, having a narrow
gold border as a foundation for a
slight outline border of another color.
Details of the Menu.
To make caviare canapes take some
small slices of bread that have been
previously toasted and thoroughly but
tered and spread them with caviare.
Serve with a bit of cress and with
lemon cut in fancifuUdeslgns.
Filets of Chicken.—Put the breasts
and first and second joints of two
young chickens in a saucepan and
cover with water in which is an onion.
When the chicken is soft take it from
the stock. Also remove the onion.
Thicken the stock with three table
spoonfuls of butter rubbed up with
flour, and as soon as this comes to a
boil add a half cup of cream and the
yolks of three eggs. Season and pour
over the chicken.
Cheese eggs are made by mixing a
cup of grated cheese with a scant
tablespoonful of flour, a little salt and
a dash of cayenne pepper with the
beaten whites of two eggs, then shap
ing them into the form of eggs, rolling
in fine crumbs and frying in butter.
Serve on a folded napkin.
Orange Baskets Filled with Jelly.—
With a sharp pointed knife cut out a
piece from each side of the top half
of an orange, so as to leave a strip for
the handle to the lower half, thus
forming a basket.. The pulp can easily
be removed. Make jelly from this and
All the baskets, or some other flavor
ing of jelly may be used if preferred.
A lily luncheon may be carried out
in green apd white. It may be better
to use a pot of white hyacinths or
something of that sort for a center
piece, as lilies are too tall to be man
aged well for the purpose. The lilies
may then be made to radiate from this
centerpiece. This is especially pretty
for a round table. There is table linen
5
SUGGESTION FOR CENTER PIECE FOR EASTER DINNER.
that comes with a handsome lily de
sign, and this may appropriately be
used for the lily luncheon if one uses
a cloth at all. Little baskets filled
with painted eggs make a pleasing
novelty. The menu given is suggestive
and can be abridged or added to or
modified according to taste and cir
cumstances:
Spring Soup.
Shad Roe with Whit# Sauce.
Cucumber Strips.
Broiled Birds on Toast.
Creamed Potatoes and Peas.
Mint Sorbet.
Mixed Salad.
Pistachio Ice Cream. White Cake.
Fruit. Coffee.
Small Birds. —Draw and wipe the
birds, taking the skin from the neck.
Truss the birds carefully, and dip
them first in melted butter, then in
crisp, fine bread crumbs and chopped
parsley. Place the birds on their backs
and bake them in a hot oven for about
five minutes. Serve on toast, plenti
fully garnished with parsley.
A Sorbet and a Salad.
Mint Sorbet. —Bruise mint leaves,
pour over them boiling water and let
stand ten or 15 minutes. Add a cup of
sugar and strain. When cool add the
juice of two lemons and freeze. Serve
In glasses with sprigs of fresh mint.
Mixed Salad. —Use lettuce as a
foundation, or romaine will do, and
add to it almost any kind of green
vegetables liked. French beans and
peas make a good addition. French
dressing is used.
Pistachio Ice Cream. —Mix four cups
of milk, one of cream, 1% of sugar and
a pinch of salt with a junket tablet
dissolved in cold water, and set away
for several hours. Add a quarter of
a cup of finely chopped pistachio nuts,
a little green coloring and freeze.
Snowdrop Oddity.
Some of the early hats are very
charming In their combination of
cheerfulness and warmth. For in
stance, there is a smart little three
cornered arrangement In cream-col
ored clotli, with a knot of brown vel
vet at one side, holding In place a
bunch of snowdrops, violets and a
high osprey of shaded hyacinth and
jonquil.
A large picture hat in Parma violet
silk is crowded all over the crown
with white and colored violets tied
with silver ribbon, and catching up at
one side a cluster of marabout in
shades of cream and mauve.
Then there Is a little round toque
With a crown of snowdrops put closely
together, with about a quarter-inch of
their stems wired erect beneath, so
that they have almost the appearance
of growing, and have none of the stiff
ness which spoils a good many flower
toques.
I ~ T
iNmffi
J **» "*•
Skirts are both longer and narrower
than last year.
In new silks oonventional patterns
are the most prevalent.
The pretty and practical jumper
dress still holds its own.
Charming are new linen collars with
broad or narrow stripes on white or
ecru.
Many early hats are of net with silk
bound rims.
A big bow is the most usual adorn
ment of the pioneer silk hat.
The spring almost surely will sec
the separate coat restored to its own.
New pattern robes carry a great
deal of colored embroidery on a whit#
ground.
Exit the Plaits.
The plaited skirt is rapidly disap
pearing. New designs are cut circular
and circularly gored. As for the trim
ming, the bias folds are disappearing
with the plaits and circular folds are
taking their place. This change is
most remarked in the walking cos
tume, which for so many seasons has
been modeled on the plaited style
with little or no variation other than
in the grouping of the plaits and the
width of the bias bands. Skirts are
longer, too, and walking length now
barely escapes the floor, while for a
costume inclined at all to formality
the skirt is long and trailing.
CROCHET DESIGN
This design may be worked out to
any size; four joined as shown form
a very pretty doily.
Commence with 12 chain and join
into a ring; 24 double crochets into
the ring just made, 7 chain, a double
crochet into third double crochet of
previous row, 7 chain, double crochet
in next third, and repeat (8 loops,) 9
double crochets under each of the
chain loops.
Pass over the first stitch of the first
loop, *, a double crochet in each of
the next three, 3 double crochets in
the fourth, one in each of the three
following; pass the remaining stitch
and the first one in the next loop, and
repeat from * all round.
A double crochet in each stitch of
the previous row, with three into the
middle one at the top of each point.
Same as last row. *, 7 chain, 1
treble in the top stitch of nearest
point, 7 chain, a double crochet in
middle of double crochets between the
points, repeat from *. To avoid break
ing off, work a single crochet into each
CARE IN CHOOSING COLORS.
In This Lies Half the Secret of Good
Dressing.
A woman may be a beauty or other
wise, according to her sense of color.
If she knows how to select the right
shade for her special type she has dis
covered half the secret of good dress
ing.
A colorless blond should avoid pur
ple, dark green or black, but can wear
safely white, navy blue, pale blue,
pink, gray, amethyst and, possibly,
green with a tinge of yellow in it.
The sallow woman should forswear
purples, browns, black or anything
with a touch of tan or yellow, but will
generally look well in dead white,
bright, strong blues and most shades
of red or pink.
The black-haired, red-cheeked wom
an should be judicious In her use of
her favorite reds and deep yellow, as
they have a tendency to give her an
ordinary, even, coarse look. She will
usually be at her best in white and
looks well in the champagne and light
tan tones.
The red-haired woman should
choose milk white, a dull black and
light and dark greens. Browns and
tans, contrary to the usual belief, im
pair the purity of her complexion.
Warm, light gray is usually becom
ing to the red-haired woman, especial
ly if she has brown eyes, while very
pale lemon Is exquisite with ruddy
looks.
Pew of our red-haired women recog
nize the possibilities of this last color,
but it is well understood by the fa
mous Parisian dressmakers, who use
gold and yellow to enhance the beauty
of many of their red-haired models.
New Gloves.
The dress gloves in long lengths are
very near the styles of those worn dur
ing the winter, but the stitching at
the back shows crows' feet and tho
gloves close at the wrist with two
large pearl buttons. The apricot and
champagne colors are very stylish
Just now and may be worn with a cos
tume of an entirely different color.
gloves are no longer fash
ionable and the yellow ones are seen
only with carriage costumes. Street
gloves are the shade of the street cos
tume.
Needing Iron.
Very often that tired feeling, lost
zest in life, a disinclination to move or
exert oneself, waking unrefreshed,
night sweats and utter weakness are
caused by nothing but too little iron
in the blood. Before you decido that
you are going into a decline or typhoid
has you in its first grip, ask your doc
tor if he does not think you need iron.
Even if you do not goto a doctor try
taking for a week or two some reliable
tonic that has iron or hypophosphites
in It.
Soft Illumination.
A desk light, one of the incandescent
electric bulbs in its green shield,
turned upward upan a white ceiling
makes tne softest of illuminations for
& room, pleasantly diffused, without
shadows, but strong enough, provided
there is -Mu reading to be done.
of the first 4 chain stitches of last
row, 5 chain, 1 treble on treble, *, 3
chain, another treble in same p'ace as
last, 5 chain, double crochet in middle
of next loop, 5 chain, double crochet in
middle of next loop 5 chain, 1 treble
on treble, and repeat from * all round.
Three double crochets under the
nearest loop, 5 chain, 3 more double
crochets under same loop, repeat from
* under each loop all round the star
and fasten off. The other stars are
worked in the same manner, and the
illustration will show where they are
joined together.
For the Center Connection. —Work
one chain cotton three times over
hook, draw through one of the center
picots—as shown —5 on hook, work off
2 at a time in the usual manner twice,
leave rest on hook, cotton twice over,
draw through same place as before,
again work off 2 at a time twice, cotr
ton twice over, draw through same
picot and work off all the stitches, 1
chain, and repeat into each of the
other stars, join the last stitch to the
first chain in center and fasten off.
KEEP THE CHIN WELL UP.
Physical Instructor Says This I* Sure
Cure for Round Shoulders.
One physical culture instructor lot •
Boston, who is having great success
in teaching round-shouldered girls to
stand and walk erect, says the whole
secret is in the way the head is held.
"Throw up your chin," Is her rale.
This throws the head upward and back
ward and the shoulders will naturally
settle backward and in their true posi
tion.
Those who stoop in walking gener
ally look downward. The proper way
is to look straight ahead upon the
same level with your eyes, or. If you
are inclined to stoop, until that ten
dency is overcome, look rather above
than below the level.
Mountaineers are said to be as
"straight as an arrow," and the reason
is because they are obliged to look
upward so much. It is simply impossi
ble to stoop In walking If you heed and
practice this rule. You will notice
that all round-shouldered person*
carry the chin near the breast and
pointed downwards.
UNDER-SLIP.
.
This under-slip is intended for wear
ing with pinafore-bodices, and sug
gests a way of making up odd lengths
of ribbon and lace insertion that may
have been bought at the sales. It con
sists of a deep yoke coming down un
der the arms, and puffed sleeves ter
minating just above elbow. The yoke
is joined into a band of batiste stitched
at each edge, which may be fixed to
the under-bodice by small safety pins.
The bands to which the puffed sleeves
are gathered are finished by frills of
lace. The quantity of insertion and
ribbon will be regulated by the width
of it.
White Hair.
Sometimes the hair alone is respon
sible for white hair having a yellowish
appearance. Only castile soap should
be used in shampooing; all trace of
soap must be carefully rinsed out and
a bit of pure indigo may tee put Into
the final riusing water.