| NEW YORK FMHIOffi 1
If Designs For Costumes That Have Be- ||
P ,% °r r jC a ||
NEW YORK CITY (Special).—There
is more genuine novelty in the wraps
of cloth and fur designed for the pres
ent season's clothes market than in
TIIE NEW WINTER COAT,
either the gowns or hats that are al
ready c»6ting their shadows before
them. None of the fashionable new
comers ttt the furriers or cloakmakers
is braided. The whole creed of dec
oration is cloth stitched on cloth and
fur on cloth. Not one of the new
coats or capes make the slightest pre
tense of fitting the figure. What the
English call box and what the French
volante Shape wraps are being pushed
for popularity most vigorously by the
manufacturers, and the chances are
ju6t even whether this style, so fre
quently and emphatically rejected and
despised by women, will now be ac
cepted.
Clumsily large capes of the same
type as were worn last winter are
eligible for use in the coming season,
and the handsomest are made of thick
sleek-surfaced dark cloth with broad
borders of gray and brown fur and
finished by tall kaiser collars. An
ATTRACTIVE NL./ FLANNEL SHIRT WAISTS.
other mode shows a cape with long
kersey skirts to the hem of the dress
and then over this to the hip falls an
other cape of fur, and it is perfectly
patent that the long-haired pelts are
to be first in the hearts of our country
•vcmen this year.
Long cloth coats that might easily
be called ulsters and made of broad
cloth, vicuna or Venetian cloth, ar«
out on the Chesterfield and Baglan
pattern, as those for men are modeled;
their pockets are ample and the one
feminine suggestion is the tall, up
rolled collar, often lined with mole's
fur that gives the tenderest, most
grateful touch to the face possible,
and the smoked pear-gray color, which
forms a soft becoming background for
the face. The majority of these long
coats are made to fasten with the but
tons out of sight, or one or two very
choice cut steel disks hold tho fronts
together and twinkle in the soft, deep
hair.
There is a pretty fashion coming in
of using bullet-shaped buttons of
brass as trimmings on sleeves and
yokes and the fronts of cloth suits.
These are copies of the buttons that
small boys in livery wear, and they
are not the first brass ornaments that
have crept into women's wardrobes.
Brass is evidently the successor to
much of the popularity accorded to
gun metal, and by treating it to a nigh
polish and overlaying it with a pe
culiar lacquer it neither loses its lus
ter nor conveys any ugly odor to the
hands.
Sliirt Waist* Still Thing* of Beauty.
Among the leally indispensable
things exhibited in the shops are the
new shirt waists. Notwithstanding
the fact that these comfortable gar
ments have been in vogue many years
and each season some one asserts that
tliey are "going out," they are still in
great demand.
Styles vary, and special designers
in the large shops always are working
out novelties. The new flannel and
silk waists merit going a long dis
tance to see, for they are beauties,
and not at all expensive. Of course,
the best are tailor-made, as they
should be to have the quiet style so
necessary in this garment; but of all
things worn by woman the shirt waist
is, perhaps, the only article which can
be made at home and really look the
real thing. There are good patterns,
which fit, too, and if the maker is
careful about stitching well and press
ing correctly, she can turn out a really
good waist.
But silk ones are another story,
with their endless number of tinv
tucks; the delicate hemstitching; the
rolled edges, with narrow embroidery
slipped in, and all the perplexing de
tails. So much depends upon the set
at the back, the hang of the sleeve,
the way buttons are sewed, and, above
all, the cravat, that it is small wonder
that a woman prefers to be well
dressed in one expensive waist rather
than have several badly made or in
ferior in quality.
For silk waists, tucks and hem
stitching are the proper mode. The
tucks may run lengthwise in groups,
may be tiny or large, or stitched iu
squares. So long as tucks are used
one cannot fail to be in the fashion.
For flannel a combination of stripes
has the smartest offect. The exam
ples shown in the largo engraving,
taken from the New York Press, are
both of flannel, and for style and com
fort no design can bo found which
will surpass them.
Reducing the Fashionable Chain*
The fashionable chain is reducing,
in some instances, both its dimension
and weight. It is neither so long nor
so heavy as heretofore. There seems
an approach to the delicate baauty of
the slender gold chains which our
grandmothers wore reaching to the
waistband into which the watch was
tucked. Some of the newest chains
are quite fine, and extend about half
way to the waist, supporting a small
watch or a fine pendant.
A Tallor-Made Pelerine.
There is now a tailor-made pelerine.
It is yery simple except at the neck,
where it is heaped with lace, silk mus
lin ruches, accordion-plaitings, single.
double and triple, with broad-ribbot
bows or choux fastened here and there.
Gloves an«l Shoes For Winter Wear.
Heavily stitched stout gloves ar<
the only kind allowable for the wintei
season. Thick, round-toed shoes are
the proper footwear, and hats posi
tively must be devoid of gewgaws anc
fussy trimmings.
A New Robe Design.
A modest design in a robe conceivec
of cambric is here introduced. Half
inch tuckings form the yoke and th«
trimming across the upper part of th«
CAMBRIC RODE.
sleeves. The wrists are finished witi
a soft, bell-shaped fall of lawn edgec
with lace, and that also outlines lh<
fastening.
DR. TALMAGES SERMON.
SUNDAY'S DISCOURSE BT THE NOTED
DIVINE.
Subject: Tim dory of tlie Xnw—Naval
Heroes Deserve Fall Measure at
Praise—Usefnl Lessons Drawn From
Their Bravery and Devotion.
[Copyright, Louis Klopsch, 18P9.1
Washington, D. C.—At n time when the
whole nation Is stirred with patriotic emo
tion at the return of Admiral George
Dowey and his gallant men on the cruiser
Olympla and the magnificent reception nc
corded to them, the Rev. Dr. T. Do Witt
Talraage, in his sermon, preaching to a
vast audience, appropriately recalls for
devout and patriotic purposes some of the
great naval deeds of olden and more recent
times. Test, James ill., 4, "Behold also
'.he ships."
If this exclamation was appropriate about
1872 years ago, when it was written con
cerning the crude Ashing smacks that sailed
Lake Galilee, bow much more appropriate
In an age which has launched from the dry
locks for purposes of peace the Oceanic of
the While Star lino, the Lucanln of the
Cunard line, the Ht. Louis of the American
line, the Kaiser Wllhelm der Grosse of the
North German Lloyd line, the Augusta Vic
toria of the Hamburg-American line, and
in an age which for purposes of war has
launched the scrow sloops like the Idaho,
the Shenandoah, the Osslpee, and our iron
clads like the Kalamazoo, the Roanoke and
the Dunderberg, and tboso which have al
ready been burled in the deep, like the
Monitor, the Housatonic nnd the Woe
linwken, the tempests ever since sounding
a volley over their watery sepulchers, and
the Oregon, and the Brooklyn, and tho
Texas, and the Olympla, the lowa, the Mas
sachusetts, tho Indiana, the New York, the
Marietta of the last war, and tho scarred
veterans of war shipping, llko the Consti
tution or the Allianco or the Constellation,
that have swung into tho naval yards to
spend their last days, their decks now all
silent of the feet that trod them, their rig
ging all silent of tho bands that clung to
them, their portholes silent of the brazen
throats that once thundered out of them.
Full justice has been done to tho m;n
who at different times fought on the land,
but not enough has been said of those who
on snip's deck dared and suffered all things.
Lord God of the rivers nnd the sea, help
mo In this sermonl So, yo admirals, com
manders, captains, pilots, gunners, boat
swains, sailmakers, surgeons, stokers,mess
mates and seamen of all names, to use your
own parlunce, wo might as well get under
wny and stand out to son. Let all land
lubbers go ashore. Full speed nowl Four
bells!
It looks picturesque nnd beautiful to see
a war vessel going out through the Nar
rows, sailors In now rig singing,
A life on the ocean wave,
A home on the tolling deep,
tlie colors grncefully dipping to passing
ships, the docks Immaculately clean and
the guns at quarantine firing a parting
salute. But the pootry Is all gone out of
that ship as it comes out of that engage
ment, its docks red with human blood,
wheelhouse gone, tho cabins a pile of shat
tered mirrors and destroyed furniture,
steering wheel broken, smokestack crushed,
a hundred pound Wbltworth rifleshot hav
ing left Its mark from port to starboard,
the shrouds rent away, ladders splintered
nnd docks plowed up and smoke blackened
and scalded corpses lying among those who
are gasping their Inst gasp far away frcm
home and kindred, whom they love ns
much as we love wife and parents and chil
dren.
