TALKS mAB(IiTm a . 44 A k iBstk .at A tlreaa NactmiHr. Shirt waists of some sort have be come one of the necessities of dress and their popularity has brought forth the shirt waist suit The shirt waist suit Is mode of foulard, madras, mer cerized cheviots, surahs and taffetas, but the simple figured foulards and the plain surahs are the most fnsh ionablc. They are made with either plaited or box plaited skirts end blouses without linlnga, and Birdies or belts of the same material, and with them is worn dainty turno.tr collars and cuffs. A charming com bination is that of nun's veiling and taffeta. A model of dark blue veiling 1s combined with a green and blue shot taffeta. The bloiisn of the veil ing has a little jacket of the silk, with short sleeves 'sloshed over the undersleeves of veiling and ecrue lace. The skirt Is laid in tucks. A t-'rench I'rn.llv, Faris critics are now enthusiastic over a lfl-yoar old Rlrl whose marvel ous singing and acting seem to prom is for her a great future. Her name Is Marthe Plerat, and s'.io mado her debut at the Odeon. On the day after her first appearance the Paris Jour nals eulogized her voice, her acting and her beauty, until the name "Sec ond Bernhnrdt" has come to be quite commonly applied to her. It Is stated he takes her triumph calmly and al together as a matter of course, but her friends say that she is In no danger of being spoiled by early ad miration. She is a conscientious artist, with ambition, energy and ten acity, lier beauty is said to be fas cinating, and the simplicity and nat uralness of her manners would have mado her famous even had she not been blessed with the additional gifts of musical and histrionic ability. The Car of the Nll. A young woman who has bwn liv ing In Paris for a year says that no French manicure who treated her hands used a cuticle knife about her nails or a steel nail-cleaner. The little orange-wood sticks sharpened to a broad point were used to push back the encroaching cuticle, and to clean ttfe nails after each washing of the bands. In this way the delicate en- "aroel of the nail is not injured, and the under surface of the nail point is kept smooth. The French manicures, too, polish more often with a bit of chamois rather than a regular pol isher, and cut the nails with a clipper Instead of curved scissors. These clip pers come in pairs, one for cutting the nails of each hand. Emery beards or a velvet file is recommended for the little filing needed to s.iape the nalla. Never cut the cuticle around the nail, but press back lightly with the orange wood stick. Daily brief care when the nail is soft from the use of soap and water Is all that Is nledcd to keep the hands in good condition with a weekly manicuring. Use lemon juice instead of any other acid to remove stains. Harper's Bazar. "Hetleae Girl" In Town. "The dean of Chicago university has pronounced against the 'hatlcss girl,' " said a woman at the seashore. "It Is exceedingly difficult to see Juat where the summer maiden vexes pro priety by her pleasant habit of going hatlcss on a warm evening, or why, when she carries a parasol, or travels along country lants or village streets in a covered phaeton on a summer's day, it is also necessary to burden her head with a hat. Custom is a curious thing. A woman is urgently besought to remove her hat in the theatre, and reviled for not doing so; and she may go to balls with a wisp of lace over her coiffure, or sit hatlcss in her own yard. But the air of the ntreet sud denly renders the hat less girl Improp er. No women in the world have been so chained to the hat as those of America. Women of the southern races have always been independent of a head covering when they chose, and summer heat throughout the United States, though not as long con tinued, Is as torrid as in countries nearer the equator. Furthermore, no hat is prettier than a pretty bead of hair, and nothing Improves the latter more than eun and air. New York Tribune. Garland for the Hair. The hair is still raised In front a la Pompadour, slightly waved, and if the forehead be very high, it may be re leived by a few curls on the brow; while on the back of 'the head the re mainder of the hair is massed loosely in a light chignon or turned up In a catogan, in that careless manner that is, after all, the most ditncult to achieve without untidiness. Wreaths of real flowers were much worn in the hair In Paris during the last days of the season. Of course, the idea of a wreath of natural blos soms is old enough, but it Is long since It has been used. However, the fluffy looseness of the hair dressed at the back of the bead, not too low down, with the high pompadour in front, seems eotactly made for the floral wreath to come between. Natural leaves have been chosen In i many cases; they are carefully wired ' In order that they may take the prop er garland shape, surrounding the loose colls at the back and rising well n the top of the head. Lllies-of-the-yalley, with their long leaves, make a most successful - wreath arranged round the loose chignon in this man ner; the foliage Is the most important portion of the adornment, a few white bells jiiRt giving a nuggestton of color. Heal violets and leaves can also be favorably used, and pink or scarlet geraniums with variegated foliage come out pleasingly. A Woman ffnn tierorn'or. A clever New York woman, who has succeeded as a house decorator, is now developing a novel adjunct to her business, which is finding hearty co-operation from the real estate dealers. To sell or leaso a houso or apartment, agents have discovered that interior appeal ant e at the time of Inspection greatly facilitates. There Is mor4 money to bo made in proportion out of a rental of a fur nished house or npnrtment than from those unfurnished. Peeple who go to New York merely for a season or two desire artistic settings which ore out of their reach save at largo expendi ture. This clever womnn has accu mulated large assortments of antique furniture, picked up at auction for a song, and she Is an acknowledged con noisseur. This furniture she leases tc guaranteed parties. She co-operates with a firm of women real estate deal ers. The latter, for example, have an apartment which rents unfurnished for l."0; the decorator fits It up with her antique, which give the appear ance of wealth, and the rent rises to say 1100. Fifty dollars monthly soon pays the decorator for tho outlay, and once the furniture is paid for. repairs excepted, it may be rented repeatedly at clear profit. It is stated that the two apartments fitted up in this man ner paid for the furniture In lrs than three months and Increased the business of the agents to such an ex tent that they are unable to meet the demands for such apartments. flow t-'ahlnna Are Set. Beyor.d peradventure fashion rules; but who rules fashlonT This question Nancy M. W. Woodrow seeks to an owrr In the Cosmopolitan. She ex plains that in England Queen Alexan dra is leader of the mode. When the Queen, then Princess, donned a high Jeweled collar to hido a disfigurement of the neck, almost every English woman of fashion "fitted her neck to the yoke like an obedient ox." . "On this side of the water wj have no official arbiter of modes, no courts or royal lies to determine the disputed issues of fashion. Nevertheless, there Is in this country a standard as fixed as that of England or France. In each of our largo cities one or more women are recognized as social leaders, whose fiat on questions of etiquette and pre cedence is all-supreme; but It is to a little coterie in the metropolis, whose wealth, position, beauty and taste render them independent of cavil or criticism, that we look for guidance in tho matters of fashion. "As much at home on one side of the Atlantic as on the other, these women are- entirely free from tho dif fidence of provincialism; and, gifted with unerring discrimination, they in variably select what best accords with their own preferences, serenely re gardless of how the rest of the world may look upon the Innovation. As a matter of fact, the rest of the world usually tumbles over Itself In Its haste to follow in their footsteps. "These are the women who form the oligarchy of fashion in America, tho supreme council before whose bar the conceptions of tailor and milliner and bootmaker must stand, to be cither adjudged worthy or ruthlessly condemned and cast Into outer dark ness." BENEFIT r A linen crash gown is trimmed with large French knots. Shepherd check mohairs are Includ ed in the Beaton's collection of fash ionable fabrics. Gray silk hosiery la very dainty with the open work fronts dotted with little clusters of steel beads. Oriental embroideries for collars, cuffs and re vers on canvas gowns have a most striking effect. Shcsrlness of fabric Is the special feature of Uio season's lingerie. There are some pretty petticoats of china silk, lace trimmed. Night robes are mostly in the Empire style. Bands of fine linen, either white or colored, joined with a fancy stitch or a band of lace Insertion and inset di rectly In front with a lace medallion, nre among the pretty things for dress ing the nock. Since the contrasting shades of lin ing have come in again grass lawns have blossomed out anew. Tbey come In wide variety, some embroidered in different colored dots, others have vel vet dots woven in. Many of the waists blouse in the back as well as in front. Of course, the fulness is by no means' as much as it Is in front, and it never appears except in very thin, soft fabrics. The bolt to be worn with such a waist is of medium width. Stones have been set In about every thing. It would seem. At present there are some very lovely single spoons of gold In the top of which are cut anethysts. The newest veil U of chif fon spotted with black velvet, in which the entire bead may be tied up as lit a bag. Checked silks in black and white, brown and white and blue and white, made very simply, are used extensive ly for morning gowns.' They have en tirely superseded the dark foulards, and some are trimmed very prettily with ribbon velvet or bands of plain taffeta. I'tisS a Canhlonn, Now. The latest cushion in the Gibson girl series shows her seated in a drawing room. A young man near by Is Mt Ing his lips by way of fortifying his courage, while the rest of the com pany is socializing on the other side of a large screen. Under this picture we are admonished in the plainest of lettering to find the girl who Is going ' to be kissed within ten minutes. The best part of this puzzle picture Is that you don't have to stand on your bead to solve It. furthermore, the char acters are of normal size, which is more than can be said of the mix-up of Llllputlans and Brobdlgnaglans In most puzzle pictures. flnrtnony In tho Kitchen. What bride a few years ago would have thought to harmonize the hues of her kitchen walls with the color of her cooking utensils? Yet that is what a young bride has been able to do in furnishing the little kitchen of her snug fiat The walls of the kitchen had been painted light blue, and enameled ware of the selfsame hue was bought. The effect is charming, for frying pans, mixing spoon, basins, stewpans and all, with their dainty white linings, are disposed about the apartment 'to the best advantage. Philadelphia Record. The Kleetrle Lump. The electric lamp has kept pace with the development along artistic lines that is apparent in all branches of household fitments. The incandes cent lamp is now admitted to the din ing table, although until recently the Incandescent burner was thought to shed too pitiless a glare to be desir able for dining table illumination. The glare has been Ingeniously softened, and at a recent dinner the electric lamp, which occupied the centre of the table was the most effective decor ation that could be Imagined. The pedestal and supporting column were ot silver gilt, around which were grouped charming female figures in Flench bisque. The incandescent burners were shaded by glass globes In soft hue of rose; these in turn were veiled with numberless strings of pearls in rose-white tint, and the light shone through with a softened glow that was delightful. Brooklyn Eagle. (Statue for tho Table. Nowadays the fashion is to serve a different type of glass with each course at dinner, and thereby display the varying beauties of shape, coloring and engraving of one's lavish store. Some hostesses, who do not go quite to these lengths, have adopted differ ent sets of glass to match their various sets of china, and a new and fashion hie painted glass tor dinner parties has come recently into use. The crystal Is very bright and thin, end adorned with a green, red or blue band at the edge ot the bowl and on the edgo of the foot, and tho owner's Initial and some heraldic device are I tinted on the side of every piece. This Is highly ornamented, but care must be taken not to use red-banded glass with a blue china service, elso there will be anarchy In the carefully elaborated decoration of the table. Furthermore, it ' Is not considered tasteful, to say the least, to use one set of glass straight through a meal. Philadelphia Inquirer. German Crisps Cream one cupful of butter; add gradually two cupfuls of sugar, three eggs beaten until thick, the grated rind and Juice of one lemon and flour to make a dough to roll out; roll out on a floured board, roll quite thin; cut in squares or oblong shape; brush with white of egg beaten; sprinkle with granulated sugar; chopped or shredded nuts or candled lemon peel; bake In a moderate oven a delicate brown. Chicken a la Maryland Singe, drain and wash quickly one or two chickens; split them down the back: springle with salt and pepper; dip each half In beaten egg, then In bread' crumbs; put them In a buttered dripping pan and pour over a little melted butter; place In the oven and roast tor 20 minutes; remove to a hot platter and pour over one cupful of cream sauce made with one tablespoon of butter, one tablespoonful ot flour, one cupful of milk, salt and pepper; serve small corn fritters. Currant Flummery This Is nice for tS-eakfast on a hot morning, as it Is just tart enough to give the zest one desires. Add two cups of granulated sugar to the strained Juice ot two quarts of marhed red currants. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Take one pint ot this juice and pour over a pint ot ground rice and blend until per fectly smooth. Boil the remainder of the Juice In the cereal kettle, and Into this Btlr carefully the thickened juice. Cook until thick and then pour Into molds large or small and set on the ice to stiffen. Out Horn for Many Year. Mrs. Belinda Bell Adams of War rensvllle, Ohio, born In 1811, Is still living In the house to which uhe went as a bride in 1829. Baltimore American. IMPROVED VEGETABLES. MARVELOU3 GROWTHS MADE TO ORDER BY CARDENERS. Beittea Tomato, Climbing fnrninber, qnaltlni Mm Mean anil Other Mar ! M hplnt Hie Strawberrl The Hninbla Onion Marie frond. Never In the history of market gar dening have such line fruits and vege tables been seen In the local marke.s as now, and all because the man with the hoe at least he who helps to supply the big cities with their dally supply of fresh garden truck Is more wideawake to the demands of the hour than his city brother gives him credit for being, says the New York Mail and Express. If one were to compare the flavor, substance, appearance and general good qunlLles of the vegetables sold here 10 years ago with what are of fered in the markets today, the differ ence would bo striking, even to those who knew llttlo of such matters. Probably no more striking example of the progress made In the time mentioned can be found than Is fur nished by the tomato. Hare is an humble product of the garden, be loved by all men who have a proper fondness for good things, that has been so changed and Improved of late as hardly to know Itself. And It Is strange, yet true, that the Improve ment In tho tomato has been due large ly to the discovery of that popular ail ment, appendicitis. When the 'surgeons first established the fact that appendicitis and colic were not ono and the same thing, and began to operate for the relief and cure of pppendlcltls, there was much discussion as to the cause of the then dread affliction. The conviction soon became general that it was duo to tho presence of foreign bodies in the ap pendix, such as fruit and vegetable eeeds, and, thereupon, the doom of the tomato was sounded because of the many seeds contained In It. There were large and small and highly-colored tomatoes In the market, but ail were full of seeds. Here then, was a serious situation confronting the big tomato growers, as well as gardeners generally. There were then and there are still men who make a specialty of tomato growing, and who originate all the new varieties that are offered to the growers. These did not despair, but said If thu public wouldn't eat a to mato with seeds in It they'd grow a tomato without seeds. And they did. Not entirely without seeds, to be sure, but with so few Beeds In them as to Justify the assertion of the originators that they had produced a seedless to mato; whereupon the tomato was re stored to popular favor. But that was not the only change made In the tomato. Without the great number of needs they were found to be far sweeter In flavor. This flavor was retained while the size and solidity were Increased, un til today there are tomatoes running up to six Inches In diameter, from two to four pounds each In weight, that are as solid as a piece of meat, defy all sorts of weather, that last from the first picking until the com ing of frost and of which as high as 20 tons have been taken from a single acre. The tomato specialists are Just ly proud of their accomplishment. But improvement In other directions has been just as great and often with out such good reason. Many gardeners objected to the old way of growing Lima beans. They didn't want to go to the expense of cutting poles and sticking them In tho ground for the beans to run upon, and It took tho beans a long while to mature, anyway; so they turned out a bush Lima bean, which grows only two feet high, needs no support and upon which tho beans mature quickly and in great quanti ties. While they were at It they origi nate'.! a now lot of string beans which were ready for the market all of two weeks earlier than the usual kinds, which were really stringless and so tender they snapped when not picked carefully. That wan anof".vor big stride. Then the men who know more about strawberries than most folks could dream of thought they'd see what ihoy could do. Fir.it, they Increased the size of the berries until they had shown specimens almost as big a3 one's fist, with whole fields averaging a dozen to a full quart measure. Then they Improved the flavor of the big berries until they were as sweet as the wild berry. After that varieties were Introduced that were earlier than others, which extended the season for tars 'fruit. Not satisfied with that, a progressive Frenchman brought forth a strawberry that is a marvel In Its way, for It produces three crops In a year and is practically ever-bearing until killed by frost. These berries can be picked in the spring, In the summer and again In the autumn. France was so proud of this achieve ment that the originator received a certificate from one of the big socie ties. In the meantime the fellow whose hobby is a perfect cucumber waj not Idle. Some one objected to the Irregu lar shape of the cucumber, and so the cucumber' sharp grew a strain of cu cumbers that were of a uniformly per fect shape and deep green In color and seemed about perfect until another grower thought there were too many protuberances warts, the growers call them on these latest ones. So b went to work and grew them so there were very few warts on them, and the spines, or ribs, were ail even and at regular distances apart. Another ' cucumber man thought they were mighty fine on the outside, but ought to have fewer seeds, and so he grew ' them with fewer seeds. It seems that ' nothing more could be done when an enterprising "Jap." probably disliking to see cucumbers spoiled by lying on the ground, placed bfjfore the world a climbing variety that grows on poiea and which, like the Frenchman's strawberries, bears continually until killed by fruyt. The struggle for supremacy In the various lines continued, and slowly, like the tortoise, the humble onion pressed forward for recognition. Spain produced a large onion that was fine grained, of mild flavor, and almost white. The native onion growers thought It was fine and that they could turn out something just as good. If not better. They tried tflJ succeeded, and during the proper season the fine, big white onions on sale In all the fancy fruit stores, which the deal ers call Spanish onions, are the re sult of that effort. They are Spanish onions only to the uninitiated buyer, for they have been no nearer Spain than Long Island or New Jersey, where they are grown. Despite the fact that these onions are often 15 inches around, and grow so freely that close to 2000 bushels of them have been taken from a sin gle acre, they are so mild and tender that any one can eat them without Ill-effect. Physicians regard them with much favor, because they induce a natural sleep, and patients who could by no means eat the ordinary, strong onion can partake of them freely. As it Is, the home-grown product today excels all the onions brought from abroad, not excepting the tar-famed onions of Bermuda. What has been told here simply furnishes an Idea of the great prog ress made In this humble line of In dustry. Every vegetable on the mar ket has been Improved so greatly that the consumer would make a great fuss were they compelled to go back to what they thought was so fine 10 years ago. It Is clear that the "brother of the ox" Is doing his part, even It he does It quietly. QUAINT AND CURIOUS. ' The village church at Upleatham, North Yorkshire, is claimed to be the smallest In England. The church dates back to 900 years. Some of the tombstones in the graveyard are dated 1550. If all the land planted In corn In the United States this year were massed, the area would exceed the British Isles, Holland and Belgium combined, or four-fifths of the area ot France or Oermany. The authorities of Lisbon recently took a strange step to relieve the Port uguese capital of loafers and. beggars. These children ot leisure were gath ered together, dumped into a steamer and deported to the Portuguese col onies in Africa. The mayor of Steubenvllle, Ohio, has adopted a unique method, of settling what he calls "petty clothesline" quar rls between women. He has estab lished a "fighting room," In which he locks the women who quarrel over back yard fences. After an hour's abuse of each other they run down. Then they Invariably become recon ciled. It Is claimed that the largest chains ever mado in the United States for se curing ship's anchors were made in four sections, or "shots," each com prising 900 feet, so that the total length of the combined chains li near ly 4300 feet. Each link averages not less than ICS pounds weight, an aver age of about 100 pounds to the running foot, making the total weight ot each anchor section nearly DO t;ns. Wiien tho chains wore tested, the testing ma chines broke at a strain of 500,000 pounds, but none of the links were affected. When the Inhabitants of Sldestrand, near Cromer, Eng., awoke one morning a few weeks ago they were surprised to find that a largo portion of a cliff on the seashore had sunk Into the sea. Thl'ity thousand tons of earth had fallen and with It the wall and a portion of the graveyard of old St. Michael's church. The ancient church tower itself is now In Jeopardy, for during the day following the slip a further portion of the cliff crumbled away, leaving only a few ' feet be tween tha tower and Us edijes. A grewsome feature of the slide was the unearthing of many long burled coffins and the scattering ot human remains far and wide. Wllliaiinlnw'a Hot. The Grand Duke of Stxe-Welmar, who is the next heir to Queen Wil hclmlna, is a wealthy young prince. He is twenty-six years of age and unmar ried. In Germany, It Is said, be has a reputation for "bulls" worthy of an Irishman. Once while visiting a pub lic school he noticed two boys of strik ing similarity in appearance. "Why, what a remarkable like cess!' be exclaimed. "Those lads must be twins!" "Yes, your Royal Highness," re marked tho principal, and beckon ed the two youngsters to him. "Ah, my son," said the Prince, plac ing his baud on the head of one of them, "what is your namo?" "Heinrich.' "And how old are you?" "Six." "And you?" he said, turnlnf to the other boy. On another occasion his kind hoart took pity on a murderer sentenced to Imprisonment for life, and he proposed to remit the "last three years of the ectence." Tit-Bits The butterfly invariable . goes to sleep bead-downward on a stem of giass, with 1U wings tightly folded. New York City. Mercerized glng hams are produced In a large variety of colors nnd designs, making Ideal fabrics for summer waists nnd sep arate Mouses. They retulu their blgh lustre after they have been laundered, and are often elaborately trimmed with ribbons or laces. The Illustration shorn a Gibson waist of Du Barry pink gingham, with a vest of white linen embroidered In pink. It is made over a fitted body lining thet closes In the centre front In the back three pleats extend from riNor DiBsoN waist. BLOUSE ETON WITH CAPE COLLARS. SEVEN GORED SKIRT. shoulder to belt in V-sbaped outline. There is also ono deep pleat that ex tends over the shoulders to belt In V-slinpcd outline. These pleats are stitched and flatly pressed. The skirt Is made with seven well proportioned gores fitted smoothly around the waist and over the blps without darts. The fullness at the centre back is arranged in an under lying pleat at eacli side of th? closing These pleats are flatly pressed. The flounce Is circular, shallow in front and graduating to a considerable depth at the back. It flares widely at the lower edge, providing that graceful sweep which stamps all fashionable skirts this season. Narrow bands of white finish the seams and a broader one 'covers the Joining of the flounce nd skirt. Stylish waists in this mode may be made of pique, linen, cotton cheviot and madras, with braided or embrolded vests. It Is also appropriate for French flannel, peau crepe, satin, Henrietta or albatross. To make the waist In the medium size will require two yards of thirty six Inch material, with five-eighths yard of all over embroidery Smart Outing Suit. Very smart outing suits are made of heavy wash fabrics In strong blues, pinks, reds and greens. Tbey are usually accompanied by fine white shirt waists, and trimmed with stitched bands In tailor effect. The costume shown In the large drawing Is developed In bright red cotton cheviot and trimmed with straps of white linen. The Eton Is ad Justed with shoulder and underarm seams, the back fitting smoothly from nock to belt. The fronts fasten In the centre with small pearl buttons. Four backward turning tucks on each side are stitched down below the bust, the fullness forming a stylish blouse over the white kid belt Triple shoulder capes complete the neck and extend ore? the sleeves, glv- si ng a becoming breadth to the figure. They nre nil edged with narrow white bands. The sleeves nre shaped with Inside seams only, fit the upper arm closely and nre full ot the lower edge, where they are arranged on deep white cuffs. The.e are finished with narrow turn overs. The vest is permanently attached to the right lining nnd closes invisibly on the left. The fronts nre pleated to correspond with the backs nnd blouse stylishly over the hlnck velvet belt. The plain collar Is finished with a lace protector and black cravat The sleeves are regulation bishop models, shaped with Inside seams. They fit the upper arm closely nnd flare at the lower edge, where they are ar ranged on narrow cuff. Tbesi are trimmed with lace turnovers to match the protector. The mode may be developed in eta mine, nun's veiling, rnnva. wool gren adine or bnrcge. with tnffetn or uioiru bauds for trimming. Severely Plain, Beit StylUt). Severely pin In. but stylish, is this shirt wnlst of blue nnd whlto striped brllllnntfne. It Is mounted on a glove fitted fenther-lioned lining that closes In the centre front. The back Is plain across the shoul ders nnd drawn down close to the belt where the fullnoss is adjusted in tiny plents. Three deep tucks ore arranged In the full back and fronts, extending around the body and providing a smart tailored finish. The fronts are fastened Invisibly un der a box pleat of white satin that is decorated with small turquoise liuttons applied in clusters of three. There H no fullness at the neck, but the fronts blouse over the black satin belt. A! stock and tie of the same material provide a stylish finish. The bishop sleeves are shaped wfta inside seams only, fit the upper arm closely and are gathered at the lower edge where the fullness la adjusted, on narrow wristbands. These are com pleted with flaring cuffs of satin t match the box pleat. ' The mode may be developed in heavy, wash fabrics or flannel, Henrietta, taffeta, peau de sole and challies, with contrasting material for collar, culls and box pleats. When the waist is all made ot one fabric these parts are usually machine stitched. To make the waist in the medium sice will require two yards of thirty. TULOB-MADX SHIBT WAIST. six-lueu material with flve-eihth yards ot all-over embroidery. v: V
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers