I^g 1 MARVELS OF DESICN. Dow the World is ltansacked to FaroUb Forth tho Stylleh Women. By the courtesy of the manager of one of the great West Knd dressmak ing establishments, says a London ■wri ter, I was permitted to look through a portfolio of designs, not one of which had cost less than SIOOO to produce, and on some of which had been ex pended nearly $."000 each. This, be it noted, for the design alone! The port folio was fastened with two heavy ' combination locks, was only allowed to be seen by two persons in the business, and when not in use was jealously L 'guarded in a strong room. * It is not so much the actual design as the inspiration which costs the tnoney. The designers of the dresses are almost invariably men, and the majority of their great successes ard attained through extensive travel. For one design—the most expensive of the designs in tho above-mentioned port folio—ideas have been taken from the native dress of no fewer than seven countries—from Italy to Japan. The head-dress "shape" was of white Yedda straw, the maiu idea of It being a copy of tile hat commonly worn by the Italian peasant girl. There was nothing very striking about the sleeves except the cuffs. These, strange to suy, were modeled on the cuffs of a Balkan military tunic, and the differ ence they made to the general appear . ance of the whole dress was most re-. | markable. The skirt was a production which could not fall to rivet the attention of even the most disinterested person. Al though it was not a copy of any cos tume ever heard of, the designer had the main idea suggested to hint by the bnlloon-like nether garment of a Chi nese mandarin. This skirt, when, "built"—high-class dressmakers speak of "building" a skirt—greatly resem bled four bells, one telescoped over the other; and each of these Bells was com posed of what looked like twelve elon gated balloons upside down—that is to suy, with the round end of the balloons forming the rim of the bell. Milady's Trinkets. Among the fashionable Insects for ornaments, the dragon fly and the scarabeus are two leaders. t* * * Coral is the fad of the hour. Coral j lorgnette chains of extra length, even longer than those of gold, are much .Worn, and are composed of bends of varying size and range in color from the palest pink to dark red. Some times these beads alternate with those of crystal. * • * Very charming are the new long pins of gold intended to fasten the bunch of flowers to the corsage or muff. A butterfly or bee of brilliants for a head is very attractive, as they seem to be hovering over the flowers. The illuminated serpent is an evening coiffure ornament sent on to us from Paris. This is powdered with goldand glistening with gems until it seems lit by electricity. It is coiled in and out among the liuir. and with Its jeweled edges ulmost seems alive. f' Many quaint designs are observable among the latest coral brooches. One [s of fruit, surroundedwith gold leaves, while another shows autumn folluge with clustered berries. • • * As a hair ornament a dragon fly with outstretched wings of opal is beautiful. The small charms so much in de mand for milady's watch fob show many oddities. Among the newest are the elephant, sacred cow of India, pig, skull and crossbones and many other unique designs. The harvest moon still retains its place as the most fashionable brooch shape for the smaller gems, like pearls, diamond cuttings, etc. Philadelphia Becord. Signet Rings For Women. Signet rings are now popular with women. While the rings are not so v large, they are of the same style as those worn by men—a plain gold ring, with a large circular band in the cen tre, on which the initials are engraved. There is little ornamentation, and the ring, when worn with others on a woman's Augers, is conspicuous by its plainness. "Yes," said a John street jeweler, "L have nearly a dozen men busy making and engraving these rings, and they are all for women. How the fashion started I don't know, but not so long after they had been adopted by the men the women followed and took them up also. 1 presume the simplic ity of the ring is what took their fancy. Everything in the jewelry line has been so elaborate in style and make the last few years that I suppose women were glad to take up something plain for a change. "These signet rings are great things for presents. They are not expensive, and when you are In a quandary as to .what to give a friend for a birthday or Christmas present It Is not at all lnap gropriate to present him with a neatly engraved signet ring. It is a present that men and women can make to one another without the least embarrass ment, and one that will always be ap preciated."—New York Herald. To Avoid I.OKlna ltlnaa. A good rule to remember when one has costly rings and the habit of taking them off when the hands are washed— which, by the way, should always be done If one wishes to take the proper care of the stone—is always to place them between the lips. If the habit be once formed, it becomes second nature, and prevents adding another item to the columns of loss relating to the rings left In hotels, strange dressing rooms and other places. Said a woman who has a magnificent collection of rings and who has wisely exercised this habit since its inception: "I have never lost one or mislaid it, and, what is just as importnnt, I have never been through all the worrying anxiety of believing I bad lost some one or all of them." The woman whose fingers are clothed with flashy brilliants up to the joints may remonstrate that she has no room between her ruby lips, in which case there are two remedies: one to enlarge the mouth, the other to reduce the number of rings. Squirrel Skin in Fad. Gray squirrel has become a fad oT the season. It is to be found in the trimming of bats, the decoration of gowns and as collars. One fancy neck piece in squirrel skin is a large flat col lar falling over the shoulders with stole ends which reach almost to the feet. Another particularly charming design which is shown by one of the best furriers, is a flat collar with stole ends. These are bound, however, about four or live Inches back, with a loosely drawn silk cord, from which hang i fluffy balls of fur. Squirrel skin np -1 pears In entire jackets and in large flat muffs to match any of the above gar ments. For dresses, one .of the most satisfac tory colors in combination with the gray of the squirrel skin is a rich dark blue. Squirrel skin, though light In color, Is somewbnt trying to most com plexions, but this is easily overcome by suitable combinations in the color ing of the suits and the neckwear. Care of the Kyebrows* In caring for the eyebrows they should never be brushed or rubbed ex cept from the roots to the ends. After rubbing them the wrong way they will never lie as they ought to do and will bristle in unexpected places. A tiny comb and brush should be used dally on them to keep them soft and smooth. They should be carefully washed every day, and the same care must be taken about the direction they are rubbed in. They should have vaseline gently smoothed over them onee or twice a week. This will keep them in perfect health and serve to strengthen and thicken them. Where they nre scanty and coming out very much there is nothing better to use than a few drops of castor oil in a little paraffin. They are apt sometimes to be a little scurfy. When this Is the ease vaseline must be put on the spot, and It must be bathed with hot water and a little soap till It is cured. Kniclc-Knacka. Very pretty buttons made In china, oval, round and square, are to be bought following the designs of differ ent kinds of china, Dresden, Sevres and Staffordshire. Crystal and paste ball buttons ate effective, and these often form the tassel to narrow loops of ribbon, which have been run through tiny paste buckles, and replace the small flower tassels, which have been a good deal worn one way and an other. Knots tied In ribbons and In stocks require an education. A series of three or flvo chains festooned be tween bars Is a fashionable form of necklet, not to wear tight round the throat, but to rest on the neck. Brooches are worn very small, and some are beautifully painted. Some of the pearl brooches have very pretty pearl-shaped pearl drops. Peacocks with diamond tails are new, and a small feather In diamonds makes an admirable brooch. P|R€TTY |§a TOWfiAß^p Lace boleros are much worn. Painted sashes nre a feature of the bridesmaid's costume for fall wed dings. Green silk boleros on white muslin gowns are a pretty form of the green craze. Old English embroidery promises to be much worn during the coming months. Tiny gilt buttons are enjoying an ex ceptional degree of popularity as orna ments for tailored costumes. Some of the new short coats are finished with short shoulder cape pointed at the back; others have Capu chin hoods. The newest buckle is made of plati num, and some of the more elaborate designs In this metal are tinted and studded with coral. Veils that mutch the hats with which they are worn are considered very smart. Golden browne, castor and ma roon are the favorite colors. For trimming purposes lizard green, orange and old rose are the new colors, and they dispute suprema with the vivid blues and greens that have held sway for so long. Tan and gray are the most popular shades In the lisle suede gloves now so much worn, and those that are but toned are considered better form than the clasped ones this year. ; Household frjatters To Relacquer llras* Reila. If your brnss bed Is tarnished you can relacquer it yourself at small cost Buy ten cents' worth of gum shellac dissolved In alcohol, and apply It with u paint brush. Other household arti cles made of brass may be treated Iu the same way. Lavender-Scouted Sheet** La vendor-scented sheets aro tlie de light of dainty housewives, and it Is claimed that they induce sweet slum bers. The odor is exceedingly fresh, clean and wholesome, and old-fash ioned housewives always scented their linen and mipery with sprigs of the sweet tiower. Italiau orris root is sometimes sub stituted for the lavender if the latter cannot be procured, but there is no rea son why the farmer's wife or any one who has a plot of ground large enough l'o ra vegetable or flower garden should not raise quantities of lavender and keep the linens deliciously fragrant. Hatha For Palms* "Those whose palms persist in hav ing yellow and brown tips on their frouds should try the expedient of giv ing them a daily and thorough bath," says a women who has always been most successful with licr winter palms. "A sponge flipped in warm water and rinsed as often as It becomes dusty should be used to cleanse every crevice and both the under and upper side of tlie leaves, as otherwise tlie plant can not breathe, and breathing is as essen tial for plants as for people. Then In stead of pouring water ou the top of the earth set tlie pot, if uot too large to handle, In a bucket or the bathtub over night, two or three times a week. In either case the water should not be above the level of tlie pot, so that the plant may drink the moisture up and the porous earthenware vessel become thoroughly saturated. In this way no cartli or sustenance Is washed from the roots."—New York Tribune. liKllnn Ruga Need Disinfection, A woman who knows the West and its Indians gives a word of caution to those who are collecting Indian bas kets aud rugs. Any one, slie says, who lias ever been among the Indians real izes the unsanitary conditions prevail ing in their wick-i-ups or kogans. Filth aud disease of all sorts are much more apt to be the rule than the exception. Among the aborigines of the Southwest particularly water is almost an un known quautity. They have to de pend upon the irrigation ditches through their reservations, and a"two hours' run" of water every eight or ten days with no vessels to conserve the preeious fluid for use iu the meantime, gives small leeway for water to be used for cleansing purposes. The beau tiful Pinea and Apaelie baskets will all bear a good scrubbing with some dis infectant In the water. The Navajo rugs, If uew, may be disinfected with sulphur or formaldehyde—but 1* tliey show signs of any wear—wash thor oughly. The native wool blankets col ored with vegetable dyes are improved, not Injured, by washing. Those dyed with mineral dyes are apt to shrink and fade. The Navajo rugs honestly made are not only practically Inde structible, but rarely beautiful Iu de sign nnd coloring.—New York Commer cial Advertiser. . . RECIPES . . Baked Squash—Quarter the squash and remove the seeds; place In a bak ing pan; pour on it a few spoonfuls of water, just enough to keep from tmrn- Ing, and bake In a very moderate oven until tender and merely scrape tlie soft portions from the shell; mash, season well and serve very hot. Egg Salad—Cut hard boiled eggs in thick slices or into qunrters; arrange each portion on a loaf of lettuce partly covered with mayonnaise; arrange In a circle on a flat dish or platter, placing the stem of the leaf toward the centre of the platter; place a bunch of nastur tium flowers In the centre. Vanilla Sauce—Scald two cupfuls of milk In the upper part of a double boiler. Cream together two table spoonfuls of sugar and the yolks of four eggs and stir them Into the boiliug milk. Stir the custard until 1: thick ens. Itomove it from the fire, add a teaspoonful of vanilla and stand away to cool. Clam Sonp—Chop fine a cupful of clams nnd add to them their own liquor, straiued. Put lu one cupful of water, one slice of onion, a blade of mace, and simmer for thirty minutes. Thicken two cupfuls of milk with two tnblespoonfuls of flour and two tablc spooufuls of butter. Strain tbe liquor from the clams and stir it slowly with milk. Season with salt aud a dash of paprika. Just before the soup is sent to the table, and as It Is removed from tlie fire, stir in tbe well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Stewed Celery—Scrape and wash tlie green stalks of the celery; cut caeli stalk into inch pieces; lot them stand in cold water ten minutes; put them Iu a steam pan; cover with boiliug water and add one tablespoonful of salt; cover the pan and let cook until celery is tender; then drain off tbe water and cover with cold water; put one level tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan; when melted add one tablespoonful of flour; stir until smooth! add gradually one cupful of milk; stir over the fire until boiling aud thickened; add half a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper and the stewed celery; serve In a vegetable dish very hot Since 1872 4000 miles of railroad* have been laid In the Japanese Empire, ALEXANDRIA'S OLD TOWN CLOCK. Price of n Gambler Sold at Auction raid For It In URJI Eefore tbe ttir. Perhaps no clock In America has a more Interesting history than the one In the City Hall and market house at Alexandria. Va. It was installed as the purchase price of a gambler. In the days before the war Alexan dria was known by the sporting fra ternity as a pretty rapid place. But In these good old days It was square games and no cheating In the town. Once, however. Alexandria was visited by several professional gamblers from the Southwest in search for dupes, and a respectable citizen, in an evil hour, fell Into the snare they set for him. After a series of adverse games he found himself fleeced out of something like S3OOO. He paid without any bickering, but not very willingly. Then a lucky thought enabled him to take his re venge on the chief blackleg. Some how or other he learned that there was an old law in Virginia, established while she was yet a colony, in which it was provided that if any man cotild not show that he was pursuing some "law ful means of obtaining a livelihood," he should be sold or hired out at auction, to prevent his maintenance becoming chargeable to the town. Going before a Justice of the Peace the citizen entered complaint against the gamester. The man was arrested, tried and condemned to be sold at pub lic auction. At first be was disposed to treat the matter as a huge joke, but be found out bis mistake when lie was taken to the public stand and put up for sale. The victim started the bid with: "One hundred dollars." "Two hundred," said the gambler. And so gamester and victim went on bidding until the amount had reached S2OOO. Then the gambler begged to be let off, pleading poverty, but he pleaded In vain. There was no alternative. The gambler must either be forced to labor, under the supervision of the man who had small cause to love him, or he must go on bidding for himself. He was ac tually compelled to do this until the sum had reached $3500. Then he was knocked down to himself and per mitted to leave the town. The citizen gave the proceeds of the sale to the crty to be used for putting a clock in the Town Hall. The building was torn down a few years ago to make room for a larger aud more Imposing one. Not many of the Citizens knew tbe peculiar history of the clock and steeple, but CaptaiD Edward Dangerfleld was one who dill. Ho told the building committee that he was particularly desirous of having the old clock, which had done faithful service for so many years, repaired aud placed in the steeple of the now build ing, and he was willing to foot the ex pense. His wishes were carried out, and to-day the people of Alexandria still have their famous clock.—New York Sun. A Happy Ili-ltlcffrooin at 103. What is probably the most peculiar marriage license ever issued by a State official was prepared by tbe County Clerk of Gloucester, Va. The pecul iarity of this Instance lies In the ex tremo ago of the contracting parties, the man being 102 yenrs of age, and his intended wife eighty. The newly wedded pair are Solomon Lewis and his wife, both respectable colored people of this county. The ceremony was performed at New Mount Zion, In the upper part of the county, by the Rev. James Smith, a colored pastor. Solomon was a slave and belonged to the estate of Thomas Fauntleroy, of King and Queen Coun ty. Ills first wife died two years ago, after a married life of seventy yenrs. His grandmother was born aboard a slave ship while crossing to this coun try from Africa, and lived to be 110 years old. His mother, who died in 1803, was 101. He has a brother now living in Piuey Swamp at the great age of 107, whom lie remembers as driving beef cattle to Gloucester Point for the American Army during the War of 1812. Solomon claims to have been born In November 1799, anil thus was oue month old at the death of George Washington. The olu man is some what lient by age, but with the aid of a stick can walk and carry himself as erect as If he were only twenty-one. The marriage of the aged pair was a matter of great interest to the sur rounding county and was witnessed by a large concourse of white people, as well as a vast crowd of negroes.—Rich mond Dispatch. In Jnll, lint Still a> Son. Sentimentalists in song and come dians In ill-timod jests have not suc ceeded In cheapening the "mother" idea out of its beauty aud pathos. It is an idea that will outlast all tlie jests and jolts of time. The newest mother story—ln which there is neither a joke nor any senti ment but the truest—comes from West Virginia. Edward H. Williams Is in the jail at Hiuton, convicted aud sen tenced to a twenty years' term for murder. His aged mother lies ill at Princeton. Once transferred to prison he will never see her again. The other night Williams broke jail. He worked Ills way through the mountains to his old home and bade Ills mother fare well. Then, six days after Ills escape, he presented himself again at the jail door. One may wonder well at the contra dictory weakness which makes a vio lent criminal of a man so strong In gentler ways.—New York World. A frog's skin makes the thinnest, and At the some time one of the toughest, leather! than can be tanned. THE WORLD'S GREATEST WOMAN PHILANTHROPIST Remarkable Benefactions of the Baroness Burdett-Coutts. * * * * # IXTY-FIVE years devot ** * * ** ed untiringly to the dls <t* Ot ** tributlon of a vast for * * tune for the benefit of * ' * the poor—tliat is the re ** * * ** markable record of An ts ** * * g o [ a Georgina, Baroness Burdett-Coutts, the greatest woman philanthropist In English history, if not In tbe history of the world. The liaroness, who was born April 2.", 1814. is thus In her eighty-nlntli year. She commenced her active phil anthropic work when she was but twenty-three years old. She was a daughter of Sir Francis Burdett, one of the chief Liberal poli ticians of a century ago. Her inherit ance of nearly $10,900,000 was be queathed to her by her step-graud mother, the wife of Mr. Coutts, the banker. When the young woman by this be quest became the head of a bankiug house second only to the Bank of England she took the name of Coutts. Queen Victoria conferred a peerage on her in 1871. Including as it does many of the most crucial periods in English history the long life of the Baroness affords a remarkable review of events and changing conditions. Her munificent benevolence set the pace for the rich of all England, and the results have been immeasurable. One of this remarkable woman's most active lieutenants and quite her most important adviser, was no less a personage than Charles Dickens. The great novelist was familiar with every phase of life in London's Bqunlid East End, aud together the two visited the wretched dens and planned loviDg ly wholesale reforms. One of the first things accomplished was to demolish a low den for thieves and murderers In Bethnal Green aud erect In Its stead blocks of model dwell lngs—tlie Baroness was really the pio neer of model dwellings in London— with every accommodation in the shape of laundry, baths, etc., and a good library and reading room. All this was for people who had been surrounded by abominations of every sort; whose every breath liad sucked iu foul stench, and whose every foot step had been in slimy pools and de caying refuse shot from dust carts— truly a trap lor fevers aud lithesome diseases. These buildings were erected some half a century ugo, and they still bold their owu aud are indeed in ad vance of some of later date for drain age, ventilation and light. Forty odd years since a treaty was made with France on the basis of reci procity, under which large quantities of French silks were imported, to the practical abolition of the East End hand loom Industry. The weavers were absolutely starving for want of work, when Lady Burdett-Coutts came forward as the principal supporter of au association which had been formed for tbe relief of the sufferers. Some of them were started In small business, younger ones were trained for useful employments, and a sewing school was also opened, at which women of all ages were received, the workers being provided with a good meal ut the out set of each day's work. Here a large number of persons were employed at plain needlework, their earnings ranging from eight shillings to fifteen shillings per week—a very substantial addition to the scanty in come of these families, for many of the men had only the casual work which this bounty provided for tliem. The lads were specially looked after, many of them going to sea, and there was, in fact, a complete system of carefully devised help for youug and old. eveu to the engagement of profes sional nurses for the sick, and substan tial money aid that the homes of the people might be kept intact. Also a considerable number were sent out to Australia as emigrants, the Baroness not only defraying the cost of their passage, but also advancing sufficient money to keep them In comfort until they liad made a good start in the new world. It is good to record that this trust in the people was not abused, the whole of the money advanced being subsequently repaid by Instalments. When the bitter winter of 1801 over took the tanners of Bermondsey, aud they could not follow their occupation, they were also helped iu a substantial manner. The magistrates of the police courts of the neighborhood were inun dated with applications for relief, and the Baroness had her own agents at these courts, who inquired Into the cases and promptly relieved them. Many will remember tbe cholera epi demic which raged among the poor of the East End of London between thirty and forty years ago. Tbe part the Baroness played In relieving the sufferings of the victims is beyond all compute. In addition to paying the salaries of a qualified medical man, eight trained nurses, two sanitary in spectors and four men to distribute disinfectants, her gifts of food and clothing were on a most lavish scale. Take one week's gifts at random, and this Is the wonderful total: One thou sand eight hundred and fifty shilling tickets for meat, 250 pounds of arrow root, 500 pounds each of sngo and tap ioca, thirty pounds of black currant Jelly, fifty gnllons of port wine, twen ty-five gallons of brandy, twenty gnl lons of beef tea, 560 quarts of milk, 100 blankets, 400 yards of flannel and 400 assorted garments. At the eamo time vast quantities of bedding were sold at cost price to the people, and many new appliances and remedies Were tested In a practical manner. There is not a costermonger living in Loudon who has not the greatest veneration for her who Is known as "The Baroness." She has been their best friend for many years, has fought their battles when Bumbledon in its newest form threatened their partial extinction, and they are not likely to forget that as a body they owe their continuance of favored positions and many other benetils to her ready liber ality.—New York World. BRAZILIAN AVOCADOS. Increasing Popularity of tlin Alligator Pear. The increasing popularity of the avo cado, or alligator pear, has brought the Brazilian variety into great prominence of late. As a matter of fact, the fruit is not a pear at all, but belongs to the laurel family. The chief huthority on the subject is a picturesque West In dian, who imports these exotic dainties, and who is an enthusiast on the sub ject. "The avocado," he said, "is food and medicine, as well as refreshment. When nature made it. she intended it as the highest development of the vege table world. It is delicious, but not cloying. It has its own characteristics, but will gratefully accept all other flavors. For this reason it is the only fruit which can be eaten plain, with pepper and salt, with lemon juice and sugar, or with a salad dressing. New Euglanders have made It into a successful pie, which, to be candid, I do not recom mend, because I think pies are bar barous; and Brazilian cooks convert it Into a marvelous custard pudding. The peculiarity of the pulp is that it contains a large amount of lixed oil, which gives it a nutritive value supe rior to the olive and the peanut and makes It almost equal to the egg. "Though a stranger in New York, it is known and loved in every tropical and sub-tronical city. It is grown in the West Indies, Central and South America, Hawaii, the Far East, North ern. Eastern and Western Africa. Some enterprising Frenchmen have a small orchard not far from Palm Beach on the Florida Coast, and in Southern California there are hundreds of trees now hearing. The linest variety is not the Mexican or the Venezuelan, or even the Chinese, as is claimed by trav elers. but the Brazilian, and of these the very best come from the Island of Marajo, at the mouth & the Amazon, just opposite to Para. The fruit is of a lustrous, almost vitreous green. The skin is very tough, rather than hard, so much so that it should bo cut with a hard steel knife."—New York Post. . Habit of Inanity. A student ot child life and develop ment devotes a considerable portion of a volume embodying tile result of his investigations to the subject of ques tion answering. He does not advocate the encouragement of silly and iuune questioning, in which children some times persist. But this he says results from lack of proper mental occupation, and the child's mind should be at once directed to something interesting or puzzling, as there is such a thing as forming a "habit of inanity." But any reasonable desire for information which shows Itself In the thousand and one questions asked by the normal child from dawn to dark it is criminal to disappoint. It would be less unkind to refuse bread and water. Perhaps It Is wearying' to go patiently over fa miliar ground—the a b c's of life, not once only, but again and again, but the parent who is too indolent or selllsh to do this Is in reality starving his child, and no later acquisitions over quite make up in the mental develop ment what was denied it in its early expanding years; just as lack of phy sical food when the new bones and tis sue most need it will result in a stunt ed body which no amount of Inter feeding will ever bring up to normal size. The Law Business. Overcrowding is the motto of the day. The factories are overcrowded. The theatres are overcrowded. The only reason why one does not say that the street cars are overcrowded, is that they are something worse. All such overcrowdings, however, are sparse ness and loneliness compared with the overcrowding of the bar. In 1891 there were flfty-elght law schools with ! 1107b students. Now, according to an estimate made by Professor Huffeutt, of Cornell, there are 120 schools with 14,000 students. Meanwhile the num , her of full fledged lawyers in the United States is said by the last census to be about 114,000. No other profes , siou, with the exceptiou of teaching I and of medicine, Is so populous.—Chi cago Tribune. Doctor With 1500 l'atlents. At an inquest held on an old man I who was found dead in bed at the Ken , frew road workhouse, Lambeth, the I medical evidence showed that the man . had died some seven or eight hours be ; fore being discovered. Dr. Eastou said . there were 1500 Inmates, anil he was ■ the only medical officer. The night t nurses, each of whom had 300 persons ■ under their care, went through the • wards once every two hours. The Cor , oner said: "I cannot see how one med -1 icai officer can examine such a large i number of inmates. There seems to ! me to be a false sense of security.'" 1 The jury expressed the hope that the I press would make "this disgraceful state ot things known."—London Mall.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers