0 ' f tt ti i f" ui T t-i he VC ii THE MlDDLEimKGII POST. T. H. IIAHTF.lt, Editob ajid Pro'h. MWDLKIifHf. I'A ., .M.V. I MO. A London journalist i proving himself l wise father, lie is fluc:tt itif his son to lir a cook, ns lie finds that tlir culinary nrt ny.i better tlmn tin; learned pri.fes siotls. In 1S;J what is no.v known us "in. AlienA" was known then as, Tyler' grip." Tyler wa Pr"ldciit of the Vnitcd Static, atid jiiil nftc r he vi'toeil tin- "It.itid States l.nik bill" this, t i'lrrnic swept over tlie country inn' was called ''Tyler' grip." The total eclipse of the Kill! rcccnt!j das observed by the I nitcd States sci entitle expedition ut St, Paul ill! Luanda, west coast of Africa. Seventy pictures weri' taken before tu l forty after totality. The sky was clear during th" tirt part f t!ie cclipe, hut aft'rw anl i bcur d. The observ.it ions were considered to lf f l l Iv successful. THE OREATER OR!Ef The rr(itp ifrlnf U still to know That though the newer sunrisn burn The sunrise will ne'er return; That morn, with rnr nil ahlnw, Must lone Its dew In noontide's glow. Hlmll love ne'er iiUjr, ltit ever gruw Into n wst, and ever show Through ehnplnt friwh to soul that yenrn The greater grief? () ftwivt the ng in nioonrim glow 1 The lingering till the moon hangs low; The II rut faint sixns hjr which we learn The nijjht to day Is-giim t'i turn, All, these were wwt, did wp ne'er know The greater grief I . T. .SmM-th, in HiirrrB Wrrkhj. ONE SUBSCRIBER. 1 1 1 X life, I'.V f II Y KTI.r; D.M.I, As. I'li'vlic Mum ford eninc down to break fast line morning in very low spirit. There seemed tin doubt that the mort gage would he foreclosed ut last. Her father's mind failed more mid more Ewrything was forlorn and wretched. She had been gaing at a rote colored picture of the past to which distance lent i iichiii.tmcnt. She saw her buxom, comfortable, loving mother; her young mints, who pelted her; n kind though grave father;. 'i lover- Hilly Marlon who adored hi r, and went, a way to scat a;id III.. I I..' I I ..1 ..I . ' -I'l .. .... . ,.., ,i,-hiii ,,i ism, c. I ll'Tr n. t turn il or insect, a little iiiitiiiuler.st indium t'uat she w.v oii-!:U' tive to the '"" " i to explain. Now how gray and diiil was life! The dear mother j gone, and though doubtless she watched . over her daughter, human even cannot titi'm lotions Tiie r H i i u' iin-t ih'-l i'oy in: in India, is sai l t tlT'irts to rid that ci uiitry o aniinaN and rep! ilex which d"t.-oy human live, and m nee nie i.nve:.!!.). in -nakc utile ii. au- theve lovinj; iiii-cIh. The aunt ay in ri.i.liiiu' the cmiiitiy of tiiein. ; marric il ; one in California, one in Colo- Four-footed lieat and rep'ile destroyed '"''i i" Canada, with families of -"..'t.-l hiincm I., in-, and :,:,.MIIJ head U"'ir "W'.'' V"' fi,,,l,"r '1""'-l. ""' ..... : Hie terrible iIIim-hs that followed his ,1,,,U' '' life's sudden death, to ;, tretabiin-, ' ' Uerulou shadow, who requited all her Wnat i nice lai.-e old emiatry Kuvsin h.ve and tcndeincs by finding fault with S t' be sure, ob-erves the t'hic.'lg'l 1T for having been botn II girl. Jln:,l.f. A recent ukase condemns ,,.,.. A son never Would have ma.!e the phone, a, d,i'..;eious to the State." ' ,f,: !' 1 ".an H. comfortable, wait . . ., ... ... ' him so patiently, Kpaied him ho much. I.ut it u only,,, bl, ,g Poland that The -bound girl," little llmnali Jane, the order for tin ir Mi;.prc-ion is to in from th- poor-house, was bright and ( lifmc'd. In Wai-saw the police hav , Irai table, but tjiere was still much lo do ; be n directed to remove them from nl "" w ",,,:,n 'orK , t liouuli ; nothing that ri 'l.iurants, eoirce houses, li.pu r saloon n I other places of public resort. When ever any fellow wants to ti in 1 out I. mi frei' Aim ri a is, let him ' idy tiie va;;a rie cf Kussian tyranny. Stanley's wank in Africa is of liig'.i rulne the more one hears of it. It ap .ear that among the things he h.-.s set tied are these: The Congo traced from could keep the heavy mortgage from foreclosing-, or tiie man who fanned what ! late! tin re was left '-on shares" from 'heating them in. mercifully ; nothing1 thai brought money in. l'hobe lelt thai, and il pained her! more thati the thought that her thirtieth I birthday was loe at Land, though no i woman ever lived who did not shrink from that thought with a shiver of horror. i Wiping the tears nwav, Misj I'ho'be left the table ami took up the newspaper V...., V. ..... t . I watershed of the Nile u.id the V.'Z-'y ,' ' "' I""" s. vhu h s.e read lo her father every day, rVstiMi': li l::i,)sl iib .i'cle nr mf l-i il i .. i.: . i i ' i "no "o.i .i was aiiuosi ins only jiieasure. Lake Yictoih'. is t'.ie largest body ol She glanced down the column of deaths the sea to its he, discovery of the lVe.sii water in the. wcild. and that mi. lent '.Mountains of the il.mii'' haw their equivalent name i:i the inodeir Kuwcn.ore, the liigiiest peak of whiej li" istiu.ates to be IS, (KM) fret in altitu.i and which is eutir ly snow -capped fo l-'il'il feel. I ! , . I n:ni marriages, aim si.w mere no mime that siie knew. She read an account of tin- appearance of the ca serpent at the shore near a certain hotel, and of a frightful murder that made her blood run I conl. She rend the wise vronis of the weather prophet, who predicted a rising barometer, and glanced over tiie adver tisements. "Soil. kins' clcclri ,lln . i I .... a I . . i . !.'.,. , .. ;., , , , r , ... imi.on. waiiani"i lo cure evervtliiii ot'ercii testimonials from Kings ..ml war- ' cev.:,i,s lo l.ml.1 runways .:, Kgypt t. rio.s, and tempted h-r to g.. ,!.,-.v audi i.Miian roi, tract : an a idit io.ul p;-oot biy one for pa - or would, had she had! of the o.aliinalioti of tiie I'.wers in I hi' nioiicy to t hfnw a.vay on a cruel iiu j tcn-trd again! her waning inlhicnc I l","r''- I ihi-iv. Its roads wil! not pay, an I tin .N'.'w Vo:k '' VtVixi thinks !. ii:i .!c.. pi ' ted t'.ia' they v.iil; but lie lii nna:. lioVclr.l.'.CIU l;illt protect die interest! el the sh.ireiiol.leiv , and thus anothei cation will gain a foot hold in the lain 'of the I'haraohs. Whether this per ile;ii elv:r.io:i of its iatluence iibroaii is a wise p:,!iiy for (icrmatiy to purui th-: future alone can decide, but :'t ii certainly a costly on", and the opposition in the .Ich.vstag view it with no favor uble eves."' The phenomenal growth of the West. r,i I'iti .'S of our con urycai not be l.cttei illustrated than ly u statement whicli appeared recently in the Chi 'ago papers. The' ;ay that a lady of sity fight yean rec ently died in that v it y w h se ii'olhci was ntta 'ki d and torn t pic-cs by a pack of wolves, n-.'ar l!ie spot which ii i.ow the irner of Twe:,ty sit'.i am) State streets, !il that l ily. It was fifty years ago that this unfortunate l.ldv, who lived in what was then the uiit-kirts ol Chicago, was going h i'iicw ard late o n. ul'enioo:i. afte- a iu ipi::g cipi'dition in the vil'iige. Shu w is overt ikcn by a i'l ..ird ;.:,d s;:t dow n at this spot tn Rait until its Inry should have been --nt . Su-h'.etily sue was attacked h. wolv.s, with the dreadful results abovi fee .rded. Tiie tir.it grain cleaior in St. Piters ourg has been oll'n ial'y ( pivied and blessed ly the clergy. So iiiuch ha, been written about the necessity of grain elevators in Ku-sia that this beginning is consi Icivd an iu.;n rtaiit event in fact, so i npoilaut that ll.c. Minister of Com unit). cut ions and tm nbers of Senators 4iid high otllcial-i were present nt the eieii oiiy, and l o fewer ttiau three extrn uud special tr..hiH wcni run frou town to tiie new port, where the elevator is Minuted, for the coiivenieiiei! of the 2(10 or .'.HO persons invited. This elevator is mi a large scale, capublo of dealing with t'O, ooil, 00(1 poods of corn duriug tho navigable sexson of tho Neva. It wiil be u great boon t the graiu shippers, as hitlerto there has only been a small flout ing elevator at Croiistudt, belonging ta the IhiglUh shipowners, Mesjs. Wilton niiKKS,. i n, iN KKCKIPT (if TI-.N ; eei ;i . , sta!lll"'l tl'.'l ! i I'.'. I . .-) ' ' veoi... w ill s.'.el to miy lifi v or gmitleuiaii III"" tli'l.s linv. to II, like II fnl llltle lit. tlieir UW l llull,!-,. i She w.i not much impressed by this inagiiiticent oiler, lint here was some- ; thing . "Al'AXTKI) IN oirp. OI'KICK, . I.AIJY u of o.ik-it ion nml i i'liiii'ini'i.t, a goo. talker, wlio lias rciul ii great ileal. Salary llfty clollars r week. Apply ai once in pec- i ton. Clllll ' li mi Illlx-i' iic.-r-i ce.l I ( D..KN ('ii., .No. street. 'Dear me!" inied Plnebe to herself, "fifty dollars a week! I think I am re filled. I certainly have had a good edu cation. 1 read everything 1 can get to reid. I am a church member. If I could get the place I could g'i to busi ness regularly, liken man. Give pa most ot the fifty dollars a week, save the place, perhaps, and certainly buy the electric cellar button." isions of her father restored to heidth nml vigorous old age; of (he mortgage paid olT; of herself kneeling at her father's feet while his hands rested on her head and said. "My daughter. I no longer regret that (iod never gave nie u Hon, since lie scut me you," rushed through her mind. She slipped front the big hoi'sc-hair covered arm-chair, mid, kneeling before it, hid her face i:i its great dimpled back, and with her hand kerchief to her cye.i, prayed to l,e helped. And w he n she arose it seemed to her that a .str ing, unseen hand I 'd her; that there could be nothing to fvar or dread; noth ing betore her but success. She gave her father his breakfast w ith many smiles, and fairly laughed when he said: "Now, if you were' a boy you muld just go along with inc. to the polls and vote for Piillinghiiiu. I want that limn to be eleete I ; he's got tlei right views nbout propcty. Hut you're a girl, poor thing a girl." Little he knew what was in her mind. She read the political articles through and had just tinui to catch the train, giv ing Hannah Jane directions for the din ner. "If I get tho place old Mrs. Williams must come and live hero," she said to herself, as she walked. "I'd feel per fectly safe then; and she'd bo glad to have the spare room and her hoard." A fresh color was on her cheek, nnd a bright sparklu in her eye. us she stepped into the ear. Hho wore her very best thiugs precious and well wived but bho must Lok her Inst. And she did; for hope is as ;re.it a bcautitW us fresh botitiut atringi.aud whjti reaching No. (.treet she climbed tint long uud lather dirty stairs until 'she reached the ollieu of Cogieu & Co., with a hopeful heurt. Tb door of the room itood open. The opposite roof wrre risible through the unshaded winrlowi. Home girlii stood at a table folding amphlet; other wit at another directing cuvelope. I'ehind barricade of walnut-desk and iron railing sat a portly gentlennn. bland, and wear ing a good deal of w hite hair, from which a pair of round, black eyes, and it rery round nose, blackened at the nostrils with snuff, peered out and nave, hiin tho appearance of one of those modle which belles of years ago wcru fond of currying about with them. Another 1ml y, with downenst cycn, was gliding from the room; and another wotn-in, with rnther a ronrso manner, to.ed her head In indignation aa she pushed past the tirst. "Poor things! they have npplied for the place and have not got it," said Pho'be; but she could not feel sorry. Tin- portly gentleman ar se behind Ms Milings ns she Icokcd toward hiui and bowed. "Walk in," he said. Plnebe also bowed politely. "Your advertisement" she faltered. "Yes, yes," said the gentleman, "I understand. We have had throngs of ladies here. H'ni! Sit down." "I do not know what your position is, sir," said Pinebr, feeling very brave utmost lik5 the son her father had always wished for, she thought; "but I run do my best. I have an education. I ntn a church member. 1 read a good dent. I think I can talk it little on a subject I iimlerstand. Ami amongst so many books" she glanced at the shelves "I certainly should find the employment congenial; only I must go out of town every night." "That would be very easy," suid the g iitlcman. "You could arrange your hours to suit yourself. You are exactly the person we want. I see in your fare that expression I look for in vain in so many faces intelligence." The gentle man gave a little leap on his chair and spread his hands abroad. "Vivacity!" II" repeated tiie action. "And with n fine personal .appearance. Y'otl are the very woman we. need. I speak in a purely business way. We must think of the" things. You suit us." Could it be? Could it be? Phil-be trembled with joy. Fifty dollars a week her dreams reulied her fattier happy ! Meanwhile the genthnan arose from his seat . "This," said he, taking a thick vol ume from a shelf, "is the volume." Piio'be looked at it with a happy smile, and waited for more. "Have you ever taken subscriptions?" asked the gentleman. "No," said Pho be; "but I " "Ah, yes, yon will be very successful, I ntn sure," said tlie gentleman. "We give you a list of streets, numbers, names of residents. You call with the book, ask to see Mrs. So and So or Mr. So and So; send up your name; your card is preferable, You rise when the person enter, say: 'How do you do, Mrs. So and So? I feel that you would be In ter, '-ted in this w ork, and called to show it to you.' You then talk in such a man ner 1 lint the person subscribes for thu book. On receiving thu motley, wc give you the percentage. You see" "Yes," said poor Pho'be, who, under til.' revulsion of feeling, was on the verge of a fainting lit. "Yes. It is like the mail with Dos.in's Family Medicine,' and the other books, who come to our house sometimes, liut von give lifty dollars a week.'" "Fifty, dear madam !" cried the man, laughing, and rubbing his hands gayly. "At ten rents on each book, you run easily get a hundred subscribers a day six hundred a week; sixty dollars for the six days' work. With your mesmeric jxiwer I see it in your eyes you will make more." Poor Phielie began to feel better. It would be terrible work; not nt nil what she supposed ; but anything, anything for father and the homestead! "This is u specimen copy," said the gentleman. "You buy this little book for your names. It has a pencil at tached; twenty-five rents. And you leave one dollar deposit for the book." ' Is that, necessary f" asked Phielie. "Well, we exact it of nil," said the amiable Mr. Co.en. "What would you have? We can't make exceptions; ue should offei:d others." Phielie paid the dollar and n quarter, took thu book, and walked away, glanc ing ut the outline of her "bent," which was tar up town. The book was a collection of rereipts, advice tu youth, selections from Bryant's poems, uud fun from old jest books. Poor Pho be! she hoped against hoie, as the street cars took her lip-t wn, uud still cherished much more ol that com forting emotion than could have been expected, when her feet touched the red hot flagstones of Fifty-seventh street, and the tall r -sidences stared down at her with half their doors closed with those wooden barriers, they say to nil who look, "Family gone to Kuropu." Hut yet there were steps that might In climbed, and -Miss .Mu.nford climl.ed thrin patiently. She saw u sweet, old lad,', who beamed on her and said : "We've such u large library now we au't really add t i it. There's nut room in the house for another book." She saw sarcastic lady who said:. "Greatly obliged for the attention. It is a wonderful book wonderful, but I couldn't understand it. I have to read lighter things. My bruin, you know, won't, bear too much." She suw a contemptuous young lady, wlio simply shook her head and run for a footman to "show this person out." Then she saw a grandpapa, with a dyed moustache and an eye-glass, who was gallant and offensive. Then she re ceived n any "not ut homes" from ungry servutits, v.'tio knew Lcr errand well, uud felt that they had been troubled to open tho door unnecessarily. After many long, hot, wasted hours sho found that her next mi nber was a drug store uud entered it, tlmndful for its cool shadow, hho was hot, thirsty, wretched. Sho lonocd for it glass of tho ice-cold sodu wiuer, but hud only a little change, which mubt serve for fare, in her pocket. She stood before the counter and re peated her little story her talk about the book. The druggist smiled a he glanced at the volume. 'I ould not half such drash in mine house," he said. "You Tasto your dime mit a book like dis." "It seems worthless to me," said poor Ph(ple, sighing. "You jret dook in, like some oder bcoplcs, mit dem rascals," said the Ger man. "You look dircd, maduinc, and not veil, (lo homo and rest I otvisc you ns a doctor." A customer, who had been looking at her, threw down the price of n tooth brush ho had bought, and seizing his purchase, followed Phiebo out of tho door. "Let me see your book, madam," ho said. "Very nice; I'll subscribe. Giro me your book. I'll writo my name and residence." lie did so. Pho-be thanked him, and tried to read it, but tho letters danced before her ryes. Her head was so hot, so heavy, she must go back to Mr. Cor., .en's, get her dollar, give in her sub scription, tell him that sho had failed. She would feel better after she had rested, she thought better. How kind that man had been. Hut he subscribed for her book sho knew it well out of sheer pity; as one gives alms lo n beg gar. She wits In Mr. Corzcti's ofhYo again. He looked at her out of his bush of white tiair. His black eyrs and black noso more poodle like than before. She had wasted her day, risked sun stroke, failed in her effort, nml crushed her hopes. What did lie care, if he had one subscription more? A book agent was almost sure to get one, and hundreds toiled over tlie earth every day with the same results. "Very foolish to give it up so," he de clared. "The lir.-t day never counts. I have ladies on my list making a hundred dollars a week w ho got no subscribers on the first day, and Oh, your dollar? Yes, yes! And here is your percentage ten rents Ihit you ought not to de spair when you have secured tlie name of Captain IJarton on your list. "Well, good day." She was gone, threading the streets that led to the ferry. The boat first; then tlie train. Was that the truin coming f What a roar! How black it whs! She staggered, but sho did not full to the ground. Some one, caught h-.-r in his arms. Out of darkness, out of rest, out of strange communion with her mother in another world, Plvebe floated back to life again. A woman sat beside her and fanned her. ".she's nil right now," said a voice of the family-doctor order. "Only faint ness; not sunstroke." Then peace again; and waking, much better. "My poor fattier!" she sighed. "IIo must bo so terrilied! Some one has been so kind; but let me get to my father ut once." "All in good time," said tlie motherly woman nt her side. "Your fattier won't be anxious, Piio'be,'' said a man, and her only sub rrriher stepped where she could see him. "I found your name and address in your little note-book. I went and told him you'd be home to-morrow. You don't remember me, Pho'l eJ" Phfi'bo smoothed her dres and sat up on the chintz, couch ntid 1 Hiked at the speaker. "You subscribed for my book," she said. "Hut before that," said the man. "He fore I had a beard, and wentauuy to sea w ith no hopes of being Captain. Don' you know Hilly Harton, Pho'lie?"' "Oil!" cried' Pho be. "Is it you?" "I thought I knew you,,' said Captain Harton. "I followed you, wondering if I dared speak; and you looked so ill. So I was there when you fainted." lie t.iok her hand, and held it, nnd lifti'd it to his lips before he put it dow n. "Tlie same sweet girl," he said, softly. "Goo l-night. Peggy will take good enro of you. Kvery one wlio falls sick ut this hotel knows Peggy." Hy next morning Plnebe was well again, but Captain iiartou iusleted on see ing her home. "What did pa say?" sheaskjd. "Are you sure ho was not worried?" "Ho said," replied the Cuptuin, with a smile, "that girls ure never to be depended on, nnd that if he had had a sou ho never would have cut up such pranks. Phirbi! felt tho tears rise to her eyes. "Tho old gjntler.iun is very much broken," said Captain Harton. "Ho does want a son as well as daughter; don't you think so, Phil-be ?" When ho said that, he looked like the Hilly Harton of the long-gone times, A few months afterward ho asked tho same ipiestion. adding: "Won't I dof" And so it came to pass that Plurbe, in. stead of ending her life as it solitury spinster, married a man who loved tier truly. Tlie mortgage was paid oil tho old pluce, auj thu farm was no longer managed on shares. And the old gentle man, what, with freedom from care, and luxurious living, grew stronger and brighter in every way; much fonder of his daughter, ti o, as in the oldeti time. So that one day, when Plnebe Harton came down to breakfast, uud sat waiting for those oilier two, and thinking of thu day with which this story begins, sho laughed softly to herself, und declared: "And I'm reully the happiest woman in the world to-day, 1 believe, after till." The Uihtr. How lie kcr-m Healthy. This is w hut a physician suys: "I ntn seventy years of age. I riso early, go through a courso of dumb-boil exercise, take u cold bath, rub myself well with soup, empty a jug of cold wuter over my self, sponge and rub down with a rough towel. 1 drink no alcohol, wear no flannel winter or summer, shave clean and never spend more than twenty iniu utes over my toilet." l'MUddliin Ikcord, Many a man has cost a shadow on hi life by standing in his own light. Phila dilphitt Inquirer, WOMAN'S WORLD. PLKASAVT LITER ATtTIlK FOU FKMIVIXE READERS. MKSKSCK OF MIKD. Near Eastatiago, a smrtll station on tho Georgia Pacific Railroad, Miss Betty Emmons was walking alviR the track when she discovered that the spikes had heen drawn nnd a rail removed. Just as she made tho discovery Miss Emmons heard the roar of an npproachsng pas senger train, which was running at high speed. Sho knew the train would lie wrecked if sho did not stop it, nnd she did not hesitate an instant. She wore a red flannel petticoat, and hastily tearing it off, ran toward the nppronching train, waving the garment across the track. Tho engineer saw tho signal in time to stop the train. tVhen the passengers learned of their narrow cscnpo nnd Miss Emmons's coolness they at once mnde up a handsome purse and presented it to her. Mew York Telryrmn. TATTOOKD OIRI.S. In Algeria every girl born of native parents is tattooed on her foruhe.-.d be tween the eyebrows and just on tho root of tho noso with a cross formed of several straight lines of small stnrs running close together. These tattoo marks are a dark blue color. Algerian women are also considerably tattooed on tho backs of their hands, their forearms nnd chests, as well as on their shoulders, their wrists being especially adorned with drawings representing bracelet und flowers strung together. As a rule, women nrc tho operators, and it is principally on chil dren between the nges of seven and eight tlint they have to e.xerciso their art. They use sometimes a needle, but more frripiently a Harbary fig tree thorn-. They employ kohl as a coloring substance. It is n kind of line powder made from sulphur of antimony, whicli is nlso in great ropiest by the Algerian women for the purposes of fare painting. Vukf. HOW TO KSCAI'K l'SF.CMOXIA. .fust how tlie fashionable woman who nppears night after night in tho Metro politan Opera House clad in a tulle I dress, kid gloves nnd slippers nnd a I jifarl necklace manages to cscupe pneu monia must ever remain a problem to vex nnd bother the doctor and philosopher. These lovely creatures are certainly en dowed with great endurance, whatever may be said of their sense. Perhaps, as (.'arlylo said, "Vanity is warmer than down nnd pride rivals the robe of er mine." Hut to get nt facts 1 put thu ipu-stion to n pretty little creature who never read a line of tlie sage. "I don't feel cold at all," sho said, "in evening Iress. Just before dressing I bathe my neck, nrms and shoulders in glycerine and rose water, and after drying with n course towel 1 have my maid rut) me down with alcohol. I don't need this at nil, but I do it to please papa. I think, however, it is a good idea, for my flesh never gets goosey, and this is my sec-mil season, and I haven't had a cold yet. Then I always wear n very warm wrap in the carriage, und when I get home I take a warm bath and goto bed." Alio York Wirl,L TKIIMS I'SKt) 11V IMU'tssMAKElt. Some of thu phrases used in dressmak- , ing ure perfect Greek to the unknowing, j ho I add u short list of the words uud their meanings. An apron is any sort of I a draped skirt front; u t.iblier is a flat iiudr.ipi'd skirt front ; a full buck means j ii straight back to the skirt gathered in j two or more rows ut the top; a panel is a straight pitreo for tho front or sides, set 1 in between a trimming of some kind to convey tho idea of an inlay; a Spanish flounce is one reaching from the knees down, nnd gathered to form an erect rullle. Knife pleats are very narrow side pleats, nml accordion pleats ure still nar rower nnd pressed into shapo by ma chinery; kilt pleats uro those turned one way, nnd box pleats have a fold to tin right side and one to tho left; double and triple box pleats have two or three folds on either side; a "kilt" means a skirt en tirely of kilt pleats. A "drop" skirt is one of the dress matcriul made up inde M iident of tho lining, and then hung or dropped over it from tho sumo belt. A border is any trimming put on tho edge or just above it. Armurcsilk has a bird's eye or draper weave; faille Francaiso has a soft cord, moLvo has water waves over Its surface; tricotrinu is sometimes called iirmuro surah from its lines of bird's eye weaving; surah has almost invisible cords and is very soft. llme Journal. goes through a process Y. . . - comes to us in l!a n. 'J " M Cleoelmd riaintealer. ' Dwr-M-irsoa ton iror.,OWo Among new Ideas for the ",' womankind is the English dies' chambers, " or dwell!,,... . inirwotnen. Th . .. I)r or opened a few week i ' Is five stories high, divided Zn7t tvn tl.ron .,1 ...... ,n, liSt ...... ..... luoiiH.eneh ,.. . with a rooking stove. The L irom to i.i a week , bo had, and there nrc, of C(,r,e Tn, ,' am! 1 miner I. nil f. . l' Sltll have no cooking done in n' rooms. The rooms nr. .,. !:. . 0 ty and convenient, fitted with ti-i,?,1" larders, and so forth v...i. '' "v ... . . . . J-"' ll (NTH,.. win lurmsii iier own i" where two friends live t.uf..ii.... fortablo household nppoiiitnM.nt, Th is a prosjH-ct that this English ' . be Imitated In New York bv Imli, nected with the Wniti.i.'.' v , At the last annual meeting, n-ci nt'h at Mrs. Henry Villard's horn-, C .Z interesting event was the report f Cundace Wheeler embodying ti, ' sition that the Woman's Hotel j,!,,'1 which many wealthy men m,, . have been pushing for t., V(w' combined w ith the present Kx. h.y! and that a largo building be cMtrj" their joint occupancy. Tin- id. , lie to use the lower floor f,,r ti1(. j f'l.Alirrn Hint Mm iin,.r incuts for women. Since the ,-x,Ll. was started it has paid out a iiiillin hirs to needy women f,,r ti,,.jr work, besides training lniinlr. d. women to he self-supporting. nh0 ii , Knew limning bdoiii using tH lr and bruins in prolltabl l-itrv j- proposed to make n grand .-xfuliit women's work ut the World's f,,;r .; will illustrate the progress rJ,.,. women in nrt nnd industry frne, liest tinio up to lS'.l'J. S'nr )',..;',.' ll.I.'DtlKssK.II IIOMTON WiiMKV, T I it... his ii'iiiiii mat, iiosiuii w i ni n r I ncvcrclalin the title of being we'd 'In-, li.. -..!... l... e - . j mini i uu irvr iiiuy jo injure tut! iavoriitile venlict, there is ahviy, the .1 : . i t . . iniiiiry, uncorscieii nygietiic m t j r; f v i iMiiiii-raci ii. ii OHIO lie lwivw, were it not pathetic, to nut.- the h -comings in this one direi tiim ( . average noston woman. M,e hj , much opportunity, as many m,., dressing well us women . bewhir,-, she invariably fails in prodie-iu tin 'I led which strikes the observer iu i York. Ilegard the throngs ,,f E who daily pass up and down !).,;,. street, for instance, and point ut t"-n. i you cun, who become their i Ii.th.s, who carry themselves with gru. . t ganre. Nearly all have been to fihin uble tailors, who have lci:ic wh it h -. . - . ' win. in incir power to give rue, 4.4 style; but the Host on woman instills: Sho will not permit her precini-i-ivels tions to bo displaced by the newest Ions; sho will not wear a corset; l;n wear a Hygienic waist, n she w.rituJ sho won't wear her hair exciit mi, i 1 she will kick up her skirts at the cause her gymnasium teaeln r t' !l be bring all the muscles into pi.ty nluu . walks. Hcside this, she is in h.'ite. H i can she take life easily and gr.1!. wneii sixty iiinerent cans are o. ;r.g oJ on her time and brains all at i:u.' Ti art of wearing her clothe wi ll i . known to her. She put th -r.i'm. Hoes not make Her toilet. -a" umiuJ be guilty of "prinking." U"r is-;-surj tier boots were w :l lii. VJ.: would this usual Hot mi w.hi.i.i i' sider it worth her while to t ik. ,-. in mirror to see if tho angle of li- r -: corresponded with the augii nf InTfi tile and her black hair. I: is tl. nr I omissions, this forgetfuln- "l it. I which renders two-third nt ' n'ir j dowds in the eves of at erni.t!.' though critical, observers. ,? 1 IIAIK OIINAMKNTS. The old-fu-shioncd hair necklace nnd bracelets, with which wo ure so familiar nnd which lire plaited in tint strands uud fastened with u gold clasp, can bo made for 11), and certainly this is a pretty ornament to wear as a souvenir of a lost relative or friend. Another design, cither for neck luce or bracelet, is of three narrow bauds, clasped with gold at regu lar intervals, and n cross of hair of dif ferent color, with the cuds tipped with gold, may bo attached to the necklace, mirking an ornament that would adorn any neck. Kings made like serpents, with a gold hcud mid tail mid llery jeweled eyes, lire popular, while narrow braids of gold, with hair plaited and inlaid, protected by an outer covering of gold, with two hands closely clasped, astonish us when wo find they really can unclasp and re veal tho hair beneath. These rings can lie made for $4, 3 und 10, uud any de sign that is suggested cun bo executed ia a short space of time. A pair of sleeve buttons, with tho hair resembling a puff and kept iu place by a fine twisted gold wire, is un attractive desigu, nnd a scurf pin and a watch chain complete, this sot, which is a pretty and ilurublu present for a man to receive. Charms can be made in great varieties hearts, anchors, crosses, harps und various other designs at a small cost. The process of working tho hair is braiding it ou small pieces of metal, about seven iuches loug. uud thvu it FASHION NOIK. Very largo Directuire mi;:ls arc irn.l both iu Pans and London. Sleeves are set iu well up im tiif b'. ders, ami colors are straight a:w -l ately high. Portia fans of white o.triiii f'-'-i with flowercentres nnd jeweleil hi: uro very fashionable. Tho ideutity of dresses is lt a'A unprecedented amount of pasi-n.in' '1 und embroidery used nowadaj. Tln.r.i ,,r,i ,.r..tl- mm. I stv'il I '""I .... .s. ...s. '.s.v with short buck, very long fr "!' sleeves inude of a series of r.)ii'. The latest Parisian novelty m i 1 has a a small purse inserted in th' i"- wherein women cun carry tir ir tickets uud small coins. Stvlish sets i if ciubroidi rv eu mav now lie obtained, nil r-.i-iy !'r' Tlietf en. i. ..rise n lot." L"ilis X.H culls, revers, collar uud purse'. Klcini.it. little dress bonli. t from are made of Muck velvet trimniel shaded velvet leaves. 'I deep vari-colored foliage rich. Would-be English fa waterproofs and storm wear a Leeds check tt iiin -l coachman's rape or short carry nn umbrella. Heavy red U-nther glov.- buttons are the correct style or ridiiiL' or driving. liny ----- r-, - - n - big that tho wearer may 'I"'1 u-!tlif,iil it ttii.imi f . ,rf 4 l a..:.. . i. .mi- il I iV uouse louei oi e ".i""v chic miiT bo inudo with "I1' skirt of w hite ulnucu and Frt-nca'- of line white cashmere shoulder pieces uud full sleeve- Mantles nro vuriei 1 in f.iim: 1 ns widens those worn lift)' )Tan"vJ .. , . .hen t tiie tiuys our great-gianma-" i ...1 l I.'...:...- ... eVIiL'Lf'M wiioiesoiuo summing , L . ...... I,, ,.l.Lr t1... i.inu rerii-u"1'' I - - j White sutiu slippers ai-coiupDJ 1 gloves, tan-colored or gru J worn with gloves ol the ' . , o,.i.,.,i i,uuu .iimncr ui-wc "ess fabric, with stocking ton 'lie tTr t of- CV'f'-" - ,lli..!.lll'' ,lt. ' suit j- i:a ' i. .r 0111 l If1 'J ... V. XL I ' .
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers