When clinging skirts are everywhere te be seen and pleats that are so modish ap- pear stitched and pressed flat to the knees, it 1s something of a refreshing change to be Introduced to as charming a model as the Redfern gown here depicted. Ruffles there are and quantities of them, with their soft overlapping filminess extending from the decolletage to the very edge of the pretty skirt. The material is silken gauze, in that mel- low yellowish shade of old ivory, and the entire skirt Is encircled with slightly gradu- ated frills which start at the waist with a downward curve in front; then, as they reach toward the bottom, the ruffles adjust themselves to the new lines and drop gently outward and down to form the slight train. A wider flounce of silver embroidered gauze is set directly upon the edge of the skirt and this increases in width at the back. The same handsome antique embroidery is repeated on the corsage, to form a yoke effect, shoulder straps and the upper part of the short sleeves without a visible break. A shallow point, flanked by two deeper ones, falls directly across the bust, while the sleeve portions present a still deeper design. Two gauze ruffles, of the same width as the medium-sized ones on the skirt, are permitted te fall im negligee effect across the front of the decolletage and to finish the pointed embroidery sleeves. A very broad crushed ceinture of silvery blue liberty satin folds about the waist, and has its upper edge hidden beneath the de- pending corsage frills. At the back the ands are knotted in sash effect with two proportionate streamers cut om the cross and fringed. With this frock is worn a handsome pearl collier, which is clasped in frent with a large antique silver ornament, BY ELISE DEY. or which a dragon fiy design is brought inte bold relief by having its greenish tinged wings wrought in fine enamel and cut emerald Incrustations. The other evening frock ts a princess ef- fect, fashioned from deep rose brocade and elaborate ornamentations of crocheted lace. A board pattern of this trimming edges the bottom of the traim and extends up the sides and back of the skirt in graceful ir- regular lines. Plisse chiffon and tiny ruches give a filmy effect to the bottom, while shoulder straps and choux of the same delicate fabric lend a softness to the otherwise rather severe corsage. The handsome lace design reaches the full length of the frock in front, and it is broad enough to cover the bust, narrows percepti- bly at the waist, then widens as it falls downward, branching out at intervals in graceful sprays and curves. Underneath the lace the silk is cut out and the accepted sub- stitute—delicate mousseline—is used as an effective background for the coarse meshes and large petals. NEW PANEL IN THE “APRON FRONT.” Apropos of these long lace panels for the fronts of gowns, there is a novel idea which is being introduced im Paris, and this is called the apron front. It consists of an effect very much like the one just deseribed, and the upper section fastems te the bodice in the same manner as the bib of an apron is held in place. The novelty is particularly becoming to figures upon which & princess gown looks well. The black cloth street cos- tume depends for its smartness chiefly upon the unusual arrangement of applique de- signs. The skirt, which falls well on the floor, is cut in several close-fitting seams, each cne of these being covered with black vel vet rectangles, outlined with black and white fancy silk cord, and separated from each other by small square velvet-covered but- tons, caught at the upper and lower sides with white silk embroidered arrow points. Down each side of the front and back of the plain, well-shaped blouse are two rows of the same trimming, so placed that over each shoulder is a rectangular piece, which exaggerates the natural breadth. Another row extends from top to cuff on the outer side of the sleeve. A touch of white appears on the straight cuffs and shows in white and black embroidered diamonds, put point to point around the edge of the collar. The smart hat which accompanies this gown is one of the fashionable shapes in pure white rough braid, simply trimmed with broad black velvet ribbon. This is looped across the rolling front, again over the left side, which turns up higher, and is fastened with two fancy pearl pins. Then at the back, where the shape droops a little, there is placed a broad bow of the black velvet ribbon, having ends which fall to the shoulders. While the hat Is extremely simple in lines and ornamentation It is ex- cellent for these very characteristics. Black and white appear again in the hand- some afternoon frock, which is a sheath- like garment fashioned from jet spangled black tulle laid over a foundation of white taffeta. While it Is princess in style there is just a suggestion of blouse in fromt to conform to the prevailing fashion of loose- ness. Dainty Venetian lace puffs and wrist: bands are let into the plain sleeve, and the same white meshes are introduced in the pretty collar. A succession of black chiffon plisse frills finishes the bottom of the gown and forms the graceful train, over which the pallletted robe falls in deep points. Short Silk Coats Again Popular, cst GCE {GD fo Geto Shorts silk ceats have become so popuidl t ey have ceased te be a novelty, 80 in this modish length ome must look for mew effects in something besides this fash- femable fabric. One of the latest editions of the smart little coat Is a bolero with short pageda sleeves. The material from which it is made ls that beautiful shade of suede cloth which appears in many of the exquisite gowns and mantles designed for spring wear. 4 and This bolero reaches just a trifie below the waist in the back as well as the front, at which latter point there is observed the slightly downward curving line following that of fashionable walsts, . Te stimulate a panel effect embroidered bands of the cloth about two and a half imehes wide, having their scalloped edges and center figures worked in gray and white silk, are arranged down each side of the frent, around the bottom of the bolero and sleeves, while extra pleces extend the tength of the outside part of the sleeve and from the shoulder to the bottom of each side front. Short sleeves and broad collars are at at extremely smart when worn upon | a coat of fancy bolero. The coliar Sniehing the neck of this coat ie edged a]! around with a scalloped em- Breidery pattern, and a frill of creamy ipure falls from under the ornamented Border of the cellar, is caught at the throat im two seft rosettes, then is permitted to eontinue down the front of the coat en eascade. The garment is worn slightly open at ihe throat am@ the tiny upstanding neckband displays & bit ef embroidery, while the fronts are almost concealed beneath the soft lace ehoux. Fer lining this smart coatee a thin soft silk was chosen, se that while serving as a wrap it would not be altogetber téo warm for wear during the first few weeks of sum- mer. Bverybody whose figure will permit of the wearing of these new and stylish coats is appearing in some one of the handsome novelties. Even linen suits come with an extra coatee ornamented to match the rest of the costume, while frequently separate linen garments of this cut are seen. The glace silks are, however, still consld- ered by far the smartest for dressy Oocca- sions, and these are shown In coats, coatees, blouses and boleros. For young women the shorter effects ob- tain, while those of maturer years and less slender figures choose 2 style somewhat longer, but of this same distinguished look- ing fabrie. Many of the coats are formed of solid tucking, relleved by Bruges or Chantilly lace, while othets display handsome a jour ormamentations. It is a fancy now to have the broad lace | or embroidered collars turn away from the throat without any upstanding bands, and this proves a much more agreeable arrange- ment for warm days and evenings. There is a decidedly youthful appearance to these broad Charles II. or Louis XIII collars, and on this account they are continuing to be as_popular as ever, oI even more £0. With the half loose back and the straight hanging fronts, these light-weight silken garments are just the thing to draw on over lace and fancifully trimmed blouses, so much in vogue this season. An Oriental efféct seems to have caught on, and several handsome kimono coats. with pagoda sleeves, have made their ap pearance and put in a hid for popularity. Some of these fall in their loose, straight lines just to the waist, and you can imagine how very chic and charming they look. Sleeves which reach to the elbow are the prettiest of all. whether they are wide or only slightly bell curved. The effect of the broad black upper part, from under which droops the full chiffon or lace puff of the under blouse, is oue of the smart wrinkles of fashion. BLACK AND WHITE STRIPED DUCE EMBROIDERED IN RED CHERRIES. AN UNUSUAL NOTE IN FASHION. An unusual note was struck by a Francis model noticed the other day. There was the black glace coatee or blouse and a con- trasting skirt of reseda cloth, while only a tiny bit of this soft, beautiful greem ap- peared om the silk garment. Plaits, of course, are fashionable effect for skirts, and this gown had a cluster oi tiny ones arranged in a panel effect down the front and a wider series at the back. falling from a curiously shaped yoke mad: of cloth hexagons stitched very fiat. The bottom of the skirt was simply trimmed with several rows of stitching in green to form three-inch squares, but point to point, In a row just above the marrow hem. This square effect is one of the mod- ish things for skirts, and nearly all th: French models present some sort of an ar- rangement following out these lines. The glace blouse was incrusted with con- verging stripes of creamy lace braid, whic! formed a sunburst effect, having the end- of the rays finishing in a scroll. The sleeves and collar repeated the de sign, while the skirts of the blouse werd nexagonal pleces of silk laid in plaits and put close together to carry out the yok: idea. Lace gilet and puffs, gathered Into » dainty wristband, gave an air of softness SMART STREET DRESS OF BLACK OTH, WITH ENRIQUE VELVET AFP PLIQUES OUTLINED WITH WHITE. to the entire garment, while a scrap of reseda velvet exquisitely embroidered It black and white appeared on the collar and in the turnback cuffs of the short taffetn sleeves. You have no idea how stumnin: the combination was, and how wonderfully the touch of green upon the blouse brought out the beauty of the black and white. In the black and white striped dark gown here depicted is observed the same style of short sleeves, ending in broad cuffs, with tie under blouse forming dainty and cool-look- ing puffs. The long coat of this summer costume is made with a rounding skirt section set upon the tight-fitting body. It is intended to fasten down the front, yet a much prettier appearance is secured hy leaving the coat open to disclose the cool summer blouse worn underneath. = Graduated straps of black braid are put on in military fashion. and tiny black silk crochet balls are sus- pended in clusters of three between the loops of braid. An extremely deep rounding collar, head- ed by a small and plain rolling band, gives a dash of smartness to the entire dress. Black braid applied in flat rows outlines both collars, and the broader one displays a stunning embroidery design of scarlet cherries and green leaves which is very novel. The same cherry pattern is dupli- cated for a border on the deep cuffs of the short sleeves. Three rows of black braid, put close to- gether, extend down each side of the front of the skirt, starting close together at the waist and separating widely at the bottom. There is not much of a train to this cos- tume, a slight dip being considered quite sufficient for walking purposes, for which it is intended. NEGLIGEE GARMENTS ALWAYS SERVICEABLE. A woman never seems to possess too many of those attractive little negligee garments in which she arrays herself when in the se- clusion of her own boudoir. For summer they are fashioned of the sheerest wush- able fabries, and are profusely trimmed with the daintiest of laces. For her who Is going to the mountains, where fresh morning breezes brirg a chill to the air before it is warmed by the noon- day sun, a comfortable dressing jacket made AFTERNOGN GOWN OF BLACK PAIL- LETTED TULLE OVER WHITE. of albatross is here portrayed. The color is pale blue, and down the front, around the pointed bottom of the jacket, edging the wide collar and deep flounces at the hand are three rows of fagoting about three-quarters of an inch apart. At the band these pointed affairs are caught back with a knot of blue liberty rib- bon, and at the throat, where two long scarf ends of application lace fall to the edge of the sacque, there is knetted more of the becoming blue ribbon. A blue taffeta petticoat is worn with this dainty little house jacket. Its kmee deep flounce of point d’esprit is encircled with rows of tiny satin ribbom ruches. On the very bottem of this flounce is set a narrow lace edging, while for a heading is used = ruching of double edged lace in the same pattern. Point d’esprit, by the way, is ome of the rewest revivals for dainty summer frocks und lingerie, and It must be admitted that nothing fresher or prettier could be chosen to accompany the sheer and lovely summer frocks which women, young and eld, are going to display this coming season. Y'retty little lounging robes, tea gowns and all manner of fancy jackets are de- signed from crepe de chime, nun's veiling, lace and thin China silk, and gowaed ia this airy exquisiteness lovely femininity is truly irreaistible. : For long robes, as well as short, loose: jackets, accordion plaiting seems to be ex- tremely well liked, and such effects are very graceful when falling from yokes and beleres | fashioned from valenciennes insertions joined by sheer embrolderies. Wide sleeves are very pretty on such garments, and many of them are flowing bell or pagoda shapes, formed of lace entre deux, with a frill fin- ishing the edge. More elaborate robes are made with a thin «ilk er chiffon foundation, over which Is hung 8 dainty garment of spotted net, lace or diaphanous silk mousseline. One of the loveliest of the long tea gowns was fashioned from sheer white batiste in empire style. SHORT-WAISTED YOKE EFFECT. The short-walsted yoke effect was wrought »f Irish guipure, with the neck cut low and ~quare and edged with a tiny lace frilling. Across the bust the pattern was arranged in inch-wide strips, which were pointed at each end, and 8 wide, soft blue liberty ribbon was laced through this design, tying at the bust in a soft chou with long streamers. The sleeves had a cap of the Irish lace, and these, too, were run with ribbon, so that he effect was as if the soft blue continued without interruption around the empire yoke ‘and sleeves. A chou with fluttering ends was placed on the outside of each sleeve. The sleeves were very full, loose pagoda ones, made of vertical bands of fine batiste tucking, alternating with entre deux of Irish ace, and the wide edge showed a finishing frill of the same lace. The entire body of this raceful, loose robe was formed of vertical bands of tucking aud lace insertion, and through the open meshes one caught glimpses of dainty blue mousseline. The gown trailed becomingly, and all around the foot was a deep flounce frilled with Irish lace. Very elaborate, indeed, Is such a tea gown, but there are simpler ones which are really quite as effective and pretty. For (instance, here is one of fine white lawn cut circular, <0 that while there is no fulness at the top the material sweeps out in becoming lines without the use of plaits. A bolero formed of filet squares, arranged point to poimt, furnishes a pretty trimming for the waist, while the robe part is arranged im vertical appliques of filet ornaments, with a row be- low the knees, which serves as a heading for an applied circular flounce of lawn, upon which are put mere lace squares. IVORY GAUZE, WITH OLD SILVER EMBROIDERIES REDFERN MODEL. Medallions and fancy lace ornameuta- tions still hold their own for this purpose, yet one must admit that accordion pleating produces quite as handsome a gown, espe- cially if there is a bolero or yoke of fine meshed Cluny, Venetian or Maltese lace. Here is a dainty effect in plaited pink mousseline, with the bottom of the empire robe banded with waved lace, which alter- nates embroidery entre deux. A broad Louis XIII. collar falls away from the throat and lends an especial prettiness to the plain yoke. The sleeves are wide pieces of accordion pleaticg gathered nto the arm- holes and banded about six inches from the top with flat embroidery. From here the soft pleating is allowed to fali unconfined, and its wide edge is daintily finished with | Ji SHI [34 nl AT hc ie RRR A CABLE HE) Wig gg ened LAE BITTY arbi Sear Eri | nit RIGOR : } EY 3 WN A SHEEN REDRESS Cu wil ALBATROSS DEBBSING JACKET TBIMMED WITH FAGOTED FLOUNCED How de ole map was Fooled AR old negro, whom zed as Uncle Tom Bolilng's - EN up to the porch where my wife and I were sitting. “Howdy, Marse les?’ he sald, taking off his hat and resting hie stick and basket on the lower ste tpn 5 “Sarve ye, Mistls! Yeo dees bofe leek mighty peart dis hot dar. Lo : ‘“Thanky, Marster, I b'liéveé I will res’ dese heah bones. I dome brung ye a presemt, Marse Charles. Five ob de biggest, fattest, 20f'est chickens my hen ‘ouse could scratch up, sah. : “Yes, sali; I'se” Fight peart Tor i ole’man. EBr—Marse Charles, sah, you ceuldn’ please, sah. len’ me $8 fer my s’clety. Yes, te he'p de ole man along, could ye, sah?” “James,” 1 sald sternly. ‘yeu know 1 aever receive presents nor lend money. Take the chickens sround to the kitchen and tell the cook te buy them.” “Lordy! how ole 1 is gittin’! muttered James. ‘“Tn think T one teok ve for vo’ na when T ax ve dat question. A’'mighty free handed gemman he was, sah. Yes, sah: dev wa'n’t nothin’ mean nor little *hout yo’ na.’ “Jamen.” put In my wife, by way of givin~ the conversation a new ture. “von must have a very goo wife to raise such fine chickens for vou.” Jamen reflected. “Well, Mistis.” he sald slowly. “she sin’t so gnod now ez some athers T is had. Nor'm. Ant she ain't.” “How many have von had. James?’ anes tlonad mv wife, with rome amusement. “Wellum. Ala ane make fo’—van'm. Alc Ic As fofe ome, Mistin. Tother thee wae al’ lkely gale, 'n voung. too. Yas'm. dev wae a1 vanne ‘cep’n dln one. an’ she's ale.” “Whe 418 yon get such gn od one?’ asked my wife, “Why'd T git her. Mixtis? She got me. She feo! me. dat’s hoceum. Yas’m. che fonl dis nigger good. "Twas this away: —S8he were 2 widow ‘oman wid ene daughter. a mighty sprightly, light-complected gal. She fevor her ma, teo: but de diffamce betwixt ‘em wae in de yonngness, “1 didn’t want ne ole ‘oman a-groanin’ an’ g-moanin’ 'roun’ me wid de rheumaticks in her jints. Naw, ma'am. 80 I jes set right up te de daughter, yas'm, ‘n she seem ter Uke @e ole mam right f'um de werd ge. Hn an application of wavy lace. Ribbons are an essential feature of such robes, and fichus, herthas, collars and al) coming more and more favored for use upon these distinctly feminiue garments, manner of fancy little ornaments are be- i SILK BROCADE INCRUSTED WITH Arter while I motice dat she don’t light @» lamp when I come in ter see hou in do obon- in’s. “No'm! She says she like do five light bev, 80 I say I likes de fire light bes’, too; 80 és she 'low she'd like to be ma'ied jos’ by @o fire light, 'n like a ole feel I say, ‘Dat suits me, honey,’ 'kase my seein’ ain’ mone (ee £00¢ noway, spite ob dese heah hora Marse Tom gib me 'fore ho died, 'n 1 ain’ keer 'bout de bride seein’ mae blinkin’ in deo light like a owel. Nor'h! Se Isay, ‘Dat suits me, honey.’ “Well, Mistls, to make de short story long, ez de sayin’ is, when de pa’son th’ow baek de veil for to s’lute de bride. one ob dese heak fool niggers on the plantation lit a pine Rnet ‘mn hel’ it up in front ob ker, ar’, Mistis—wid mos’ all my eyesight gone, I seen ‘twas &at gal's ma dat was de bride. “Sah! de perspe’ sweats come 2-po’in’ entes me same ez if ‘twas watermillion time, an’ 1 ain’t aquit sweatin’ yet. Aye, Lord! “Thanky. my Marster, des a little ye ¢ nn. «ho do make de ole man thu’sty ter tell dat tale.” 'CALLY RYLAND. Fads of a Grand Duke. The rand Duke of Heese is almost lady- like in his tastes. He embrolders skilfully, and is never so happy as when busy with his needle over some piece of famecy werk, spending more time over the arrangement of an attractive design and the selection of striking colors than probably he would think necessary to devote to his affairs of state. As a child he was particularly musical, playing the piano really well and having remarkably correct ear. He composed sev- eral instrumental pieces which are declarcé® to be well above the average. Among his fads are carpentry and upbel stering, and he has founded classes for the study of both trades, hoping te make Darm- stadt a center for the preduction of nevel- ties In cabinet making. : oo YY < SS Rpt Na sgn HEAVY CROCHET LACE. i - 5 pre tha Bri
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