Harrisburg telegraph. (Harrisburg, Pa.) 1879-1948, April 03, 1914, Image 17

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GREAT interest ia being displayed
in the coming fashions, ap
parently, hip® are to grow
■ oader and broader, draperies being
•ilected at that point, and, conse
uently, skirts look narrower at the
ottom whether they actually ate or
are not. Everything that suggests
:he bustle idea is conspicuous, too, and
draperies that are caught up at the
back and sashes that are bowed and
looped and arranged in various ways
to give something of the same effect
-re mentioned in almost every account.
vVhile it is rumored that some of the
leading houses give evidence of a ten
dency toward increasing use of ma
terial, as yet it does not mean any
real widening of skirts, although it is
impossible to tell what may be (4t
veloped in the next few months. The
House of Premet is reported as show
ing costumes suggestive of the 1830
period with hand embroidered pan
talettes showing below the gowns,
but such extremes may usually be
put down as advertising devices rather
than models that are expected to take
any permanent hold. This is the age
of exploitation. In place of the two
cr three great Parisian dressmakers of
a generation ago who really held the
feminine world under domination, we
i now have so big a number that adver-
tising has become essential and
metaphorical bells are rung with more
or ' eae clanger as may be. Much that
it heralded on this side of the sea as
r.ew, really owes its origin to just such
1 conditions and, because of that very
fact, it behooves the woman of re
finement to be a little cautious and
to use reason and common sense in
considering these things.
Certain facts are, however, estab
lished. Taffeta is to be a pronounced
favorite both for spring and summer;
ferge is to be used both for gowns
and for street costumes: charmeuse
fatin continues all its vogue: all the
cr€pe effects are to be fashionable both
for suits and for indoor gowns and,
{ should be good news to lovers of
(aintiness; white organdie is the latest
material for blouses, chemisettes and
the Normandy collars that, unques
tionably, will make a feature of spring
THERE ewms to be no end to the possibilities found ?n the Tapan-se sleeves.
Here is an extremely novel effect, the sleeve portions being held in posi
tion by means of buttons. This treatment is as pretty as it is new. Tha
model is so planned that two materials can be used with great success. but one i
a£o correct. One hardly thinks of the great designers as considering the home
dressmaker but, nevertheless, the models for this spring are especially adapted
tc their needs. For the medium size, the gown will require 3¥i yards of plain material
end 1)4 yards of fancy material 44 inches wide, with yard of charineuse satin 27.
VEST effects are among the important and novel features of spring designs
Here is 6een a gown that is equally well adapted to wear upon the street
and for indoor occasions. The vest and peplum give a hint of the coat
idea, yet they are fashionable for afternoon gowns. Such a model is appropriate
for the bridge luncheon, for afternoon tea, or for any occasion that calls for half
tresi*. In the illustration, taffeta i& trimmed *ith brocade and gives an extremely
unart rffecf. lor the mi-dium the gown will require 414 yards of material 44
inc.hptt ? ide uith yard for the trimming- Patterns 10 cents each.
fL <j
The Newest and Smartest in the World of Dress.
\i|| I! : MTi 4L." | jr 1 I 'HE illustration on the left shows a gown that includes all the newest and
\ ! I 1 if) |t- IjjjM'ji.--j X Bmai "test features of the season. The blouse is of the peasant sort finished
V • I fi frill which forms a most becoming frame and the tunic gives breadth over the hip}
jVii I HII 9212 15+ and the frill beneath the pretty fluffy effect that is so much liked.
l\i //J 8215 Tunic dresses for girls are among the most fashionable to be found just now and,
l\\l [. ,jj I eince they are as simple and easy to make as they are pretty and becoming, they
8218 \ W fi seem to combine all advantages. This one shown in group is made with straight
t \ if, i MBffjt plaited skirt joined to a belt and tunic that is closed at the back. The shaping of
\ \\ —fl I M* m 8213 the tunic and of the elbow sleeves harmonize prettily with the shaping of the yoke.
\iM ' Soft, full waists arc the prevailing ones of the season. They can be utilized for
|§tea*--T3g* < V crtpe de chine or for the pretty cotton voiles and marquisettes and for all the
y JOT materials that are thin and soft enough to be made full. For the trimming, a con-
trasting fabric will be needed but contrast can be found in plain color as well as in
brocade and the like. This blouse is adapted to the occasions of dress.
WE herewith take pleasure in
informing you that this
spring is about to be an
exceedingly bubbling and fluffy and
generally inconsequent and bewitching
spring. "As the twig is bent" you
know, and we have been doing some
very pertinent investigating these few
weeks past as to just in which direc
tion and how far the twigs of Fashion
are to be bent.
Well, bent they most assuredly are.
A straight line may be the shortest dis
tance between two points but mathe
matics has little in common with fash
ions this season. The straight line
iiinply is not visible. Every single line
is "bent," in other words, curved.
C<JO p«il»n for Cmbroldwint a Dollar 7Q»7 Deslgm of Water Lilies lor Em- CO*} an Embroidered Can.
O0£» T«i uid Ow-Half Imkw In DJ»- »s®/ broidering a Cuihion Top ur Scbrf tar-Cloth, in Sweat Pea Matil,
meter. Ends. Twenty-Two Inches In Diameter.
rE scalloped edge Is to be
padded and buttonholed The
lines representing the table and
tmoke and the outline of the teapot,
and cups and saucers are to be done
in outline stitch. The flowers on the
cups and teapot can be done in out
line stitch or in long and short stitch
or can be worked solidly in Keii
ilftfton style.
Pad the scallop* by darning back
ward and forward several times, or
working chain stitch between the lines
and then buttonhole closely over the
foundation. To outline the steins
take short stitches, keeping the needle
tornnnJ the right and work upward
Take the shoulder line—sloping of!
for the most part into the kimono
sleeve. The waist line curves up in
front. The hip line flares out either
in the tunic or in the ripple ot the
drapery of the skirt proper and coat
lines courteously curve out of the way
to be accommodating. Even the skirt
bottoms do not han« evenly but con
form to the vagaries of the skirt
So of course it naturally follows that
the materials we are to use will be
"curvable" ones There are a variety
of new crinkly silks and crSpes that
almost of thenibelved fall into the
proper folds.
PE entire design can be worked
in long and short stitch with
the stems outlined, or in solid
embroidery, or in a combination of
rolid embroidery with long and shott
stitch, or outline stitch can be used
for the entire design or in combination
with long and short stitch.
To outline, take short stitches
keeping the needle toward the right
and work upward. For solid embroid
ery pad by darning backward and
forward and cover closely with over
and over stitch working in the op
posite direction of the padding.
Poplin is essentially smart and every
woman will be glad to hear that taffeta
is to have extended vogue. It will be
used for suits as well as for gowns and,
in its latest development it is a pliable
fabric, and possessed of a sheen that
is a real delight. For the useful cos
tume of hardier service, mohair is
shown in excellent colors and in that
improved weave that seems to belong
to all up-to-date fabrics. Gabardine
is to extend its favor through the
spring and, in its lighter weight, it is
effective and durable. In weave, it
gives the suggestion of the material we
have always known as covert cloth but
i» is much finer and more pliable and
deserves to be ranked as new.
THE scalloped edges are first
to be padded and then button
holed; the leaves and flowers
ore to be worked in solid Kensington
stitch with the stems outlined and
the dots made solidly or the flowers
and leaves may be worked in the Ion?
and short stitch, or the design all
carried out in simple outline stitch.
Pad the scallops by darning bark
ward and forward ,-everal time*- and
then buttonhole closrly over this
foundation, or work chain stitch be
tween the lines. When making the
solid Kensington stitch always
a petal or leaf at the top and work
toward the base; take one, two. three
*hort stitches and then a long stitch.
EXTREMELY wide girdles are to
be much worn throughout the
Spring. Smart ones arc shown
made of black moire silk laid in folds
about the waist and finished top and
bottom with plaited frills.
Blouses of colored voile and colored
lawn are being shown for wear with
white suits and white skirts. Pretty
ones are made of yellow voile with
collar and cuffs of white batiste.
Almost every smart neck garnitur?
shows some touch of black and the
leading shops are exploiting novel
black ribbon ties finished with tassels
and ornaments of beads.
For the penetrating cold davs th%t
come with the melting snows are
offered very pretty sleeveless iackets
of white knitted wool over color and
of color over white.
The ruch of tulle is always welcome
for between seasons wear. Charming
ones are shown of the material in
creamy white with black velvet ties
and a big black velvet bow at the
center back.
Fancy Japanese materials are being
much used for trimmings. One of tha
handsomest is pongee printed in de
signs similar to those found in tho
Paisley shawls.
Women who trave' will be glad to
know of kimonos made of real fapanese
silks prettily embroidered and packed
awav in envelope cases of the same.
The garment and case together mean
scarcely appreciable weight and the
kimonos are made in the Americanized
It is the day of the nerk'ac*: there,
fore, new ones from the Orient show
ing imitation cat's eyes that are won
derfully successful and which »ell for
a moderate price will be of interest.
Every woman finds it necessary to
carry a powder puff in her wrist bag.
New and dainty ones are made from
glove handkerchiefs. The little puff
is attached right at the center and
beading is sewed in a circle, then
threaded with ribbon and drawn up
to form a little bag. In some instances,
the corners of the handkerchief are
allowed to fall loose: in others again,
they are turned over and embroidered.
This is a season that demands such
l-?.rmony in costumes as to 'require
special accessories for every toilet.
New ornamental airpins are set with
stones in various col rs to match tha
fashionable gowns.
THE figured materials of the season are wonderfully beautiful in color and this
plain fabrics show really marvelous texture so that the combination cos
tumes are unusually beautiful. These illustrate interesting features and
widely different and equally smart belted effects.
The peplum that flares over the hips and the skirt that is looped up directly
at the front are eminently new and eminently smart. This costume shows both
features and, incidentally, is a suggestion for the use of contrasting materials.
In this case, plain and figured foulard are combined, but crt'pe can be used in tin
tame way, or any two fabrics that harmonize one with the other.
THE second costume elves something of the Russian eTect but indutes also
the new raglan sleeves which are essentially smart this seaon, ani also
one ot the new skirts that is drapeJ at the back. In the picture, the blouss
If made from a fancy material while t ie skirt is plain and such combinations are
to be much used; but it is always possible to make variations from a single design
and an entire Kown of on? material such as silk an I wool poplin would be
equally fashionable. The skirt is made with a yoke that dispenses with bulk around
the waist, and is finished separately. Patterns IU cents eaefo.
A new hat pin is always a subject
of interest. lust now we are seeing
pretty ones with slender heads of
carved deer horn, the ends set with
brilliant stones.
Simply dainty organdie is a chosen
material for some of the hsw acces
sories!. It is shown in the latest
puimpes an ' in the newest chemisettes
with flaring collars. As a rule, it is
lined with itself and, in most instances,
the edges are plain although picot
edges are seen.
Embroidery makes a feature of new
fashions. Extremely handsome sashes
are shown of wide ribbon with a sin :1a
6pray of flowers embroidered on each
The tunic so completely transforms
the gown that it is a practical as well
as fashionable feature. Ready made
ones are offered in black silk that can
be worn over bluck or colored gowns.
Bead necklaces and bead chains are
very nearly übiquitous. Extremely
handsome ones of imitation clouded
amber are offered, both color and ma
terial so closely resembling the genuine
as to require an expert to detect thu
The short, narrow skirts make shoes
an important feature of the toilette.
For the spring are offered Colonial
slippers with the quarters of brocaded
Silk and ribbon La Vallieres are tha
latest development of that favorito
ornament. They are made in various
colors finished with bead pendants
and often with bead slides. In some in
stances. they are made of the silk cut
bias to form a double fold in some
instances an inch wide, in others not
more than a quarte .
Taffeta blouses are being much
worn with spring suits. Charming
ones are made in the simple Japanese
style finished only with Pierrette frills
of lace or double net.
Jet is fast becoming a craze. New
hats are shown entirely of that ma
terial, the only trimming a Mercury's
wing at each side.
Round collar and cuff sets always
are welcome. Charming new ones ara
made of crisp, sheer organdie embroid
ered by hand and edged with Valen
ciennes lace.