i I " '! f i S I: THE CHAMBERED NAUTILUS. By Oliver Wendell Holmes. Of tlie life of tlif lata Oliver Wendell. Holme (1800 1904) B. W. Orlswold, the rriiic, snys: "J)r. Holmes wns a poet of wit And humor and gonial acntiment, with a style remarkable for its purity, terseness and point, and for an exquisite, finish and grace, His lyrics ring and apnrkle like cataracts of silver, and his serious pieces ar rest the attention by touches of the most genuino pathos and tenderness." This is the ship of pearls, which, poets feign, Sails the unshadowed main The venturous bark that flings On the Sweet Summer wind its purpled wing In gulfs enchanted, where the Siren sings, And coral reefs lie bare. When the cold sea-tnaids rise to sua Their streaming hair. Its webs of living gauze no more unfurl; Wrecked is the ship of pearl! And every chambered cell. Where its dim dreaming life was wont to dwell, As the frail tenant shaped his growing shell,, - lieforo theu lies revealed Its iri-scd ceiling rent, its sunless crypt unseated! Year after year beheld the silent toil That spread his lustrous coil; Still, as the spiral grew, lie left the put year's dwelling for the new. Stole with soft step its shining archway through, lltiilt up its idle door, Btrctchcd in his last found home, and knew the olJ no ir3r- Thanks for the heavenly message brought by tho Child of the wandering sea, Cast from her lap forlorn! From thy dead lips a clearer note is honw Than ever Triton blew from wreathed horn! While on mine ear it rinss. Through the deep caves of thought I hear a voice thai '.::(-. A vone that sings: Build thee more stately mansions, O my soul, As the swift seasons roll! Leave thy low-vaulted past! Jt each new temple, nobler than the last, fchut thee from heaven with a dome more vast, Till thou at leneth art free, Leaving thine outgrown shell by life's unresting sea! A String of Beads and a Queen of the Adriatic. A Charming Love Story of Old Venice, a P.cdgo and tho Falling of a House of Cards. 1T HE whirr of a lathe? fell upon I . the close, hot air of the nnr ylj row Venetian Htrect, the Via Bardo, while the sharp click of hammer on chisel marked a stronger note In the Industrial symphony. Away toward the Grand Canal a blue-hloused fisherman pried bis wares, nnd Mere Bieordo's shrill nnd kindly chatter rose and fell as children stopped and bought her cherries nnd apricots. "The mother Is lu good spirits," snid Pletro In the carpenter's shop, as lie deftly Inserted Ills sharp chisel between a cupld's wing, and carved a shred away to make the feathers still more downy. The lathe hummed on, for Nolo, his comrade, worked by tho piece, aud wauted to earn enough to buy those corals which hunt; In Zcno's little shop across the bridge: he did not care to atop Uls wheel aud gossip. "She is In good spirits," continued IMetro, "because the American sign or a' tins taken a fancy to the little one, and declares she will take her to Paris and train her as her maid." The lathe ceased turlng go suddenly that the banister which wag being carved was almost Jerked out; then, with a touch on the iron clamp to see all wag right, Nello bent to his work again. "Little Bosa herself Is delighted; she was to have been put to the Venetian lace school, but prefers to see the world." "The child Is but sixteen," sold an other worker. "Tho slgtiora will scarce liave a maid so young as that." "Have I not told you," said Pletro, (letting up and strolling toward the door, "that the slguora has taken a fancy to Bosa? And when these Amer icans take Ideas Into their heads they carry thein through. Iiosa has a pretty face, and the handsome eyes of the true Venetian." He rolled n cigarette with the air of a connoisseur. "Mad ame likes handsome faces about her, therefore tho pretty Iiosa Is to accom pany the slgnora to Paris." "How soon?" It was Nello who spoke sow. "In a fortnight In a week In three tloys I do not know! Bah! what does It matter? There Is the clock of San Marco striking! (iood night, Nello. You work as If the evil one turned your wheel." The merry Pletro passed out Into the street. Other workers rose, stretched their wearied arms, shook their blue washed blouses free of chips aud turned homeward. Only Nello worked on, his 'lathe humming steadily now that no disturbing tongue voiced news which Interrupted the regularity of the guiding hand. Then followed two days when the hum of tho lathe sounded for longer hours In succession thau ever before, Dare he offer the gift? But he bad not bought It yet could not, until tho four Uras were saved out of the scanty wage. A fortnight a week three days which? The ldlo words were full of torturing uncertainty. "in uttie icosa win come back a rich woman; her wages will bo a thou sand Uras. I hear." said the cosslnlnc I'letro. "She will save a One dot while away, and come bnck when she is thirty." "Thirty! When a woman is not worth looking at!" "True, but then yon must look at the dot!" And the worker laughed, all except Nello, from whose Hps came no sound. At last the day came when the four llraa were In hi band. He burrled to tbe little shop where those red bead hupg so temptingly, and hi heart beat bleb with hope a be touched their smooth surface lovingly. How they would become the little Bosa! How ber treat eye would sparkle wltb pleasure when Nello told ber they were for ber vtry own! A hundred times be rehearsed tbe seine as be sat at bis work. He would watcb ber face as she opened the little parcel. Perbaps she would let bint clasp tbem round ber throat. II bad never told Rosa of bis love except In dumb, faithful way. as dog may who serves bis mistress and guards ber always, satisfied with m careless word tf approval or pasting luur.. uiii io-dii:iii d would tell ber. for be would soon be earning good wMV'5aJ?L,.noi.u' lil uncle's heir to the business at the carpenter shop? Nello thought himself lucky indeed to find the little Bosa at home In her grannie's tiny room. Come out on the canal? Of course she would. Her laughter sounded softly as an accompaniment to the swish of the oar lu the water. Nello, from his place as gondolier on the graceful craft, looked down on tho little figure enveloped In the thin, black-fringed Venetian shawl. The night wag warm and she tossed it aside. "I shall have done with this when I am In Paris with the slgnora." "Nothing will ever become you so well, Bosa, as your snawl." Her laughter rippled again. "No, It Is black and ngly; I love bright colors." They had reached tho Bio Santa Maria della Salute. He guided the gondola to the low steps, and came down from the poppe. See, Bosa," he repeated, dangling the corals licfore her eyes, "they are the color of your Hps; and you will wear them as a pledge." She held out ber hand. "SI, I will wear them " Her eyes were sparkling. But hod Nello been less In love himself he would have questioned the light that hone there. He gave the beads to her, murmur ing again: "As a pledge. And you will come to me when I write that your home Is ready for you?" "Yes, yes." She leaned over the boat's sldo to see tho effect In the reflecting water. It was evidently satisfactory, for she turned to him with adorable candor. "I shall wear them often," she said; that Is, if the slgnora will allow me. And If she will not, I shnll take them out of my little trunk, and look at them when I am alone, because " "Because?" said Nello, hungrily. "Because." she added, airily, "they are so pretty." He was sitting by ber sldo now on the greafltlack leather-cushioned seat. "My uncle has promised to give me a share In the carpenter's shop when I am twenty-fa ve." ho said; "and then 1 shall write. And you will come to me, little one?" "Yes, yes!" she assented, eagerly. Slio longed to bo alone with her new treasure. His Insistence annoyed ber. The short, sharp Venetian winter came and passed; the months sped on, rounded their circle and commenced another year. The year that was horn was to be full of happiness for Nello Llscouraz. Was not bis uncle dead, and he tho owner of his shop, tbe em ployer of three workmen? But more than all, was be not even now awaiting the crown of bis Joy. Bosa Blcordo? Tor once tbe bum of bis busy lathe wag silent; the merry Pletro nudged his fellow, and whispered that the mas ter was moonstruck, his head turned since the good fortune had come to him. Nello heeded them not; ho was look ing out toward the Grand Canal, and listening with love-sharpened ears for n sound above the lively chatter of Mere Blcordo, for tbe cry of the post man who was to bring blm tbe answer from tbe girl be loved. It was a sound that came but seldom In that narrow wsy. The simple -folk, whose horizon was bounded by ttose sunbaked walls, held little commerce wltb tbe outside world, whoso mes sages of love, or life, or deatli were Dashed across wide seas or carried In the bosoms of snorting trains. She bad written him once a say. careless letter to tell blm bow haDDJ sue was, wnai urave signts she saw! The slgnora was kind to ber, sb her self wss becoming a slgnora she wore bat! Now ber answer tarried. lie hardly dared to think bow many suns had risen, burned and died, and siren way to tbe paler beauties of tbe nioon,, since he bad sent ber tbe good news, bsd told ber of the bom that awaited ber, and reminded ber of ber promise. - Wltb A stifled sigh be turned back Into tbe shop, and bent to bla work again... ensij' "Bbe 1 ttlll but a child." be told) blm elf, "and I am a dull fellow. Perhaps n has forgotten,', llo checked the thought as unworthy, and in the days that followed the whirr of his wheel was the busiest in the shop, till tho pcoplo wondered nnd whispered among themselves that it was strange, the master should work nt tho lntho early and late. Had Nullo, then, the making of a miser In blm? Llzotto Blcordo looked at him with tender, blue Venetian eyes. They reminded him of another pnlt that had laughed Into hlg own In the moonlight on tho canal, but they awoke no tender light In his own. Ho waited nnd trusted. Bosa must write soon. Every morning be rose expectant, every night he looked for tho morrow with unquenched hope. rietro stood In the doorway, rolling a cigarette In his strong brown lingers. His merry heart was saddened, for he alone of all the workers guessed the secret thnt hung heavy on Nello's heart, tho cloud thnt cast Its shadow ov his gentle face. "Tho American slgnora has turned the child's head; she will not return," he sighed. And as ho sighed tho cry of "La posta!" sounded hoarse ami long-drawn-out above the babel of voices. The letter had come; hu handed It te Nello, nnd left blm. Nello turned Into the darkness of the shop. Tho flimsy pink envelope bore a number of postmarks. Ho tore It apart, and it fell unheeded to the floor. No one heard tho cry that was wrung from his heart. They had left hlui alone with sorrow! She wrote lightly. He had thought too much of a moonlit night ou tho canal. There were maid ens lu plenty in the (.'alio to solace hi m. As for her, she was la no haste to return to dull Venice. The chatter of Mere Blcordo as she bartered her fruits to tho brown-eyed urchins floated. In and cut his heart. Bosa and he had played out there together, and one day ho had bought her promise to bo his little wife with a handful of cherries, he thought bit terly, as later he had bought iv with a string of brightly colored beads. He bent his head on his arms across the rough table, and two large tears fell down nnd mingled with tho shav ings nnd the sawdust. How suddenly his house of cards had fallen! He would forget he must forget- but tho dry sob thatracked him showed that the wound would be III to heal. It drowned the sound of a light, soft step. Ho did not see the girl who en tered and picked up the envelope. It? gayness marred with the delaying postmarks. Tho first he knew of bet presence was the pressure of a soft, warm arm, a whisper that was o caress. "'Tls 1, thy naughty Bosa. Canst forgive nie, Xello? I did not know my heart." And- Nello's Joy was crowned. New York News. Til Virtues of the Eskimo Dog. Of tlie Eskimo dog I could write a book. In all probability descended from tht wolf, it Is the Eskimo's one domes tic animal, but It Is of as much value to blm as all the domesticated nnlmals of more favored races put together. It drags him and bis family and their chattels from place to place; hauls to his door the meat of seal or walrus; leads him with unerring scent to the tiny orifice In the snow which Indicates the breathing bole of a seal; drags blm for miles in pursuit of the bear, nnd finally brings tbe huge brute to bay; rounds up the musk oxen till bis mas ter can come up for tbe kill, and then, perchance, In the darkness of some long winter night, when the band of hunger grips the settlement relentless ly, bo yields up bis life to feed bis mas ter and bis family, and his coat to keep them warm. Though mixed now with other strains, so that black and reddish and spoted dogs are to be seen as well as the pure blooded grays and whites, this nnlmal still retains to a large de gree the strength, endurance nnd fierce lust for food when In pursuit of game that characterized Its wild ancestors. Combined with these traits are an In telligence and faithfulness thut make many of these animals the peer of any of their more fuvored brothers in more genial ellmntes. Commodore Bobert E. Peary, in Leslie's Monthly. Dolus His Washing. A messenger boy. whose blue uni form hnd more than the usual number of grease spots, to say nothing of a few torn places, came Into the rear car of the "L" train und threw himself Into one of the cross seats: Opposite was a woman old enough to have been his grandmother, though the idea of sucb a grandson would have shocked ber. Tbe boy whistled a bar or two of the latest ltlnlto success, but stopped when he noticed tho look of pain on ber face. Ho took off his cap, and, pull ing out a dirty handkerchief, began to polish the brass sign which said that he was No. 3114. Tbe old woman was watching blm closely. Presently It shone to bis satisfaction nnd the cap was replaced on bis curly bead. For a short time he was content wltb doing nothing. .Then he loosened bis faded red necktie and took off his col lar. He moistened his handkerchief with bl Hps and began to scrub the piece of celluloid. A his handkerchief was as dirty as it well could be, tbe operation was hardly successful. "What are you trying to do, boy?" asked tho old woman, when she could no longer contain herself. 'This I Monday, so I'm doln me wsshln'," be answered, smiling. "You object any?" Now York Tribune. ' Robaos's Choice. Mr. Harper tells us all there Is to be told about Thomas Hobson, tbe famous carrier between London and Cam bridge, who died In 1031. It was from blm that the proverb of "Hobaon's choice," arose, meaning, of course, a choice which Is no choice. "Tbe saying arose from the livery stable business carried on by Ilobson at Cambridge la addition to bis carrying trade. He Is, indeed, said to bare been the .first who made a business of letting out saddle horses. His practice, invariably fol lowed, was to refuse to allow any horse In bis stables to be taken out of Its proper turn. That or none was bis unfailing formula, when the Cam bridge students, eager to pick and choose, would have selected their own fancy In horseflesh. Every customer wss served altie,wCT Lon don A&ofrajta,- mS- ISWSMMSMMMVVVVVMVIM-At WOMAN'S REALM. CLOTHES AND THE CIRL. College Students Clnsiinsri by One of Tlielr Numbor. "When n girl comes to n woman's college she usually decides upon the character of her uuknown classmates. Judging not by their voices, nor by their faces, nor even by their actions, but by the way they wear their clothes," says a woman's college stu dent, who thereupon proceeds with her classification. "She Ingeniously places these unfamiliar girls In four families, the Dowdies, the Prims, tho motherless Miss Fortunes, nnd those delightful friends, the Ladles de Bonhcurs. "The first family and Its relations are met everywhere. Their clothes are badly or Indifferently put on; buttons are missing, tears are frequent; sev eral loose pins hold the hair In place. One has no need to enumerate further. The Inky linger could not but hand In a smeary paper with sentences loosely constructed, and the thoughts strung together. No use to Inquire into her character; tho thoughtlessness, the carelessness reflect tho hrtliffercnf, don't cave nature. "As her opposites, tho MIsrcs Prim are ti pleasant contrast. Their clothes shine with constant brushing; buttons nnd fastcuors are abundunt; nnd yet there Is n stiffness, oftentimes nmount lug to hardness, In these demure sis ters. Like the shoulders of their dresses their work Is narrow. They do not come enough out of their shells to show their mi t lire. . "The old toast runs 'Here's to Dame Fort un?, may you never meet her daughter, Miss Fortune.' Yet there Is Foinetlilng pleasing nliont these girls with the startling bands on their arms, nnd with their well groomed nppear ance. Their English papers may often be careless, their moods changeable; In fact. It Is bnrd to distinguish be tween these girls, who flatter them selves on living n la- mode, but they are clean and cleanliness Is next to godliness. "And now. those jlrls nnd women who are extreme In nothing except, perhaps. In kindness. Their clothes are genial and friendly: If stylish they seem to have been made to give you pleasure; If unneat, yon know It is a mistake. The cheerful attractiveness exhales a loving, thoughtful disposi tion. Their work cannot but lie broad nnd sympathetic, their aim to help oth ers. "Psychologists saythat hnbits formed before the age of twenty-one are not enslly broken. The way girls dress during the years they spend In college Is tho keynote of their after character, nt least tho note sounded by the ordi nary passer-by." New York Tribune. Like Vet Unlike. " "Have you ever noticed," she said, "how much the setting of a person has to do with your liklug for them? I mean the place, or the people they are with. Some persons who are charming in one situation are not at all attrac tive In another, although they them selves mny bo precisely thefsnme. I remember, for instance," she contin ued pensively, "falling In lovo In Ger many, aud falling very much out of it In Loudon all on account of the differ ent point of view, for the man himself bad not changed, but my German sol dier baron, who seemed llko a hero of romance In Germany, looked so queer and different from tho Englishmen I knew when he came over to see me lu civilian's dress, thnt all my liking for him vanished." "Yes, I know how that Is," answered the man to whom she was speaking. "I, too, had the same experience. I happened one year to spend a few weeks cn the const of Maine, and there was a little maiden there in a pink sun bouuet, who was too fetching for any thing. She was spending the summer with her people, plulu sort of parties who didn't much count. Well, we be came great friends, and I came very near making a great fool of myself. Fortunately, however, I waited to make sure of my feelings, but I was most impatient for her return to New York, aud called immediately. Well, I had a shock. Gowned In a New.York street tire she was n different creat-ai'o-und her homo looked stuffy and altogether unattractive. I had Intend ed asking my sisters to call upon ber, hut I gave up that Idea at once, and. al though I am by no means of a fickle nature, that visit wag my first and last, yet the girl wag undoubtedly the same nice little thing that I bad so nearly lost my heart to In the summer. It Just shows, as yon say, what creatures of circumstance we nil are!" New York Tribune. Manners of lloalaess Women, A recent contributor to the Independ ent notes a marked improvement In the manners of the average business worn- hu. She realizes the value of time, this writer thinks; she Is prompt In ber ap pointments, self possessed and digni fied In her behavior and does not ex pect the Hun's share of every bargain Just because she is a woman. "Wom en are realizing," continues the article. "what men long ago found out that propriety which is based on the recog nltion of mutual rights Is a much finer thing aud the product of a higher de gree of civilization than the courtesy which Is based on privilege. Tbe for mer bad nianuers of women In business In public generally proceeded, like tbe gaueherle of the countryman In tbe city, from Ignorance of the forma and usages of the new environment rather than from any Intention of being rude or selfish. As women gain self-knowl dge they lose In sclf-consclousness, which Is the root of all bad manners, In tbe Isolation of tbe borne women bad no opportunity to cultivate the courtesies of Intercourse and acquire tbe ease r, which comes from contact wltb men of many minds. When worn en first entered tbe business world they were apt to be brusque and over bearing or silly and flirtatious. Now tbey Join tbe tact of the woman to the efficiency of the man and men no long er dread to do business with tbem." To eeood Socially. When a woman baa tbe courage to think for herself and to be original and honest she posse see the keynote to so cial auccess. Tbe first es "atlal to ward social success is personal ma;ne LJ2 tls:n; that much coveted quality Is ti think nnd act for oneself. The nex cssentinl Is to be a good listener. I good listener absorbs all the best thing! she hears, and casts aside the worth less things thnt would be of no use ti her. To absorb tho best of everythlni around you and make the best of your self Is a quality that cannot be to' highly commended. ' Never copy or Imitate any one else however much you may admire them, for there Is where you lose yoursell In another's personality. Mnny women In rending n book thnt has created a stir In literary and other circles gust and rave about It simply because it if popular; would It not be much bettet to read a book Intelligently nnd then II It does not Interest you or you do not Ilka It have tho courage to say so, ever If you do differ with others? It Is in Just such small mntters n the above that a woman shows sbe has the courage to think for herself and have original opinions. She then be comes Interesting nnd to be Interesting Is tosucceed socially. American Queen Beauty and Amlnbllltv. The woman who can control hersell under the most trying clrcumxtnuces Is the woman who holds the strongest power over ineu. The average man prizes permanent peace aud content above the happiness of possessing a beautiful, attractive creature for a wife, nnd he knows thnt a bad-tempered woman and peace gc not together. The assertion from n woman that she has a bad temper, nnd Is proud of It, hag kept more than one worthy man from asking her to share his future as his wife. No matter how beautiful and brainy nnd fascinating the bad tempered wom an may be, or how lengthy her bank account, her power Is infinitesimal compared with that of her amiable sis- tor. And amiability Is not only power, it Is mental progression and health nnd happiness and long life to one's sell nnd to oue's friends aud family. New iork News. Egyptian Lace. An Egyptian lace has many queer lit tle figures in It, all Idols and oats nnd strangely incongruous figures for Ince work. In the pattern there are alsc wandering lines of jrold, as though a big fly, harnessed with gold silk, had traveled over the surface. An Egyptian skirt and blouse were made for a fashionnlde woman. The mnterlal was white silk and the Egyp tian feature lay in the Oriental flounce nnd in tho Oriental silk, on the blouse. The style was plain, and the whole might be carried out In black, to the great delight of the womnn who like? a handsome all-black gown. The woman in all-black has many temptations this year, for they now have a way of combining colors thai are harmonious to the ldst degree. The deep reds and the brighter reds, with a little white and some brown, nre used In embroideries, nnd these nre em ployed to trim the gowns of the season. Lace Knots For the Hair. Knots of lace make pretty bnlr orna ments. Inch wide lace Is wired In the shape of a square bow, two loops and two ends. In the centre Is fastened a tiny aigrette and a small rhlnestoue or nament. Silver paillettes are sewed on tbe lace at Intervals. Blbbon bows nre left with one end unfastened thnt It may be wound round tbe coll of hair when tbe coiffure Is small. Bosettes of tulle are mounted on gilt wire pins and are very dainty lu the hair. Bosettes made of tulle are shown In pairs to be worn on dancing slippers. A small rhlnestone ornament Is fast ened In the centre of each. Ostrleb pompons, small white mer cury wings, tiny ostrich feathers and large white down pompons nre the most popular hair ornaments lu feath ers. . w Care or the Hulr, Many people ore under the Impres sion thnt a vigorous brushing of a hun dred strokes at night nnd In the morn ing will have 'the effect of making the hair grow. This Is a mistake. The brush should only be applied with e very gentle, almost caressing, motion. Its only use Is to Impart gloss and make the hair smooth. To properly brush the hair care should be taken to part It ut the middle and gently brush downward ou each side from parting to points, wltb lung, even strokes. Frequent massaging of the scalp will be found beneficial, aud will do much toward promoting tbe growth of the balr. Sweet Odored Sjaebeta. Dainty sachets for the corsets conn In oli sorts of floral shapes, with little sharp-pointed hooks upou them, all ready to attach to tbe whalebqned gar meut. There are psnsles of silk In nat ural colors, each petal padded with per fume, others baring sweet rosebuds In thick clusters with velvet leaves, wbll four-leaf clovers aro shWu, and even tbe popular grapes In tiny bunches arc pinned to embroidered corsets. Small painted hearts about an lnct In width are now furnished with thi fluer grades of corsets, as sachets art now considered a matter of course and are worn on all occasions. Coral and Turqoelso. Between the present ratfe for coral and also- for turquoise, there ubouK' be no question of becomloguess, eltbei to blonde or brunette, fur If turquolm Is considered admirably fitted to tbe blonde type of woman, so coral Is con sidered one of tbe best things a brun ette can wear to bring out tbe fuD beauty of ber coloring, says the Phila delphia Inquirer. Tbe Jewelry shoni sbow all sorts of novelties In coral and turquoise dog collars, lorgnette chains mounted aide combs, barrettes, pend ants and earrings. 'df-te Winter Gowns. For evening much filet lace la worn, made with flowing sleeves and full bod ices, clasped round t!ie waist wltb smart belts. It Is far better to select brown, or, If It aults you, red, for red Is very well worn, especially kilt pleat ed and trimmed wltb chenille, Wbltt satin la always to the fore,, and there Is nothing better for evening wear now, but It should be soft and clinging and requires muci trimming, either In tbe form of flounces at the hem pr em broidery all ever. Her Clothes M1Y New York City. Tasteful house !onts may fairly be counted among be necessities of modern life. Little )y little. we have attained the French HOUSB COAT, woman's Idea that true economy Is wbserred uy the possession of gowns lulted to all the occasions of life, doming Jackets render their wearers ittractlve while providing perfect ease ire much to be desired because of diose two fucts. In addition to which heir reudiuess often means slipping iff the better gown for a brief rest ind a consequent saving. This very ittractlve May Mauton model Is showu n pale blue flannel with trimming of ieuvy lace, but henrlettn, cashmere, llbatross, veiling aud silk are equally tpproprlnte. The coat Is made with loose fronts, andcr-arm gores, n back with Inverted floats that Is attached to a shallow roke, a shawl collnr and elbow sleeves. I'be fronts ure hipped In double-breast-sd style nnd are held by Invisible nstenlngs. The sleeves are edged with paduated circular frills that are grace ful In the extreme. The quantity of material required Tor the medium size Is four nnd three .'ourth yards twenty-seven Inches wide, three nnd one-fourth ynrds thirty-two inches wide or three and one-eighth rards forty-four Inches wide. Woman's Jacket. Stvllsh snug-fitting Jackets always JACKET FOB are fashionable and make Ideal wraps for general wear. The smart May Mauton model shown In the large drawing Is shown In kersey cloth, In royal blue stitched lu cortlcelli silk and finished with collar and cuffs of velvet edged avith bands of white cloth, but all cloaking and suit inuterlnls are appropriate, as the design suits the odd coat and the entire costume equal ly well. When desired tbe fronts can be polled back to form revers as shown In the small sketch. Th Jacket consists of fronts, side fronts, under-arni gores, bnck and side backs. When plain seams are pre ferred those at front and back are simply closed ou Indicated lines, tbe stitched tucks and underfaclngs. thnt form the slot seams, being omitted. The fronts are deeply faced and meet the collar that Is sewed to tbe neck edge. When closed they are tupped In double-breasted style. At each blp Is Inserted a pocket that is finished with a pocket welt. Tho sleeves are two seamed and finished With roll-over cuffs, but can be left plain If preferred. Tbe quantity of material required for tbe medium size is two and one fourth yards forty-four Inches wide or two aud one-fourth yards fifty-ono Inches wide. The ttleelon of tbo Skirt Yone. The skirt yoke Is having Immense popularity with girls and women in clined to "embonpoint." It gives a fresh starting point for pleats, and gathers or sblrs, and keeps all redund ant fulness away from the, waist Hue. Nevertheless, It can easily be overdone, as Is frequently the case when any mode Is adop.-ed wltb enthusiasm. Therefore, It Is better to have one atreet dress only made In this way, as you will not bare more than one gown rendered "old style" If It, or they, sur vive this season. Some dressmakers keep all tucks and pleats and paneling below the knee, but tbls is only to be recommended when a woman Is un commonly tall. To be slender and tall Is the desideratum nowadays, aud all tbe tines of dress aro arranged to pro duce and enhance this effect. ' flexible Side Bass, y Provision for carrying the weM-nlgb Indispensable moucbolr Is made la rs- 4 1 by rlous ways. One of tbe pretty contriv ances Is the flexible side bag. There are many of these In the market, and they can be described as belonging to one or other of two grand divisions. First como the well-known beaded bngs In different styles, the choice ex amples being in icy-clear frost beads or In a copper-colored bend, which Is extremely showy. The second grand division of flexible bags Includes those made of knitted links like chain armor or of overlapping plates like fish scales of different metals. Silver, steel, French gilt, gun metal arc all used, but none nre more novel than those made of plates of Berlin Iron. Olio Metnl Hat Pins. Gut metal hat pins are still to be found In many charming designs. Crys tal Is combined with tbe metal. Semi precious as well as precious stones and silver designs upon the black make smart pins. Green Is one of the colors used frequently with the gun metal- Voluminous Skirts. As the season advances the skirts of milady become fuller nnd fuller. This the great creators of feminine fashions across the water have determined upon, nnd on this side the gowns of the fashionables already show the result of their decision. The voluminous In novation Is particularly noticeable In the evening gowns. Chiffons and ruous sell tie de sole were never successful while scantiness was the vogue, and in soft fabrics the fulness Is, and ever was ' pretty. To the slight figure the full skirt Is always becoming, and even lu street costuiueg the finest and most supple cloth Is gathered aud pleated across the hips. llrautlful Floral Fans. Little fans which are popular are set solidly with flowers, violets, covering all of the fan part. The sticks are rolled, not folded, and tied wltb a rib bon. The fans are pretty little thing's. A 8ensoaablo Hat. A seasonable hat. In rich crimson tones, has a wreath of crimson velvet holly leaves, wltb crimson velvet ber ries round the entire crown and down over tbe balr lu the back. Women's Work Apron. Every housewife, every artist and A WOMAN. every other woman whose occupation means danger of soil to her gowns, feels tho need of a protcotlvo apron, This very excellent model was de signed with direct reference to such' need and Is eminently serviceable and satisfactory at tho same time that It Is tasteful. The original is made of white lawn and is simply stitched, but gingham and all apron materials are appropriate and bands of embroidery can be substituted for the plain ones If desired. Tbe apron Is made with fronts and backs that are gathered at their upper edges and finished with bands that serve as a yoke. To these bands are attached others that form ' shoulder straps and which serve to keep tht apron In place. A single button and buttonhole make the only fastening that Is required. Tho quantity of material required SXSTlCCACt-S WOBK 4M0X. tor the medium sjzo Is four and one half yards tweuty-seron Inches wide. er four and ono balf yards thirty-six Inches wide, . , rm v-jbw n usrm 't
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers