JAPANESE GUILDS. TRADES ORGANIZATIONS ARB NUMEROUS IN JAPAN. A System Introduced by the Dated Unlike Worklngmen' Union In Other Lands Story Teller and Blind Shampoocrs. WHILE there are no labor unions in Jspan, writes William E. Curtis in the Chicago Record, there nre Very many guild;, composed of mer chants and manufacturers end others engaged in the snme lino of business who have organized for thoir mutual advantage and to control so far as they can the trade to which they he long. They hnve existed ever sinee the seventeenth century and were copied from the Dutch, who came to the empire duriug that period and ex ercised a very powerful influence upon industry and commerce. In fact, the Dutch were never entirely expelled from Jniian. The Dutchmen of Japan exercised wholesome ititlnonce upon tho .Tapauero and educated a large num ber of thnir Young men. They fur nifhed the only social and intellectual stimulant Japan hadand a few modern ideas filtered through them into the empire. Among other things they A JAPANESE taught the Japanese the nselessness of dragons' teeth and snake skins as a pharmacopoeia and gave them a knowl edge of anatomy and the rudiments of medicine. European improvements npon the spindle and tho loom enme in that way. One finds a great many traces of the heavy Dutch civilization throughout Japan. The guild is one of them, and it now extends from the bankers and the manufacturers as far as the massage operators, the story tellers and the thieves. In Japanese cities and villages about v sunset you begin to hoar doleful whistles in the streets. One will come from somewhere near you, and pretty soon another from far away, and if yon ohooee yon can trace them to blind men, who walk in the middle of the road, each with a bamboo staff in his hand, blowing his monotonous and melancholy signals to notify the pub lic of his whereabouts. These are the amma san, blind shampooers and mas sage operators, who occupy a con spionous place in Japanese social life. They rub the skin, knead the muscles and shampoo the hair, which are fa vorite treatments among the natives, and are credited with groat virtues in the Japanese hygiene. Custom immemorial has limited this occupation to the blind, and with tho exception of mnsio it is almost tho only one in which a person so aftlioted can engage, although, curiously enough, when a blind man is fortunate WEAVERS AT enough to be rich he is a money lender. The amma san are organized into one great guild, with their head quarters at Tokyo and Kyoto, and are divided into different gTades like wrestlers, being promoted from one to another after the passage of an ex amination and the payment of a fee, whioh goes into a eonimon treasury, and is need for charity among the guild. I do not suppose there if any law limiting this business to blind men, but no others are engaged in it. The extreme oare whioh the women of Japan take of their hair makes sham pooing popular, muoh more so than in ny other country, and massage treat ment has for eenturies been popular r remedy for rheumatism, lumbago and other pain and aohes. Their system differs, however, from the Swedish in that they work down instead of np the body, their theory being similar to that of the Indian medicine men, who free the pain out of the body by working it towwd the Anger and Another enrions gnlld ts that of the story tellers, called yose, who appear to be a relio of the days when books were scarce. They are similar in their methods and oconpation to the trou badours of the middle ages and the Zingari, who are even now found in the mountains of Austria, Italy and Spain. They have houses of enter tainment where people may go and lis ten to recitations of stories, tragedies and poems while they sit aronnd cross legged, drinking tea and smoking their long-stemmed metal pipes. Sometimes the yose has a book be fore him roAding a chapter of history or an act from one of tho great plays. Sometimes he reads a poem or tolls a story of mythological times or of mod ern events. When he comes to a par ticularly good point he claps together a couple of littlo slabs of wood, which are kept by him for that purpose. The latter nre also seen at the theatre. There is always a man sitting at tho extreme right of the stage with two small flat pieces of wood, and when ever the situation becomes critical or exciting he stimulates the intcreat of the audience by clapping them to gether. When the murderer is creep ing npon his victim, when the suicide is about to fall upon his sword or when the villain runs away with the heiress he makes a terrible raokettbat often drowns tho dialogue. The entertainments of the yoso are usually mixed. There may be a poem TEA nOUSE. from a Japanese Tennyson, an extract from the plays of a Japanese Shakes peare, a chapter from a Japanese Ban croft or Froude, together with a few comio selections and a story of love and war. The recent war with China has caused a great boom in yose busi ness, for thoy kept the publio informed of the progress of events and the policy of the Government, and are now re citing the incidents of the campaign in China. The lesser yose are itiner ant and give their recitations npon the streets or in the tea houses, whore no fco is charged but a collection is taken np at intervals. The street yoio are usually accompanied by a samiscn player and a singer, perhaps two or three, aid you find them surrounded by crowds of coolies wherever you may go. The guild system includes all trades and occupations. The silk-growers and silk-buyers, the men who raise tea and those who sell it, the manufac turers of laoquer and cloisonne and porcelain, the weavers and spinners, the artists who decorate kakemonas or scrolls, the carpenter;, soreenmakers, confectioners, paper dealers, doctors, lawyers, merchants of all kinds, teach ers, and even preachers, have their guilds and meet at regular periods to discuss subjects of genoral interest and mutual importance. Among the mechanics and tradesmen these guilds are oiton extended to include life in surance or aid to those who are ill and THE LOOM. infirm, like onr mutual benefit socie ties of the United States. Assessment are made npon the living to pay the doctors who have attended the dead and the undertakers who have bnried them. Thus far the guide has not been used to any extent for the advanoement of wage or the regulation of working hour, for the reason that ninety-five per cent of the (killed labor in Japan is occupied in the home of the people and in a measure i independent of the condition that govern working people in other land. Up till five year ago faotoriea were almost unknown. The weaver had hi loom in hi own home and his wife and aons and daughters took their turns at it during the day. It had always been the custom for the children to follow the trade of the parent. The best poroelain and cloi sonne and laoquer work is done under the roof of humble cottages, and the compensation ha been governed usu ally by th quality of the pieoo pro dnoed. There we middltntn who boy for the eiport trade and merchant tor the local trade, and the workingman usually sells his wares to the same per A JAPANESE fcnAMPOOF.n. son. This has gone on for centuries. Asana, the weaver, sells his brocades to the grandson of the merchaut who bought his grandfather's products. When there is a large order, say for 1000 lacquer trays or 10,000 embroid ered shawls, the middleman is resorted to. When Mr. Moore, the silk buyer for Marshall 1 leld, comes over here to purchase his annual stock of Japanese goods he goes to a middleman, who places the order in small lots among tho people who have by long experi ence loarnnd to depend npon him, and as fast as they finish an order tbey send it in. Hometimes the middleman advances them money. They nsnally rnn an account with him, as tho plant ers in the Southern States do with their factors in the commercial oities. Ho furnishes thorn materials and some times littlo luxuries in the way of clothing or food, which are charged to their account. Daily Dulles ot an Empro.n, The Empress of flermnny rises early and breakfasts with tho Emperor every morning nt 8 o'clock. At 9 she is in the nursery superintending the baby's toilet, arranging with the nurse for the walks or drives to he taken by the children, and always decides what clothes are to bo worn by the young princes. At 10 o'clock the Empress sees her housekeeper and attends to tho menu for luncheon and dinner, al ways including one or two favorite dishes of her husband's. A few moments every morning aro spent in the linen-room, and not a sheet or a duster aro given out except under direction of tho Empress. At 11 she goes riding with the Em peror, or driving with two of her boys. Luncheon comes at 1 ; and all tho children except the baby are present at this meal, which is conducted with- BMPnESS OF ORRMAXt. out much ceremony. After luncheon the Emperor and Empress play with tne oniidren lor an nour. . The Empress receives from 3 till 5. and in this time considers charitable oases. There are sometimes as many as fifty guests invited to dinner, which is at 6 o'clock, and lasts an hour. One servant waits upon two persons, and every little detail ot the service is closely watched by the Empress. She goes every night with the Emperor to see the ohildren, and if there is the slightest illness among them she sit np all night and sees that the dootor a directions are carried out. In the nursery she wears a soft white flannel wrapper and a large apron. The Bite ol the Human Animal, The injurious effeot of the bite of unman beings is very forcibly illus trated amonor the members nt tha nn, lice force of the Twenty-eighth Dis trict. At present no less tban three of the patrolmen of that district are suffering from the poison injected into the system through having been bitten by refractory prisoner whom they had arrested. These bites.iwhile so far not attended with very serions results, have nevertheless been tha sonroe of considerable pain and sore ness to tne viotims. .Philadelphia Reoord. Thej Were Unto Him. "How veil dem rabbit know when a tinnier is arnnnd. TIaw Ann'k m knm OUt Of deb? holaa alrattv mmt " SHnW-OlkWOTld, . " FASHION'S WHIMS. FALL AND WINTER NOVELTIES IN WOMAN'S WEAR. Waist Trimmings Are OeMInc Elab orate How to Wear Veils--Styles In Jackets and Capes, WAIST trimmings nre grow ing more and more elab orate, if that were pos sible, until there is no tolling where this extreme will end. A new costume has an arrangement of fichu and drapery that illustrates the exoesses to which Ibis fashion is being carried. A narrow section of the ma terial extends over each shoulder from the waist line at the back to the bod ice point in front. This is laid in plaits that are caught down or pressed to hold them in plaoe. From the front of this plaiting long tabs fall al most to the hem of the skirt in front. Aronnd this and the waist section is a plaiting made extremely full and graduated. Over the shoulders it is about eight inohos wide and grows narrower to the waist line, wbero it is but about an inch and a half in width. The same order is observed in the tabs. At the lower portion the plait ing is very wide ; a large, loose bow is placed at the waist line in front and covers the meeting point of the plait ings that pass over the shoulders. This arrangement is made of taffeta silk and crepon, and is largo enough to almost entirely cover the waist and the tops of the Bleeves nearly to the elbows. Another waist trimming has donblo rullleiof taffeta silk on a wool ma terial. These rnflles are set in just over the Bhoulders, and are graduated to the waist line, where thoy form a surplice e fleet. Over these double rallies aro very wide pointed revera ot the dress fabric These revers are opened on the shoulder like a lapel, one point running in front of the sleeve, the other in the back. Another dress has the waist entirely covered with ruffles of very finely crimpled chiffon or crepe lisse. There is a velvet collar and velvet sleeves and belt, the thin ruffles veiling the entire figure with the exoeption of a single wide box plait of volvet that passe over the ruffles and is caught in at the waist line. HOW TO WEAB VEIL. There are many little details of fashion that the world at large knows not of, but of whioh it merely sees the effeot. To the woman who is always well gowned, says the New York Her ald, these same little details mean a great deal. There is a marked difference in how veils should be worn. They are no longer tied ao close aoross the faoe that the eyelashes protrude, but are loose and flowing. A box plait or gathered fulness at the top of the veil MOPES WAT TO WBAB A VEIL. ha been in vogue for some time, but the end have still Veen fastened tight. Mow only the upper part of the veil i fastened and th rest i al lowed to hug a it will, and if oari- NEWEST STYLE OF A FALL AND WINTER COSTUME. full arranged the folds will form a sort of jabot effect that is quite pretty. The embroidered cliifTon is the latest novelty, and the dark colors are preferred. The white, with black chenille dots, which has been so fash ionable and so blinding, is a triflo passe, but it is too becoming to go en tirely out of style. Veils are still worn long, to como below the chin, and are ns much a part of a oostnme as the hat itself. The plain mesh is preferred by some to the fancy dots, but both are adinia sable. Daiktt cape. Wee capes that are not altogether nnlike those of last season are to be stylishly worn in the theatre and oon- ' 111 I A FAinlONADT.B CAPE. cert room, and it is a dainty example of this sort of garment that is pre sented here. Of white gros grain, it Is composed of a aeries of panels out into points at tho lower ends and em broidered with tiny spangles in di agonal lines. The lower edgo is fin ished with an aocordipn plaited black mousseline de soie frill, and a very delicate pale blue silk lines the whole. Around the neck comes a full rnohe of blaok chiffon with long black ribbon ends. The aoonmpanying hat is of fancy jot with coronet crown, is trimmed with blaok aigrettes and black plumes, and is lined with the pale blue silk. t PLAID GOWKS. There seems to be quite a fancy for plaids of every description this season, and they certainly do brighten up the somber dark blues and browna and greens which so many women affoot just now. Of oonrse, the plaid is in troduced more in the way of timming and accessories than anything eUe. A whole plaid dress on a large woman always looks a little inoongruous. One of the prettiest waya to use plaid is in a blouse waist. But even that is too loud for a woman of more tban or dinary stature, so she has to oonfine her choice to bands of it. FLOWERS AND T BATHER IN BONNETS. Flowers, as well as feathers, appear on the winter bonnet, bnt in making a ohoioe one must consider exactly what wear will be given to the bonnet and whether bright-hued blossoms will harmonize with the hour and the toilette. The style of coiffure ha muoh to do with the arrangement of the bonnet oc the head. If the hair is parted the bonnet is plaoed a littlo further baokthan it is it either a pom padour or a bang is worn. BKIIITS OROW WIDER AND WIDER, Skirt continue to grow wider and wider, bnt their volume and weight are diminished by the faot that they are nnlined, save with the indispensa ble tllk lining. MARTHA, THE YI'ASDIERB. A Peruvian Woman Who Has Decern Famous as a Soldier From Lima oomos a portrait of a re markable Peruvian woman who has become a celebrity in the country from her bravery and attention to the wounded during the recent revolution ary campaign whioh culminated in the attack and capture of Lima on March ITtb, 18th and 19th last. To-day the name of Msrlha, the VI- Vandiere, who aooompanied the divis ion ot the coalition army nnder the command of Colonel Philip Ore, is a Household word in Lima. Martha i a woman of about thirty five years of age and of Indian blood. She is rothor tall for one of her race and notat'all bad looking. From first to last ainoe Colonel Ore enoamped in Lurin, abont twenty miles from Lima, Martha, in a brilliant uniform and mounted UARTRA, THE VrVANDIERR. on a splendid horse, was always to be teen when fighting was going on, lometimes at the front urging on the toldiers, at other times at the rear as listing the wounded. j During the fierce fighting at the en trance to Lima Martha was wounded by a bullet in the right foot. She, mortgaged a small ho&ko whioh she' owned in Collao, and when the coali tion foroes oommonoed what was vir tually the siege ot Lima she employed ' her little fund in the purchase of re volvers and other article. There were three days' tremendous Sghting in Lima, over 1000 men lying dead in the streets. About fifty per . sent, of the combatants engaged were placed hors de combat. By this it will be easily understood how the con Juot of Martha, the Vivandicre, has made her famous. Body Turned to Stone The bodios of four Chineso were ex humed at Columbus, Ohio, and plaoed In zino boxes to be shipped to China. Qreat consternation was caused wbon it was found that the body ot one of them, Me Lnng, who had embraced the Christian religion before he died, bad turned to stone. As the box provided for it was not half as long as the body, it became necessary to break the petrified corpse. To do this the Chinese in dulged in a tug-of-war with the corpse, breaking the legs, arms and head off in that way. Sun Franoisoo Chronicle. Oldfst Yacht in the World. The accompanying illustration is made from a photograph by Emile Brngsoh-Bey, of an ancient Egyptian boat, tho original being found in the oourse of excavations conducted by A YACHT OV 5000 TEARS AOO. M. de Morgan and Meir, and now at Oizeh. The sails of this boat were probably not made of ramie cloth, and it is evident that they do not set with that graceful smoothness that characterizes the sails of the present era ; still, the striking similarity in the general model ot the hull will be apparent to every one. Thi anoient boat is, o tar a known, the only one whioh ha been preserved with it original rigging, and datea from the Eleventh or Twelfth Dynasty, or abont 80G0 year B. O. Everything bout yacht building that is known muht not be oredited to the nineteenth century. A Much-Needed Invention, There i an imperative demand for some invention that will prevent the esoape and waste of oil in machinery. While there are many invention that claim to do this, ail machinist are dissatisfied, and assert that the want is not yet met. On one of the trunk line running out of New York an in vestigation of the most exhaustive ort ha been made, resulting in the diaoovery that thirty-three per cent, ot the lubrioator used is lost, Here . is a chance for an inventor to make fortune. New York Ledger,
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