WOMAN'S WHAK. "What Fashion and Fancy Say It Should Contain. Costumes Tor Day Wear Styles for t he Rising Generation. (Mnoul New York Fashion Letter.) It'i distracting in una sense at least, Ilist early apring always brings with it tlm fashion for the summer. Wbiln luwn nml laces may give us n shiver How they suggest tho coming month when a chill would bo mi agreeable chungc. Tlm spring of 'H7 will not be an epoch-marking period iu thfl gene alogy of costumes; doortitr'n from tlm previous year being neither pro nounced nor material. And yet, cer tnin modifications nro observed that nre Hiiro to distinguish tho "'07 BITNSINO I'OSUME IX l'fltl'I.K l.VKII'.S' fl.oTH WITH A TIIIAI MIXU OF SAltKOW HII.K 1IIIAIH. Model." However, in these alight changes there in no caimo for regret for, if there ever was a time iu tliu history of dross when women might bii content with what they have it in iiow, when fashion lias reached porfec tiou in nil that goes to constitute graceful outline, harmonious coloring, becoming effect and pretty contrast. Tiio principal moditlcations aro iu the narrowed skirts, the widely flaring HKirt being a thing of tho past, and iu tho Hiimll sleeves, which are both com fortable and becoming, since there is no limit to tho variety in dosign, and therefore can bo 111 ml o to kMiit each uml every figure. Three distinct styles of skirt arc prophesied for the coming season. These are the plain skirt, just full enough to insure a pretty curve, the akirt flounced to tho waist, and the skirt which is slightly draped nail moderately trimmed. (towns for street wear are most in demand just at this moment uml variety ia the ono thing noedful since luncheons, musicals, tens and shopping expeditions ore the proper order of the day. Tailor-made gown prevail, dark unassuming ones being chosen fur suoppiug und tho more fanciful model in delicate tints doing service for social occasions. One of Mrs. John Jacob Astor's newest tailor-made gowns is au entire study in stem green. Tho material is a soft broudulotb aud the "suit" con sists of a plain skirt, cut very full iu the back, but with no suggestion of a flare, aud a single-breasted otou trimmed with black silk braid. A small green velvet toque completes the custuiue aud carries out the color cliuuie of this most barmouious toilette. Another stunning costume that would prove a worthy rival to Mrs. Astor's is developed in purple ladies' cloth. The skirt is perfectly pluiu and the jacket which is quite short is left opeu at the front to display a soft full vest of white sutiu. A trimming of uurrow silk braid on the front and bnek of the jacket make an exceed ingly handnume garniture. The collar aud lushed revers of tbis jacket give it a peculiarly graceful finish, uud there i nothing to confine it to the figure, yet every ourved line of the waist and back is shown to ad vantage. The gown just doscribert was soon at the lust musical givou at the Waldorf, and as the wearer was young aud pretty, her poke bonnet made u most littiug crown. The "poke" wua made of purple velvet, faced with black tnllo finely lib I r red, and tlm trimming consisted of large blank plumes and artistically arranged bunches of velvet pansies. For this season of the year Ihiire la no material o suitable na cloth for the tin) woll-drensed woman whau ahe passes tho portal of her own door bo fore nix o'clock in the evening. Hho may wear silk or velvet, but it will bo at the oxpcne of ber tnste. Her tailor-mado gown may be of the most delicious shades of blue, red, purple, tan or brown; in fact, just such a dress na enn bo worn during tho latter part of April and in May. IJecansn it is tailor-made, it need not necessarily look severe, for all tho newest, styles havo almrt opnu jackets with which can bo worn dainty lllmy fronta of laco or cli ill' ii. A becoming fail of tho hour in tlio long senrves of chifl'ou which am wrapped nbout, tho throat ONE OF MUM. JOHN JAI'OII ARTOfl'H NEWEST TAtt.Olt-MAIi: OOWNH -A HITIIV IN ST KM OltEEN. and tied iu a great spreading bow miller tho chin. This ia usually worn with an open jacket ou the stylo of tho ono depicted on this page. Many of tho fastidious "wee" ladies' between tho ages of eight and sixteen years, wear velvet and silk frocks or coats, but very pleasing littlo drossos iu much less expensive materials nro also worn. Serge suits Hindu iu sailor fashion nnd trimmed with brightly colored braids mnko smart frock for the smaller girla, while coat and skirt costumes seem to be preferred by young ladies of four teen to sixteen yours, Tho latest decroo from Paris says that pearl gray gloves nro newer than KEIiOE BOTH IX HAILOU FASHION MAKE 8MAUT i'KOOKS Full THE BMALI.F.U OUII.H. the white which have been worn for the past seaion. Thi certainly is welcome news, for white glove besides beiug extravagant inake the bands look largo, while the gray tint has a tendency to reduce the apparent size. White satin stock collar are worn by French women with cloth, silk or velvet shirt waists in place of the linen ones so common here. Satin of any color may be substituted for the white. The coat which outlines the figure at the sides, IHs it