rr 2 ol TRE a SpE i I i ; ; i So With different stocks for different occa- slons, and myriads of these in the bargain, the summer girl finds she must supply her- self with many styles and varieties. Carefully folded and laid away in separate compartments, or in faintly perfvmed cases, are soft riding stocks; plain stocks without fluttering ends to bother her when playing golf; dainty and trim stocks for morning wear, and all manner of soft, fluffy confec- tions of lace and chiffon, which are destined to encircle her fair throat when she is at some smart afternoon function. It really seems that the up-to-date young woman cannot have too great a variety of modieh neckwear. The point which endears the new stocks most to feminine hearts Is the extreme coolness and comfort which once was an unknown factor in summer neckwear. Now, however, the neat, hard- worked linen bands so popular with every woman are only partly stiffened, and in- stead of warm ribbons there are thin ties, which may be fastened in a pretty and be- coming knot. Many new designs of turnover collars in linen, lace and embroidery are noticed, while stocks with fancy ends are getting to be so numerous and pretty that one is almost at a loss to know just which styles to choose. Mercerized linen, in all the becoming shades A . vb 4 RTE i” INT” of blue, pink, tan and white, make extremely smart turnovers when finished with a pat- tern of drawn work above a narrow hem, or when daintily buttonboled with line thread to match. The band with the deep pointed front is go- ing out, and women are choosing instead straight turnovers or else those which have the ornamental edge only slightly curved. An elaborate embroidery pattern gives the collar too heavy an appearance, and, besides, just now there is a decided preference for sheer licens and organdies, daintily hem- stitched or tucked and decorated with cor- ners, circles or other fancy figures in very fine drawn work. The newest stocks have the collar part finished with pretty turnovers, and then the ends of the ties display the same style of trimming. For instance, a pretty sheer white linen stock, with the center part rounded slightly to fit the neck and laid in very fine horizontal tucks, has a turnover gently waved at the bottom edge, where it is fin- ished with a quarter-inch hem of pale pink Moen held to the turnover part by means of fancy stitches worked in very fine linen Shread. The corners and center of the turnover have small medallions of drawn work, while a larger reproduction of these finish the: Si EA [{ WN) J EF Nn \ => ends of the pink bordered ties. Medallions of lace or sheer embroidery are prettily ap- pliqued on the corners of turnovers and tle ends, and these make very effective pleces of neckwear, especially when all in white. Many of the new transparent white stocks display dainty lace insets or lace trimmed turnovers, and the ties, of course, are orna- mented to match. By the way, the simple bowknot, with two loops and two ends, usually tied so that these latter are on the upper side, is the ac- cepted method of fastening the ties. Four- in-hands are no longer considered good style for this particular kind of neckwear. Sets of cuffs and collar, for stock, to match are very popular, and the cuffs are simply a smaller counterpart of the collar. They turn back over the sleeve very smoothly and at varying depths, and fasten with tiny gold cuff pins. Widows find these effects especially suited to them, and a novelty intended for them alone consists of a set of collar and cuffs of very sheer white organdie, with quite wide double hems. These little pins, which come in sets of three, are designed expressiy for fastening my lady's dainty linen stock and cuffs, and even as with the linen fancies there are several styles from which one may easily find something altogether pleasing. Smart Froeks Worn Ip Paris. Paris, Saturday. Kxceedingly graceful and pretty is the afternoon gown from Beer, which presents 2 unique feature in the deep flounce encir- eling the bottom of the skirt. At the knees the plain part, of pastel silk crepon, ends in shallow points, which are finished with fancy silk-covered rings. Between these rings, placed their width apart, narrow rib- bons of crepon, which have the effect of be- ing continuous pieces of the skirt, fall to the floor over an accordion plaited under flounce of rose chiffon. This is gathered upon a foundation of rose taffeta. Following the ne of the upper edge of the flounce are four rows of sllk-covered rings, through which the straight ribbons are rum, and about the extreme edge of the flounce is a narrow band of rose crepe. The corsage is quite plain, with the usual blouse effect, and sleeves which display a fashionable fulness between elbow and wrist. A crushed felt fastens at the back under loops and ends and displays a pretty incrustation of lace. The hat is a very pale blue straw, with a garniture of flowers and dainty drapery of white mousseline velling the tint of the straw, 80 as to make it seem almost white. Could anything be more simple than the old rose gown of etamine, with its perfectly plain skirt and tight-fitting corsage, having oddly shaped basques, curving from the front in large postilllon effect? The corners of these unusual but stylish skirt pieces are ornamental, with fancy shaded embroideries, while a bit of the same appears around the low-cut neck and on the cuffs. The effect of a very wide graduated box plait is secured by an ar- rangement of tucks down the front of the corsage, and this has for its sole trimming a double row of flat gilt buttons. Above the cut-out neck there shows barely a scrap of a dainty lingerie vest, which con- trasts prettily with the dull shade of old rose. A hat from Leontine accompanies this Dukes et Joire frock. This is made of rough straw In old rose, trimmed with soft rib- bon and flowers, while a white silk para- sol, having tiny rose-tinted wreaths scat- ‘tered over its triangular sections, adds its BY ELISE DEY. . ROOSEVELT STOCK. WHITE SATIN WITH A BLACK CHOUX. THE. »atIcE AN ELABORATE ETON. : mousseline, The silvery sheen of the two colors is extremely pretty and looks well in contrast with the more striking trimmings. That such a combination is a French one goes without saying, and that it exhibits the new apron trimming makes it all the more interesting, for women as a whole are al- ways eager to find an effect which tends to lefncrease the height. A wide pane! of Irish yorochet lace extends down the length of the - gkirt in front, and where it narrows becom- ingly at the waist line it blouses ever so Httle, then broadens again to form the apron bib which fastens at the bust under hand- some jet trimmings. The lace panel, which is marked at the bot- tom by a pointed fringe of jet, ending at the sides in huge disks, outlined with glistening black scales, continues on around the bottom of the skirt, rising gently toward the back and fulfilling the office of flounced heading. Its upper irregular edge has an outlining of inch-wide paillette bands, and at intervals this is broken by one of the large jetted disks already mentioned. From the fact that there is so much of the jet on the skirt one woud naturally suppose bits of harmonious colering to the whole. Suede Cloth to Stay. Suede cloth seems to have taken on a long lease of popularity, especially for coats. Again in the Dukes et Joire model do we see a smart use of this fabric, having for orna- mentation incrustations of ochre colored gulpure. wr SIMPLE GOWN OF OLLD ROSE ETAMINE. WORK, THOUGH SHE MUST THE CORRECT THING. NOT WEAR LACE. THE DOUBLE CUFF IS The coat reaches to the floor, half fitting the figure, with a slight break in the long lines just at the waist. where it is loosely drawn in. A low. rounding collar and cuffs to match of black embroidered taffeta are’ edged with an effective pattern of rich yel- lowish lace, while a dainty fall of the same fine meshes is caught across the front by means of fancy silk cords and tassels. Where is the dainty afternoon or evening gown that doesn’t present a more or less elaborate ornamentation of lace as its chief feature of trimming? By no means has lace had its day. On the contrary, it seems to be at the very zenith of its glofy, and new patterns, as well as novel uses of old, frequently appear to lend a little variety to this fad If any signs of its abate- ment are discerned. For a new style of trimming and one which displays to advantage that smartest of all combinations—black and white—an evening frock of chiffon and lace is recommended. Besides the use of black and white, there is & charming effect of soft gray obtained by covering the black chiffon skirt with another it to be extremely heavy, but the tiny scales are put on a foundation of black mousseline, and used so delicately that their weight is i by no means noticeable. From the lower edge of this broad Irish lace band there falls a graceful graduated flounce of black Chantilly lace, laid over a foundation of white chiffon which has for its fond a thin white taffeta with narrow ruches forming a border. How Lace Is Placed for Effect. Not more than three inches of the chan- tilly shows across the front, where the white lace panel is invisibly joined to the broad band running across the bottom by this handsome fringelike ornament of jet, the center drops of which are long enough to touch the floor. The same striking wheel trimmings are put upon the lower edge of the horizontal! band of white lace, so that they alternate with those at the top. The upper rows, however, are much more effective om account of the light back- ground, though the ones embedded in the filmy certainly extremely beautiful. meshes ] exactly like it in cut, but made of soft white | of the black chantilly are | FIVE OF THE NEWEST COLLARS FOR SUMMER. Like the skirt of this charming frock, the corsage Is rather simple, yet lovely withal. There is a trimming of Irish crochet about tne low square neck, and this falls to a to fall outward to a depth of almost ten inches. Smaller bands of jet and disks to match decorate the gathered edge of this flounce. The belt, or rather sash, consists of a broad black velvet ribbon brought from the sides of the lace blb toward the back, where it is fastened in a simple bow, having the pointed ends finished jetted fringe. Certainly the frock is far beyond the or- dinary; in fact, it is unique in its combina- tion of startling black and white against the silvery background of softly blended migpie shades. Will be found extremely becoming to tall, slender figures on account of its cling- ing, graceful folds. A somewhat similar use of Irish lace is represented In an all white frock of crepe de chine. About the hips the soft fabric is laid in tiny tucks which run almost to the knees, at which point they are released in order to give a little spring before the insert of hand- some lace breaks in upon the extreme plain- ness, of the garment. The border effect of lace is-at least 18 inches deep, and its lower edge is finished with a simple wide hem of the crepe de chine. There are no frills or fulness of any description—just plain bands of trimming. The blouse, which fastens at the back, is a pretty and dainty arrangement of Irish lace and finely tucked white mous- seline de sole. depth of about four inches as it slopes to- ward the front, where it is intercepted by the lace bib previously mentioned. Two rows of overlapping jet paillettes placed b with waar. three inches apart outline the square decels lete, and at each side of the front appears a smaller jetted disk to match those upom the skirt. Between the two handsome ornt- ments is another fringe or ‘rain’ of jet, with the long, glistening threads falling over the apron bib almost to the waist. Small plain sleeves of Irish lace ovew white chiffon are cut off some distance above the elbow and finished here with a flounce of black chantilly, which Is caught up at the inner seam and is then allowed Fortunes Easily Made. That a good bull-fighter can make a fortune In a single season recent statistics show. Here is what Mazzantini, Reverte and Guerrita have accomplished in one seasom: Mazzantini took part in 66 fights and killed 168 bulls; Reverte took part in 71 and killed 160, and Guerrita took part in 76 and killed 147. As a reward Mazzantinl obtained 396,000f., Reverte 276,000f. and Guerrita 256,0001. ‘‘Butchers in every country,’’says a French writer, ‘work a good deal harder than thease three accomplished bull-fighters, and yet they do not earn by any means as much money.” It is considered that Japanese men arp among the best needleworkers in the world, their only equals being the women of Rus- sla. Many paupers have lived to be a hundred years old, but there is no record of a million naire having attained that age. SUEDR CLOTH COAT WITH TKIM MINGS OI F TAFFETA AND LACE.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers