' Bellefonte, Pa., March 17,1893 em AT SUNSET. It isn’t the thing you do, dear, It’s the thing you've left undone, That gives you a bit of heartache At the setting of the sun, The tender words forgotten The letter you aid not write, The flowers you might have sent. dear, Are your haunting ghosts to-night. The stone you might have lifted Out of & brother's way, The bit ef heartsome counsel You were hurried too much to say. The loving touch of the hand, dear, The gentle and winsome tone That you had no time or thought for, With troubles enough of your own. The little act of kindness, So easily out of mind 3 Those chances to be angels Which every mortal finds, ‘They come in night and silence, Each chill, reproachful wrath, When hope is faint and flagging And a blight has dropped on faith. For life is all too short, dear, And sorrow is all too great. To suffer our slow compassion That tarries until too late, And it's not the thing you do,<dear, It's the thing you leave undone, Which gives yew the bit of heartache At the setting of the sun. w Margaret E. Sangster, in Fraternal World. BS ———— MORLEY'S VALENTINE. The day was dark and gloomy. Ia the morning the rain had fallen ina tearful drizzle, freezing as it fell and causing the sidewalks to be avoided by all those who were obliged to wall: to their offices. The middle of the street showed a long black line of struggling pedestrians, who were do- ing their best to keep from falling and rendering the air heavier and bluer than it naturally was ‘by the very -un- complimentary languege regarding the weather which they used as they #lip- ped and slid along. Ia the lot were old and young, grave and gay, rich and poor, all exchanging the commen 1emarks abcu. the eoadi- tion of the sireeis:and the longeon- tinued spell of t ad weather. Coe,alone never -deigned to answer auy of the brief sentences ard betokeued by his demeanor the thorough coatempt he had for even the wery insiguificant at- tempts at friendliness that were made by bis fellow travelers. He wasa tall, stern-faeed man, the very piak of veat- ness in his attire,.and showing by his demeaner that he asked nothing of the world bet to be lett alone and permitted to carry on his own affairs in his own way. ‘@nce and-once only didihe give way for a brict seoment to an -exhibi- tion. of human feeling and that was when an ill-advised step nearly.precepi- tated him upea the flat of his back. The suppressed titter that shook the forms of his immediate companions caused him to ecow! fiercely and to re. straighten himself into even fiercer rigidity than before the temporary and involuntary lapse from his usual dig- nified carriage. Perhaps itwas the thought.of what an exhibition he bad made of himself and the injury done his eelf-pride by that very youthful titter that made him slam the door ol his private office with even greater vigor than usual, and caused the clerks to bend over their work with the very suspicious energy that attacks employes when the pro- prietor is around. J. Bb. Morley, of the old-established firm of Morley & Johnson, was not the easiest man in the world to work for, and when his tall figure 1n its upright severity loomed up among them there was not a persoa in the establishment, from the book keeper to the office boy, that did not fee! somewhat over-awed by his icy presence. This moraing he was decidedly out of temper, the failure to get a car, the icy pavements and the erowning piece of annoyance, ‘that gig- gle, had ushered him into hisoffice prepared to find fault with everything. His desk was a litter of unopened letters and the’ scrap basket showed signs of having not yet been emptied. “Where's Harris?’ he snapped out suddenly, coming to his door and start- ling the.elerk in the immediate vicin- ty into an incipient attack of the ague “that caused him to blot the neat col- umn of figures that he was carefully adding up. “I don’t know, sir,”” faltered the em- ploye, “he was hers a minute ago.” ~~ “Well, why is he not here now ? That boy thinks I employ him for the pleas. ure it gives me to pay his salary. Brooks” (this to the cashier), “remem ber, this Saturday Harris is discharged. I can’t haye dronesin my place. Work is what I pay for. not play. Remember, on Saturday Harris goes.” “Yes, eir,” said the cashier, with a furtive glance toward a boyish fizute just then coming in through the door with a face as radiant as a rosy-cheek-: ed apple and a emile that brought sun- shine even on such a dark day into the dingy office. ; “Here he is now, sir,”’ said Brooke. At this the boy looked up and seeing the stern face of bis employer some- thing of the brightoess vanished from the little face, and he tried to conceal by an uneasy, furtive movement the package which heretofore he had car- ried boldly in his hand. “Well, young man,” growled Mr. Morley, “you keep fine hours, I must say. Things have come to a pretty pass when an employer arrives before his office boy. Where have you been, and what have you been doing?” “Please, sir,” came the faltering answer, as the blue eyes grew dim and the cheeks flushed at the open sarcasm in the man’s tone. “I was here at 7 and helped Mrs. Dooley to clean up, and only ran out when the shops open- ed just for a minute. I haven't been gone long, have 1?" and he looked ap- pealing around for support from his co- workers, but in vain, none of them, not even Brooks, dared corroborate his statement, though they knew it to be true. “And pray what great purchase had eter Nellie. Was it a fur-lined overecat or a new | dress suit ?”’ and old Morley hugged himself in the enjoyment of his own wit and looked about for appreciation trom his teilow-clerks, but none was forth-coming, as every one was in full sympathy with the dejected little figure that had been but a short time ago buoyant with joy and gladness. § “I went to buy a valentine,” said the boy, with a momentary glauce at the cherished packet. “A valentine? nice trash for a boy earning $2 a week to spend his money on—a spooney combination of hearts and doves and indecent little Cupids. A woeful waste of money. Harris, you. are a spendthrift and a drooe, and you are not the sort of a boy we want in this place. On Saturday, Harris, you go. You understand me, on Satarday.” For a minute the boy’s face hlanch- ed, but only for that single instant,and then, straightening himselt up until he was in bearing at least the equal of the slim man facing him, his yong voice rang out in defiant defense of his ac- tion, ; “I am neither a spendthriit nor a drone, Mr. Morley. = You have, of | course, a right to discharge, me, but I mean to tell you that the two dollars | you pay me goes, every cent of it, to {'hely my mother and little crippled sis- I boughtithat valentine for | {'her out of an extra dime I earned car-’ tying a satchel to Broad Street Station. ‘She's sick and the doctor says she aint long for this world, and I keew it would please her, end so I weat out early to get it fearing the ten-cent ones might all be gone. If you discharge me it'll take away the best part of sending it to her, but I ain’t going to worry her about it'for this may be ber last Valentize Day.” Here the boyish voice breke and Morley,whe had stoed listening agaist his will by the very power of the bey’s eloquence, now gathered himself to- gether, as if ashamed of the momentary weakneges, and in his usual dry tone re- peated : “Saturday—you understand?” Some- how Morley was not himself that day. He argued that the weather affected him, and the boyish face of little Har- ris would come between him and the letters and papers, and if he had not been J. B. Morley, the sesior member of the firm of Morley & Johnsen, he would have thought that it wasremorge that bothered him. As it was, how- ever, he attributed his uneasy feelings to indigestion and tried to forget all about the scene of the morning, bat it would come back again and again. “A valentine,” he'thought, and with the mention of the name memory carried him back to the days of childhood when he, too, wrote little verses and pasted pink paper hearts on sheets of paper to be sent surreptitiously to little sweethearts, Then, later on, how he bad hoped toswin pretty Mabel Bunton and had on another Valeutine’s Day placed his tate in the envelope that carried the most expensive valentine the little town ot Wilton afforded. Poor Mabel! Many Valentine Days had passed since he laid her aad the wee white blessom, that lived but a day, underithe sod in the old ehurch- yard. Perhaps be would have been ditlerent it she had lived, but life had been hard and stern with him, and he must be cruel and unrelenting ‘in re- tarn. That night as he entered the tiny house that he call home, for despite his ricnes he had never attempted any grardear in kis surroundings the dark- nes: and the chill of the inner hall struck him as an icy hand and upon making a light his eyes fell wpon an envelope laid conspicuously upon-the little table that did service for a hat. rack. “A valentine,” he thought, then laughed to himself at the absurdity of such an idea, but something of the old-time expectation and hesitancy made hie fingers tremble as he tore it open and under the hall lamp de- voured its contents. Mg. MORLEY. Deer Sur: Seein as I axed you for more wages and yez refused, I can but plaze meslif and get anohter place Mary ANN Dwyer. castic humor. “My valentine, a mes sage of love from the one person in all the world on whom I wag dependent —my cook. Cupid must laugh to himself over such a billet deux. Well, I was an old fool to think that there was aayoue silly.enough to send me a valentine, I who this very morning laughed at a boy’s love for his sister, I who have pinched the poor and robbed the widow? Yes, robbed, I know it, I dare say it to wyself, for itis the truth. I, such a one as that, expected a valentine. Itis a joke worth mak- ing merry over,” and his hollow laugh awoke the echoes of the silent house .a8 he rummaged about among the pots and kettles and endeavored to get him- selfup an apology for a meal, for with all his means the thought of going to a restaurant never occurred to him. “Ha, ha!” he laughed, as he poked at the clinkers in the grate! “Morley’s valentine—Morley’s valentine. Well, valentine if I have to send it myself ; it'll be mine, and ‘though my, cook has left me and my friends all dead or wrapped up in their own eoncerns, I'l] have a bit of valentire fun and surprise myself by doing such a thing as Ma- bel would. have wished.” And as though afraid that he would repent of the unusual resolution the tall figure leaned over the oaken desk and wrote and sealed a message that would bring joy to three hearts ou the morrow When little Harris, cast down by the shadow of his discharge, appeared at the office in the early hours of the morning, Mrs. Dooley handed him an envelope, explaining as she did'so that | she had found it ‘poked under the | dure” whenshe came at o'clock to | . t clean up, “Shure, it must be a valea- | tine,” The boy’s eyes skimmed over | the lines and took in the meaning of the few crisp words: “You are re it's Morley’s “My valentine,” he laughed in sar-, why shouldn't there be a Morley’s | were made. son at a salary of $4 per week. Ii you. thank me you are dischared,” signed “J.B. Morley.” « And throw- ing his arms about the amazed scrub- woman, in a voice from which all sor- row had fled, he cried : “It is.it is; valentine ?'! — Edith Townsend Everett. Persia in A Bad Way. The Shah Now Under the Control of wu Priest- ty Oligarchy. The internal affairs of Persia seem to be proceeding steadily trom bad to worse. A correspondent of the London Times, who declares that he has the highest authority for his statements, writes: The priestly caste, which has always en- joyed greater authority in Persia than in Mussulman countries of the Sunm persuasion, although humbled by the present ruling dynasty, has exploited to the utmost the prevailing discontent for the furtherance of its own ends and the revival of ‘its own prestige. Mahdist doctrines—. e., the belief in the speedy advent to the twelfth Imam, who is to sweep the unbelievers off the face of the esrth—have always had a strong hold upon Shiite Mobammendans. During the last Mubarrem festivals the priest- hood announced in many mosques that a» mahdi and savior unto Persia had risen at Sammars,near Bagdad,in the person of Mollah Hajji Mizra Hassan Shirazi, and that he was predestined to rule over the land. This ominous aanouncement was rendered still more significant by the omission of the khutbeh, the prayer for the shah, which througout Islam is the most-ancient and sacred privilege of royalty. These incidects acquire all the more gravity that the shah feels himselfhelpless to cope with the im- pending crisis.' Treachery is rampant within the palace itself, and the shah third son, Prince Naib-es-Sultaneh, who is at the same time minister of war. is known to be in secret sympathy with the malcontent leaders. Itisno exag- geration to say that the shah rules in little more than name, and, as it were, on sufferance. The power, both in the capital and the provinces, almost throughout his empire, has passed out of his hands into those of the priestly oligarchy, who are the masters of the situation. The grand vizier himself— Emin-es-Sultan—has been compelled to enter into secret negotiations with the most influential of these holy agitators, Mollan Mirza Hassan Ashtiany, in the hope, it is alleged, of persuading him that the deposition cf the shah, would involve the occupation and possible di- vision of the last great shah kingdom by the very Europeans whose presence is so loathful to every right-thinking Mussulman.” Two Metropolitan Childres:. It was on Third avenue the other day that the face of a bey not more than “6 years old, with a cigarette thrust be- tween the little lips, attracted the atten- tion of a woman who was passing. The child’s puny, sickly appearance, for he looked as if nothing more than cigarettes was needed to break his slender hold on life, made the woman stop in the hope that here was an opportunity for a word in season. *Don’t you know,” she began, “that you'll never grow up to be a big, strong man if you smoke those bad cigarettes ? You’ll die, and you don’t want to do that, I know,” “Naw, I won’t die nuther,” said the young smoker without taking out his weed. ** What would your mother say:if she saw you ? was the next query. 0h, she lets me.” A chubby little chap of 4, round cheek- ed, a mere baby, stood at the elder one’s side during the talk. The woman turn- ed to him. “Your little brother does’t smoke cigarettes. You are setting him a bad example.” The younger bey smiled, but said nothing. “Naw, he don’t smoke cigarettes,” spoke up the other one; ‘‘he smokes a pipe.” And the woman fled, abashed before those two terrible infants.—New York Times. rr ————— Pride Goeth Before A Fali. They were walking along Michigan avenue and the wind was blowing a gale, The young women’s skirts were whirled about her in a way that sorely impeded progress. Her fur-trimmed «cape blew up about her ears and knock- ed ber hat rakishly on one side, and altogether it was fairly evident that the present style of feminine attire was not adapted for pedestrian exerc 8) on win- day days. ' Asshe bowed to the blast and clutched wildly at her hat he walk- ed steadily by her side, smiling in a superior fashion. Finally his apprecia- tion of his own attire became so strong ‘that he could not forbear to mention it. “I must say,” he remarked, “that women’s clothes seem to me highly ri- dieulous and inappropriate for such a day as this. Of course (conciliatingly) it’s the fault of your dressmakers and milliners, but you must admit it’s to- tally unsuitable.” The young woman raised her Lead to reply, when a sudden gust seized his Alpine hat and bore it swiftly and gracefully through the air for a few hundred feet. “Then it landed in a pud- dle left from the previous day’s rain and lightly skimmed the surface of the wat- er. The young man pursued and fin- ally captured it, and when he rejoined his companion she only remarked : ¢Of course it’s the fault of your. hat- ters, but it is totally unsuited to this "climate, isn’t it ?”’-ZChicago Times. Silk From Wood Pulp. The efforts of certain manufacturers | of St. Etienne, France, to work a pro- cess invented by Count Chardonner tor the manufacture of silk from wood pulp by a method similar to that used in con- verting wood into paper, 18 described in a recent. consular report, It appears that a few years ago similar attempts Large works were built at Besaucon, and preparations for making silk from ‘wood’ were. made on ‘a some- whut extravagant scale. . Soma remark- able specimens of silk made by this pro- cess wereshown, and now a company is being organized to go at the novel business in earnest.— New York Wit you'to make eo early in the morning? | tained in the service of Morley & John. ness. Gobelins Tapestry. A report of the United Siates consul general in Paris on French tapestries ! gives some interesting information in regard to the famous Gobelins factory. It was tounded in 1607 by Henri IV, in the scarlet dye works originally es- tablished in the fitteenth “century by Jehan Gobeli: «= Tu 1662 it was bought by Louis XIV., on the advice of Col- bert, and formed into the “Manutac- tures des Meubles de la Couronne,” with 800 workmen directed by the most celebrated artists. After the death ot Louis XIV the factory revert ed to its original work of making tapes: try only. The national factory of Go- belins is now divided into three sec- tions, dye shops, tapestry shops and carpec workshops. The first not on- ly produce every color, but twenty or | thirty shades of each, The execution of the tapestry is so glow that an artist cannot produce more than a fourth of a square yard in a year. In 1826 the manufacture of carpets was added. These are remarkable for their soft- ness and the evenness of their tissue. Some of them take five to ten vears to produce, and cost from 60,000 francs to £50,000 francs. Several tapestries of special importance exhibited at the Gobelins are mentioned by the consul general. A portrait of Louis XIV. by Rigaud is considered the chef d'aeuvre. A special account of the method of making the tapestry, by Mr. Debray, an expert, is also given in the report. This gentleman says that the value of ‘Gobelins is on the average 3,000 francs to 4,000 francs per square meter, while that of the Beauvais tapestry is as much as 7,000 francs. The character- istics of Gobelins are large historical scenes and reproductions from cele brated paintings Sales to private per- sons are only permitted by the special authority of the minister of fine arts. The Gobelins factory 18 joined the carpet factory of La Savounnerie (the building in which this work was first commenced was originally a soap factory), in which velvet carpets, re- producing kistorical aud mythological subjects, are manufactured in the same ways as velvets. The artists at Gobe- lins receive very high salaries. Hand tries of the ordinary dimensicns re- quire on the average three years. The manufacture of silk tapestries at Nimes has been decliningsince 1750, and there, as at Awbusson, it is in private hands. At Beauvais as well as Gobelins the maufacture is controlled by the state. Coton warps, called boyauz, are em- ployed, the weft is of twofold wool, and is a species of Australian mohair wool, denominated laine brode, its charact- eriztic being that it is open and firm. The welts are dyed by expert chem- ists and dyers, by the old method of looms only are employed, and tapes- | The American Oxford. Plans For the Greal Methodist Uuiversity at Washingten. The great Methodist university at Washington cigy is a fixed fact. True, the structures are yet to be bul, aod even the cornerstone of Lincoln mem. orial hall will not be laid till next Oc- tober, but the ground 18 secured, (he planus have been enthusiastically ap proved by the whole church, aud tiere- tore the university is a fixed tact. The site consists ot 92 acres of ground beautiful for situation and the delight of all who have seenit, in the famed northwest section, bisected by Massa- chusetts avenue extended, and is now worth about $750,000. lt was present ed to the trustees by the citizens of Washington, and already one may see there indications of the rising city which is to be from thestart consecra:- ed to piety andsound learning. Within afew years the denomination which had its origin at ancient Oxford will have an American Oxford ot its own. Lincoln memorial hail, as alo esaid, is to be the first structure erected, and this is to be paid for by $1 contributions from those who desire to bounor the memory of Abraham Lincoln. At the main entrance tothe tower 13 granite columns will represent the orig- inal states. At the corners are columns representing the new stafes admitted down to the time of Liucoln’s inaugra- tion. Above in the turret are the pro- phecies of the states yet to be and the territories. In the center of thespace elevated above this canopy is the shield of the United States, the bars ot gothic tracery and the field set with 13 trans- lucent and glittering stars of Rocky mountains quartz crystal. Surround- ing the whole is a roof of metal in the form of tents, as near as possible, as a suggestion of the tented field. This tower is to be upon the Lighest plateau in the District of Columbia,and from its top the view will extend over the whole territory between the Blue Ridge and the Atlantic ocean. Toward the right rises the Sugar Loaf moun. ‘tain, and to the left are the windings of the Potomae, beyond which are the ‘historic battlefields. Massachusetts aver.ue, running through the very cen: ter of the city, and upon which stands many palatial residences, opens up di rect communication with the university. Every prominent building of the c'ty will be visible from this elevation, and towering far above them all is the beau- tiful vaulied dome of the capitol and the shapely shaft of the monument. And on this commanding platean the Methodists expect to rear the Ameri- can Oxford. Mad Michigan Rivers. wood dyes, such as indigo, cochineal and curcuma. Port wool and part silk tapestries are also manufactured, and a limited number all silk. Ingersoll’s Poem of Life. Born of love and hope, of ecstacy and pain, of agony and fear, of tears and joy —dowered with the wealth of two nnit- ed hearts——held in happy arms, with lips upon lite’s drifted tont, blue veined and fair, where perlect-peuce finds per- fect form——rocked by willing feet and wooed to shad wy shores of sleep by siren mother singing soft and low—iook- ing with wonder’s wider and startled eyes at common things of lite and day — taught ty want and wish and con- tact with the things that touch the dimpled flesh of baves—lured by light and flame and charmed by coloer’s won- drous rokes, learning the use of hands and feet, and the love of mimicry be- guiled to speech-releasing prisoned thought from crabbed and curious marks on soiled and tattered leaves-- puzzling the brain with crooked num- bers anc the changing, tangled worth —and through y ars of alternating day and tizht uni 1 the captive grows famil- 1ar with the cbaws and walls ana hwi- tations of a lite. And time runs on in sun and shace, until the one of all the world is wooed and won, and all the lore and love is taught and learned again. Again a home is built, with the fair, chamber wherein faint dreams, hke cool and shadowy vales, divide the biliowed hours of love. Again the miracle of birth— the pain and joy, the kiss of wel- come and the cradle song, drowning the noisy prattle of a babe. And then the sense of obligation and of wrong—pity for those who toil and and weep-—tears for the imprisoned and despised —love for the generous dead, and in the heart tne ' rapture of a high resolve And then ambition, with its lust of pelf and place and power, longing to put upon its breast distinction’s worth- less badge. Then keener thoughts of men, and eyes that see behind the smil- ing mock of craft—fl.t ered no mote by the obdequious cringe of gain and greed —knowing the uselessness of hoarded gold and honor bought from those who charge the usury of self respect—o! pow- er that only bends a coward’s knees and forces from the lips of fear the lies of praise. Knowing at last the unstudied gesture of esteem, the reverent eyes made rich with honest thoughts, and holding high above all other things— high as hope’s great throbbing star about the darkness of the dead—the love of wife and child and friend. Then locks of gray and growing love of other days and half remembered things—then holding withered hands of those who first held hie, while over dim and loving eyes death softly pressed down the lids of rest. And so, locking in marriage vows his children’s hands, and crossing others on the breasts of peace, with daugbter’s babes upon’ his knees, the white hair mingling with the gold, he jcurneys on Derrorr, Mich.,, March 13.—The warm weather of the past few days has caused the heavy maszes of ice and snow in the Grand, Shiawasse, Raisin, Clin- | ton and many other of thesmaller rivers [ throughout the state to move. The ear- ly part of this week innumerable gorges formed in these rivers and have caused the water to back up, flooding the cities and towns lying on their banks. Sever- al bridges have been washed away, hous- es, stores, mills and other buildings flood- ed and other damage done, the amount of which is not yet known. As far as known no lives were lost. This ice is gorged above Ionia, and a big force of men is at work blasting it out. The lower part of the Michigan Clothing company’s buildings is flooded, and their loss will Le heavy. At Lyons the water rose several feet an hour. Early this morning. The fire bells were rung to alarm the residents of that town of the fact. All of the lower town is flooded several feev deep. Acres of ice poured over the dam and caused a tre- mendous backwater, which resulted in much damage to factories, Grand river is over a mile wide there. At Jackson the basements of ten stories are flooded. Mt. Clemens is also a sufferer. The east of the city is flooded. Cremating Garbage. How the Work is Done in New England Cities. The consumption of garbage by cre- mation has been begun in quite a num- ber of places in this country, and the one which is'an object lesson to cities is the double-firs sy-tem now in use in Lowell and in other parts of the country. This crematory is a brick structure, 40 feet long, 10 feet wide and 12 feet bigh, with a stack 75 feet in height. The top cf the furnace is reached by a platform and the garbage is col- lected in carts and dumped down the slopes. into the feed holes in the top of the furnace. After thefurnace has been charged, two fires are lighted. The flames pass from the first fire to the gar- bage piled on the grates, and the gases and smoke attending the combustion then pass to the second fire, where they are consumed. All the products of the burning of the garbage must pass tkrough one of these fires. We have not roum for detailing how this system is man aged, but the results are such that works successfully wherever it has been tried. and its adoption in many of our large cities 13, apparently, only a question of time. ‘ | reir ———————— Dynamite For sigoor Brin. Two Bombs Found in the House of an Italian Minister. Royme, March 7.—Two dynamite bombs were discovered to-day in the house of Signor Brin, Minister of For- eign Affairs. Another bomb was found in front of a local prison. Free Text Books, A bill: was introduced in both from day to day to the horizen where the dusk is waiting for that night—sit- | ting by the holy hearth of home, as the | last embers change from red to gray, he : falls asleep within the “arms of one he worshipped and adored, feeling upon his | pallid lips love's last and holiest kiss. | of | —— Within a six-mile radius Charing Cross, London, there are 27 miles of railway and 225 etations, and | within a twe¢lve-mile radius over 400 miles of line and 801 stations. branches of the legislature Wednesday morning oppropriating $1,000,000 for the purchase of text books for the com- mon schools of the State. First Meeting of the Cabinet. WasnineroN, March 7.—<The first meeting: of Mr. Cleveland's Cabinet "was held this afternoon a% the un- usual hour of 3 o'clock, and it lasted something more than two hours. All the members were present. ———————————————————————— EE ——— ee A i The World of Women. A sword hilt is used as a brooch. The guard is of small gold wire, with a stone or pearl in the centre of each. Several row of black satin ribhon of graduated width make a neat decora- ton for dark green or navy blue woolen gowns. Now that every one has velvet sleeves the new craze is for satin sléeves, but as they are madeinto two huge putts, it takes an artist to hang them gracefully. The old fashioned rolled hem, held in place by blind stitches, is used for the lower edge of the fashionable flounce, while the upper edge is a standing rufile of the material doubled. Gorgeous little house jackets, closely coyping those worn by the Turkish la- dies, show rich embroideries of untarn- ishable gold thread upon a blue, black or searlet velvet background. A striking innovation in some of the new importations is. overskirts. These at present are generally split up in front or at the sides to show the bell skirt beneath, They hang perfectly straight. A fine quality of ladies’ cloth, which is now calied babit cloth, is an extreme- ly popular material. It comes in all the exquisite new shades and is used not only for tailor-made costumes, but for those that are much more elaborate. Myra Clark Gaines left an estate worth $925,000 when she died, in 1887. The lawyers have absorbed $800,000 of itin fighting over her will and hope to be ahie to get away with the remainder in the new trial which they have just commenced. Hop sacking the latest and most fash- ionable dress goods, reminds one of canvass, being peculiarly suggestive of a hammock. However, as several swell tailors bave built gowns of it for yacht- ing and traveling purposes, it will prob- ably become quite as fashionable on this side as it is in England. Only a woman with plenty of money can afford to buy cheap materials, wear light colors or select ultra styles. Only a beautiful woman with a great deal of color and undeniable youth can afford to wear lavender tints. Only a brilliant woman can afford to use sarcasm and only a shrew who cares nothing for: popularity can afford to be impolite. Mrs, Sarah C. Sears, whose ““Romola” took the Evans prize at the Water Col- or Exhibition, is a Boston woman whose husband, Montgomery Sears, enjoys the reputation of being the richest man in that city. Mrs, Sears, in addition to being rich and an artist, is a beauty,- a tall, dark-eyed, dark-haired woman. The model for her Romola was her most intimate friend, Mrs. Bunker. The most fashionable collar is the one that is quite straight and is as high as it can comfortable be worn. To make a last winter’s collar higher add a small band of chenille or moss trimming such as 1s often used for trimming the bottom of skirts. O, again, bebe ribbon sewed in many loops to a ribbon foundation and forming a thick ruche is nov only a neat und stylish trimming for the neck, but for the whole bodice. Don’t believe you ean get rid of wrin- kles bv filling in the crevices with pow- der. Instead giveyour face a Russian bath every night; that is, bathe it with water so hot that you wonder how you can stand it, and then a minute after with cold water that will make it glow with warmth ; dry it with a soft towel and go to bed, and you ought to sleep like u baby, while your skin is growing firmer and free from wrinkles and you are resting. = Nearly all the women wear their hair low in the neck, many having it brought quite down over the ears, part- ed in front and with loose, long curly locks straying ‘rom the sides. If this style were not Javored, then the very pronounced curl in the middle of the forehead, and shorter locks on the side, and the Byzantine waves and coils at the back were worn. High tortoise-shell combs and daggers appeared to be the most popular ornaments. A gray gown worn by a tall stately girl with brown eyes was very simply made. The material was Lansdowne, and the full skirt was trimmed with fine narrow rufiles set & little apart so that the lower part was well covered. The round bodice was made a little full and had immense leg o’ mutton sleeves, a high stock and wide belt, each finished by a 1osette at the back. Over the shoulders a wide ruffle of creamy lace gave a bertha effect. Justin front the girl bad’ pinned a large American Beauty rose which was just the touch of color the gown needed to make it pertect. Spring millivery is peculiarly gay, nearly every hat or bonnet being in col- or rather than the tans or black as we have been accustomed to.’ Itis nothing unusual to see a bright green or purple straw trimmed with pink roses or yel- low buttercups. The shapes also are very uncommon, either verging on the round poke or old-time scoop. A pat- tern hat in green and black, the crown being formed of interwoven rubber stems and the rim of fine black chip. This extended well over the forehead and had a rosette of green set on the fluffy bang. At the back a bunch of black tips set up over the low crown and a pert little bow of black satin rib- bon defined the front. The bony maiden will rejoice when the springtime comes, for the new styles are just her style exactly. There: are, among other things, walking-jackets with high, flaring collar, stift shoulder- capes looped up with rosettes, leg o’ mutton sleeves and a half girdle fasten- ed in front with a third rosette. The dresses are all short, all wide, all trimmed and all silk rufiles inside, the waists are all short, with girdles, ham! shaped sleeves and zouave jacket pieces of flar- ing bretelles of the material, lined and trimmed to make them still more asser- tive. Even the silk shirt waists to wear with shop-made jackets and skirts are bunched up and puffed up with extra- vagant ruffles, coilar capes and gather- ed sleeves 86 inches wide at the top. Verily the attenuated damsel will be very deceptive when she is dressed in her April suit.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers