LONG TUNICS AND BASQUE * EFFECTS, THE TWO GREAT EST SENSATIONS OF THE SEASON Opinons Differ as to What Form They Will Take in the Autumn. By MAY MANTON AS yet there Is no tendency to wards the small waist that usually goes hand in hand with phe basque effect. AH the garments of Ithe sort that have appeared are seml- Jfitting and allow the natural figure |that is the latest demand. Whether or mot we 6hall be able to resist the temp tation towards the "hour glass effect" (if the basque takes a really firm hold lis for the future to determine. It is (doubtful if anyone would have the icourage to make a prediction at this (stage of development. We are con tinually hearing it said that women have grown too accustomed to freedom Ito consent to tight lacing, that such folly belongs only to the age that did not know the joy of athletics and pleasures of the kind but, if there is any real limit that can be set as to the extremes to which women will go when Fashion sets the pace, it has not yet been discovered. While we hope that the natural figure will be retained end all the indications point that way, irxperience teaches that women stand iready to make their figures over at any demand of La Mode whether that demand entails discomfort or does not. 9MO 58 gjf 88 THERE is something exceedingly graceful and attractive about the simple flaring coats that *re so fashionable this summer. The one to the left is made from soft silk showing a flower design. It is charm ingly summerlike in effect and it trimmed with ribbon frills. ONE of the pronounced feature* of the season is tbe use of contrasting materials or colors in a gown and here are two designs that illustrate that point in quite dif ferent ways. The gown, illustrated on Figure J, shows a combination of plain materia! with Roman striped The plain color if- a 6oft tan and the ground of striped fabric matches it perfectly. The blouse is gathered and joined to a plain vest portion. This vest is rolled over to form a collar and a second collar is arranged over the first. The sleeves are joined to the blouse at the long shoulder line. The skirt is in two pieces with a straight gathered flounce arranged over it at yoke depth. The next gown shows a very beauti ful shade of blue crfpe de chine com bined with black satin. The blouse is a simple one, the fronts are faced and turned back to form the revers and the plaited collar is attached to the upper edges of the revers and the neck edge. The skirt is cut in two piece*. In this case, it is made with a shaped tunic and insets at the seams. These are both fashionable features but may be omitted if a plain skirt U preferred. THE dance has been mSde such an important feature during the summer that suitable gowns and suitable wraps are quite certain to be needed at this season. This last coat is one of the prettiest and most graceful that could be suggested. It gives something of a cape effect, yet it is made with raglan sleeves. It is easy to slip on and off and it is ex tremely pretty and becoming. As shown here, it is made of moir£ silk in s pale shade of yellow with black velvet collar but it could be copied in light colored broadcloth, in char meuse satin rr in golfine or in any material suitable for a wrap and soft enough to take graceful folds. The wide frill makes a most effective finish but it is not necessary for the plain edges also are smart and the sugges tion in the back view is a good one. The skirt is just a plain two-piece one with a deep flounce of lace arranged over it and the material of the skirt is rrtpe de chine while the lace is the pretty dainty shadow sort which is Npecially youthful in effect. The first basques were cut to extend to or below the hips and a great many still are made in that way but the very newest models show a somewhat shorter length and are perhaps a Ilttls prettier and less severe. The fullnesi or rucked effect at the sides is arranged to give a girdle suggestion, too, and, in spite of the fact that the basque i» comparatively a new garment, it hai already taken on a great many inter estir- forms. At the first reading of velvet worn at the French races, we were a little impressed with the incongruity of the material in warm weather but our own reason has been such a cool one that velvet capes and some velvet basquei are being seen on this side of the sea. A handsome costume that exploits the idea, and incidentally certain other new features, consists of a skirt of white taffeta flounced with white net and a basque the upper portion o( which is of black velvet, the lower fuller portion of black satin. The fatin portion gives quite the effect of a draped corselet or girdle and the sleeves are very pretty ones, long but with the lower satin portions drawn up IT IS THE QUAINT TOUCH THAT MAKES THE HOME T>RESSM ever the velvet tops in a way that always is effective. The neck shaping, too, is important, for the basque ii V-shaped at the front but with a ttraight military collar at the back above which rises a soft frill of net that makes a very pretty and be coming finish. Fancy skirts of one sort or another are the universal ones with basques, for all students of fashions know that plain bodices and fancy skirtj will always go hand in hand. Lace, tulle, light colored silks, all material of the kind are used for skirts with taffeta, velvet and charmeuse satin for basques. One of the moat recent of the basque* is in kimono style with V-shaped neck and the only ornaments are the hand some buttons that effect the closing. As seen at a recent fashionable gath ering, it was made of black charmeuse satin with a long tunic of white lace over a skirt of satin, the tunic being open for a few inches at each side and finished with a little ball fringe that weighted it successfully. Already it will be seen that the everity of the let-in sleeves has been modified and the kimono basque is one of the very latest developments. The idea too is being applied to tummer material with .good results and the handsome brocaded and striped ratings seem peculiarly well adapted to its use. As pretty a costume of the simpler all-white sort as the season has brought forth combines white rating showing a brocaded stripe with plain white voile. It consists of a skirt of the voile faced to the depth of the tunic with the rating and a long tunic of plain material accordion plaited, while the basque Is of the heavier rating with sleeves of the voile and there is a wide sash of white satin draped over the lower edge. Combinations of materials make a really important feature of summer fashions. The heavier rating with the voile makes a good example of the simpler costumes while the use of taffeta and charmeuse with lace, tulle and the like is constantly being em phasized for those of the more elaborate sort. While taffet?. is much liked and much exploited, there is a very marked tendency toward the use of charmeuse and the way in which velvet is turned to account for trimmings and for wraps is especially interesting. A very beautiful costume seen on one of our few really fine days consisted of a skirt and basque of white charmeuse satin with a long tunic while the accom panying wrap was a cape of white broadcloth lined with black velvet and, until the combination has been seen, it is a little difficult to realize it* charm. TRULY It is something of an inno vation to bring out new fashions in the late summer but has recognized no precedent, has estab lished its own laws and this month of August has brought us extremely attractive modelc. charming gowns and smart costumes that will be avail able not for the present alone but also through the early autumn. Basques, tunics and capes in their many varie ties take an important place among the novelties and in the picture are shown excellent examples of them all. The gown at the center made of rtriped taffeta is both new and replete with interest. The long tunic and circular shaping give exceptionally graceful lines and the pretty full bodice with collar and cuffs of white silk sounds an entirely new note. At the left is shown one of the cape coats and with it still another varia tion of the tunic with a narrow skirt beneath. It would be handsome de veloped in almost any seasonable ma terial but the one illustrated combine* s ekirt of charmeuse «atin with a tunio •nd coat of crtpe silk trimmed with the charmeuse. Basques come to us with sorru familiarity to the older generation at least but are really a product of t!is season. They are not tight fitting •nd they are ant to be draped in on* way or another, the straight severe closing being perhaps the only really reminiscent feature. This one is among the best, including as it does the flaring collar, and it is particularly smart with a box plaited skirt. The white taffeta illustrated is one of the best liked materials of the season but SMART AND DAINTY CAPS ARE BOTH PRETTY AND BECOMING CAPS to be worn in the privacy of the home during the morning hours have become an estab lished feature of fashionable dress. They serve the double purpose of 8204 Boudoir Caps, One Size. FASHIONABLE COLLARS ARE DISTINCTIVE IN STYLE AND CUT IT has been well and truly said that the accessories often make or mar the costume and this season the statement might almost be narrowed down to collars.' Collars are exceed ingly important. They fill a really big place in fashionable dress and new ones are in every way distinctive in style and cut. In the picture are three good styles. The one on the figure is made after the Normandy fashion with big points and, as shown here, it ii made of organdie lined with itself, that being a favorite material for collars this season. If a daintier effect is wanted, a little embroidery can be used on the points but the plain stitched edges are smart. Collar No. I shows the new pointed back weighted with a tassel and collar No. 3 makes FOR THE HOME NEEDLE WOMEN Design for Embroidering an Oval Doyley eleven inches wide by seventeen inches long in Roman cut work. THE scalloped edge is to be padded and buttonholed the dots can be worked either a» eyelets or solidly. All the narrow spaces between the double lines are to be closely button holed, the material between the purled edge* cut away and the spaces this costume seems to suggest combi nations and would be extremely , handsome with a basque of one ma terial and 6kirt of another if the two were harmonious and it is whispered that basques of brocade over plain silk and all similar effects will be exceed ingly smart for the autumn. being pretty arid becoming and of allowing the hair to be loosely coiled and to take a rest. These models are among the newest. They are exceed ingly smart and becoming yet are perfectly simple. The one to the left of the picture is finished with a grad uated frill at the back of the neck and, as shown here, the crown portion it made of alternate strips of lace inser tion and ribbon but it can be cut from all-over lace, net or any similar material. The double frill that finishea the front edge and the coquettish bow of ribbon make an attractive finish. The plainer round cap is made with a smooth crown and shirred portions attached to it. There is a casing in which the ribbon is inserted to draw the cap up closely about the head. the latest variation of the sailor model. All three collars stand away from tha neck, that being an all-important feature of summer styles. No. 1 or No. 3 will require yd., No. 2 % yd. 27 or 36 in. wide with yds. of braid for No. J. 8234 Set of Collars, One Sij» filled with fancy stitches as illustrated. For greater strength, the single threads can be button-holed over. The veins of the leaves are to be outlined, the stamens of the roses outlined with < French knots for the pollen. > To pad the scallops rapidly and | effectively, work chain stitch between r the lines, heavier at the center, lighter at the points or cut a skein of thread, apply two or more strands over the center of the stamped pattern, keep ing within the lines; tack here' and there in couching style, gathering the threads closely together at each point of the scallops, then proceed to button hole closely over the foundation
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