| \{ § \ LAN on IER Nn I Ry L005 Re CS vi gn No news is good news—five words which express succinctly and accurately what most menswear designers and man- ufacturers seem to be saying for fall, 1981. Lapels are neither narrow nor wide, shirt collars neither small nor large. Everything is, sim- ply, just right. A trend toward experimenta- tion (in women’s wear, it would be called ‘‘playfulness’’) has, for the most part, been replaced by a serious attitude toward men’s clothing, reflecting the society of which it is a part. tails’’ only a year or two ago are today dismissed, by and large, as ‘‘gimmicks.’’ The new conservatism which seems to have taken hold in this country finds its expression in a host of well-tailored, elegant, absolutely classic suits in navy, .gray and brown. Patterns in tailored clothing are generally restricted to stripes, especially pinstripes, with an occasional glen plaid. Investment dressing The economic conditions which seem to be part and parcel of the eighties have given new impetus to an old phrase, ‘‘in- vestment dressing.’ American men want clothing that will endure—in terms of quality and in terms of styling. They want to feel good because they look good, and well-made, no-nonsense suits fit the bill. There’s a bit more excitement on the sport coat front, with lots of plaids (very preppy!) and her- ringbones to accompany a host of solid colored jackets, includ- ing new variations on the navy blue blazer. Color, if it appears on the of- fice scene at all, will make itself felt in shirts and ties. A light blue Oxford cloth shirt will sport a contrast collar. The same shirt will be repeated in a variety of pastels, all of which look absolutely smashing with the trim, all-business busi- ness suits. > nH Color ful shirts Also making its appearance in the office in a big way is the plaid shirt, in a wide variety of colorations. It’s the perfect perk-up for that serious gray pinstripe suit. @ FEMININE TOUCHES —The silhouette for fall: a full, sweeping skirt, outfitted with a softly patterned sweater. Both are key pieces in Henry Grethel’s latest sportswear collec- tion, inspired by the Irish countryside. The wool crew is patterned in subtle shades of brown, grey and oatmeal. The full spinning circle skirt is in a soft wool donegal tweed. Henry Grethel captures the spirit of the season with his “Equipment” sportswear collection. Look for lots of tab collars, a continuing interest in collar pins and, for the man who is so in- clined, a small but significant return to french cuffs. The tie story? Stripes, foulards, small scale plaids and sophisticated knits in a wide selection of patterns and weaves. Neckwear continues to be an area where a man can ex- press his sense of individuality Topping it all off are some of the handsomest overcoats in years, which range in style from the classic trench in every im- aginable fabric—and then some—to fur coats that are ab- solutely the last word in ele- gance. Those men who wish to com- bine fun and fashion would do well to turn to fall’s sportswear offerings. A wide range of colors is rep- resented for the ski enthusiast, the urban cowboy, and just about every man who needs clothes for his weekend ac- tivities (or lack thereof). Outerwear is designed for warmth and durability, with down, fiberfill, leather, suede and fur sharing the spotlight. Styling is upbeat: blousons, stadium coats, a variety of stylized military looks, bomber jackets and sporty raincoats are all very much in evidence. But, the real excitement in fall menswear is the sweaters, one of the positive by-products of the continuing fuel crunch. And, what sweaters they are! There are handsome ski sweaters embellished by snowflakes or reindeer. Fair isle sweaters in every conceivable variation. Windowpane patterns in a variety of hues. Elegant stripings. Sophisticated weaves and patterns executed in varying degrees of intricacy. All, this, of course, on top of the standard v- necks, boat necks, crewnecks and turtle- rainbow of solid colors. Important sweaters Whatever your style, what- ever the occasion, there’s sure to be a sweater—and sometimes more than one—to fit the bill. Layering, a sensible response to a fuel shortage, adds a whole new dimension to fashion. It all adds up to a season in which men are looking sharp, handsome and masculine, and in which fashion itself is very much in style. g
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers