I NEW YORK FASHIONS. if Designs For Costumes That Have Be- ]| || come Popular in the Metropolis. 1 NEW YOBK CITY (Special).—The new skirts do not show any great dif ference as yet from those of last sea son. They are all close fitting, but A TYPE OF TJIE NEW SKIRTS. not exaggeratedly so; and, oddly enough, all those that are intended for stout women are made with a small bustle, to be worn about two inches below the waist directly in the middle of the back. The reason for this is, that any skirt that fits perfect ly flat in the back emphasizes the width across the hips, whereas the small bustle that is round in shape, and attached to the ends on either side in the middle of the back by a belt, gives another line that breaks the look of width, and also makes the skirt hang much better. This bustle should be of hair, and should not measure over six inches in width and three in length. All the tailors put it LADIE-.' GOWN OR WRAPPER. in their new skirts. The skirts, by the-way, are not to be quite so loug— those to be worn in the street—and it is said that there is every probability of going back to the sensible short skirt. Certain it is that some very smart gowns are in process now that clear the ground, but as the present style of skirt is very difficult to manu facture in any graceful way when it is cut short, the probabilities are that the cheaper quality of kirt will continue to be long. In making up a winter costume it would be well to get the very best pattern and the very latest 1 one, and to avoid any extreme. The smart look that is necessary, and that is difficult to obtain on a plain skirt unless it is well cut, can this year be had by using some of the new trim mings which are very cleverly made both in passementrie and in velvet. Some kind dressmakers are telling their customers that in buying mater ial for the autumn gowns it is well to get an extra width, for if they should be a sudden change from the narrow sheath-like skirt to a wider, the ma terial will be on hand to make the al teration. This alteration, though, will not be needed- for sv/me months to come. StjrlUlt ami Serviceable Gown. Black polka dots on a mauve ground was shown in the fine French flannel which formed the model for the ser viceable and stylish gown illustrated in the large engraving. The feather stitching is of black embroidery silk and a frilling of inch-wide mauve satin ribbon edges the turn down collar and openings of sleeves. Much comfort is derived from the possession of Buch a garment either for traveling or home wear. It may be used as a nightgownjor a bath robe and made in light weight or warm woolen material, its utility being only sur passed by its simplicity. A giidle of ribbon or cordeliere may be worn around the waist. The one seamed shirt waist sleeves are gathered top and bottom in mod erate fulness opened at the back, and joined to a square cufif of fashionable depth, the closing being made with studs or buttons, us preferred. The sleeve may be made without opening and the band or cufif joined dround if cut large enough to slip the hand through. Merino, cashmere, drap-d-'ete, camel's hair, challie, and all soft wool en fabrics, flannelette, outing, domes tic and French flannel. To make this wrapper for a lady of medium size will require six and one half yards of material thirty-six inches wide. Tells Are Not Popnlar. Notwithstanding all that has been written and said about veils, it re mains a fact that they are notp'opular. It is the exception and not the rule to see veils worn by society folk now. This is a direct result of the present style of hat, which, with its curious curves, does not allow of a satisfac tory adjustment of the veil. On a tulle toque, or of one made of soft chiffon, it is quite impossible to arrange a veil so that it will not flat ten this material. Boys' Outing Shirt. riaid madras is chosen for this tidy and comfortable shirt, the blue silk bow-tie matching a tone of the color ing in the goods. The shirt is simply construced with smooth fitting fronts that close in centre through a box plait. The full backs are gathered and joined to the lower edge of a shapely yoke that fits smoothly and is joined to the fronts in shoulder aud under arm seams. A rolling collar is pro vided for the neck, but this may be omitted in favor of a collar band, to which the regulation standing collar may be attached by studs. Patch pockets aro stitched on the fronts. The sleeves are in regulation shirt style, shaped with single seams, and haviug slashed openings at the back, which are finished by under and over ' laps. Straight cuffs complete tho wrists, aud the edges are completed with machine stitching in the usual manner. Gingham, outing flannel, serge, cot ton cheviot, cambric, percale and corded wash silk all make satisfactory outing shirts by the mode. To make this shirt for a boy of four- OTTTINO SHIRT. teen years will require two and three eighths yards of material thirty-six inches wide. DR. TALMAGES SERMON. SUNDAY'S DISCOURSE Br THE NOTED DIVINE. Subject: Made In Worship— Distinction Between Music AI AN Art and Mnulc as an Aid to Devotion—National Airs of the Kingdom of Heaven. [Copyright, Louis Elopsch. 1899.1 WASHINGTON, D. C.—Dr. Talraage, in this sermon, discusses a most attractive depart ment of rellgicus worship—the service of song. His idea will bo received with In terest by all who lovo to lift their voloes In praise in the Lord's house. The text is Nehemlth vil., 67, "And they had two hun dred forty and live singing men and sing ing women." The best music has been rendered under trouble. The first duet that I know any thing of was given by Paul and Silas when they sang praises to God nnd the prisoners heard them. The Scotch Covenanters, hounded by the dogs of persecution, sang the pcalms of David with more spirit than they have ever since been rendered. The captives In the text had music left in ttem. and I declare thnt If they could find amid all their trials two and.forty nnd Bve sinking men and singing "women then In this day of gospel sunlight nnd free from all persecution there ought to be a groat multitude of men and women willing to sing the praises of God. All our ehurches ueed arousal on this subjeot. 'Jhose who can slnj; must throw their souls into the exercise, and those who cannot sing must learn how, nnd it shall be heurt to heart, voice to voice, hymn to hymn, anthem to anthem, nnd the music shall swell jubilant with thanksgiving nnd tremulous with pardon. Have you ever noticed the construction Df the human throat as indicative of what God means us to do with it? In only an ordinary throat nnd lung" there are four teen direct muscles and thirty Indirect ausclcs thnt can produce a very great variety of sounds. What does that mean? It moans thnt vou should sing! Do you suppose that God, who gives us sucli a musical instrumout us that. Intends us to keep it shut? Suppose some great tyrant should got possession of tho musical in struments of the world and should look up the organ of Westminster abbey, and tho argan of Lucerne, nnd tho organ nt Haar lem, and the orgnu at Freiburg, aud all tho other groat musical Instruments of the world. You would call such a man as that a monster, and yet you aro moro wicked if, with tho human voice, a musical instru ment of more wonderful ndnptatlon than nil the musical instruments that man ever created, you shut it against the praise of God. Let those refuse to sing Who never knew our God, But children of the heavenly King Should speak their joys abroad. Music seems to havo been born in tho soul of tho natural world. Tho omnipo tent voice with which God commanded the world Into being seems to linger yet with its majesty and sweetness, and vou hour it in the grulnlleld, In the swoop of the wind amid the mounta'n fastnesses, In tho canary's warble aud the thunder shock, in the brook's tinkle and tho oceun's paean. There aro soft cadences in nature, and loud notes, some of which we enunot henr nt ail, nnd others thnt are so terrilla that we cannot appreciate them. Tho nnimulculno have their music, and the splcula of hay nnd the globule of water aro as certainly resonant with tlie voice of God as tho highest heaveus in which tho armies of tho redeemed celebrate their victories. When the breath of the flowor strikes tho air and the wing of the ilreily cleaves it, thero is sound and there is mel ody. Aud, as to those utterances of nature which seem harsh and overwhelming, it is ns when you stand In the midst of a groat orchestra and the sound almost rends your ear because you are too near to catch tho blending of the music. So, ray friends, we stand too near the desolating storm and the frightful whirlwind to catch the blend ing of tho music; but when that musio rises to where God is, and the invisible being who float above us, then I suppose the harmony is as sweet as it is tremen dous T„ TH E judgment day, that day . luimilt aud terror, there will be no dissonance to those who can appreciate the music. It will be ns wlmn some times a great organist, in executing some great piece, breaks down tho in strument upon which bo is playing the music. So whon the great march of the judgment day is played under tho hand of earthquake and storm and conflagration the world Itself will break down with the music that la played on it. The fact Is, we are ul 1 deaf, or we should understand thnt the whole universe is but one harmony— the stnrs of the night only the ivory keys of a great instrument on which God's An gers play the music of the spheres. Music seems dependent on the law of acoustics aud mathematics, and yet where these laws are understood at all tho nrt Is practiced. There are to-day 500 musical journals In China. Two thousand years be fore Christ the Egyptians praoticed tho art. Pythagoras learned It. Lasus of Hermolno wroto essays on it. Plato and Aristotle in troduced It into their schools. But I have not much Interest In that. My chief inter est Is In the music of the Bible. Tho Bible, like a great harp with Innu merable strings, swept by the lingers of In spiration, trembles with it. So tar back as the fourth chuptor of Genesis you Hud the first orgnnist und harper—Jubal. So far back as tho thirty-first chapter of Genesis you find the llrst choir. All up and down tho Biblo you Hud sacred music—at wed dings, at inaugurations, at the treading of tho wine press. The Hebrews understood how to mako musUyil signs above tho mus ical text. When the Jews came from their Jistunt homes to the groat festivals at Jerusalem, they brought harp aud timbrel lud trumpet nnd poured along the great fudaean highways a river of harmony un :!1 in and around tho temple the wealth of t nation's song and gladness had accumu lated. In our duy we have a division of labor in music, uud we have one mau to xinke the hymn, auother man to make the tune, another man to play it on the piano ind another mau to sing it. Not go lu Bible times. Miriam, tho sifter of Moses, ifter the pussageof the Red Sea, composed i doxology, set It to music, clapped It on n iymbal and at tho sumo time sang it. David, the psalmist, was at the same tlino poet, musical composer, harpist und singer, md the majority of his rhythm goes vl plrating through all the ages. There were in Bible times stringed In struments—a harp of three strings played by fret and bow; a harp of ten strings, responding only to tho Augers of tho per former. Then thero was the orookod trum pet, fashionod out of the horn of the ox or the ram. Then thero were thesistrum and the cymbals, clapped in the danoe or beaten In the Thero were 4000 Levltes, the best men of the country, whoso only business It was to look after the music of the temple. These 4000 Levltos weie divided into two classes and offici ated on differeut days. Can you ''"ngine the harmony when those white Le vltes, before tho symbols of Go_ . pres ence, nnd by the smoking altars, and the candlesticks that sprung Upward and brauched out like trees of gold, aud under the wings of the chorubim, chanted tho One Hundred aud Thirty-sixth Psalm of David? Do you know how It was done. One part of that great choir stood up and chanted, "Oh, give thanks unto the Lord, for He la good!" Then the other part of the choir, atandlng In aome other part of the temple, would come In with the response, "For Ills mercy endureth forever." Then the first part would take up the song again nnd say, "Unto Him who only doetli great won ders." The other part of the choir would come In with overwbelmlug response, "For His mercy endureth forever," until in the latter part of the song, the music floating backward and forward, harmony grappling with harmony, every trumpet aoundtncr, ever? bo*om heaving, one part of tbls (front white robed obolr would lift the anthem. "Ob, Rive thanks onto the Ood of heaven," and the other part of the Levlte choir would come in with the response, "For His meroy endureth forever." But I am glnd to know that all through the ages there has been arreat attention paid to sacred music. Ambroslus, Augus tine, Gregory the Great, Charlemagne gave it their mighty Influence, and In our day the best musical genius Is throwing itself on the altars of God! Handel and Mozart and Bach and Durante nnd Wolf and scores of other men and women have given the best part of their genius to cliurcli music. A truth in words is not hair BO mighty as a truth In song. Luther's ser mons have been forgotten, but the "Judg ment Hymn" he composed is resounding yet through all Christendom. I congratulate the world and the church on the advancement made In tbls art—tho Edinburgh societies for the improvement of music, the Bwiss singing societies, the Exeter hall concerts, the triennial musical convocation at Dussoldorf, Germany, and Birmingham, England, the conservatories of music at Munich nnd Lelpslc, the Handel and Haydn and Harmonic and Mozart societies of this country, the academies of music in New York, Urooklyn, Boston, Charleston, New Orleans, Chicago and every city which hns any enterprise. Now, my friends, how are we to decide what is appropriate, especially tor church music ? There may be a great many differ ences of opinion. In some of the churches they prefer a trained choir; in others, the old style precentor. In some places they prefer the melodeon, the harp, the cornet, the organ. In other places they think these things are the Invention of the devil. Some would have a muslcnl Instrument played so loud you cannot stand It, and others would have it played so soft you cannot hear It. Some think a musical Instrument ought to be played only in tho interstice? of worship nnd then with indeseribablo softness, while others are not satlslled un less there be startling contrasts and stac cato passages that mako tho audience jump, with great eyes and balr on end, as from a vision of the witch of Endor. But. while there may be great varieties of opinion In regard to music, it seems to mo that the general spirit of the Word of God Indicates what ought to be the grent characteristics of church music. And I remark, in the first place, a prominont characteristic ought to bo adaptiveness to devotion. Music thnt may bo appropriate for a concert hall, or the opera house, or the drawing room, may be inappropriate In church. Glees, madrigals, ballads may be as innocent ns psalms iu their places. But church music has only 0110 design, and that is devotion, and that which comes with the toss, the swing and the display of an opera house is a hin drance td the worship. From such per formances we go awav saying: "What splendid executionl Did you ever honr such a soprano? Which of those solos did you like the better?" When, if we had been rightly wrought upon, we would have gone away saying: "Oil, how my soul was lifted up In the presence of Coil while they were singing that ilrst hymn! I never had such ranturous views of Jesus Christ as my Saviour as when thoy -,7 ere singing that last doxology." I remark also that correctness ought to be a characteristic of church music. While wo all ought to take part iu this service, with perhaps a fow exceptions, we ought at the same time to cultivate ourselves in this sncred art. God loves harmony, and wo ought to lovo it. There is no devotion in a howl or a yelp. In this day, when there are so mauy opportunities "of high culture in this art, I declure that those parents nre guilty of neglect who let their sons and daughters grow up knowing nothing about music. In some of the Eu ropean cathedrals the choir assemble evory morning and afternoon of every day tho whole year to perfect themselves In this art, and shall we begrudge tho half hour wo spend Friday nights in the re hearsal of sacred song for the Sabbath? Auother characteristic must be spirit and life. Music ought to rush from the audience like the water from a rock—clear, bright, sparkling. If all t'..o other part of the church service Is dull, do not have tho music dull. With so many thrilling things to sdng about, away with all drawling and stupidity. There Is nothing that makes me so nervous as to sit in a pulpit and look off on nn audience with their eyes three-fourths closed and their lips almost shut, mumbling tho praises of God. Dur ing one of my journeys I preached to an audience of 2000 or 3000 people, and all tho music they made together did not equal one skylark! People do not sleep at a cor onation, ao not let us sleep when we come to a Saviour's crowning. Again, I remark church music must be congregational. This opportunity must be brought down within the range of tho whole audience. A song that the wor shipers cannot sing is of no more use to them than a sermon In Choctaw. What an easy kind of church It must be where the minister does all the preaching, and the elders all the praying, and tho choir all the singing! There are but very few churches whoro there are "two hundred nnd forty and five singing men and singing women." In same churches It is almost considered a disturbance if a man lot out his voice to full compass, and the people get up on tip toe and look over between the spring hats and wonder whnt that man is making ail that noise about. In SyracJuse inn Presby torian church there was one member who camo to me when I was the pastor of an other church in that city, and told mo his troubie—how that as lie persisted in sing ing on the Sabbath day a committee, made up of tho session and tho choir, had come to ask him if he would not just please to keep stilil You have no right to sing. Jonathan Edwards used to sot upart whole days for singing. Lot us wako up to this duty. 1 want to rouse you to a unanlmitv in Christian soug that has never yet been ex hibited. Come, now; clear your throats and get ready for this duty or you will never hear the end of this. I never shall forget hearing a Frenchman sing the "Marseillaise" on the Champs Llvsees, Paris, just before tho battle of Sedan ID 1870. I never saw sucli enthusiasm before or since. As he sang that national air, oh, how the Frenchman shouted! Have you ever In an English assemblage heard a band play "God Save the Queen?" If you hnvo, you know something about the enthusiasm of a national air. Now, I tell you that these songs wo sing Sabbath by Sabbath are the national airs of tho kiugdom of heaven, and if you do not learn to sing them hero, how do you ever es pect to sing the song of Mosos and the Lamb? I should not be surprised at all if some of the best anthems of heaven were made up of some of the best songs of earth. May God Increase our reverence for Christian psalmodv and keep us from disgracing it by our lndlffor ence and frivolity. When Cromwell's nrmy went Into battl9, he stood at the head of It one day and gave out the long meter doxology tot he tuue of the "Old Hundredth," and that great host, company by company, regiment by regi ment, division by division, joined in the doxology: Praise Gol, from whom all blessings flow; Praise Him all creatures hero below; Praise Him above, ye heavenly ho9t; Praise Father, Son and Holy Ghost. And while they sang they marched, and while they marched they fought, and while they fought thoy got the victory. Oh, men und women of Jesu9 Christ, let us go into all our conflicts singing the praises of God and then, Instead of falling back, as often wo do, from defeat to defeat, we will be inarching on irora victory to victory. "Gloria In Excelsls" is written over many organs. Would that by our appreciation of tho goodne-s of God, and the mercy ol Christ, and the grandeur of heaven, we could have "Gloria In Excelsis" written over all our souls. "Glory to tho Futher, and to the Son, and to the Holy Ghost, as It was iu the beginning, is now and evei shall be. world without end. Amenl" OFF FOR A TRIP. "All ready to start?" "Yes; here is my Ivory Soap, that finishes my packing. I always lay in a supply before going on the road. It is one of the comforts a traveling man can carry .with him. ivory soap—it floats. COPVRIQHT BY THE PROCTER * QAMBLE CO. CINCINNATI Origin of Staterooms. The use of the word "staterooms" is applied to the cabins on a steamer )r other vassel is of curious origin. In ;he palmy days of steamboating on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers the pass »nger packets were fitted up with every iccommodation for the guests. It was :he cniitom on the better class of boats ;o name the otvbius after the various States of the Union. Thus there would be a "Virginia" cabin, a "Massachu setts" cabin, a "Maryland" cabin, eto. There was considerable rivalry as to which State should have the most j handsomely furnished cabin named I ifter it. Passengers coming from dif | ierent parts of the country took sides »nd often made it uncomfortable for steamboat captains when tbey imag ined that the State of their birth had been slighted, In consequence it gradually became the custom to num j ber the cabins instead of naming them. | This is now the universal rule, the I "Texas" alone surviving. As is fit j ting, the "Texas" is always thelargest ; :abin on the boat. It is used for sleep j ing quarters by the crew and is loca i ted immediately under the pilothouse. ■ But the name stateroom has stuck and is now in universal use. One of Scotl's Heroines. "Jeanie Deans," tbe heroine of Scott's novel, "The Heart of Mid , lothian," was in real life named Helen j Walker. The incidents related in ro gard to the trial and conviction of her ' sister were true in every detail, and j it was only by the efforts of Helen Walker in circulating a petition for ber sister's pardon that the latter's life was saved. Sir Walter Scott srected a tombstone to Helen Walker'a memory in the churchyard of Txon ?ray, with an inscription expressing his appreciation of her virtues.— Ladies' Home Journal. Ualnj; Natural Gas In England. A correspondent states that at last the natural gas at Heathfield, Sussex, has been put to practical use. The railway station has been lighted with it, after experiments with various burners. This new application has iroused a good deal of interest in sci entific ciroles, aud several natural history societies have visited the place »nd inspected the new arrangement. C. Dawson, P. G. 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