® By MARY COMBS Smithsonian News Service “<The first fan was probably a leaf, clasped by a human seeking relief on a pre-historic summer day. Today, on the rare occasions when modern air-conditioning fails us, we make do with theater programs, hats, newspapers - and convenient vegetation. The sight of a woman with a fan in her hand is rare indeed. But it was not always so. “Fans are fascinating,’”’ says Lenore Gershuny, curator of ‘Fan- fare,” an exhibition at the Smith- sonian’s Renwick Gallery in Wash- ington, D.C. “They are really very practical devices, yet they have such charm and beauty - and such a romantic history.” ““The oldest type of fan is the rigid “handscreen” - probably evolved from that prehistoric leaf - made of painted wood or fabric or feathers mounted in a handle. Such fans ‘have been employed through the ¢enturies not only to cool their users in hot weather, but also to shield ladies’ faces - and wax-based make- tip - from the fire. The folding fan, with its radiating sticks bearing a ‘‘leaf”’ or ‘mount’ of paper, skin or fabric, came from Europe, also from the East, four centuries later. ‘‘Brise’’ folding fans carry no mount: The sticks, bound together by a ribbon, form the whole fan. The cockade fan, which dates back to medieval times, is some- thing of a hybrid. It is made of broad overlapping sticks or of pleated paper which can be spread into a full circle; when open, it becomes a round handscreen. “When Pocahontas posed for her portrait in 1616, dressed as the fashionable Virginia planter’s wife she was, she held a feather fan of the handscreen type. But in 1675, one John Hall wrote from London to his mother in Ipswich, Conn., in reply to her request for a feathered fan, “none but very grave persons (and of them very few) use it.”’ The folding fan had supplanted the cock- ade and handscreen as the fan of choice. It was to be an indispensa- ble item in the wardrobes of 12 generations of well-dressed women. The painted fans from Italy prized in the late 17th and early 18th centuries were not only practical and decorative. ‘If conversation lagged, you could always talk about the image on the fan,” Gershuny says. Fan painters took their themes from paintings and frescoes, and such classical topics as the Rape of the Sabines and Diana and Endymion provided plenty of food for talk. “By the mid-18th century, a French fan was the thing to have - partly because so many fine Italian craftsmen emigrated to France,” Gershuny says. Decoration becomae light, with an emphasis on pastoral scenes, aristocrats at play or romantic subjects. Europeans also became fasci- nated with the Orient, although “the Orient they painted was a fantasy,” she adds. During the vogue for ‘“chinoiserie”’ and on through the 19th century, Oriental workmen accommodated the fantasy by cre- ating for export millions of fans and fan sticks - many of them exquis- itely beautiful, but bearing no resemblance at all to the fans Church fans displayed suitable themes from the Bible. “One of the Smithsonian’s church fans from the period displays the edifying scene of »braham sacrificing Isaac - but it also has peep holes in it so the user could look at her neighbors, yet maintain a pious postrue,” Ger- = were common: Many travelers returned from the Grand Tour with fans depicting sights such as the “1789 eruption of Vesuvius. of both the painted fan - a perfect marriage of intricately carved and gilded sticks with delicately colored, embroidered and sequined leaf - and of the art of its manipulation. ‘‘What daring bard shall e’er attempt to tell, the powers that in this little engine dwell?” asked one poet. “What verse can e’er explain its various partrs, its num’rous uses, motions, charms and arts? Its shake triumphant, its virtuous clap, its angry flutter, and its wanton tap.” Satirist Joseph Addison pro- nounced in 1711: “Women are armed with fans as men with swords, and sometimes do more execution with them.” (The quote remained so timely that Benjamin Disraeli borrowed it more than a century later.) ‘There is scarce any emotion in the mind which does not produce a suitable agitation in the fan,” Addison asserted, and pro- posed an academy to teach ‘‘the exercise of...that modish little machine.” Although Addison’s academy was fictitious, no doubt ladies of his day- -and their Victorian great-great- granddaughters after them - prac- ticed in front of their mirrors. In the 18th century, courting cou- ples had little if any privacy. A “language of the fan” made it possible for a lady to deliver a variety of specific messages at a distance. For example, letting the fan rest on her right cheek signified “Yes,” on the left cheek, “No.” Twirling it in the right hand meant “I love another,” while putting the handle to the lips said “Kiss me.” There wasn’t much secrecy, since the signals were common knowl- edge. But an enterprising couple could certainly have devised a pri- vate code. If the lovers could sit together, a fan with questions and answers - chiefly romantic - inscribed on the sticks or mount made it possible to carry on a silent conversation simply by pointing to the appropri- ate phrases: “Do you care?” “Per- haps.” Good quality printed fans became available in the mid-11th century. These were especially suited to commemorative or ephemeral sub- jects. Whatever was news, from ballooning to the bloody events of the French Revolution, appeared on fans. They bore political cartoons, plans showing who sat in what box at the theater, advertisements, horoscopes and instructions for complicated dances like the quad- rille, where a misstep meant disas- ter. Puzzle fans were also popular. Opened in the “wrong” direction, these revealed hidden images - sometimes salacious, sometimes politically dangerous. After the French Revolution, a Royalist lady might carry a fan which displayed the motto “Vive le Roi” - but only when open to a specific point - or a plain paper fan which, when held to the light, revealed in the watermark portraits of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. The Revolution meant the demise of the luxurious, painted fan, but France continued to dictate the fashions. In the very early 19th century, spangled textile and gauze fans had all the glitter - and none of the politically dangerous connota- tions - of jewels. Fans also dwindled in size as well as importance with the advent of the narrow, high- waisted neo-classical fashions. “Some were so small - two to four inches long--that they were called ‘imperceptibles,” »’ Gershuny says. Other fans were cunningly designed to fold up or telescope; cockade fans could be slipped into a small handbag or carried unobtrusively. Ivory brise fans, carved or plain, were much in vogue - tiny ball fans with uncarved sticks and a pencil attached served as dance programs. When fans again became impor- tant to fashion in the 1840s, they returned to the Victorians’ delight in variety, profusion and eclectic ornament. Sticks thickened, partly because of heavier design values, partly to support the weight of elaborate tex- tiles and embroidery. Fans also grew in size. By the 1880s, they were often 16 inches long. That meant a spread of nearly a yard when opened. Needless to say, rapid manipulation of such creations was ¢ difficult if not impossible. The artistry of 18th-century coquettes was not revived, although the lan- guage of the fan was published by ers’ enjoyment. Any fabric or material that could be used in a fan was, from exquisite lace to rubber. Painted fans came back in vogue, and period fans were copied and imitated - some with obvious flaws, some so well that, like one fan in the Smithsonian collection, they have been mistaken for authentic 18th-century work. Godey’s Lady’s Book provided readers with instructions for creat- ing handscreens, cockade and fold- ing fans. (Those who recycled old sticks left a legacy of confusion to collectors.) One article began: “Firescreens composed of the wings pretty and useful...The wings must be cut off when the bird is fresh killed.” The Victorian passion for feath- bird populations, was not confined to women’s hats. Fan makers stole plumage from the exotic peacock and the humble turkey. One folding American eagle; a screen fan dis- plays a hummingbird mounted in its center. The beautiful ostrich feather fans which came into fashion in the span. The first World War dealt a lethal blow to the way of life that held a place for the fan as a work of art, an ornament and a feminine prop. designed for practical cooling, for advertising the virtues of such spon- sors as Moxie and Pan American tume or the exotic dances of Sally Rand. The flapper had plenty to occupy her hands - her cigarette holder, cocktail glass and handbag - and the working girl's fingers were firmly planted on her typewriter. The change in women’s lifestyles proved to be permanent. But one can still be intrigued by the fan's beauty and the days when women were mistresses of that ‘modish little machine.” LEGAL NOTICE The Dallas Borough Zoning Board will meet on Wednesday August 29, 1984, at 7:00 p.m at the Dallas Borough Building; 25 Main St., Dallas, for the purpose of discussing a request for a variance for a sign for outdoor advertising from Park Outdoor Advertising 31-2-P Buscher Trumpet good cond. $100; coats and prom gowns, various colors andsizes, coats sizes 6-9, gowns sizes 1-7, $10-$40. 675-3086. 18-tfn-P 9x15 Good Year Tracker Tires mounted on white spoke wheels 5x15. 639-5492. 17-tfn-P Sofa & 2 Livingroom Chairs good cond. Call after 5 p.m,. 675-3380. 3 Pc. Livingroom Suite good cond. Ideal for home, cottage or hunting cabin $100. Call 675-0345. 28-tfn-P 2 Twin Beds White $70; 19" RCA portable color TV, needs some repair $75; dark wood coffee table $20; livingroom chair $10. 288-1506. 28-tfn-P pr ads 3 FOR SALE FOR SALE Remington China Base Lamp white and gold rim, 24’" tall, 100 percent perfect, cost $125 will sell for $35; love sat, gold and green print bvelvet, $60; dishes, vases and glassware. 283-1732. Genuine Mahagony Grandfathers Clock with chimes, perfect cond. Call 655-1376 after 5 p.m. 28-tfn-P Blackberries Bring baskets and pick 50c ' qt.; red raspberry & blackberry plants 50c ea.; blue spruce trees, 50c ea.; white dogwood, chestnut trees $2 ea. 675-3057. 29-tfn-P 20” Roadmaster Convertible Bicycle $30; 24’ Huffy bicycle $20. 639-1990. 29-tin-P 3 Wooden Chairs, 3 folding chairs, Kero-Sun heater, Coalman stove, GE air conditioner, antique maple dresser, manual typewriter 696- 2068. 29-tfn-P 4 Pc. Brushed Dar, Brown Velvet Sectional $150; new cane-backed tufted velvet bench $100; 18" chiming wall clock, $55; stereo console w- casette 8 track player and recorder $115; diningroom table and 4 charis, $50; 4 Hummel bells $325; 4 Hummel plates $325. 675-4471. 28-tfn-P Tappan Electric Range $125; General Electric 2 Speed Washer with mini wash $125. Call 675- 4244 or 675-1402. 23- tfn-P Ice Machine side by side Admiral refrigerator; King size bed with frame; tables and wooden restaurant benches, electric deep fryer. Call 639-1929. 18- tfn-P Two New White Wedding Gowns size 10-12. Never worn, $100 ea. 824-8701 or 675-4383. 18-tin-P FOR SALE RCA 25” Colored TV Console with AM-FM radio, record player, good cond. Best offer; set of automobile chains for 14’ wheel, $5. 287- 7838. 28-tfn-P Vanity with sink, top and faucets. 696-3017. 28-tfn-P 2 Studded Snow Tires H78-15, $50 set; gas Kenmore dryer, 22,000 BTU-HR Input $75; homemade table for sewing machine, 2 drop leafs and drawser $30. 822-9941. 28-tfn-P Maternity Clothes summer and winter, size 11-12; $2.50 to $7.00; baby clothes, infant to toddler $1.00 to $10. Some new items, others all good cond. 298- 2347. 30-tfn-P Refrigerator $30; car radio and speaker, $10; back-to-school clothes, $1. ea. 12 yr. old and up; white metal base cabinet $20. 639-2415. 31-tfn-P EDITOR FOR SALE Bathroom Sink & Vanity and shower curtain (solid) with brass looking trim. 287-4462. 21-tfn-P 12 Tonka Toys Good cond. 288-0932. 31-tfn- P 8 HP Crusader Briggs- Stratton Engine ride on lawn mower, 30" cut. 824-7330. 31-tfn-P Full Size Mattress & Box Spring. Exc. cond. call evenings 675-1675. 31-tfn-P 1 Metal Bed free mattress $35; large modern dresser, 12 drawers, $40; 3 old fashined dressers, $35, $40; dressing table with mirror $15; 1 rockergreen upholstered $15. Call 256-3029 after 9, daytime Sat. & Sun. 31-tfn-P Scandia Woodburner Ben Franklin type $300; 2 aluminum storm doors with glass louvres $60 for both; 1 aluminum screen door, $20. 675- 2163. 31-tfn-P Sylvania Stereo 2 speakers, record player portable type, perfect cond. $15; ple lamp ceiling to floor, 4 lights, $5.; hanging lamp white and gold, $8.; Irwin Electric Heater, $10; dishes, vases, glasses, moving, must sell. 283- 1732. 16-tfn-P Schwinn Bicycle--dirt bike type, suit age 9-12. Good cond. $40. 675- 3317. 16-tfn-P Woodstove Brand new, never hooked up. originally $460 selling for $300. 675-2163. 16- tfn-P Girl’s Winter Coat with hood, size14; boy's winter coat with hood size 12. Girl's bedspread, full size w- matching pinch pleat curtains, 72''x63"’ green. 696-1716. 18-tin- P FOR SALE Dog Coop For large dog, $15. 829-3869. 21- tfn-P 2 Bathroom Commodes exc. cond. $40 ea. 675-3342. 21- tfn-P New & Used Golf Clubs. 693-1940. 22- tfn-P Electrolux Vacuum Cleaner with all attachments, Blessed Virgin Statue. 693-3322. 31-tfn-P Bausch & Lomb Soflens Sterilizer and travel case, used 4 months, $18. Call 288- 4842 before 2 p.m. 22- tfn-P Brown Naugahyde Sofa, Loveseat & Chair. Exc. cond. $600. 675-2325. 22-tfn-P 7 Pc. Pine & Plaid Living Room Suite very good cond. $350. 675-0094 after 4 p.m. 18-tfn-P Girls Clothing New and like new. Sizes 2- 14, lovely selection, reasonable. Call anytime, 288-2049 or 696-3969. 19-tfn-P 6-30’’ Sections of 6” Domestic Double Insulated Stainless Steel Chimney and 1 clean out *‘t"" $150; 1 red free standing fireplace $100; various pieces of round pipe duct. Make offer; Sears Kenmore '79 portable dishwasher, white with maple butcher block top. 675-4276. 23-tfn-P New Modern Platform Queen Size Bed, dresser, night table; Mediterranean bedroom suit; living room suite; cedar chest. 287-4869. 30-tfn-P Upsy Cup Playpen infant seat, bathtub, high chair, carrier, boys clothing newborn to 18 mos., 4 drawer changer. Negotiable 298-2347. 30-tfn-P 14 weeks ® One Visit 607-772-8757 Moped Exc. cond. $400. Call 675-0480. 25-tfn-P Twin Head Boards & Framework white Provincial $70; dark wood coffee table $25; portable RCA 19°’ color TV, needs some repairs $50; Early American livingroom chair $10. 288-1506. 25-tfn-P Drapes blue with white lining, 72x84, new $8.; 3 prs. white drapes 50x45, $3. pr.; 1 pr. drapes antique satin lined 50x90 $7. new; tatted edged pillow cases and sheets to matc, table linens and napkins. Never used. All very reasonable. Must sell. 283-1732. 19-tin-P Gas Dryer $25. 696- 1222. 19-tfn-P Dining Room Table With 4 Chairs and 2 armchairs, steel slides and 3 leaves, buffet to match, like new. White 3 piece bedroom suit, like new. Combination color TV-radio-Stereo, very good cond., card table, washer and dryer. 675-2379. 19-tfn-P Olivetti Adding Machine $30; tires, $5. ea.; Spaulding golf clubs & bag, $50; brass fireplace screen $45; 2 royal blue cord twin bedspreads, $5. ea.; 1 pr. Holly Hobby Priscella curtains, 63" with matching tier, 36"’ and matching twin bedspreads $15 total. 696-3192. 19-tfn-P 4 Piece Redwood Patio Set 2 chairs, 1 loveseat, 1 table, no cushions. Good cond. $40; 15x15 livingroom rug, burn orange, $60. 287-2247. 20-tin-P 19.6 Frost Free Upright Freezer, white, exc. cond. $200. 675- 2602 evenings, 6-9 p.m. 20-tfn-P Moving Sale 3 pc. rust livingroom suite $450, poker table with 4 chairs, $75; various dressers, stereo components, JBL speakers, charcoal grill, antique bottles, 2 scuba tanks, misc. household iterns. Call 639-5835 after 9 a.m. 20-1fn-P.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers