The Gentlewoman. A woman to be well dressed must, Brst of all, be exquisitely neat and clean. Her clothing may not always be of tire handsomest, but there Is something in the way In which she puts on nor clotlies. In her careful at tention to detail, that marks her as the well-dressed woman. Even though others outshine her in the costliness of their attire, there Is somothiug so fresh and unsullied In her appearance that she has a greater charm than her more expensively dressed sisters. The neat woman never neglects her daily bath. She pays scrupulous attention to her hair and scalp. Her teeth are well cared for, and her hands, clean and white, with well-kept nails, be speak the gentlewoman. Patchwork. At this season, when "shut Ins" are apt to find time hanging heavy on their hands, suggestions for a new kind of patchwork that possesses the advantage of covering both sides, wad ding and quilting, all at the same time, may well be passed on for the benefit of those who do this kind of work. The directions, as sent In by a sunshine friend are: "Cut pieces of Bilk about four and one-half Inches square, turn and baste down each of the four sides, leaving squares of four Inches. Then fold them over diagon ally, making three-cornered pieces; In sert a piece of wadding tire same size and shape, and baste the edges to gether. Four of these triangles over handed make a square block. The effect is good when one triangle in Sach block is of black, one of white or some uniform color.. In joining the blocks together the blocks should be In corresponding position to make a regular pattern. The bias lines of two of the eilk pieces that go next each other can first be run together by hand or ma chine on the wrong side, and then each folded over, padded and basted. Wits avoids having to overhand the bias sides with danger of stretching. Philadelphia Inquire Sable Hats Are Vogue. For wear with the dressy frock of velvet or broadcloth, a hat trimmed In sable is most effective. This does not necessarily Imply the possession of a sweeping fur set in the same expen sive skin, for a stole which is ade quate for wear with the sable hat may be built of chiffon, lace and same sa ble heads and tails. Or more stately stoles show velvet appllqued on satin with fur ornaments and tails for a finish. Sometimes a bit of gold thread Is employed in appllqueing the velvet, but this must be done with great care, as it either makes the garment look extremely chic or im possibly homemade. A model which lends itself particu- larly to Russian sable is a lrat which Is a clever, combination of the turban and the English walking hat with its upturned brim. Such a chapeau, if Well shaped and built of finest fur, needs no ornament save a sweeping plume. Mbny colors are shown in the N plumes combined with sable, but a longi white plume is the most effective If the hat must lend itself to both eve ning and day wear. Such a hat. If worn with a black velvet dress, makes a woman look almost regal, provided, of course, that she carries herself properly. Newark Advertiser. Slippers to Match Gown. Slippers for housewear are most fascinating: Jlist now for each one has a hit of decoration which, combined with their exquisite shapeliness, makes them all that the most exacting fern- : Inine heart could desire. Satin slippers are perhaps most charming in the duchess shape for evening wear, and in pretty mules and for toilettes to use In one's own room, but the colored kids and patent ' leathers are almost as dainty and equally fascinating. Ribbon, buckles and embroidery in silks and beading, all contribute skillfully to beautify these French-heeled affairs. The main difference in slippers seems to He in the height of the heel and in the dec orations. Stockings, too, are made up in silk to match in coloring the exact shades of this fancy footgear. The .most deli cate pink, blue or lavender slipper can always be worn over' a stocking that absolutely blends In tint But, in deed, these stockings are no mere ac cessory to the shoes: Most of them are elaborately and ornamentally done in embroidery or open work. A full design that well covers the ankle and instep, 1b most worn. Wreaths and sprays of flowers, either tied or not, and all lines dotted designs, ap pear on the finest makes. A popular style In red kid, and In deed in other slippers, is the hlgh jolnted tongue with a one-button strap at the top of the vamp. Rhine stones, or these and red stones mine-led. are used in buckles on these lit tle straps and varied by a buckle of . cut steel. Slippers without tie tongue sometimes wear a full-tied bow of inch-wide red ribbon. The tongue and strap style can be found also In cham pagne color. The buckle is then of gilt, perhaps. Philadelphia Tele graph. How to Amuse Children. Some one wanted to know how to amuse little ones. Perhaps this may help, says a writer in the Boston Sun. day Globe. , I have three, and some days I am at my wits' end to know how to amuse them. Rainy days are a source of regret among most children, and no wonder they get mischievous. I take some pieces of brown paper, such as comes from the- shore, and cut it into a convenient size and sew i It in the middle, making a book. Then I give them each an old magazine and let them cut the pictures out and pasto them In. I make a dish of flour paste and they use tooth picks for brushes. I let them sit at the kitchen table and this keeps them busy for a half a day. I doh't mind the muss as they don't get any thing daubed ex cept the table, which Is easy to wash. Sometimes I try to have them put them In with some degree of, order and group them with an Idea to make them correspond, but I found it lost half Its Interest then. They wanted to do it Just their way. So now I never interfere. I have lots of books given me and sometimes I feel it is too bad to destroy them when some one else might have them, but then I think again that they do my children lots of good, too. I have three and do all my own work, and I don't have much time to entertain my children as I would like to. I take time to try and make home pleasant, and I don't want to do, as a friend of mine ex presses it, "worry them up." She was a school teacher, and is "worrying" her three boys up to manhood. They certainly are "terrors,"but verybright, and I don't know why she can't con trol them. They come here and my children all bring playmates home. I have to be grateful for one thing: My children are rogues at home, but behave very nicely when I take them out. I know It is generally opposite, but I can take any of them anywhere without being afraid of their making me ashamed. I' don't take any credit to myself for this, as It has Just hap pened so. The youngest is apt to talk a good deal to me and to any one else who will talk to him. Trousseau for Moderate Income. Many women are at a loss to know exactly what garments and the qual ity which constitutes the ''average trousseau, and a letter has been re ceived of that nature, which states thlat only a small Income is enjoyed and that quality rather than quantity Is preferred. Although every prospec tive bride knows about what she wants in this line, the money question is, of course, a barrier to all of the heart's desire, and tact and good Judg- melt must be exhibited in tlrl3 rather delicate situation. The lingerie is a broad field on which to work, and Btill there is such a variety and assortment one finds it rather difficult to choose. Sheerness is first of all the most im portant, and the quality of the ma terial has a great deal to do with the appearance of the garments. Under vests, of course, are of lisle thread, and the corset covers, underskirts, both long and short, and the various articles included in this department are trimmed with Valenciennes lace or some kind which washes well and has good wearing qualities. There are several styles of new un derwear which Is not of the French make, but which is extremely pretty and appropriate for the occasion, and at this time of the year it is possible to obtain remarkable bargains in soiled lingerie. To make one's own outfits is, perhaps, the best of all, and there are little stitches and ideas added which greatly enhance their beauty and which are not obtainable In the shops. The present day sleep ing gowns are indeed beautiful, and they are exceedingly easy to make. The Empire style leads In popular ity, and these, of course, are shirred from a tiny yoke and have, if desired, a deep collar of lace or lace and ma terial which gives at once the desired frou-frou effect Sleeves are short and many have long trains, which also add to their beauty. The skirts, many of which have ad justable flounces, are made rather plainly, and if one is handy with her needle hand embroidery might be sub situted in place of quantities of lace. A trousseau does not necessarily have to contain many piece, the idea is to have Just enough and have them of the best. House gowns and wrappers, of course, demand a great deal of atten tlon, and some of the homemade ones are very much prettier than those In the stores. If one remembers to keep within the limit of her Income and not waste money In duplicating the differ ent articles, a handsome trousseau might be possessed by any girl of mod erate means. . To Reduce the Temperature. A very warm and uncomfortable room may be made much pleasanter, especially in cases of sickness, where the life of the patient often depends on his being kept cool, by hanging large, thick, wet cloths in windows or doors, says the Ladies' Home Journal. The evaporation will soon reduce the temperature several degrees. To Clean Linoleum. For ten square feet of linoleum al low two eggs; break these into a basin and beat sufficiently to partially mix them, and then add one quart of lukewarm water. Dip a soft flannel cloth In this mixture and go over the linoleum; wring out the cloth and wipe a second time, using care not to step where this has been done, then leave it to dry in the air, not using the room till the floor is thoroughly dry. The linoleum will look like new. The Nor'west Farmer. Sanitary Housekeeping. Few women there are who do not know how salient an item is the scrupulous care of the refrigerator or ice chest, yet how many of us take the trouble to see that this important work is rightly accomplished? ?t Is monotonous reading to be told that this receptacle should be cleansed thoroughly twice a week and wiped out daily. The waste-pipe leading from the Ice chamber too often proves a medium for the "solid food" cul ture of germs as the constant drip ping of melted Ice will, unless un usual care is bestowed upon It, form a gelatinous coat, on which the germs of Termination thrive. A strong alkali, such as potash commercially known as lye or chloride of lime, should be poured down this pipe at least twice a week. Sinks, washstands and toilets should likewise receive careful attention and disinfectants should be generously used. Harper's Bazar. Rugs and Carpets. How many rugs and carpets are worn out In half the time they should last by the constant .beating and sweeping they receive? Instead of this they should be kept clean with a carpet sweeper and occasionally put out on the grass. Lay them on the wreng side and beat with a furniture beater; then reverse and sweep care fully, using a soft brush In preference. A little airing outside of the sun's rays is) very good for them. Always brush the' carpet In the di rection which the nap lies, never In the opposite direction, as this destroys the luBter. When a large carpet Is to be thoroughly cleaned it Is better to send It where the work is properly done. These cleaners do the work very effectively and are not hard upon the carpets. If, however, you have carpet squares or rugs you wish to clean at home proceed as follows: Stretch and tack the square upon a clean floor, then scour it well with soapsuds. After the scouring it must be thoroughly rinsed to remove all traces of the soap, after which the rug should be left In the same position to dry, and the tacks should not be removed un til it is perfectly dry. If this is done the rug will not shrink and will He perfectly flat upon the floor when down. Creases and ridges are sometimes seen in rugs, which look like an im perfection In the weaving. This is In. variably the Tesult of the rug having been folded and not rolled. Philadel phia Inquirer. Recipe. Breaded Tripe. Cook some honey comb tripe In boiling water until ten der. Cut in small squares or Angers and dip each In beaten egg and then roll in fine bread or cracker crumbs. Fry a delicate brown in a basket in deep fat. Cook two pounds of tripe In boiling water until tender, then cut in several pieces and lay In a buttered baking dish. Pour over one-half can of to matoes and half a medium sized onion minced fine. Dust with salt and add a few drops of tabasco sauce, using about half a teaspoon In all. Dot with butter, using a rounding tablespoon, and bake three-quarters of an hour. Brown Bread. iMIx one cup each white corn meal, rye flour and gra ham flour, one teaspoon salt, one tea spoon soda and two even teaspoons baking powder. Then stir In half cup molasses and two cups sour milk and if not thin enough to pour add a little more' milk or water. Sour milk and molasses vary so much in amount of acidity they contain that It Is safer to use baking powder i,n addition to the soda. Stir in one cup raialns, which have been prepared and cut in halves. Pour Into a wellgreased mold or pall and steam three hours. Rye and Indian Bread. Mix two cups common yellow corn meal, one cup rye meal, one level teaspoon salt, one level teaspoon soda mashed fine and two level teaspoons baking pow der. StTr in two and one-half cups sweet milk and one-half cup molas ses and one cup prepared raisins. Mix thoroughly and turn Into a greased pall or mold with a tight cover. Stand the mold on a trivet in a kettle of boiling water, enough to come two thirds of the way Tound the mold; cover the kettle tightly and keep the water boiling steadily for four hours. Replenish with boiling water as needed. New York City. The shirred blouse coat makes uu unquestioned favorite of the son son mid Is eminently attrac tive In all the new soft mid pliable ma terials. This one Is unusually graceful and is made of dove gray veiling with trimming and belt of silk, but it is adapted to the entire range of suitable materials. The broad shoulder line, given by the yoke, which Is extended over the sleeves, Is one of the newest features, and the sleeves, shirred to form double puffs with frills below, are among the latest shown, while the vest effect Is both notable aud very generally becoming. The coat Is made with the fitted foundation, full fronts and back, which ore Joined to the yoke and vest and arranged over the lining. Tire sleeves also are mounted- over foundations, which are faeed to form the cuffs and which serve to keep the shirring i-i place. The belt Is soft and draped, shirred at its edges and closed In visibly. The quantity of material required for the medium size is live and three-fourth yards twenty-one, four and one-half yards twenty-seven, or three yards forty-four Inches wide, with one yard twenty-one Inches wide for trimming and belt, three yards of silk for lining. The Kimono. The kimono's influence Is more wide spreading than at first appears. It has found its way Into our negligees, whether made of soft flannel, silk, wool, or chiffon. The skirts are long and flowing, as are the sleeves. Hoods often appear at the back of the bo dice, from which depend long stoles in front The several occupations of our modern life demand a constant Hats and Wrap. Of all the headgear of the season the medium types remain. The very small hat, the pole cap, represents the ex treme of tiny hats, with many of the turbans the most popular choice. There are very close turbans, too. The Louis XVI. face hat, with more or less up turned back brim, lingers in favor and Is the shape of some of the prettiest warm weather examples. In extra wraps for evening and car riage wear there's a Tery charming A LATE DESIGN BY MAY MANTON. change in our raiment, and between whiles It Is a comfort to slip into a loose, easy gown. Like evening dresses, these are often made with a distinct front breadth. flirt's Costume. Surplice effects are anions the new est and most effective of all models for young girls, mid will be greatly worn (luring the coming season. The very attractive little frock Illustrated combines a waist so made with a cir cular skirt, but Is closed Invisibly at the centre back. In the case of tlie model the material Is pale green alba tross with chemisette and cuffs of string colored lace, and the trimming of silk banding and lira id, but all those Hint are soft enough to render shirring effective are appropriate. The frot'k consists of the -waist por tion and the skirt. The waist is made over a fitted lining, on which the chemi sette Is arranged, and consists of the full front and backs. The collar ex lends well over the shoulder and serves to finish the front edges of the waist, while the sleeves are made over fitted linings, which aro faeed to form cuffs, the full portions being shirred midway of their length, so forming double puffs. The skirt Is In one piece and is shirred at Its upper edge. The quantity of material required for the medium size (twelve years) is ten and one-half yards twenty-one, nine yards twenty-seven, or live yards for ty-four inches wide, with seven-clghtb yards of all-over lace, eight yards of wide and twelve yards of narrow braid to trim as illustrated. model in a peculiar silk aud wool mix ture of an ivory shade. It is full, square, reaches below the hips aud is fitted with a cape thut is square and pleated. Capes are returning for evening and carriage wear. So fur they are of fine broudcJoih, almost full length, and made ' . the delicate colors. The heaviest pongee silk In any and every color is made into stunning belted, full length redlngetes. In the delicate colors these arc suitable for veiling coats.' SCIENCE NOTES. The production of metallic calcium at a retail price of $2 a pound ' in Germany Is of interest, although the present demand is small. The metal was first Isolated by Sir Humphrey Davy, who first formed an amalgam by electrolyzlng lime mixed with mer curic oxide, and then distilled off the mercury. In describing a case of diphtheria in the Northwestern Lancet, Dr. C. D. Harrington of Minneapolis, Minn., says: "An Interesting feature of this case was the discovery of the source of Infection In the family cat, which was observed to be moping around. A culture from the cat's throat and one from the child's throat revealed the presence of the diphUierla germ In both cases." It is reported that considerable moneyis .being invested In Mexico in the manufacture of artificial silk. It is said that the country Is especially suited for this industry and the out look is very favorable. The process followed Is the same as has been In troduced In other parts of the world in the past few years, but the especial advantages of the country make the outlook particularly bright for a great industry. It Is stated that the arti ficial silk can be sent to England and sold at $3 per pound, while the real silk costs from $14 to $50. The Boston Society of Natural His tory is devoting attention to the dis play in Its museum of the fauna of New England. New England palaeon tology Is to bo shown In the eastern end of the building between the rooms devoted to the palaeontology of the rest of the world, while the remaining available space will be devoted to tho recent birds and mammals. In the galleries will be arranged the lower vertebrates and the Invertebrates. Ac cordingly, the local fauna, which Is to be the leading feature of the museum, will occupy the most prominent and central position, from which the vari ous portions of the general collection will diverge. The air-drying process of James Gayley Is claimed to be an improve ment in Iron-making second only to the hot blast Introduced by Nellson In 1S28. The smelting of a ton of Iron requires a furnace charge of about 7200 pounds of raw material and 'the supplying of 11,700 pounds of air. While the composition of the ore can be limited to ten percent of variation, however, the moisture of the air may vary from twenty to one hundred per cent in the same day, the range in Pittsburg being from three to seven gallons per hour for each one thous and cubic feet of air per minute-. In the new process the excess of mois ture Is' removed by refrigeration, and tests show that the product of Iron is made more uniform, while the output Is Increased twenty percent for the same fuel. WONDERFUL CATCHES. Fans Fall to Discriminate, Says Lit tie Willie Keeler. "The outfield catches that the peo ple in the grandstand think are won derful and the catches that the players know are really wonderful are no more alike than molasses and quick sand," said Willie Keelor the other day. "In one game 1 played I went back to the fence for one hit high above my head, and caught It over my shoul ders while going at such speed that I banged Into the fence. The cheering was tremendous, but It wasn't a diffi cult catch at all. for the ball kept in the air. "A moment later a low one came whlzzttig over second. I darted in foi it as fast as I could go, but had tc take a long flying plunge to keep the ball from touching the ground. I got it about six Inches above the grass. I slid along for ten or fifteen feet. II was fifty times a more difficult catch than the other, but I never got a hand." "The same thing is true of Infield plays," said Elberfeld. "I ran over to second one day In Philadelphia to take a throw from the catcher. A mosquito flew In my eye as I started, and reaching second, I turned my back on the ball and threw out my right hand to keep the runner from spik ing me. The ball from the catchet lodged In my finger tips, tho runner ran plump Into It, and the umpire called him out. You should have heard the cheers for an accidental play for which I deserved no credit. "Later, with the bases full and righthandod batters coming, I went In. played about 15 feot from the pitcher, and by stopping two cannon balls caught two men at the plate and the third batter at first, but the crowd didn't see anything In that to applaud." Baltimore Herald. , Boston Symphony Salaries. The terms under which the Boston Symphony players are engaged are very various. The rank and file are for the most pact under annual con tracts for a season of 29 weeks (oT which 24 are devoted to the Boston concerts and five to travelling), at a salary from $30 to $35 a week upward. The chief players the first violin, or concert-master, and some of the other best violinists, the first 'cellist, the first performers on the other instru mentsreceive more, up to an an nual salary of $5000. with engagements of several years. Some receive week ly salaries of. various amounts guar anteed for various periods of time be yond the regular season, sometimes as long as 45 weeks In the year. The conductors have received salaries of about $8000 or $10,000. A TALE OF THE SOUTH 8EA. In on of the balmy tropical liles. Where Nature on ber children smites. Where t hn bright nan shines and the soft winds fan, And the hrcaluaftt food of mankind is maB A cannibal youth and a anuibul maid Mads love 'tiiutU llio iialui uue's gratefaj shndo And be said, "My dear, you are sweet M sweet I On my word, you are sweet enough to eat I Hut the maid sprang up with a tuddei bound. And aelaed Ida war club from tli" crotind, And aliuod nt the youth a mighty blow If bo hadn't dodged 'twould nave laid Ma low. "rn wct enough to eat J" she cried. I d lie bulled or roasted, at owed or fried 1 You d add your bride to your bill of fare?" nut be heard no more, fir he wasn't tfcera V'Hf I'',r n,a acroc-n the plnln, Ana never, never came back asaln. or be said, "Though aveiso to a bacholoi . "ft ' Ml tfe cooked If I marry such a wife I" New York Press. JUST FOR FUN He Witty people make me tired! She Urn. Keeping up with them? Detroit Free Press. "I hear he Is very happy as an after dinner speaker." "Psslbly, but it is more than may be said for his audi ence." Brooklyn Life. Miss Planely Reggie says I grow prettieer every time he sees me. Miss Roastem You ought to have him call oftener. Cleveland Leader. Bacon How Is Brief's standing at the bar? Egbert I don't know much about his standing, but his lying seems all to the good! Yonkera Statesman. "A blizzard Is a big nuisance," said Uncle Eben, "but It's a sort o' com fort to fin' sumnln disagree'ble dat can't be blamed on a trust" Wash ington Star. "The life of an Insurance agent," sighed Premyutns, "Is full of worm wood and gall." "I hadn't noticed the wormwood," growled the victim. Cleveland Leader. "What is tire chief product of the United States?" asked the teacher in a European school. And without hes itation the bright pupil replied: "Money." Washington Star. Maudie Why did you- fire your chauffeur? Mayme Lost his nerve after running over three people tha other day and allowed two others, to escape. Chicago Dally News. Tlgglns I guess nobody was sorr when Skinflint died. Wiggins Oh, H wasn't so bad as that. I heard Jo Scroggins say he was sorry Sklnflinj hadn't died long before. Boston Trail script. "Well, Jane, did you have a gdod time at home? Was the village very gay?" "Yes, thank you, mum. But we was rather disappointed, as tha policemen's foet didn't come off!" Punch. Willie Pa, what does "panegyric" mean? Pa Let me see. Oh, yes; It's a medicine to make you sleep. I used to have to give) it to you nearly every night when you were a baby. Phil adelphia Ledger. Doctor Madam, I can never cure you of this throat trouble if you don't stop talking. Lady But, doctor, I'm awfully careful what I say, and I nev er use anything but the choicest lan guage. Detroit Free Press. "It took Jim Bronson two years to learn the trick." "What trick?" "Why, when he wanted his wifo to do a thing he told her so, and of course she wouldn't do it. Now he tells her not to do It." Cleveland Plain Dealer. - Henpeck So you consulted a for tune teller, eh-? What did she tell you? Youngman She told me I was born to command and Henpeck Ah! She means then that you are never to marry. Philadelphia Ledger. "Do you know where my poor little ugly duckling. Is?" asked the dis tressed mother duck. "Ah, madame," replied the polite but still hungry fox, "I have inside information on that point; you will soon meet your little one." Philadelphia Press. Waggsby I'm going to be mighty saving of my shrimp an minnows next time I go fishing. Naggsby Why so? Waggsby Haven't you noticed how the government Is watching the lines that Indulge In too many re baits? Baltimore American. "I suppose It's always hog-killing time in your town. Miss Packer?" sneered the New Yorker. "O! yes," replied the fair visitor from Cincin nati,, "but don't let that keep you from visiting us. We always protect our guests. Philadelphia Pre.s. "I was reading today In thu newpa per of the great American desert; what Is the great American desert?" asked the lady at the head of the table. "Why, I believe the great American dessert Is prunes," deplled tho thin boarder feelingly. Yonkers Statesman. Examining Physician (for lnsur ance company) I'm afraid we can't take you, sir. You are too great a rlslf. Applicant (resignedly) Well, perhaps I am. The fact Is, that when I get sick I never send for a doctor. I just lay around until I get well. Exam ining Physician Eh? Um we'll take you. New York Weekly. Harry (reading aloud) "Thence two feet to a certain point, thencer six inches to another, and thence three feet tor " Father What's that you're (reading, son? Harry It's a treasure story, sir. Father (resuming papery Humph! Sounds like direc tions for a trombone solo!" New Or leans) Times-Democrat. n
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers