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A SERMON FOR SUNDAY
A DISCOURSE ENTITLED “ ULTIMATE
AMERICA.”, .
A Patriotic Address by the Rev. J. Alexan-
der Jenkins, Pastor of Immanuel Con-
gregational Church—This Country the
Spiritual Teacher of the Nations,
BrooxkLyY~, N. Y.—In Temple Israel the
lev. J. Alexander Jenkins, pastor of Im-
manuel Congregational Church, delivered
an address to a large audience on ‘“‘Ulti-
mate America, the Spiritual Teacher of
the Nations.” He said among other things:
. It is a commonplace of the newer think-
ing that the evolutionary process culmin-
ates in the soul of mam, the whole mighty
movement being satisfactorily explained,
according to tue thinking of the theistic
evolutionist, when matter endowed with
life and perfected through countless gener-
ations, has at last given to the mind of the
human being the instrument for the ele-
mentary exercises of its endless life. The
struggles of theagesare justified in the soul.
The student of ‘history is perplexed as he
hears the groanings and witnesses the tra-
vailings of the nations through the centur-
ies, and his natural and legitimate query,
as he beholds the rise and fall of nations,
is, Where lies the goal of the peoples and
what justifies the toils and agonies of the
race? The answer to this inevitable ques-
tion is this: Almighty God is leading the
nations toward thie goal of the highest life,
and the struggles of the ages find justifica-
tion in the birth of the world-soul. And if
the fact that God breathed into man’s nos-
trils the breath of life, so that he became
a living soul is sufficient recompense for
the bloody brute battles of the world’s
gray dawn, the thought that He will
breathe a soul into the nations should like-
wise be deemed ample compensation for
the gropings and grapplings of the aspir-
ants for national permanency and suprem-
acy.
The American colonists were not the
first men to fight for independence, but the
motives that produced the Declaration of
Independence made their fight epoch
marking no other fight had ever been.
Other nations had given up slavery, but
no nation was ever before called upon to
furnish so awful a proof of sincerity of
motive in striking the’ shackles from the
limbs of the enslaved. Other nations have
had to deal with the problem of undesir-
able aliens, but no nation ever felt as feels
America the imperativeness of a course of
action based upon righteousness and jus-
tice. Other nations have seized the terri-
tory of the weak and helpless, but none
has felt such deep, unselfish solicitude for
a dependent people as has characterized
our country in her dealings with a primi.
tive people committed to her care as the
outcome of her intervention in the inter-
ests of humanity. Other nations have had
to effect adjustments between employer
and employe, but no nation has ever been
«called upon to cfiect such an adjustment
when the conditions presented revealed so
clearly the fact that a great principle of
universal importance is involved. The set-
tlement of the “labor problem” in demo-
cratic America means the setlement for the
world, for here the employer of the high-
est type meets the worker of the highest
type, and the final result will be in keep-
ing with the character of the contestants.
»o we are learning the lesson of deliber-
ateness; and one of the most promising
signs of the times is the tendency to deal
with great questions cautiously and calmly.
The result of this course will be that what
the new America settles will stay settled.
She will settle, and that for all time, the
question of the rights of inferior peoples,
the question as to the character of the edu-
cation most to be desired, the question of
the relation of employer to employed.
America is to-day solving the accumulated
problems of the ages. And God is willing
that she should have time to complete her
task.
In view of what has been said, it will
strike us as a fact of solemn import that
our country is preparing for her yet larger
service through the slow, constant develop-
ment of- her religious consciousness. The
existence and wrowth of this consciousness
the superficial observer of our life and in-
stitutions nright feel inclined to deny.
Nevertheless, we are convinced that this
most necessary condition for present and
future leadership exists.
here shall we seek for this religious
gonsciousness? Shall we look for it in the
institutions set apart as avowedly relig-
ious? No mean has the right to scoff at or-
ganized religion. Our schools, our churches,
our synagogues are, on the whole, true to
their mission. But the truly effective re-
ligious consciousness must be found in
other places as well—in the editorial sanc-
tum, in the political gathering, in the mart
and the busy street. Let us find this con-
sciousness in these places, no matter what
its form, and we shall have as good a guar-
antee of the divine favor as though we had
gazed upon overflowing houses of worship
and listened to the eloquence of the elect.
The religious spirit which makes for Amer-
ican pre-eminence may be discerned in
many phases of the national life, but it is
strikingly evident in the new press, the
new poiitics and the new social ideal.
There are many, doubtless, who would not
concede that the press of the country fur-
nishes i f growing national
an evidence of
righteousness, but the fact remains, that in
the newspapers of our land there is a dis-
tinct trend toward righteousness and god-
liness.
The truthfulness and force of our pres-
ent contention will seem to maddy hard to
reconcile with the well-known fact that in
the United States the avowedly religious
journals are steadily losing ground. But
even this fact, rightly interpreted, is not
an evidence of natioral decay. The relig-
ious papers of to-day have a choice between
degeneration and evolution. The signs of
degeneration are stubborn adherence to de-
nominational shibboleths, fierce champion-
ship of ‘exhausted dogmas and growing im-
patience with progressive interpretation of
truth. The signs of evolution are the
throwing overboard of useless issues, and
the adoption of the leading features of the
great ‘‘secular” papers. The great relig-
ious papers of the country to-day are such
in name only. Were the contents of one
of these papers rearranged and printed in
newspaper form it would pass as a news-
paper, minus the newspaper's up-to-date
freshness. In the secular press, on the
other hand, there is steady progress and
increasing vitality. The moral tone of the
American people is reflected in the new
journalism, and the fact that the citizens
of the republic desire righteousness is pat-
ent to all who seek the underlying motives
of journalistic enterprise of the highest
type. And this. fact is most significant
when we remember that these great agen-
cies of publicity, free discussion and edu-
cation have a direct bearing upon the shap-
ing of the ideals of the inflowing millions
of our population. The spirit of the
Americ journalism is communicated to
the Americanized representatives of these
foreign peopies, ey in turn give it
to their depend vs through the col-
umns of their publications. We have no
right to assume that p s published in
foreign tongues stand for Old World an-
archy; we should her, heartily con-
cede thé fact that these journals, printed
1
in Italian, Ge n. Hebrew, Welsh and
other langu: ute a great mis-
sionary agency f{
Americani
fact th
foundation work
n. Indeed, the
n the making
loot and graft.
encouragement to faraway nations lying ia
darkness and distress. .
en we come to speak of the new
American politics we invite the ridicule of
those who see in American politics at its
best only a crude “shirt-sleeve diplomacy,”
and at its worst a contemptible system ot
1 And the self-satisfied crit-
ics of our political life ignore their own in-
consistency in that they expect a govern-
ment which they take pains to tell us is
“only an experiment” to run with the
sthoothness of an old governmental ma-
chine. The man who is content to live in
a primitive cabin, subject to the limitations
of a semi-barbaric life, may have trancuil-
ity and peace of a certain kind, but he
should be the last person to scoff at the
man who is battling against heavy odds
for better and more adequate accommoda-
tions. As a nation we are building the
better house. We nave found that it costs
labor and blood to secure the site for our
edifice, that our material, eut from the
forests of the Old World, is rough and un-
seasoned; that sometimes our workers fail
to enter unselfishly into the spirit of the
enterfrise. We at times discover, too, that
we have not followed correctly the plan of
the great architect, and then it becomes
necessary for us to humble ourselves by
tearing down part of the structure. But,
after all, the building grows, and its pro-
portions already begin to challenge the ad-
miration of the world. The critic, as he
sits at the cabin door of monarchy or arig-
tocracy, begins with vague alarm to cod-
tast the cracked and crumbling walls and
the leaking thatch of his abode with the
rising mansion in the distance.
The nation’s social ideal makes inexor-
able demands upon every citizen of the re-
public. The world of to-day marvels at
the matchless benefactions of our men of
wealth, and the nations are asking why it
is that this unprecedented philanthropy is
so peculiarly American. It is due to the
imperative claims of our social ideal. Pub-
lic sentiment demands, and men of wealth
recognize the demand as just, that private
wealth should be spent for the good of the
nation and for the good of the race. The
educator feels the same pressure. He hears
the voice of the people summoning him to
a free search for truth. The true labor
leader recognizes the same stern call to ser-
vice; so he becomes a mediator, an arbi-
trator between two great forces. The old
story in the good Book tells us that a
Pabel a mighty calamity befell the race—
that there the speech of mankind became
confused. In thisland of ours Babel is re-
versed. The nations are here assembled
to build the greater tower of truth, and
the confusion of the Babel tongues gives
place little by little to a new language, the
language of love, spoken by the toiling
millions, so- that in a sweeter, grander
sense than ver before it is to be true that
the whole earth shall be “of one language
and of one speech.”
Thales of old, with so shadowy a con-
ception of God that we know not whether
to classify him as atheist or as theist, yet
strangely conceived of deity as creating
the great world temple and so possessing
it as to reveal in its every part the pres-
ence of the Creator. The world of our
time may seem strangely indifferent to
that presence of God which the seers of
the race feel to he the most tremendous
fact of life. But the world will not remain
forever content with mere things. The
{ime is to come when the nations must feel
the Divine Presence. When that time
comes the ery of the peoples will be,
“Wherewith shall we come before the
Tord?’ God grant that in that solemn
day of the world's supreme need it may be
granted unto us as the teacher of the na-
tions to shout the great reply: “He hath
showed you, O nations, what is good; and
what doth the Lord require of you hut te
do justly, and tq Jove mercy, and to walk
humbly with your God.”
a physician is called to a case
of severe illness, the first thing that he
estimates is the resisting power of the pa-
tient. The chances for his recovery are
in proportion to his vitality. If there be
little of that at the outset there is small
hope of overcoming the disease. The re-
sisting power of persons in full health is
such that in an epidemic they throw off
the disease germs that prostrate others.
One cannot always tell from appearances
just how much ability one has to withstand
the inroads of a malady. Some who ap-
parently are robust almost immediately
succumb, while others who look frail re-
cover from violent attacks. Of course, dis-
sipation. unhygienic living, unhealthful
surroundings sap one’s resisting power, sO
that when a virulent ailment makes an
attack one has strength insufficient to
fight it off.
You see that it is not so mueh the ma-
licnancy of the disease as it is the vital
itv of the man that determines the re-
sult. Just so it is also in the moral world.
There are some persons living lives so up-
right, so spiritually healthy, that they ave
practically immune from temptation. And
when they are overcowe, they soon dis-
cover themselves, for their power of resis-
tance is great. On the other hand, there
ate those who after succumbing to one
temptation are completely swept away by
the power of evil. How can that be ac-
counted for? Obviously in the same way
that the ability to resist physical disease
is to be explained. There has been un-
wholesome moral living; the mind has
been permitted to become familiar with
evil thoughts; the soul has breathed in
miasma and corruption until one has no
ability to put away temptation. So
A this suggests the need of resisting
power both against disease and against
sin. A pure, clean, wholesome life, physi-
cal and moral, will make one secure
against any harm that either can do.
ae
Always at Our Side.
Mrs. Lucy Rider Meyer, the well-known
deaconess and writer, says:
“A busy woman entered her own room
as twilight shades were falling—went di-
rectly to her desk. turned on the gas, and
began to write. Page after page she wrote.
The solitude became oppressive. dhe
wheeled her chair around and with a shock
of joyful surprise looked squarely into the
face of her dearest friend, lying on the
lounge at her side. “Why, I didn’t know
vou were here!” she cried. “Why didn’t
vou speak to me?’ ‘Because you were $0
busy. You didn’t speak to me.” So with
Jesns—here all the time. The room is full
of ‘Him, always ready to greet us with a
smile—but we are so busy. But when the
solitude grows oppressive we suddenly
turn, and lo, He is at our side. We speak
to Him and He speaks to us, and the soul's
deepest yearnings are satisfied.”
Men Wanted.
There is nothing we are so much in need
of in our city and country as holy men.
When we think of the “epidemic of crime”
that alarms us, the social depravity that
the commercial shonesty
[9
disgusts us,
that startles us, we wonder if with our
opulence in material resources and our
spread of educational advantages, we are
srowing men, true men, as we ought.—
= 1: 3.3
Rev. John Thompson, Methodist, Chicago,
ll.
Joy That Helps.
Christian joy is an experience of great
depth and solemnity. It never overlooks
the sadness and ster: fe; i is
shallow or unreflectin it is re-
strained, tender, sympatheti
We know it when we
any whom we
Campbell.
iove,
Be at Your Best Always.
ee and me in
will comes to
le things equal’
br y. Bd
the occasion
Dignify the
a
Sweet---Biit It Dies
Dy Winifred Hall
IOUTH is the period: of enthusiasm, and, however cynical one may
be, none can deny that there is unutterable sweetness in tiie dream
of first love: !
i Yet first love is. rarely of the fiber which endures;
sweetness is in itself an‘element of decay.
———— The “dew of youth” cannot last, and under the full glare of
noonday all things wear a different aspect from that when seen under the rosy
light of early morn. z A
Boy-and-girl love may be passionate and absorbing, but its staying power
is not to be relied oft. ) :
Of course, there are some cases where the first inclination of a boy and
girl becomes the lasting attachment of the man and woman, where the fresh
love of two young hearts grows with their growth, and strengthens with their
Love's Young Dream is:
its very
strength; but such instances are exceptional.
The danger of falling in love at an early age lies in immaturity and, inex-
perience. Youthful inamination invests the object of its fancy with all the
virtues, lives in an artificial atmosphere of sentimentality and romance.
In the vast majority of cases first love between boy and girl is not love at
all; it is simply the attraction felt by dawning womanhood and young man-
hood for the other sex; the real or fancied need of loving and being loved,
which comes to most of us in the {ransition stage of carly youth.
The dangers of first love are greater to a girl than they are to a youth.
Separate any girl of seventeen from her lover, whom she regards as abso-
lutely necessary to her happiness and peace of mind, and ten years later bring
the two together once more.
Almost invariably the first sensation of the woman will be a rush of self-
contempt, her predominating idea, “How could I have been such a little fool?”
During the unsettled period of life known as the early teens, when, physi
cally, mentally and morally, the boy and girl are being moulded into shape.
courtship usually has the charm of forbidden fruit. :
The girl is supposed to know nothing about love, although her mother’s
own experience might well have taught her to the contrary.
The boy is expected to be too much eccupied with his studies, or too much
cngrossed with athletics, to spare time or thought for the girls.
Still, every schoolteacher will bear testimony to the fact that love-making
interferes with book-learning and begins even in the kindergarten.
A boy of eighteen or twenty often falls violently in love with a. woman
much his senior. The effect of such a passion, for good or evil, upon his future
depends wholly upon the kind of woman she is. :
If the fresh and beautiful first love of a boy's heart is poured out to a vain,
unscrupulous woman, his ideals will all be lowered, his faith in womanly truth
and goodness shattered, and his own peace of mind bartered for a fevered,
restless intoxication which leaves the dregs of bitterness behind it. Woe to
Lim if he marries her! . +
A boy’s sincere and earnest love for a sound-hearted, wholesomeiy-minded
woman- may be the making of him. She will do him good.
He may even marry her with safety, although he were wiser not to do so.
The best ending for such an attachment is to cool down into a true and
tender friendship, which will thereafter be among the good influences of the
man’s life. oy
To scoff at and ridicule young love may do great harm. Deaspite its imma
turity, it is usually pure and honest. .
Many young girls are unconsciously cruel when they begin ‘to realize their
own power. gver those of the opposite sex, and the sight of the victim's suffer
ing, whether expressed in sighs or sulks, by temper or by tears, only appears to
them as an excellent joke, . :
Certain it is that first love, either in man or woman, seldom endures throuch
the storms whieh we meet, and which so often overtake us in our voyage
through life, but at least it has the merit of since rity. Therefore, it should be
treated with respect.
LZ = <<
“Dream of the Navigator”
By George Ethelbert Walsh
HIS great “dream of the navigator” is almost as old as the dis-
Pp covery of America. It was when the conviction spread abroad
in Europe, that Columbus had only discovered a new conti-
nent, and not a new western passage to the wealth of the
Indies, that men of travel and science began to think of open-
ing a navigable channel from the Atlantic to the Pacific. As
early as 1581 a survey was made to see if North and South
America could not be cut in two. Captain Antonio Pereira,
Governor of Costa Rica, explored a route by way of the San
Juan River, the lake of the same name, and the rivers which empty into the
Gulf of Nicoya, Costa Rica. This early survey was the first actual beginning
of the story of Panama, which now promises to reach a conclusion within the
next ten years. Diego de Mercado, about thirty-nine years later, made a sur-
vey of the Nicaragua route, and recommended to King Philip of Spain the
construction of an interoceanic canal along the lines described by him. From
that time to the year when the French company, under the famous French en-
gineer Ferdinand de Lesseps, essayed to cut the Isthmus of Panama in two,
the Nicaragua and Panama routes have been periodically surveyed and resur-
veyed. until probably no other out-of-the-way corner of the earth has received
Lalf as much examination and geographical attention.—St. Nicholas.
2 AW Vg
The Patriotism of Ants
By H. C. McCook
ANY times and in many ways the devotion of ‘ants to their com-
rade has been tested. The rule is well-nigh invariable of instant
and absolute self-abnegation, and surrender of personal ease and
appetite, life and limb to the public welfare.
The posting of sentinels at gateways is customary, and they
are apt to know first the approach of danger. With heads and
quivering antennae protruded from the opening these city watch-
men not only dispatch within the news of threatening danger,
but rush out with utter abandon to face the foe. With ants
patriotism is not “second nature.” It is instinctive, inborn,
scemingly as strong in the callow antling as in the veteran brave.
It must be confessed, however, that it is rigidly exclusive. Racial eathol-
icity is not an emmetorian virtue. Ants are without that elastic hospitality
which embraces and assimilates all foreigners. Iven the slave makers Lold
their domestic auxiliaries strictly distinct.
It may be due to overmastering patriotism that one fails to discover indgi-
vidual benevolence in ants. Friendships and personal affection in the limited
and specialized sense familiar among domestic animals
L
And thus it is with other social insects.—Harper’'s
L& =
Crime and Poverty
Can Be Eliminated
By J. G. Phelps Stekes
meme 1 is a common thing for people to look on sickness, poverty
and crime, lamentable as they are, as unavoidable. I beliove,
on the other hand, that there is sufficient evidence to say that
these calamities are avoidable, and that it is possible to find
and eliminate the causes, just as the causes of illness are
traced and destroyed by physicians.
Poverty is largely due to sickness. There is not only the
avoidable suffering and death, but a colossal loss to the com-
munity through- ravaging diseases, the causes of which are
well known, and the remedies certa I don’t like to use the term, becau
it is often abused, but among the contributing causes is “the starvation
wage.” Together with this are the hours of work, exhausting
strength, the strength of the individual. -
There is a disposition to regard the erimi
essary part of an imperfect civilization.
become a good citizen. In
convicted men and women
system that is being widely i
age is lessened to twenty per ¢
the boys are not hud
and thoughts. This
are as yet unknown.
7
Se
excessive
as irretrievable and as a nee-
He can be taught to avoid prison and
the old days from seventy to eighty per cent, of
ned to their former lives. Under
d other countries, the |
prison the first offend
inals to learn their
r lived up to
1 1}
i Tl
» school SYS
to 3 far
the reform |
MARRYING FOR A HOME.
Home is a woman's real sphere of
usefulness, however much conditions
and necessities have forced her into
other and more extended omnes.
No true woman is indifferent to home
and all that it means to herself and
others.
The more truly womanly rhe is, the
more she appreciates and values it.
But to marry for the home’s sake is
like buying a picture for its frame, or
valuing the binding of the book above
the book itself.
No one can make the home a more
important thing in married life than
the man one marries, and in no possi-
ble case can the home satisfy one if
the husband fails.
Love for the man one marries will
make a home of an attic, or the weath-
er side of a hedge row.
But married life, where the home
comes first and the husband second.
or a bad third, is a hideous travesty of
what it was meant to be, and it can
never draw anything but a blank in
the marriage lottery.
fhe girl who marries for a home has
provided herself for the best of her
days with a cage, which she must
halve with another being.
Both are oblivious of the real rea-
sons for marriage, the highest and the
best.
Both put the Lome before the maker
of it, ‘and that leads to sure disappoint-
ment and failure in the ends ’
Marriage can hardly be a lottery in
the case of these people. ’
One could tell them so confidently
beforehand that it will (never draw
anything in their case but a dreary
blank. }
NOT AN EMPTY FORM,
The man or woman who is frequent-
fy heard to rail against social etiquette
may safely be put down as one who is
habitually unkind and inconsiderate.
The established forms are far from
being the shallow and superfluous
regulations that such people wonld
have us believe them,
Etiquette is the aesthetic expres-
sion of certain foundation principles
necessary in orderly character build-
ing.
Without a break of link missing the
more rational and genteel forms of
social usage will be found to gradual-
ly unfold wholesome and essen-
tial factors in the development of the
highest character,
There are various little acts and cer-
emonies in this social usage that would
seem sufficiently conventional to be
practiced by all. With our educational
facilities and the abundant circulation
of literature, followed by the social
advantages enjoyed by the masses of
Americans, it would seem - that we
should not only take pleasure in exer-
cising good manners, but should enjoy
the company of well-bred people, says
the Chicago Chronicle.
Such an article as an essay on Sso-
cial etiquette should be unnecessary,
but it is not. Ileedlessness has been
one of our besetting sins. There is
urgent need of our being reminded to
look after our practical tools of com-
mon politeness, and advised to sharp-
en and polish them up a bit.
In attaching importance to social
etiquette, “faddish” (ceremonial fool-
jshness without some wholesome
foundation principle) is not to be con-
sidered. Etiquette is a civility with-
out which we do not have polite so-
ciety.
Etiquette is necessary as a sort of
public dress rehearsal of that frater-
nal graciousness of character that rec-
ognizes the right of the other one to
our consideration. Dr. Trall, the cele-
brated hygienist, often said: “If it
were not for women, men would soon
revert to barbarism.” So much for
social form with its civility, cordiali-
ty, sincerity and fraternal interest.
In no instance does etiquette make
a deeper impression on us than in
dining and dinner giving. Among a
few of the persons one dines with he
feels comfortable, dignified and self-
respecting. The host or hostess holds
all in harmonious relationship. All
things seem to work together for the
common good, as if material objects
and social sentiment joyfully obeyed
some magical want that was swayed
by unseen fairies., Everything moves
in such order we take special note of
nothing save a happy satisfaction. No
one object stands out aggressively. All
is for concord; and we feel better and
more inspired for such an evening.
Such is the power of an ideal hostess
and a strict obs ance of eitquette
on the part of both guests and enter-
tainers,
BOUDOIR CHAT.
As a means of defense for women
in case of attack from a ruffian, a stil- |
letto hatpin is about to be placed on |
he European market. It is made of
1
i fine steel that will bend but not break, |
Y x :
wwrdened point and a han-
grasp it as a
le with which to
0.000 subscribed for
fund and an option re
on a Madisos: site. tl project
© a woman C in New
York City may be regarded as near ree
alization. The growing popularity of
women's clubs run on the lines of
men’s, as seen in the Women's Univers
sity Club, and the increasing feminine
interest in athletic training, give it a
double prospect of success.
The Atchison young girls are picking
on one of the young men who goes in
their crowd. They repeat his sayings
and make fun of them, and have suc-
ceeded in making him a laughing
stock. The young man is worthy and
industrious and is generally admired
by the business men with whom he*
comes in contact. We have heard
some of his sayings that the girls
laugh at, and it is the judgment of our
maturer years that the only reason
they have for making fun of him is
that he talks common sense. No prin-
cess will stand for that.— Atchison
Globe, ' i
Miss Helen Gould is looking for rape
id advancement in her betters
ment work to Mrs. Mary LI. Cranston,
a woman sociologist, who sailed for
Europe recently to make studies from
which she will compile a Bibliography
of co-operative distribution ard pro-
duction for the American Institute of
Social Science. This organization has
for its object the collection of every
kind "of information relating to social
and industrial betterment. Miss Gould,
as one of the Executive Committee, is
closely connected in this work with
Mrs. Cranston, and much practical
work has already heen accomplished
by: them,
socinl
The late Antoineite Sterling, the
singer, whose death w announced,
was born in Sterlingville, N. YY, a
placé founded by her family. - She-was
about sixty years old. In her youth
she left this country to study singing
abroad. She made her debut in 1873.
She married John Mackinlay in 1875;
he died in 1893, and their son, Mal.
colm, now twenty-seven years oid, is
a tenor singer, and an Eton and Ox-
ford man. Arthur Sullivan wrote
“The Lost Chord’ for her, and it fitted
her voice to perfection. Her singing
especially enjoyed by the late
Queen, who so much desired her pres
sentation at court that she relaxed in
Antoinette Sterling's favor the rigid
rule of the low-cut gown, because Miss
was
Sterling declared that she could not
combly with it.
-o {
—retty
3, AF os —
FN gp fo Wear
A sheaf of flowers lying on the arm
is said to be the most convenient form
for the bridal bouquet.
There is a tendency at
relegate the trimming of
ard the middle when it
zontally.
present to
skirts to-
is applied
Embroidery is the one recognized
decoration for the luxurious cloth
gown; but the economical or impecun-
ious may use braids of various widths
and kinds.
Transparencies in lace embroidery
and beadwork are being used for
promenade wear on the Riviera, with
chiffon or meousseline boas. White is
much affected by motorists at the
same place, and is to Le as fashionable
this year as ever.
The bodice is becoming an unaec-
knowledged quantity in the gowns of
the season, while the sleeves are of
primary importance. The larger the
better, is the rule which seems to
guide the fashionable coutourier, but
‘it is not largeness of the balloon va-
riety that is sought.
Chiffon dresses in all sorts of colors
are much in evidence at the present
time, brown and moleskin tones shar-
favor with gray, and gauging
forms the principal trimming, with
occasional touches of lace, such as a
valenciennes tucker, or a deep cape
collar of thread lace. Rows and rows
uging are used around the waist,
1d the top of the bodice, heading
the fiounces, and holding the sleeves
down at the shoulder.
A chiffon rosa craze is now running
very high in Paris, and from its in-
tial 1 pulation, which is a very
miracle ‘of deft fingering, to its uiti-
mate artistic disposal, either in
i
is
ing
wreath or in separate clusters, the
chiffon ros an adornment to be aec-
cepted and made much of. In effect
it is as light as a dream, each petal
standing forth and declaring itself
an individual identity, as though verily
of nature's handiwork.
The extensive adulteration of silk
induced by the great demand for that
fabrie
the last few years has
led to such a strong feeling against
the use of the doctored concoctions
that an effort is befng made in the
centres to put an end to the
The adulteration of silk JS
tionable from every point of
but ¢ ily because the
on of this materia
destroyed the natural cry
fa by transfor:
3 Tyo
during
I'0-
1
1
foreigr
ratile 1 L
the steamer
Such
type.
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