The Dallas Post Dallas, PA Wednesday, September 23, 1992 11 The Dallas Post Fall Bridal Showcase Tuxedos and ties for wedding swells By Mike Dale Copley News Service Grooms choosing a smashing ensemble for their wedding day need not be traumatized by over- whelming choices. The decision falls into place quite handily when you consider: Is the wedding in a summer, winter or fall? Whit time of day will the ceremo- ny be held? Will you include a wedding party? How big? What kind of wedding will it be — tradi- tional, eccentric or simple? FORMAL WEDDINGS For very formal daytime wed- dings, grooms could wear a long jacket, cutaway-style, in black or gray. Trousers could boast a clas- sic side stripe. A white shirt should have wing collars and French cuffs, with studs, a vest, cummerbund, an ascot or four-in- or@ and tie, black dress shoes and matching hat/gloves and over- coat. Grooms with formal evening weddings (ceremony after 6 p.m.) could wear black trousers and coat with a white vest, cummer- bund and tie. Donning a black top hat and white gloves tied together by a black or gray overcoat would add joie de vivre. SEMIFORMAL WEDDINGS 8 becomes a process of elim- inion . from formal weddings. Matching or contrasting jackets, trousers, shirts, cummerbunds, i and ties are standard semi- formal wedding fare. However, delete haute couture accessories such as hats, gloves, overcoats, ascots, etc. INFORMAL WEDDINGS Two styles of dress distinguish this category: the business suit for the conservative set and the “any- thing goes” look for eccentrics. Should you opt for a simple ding in your back yard — or aps a civil ceremony at the county courthouse — a business suit will suffice for most grooms. Choose black, gray, navy, dark blue or white, with coordinating tie. Eccentric bashes are limited only by the imagination. A sky- diver tying the knot could wear a tux under his jumping regalia; surfers could wear sandals and shorts, with a white shirt and long, cutaway jacket. FASHION SENSE Fortunately, formal wear is fol- lowing the fashion world these days. The '90s have ushered in a more relaxed look. Shoulders are s@ler, fabrics are sensual to the touch, lines are easy on the eye, the fit is less than stuffy than trad- itional English wear, and the look is elegant. Consider the shawl tuxedo. Pop- ular among members of “high so- ciety” in the 1920s and ’30s, it’s ever-so-slightly casual look is made for today’s softer styles: jackets with rounded shoulders; fabric draped around the chest, and trousers with a fuller cut. Some unusual entries in the for- mal wear race? The Ze Tux! by Pierre Cardin has a pseudo V-line from shoulder to pocket. The Grief Companies offer a houndstooth dinner jacket. Henry Grethel boasts a double-breasted tail with matching waistcoat. Raffinati sports a black-and-white bird’s- eye fabric. TUXEDO HUNTING Making the correct choice in formal wear takes persistence, pa- tience and the help of a profes- sional. Learn the difference be- tween single-breasted vs. double- breasted jackets. Collars come in various flavors: shawl, peaked and nctched. Bow ties, ascots and four-in-hand neckwear purvey certain feels. Cuff links, studs, pocket squares, cummerbunds and suspenders add the spice to your ensemble. Also take into consideration the fathers of the bride and groom. Today’s weddings see them matching formal attire with groom and attendants. When hunt- ing for a forma! wear shop, make sure it offers national labels. Visit several shops and try on different styles. Ask plenty of questions. Gather information. Do initial scouting three to six months before the wedding day. In terms of fit, jackets should feel comfortable at the neck and shoul- ders; stand and sit with the jacket buttoned. Shirts should cuff up to 1 inch below the jacket line. Vest should line up with front of the coat. Trousers should fasten comforta- bly. Shoes should match or com- plement the rest of the ensemble. When picking up the tux — two to three days in advance of the wed- ding — make sure there are no stains, cigarette burns, fabric snags, and the like. Also count the buttons on the jacket. ACCESSORIZING Cummerbunds, bow ties and vests can add zest and zing to oth- erwise traditional formal wear. Why? Because they reflect more temporal (or fads, if you prefer) styles of dress. Embroidery and tapestry, for example, adds con- trast and punch to basic black tux- Gorgeous grooms The wedding day is a time for grooms to shine in elegant formal wear such as this single- breasted shawl tuxedo. Your engagement and wedding announcements are welcome at The Post. edos and white formal shirts. Suggestions: The Fireworks se- ries cummerbunds boast purple- silver and red-silver lame stripes. And Raffinati offers colorful and bold tie-and-cummerbund combi- nations in fun polka dot prints or paisley motifs. FORMAL DO-DON'TS Brides may be under a higher powered microscope on the wed- ding day, but that doesn’t mean Uncle Miltie and Aunt Polly aren't examining their nephew-the- groom. Looking your best when in a tuxedo goes to a higher plateau when adhering to formal wear “rules.” Cummerbunds should be worn with pleats face up. The wing collar is worn behind the bow tie rather than in front. Pleated white shirts are the classic choice; ruffled or pastel shirts look dated. Black patent pumps or oxfords are the only shoes appropriate for a formal af- fair. Black silk hosiery should be worn, except with a white tuxedo. Boutonnieres should be placed on the left lapel; a silk pocket square makes a smart alternative. When it comes to jewelry, less is more. THE GROOM'S GROOM Want to look your best for the: first day of the rest of your life? Get a haircut a few days to one week before the wedding. Hair should look controlled but not shiny. Leave shaving for the last possi- ble minute. Take it slow and steady when shaving to avoid nicks. Splurge on a manicure. Hands will be noticed in photographs. Pictorial Wedding Stories Skilled Professional Photographers * Care of details in clothing and location * Flattering poses done quickly so vou can enjoy your special day. * Candid photography of the ceremony done with the utmost discretion. Large size film for vivid celor. Photographs » All Kodak products. * Printed in our lab with the latest in computerized processing equipment. Albums e Librarv or perma bound. ¢ Only the finest 138 S. 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