Oh, men of tho Ame lean nnvv returned
from Manila and Santiago and Havana, as
well as those who are survivor* of the
naval conflicts of 18C3 and 1864, men of tho
western gulf squadron, of the eastern gulf
squadron, of the south Atlantic squadron,
of tho north Atlantic squadron, of the
Mississippi squadron, of tho Pncillc squad
ron, of the West India squadron, and of
the Potomac flotilla, hear our tnauks!
Take the benediction of the churches. Ac
cept the hospitalities of the nation. If wo
had our way, we would get you not only a
pension, but a homo and a princely ward
robo and an equipage and a banquet while
you live, and after your departure a
cntafolque nnd a mausoleum of seupltured
I marble, with a model of the ship in which
you won the day. It is considered a gal
lant thing when in a naval fight the flag
ship with Its blue ensign goos ahead up a
river or into a bay, its admiral
standing in the shrouds watching and giv
ing orders. But I have to tell you, O vet
erans of the American navy, if you are as
loyal to Christ as you were to the govern
ment, there Is n flagship tailing ahead of
you of which Christ is the admiral, and Ho
watches from tho shrouds, and tho heavens
are tho blue ensign, nnd Ho leadr you to
ward tho harbor, and all the broadsides of
earth and hell cannot damage you, and vo
whose garments were once red with your
own blood shall have a robe washed nnd
made white in tho blood of tho Lamb.
Then strike eight pells! High noon in
lioavenl
While we are heartily greeting and ban
queting tho sailor patriots ju9t now re
turned wo must not forget the veterans
of tho navy now In marine hospitals or
spending their old days in their own or
their children's homesteads. Oh, yo vet
erans, I charge you bear up under tho
iiches and weaknesses thnt you still carry
from the wartimes. You are not as stalwart
as you would have been but lor thnt nerv
ous strain and for that terrific exposure.
Let every ache and pain, instead of depress
ing,remind you of your fidelity. The sinking
of the Weehnwkon oft Morris Island, De
cember 6, 1863, was a mystery. Slio was
not under fire. Tho sea "wns rough.
But Admiral Dahlgren Iron tho deck
of tho flag steamer Philadelphia
;uw bcr gradually sinking and
finally she struck the ground, but the
flag still floated above the wave in tho
liglit of the shipping. It was nfteward
found that sho sank from weakness
through injuries in previous service. Hor
plntes had been knocked loose in previous
times. So you have in nerve nnd muscle
and bone and dimmed eyesight and difll
3ult hearing and shortness of breath many
Intimations that you are gradually going
down. It fs the service of many years ago
thnt is telling on you. Be of good cheer.
We owe you just as much as though your
llfeblood had gurgled through the scup
pers of the ship in the Rod river expedition
Dr as though you had gone down with the
Melville off Hatteras. Only keep your flag
flying, ns did the illustrious Woehawkon.
Good cheer, my boys!
Sometimes off tho coast of England the
roynl family Lave inspected the British
navy, mnnoeuvored before them for that
purpose. In the Baltic sea the czar and
czarina have reviewed tho Russian navy.
To bring before tho American peoplo tho
debt they owe to the navy I go out with
you on tho Atlantic ocean, where there is
plenty of room, and in imagination re
view tho war shipping of our four great
conflicts—l 776, 1812, 1863 and 1898. Swing
Into line all yo frigates. Ironclads, lire
rafts, gunboats and men-of-war! There
they come, all sail set nnd all furnaces
in full blast, sheaves of crystal tossing
from their cutting prows. Thnt is the
Delaware, an old Revolutionary craft,
commanded by Commodore Decatur.
Yonder goes the Constitution, Com
modore Hull commanding. There is tho
Cbesapenke, commanded by Captalu
Lawrence, whose dying words were,
"Don't give up the ship," and the Niaga
ra of 1812, commanded by Commodore
Perry, who wrote on the back of nn old
letter, resting on bis navy cop, "We have
met the enemy, and they aro ours." Yon
der is the flagship Wabash. Admiral Du-
Sont commanding, yonder, the flagship
[lnnesota, Admiral Goldsboroufch com
manding; yonder, the flagship Philadel
phia, Admiral Dablgren commanding; yon
<*<T, the flagship San Jacintc, Admiral
Bailey commanding; yonder, the flagship
Black Hawk, At'miral Porter commanding,
yonder, the ilaj steamer Benton, Admiral
Footo commanding; yonder, the flagship
Hardford, David G. Farragut command
ing; yonder, the Brooklyn, Rear Admiral
Schley commanding; yonder, the Olympla,
Admiral Dewey commanding; yonder tL«
Oregon, Captain Clark commanding; yon.
der, the Texas, Captain Philip command
ing; yonder, the New York, Rear Admiral
Sampson commanding; yondor, the lowa,
Captain Robley D. Evans commanding.
All those of you who were in the naval
service during the war of 18C3 are now in
the afternoon or evening of life. With
somo of ycu It is 2 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 4
o'clock, 6 o'clock, audit will soon be sun
down. If you were of age when tho war
broke out, you are now at loast 63. Many
of you have passed into the seventies.
While in our Cuban war there were more
Christian communders on soa and land
than In any previous conflict, I would re
vivo In your minds the fact that at least
two great admirals of the civil war were
Christians, Footo and Farragut. Had
the Christian religion been a cowardly
thing they would have had nothing to do
with it. In its faith they lived and died.
In Brooklyn navy yard Admiral Foote
held prayer meetings nnd conducted a re
vival on the receiving ship North Carolina
nnd on Sabbaths, far out at sea, followed
the chaplain with religious exhortation.
In oarly life, aboard tho sloop-of-wnr
Natchez, Impressed by the words of a Chris
tian sailor, ho gavo his sparotlmo for two
weeks to tho Bible, and at tho end of that
deolared openly, "Henceforth, under nil
circumstances, I will act for God." His
last words while dying nt tho A«tor House,
New York, were: "I thnnk (iod for all His
goodnoss to me. Ho has been very good
to mo." WUen ho entered heaven, iiu did
not have to run a blockade, for it was
amid tho cheers of a great welcome. Tho
other Christian admiral will bo honored
on earth until the days when tho fires from
above shall lick up the waters from be
neath and there shall be no more sea.
Oh, while old ocean's breast
Bears a white sail
And God's soft stars to re3t
Guide through the gale,
Men will him ne'er forgot,
Old heart of onk—
Farragut, Farragut—
Thunderbolt atrokel
According to his own siatemont, Far
ragut wns very loose in his morals iu oarly
manhood and practiced all kinds of sin.
One day he wa9 called Into the cabin of his
father, who was a shipmaster. His father
said, "David, what are you going to bo
anyhow?" Ho answereil, "I am going to
follow the sea." "Follow the sea," said
the father, "and bo kicked about the
world and dlo In a foreign hospital?"
"No," said David; "I am going to com
mand like you." "No," said the father;
"a boy of your habits will never command
anything." And his father burst into tears
and left the cabin. From that day David
Farragut started on a now life.
Captain Pennington, an honored older
of my Brooklyn church, wns with him i*
most of bis battles aud had his Intimnt*
friendship, and ho conllrmed, what I had
heard elsewhere, that Farragut was good
and Christian. In every groat crisis of
life ho asked and obtained the Divine di
rection. When in Mobile bay tho monitor
Tecumseh sank from a torpedo and the
great warship Brooklyn, thut was to load
the squadron, turned back, he said he
was at a loss to know whether to ad
vnnce or retroat, and fie says:"l prayed.
'O God, who created man and gave lilm
reason, direct mo what to do. Shall Igo
on?' And a voice commanded mo, 'Go
on,' aud 1 went on." Was there ever a
more touching Christian letter than that
which ho wrote to his wife from his flagship
Hartford? "My dearest wife, I write and
leave this letter for you. lam going Into
Mohlle bay In tho morning if God is my
leader, and I hope Ho is, nud in Him I
place my trust. If He ihlnka It Is tho proper
place for me to dlo, I am ready to submit
to His will iu that as all other things. God
bless and preserve you, my darling, and
my doar boy, if anything should happen to
me. May His blessings rest upon you and
your dear mother."
Cheerful to the end, ho said on board the
Tallapoosa In tho last voyage he ever took,
"It would be well If I died now In harness."
The sublime Episcopal service for tho dead
was never moro upproprlntely rondered
than over his casket, aud well did all the
forts of New York harbor thunder as his
body was brought to the wharf, and well
did the minute guns sound and the boils
toll as In a procession having in Its rnnks
the President of the United States and his
cabinet and the mighty men of land nnd sea
the old admiral wus carried, amid hun
dreds of thousands of uncovered hoads on
Broadway, and laid on his pillow of dust in
beautiful Woodlawn, September 30, amid
the pomp of our autumnal forests.
|£ Wo ball with thanks the new generation
of naval horoes, those of the yoar 1838. We
are too near their marvelous deeds to fully
appreciate them. A century from now
poetry and sculpture and painting and his
tory will do them better justice than wo
can do them now. A defeat ut Manila would
have been an infinite disaster. Foreign
nations not over-fond of our American In
stitutions would have Joined tho other side,
' aud tho war so many months past would
bavo beon raging still, and perhaps a hun
dred thousand graves would have opened
to take down our slain soldiers nnd sailors.
It took this country throe years to get
over the disaster at Bull Run at the open
ing of tho civil war. How many years It
would have required to recover from a
defeat at Manila In the opening of the
Spanish war I cannot say. God averted
tho calamity by giving triumph to our
navy under Admiral Dewey, whose coming
up through the Narrows of Now York har
bor day before yesterday was greetod by
tho nation whoso welcoming oheors will
not cease to resound until to-morrow, nnd
next duy In tho capital of the nation the
jeweled sword voted by Congress shall be
presented amid booming cannonade and
embannered hosts, and our autumnul
nights shall become a conflagration of
splendor, but the tramp of these proces
sions ana the flash of that sword and tho
huzza of that gieetlng nnd the roar of
those guns and the illumination of those
nights will bo soon und hoard as long as a
page of American history remains inviolate.
Especially let the country boys of
America join in theso greetings to tho
returned heroes of Manila. It is their
work. Tho chief. character In all the
scone Is the ouce country lad, George
Dewey. Let the Vermontors coino down
and find him older, but the same modest,
unassuming, almost bashful person that
they went to school with and with whom
| they sported on the playground. Tho bon
ers of all the world cannot spoil htm. A
few weeks ago ut a bauquot in England
some of tho titled noblemen wero af
froutod because our American minister
plenipotentiary associated tho name of
D«woy with that of Lord Nelson. As well
might we bo affronted because tho narno
of Nelson Is associated with that of our
most renowned admiral. The one man lu
nil the coming ages will stand as high ns
the other. So this day sympathizing with
all the festivities ami celebrations of the
past week and with all the festivities and
celebrations to come this wook, lot us
anew thank Qod nnd tboso heroes of the
American navy who have done suoli groat
things tor our beloved land. Come aboard
the old 9hlp Zlon, yo sailors and soldiers,
whether still in tho active service or hon
orably discharged and at homo having re
sumed citizenship. An 1 ye men of tho
past, your last battle on the seas fought,
tako from me, In God's name, snlutatlon
and good cheer. For the few romalning
fights with sin and deaths and hell make
ready. Strip your vessel for the fray. Hang
the sheet chains over the side. Send down
the topgallant innsts. Barricade the wheel.
Rig in the flying jib boom. Steer straight
for the shining shore, and hear the shout
of the great Commander of earth and
lieavcn as He cries from the shrouds, "To
him that overcoraetb will I give to eat of
the tree of life which is in the midst of the
paradise of God." Hosunnal Hosannal
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Unique Fishing Experience.
A well known Albany angler bad n
nnique experience last summer trout
fishing up iu Canada. He was sent
cut from camp to catch a mess for sup
per. He was fishing with three flies
on a single leader. At tho first cast
his fly was taken by a good-sized trout
that leaped from the water to grab it.
He evidently got the leader on a
"slack" before the line was tightened
from the rod, as he snapped it off and
went swimming away with the two
flies aud broken leader trailing be
hind. Next day the angler revisited
the lake, and as he was looking over
the side of the boat he espied in ten
or fifteen feet of water the big trout
that had taken his leader the night
before. A closer examination revealed
that his troutship was safely hitched
to the dead branch of a tree which
bad fallen into the water. In swim
ming about one of the two free hooks
on the leader had caught in the branch
and that ended the migrations of the
trout still firmly hooked by the fly he
had grabbed.
Rowing ashore the angler stripjfEd
and dove for his prize. He secured it
aud a piece of the branch, and to-day
bas the stuffed trout with hook still in
bis jaw and the other hook imbedded
in the broken branch mounted as a
piscatorial study and souvenir of the
incident.—Albauy (N. Y.) Argus.
An Invitation to the Queen.
Queen Victoria was very accessible
while in the Highlands, and says
Mainly About People, it not frequent
ly happens that when her majesty
visits one of her old frieds among the
village cronies the weather turns cool
and stormy, and on such occasions
when tho queen prepares to depart
she will be greeted thus;
" 'Deed, ma'm, and you'll no gang
awa till ye tak a cup o' tea to warm ye
against cold."
Fleas May Disseminate the Plague.
A French observer has come to the
conclusion that the bubonic plague is
widely disseminated by fleas. As the
result of a series of experiments, he
affirms that flens taken from infected
rats can communicate the disease to
healthy rate, which in their turn be
come centres of infection.
FJgp 1
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Sold by nil l)rußffl«t».
HA D WAY&t'O., 55 Elm Street» New Ycrk
•• •• •••••*£
I "Arkansas
I Valley I
j Truth" |
! ;
. Is an illustrate 1 Journal desc'.Mng the J
• Varied Rtsourcas of the Arku«:as J
• Valley in eastern Colorado. «
J Here are successfully raised, by irri- •
» cation, t'reat quantities of fruits, grains •
• and alfalfa. J
• Crops art Sura and profitable, and J
£ climate exceptionally healthful. •
• \\ rite for iree copy of"Truth," also •
• for information about homeseukers' m
• excursion tickets. •
• •
J A •
• E. F.BUKNETT.O.E.P. Aft., \
• The Atchison, Topelta 4 Santa Fe Railway, J
• 377 BFCACWAY. NIW VCPK, K.Y. •
W7L. DOUGLAS
83&53.50 SHOES jj
. Worth $4 to $8 compared with
other makei.
V Indorsed by over
S3 1,000,000 wearers.
% ALL LEATHERS, all styles
ri V HI the GKSI'IXt haia W. L. Doafla*'
is B(Bt and prlea ataaped on boUom.
112 Take no substitute claimed
L to be as good. Largest maker*
of $8 and P3.50 shoes in the
world. Your dealer should keep
them—if not, we will send jou
JWW-1 a pair on receipt of price. 6tatt
kind of leather, site and width, plain or cap toe
Catalogue C Free.
W. L DOUGLAS SHOE CO., Brockton, MA**.
—STOPPED FRET
■ KV Ptrnuaatly Carsd
■ ■ ■ iRWRKy frmiiM by
■ ■ ■ M. KLINE'S MEAT
■ ■ w herve restorer
m Mr d XXMfM,.'W,
■ V.— ■ mmi m. Tin* Dm*—. h.FtuwNumwH,
■ ifiiinilv'iu.. TrutiMandMtri»lbottl,
■ (m to niHlluu, Uq mbiupti. ik>r|«>>lf
H when r*MtT»d. Send to Dr. Kiln*, Lfct, Btlltm
■fl InctUuu of Me&laia*. W1 Arch Si., Philadelphia, Pa.
MENTION T&¥o A ZS^ a iߣPj;Z
nENSION^.^Wc 9 :
KSjsssi^
I Syrelaelvll war, 15 abjudicating claims, attjsinoa