HOME -DRESSMAKING UP-TO-THE-MINUTE STYLES—By MAY MANTON ssryr SlLK AND VE^™R^,r RONOUNCED I__ Plain and fancy silks make a good effect, FAvOFxl lES _ T would be difficult to find a handsomer, development, the contrasting sleeves are smarter combination than the one * all-important just now, the pretty little }( meuse satin and, for the sturdier costumes, ~ .- e .. _ , , . , . . , . ■ . / i t *•<.!. ui i * • ~ . ~. ..a- • j■ . H\l ,1 TyiOHtV r . ~a . .... ... fjl ILKS are conspicuous among fash- tunic is seamed at the sides and t, shown here of black velvet with black chemisette of white chiffon gives a daintv v v)\ i w/vA\ French serge or chiffon broadcloth could be , , ... , . . ~ . , , ... ... . . . . „ ~ , . • vV-Hi W \Jv j i I , ..I. , T"L ... J lonable materials and there are just full enough to be pretty while and white striped silk and the gown is one touch and the high collar calls for especial n used in place of the velvet. The tunic is in .. « , . . . ... . ". . , _ .. * - , V J*\ a , . so many sorts included in the beneath it is a two-piece skirt. The of the newest and best in cut and style as attention inasmuch as it marks a departure N —> three pieces and flares effectively over the .. lL .. .. ~ ~ , ~ . . , , „ . . . . t a • f i " ~ ..... output that they arc available for cos- blouse with raglan sleeves is gracefu . well as in material. The blouse and tunic If more of a guinipe effect is wanted air! A\\ narrow two-piece skirt. It is joined to the . . , IT ~ . .. . , t ■-'! ,rc .pen at the front make the latest something lighter in effect, the sleeves c 0.,1 I fx blouse with the wide belt arranged over ° f nur " ber,es9 »" rt9 ' Here * a " d becoming and, in common with be made of chiffon to match the chemisette ' both. ' ,mp 6 °" e ,!? "° Wered " t ,s , of the sort ' " lake " / «i • v it - . | * or child 9 dress while striped silk Silk and velvet are pronounced favor for thin, unlined sleeves are greatly in vogue .... , . . . t . . . .... W iiiW ■ WT & with trimming of velvet is the ma- ites this season and the combination is y terial chosen for the woman's costume. beautiful but it is easy to think of aS 0r of rhar LATEST FASHION NOTES FROM \ THE REDINGOTE AND SUSPENDER ""TL-JP ETAQI— esting than the development combined with plain, and the color of EFFFCT IS YOUTHFUL AND 1 1 11 -' 1 I I—<lVD of the basque. It has been evolved the plain and of the darker stripe is DI7/^"OIV/TIM/"* A ... ' nto a " sor * s charming creation? Labrador blue, one of the new shades Vj S a matter of course, the latest garment w.th long set-in sleeve, and and nlodified t0 , uit all necds , an;i which is especially adapted to the frfshuns reflect the military slightly open neck. The neck is fin- here it is utilized as one of the prettiest . younger contingent. For the early ardine taking the place of the striped wonderfully beautiful wool velouri i< ea. . s common y is lie is e wit a eep rue co * itetu. e and smartest possible costumes for season, no better material could be in this design, or in place of the velvet woven in corduroy effect that are ex case, current events have their innu- which, even while it stands away from young girls and small women. There W suggested, either from the standpoint could be used velveteen or corduroy. ceedingly handsome in combination ence and there is a great deal of braid tie throat, gives evidence of the is a narrow, plain, two-piece skirt and \k S of wear or of smartness, but we are If something lighter and thinner is with fur or broadcloth or other con app !C somew iat .i t< rt e e>i rC ",! , le %e a "' roa totiare ovcr that skirt a plaited tunic and a Jgv beginning a long season and the model wanted, charmeuse satin could be used trasting material, the military, there are various mill- combined in the bodice which is basque which are joined one to the can be utilized for many needs and with the gabardine or with some silk tary trimmings and a great many of elaborately trimmed with braid and ol h C r. making » one-piece garment. for many materials. It would be ex- that contrasts well with the satin sur- r-i-»,ir . ~ , the costumes suggest the uniforms embroidery. The long sleeve, are ' ''ZST ]ceedingly handsome with the plain face. It is a season of wonderful T "7, T wonderfully in coloring. As has been stated pre- close-fitting at the wrists but laid V*\V '■ '■ •"/ , , . , , ........ . , _ v\ WtA l '/'.'/ portions of velvet and with plain gab- %anety, both in color and in fabrics, X e . ... Mously, a great deal of broadcloth is open at the outer edges to reveal r and it is easy to make combinations combined silk and wool witli to be worn both f(?r street costumes pretty frills of tulle that match th? f '• _ without number Bnidin with so!' tr ' mm * n ß portions of flowered taf and for indoor gowns and broadcloth neck ruche. In this instance, there it ' ' /*••• 7* -.Vtache and embroidery on lain ma ' Cta c^cm * Bette an( * cuffs of wliitvj lends itself to the military idea with no sash covering the edge of th • | terials is much used and "gpe is just a littL perfect success, although the military bod.ee but, as a safe general rub I) i&wlj/; handsome effect could be obtained by than , the L a " B ' lk and pcrhapi idea fs apparent in the costumes of these garments with the extremely lo.v Br/L ZSv evening as well as in those of daytime waists, suggestion for which is foun I • f v : j\ <y plain portions of the basque and cuff," a,,y s,litcd t0 #ucl > a drCM as thl, on? occasions. A white satin gown, for in the middle ages, are relieved at th Jfe I'&SiS IKI f 'and. since the embroidery is all dons ?"<» very beautiful line) and example, shows the corsage confined waist by belts or girdle or som: /faffV ft'{ 1&&&W EV with heavy threads neither treatment «® ,ds - J he « « a simple one in by a garment that resembles the coat finish of the sort. This particular o:v | < j / represents any great amount of labor. 1 lrc< ; P ,CCM " The blouse is made in of mail and this garniture is just a » made with a separate skirt but A <.l / '! A For the simple costume adapted to • fapane9e sty,e that a,wa y» meint mass of silver beads on gauze. Asa there ,s a very marked tendency M//////ff\ V 'M school or to college need,, gabardine h" l ® and the suspenders and wid.- matter of course, the severity is soft- toward simple gowns of the one-piece F* - "vfAV>y if ft ft ff\ /: l| |V: if;*J A I in fjf.'j -3 /fjsffl \ could be used throughout arc arranged a, a garniture. Tha ened and there is a long scarf of the order: that is to say, with body and // fj 4 fj B frAi /" f ; - I A frill is attached to the lower edge of thi tulle from one shoulder to the hem of skirt portions in one, the extremely -mT '/// // ff []EA p: ' v{V<V- i-f-'K-"--!' 1 flj -j l J /'i/If l\ * belt and gives the pretty ripple effect the garment and the skirt with its ,ow waist line defined by a belt or fj fj ff (1//k I, 'v it / j*'? 3T//t belted coat giving a redingote that is fashionable just now. If pre long train has a pointed tunic that is girdle or sash. For morning wear and 1 ;IH 0 rjuffuf o\ ! . I \ t lM'*W 's& \ X e^ect ' s not alone a new and in- ferred, the sleeves can be made Ion? fur trimmed but, nevertheless, the simple occasions, broadcloth, serge ( .fUtt (if ri U jj F J/sPo \ teresting one, it also is extremely and long sleeves unquestionably are tj military suggestion is there. al, d gabardine are favorite fabrics Hnlf /' ypjpjw\ 1 V % f\ L becoming and youthful in effect and, have vogue this winter although the a , for their making but the same models N — 1 i Hi/ / tf*irAT ft 1 consequently, well suited to the younger shorter ones are very generally liked ;« m:>j Xrrr "Itf t •! nf | "I'*" """I are to be found in velvet and in the I I B[jS fj ' ■' i " V- ;: • : J' I mm / I? f* contingent. Here is one that prac- for indoor wear. Various suggestiom rnTneWh / » < rkhcr of the cos- 1 wWA If fM M'&M® 11 h. / 1/ tica,,y » a blol,sc with fu » ski » might be made for the making Taf- Kin* that ; 3 i U -%! an r ° at ° tumes are shown in beautiful shade* ff jfKi J II / Mif H-IJ{st\ tached so that it is exceedingly easy to feta would be pretty for the blouse, of <(«!wr 1 bci K c chamois that are partial- t£Lsf / M / Vr r • .. . r. r n' r j ' ar 'V handsome in broadcloth. Al. '{ tl J S ' r ll'rh iff OV / features. If it is to be worn with a belt of velvet or of other contrasting with red whilo thl'l aar t ready the idea is being elaborated with I ' • v; j|| / - / tunic skirt, it can be made shorter but, material or, in place of silk and wool, rmhrnuWwi .. iti - V-Plf in combination with a plain skirt, the crfpe in all wool could be used or, if . ~ S ' Xrr ' ' " ILC le with embroidery with metallic thread* Ml Wt Pk 1 tYV '! ' t"}' fill /-if / '»* f!l'' "X I length illustrated is to be preferred. something more dressy is wanted, on dress uniforms of Europe are often | | «:|S The wide belt is especially interesting of the satin finished silks, such a, d>ar csp cn on igoam un \ j n a ] most ever y possible way. th? IB j fljl lv*-1 I-/.:::' • • fljl I'-fr'l ,v V, WK r i a attract ' ve * In the illustration, meuse or liberty, while, for every day gan eco or* are >n i.in i lere is hint of the military costume appears. Iff '/ CIB lu 1 v:.*-' : I!• v f Jll |"v* 1;»T-' •.£*'£* one of the new cloaking materials with occasions, challis or cashmere would TI great deal allowed What is known as the redingote dres, I * | 111 I B & V ."' a rough finish is trimmed with velvet be pretty for the blouse and skirt, with re ina ing, ie >e=a i s really a long, loose polonaise over a I ' } \ 111 1m ' - v r .."-|< ' s V.'v; .-'i;- but there are exceedingly beautiful the suspenders and the belt of ribbon ereo . ,\en uie ere is not ling gtraight narrow skirt. It is exceed- / 7 I u 111 fabrics shown, among them a great or of flowered silk or some similar really suggeative of the uniform ,n the i ng ly well liked in serge with the I M 11 H fIHKHHV 'V/ many of the ribeline order and some material, cut, there are hints in the use of the glecves skirt and pcrlia the t II / I Mil "f ' * ' v i^ri^r , sE IN 1 • TIWI HINTS for the HOME NEEDLEWOMAN greater number of coats are made „„„ a. .u , ... ~ l| ! ' i 1 In > A KJ\\ ■.!"• S' : a , . , .... with high close-fitting collars. For one , At the moment b!ue with black M / A) \\\ . design for embroidering a child's padded and button-holed. The dots, very elaborate costumes the silver * a ® combln ation but the I j IR />T \ % I .J.\| /A dress. flowers and leaves can be worked either and gold braids are liked but, for the T- USed .!.* V, ? h ! y It \ 11 The scalloped edges are to be solidly or as -eyelets. The stems are to similar ones, silk braid is the preferred !" " I 1 one and black and matching colors P Y " j\ I j | 1 l|| /| ' 7 withi n the scallops ovcr the 8 Some of the shades of brown are II I . ■ j||| Iji fj.> jJI 11 / ] \ i ij \ to the back edges. While too many gowns are being exceedingly beautiful with blue of the nWll K lif| IDT /**&**&£* I f |i \ /f* t * H /•*! T , „ ... made with open necks to allow any correct tone and an exceedingly attract- frtm-J / krftvdJ , I I r.'Av'.if.' A ? T /j To pad the scallops, work chain statement as to the general use of the ive imported model is made of brown /./ /tTTT / 'l' I / / M stitch between the lines, heavier at the higher effect, nevertheless there is velvet with a sash of old blue broad- V«/{WfY? Ojif j '/I • I jt JM '• I center and lighter at the points; or cut a tendency to be noted. An exceed- cloth while the accompanying blouse 8383 J / [ l ,LF Vj l ; '-•'vj'V' 'lf \ ( / ''f l a skein of thread and apply two or more ingly handsome gown that shows a is of white crtpe de chine with the I J iT Tift strands over the center of the stamped number of new features combines collar of the same blue cloth. This (1 ill \\\ jT V \ , ...... broadcloth with velvet. There is a blouse, and indeed most of the blouses /ij A K..-L..L. 4 jj I 111 Jp jGg \ \ U iflßS' ;■ W\ pattern, keeping within the lines, tack plain flaring skirt of the cloth that is that are made of thin material, show / Jl\ 1 I, | j 1 | 111 V \ J| t'f | 7 | \ here and there in couching style, gath tlightly full at the upper edge and this the Japanese sleeves but, for everything ( j 111 ill 111 Iti-™ / ' \ ering the threads closely at each point * skirt is joined to what might be called of the tailored order, the »et-iii .fi I , 1 II 111 \fl [' "if ijj]—"'''"\ of the scallops; then buttonhole closely . short, fitted basque or cuirass-like sleeves are preferred. V ULJj U.tjJlU vcr the fottndarion.
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