| NEW YORK FMHIOffi 1 If Designs For Costumes That Have Be- || P ,% °r r jC a || NEW YORK CITY (Special).—There is more genuine novelty in the wraps of cloth and fur designed for the pres ent season's clothes market than in TIIE NEW WINTER COAT, either the gowns or hats that are al ready c»6ting their shadows before them. None of the fashionable new comers ttt the furriers or cloakmakers is braided. The whole creed of dec oration is cloth stitched on cloth and fur on cloth. Not one of the new coats or capes make the slightest pre tense of fitting the figure. What the English call box and what the French volante Shape wraps are being pushed for popularity most vigorously by the manufacturers, and the chances are ju6t even whether this style, so fre quently and emphatically rejected and despised by women, will now be ac cepted. Clumsily large capes of the same type as were worn last winter are eligible for use in the coming season, and the handsomest are made of thick sleek-surfaced dark cloth with broad borders of gray and brown fur and finished by tall kaiser collars. An ATTRACTIVE NL./ FLANNEL SHIRT WAISTS. other mode shows a cape with long kersey skirts to the hem of the dress and then over this to the hip falls an other cape of fur, and it is perfectly patent that the long-haired pelts are to be first in the hearts of our country •vcmen this year. Long cloth coats that might easily be called ulsters and made of broad cloth, vicuna or Venetian cloth, ar« out on the Chesterfield and Baglan pattern, as those for men are modeled; their pockets are ample and the one feminine suggestion is the tall, up rolled collar, often lined with mole's fur that gives the tenderest, most grateful touch to the face possible, and the smoked pear-gray color, which forms a soft becoming background for the face. The majority of these long coats are made to fasten with the but tons out of sight, or one or two very choice cut steel disks hold tho fronts together and twinkle in the soft, deep hair. There is a pretty fashion coming in of using bullet-shaped buttons of brass as trimmings on sleeves and yokes and the fronts of cloth suits. These are copies of the buttons that small boys in livery wear, and they are not the first brass ornaments that have crept into women's wardrobes. Brass is evidently the successor to much of the popularity accorded to gun metal, and by treating it to a nigh polish and overlaying it with a pe culiar lacquer it neither loses its lus ter nor conveys any ugly odor to the hands. Sliirt Waist* Still Thing* of Beauty. Among the leally indispensable things exhibited in the shops are the new shirt waists. Notwithstanding the fact that these comfortable gar ments have been in vogue many years and each season some one asserts that tliey are "going out," they are still in great demand. Styles vary, and special designers in the large shops always are working out novelties. The new flannel and silk waists merit going a long dis tance to see, for they are beauties, and not at all expensive. Of course, the best are tailor-made, as they should be to have the quiet style so necessary in this garment; but of all things worn by woman the shirt waist is, perhaps, the only article which can be made at home and really look the real thing. There are good patterns, which fit, too, and if the maker is careful about stitching well and press ing correctly, she can turn out a really good waist. But silk ones are another story, with their endless number of tinv tucks; the delicate hemstitching; the rolled edges, with narrow embroidery slipped in, and all the perplexing de tails. So much depends upon the set at the back, the hang of the sleeve, the way buttons are sewed, and, above all, the cravat, that it is small wonder that a woman prefers to be well dressed in one expensive waist rather than have several badly made or in ferior in quality. For silk waists, tucks and hem stitching are the proper mode. The tucks may run lengthwise in groups, may be tiny or large, or stitched iu squares. So long as tucks are used one cannot fail to be in the fashion. For flannel a combination of stripes has the smartest offect. The exam ples shown in the largo engraving, taken from the New York Press, are both of flannel, and for style and com fort no design can bo found which will surpass them. Reducing the Fashionable Chain* The fashionable chain is reducing, in some instances, both its dimension and weight. It is neither so long nor so heavy as heretofore. There seems an approach to the delicate baauty of the slender gold chains which our grandmothers wore reaching to the waistband into which the watch was tucked. Some of the newest chains are quite fine, and extend about half way to the waist, supporting a small watch or a fine pendant. A Tallor-Made Pelerine. There is now a tailor-made pelerine. It is yery simple except at the neck, where it is heaped with lace, silk mus lin ruches, accordion-plaitings, single. double and triple, with broad-ribbot bows or choux fastened here and there. Gloves an«l Shoes For Winter Wear. Heavily stitched stout gloves ar< the only kind allowable for the wintei season. Thick, round-toed shoes are the proper footwear, and hats posi tively must be devoid of gewgaws anc fussy trimmings. A New Robe Design. A modest design in a robe conceivec of cambric is here introduced. Half inch tuckings form the yoke and th« trimming across the upper part of th« CAMBRIC RODE. sleeves. The wrists are finished witi a soft, bell-shaped fall of lawn edgec with lace, and that also outlines lh< fastening. DR. TALMAGES SERMON. SUNDAY'S DISCOURSE BT THE NOTED DIVINE. Subject: Tim dory of tlie Xnw—Naval Heroes Deserve Fall Measure at Praise—Usefnl Lessons Drawn From Their Bravery and Devotion. [Copyright, Louis Klopsch, 18P9.1 Washington, D. C.—At n time when the whole nation Is stirred with patriotic emo tion at the return of Admiral George Dowey and his gallant men on the cruiser Olympla and the magnificent reception nc corded to them, the Rev. Dr. T. Do Witt Talraage, in his sermon, preaching to a vast audience, appropriately recalls for devout and patriotic purposes some of the great naval deeds of olden and more recent times. Test, James ill., 4, "Behold also '.he ships." If this exclamation was appropriate about 1872 years ago, when it was written con cerning the crude Ashing smacks that sailed Lake Galilee, bow much more appropriate In an age which has launched from the dry locks for purposes of peace the Oceanic of the While Star lino, the Lucanln of the Cunard line, the Ht. Louis of the American line, the Kaiser Wllhelm der Grosse of the North German Lloyd line, the Augusta Vic toria of the Hamburg-American line, and in an age which for purposes of war has launched the scrow sloops like the Idaho, the Shenandoah, the Osslpee, and our iron clads like the Kalamazoo, the Roanoke and the Dunderberg, and tboso which have al ready been burled in the deep, like the Monitor, the Housatonic nnd the Woe linwken, the tempests ever since sounding a volley over their watery sepulchers, and the Oregon, and the Brooklyn, and tho Texas, and the Olympla, the lowa, the Mas sachusetts, tho Indiana, the New York, the Marietta of the last war, and tho scarred veterans of war shipping, llko the Consti tution or the Allianco or the Constellation, that have swung into tho naval yards to spend their last days, their decks now all silent of the feet that trod them, their rig ging all silent of tho bands that clung to them, their portholes silent of the brazen throats that once thundered out of them. Full justice has been done to tho m;n who at different times fought on the land, but not enough has been said of those who on snip's deck dared and suffered all things. Lord God of the rivers nnd the sea, help mo In this sermonl So, yo admirals, com manders, captains, pilots, gunners, boat swains, sailmakers, surgeons, stokers,mess mates and seamen of all names, to use your own parlunce, wo might as well get under wny and stand out to son. Let all land lubbers go ashore. Full speed nowl Four bells! It looks picturesque nnd beautiful to see a war vessel going out through the Nar rows, sailors In now rig singing, A life on the ocean wave, A home on the tolling deep, tlie colors grncefully dipping to passing ships, the docks Immaculately clean and the guns at quarantine firing a parting salute. But the pootry Is all gone out of that ship as it comes out of that engage ment, its docks red with human blood, wheelhouse gone, tho cabins a pile of shat tered mirrors and destroyed furniture, steering wheel broken, smokestack crushed, a hundred pound Wbltworth rifleshot hav ing left Its mark from port to starboard, the shrouds rent away, ladders splintered nnd docks plowed up and smoke blackened and scalded corpses lying among those who are gasping their Inst gasp far away frcm home and kindred, whom they love ns much as we love wife and parents and chil dren. Oh, men of tho Ame lean nnvv returned from Manila and Santiago and Havana, as well as those who are survivor* of the naval conflicts of 18C3 and 1864, men of tho western gulf squadron, of the eastern gulf squadron, of the south Atlantic squadron, of tho north Atlantic squadron, of the Mississippi squadron, of tho Pncillc squad ron, of the West India squadron, and of the Potomac flotilla, hear our tnauks! Take the benediction of the churches. Ac cept the hospitalities of the nation. If wo had our way, we would get you not only a pension, but a homo and a princely ward robo and an equipage and a banquet while you live, and after your departure a cntafolque nnd a mausoleum of seupltured I marble, with a model of the ship in which you won the day. It is considered a gal lant thing when in a naval fight the flag ship with Its blue ensign goos ahead up a river or into a bay, its admiral standing in the shrouds watching and giv ing orders. But I have to tell you, O vet erans of the American navy, if you are as loyal to Christ as you were to the govern ment, there Is n flagship tailing ahead of you of which Christ is the admiral, and Ho watches from tho shrouds, and tho heavens are tho blue ensign, nnd Ho leadr you to ward tho harbor, and all the broadsides of earth and hell cannot damage you, and vo whose garments were once red with your own blood shall have a robe washed nnd made white in tho blood of tho Lamb. Then strike eight pells! High noon in lioavenl While we are heartily greeting and ban queting tho sailor patriots ju9t now re turned wo must not forget the veterans of tho navy now In marine hospitals or spending their old days in their own or their children's homesteads. Oh, yo vet erans, I charge you bear up under tho iiches and weaknesses thnt you still carry from the wartimes. You are not as stalwart as you would have been but lor thnt nerv ous strain and for that terrific exposure. Let every ache and pain, instead of depress ing,remind you of your fidelity. The sinking of the Weehnwkon oft Morris Island, De cember 6, 1863, was a mystery. Slio was not under fire. Tho sea "wns rough. But Admiral Dahlgren Iron tho deck of tho flag steamer Philadelphia ;uw bcr gradually sinking and finally she struck the ground, but the flag still floated above the wave in tho liglit of the shipping. It was nfteward found that sho sank from weakness through injuries in previous service. Hor plntes had been knocked loose in previous times. So you have in nerve nnd muscle and bone and dimmed eyesight and difll 3ult hearing and shortness of breath many Intimations that you are gradually going down. It fs the service of many years ago thnt is telling on you. Be of good cheer. We owe you just as much as though your llfeblood had gurgled through the scup pers of the ship in the Rod river expedition Dr as though you had gone down with the Melville off Hatteras. Only keep your flag flying, ns did the illustrious Woehawkon. Good cheer, my boys! Sometimes off tho coast of England the roynl family Lave inspected the British navy, mnnoeuvored before them for that purpose. In the Baltic sea the czar and czarina have reviewed tho Russian navy. To bring before tho American peoplo tho debt they owe to the navy I go out with you on tho Atlantic ocean, where there is plenty of room, and in imagination re view tho war shipping of our four great conflicts—l 776, 1812, 1863 and 1898. Swing Into line all yo frigates. Ironclads, lire rafts, gunboats and men-of-war! There they come, all sail set nnd all furnaces in full blast, sheaves of crystal tossing from their cutting prows. Thnt is the Delaware, an old Revolutionary craft, commanded by Commodore Decatur. Yonder goes the Constitution, Com modore Hull commanding. There is tho Cbesapenke, commanded by Captalu Lawrence, whose dying words were, "Don't give up the ship," and the Niaga ra of 1812, commanded by Commodore Perry, who wrote on the back of nn old letter, resting on bis navy cop, "We have met the enemy, and they aro ours." Yon der is the flagship Wabash. Admiral Du- Sont commanding, yonder, the flagship [lnnesota, Admiral Goldsboroufch com manding; yonder, the flagship Philadel phia, Admiral Dablgren commanding; yon <*r|«>>lf H when r*MtT»d. Send to Dr. Kiln*, Lfct, Btlltm ■fl InctUuu of Me&laia*. W1 Arch Si., Philadelphia, Pa. MENTION T&¥o A ZS^ a iߣPj;Z nENSION^.^Wc 9 : KSjsssi^ I Syrelaelvll war, 15 abjudicating claims, attjsinoa