FADS FANCIES OF * FASHION GREAT interest ia being displayed in the coming fashions, ap parently, hip® are to grow ■ oader and broader, draperies being •ilected at that point, and, conse uently, skirts look narrower at the ottom whether they actually ate or are not. Everything that suggests :he bustle idea is conspicuous, too, and draperies that are caught up at the back and sashes that are bowed and looped and arranged in various ways to give something of the same effect -re mentioned in almost every account. vVhile it is rumored that some of the leading houses give evidence of a ten dency toward increasing use of ma terial, as yet it does not mean any real widening of skirts, although it is impossible to tell what may be (4t veloped in the next few months. The House of Premet is reported as show ing costumes suggestive of the 1830 period with hand embroidered pan talettes showing below the gowns, but such extremes may usually be put down as advertising devices rather than models that are expected to take any permanent hold. This is the age of exploitation. In place of the two cr three great Parisian dressmakers of a generation ago who really held the feminine world under domination, we i now have so big a number that adver- tising has become essential and metaphorical bells are rung with more or ' eae clanger as may be. Much that it heralded on this side of the sea as r.ew, really owes its origin to just such 1 conditions and, because of that very fact, it behooves the woman of re finement to be a little cautious and to use reason and common sense in considering these things. Certain facts are, however, estab lished. Taffeta is to be a pronounced favorite both for spring and summer; ferge is to be used both for gowns and for street costumes: charmeuse fatin continues all its vogue: all the cr€pe effects are to be fashionable both for suits and for indoor gowns and, { should be good news to lovers of (aintiness; white organdie is the latest material for blouses, chemisettes and the Normandy collars that, unques tionably, will make a feature of spring styles. SPRING OF SPRING DESIGNS BY MAY MAN TON THERE ewms to be no end to the possibilities found ?n the Tapan-se sleeves. Here is an extremely novel effect, the sleeve portions being held in posi tion by means of buttons. This treatment is as pretty as it is new. Tha model is so planned that two materials can be used with great success. but one i a£o correct. One hardly thinks of the great designers as considering the home dressmaker but, nevertheless, the models for this spring are especially adapted tc their needs. For the medium size, the gown will require 3¥i yards of plain material end 1)4 yards of fancy material 44 inches wide, with yard of charineuse satin 27. VEST effects are among the important and novel features of spring designs Here is 6een a gown that is equally well adapted to wear upon the street and for indoor occasions. The vest and peplum give a hint of the coat idea, yet they are fashionable for afternoon gowns. Such a model is appropriate for the bridge luncheon, for afternoon tea, or for any occasion that calls for half tresi*. In the illustration, taffeta i& trimmed *ith brocade and gives an extremely unart rffecf. lor the mi-dium the gown will require 414 yards of material 44 inc.hptt ? ide uith yard for the trimming- Patterns 10 cents each. fL <j COMPOSITE SUITS ONE OF THE EXTREME NOVELITIES OF THE SPRING FASHIONS The Newest and Smartest in the World of Dress. BY MAY \i|| I! : MTi 4L." | jr 1 I 'HE illustration on the left shows a gown that includes all the newest and \ ! I 1 if) |t- IjjjM'ji.--j X Bmai "test features of the season. The blouse is of the peasant sort finished V • I fi frill which forms a most becoming frame and the tunic gives breadth over the hip} jVii I HII 9212 15+ and the frill beneath the pretty fluffy effect that is so much liked. l\i //J 8215 Tunic dresses for girls are among the most fashionable to be found just now and, l\\l [. ,jj I eince they are as simple and easy to make as they are pretty and becoming, they 8218 \ W fi seem to combine all advantages. This one shown in group is made with straight t \ if, i MBffjt plaited skirt joined to a belt and tunic that is closed at the back. The shaping of \ \\ —fl I M* m 8213 the tunic and of the elbow sleeves harmonize prettily with the shaping of the yoke. \iM ' Soft, full waists arc the prevailing ones of the season. They can be utilized for |§tea*--T3g* < V crtpe de chine or for the pretty cotton voiles and marquisettes and for all the y JOT materials that are thin and soft enough to be made full. For the trimming, a con- trasting fabric will be needed but contrast can be found in plain color as well as in brocade and the like. This blouse is adapted to the occasions of dress. WE herewith take pleasure in informing you that this spring is about to be an exceedingly bubbling and fluffy and generally inconsequent and bewitching spring. "As the twig is bent" you know, and we have been doing some very pertinent investigating these few weeks past as to just in which direc tion and how far the twigs of Fashion are to be bent. Well, bent they most assuredly are. A straight line may be the shortest dis tance between two points but mathe matics has little in common with fash ions this season. The straight line iiinply is not visible. Every single line is "bent," in other words, curved. NOTES FOR THE HOME NEEDLE WOMEN C<JO p«il»n for Cmbroldwint a Dollar 7Q»7 Deslgm of Water Lilies lor Em- CO*} an Embroidered Can. O0£» T«i uid Ow-Half Imkw In DJ»- »s®/ broidering a Cuihion Top ur Scbrf tar-Cloth, in Sweat Pea Matil, meter. Ends. Twenty-Two Inches In Diameter. rE scalloped edge Is to be padded and buttonholed The lines representing the table and tmoke and the outline of the teapot, and cups and saucers are to be done in outline stitch. The flowers on the cups and teapot can be done in out line stitch or in long and short stitch or can be worked solidly in Keii ilftfton style. Pad the scallop* by darning back ward and forward several times, or working chain stitch between the lines and then buttonhole closely over the foundation. To outline the steins take short stitches, keeping the needle tornnnJ the right and work upward Take the shoulder line—sloping of! for the most part into the kimono sleeve. The waist line curves up in front. The hip line flares out either in the tunic or in the ripple ot the drapery of the skirt proper and coat lines courteously curve out of the way to be accommodating. Even the skirt bottoms do not han« evenly but con form to the vagaries of the skirt drapery. So of course it naturally follows that the materials we are to use will be "curvable" ones There are a variety of new crinkly silks and crSpes that almost of thenibelved fall into the proper folds. PE entire design can be worked in long and short stitch with the stems outlined, or in solid embroidery, or in a combination of rolid embroidery with long and shott stitch, or outline stitch can be used for the entire design or in combination with long and short stitch. To outline, take short stitches keeping the needle toward the right and work upward. For solid embroid ery pad by darning backward and forward and cover closely with over and over stitch working in the op posite direction of the padding. Poplin is essentially smart and every woman will be glad to hear that taffeta is to have extended vogue. It will be used for suits as well as for gowns and, in its latest development it is a pliable fabric, and possessed of a sheen that is a real delight. For the useful cos tume of hardier service, mohair is shown in excellent colors and in that improved weave that seems to belong to all up-to-date fabrics. Gabardine is to extend its favor through the spring and, in its lighter weight, it is effective and durable. In weave, it gives the suggestion of the material we have always known as covert cloth but i» is much finer and more pliable and deserves to be ranked as new. THE scalloped edges are first to be padded and then button holed; the leaves and flowers ore to be worked in solid Kensington stitch with the stems outlined and the dots made solidly or the flowers and leaves may be worked in the Ion? and short stitch, or the design all carried out in simple outline stitch. Pad the scallops by darning bark ward and forward ,-everal time*- and then buttonhole closrly over this foundation, or work chain stitch be tween the lines. When making the solid Kensington stitch always a petal or leaf at the top and work toward the base; take one, two. three *hort stitches and then a long stitch. IN AND OUT THE NEW YORK SHOPS EXTREMELY wide girdles are to be much worn throughout the Spring. Smart ones arc shown made of black moire silk laid in folds about the waist and finished top and bottom with plaited frills. Blouses of colored voile and colored lawn are being shown for wear with white suits and white skirts. Pretty ones are made of yellow voile with collar and cuffs of white batiste. Almost every smart neck garnitur? shows some touch of black and the leading shops are exploiting novel black ribbon ties finished with tassels and ornaments of beads. For the penetrating cold davs th%t come with the melting snows are offered very pretty sleeveless iackets of white knitted wool over color and of color over white. The ruch of tulle is always welcome for between seasons wear. Charming ones are shown of the material in creamy white with black velvet ties and a big black velvet bow at the center back. Fancy Japanese materials are being much used for trimmings. One of tha handsomest is pongee printed in de signs similar to those found in tho Paisley shawls. Women who trave' will be glad to know of kimonos made of real fapanese silks prettily embroidered and packed awav in envelope cases of the same. The garment and case together mean scarcely appreciable weight and the kimonos are made in the Americanized style. It is the day of the nerk'ac*: there, fore, new ones from the Orient show ing imitation cat's eyes that are won derfully successful and which »ell for a moderate price will be of interest. Every woman finds it necessary to carry a powder puff in her wrist bag. New and dainty ones are made from glove handkerchiefs. The little puff is attached right at the center and beading is sewed in a circle, then threaded with ribbon and drawn up to form a little bag. In some instances, the corners of the handkerchief are allowed to fall loose: in others again, they are turned over and embroidered. This is a season that demands such l-?.rmony in costumes as to 'require special accessories for every toilet. New ornamental airpins are set with stones in various col rs to match tha fashionable gowns. PLAIN AND FIGURED ARE COMBINED THE SMARTEST THE figured materials of the season are wonderfully beautiful in color and this plain fabrics show really marvelous texture so that the combination cos tumes are unusually beautiful. These illustrate interesting features and widely different and equally smart belted effects. The peplum that flares over the hips and the skirt that is looped up directly at the front are eminently new and eminently smart. This costume shows both features and, incidentally, is a suggestion for the use of contrasting materials. In this case, plain and figured foulard are combined, but crt'pe can be used in tin tame way, or any two fabrics that harmonize one with the other. THE second costume elves something of the Russian eTect but indutes also the new raglan sleeves which are essentially smart this seaon, ani also one ot the new skirts that is drapeJ at the back. In the picture, the blouss If made from a fancy material while t ie skirt is plain and such combinations are to be much used; but it is always possible to make variations from a single design and an entire Kown of on? material such as silk an I wool poplin would be equally fashionable. The skirt is made with a yoke that dispenses with bulk around the waist, and is finished separately. Patterns IU cents eaefo. A new hat pin is always a subject of interest. lust now we are seeing pretty ones with slender heads of carved deer horn, the ends set with brilliant stones. * Simply dainty organdie is a chosen material for some of the hsw acces sories!. It is shown in the latest puimpes an ' in the newest chemisettes with flaring collars. As a rule, it is lined with itself and, in most instances, the edges are plain although picot edges are seen. Embroidery makes a feature of new fashions. Extremely handsome sashes are shown of wide ribbon with a sin :1a 6pray of flowers embroidered on each end. The tunic so completely transforms the gown that it is a practical as well as fashionable feature. Ready made ones are offered in black silk that can be worn over bluck or colored gowns. Bead necklaces and bead chains are very nearly übiquitous. Extremely handsome ones of imitation clouded amber are offered, both color and ma terial so closely resembling the genuine as to require an expert to detect thu difference. The short, narrow skirts make shoes an important feature of the toilette. For the spring are offered Colonial slippers with the quarters of brocaded cloth. Silk and ribbon La Vallieres are tha latest development of that favorito ornament. They are made in various colors finished with bead pendants and often with bead slides. In some in stances. they are made of the silk cut bias to form a double fold in some instances an inch wide, in others not more than a quarte . Taffeta blouses are being much worn with spring suits. Charming ones are made in the simple Japanese style finished only with Pierrette frills of lace or double net. Jet is fast becoming a craze. New hats are shown entirely of that ma terial, the only trimming a Mercury's wing at each side. Round collar and cuff sets always are welcome. Charming new ones ara made of crisp, sheer organdie embroid ered by hand and edged with Valen ciennes lace.
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