olosoly at the back and is loose ia front, is the favorite stylo, Collar band with high standing ruffs und Uuttlouiuut-shsped pieces, wired X to stand out well from tho neck, have lieoonie a fettled fushiou i but a novelty is the use of violet to cover I the tabs, and other small artificial flower arranged iu a wreath around tho edge. Ulaok handkerchiefs are announced a tho latest erse. An acceptable modillcntion of this fancy, howovor, is a white handkerchief with a black bor tier embroidered with a wreath of tiny flower. Handkerchiefs of palo pink, mauve, yellow, blue and even purple are among the season's novelties, and they nro embroidered with white in itials and trimmed around with laco; but the daintiest of all is a puro whito handkerchief sheer and flue, with a flight of butterflies embroidered in one corner nnd leaching well into tho centre. The costumes illustrated herewith were made lv the National Cloak Company of New York. rtliiiette of the Hhite House, When tho president and his wife drive out, tho president sits on tlm riglit-hiind neat nnd his wife on the left. If there nro others in the carriage, whether ladies or gentlemen, they must sit with their backs to the, homos. When Mrsi Cleveland was II rut mar ried she tried tho experiment of plac ing hr mother opposite tho presideut nnd herself iu the presidential laudaii, bur tho people laughed at it so im moderately, and professed to think Mrs. Folsom (as she was then) to be tlm miiid, tlmt it was speedily dropped. When tho president's wife drive aliino she sits in tho right-hand corner tho place of honor. The lady of tho White limine can- not sot foot within those splendid lions -a in Washington whoso flagstaff mark tho foreign embassy or legation, She could lAt go without tho presi dent, and as an embassy or legation is technically a part of tho country it represents, tho president could not go, so that she never sees tho inside of a diplomntio house ns long us alio pre sides at tho executive mansion. Tho president dines only at cabinet houses, und his wife cannot dine anywhere without him. President Arthur dined with tlm judges of the supremo court and with senators, but as ho had no wife, tho whole, system was very much simplified for him. Tho president's wife may, if shu chooses, go to lunch eou where there nro no gentlemen, or to teau, both being regarded as K'riet- ly informal ; but tho danger of giving nflViiH.) by accepting one invitation and declining another is so great, that it is seldom or never risked. One on the Cyclist. A young American who was biey cling in Southern Franco was pushing his wheel up a steep hill, when he overtook a pennant with a donkey cart who was rapidly becoming stiiilcil, though the little donkey was doing his best. The benevolent wheelman, put' ting his left hand ugiiinst tho back of tho cart and guiding his wheel with COAT AND SKIHT COSTUMES FOH YOI NQ LADIEH OF FOUIITEEN TO SIX TEEN YEAItri, the other pushed so hurd that the donkey, taking fresh courage, pulled hi lend up to the top successfully The aiimmit reached the peasant burst into thanks to bis benefactor. " t was very good of you, monsieur," be said "I should never iu the world have got up the bill with only oue donkey. Oil, the Dear liii l. Dora (sweetly) Fred didn't blow his braiu out because , vuit jilted biiu the other ingot ; uu came right over und proposed to me. Maud (mper-sweetly) -Didn't bo? Thou ho must have got rid of his biuius tome other way. Tit-Bits, VIF.I.H TIKIl IMlKIt TUP. nil IN, Tho veil is an import a lit, adjunct to tlm theatre toilet, ns hils am not correct for such wear, mid tho elabor ately arranged coilYurn is touched only by this filmy n flair, which must be composed of very linely woven silk or 'tnbroidered chiffon. An inch wide edgo of real lace adds greatly to its liecuiniugiiens, and the veil should be long enough to fall loosely over the fucu and tin beneath tho chin. It should be removed be fore entering the stall. I, Air. P.U1ISIAX CONFECTION. One of tho Intent Parisian confec tions is a bolero of black clulton that can be slipped on over any bodice, to lend an air of festivity to a toilet. At tho back tho chiffon is put ou full. w ith six rows of shirring that draws it down tight to tho linings. The shir- ling at tho front is pushed together to make six pulT-i. The two full bouil lons of biack clutVoii are placed at the irinliole mid fall nearly to tie elbow. lilaek velvet ribbon nnd bras buttons trim the bolero. When worn with a white canvas cloth gown that had a black velvet belt tho effect was decid edly now ami charming. Theso are tho little things that make house dresses elegant to look upon, yet cost almost nothing. Chicago Times-IIer- aid. HUE MENDS KHOF.S. Mrs. Pollock of Pittston, Pen ii., mends shoes. Her husband was n cobbler, and she frequently assisted him through a rush. When she was left dependent upon her owu resources nlu! bravely picked up the lant anil awl, and continued her husband's buni- nesK. This new departure n woman cobbler created much consternation iu tiio neighborhood. This dismay resulted in a decided decreaso iu pat ronage, lint Mrs, Pollock knew the way to n woman's heart, nnd offered to mend shoes nt bargain rates. When she cut down tho rutes tlxed by her hiisbuud, the women ventured to try her. Kho turned out such good work and tho orders were so promptly lliled nt low prices, that she soon had a large trade. Sho now employs a mini to assist her, mid earns from $'2f) to $25 a week. Now York Journal. A BTUF.ET (IOWN. A stylish gown seen on the street tho other day was of flue black ladies' cloth. The skirt was perfectly plain and made with overlapping seams. The black, tight fitting coat bodice, which also showed the seams over lapped, opened in front over a littlo whito vest. This vest was trimmed on each side of the opcuiug with a nar row soroll of blaok braid, and set closely down the front were two rows of tiny black cloth buttons. Tho col lar was a black stock, aud a black satiu tie was bowed in front. Ou each side, at the top of the stock, were two overlapping points of the white, with the scrollwork of the black braid. The neck was finished with a frill of creamy luce, which half stood andhnlf fell over points aud stock with a soft ening effect which was becoming. The coat bad a turn over collar of black velvet in the back, uud the bot tom ended iu a regular narrow cont tail, upon which were tho a;nall but tons. The sleeves were long, with a square tailor finish at tho wrist, and were also trimmed with the buttous. New York Press. MUST CONSIDER THE IININOS. ' Whutever else we negleut now, we must, perforce, oousider the liuiuRS, and uowuere ure they hotter seen iu the skirts of day gowu than at the fasbiouuble skating rinks, where every body elects to dress well. The white I satiu bodices, either oovered with jijt or embroidered or veiled with jettml net, seem to be oonsidured a suitable nooompaniment to all aorta of skirts. The huts to accompany these are either largo and picturesque, or sailors iu velvet, with wreaths of flowers, or re placed by the moat fusoinutiug toques, iu whioti fur always plays a part Very notable indeed lire the aigrette uud quills; und jewels that are roul and others that are not, accompany the feather. A few courageous women weur white shoes, but they eaa hardly be said to be a success with tho dark skirts, however bright tho lining. The narrowest colored leather belts are worn, or gold gilou belts with multi. colored enamelled buckles. Lovely mantles of fur, or trimmed with fur, are put on when the skating is over; and sometimes a short sable jacket, with a full nml shallow basque, belted with chine ribbon, nnd displaying vel vet sleeves, figures on tho ice. I'.ro cades, satin and velvet, show large square sable collars, often mingled with fine and priceless luce. Henlskin cape have the most delicate flowered pompadour silk linings. Now York Hun. HHAIIIIT IIOMCKS MAOR NF.W. The silk bodice that has 'done ser vieo all the winter ia apt to show signs of wear by the time spring ar rives. Frequently it ia not worn out entirely, and it economical owner cannot afford to discard it. Yet the sight of it has grown tiresome to her imthotio eyes, and it is a positive weariness to the flesh to wear it Then it is that "all over" embroidery, chif fon, moussolino de soie and kindred fabrics corno to ber aid, aud, at trifl ing expense, help her to transform the old bodice into a new one. For tho ordinary street or house waist that has grown old, nothing is better as a rejuvenutor than all-around embroidery on grass linen. Make a broad collar that stands out over the shoulders. Attach to it a Straight baud for tho back and front. Add revrrr, ami behold, tho old waist is hidden. Or, make a bolero of the embroidery. F.dgo it with a narrow r u Die, and you havo a quaint nnd dainty waist, Slill another method of transform ing old waists consists iu making col lars, cnlYs uud box pleats for the buck and front of colored satin, under coarse luce. For instance, a brown sill; waist that had pin points of nas turtium red ill it, whs beautified by Ili i addition of theno adjuncts iu the same shade of red under heavy ecru embroidery. Other waists nro covered, except the sleeves, with loono blouses of loose, openwork embroidery. This in a lavoritu way of freshening up evening and theatre bodices, except tlmt chiffon or gauze is used with t lie in instead of tho heavier materials. TEN" YEARS ON ONE PIBCB. The glory of Vienna is tho govern ment art school of embroidery, tho classes of which are under the direc tion of Mine. St. George, perhaps the most accomplished designer aud needle woman in the world, says a writer in tho Contemporary Kevicw. The entire course of instruction, whioli is quite free, lusts five years, but many pupil leave after two or three years, especially ladies who do not in tend to make urt work n profession, and aro satisfied with knowing the rudiments of either lacework or art embroidery, for every year has its special course. Every year' course has its special room and instructress, and the pupils cannot go from oue to the other until the year expires. The pupils of the last year's course were busily mending a magnificent cinopy, the work of the E npress Mitriu Ther esa. An idea mny bo formed of the mag nitude of the task when it is said that ten girls under Mme. St. George's superintendence bad beeu working at it for ten years already, and she ex pected it would take two yours more to complete it. Every kind of em broidery, including Persian, Indian lupmese, Turkish, etc., is done here, a u a l was untoiusuotl to see more beiiiitu'ul sample of the "iiaudnty," or spider's web, made by the Gnsrani womeu of Parsquay, and rarely seen iu Lurope, This lane i made of the fibre of the aloe, und is so Hue that it is made inside the huts, with the door shu', so that not the least breath oi wind oau touch it. I was still more sur prised when Mme. St. George assured me that the sample before me was not really Paraguayan, but copied by ber principal nssistuut. This ludy bus beeu equally suocuKsfiil in oopyiugold Vi netian, Isisb, 'lliussela, Houiton, etc, -in fact, every kind of lace uf ull countries. FOR FARM A XI) UAHUM. risr. laws pt.Attr. The hydrangea ia one of the finest of plants for lawn decoration. A large specimen I a beautiful objeot, and will last two or three month ia bloom. It is to be kept over winter in a cool, light cellar, whore the tem perature is about at freezing, or not far above. Very little water is needed, but tho wood must not be allowed to shrivel. When the plant is intended for outside decoration it should re main in tho cellar nntil about the middle of April nnd thon placed out of doors in somo sheltered corner, and allowed to make progress with the season like other flowering shrubs. It will then stay in blossom all sum mer. i.p.r mR hoiisr nntNK. It lined to be the rule, to keep horse from drinking at noon or night after they had been working through the forenoon or afternoon until they hail enten their feed and cooled down. This was considered necessary in or der to prevent injury from taking cold water whilo the system was heated, lint this is cruel to horses, as they cannot eat what they should if they arc parched with thirst. Tho better way is to give each borso in the mid dle of tho forenoon a pail of water into which a small quantity of oatmeal has been stirred. This will refresh and invigorate tho horse without doing any injury, and will prevent him from being injured by drinking freely at noontime. The drink, being nourishing, rallies tho strength and enables the animal to do a greater (mount of work without failure. The Silver Knight. TO MAKR THF. PARH PAY. At the lilootningburgh (Ohio) Farmers' Institute, Mr.John Larunor, in the course of au address said : One of the greatest hindrances to profitable farming is a desire to go too fust at first and to purchase thiugs we sould get along without. Tho obliging agents tell yon that you need not trouble about tho money, your note will do just as well, but you will find that you must pay big interest for the privilege of going in debt, and you are always nt a dis advantage to your creditor. Have tho money ready to pay, and you can then make your half of the bargain. Take good care of your farm and your stock, and they will furnish tho money for necessary outlays. I will just say to young men who expect to make fanning their occupa tion that they may expect hard work and plenty of it, and will not need to join any baseball nine, for exercise; but if tlioy take care of their health and habits it will not hurt tboin, for I have tried it for over sixty years, and am today a well-preserved man. I can truly say that with the blessing of our heavenly Father upon the labors of myself and family I have made farming pay, aud what I havo dono others can do. FAIIM AND OAIIDKN NOTF.1. Currants aud gooseberries require lots of well-rotted manure worked down in the soil around them with good cultivation. Salt is necessary for keeping the sows in health. It assists digextion. is good for the milk supply, uud is laid to prevont worms. Keap close watch that the mice and rabbits do not injure the trees. Keep the snow tramped around the tree uud protected with lath or wire screen up us high us u rabbit can reach. See that the bens have water at least twice a day this cold weather. They will not take it iu the form of ice, so it must be renewed in their pan at trough as often as it freezes. A scant yield uf miik when high prices prevail is something that should net ambitious duirymeii thinking. He who ha to buy ull his feed for the mouths of winter cau Uot possibly make as ranch mouey us ho who, with forethought, has provided a large sup ply of enailuge. Added to all the other worth of a crop of rye is tbe unsurunee that uu early sown crop will help the piga through the full and winter nud give them n wholesome green bite iu the early spring. It will repay much more thau the cost of seeding, and leaves the ground iu good shape. Gardeners uow suy that fumigation, unless very light, is an injury to plants. It is uot the uiuotiuu of the smoke, but its heat, that does the damage. Even those that do not show the effects at oucu ure apt to be stuuted, iu growth for a short time. Smoke lightly nud often, if smoke must be resorted to. Heliptrope especially U very easily injured by smuku.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers