THE PITTSBURG- DISPATCH, SUNDAY. SEPTEMBER 18. 1892. T3 C no Ysjyw-w ro MMM tSSLt-mt ulKZm W ZTfi MfOf land the "'jiiHur v. MS' A DAY WITH WORTH. How the Great Fashion aiaster Cater to the American Trade-Tourists Go to Him In riocks Refuses to Let Garments That Match in Colors Go From Bis Shop How He Cuts His Materials. rCOBBESrOVDENCE OF THE DISrATCH. J PARIS, Sept. 7. That interview with M. "Worth came of and I suppose if I know anything at this time it is Paris fashions; for I have heard them, seen them, felt them, smelled them and with all my senses absorbed them, for fashions are in the air "Up in the air," Worth says.and so hieh up, even he cannot tell to a certainty just what they will be when they settle down to the earth. Notwithstanding this assertion from the head of the house his very "stunning" corps of saleswomen are showing styles, which they tell you M. Worth himself de signed for the coming season and which it may astonish you to bear are among other things verv much trimmed skirts. A rival establishment shows very wide bell, shaped skirts without a particle of trim ming. They were not loag, scarcely demi trains, while M. Worth's skirts are all long, longer than any we have yet worn. The length of the coming skirt was the one point upon which M. Worth was very decided and to the inquiry: "Will they be room so long upon the street?" the answer came promptly enough: "Certainly, Madam, for do you not yourself know a long dress is more easily managed than a short one? Tashion has not yet decreed that you wear high topped boots and until she does you must wear your skirts below your ankles. Well, then, do you not have to lift that skirt out of the dust or water just the same?" In reply I made one of those confessions which high authority tells us are good for gnea TIIE DICTATOR OF THKJTOELD'S FASHIONS. the sonl and owned up that my experience with skirts had taught me his idea was the correct one, but before giving the long skirt a fair test, I had used reams of paper in writing it down. A Ten Picture of the Master. Monsieur Worth is a most pictureque figure in his queer little cap, which is a passamentcrie over silk, and his toga worn" a la Roman over his great shoulders. He is a man of large proportions, I scarcelv know another man so large as he looked to me in his queer costume. His face is iairlv massive and full of good humor when he is making himself asreeable, but one which it requires no stretch of imagination to see could be most stern and f rbidding. Upon the authority of Madam Hoffman, one of the most trusted of his 800 employes and to whom I am indebted for mv inter view, X was very highly favored by Mon sieur in being given, not only so much of his time, but a fine steel engraving of his important-self as welL However, I was not the least flattered, and thought I could see farther through the millstone, which in this instance had a large hole in it made bv American patronaee, than Madam Hoff man could or wanted to. Worth's establishment upon each oc casion of my Federal visits there was as full of Americans as the deck of a transatlantic steamer. This is the trade caterel to at this reason when all monied French people are "out of town," and I doubt very much if when home they spend money as lavishlv as Americans do, or it they are asked the same extravagant prices. This much it seemed to me Monsieur "Worth understood perfectly, since he was keeping a vigilant eye ovef all by taking a commanding position where he could see several rooms at once and direct the numer ous pretty girls, who had their perfect figures encased in the bewitching creations, that were calculated to tempt the dress loving women, and women loving men, who were present to purchase or to order. , A Husband Is Dooile Abroad. Speaking of the men, I would recommend to a woman dependent upon such means lor what she wears to bring her particular "him" along when she comes abroad, tor you have no idea how much more patient and generous husbands arebere than at home. 1 have stayed in Worth's salle d'attentc. or show room, uniil I felt that I was begin ninc to grow gray, trying to see the limit of certain fidgety men's patience, and I al ways came awav and left them there; and I have an idea some of them are there yet. Kill waiting for their wives to makeup their minds whether they can be as happy, once thev are home, in a 300 gown as thev could be in the ?500. One or 'the other of thee prices the gown is pretty sure to be. Out of coni'.liment to mv profession I was oflere 1 a S250 gown lor $100 less monev, but unless contemplating the stage, I would have had no occasion for the highly colored robe, which I was assured was "indeed verv plain." Plain lor France, maybe, but per fectly "giddy" for America. The high colors and the unnsual combina tion colors seemed to be the bone of con tention between the American customers Lisa saleswomen. One New Xork woman, who had Sir. Moneybags along with her readv to settle auy bills 01 her contract ing, .had, after seeing several dozens of manv colored robes, decided upon a fine green cloth, with which she wanted some kind of a small wrap, and I wish you could have seen what they wanted to sell her t It was nothing less than a' magenta red, triple cape; this with the assurance that the combination was exquisite. The lady ex plained that she could not think of wearing a colored cape on the street, and particular ly wanted the color of her gown. One of the Great Man's Secrets. The saleswoman was then obliged to tell her she could not get suited there, that the Bon Marche, and other "shops" were fur nishing such styles and M, Worth had given strict orders that no matched gar ments went out from his establishment. That is the point Worth makes in all his styles, the point for which he sweats his brow and the point that has made and sustains his reputation and that commands the fabulous prices. He designs every dress (called by him, robe) and every wrap that is sent 'out from his establishment, and claims to furnish materials for the same that no other hrm can buy. He expressed polite regret that I could not be here a couple of weeks later when the vounger Worth, Monsieur Laston, shall hae re turned from Lyons and Bobaix, where he is at present buying new and taking materials, upon which the permanent styles will much depend. M. Worth said to me: "It is not so much we who create the lashion as it is the man ufacturers. They make the material, and of what they make we choose those which wp think will harmonize with the tastes of our clients, and after we have chosen them the weaver must make these Datterns onlv for .... uu, su jm dec, uiauaui, lb h something exclusive we offer you." us; so you see, madam, it is alwavs a repnea mat judging from his American patronage our women must recognize the delusiveness of his designs if not of the manufacturers, whereupon he replied with an attempt at humor: "Oh, but the Amer icans are good at designing, too; quite as good; indeed, they are getting too clever, and I think it must be stopped. " Not a Weil-Dressed Crowd. ' I do not know if M. Worth has been in America or how he judged, for certainly the crowd of Americans in his salle d'at tante would not lead up to his ODinion, since it looked as it a decent gown could not be obtained for love or money outside of Paris. If so, why this rush? There is not much nse in saving "what's in a name." There is evervthing in It. While there were some exquisite creations shown, and purchased by Americans under my eyes at M. Worth's, vet there were oth ers that wsre simply outlandish both in de sign and price. I know dressmakers in New York with only local reputation, who could gite a much better fit and make more taste ful creations for one-third the money, but, not having the name, the cabalistic name of Worth, they would not be given a trial. In one regard Worth's robes do not differ from those ot rival establishments, and that is in the sleeves; they are most frequently of materials differing from that ot the waist and are commonly of velvet. Waists ore nearly always round, the skirt of the basque worn under the dress skirt, the waist being finished by a wide belt of vel vet or silk, which is laid in folds and brought together with one large rosette or two small ones, fastened on one side. Where the waist is not round, then Princess is the cut, but with slashed skirt snowing a georgous petticoat underneath. Many of Worth's best designs show panels, let in of velvet or rich brocade. He Dotes on High Colors. Worth's wraps were all colored unless for a woman 102 years old, I should judge, since I saw one woman ot about 60, who was trying to buy a suitable wrap, shown one gav thing after the other until she grew color blind. Turning to me she said. "Please tell me the color of that thing, for j I feel half demented and can't tell if it is ' blue or green. The truth is the "thing" was in both colors a green velvet wraD half length. tight back and loose front with a blue el vet cape split up the back, nnd trimmed with wide black lace. The cape formed the high sleeves. The neck was closed with a fancy clasp. The blue and green were of the shades seen in a peacock's feath ers and were naturally pretty together. But think of an American woman of 60 in itl And yet I assure you one of our country women of that aee is blooming compared to a French woman of the same age, while voung French women are showily pretty though mostly "made up," as we say; a't middle age thev are too stout and have grown too much beard; and soon after that thev shrivel and become wrinkled as an ac cordion. Yet the wrinkled French woman would don the blue and green wrap and drive on the Bois de Boulogne and no one would call it scandalous. It Is a Season of Furs. Wraps are mostly sleeveless and of cape style. This is necessitated bv dress sleeves be'ing so large, and so often o'f- velvet, over which we ail know the difficulty of drawing top sleeves and the ruin thereot. Monsieur Worth agrees with Doucet, Redfern and others that this will be another fur season, and many of his handsomest gowns and ' wraps are fur trimmed. One dress I r- j member well had a fur band that reached Alllft almost to the knees of the model girl who w" wering it for our inspection; but it really looked too heavy. Possibly the very warm weather had something to do with i.uio impression. "Do you think American women have w I " their costuming?" I asked TJI?.r re!S M wel1 as anT women in the world, he renlled. "nnd 'have cmnrl figures, which they are fond of displaying . .... ucit auvantage, ana mat is rignt. t U c-"rel,e a large influence upon our fashions and make and unmake to suit them selves, it was owing to your women tnat the panier-basque failed last season; they wanted their gowns to lie flat to show the figure, andheyhadtl.eirway." Americans Have Minds of Their Own. I believe this to be sincerely true of our women, notwithstanding we 'sometimes, in smtelul moments, accuse each other of running after strange fashions. But we do know the panier basque did not "take" any better than a poor vaccinate; that the sacque coat was called all sorts of hard names and then banished from the country, and that the French idea of combining ha'lf a dozen materials in so many contrasting wiiiiiuu never louna iavor. One afternoon in M. Worth's.would con vince the doubting that, whether tasteful or not, Americans are not apes, but have the courage of their convictions. AH of Worth's saleswomen, forewomen and foremen speak English as well as they speak French, ana the great designer him self is an Englishman, and not French, as many suppose. The comfort it was to find our own language "as she is spoke" at this establishment, of all others, you cannot know until you come to Pans as we came. Makt Temple Batabd. WOMEN IN A FLUTTER. Busy Time of Preparation for the Encamp ment of the G. A. R. Double Ration of luncheons Mother Bickerdyke, Who Always Insisted on Pickles, to Be Present-Honors to the Nurses of the War. CORREKPOVDEVCE Or THE DISPATOW.l "Washington, September 17. Such a fluttering state of excitement as the women of this city are inl And well they may be, for it is no small matter to entertain 150,000 ladies, and at least that number is expected here during the Na tional G. A R. Encampment, to say nothing of the husbands and other male relations that will be on hand. For weeks past the leading public women there are alwavs a few in everv citv.uDon whom such responsibilities rest have been busy perfecting arrangements to receive and entertain the expected guSsts. Their efforts have been crowned with success and the programme of entertainment is so varied in its attractions that it will be a stray bit of femininity, indeed, that fails to have a real, roaring, good time. Such a round of drives, sails, excursions,meetings,luncheons and receptions as are booked would shake even a pronounced pessimist out of his pessimism, for a time at least ' Chirmlng Womn In the T..irt. And what else could one expect with such leaders as Mrs. John A Logan, Miss Clara Barton, and many others equally charming though less prominent, interesting them selves actively in the work, assisted by an advisory committee composed of the ladies of the Executive Mansion and the Cabinet! Truly the guests are to be congratulated upon their prospective enjoyment. Miss Barton, she ot lied Cross fame everyone knows of her and of her great works is the Chairman of the Citizens' Committee on Woman's Belief Corps, Ladies of the G. A. R., and other organi zations of patriotic women of America. Sbe was appointed by the Citizens' Execu tive Committee natural that she should be selected lor that position, one would think, but her power and position have been ques tioned to some extent by Mrs. Ida V. Hen dricks, President ot the Potomac Woman's Belief Corns, and also by Mrs. Sue Pike Saunders, National President of the W. R. Q The situation is but the culmination of trouble long brewing, but is as follows: The Citizens' Committee authorized Miss Barton to expend a certain sum of money in providing halls, music, luncheons, flowers and decoration for all the organizations ex pected, including the W. R. C. A Clash or Female lutliorllr. Mrs. Hendricks claimed the privilege of arranging lor the delegates of the W. It. C. by reason of her position as President otthe local department. The National President, Mrs. Saunders, invested Mrs. Hendricks with the necessary authority, and instructed her to secure a hall, make arrangements tor serving lunch and do everything else need ful for the comfort and happiness of the 650 delegates expected. Strangely enough Mrs. Mrs. John Dalz'U. Saunders then accepted, for the delegates the courtesies proffered by Miss Barton and her committee. Double preparations were in order for the entertainment of the W. e. a The fact became known, and a spirited three-cornered correspondence followed, in dignation meetings were numerous on both sides, the trouble increased and peace could not be restored. Mrs. Saunders dictated to the Citizens' Committee, sent orders fo Mrs. Hendricks, and, it is said, made a de mand upon the gentlemen of the Executive Committee for funds tor Mrs. Hendricks. The gentlemen refused to comply; the tempest in the teapot increased in its furv, and as a result there is what might be termed a tremendous misunderstanding. Will Hiv Two Lunches a Diy. The complications that may arise, and really seem inevitable, have an amusing as well as a serious phase. Miss Barton is in dorsed by the Citizens' Committee and the Ladies' Sub-committee and is upheld by the newspapers; Mrs. Hendricks has back of her the National President of the W. R. O. and her own Potomac department. Miss Barton, calmlv and serenelv, remarks that the Ladies' Citizens' Committee has secured a church, decorated it handsomely, and will serve luncheon each day during the conven tion for the 650 W. It C. delegates. Mrs. Hendricks has secured a building the Cpchrane which is being fitted up very nicely, and the came W. B, G. delegate! will be served with luncheon eaoh day of the convention. The question arises how can 6S0 women dispose of 1,300 lunches .daily? Among the guests expected none are creating more advance interest than the O. A. B. nurses, who will be the recipients of many little attentions from the grateful comrades and admiring friends. Miss Bar ton, very appropriately, will take them under her wing and will make them special objeots of solicitude. It is believed that their presence will do much toward gaining for them their desired pensions. They intend to form an organization and thus be able to push their claim more forciably. A Woman Fmnous for Her Plcitlvs. Mother Bickerdyke.who comes from Kan sas and Is very .aged, will doubtless be one of the most conspicuous of the nurses. She made her name synonymous with pickles, if memory errs not, and insisted upon her soldier boys having onions whenever they expressed a desire for them. Official rank had no terror to Mother Bickerdyke. Dr. Susan E Ison will also be ot the greatest possible interest. Br. Edson enjoys the double distinction of being a G.A. K. nurse and of having attended President Garfield in the nursing capacity during his fatal ill ness. A special tent has been provided for the accommodation ot these noted women, and they will have a reunion on Thursday after noon, the 22d. In the evening of the same day they will attend as guests of distinction the "At Home" given by Miss Barton at the headquarters of the Bed Cross. They ttill aho appear in a body at the Presi dent's reception and at the great national reception given in the Capitol rotunda Monday evening, the 19th. The national reception, by the way, was a happy inspiration of Mrs. Logan's, who has the enviable faculty of thinking the proper thing at the proper moment. What could be more fittinsr.she reasoned, than that the rotunda of the National Capitol should do duty as a receptional hall for the G.A It aud the women of the patriotic orders. A Illc; Inception IVlthoot Full Dross, No sooner though than done with Mrs. Logan, the national reception immediately assumed the prominent place upon the pro gramme, the ladies of the White House and the Cabinet were invited to assist in receiv ing and the affair is to be" very brilliant Full dress, necessarily will be limited to the Receiving Committee and to the resi dent guests, as the strangers will not at tempt to provide themselves with evening attire, and should they attempt it the rail road companies ill see to it that they do not have their biggage on time. It is a literal impossibility to take care of somnny people all traveling at one time and very much extra baggage, so say the railroad officials , Mrs. Logan will also give a reception In her own beautiful home at Calumet Place, It will be a semi-private affair at which the John A Logan Posts G. A. K. of the United State', the Grand Army of the Republic and the Woman's Corps of Illinois will be the guests ot honor. Such are the prominent social events of the week, the smaller ones wouldfill a book. The different orders of women are all to receive and be received at numerous places and are to be entertained in every possible manner. Rita of Persona! Gossip. 3IR3. Hendricks, President of the Totomao W. It C, is a pratty woman, with blact eyqs and hair bruiued smoothly from the fore head. She is a pood conversationalist and is adored by the Potomac VY. It C. Mns. Jouit Dalzeix, Chairman of the Ac commodation Committee, is a charming person of great tact and the most winsome nvuiners. Her home is considered one of tho most desirable to enter In tho city. Miss Cora Curry, Secietary of the com mittee, is a sprightly little mortal, with keen uray eyes and keener wit. She is a walking cyclopedia of information rojard in" women's oruers and women's ihrhtiin the department but she does not tell ail that she knows. Miss Raetos-, Chairman of the Citizens' sub-Committee, has the confidence aud respect of Washington; is gracious, not in the least forbidding, though possessed of wonderful stiength of character. She dresses in black, relieved by a magnificent red cross, the badie or her order; has kindly brown eyes and whisper it softly weais a glossy brown wig. Miss Helena MoCartht, Chairman ot tho Press Committee, is tho bright, ne.vsy, little woman one would expect to And socially aud Journalistically representative, with black ejes and black hair. Tp nse her own woi ds: "1 am a native oi Washington, D. C. My lather was one of the oldest inhabitants, though born a County Coik, Ireland, man. On the same principle. I am Irish, too." Mrs. Joirs A Looan, Chairman of the Re ception Committee, is tho m&st popular woman in Washington, D. C, and the busi est She is beantiful.queenly in her bearing and has n peifect crown of lovely white hair. Her home Is perfect in appointment and abounds in souvenirs and mementoes of tne G. A. It, while the kindly eyes of the mourned liorj look down from numerous plctuieson the walk Mis Logan weais an open Diotuie or her dead husband at her throat and dresses in black, excepting for social duties. Kathleen Hcssey-Watson. AGIHDLE OF SHAKES. Novel Trophy From a Young Man to Hl Quaker City Sweetheart Philadelphia Press. While summering at a hotel on the Blue Mountains, near Reading, a gallant youth who resides on South Broad street, this city, bethought him of a clever plan to prove to his fiancee his undying love. In the six weeks on the mountain he killed with his own hand 19 huge rattle snakes. Ths rattles, numbering 213, were carefully plucked from the tails of the venomous reptiles and all the snakes were bravely skinned. The skins were taken to a furrier in Reading and a section of each was cut out and pieced into a brilliant girdle. The edges ot the girdle, top and bottom, were trimmed with the rattles after the fashion of jet beads. This astonishing trophy was then presented by the gallant youth to his sweetheart downtown. Cokpetent. trustworthy and experienced women furnished by the hoar to take charge of packing, cleaning and rearranging of household effects. ' W. A HoEVXLEB,' Storage, '-ggjT ii V Q W Mrs. Cora C. Curry. Mrs. ITclena McCarthy. THIEVES IT DIMERS. Detective! flow Employed in Kew York to Watch Guests. KLEPTOMANIACS OP SOCIETY. Anonymous Letters Deserve ifore Atten tion Than They Keceive. PROFESSIONALS FOLLOW WEDDINGS reORRISPONDKNCZ OT THE DtSPATCn.l NewXokk, Sept 17. Everybody has heard of the "Quatorzieme" the profes sional "fourteenth person" at dinners. There were men in Paris, not so very many years ago, who made it their business to serve at short notice as guests at banquets where the accident of 13 at table occurred, thus satisfying the superstitious by adding one to the number. The individual thus called in was introduced as a friend invited to the repast, and there nas nothing about his appearance or demeanor which could arouse suspicion that he was not present on the same footing with the others. It seems surprising to find such a custom, In a modified form, newly introduced in New York society. The fashionable hostess nowadays in giving a dinner commonly en gages a detective of gentlemanlike aspect and address to take the part ot a guest at her table. He is invited not for any supersti tious reason, but to protect the tableware and other household property from being stolen by the diners. Such articles as solid gold spoons are extremely apt to be pock eted, and the fact has long been notorious that no small and costly piece of bric-a-brao is safe in the most exclusive drawing room. "Kleptomania" is the term charitably ap plied to a thieving habit thich is not so very rare among persons of good social sta tion. A Neat Way of Stopping a Thief. "The other day at Newport," said Phil Henley, chief of a leading detective agency in this city, "one of my men was employed to look out for a large reception. He saw a handsomely dressed woman de liberately take and secrete the top oi a beautiful vase. The object could have been of no use to her, but the loss of it would have spoiled an ornament worth 500. He stepped up to her and said pleasantly: 'Madame, I presume that vou want to have a duplicate of that made?' 'Oh, yesl' she replied, in some confusion. 'Well,' he re marked, 'I guess that you had better put it back, and you can get a duplicate by send ing your artist here. Ot course, she gave it up at once. Nothing more was said, lave that her name was reported to the hostess, who dropped it from her list "That is the way we always manage. Ex posure does no good in such cases. The same method is practiced at a diuner where the detective keeps a quiet watch upon them, only eating and drinking enough to keep up appearances. One la 'y of my ac quaintance has all her most valuable bric-a-brac fastened securely, so that the articles cannot be removed. She has given up hav ing silver-backed brushes and other such precious toilet appurtenances in the dress ing rooms at her parties, because they were stolen so frequently. Professional Thieves at Weddings. "But it is at weddings chieflv that the soci ety kleptomaniacs get in their work. At large affairs of the kind we are sometimes called upon to furnish as many as three men one to walk about in the room where the presents are exposed, another to stand by the diamonds, and a third to remain out side on the sidewalk for the purpose 'of keeping professional thieves from entering the house. It is a fact that thieves in the regular line of business carefullv watch the announcements of swell weddings with a view to robbery. "My observation has shown that klepto mania is actually a disease. It is much more common among women than with men. Furthermore, it is in a sense inher ited, and the investigation of many cases has tended to show that longings on the part ot a mother nill thus effect her unborn child. So thoroughly am I convinced that victims of it are not responsible that I al ways try to protect them from exposure. At the same time they come under the hesd of 'opportunity thieves" they only yield to the temptation when good chances offer and they think thev are secure from detection. Not long ago I caught a Oman of the highest social positiou in the act of secreting a diamond brooch at a jeweler's. I followed her carriage home, asked to see her privately and obtained from her a S600 check, which was the price of the article stolen. Her husband never heard of the t.usaction. A Fact as to Anonymous Letters. "Most decent people declare that anony mous letters are unworthy of attention; very commonly they destroy them and pay no regard to them, knowing that they ar'o most likely to be inspired by motives of cowardly malice. Nevertheless my experi ence has shown that 00 per cent ol all such missives contain statements which are true in the main. Persons who get them often employ detectives to ferret out the writers. The first step in this kind of work is to get as complete as possible a list of the friends and known enemies of the individual ad dressed. Next the guessing facultv must be ii ut in plav to discover who could have a motive for writing the communications. "Anonymous letters may be divided roughlv into several classes namely, ma liciously annoying, threatening, slandering others, apnrising secretly of danger, advis ing mervudnls that they are being robbed and by whom and warning husbands on wives. R. B. FADS FOR THE FAIR. When a Maid Is an Economy The Boa for Fail Wear The Abominable Dclsarto Swing How Thin Women Can Get Fat Something New in Autographs. I WRITTEN roil TUB DISPATCH. I It is an accepted fact among women founded upon good reason that when one's bolongings are valuable and costly, the services ot a maid are not a luxury, but a necessity, and really an economy. Delicate fabrics need great care in handling and pre serving, and fine boots, shoes, gloves aud handkerchiefs are not to be tossed abiut carelessly and still preserve their freshness. But without a maid and with a comparative ly simple wardrobe, a need ot care even will be found a great protection. In put ting away summer wash dresses they should be rough dried, then folded neatly and packed in a box or trunk by themselves. It is an excellent idea to go over each one and take the few mending stitches that are sure to be needed. Challies, crepons and .summer "silks should be carefully shaken and brushed, spots ' sponged, bows of ribbon taken oft and unmadr.if pos sible, or the dust all carelully wiped off with a bit of silk dipped in weak ammonia water, and packed away in separate boxes. The same rule applies where laces trim the dresses. If these are washable they should be washed,- otherwise shaken and wound around a bottle or wooden roll. It is a good plan to let the dresses hang wrong rA j A Pretty Sail Bench. side out in the'air all of a sunny morning if yon live in a hotel, to hang in a hot room the same length of time is a good substi tute. Rumpled ruches, shields and bent bones should be taken from waists, and a killed maid says the waist linings should be brushed down, every seam, with cologne and water. Feathers and flowers should be taken from the hats and bonnets, wrapped carefully and separately in tissue paper and consigned to boxes where they will not be crushed. The flowers should have each leaf pulled out, nnd if breathed on before using again, will be found as fresh as ever. Parasols ought to be rolled, bat have a loose slip cover put on after they are care fully wined, or, if gauze, flirted free of dust with a silk handkerchief, and then stood in some safe place, and occasionally, opened to alter the folds. An odd fashion prevailed largely last summer and which the fresh autumn days augment Is the use ot the mink boa as a demi-saison wrap. The little coil of fur about the neck seems absurd as a protector, but almost every other woman trusts to it The Newspaper PoclceL as she leaves a heated ball room or steps out in a cambrio gown on a sharp September morning. The boas are short, with the tiny head at one end and the single fluffy tail at the other, and ii you have not yet unearthed the one you had ten years ago, get it out without delay and join the fashionable pro cession. Ermine boas have also been seen, and the handsome Canton crepe shawls, heavy with rich embroidery and long silk fringes, both heretofore relegated to silver paper and moth-proof chests, as precious but very unusuable possessions. Almost as pronounced as the kangaroo walk, which accompanied the Grecian bend, is the so-called "Delsarte swing." From the easy movement which the physical culturists advocate, the gait has developed into an ungainly roll that were it not sanc tioned by fashion would be laughed at To see a couple of young women under full headway, oscillating like a sailor ashore, may be form but it is not a pretty spectacle. "The papers teem with advice to stout women on how to rid themselves of super fluous flesh," said a woman who is not stout, the other day, "but I seldom find a paragraph on the opposite side of the ques tion. I should be very glad to take on a few pounds of avoirdupois and in a recent visit to my physician, I asked him how I could accomplish it 'To begin with,' he said, "don't worry, and between times, don't worry. I never saw a thin woman yet,' he went on, 'who was not a nervous one and worry is a large part of nerves Stout women are often nervous as well, but thin women are sure to be so. When you have become thoroughly imbued with the de sirability of calmness in all emergencies some other aids to flesh are plenty of sleep, 8 hours out ot every 24 at feast and more if you can get it, moderaU regular exercise, and fattening foods such as soups, butter, cream, farinaceous foods, fat, juicy meats and plenty of olive oil Eat often rather than much at a time, take warm baths at night and 'don't worry.' " Autograph recipe books are trifles shown at the Women's Exchanges. Two covers of Bristol board are tinted and painted with a bunch of flowers'or some conventional de sign of pots and pans, and hold a dozen or more plain leaves between them. The words Autograph Recipes are done in grace ful text on the first page, with some appro priate verse on food or the art ot dining. A pencil is attached bv a ribbon, though the recipes are preferably written in ink. Provided with such a book the chatelaine coaxes a pet recipe from a score of friends whose culinary skill is accepted and se cures as well an autograph from each. Pajamas for ladies are shown this autnmn in silk, wool and linen. Mabgaeet H. Welch. NATURAL FRUIT FLAVORS. Vanilla lemon Orange Almond Rose etc. Of perfect purity. Of great strength. Economy In their uso Flavor as delicately &nd dellciously as the fresh fruit For sale by Geo. K. Stevenson & Co., undal first-class yiucors. al '8 I loir Ik ! We are at the corner of WOOD ST. AND SIXTH AVE. The Duquesne, Central, Trans verse and Pleasant Valley cars stop at our door. Have on hand everything known to the Wall Paper trade. MTrMlB&Co, 541 Wood St., Pittsburg, Pa. WILL FURNISH ESTIMATES. eel8-su gT,l ' ,i7" "' 1 if .S yy delicious ftarroriij Extracts Telephone USi. HETT ADTEETISEaiENTS. TIE LAR9EST AND LEADING MILLINERY HOUSE IN WEST. PEMIL ai Thoboughly and powerfully demon strating the fact that we are money-savers for all ot the people, by providing first-class, stylish, serviceable, useful, personal and fanciful commodities W ibsSmm Impossibility! Moitralty! tajalty! There's a great many things that are, and verv manv that appear to be, Impossi bilities in this beautiful world of ours. Now, everybody kuows that it's an easy matter to lead.a cow to the well, but it's a matter or utter impossibility to force her to drink it she doesn't want to. It's equally impossible to guess at the utility of a hog's caudle ap pendage. To be demonstrative requires life, vigor, activity, brain power. Undemon strative people go about their business in a calm, stolid, phlegmatic (some folks mistake it for genteel) sort of a wav they lack the essential capacities. In faot, it's beyond their power, utterly impossible for tbom to be demonstrative! But, the biggest and most im portant impossibility in this ase of demonstrative progress is the fact that it's literally impossible for Darftiger's to sell anything but first-class merchandise and always for less money than anywhere else, proved ten times ten thousand fold, both by popular and ocu lar demonstration. INTERESTING MD PROFITABLE BOTH, FOB yOU, IN THE GHHEIOITIYE CLOE DEPARTMENT. Space and time alike forbid us entering into details regarding following items, suf fice It to observe in passing, that never be fore, even at the end instead of commence ment of season, were such nice, iresh, new, fashionable, seasonable, stylish Jackets oflered at such wonderfully low prices; we've cot 'em; you'll pretty soon have 'em; not manv of tliem; only last a few days; yop'll save from $2 SO to 510 from lowest'to highest; worth looking alter, think you? "A word to the wise," etc.: Elesrant 31-inch fine Black Cheviot Cloth Beefers, with full rolling shawl collar of Black Coney fur, four beautiful fur head loops Now for 5 SO each. Exceedingly handsome 32-inch Chevron Beefers, with fine collar and cuffs beauti lully trimmed with Gray Kremmer fur, and half satin lined.... Now lor 812 each. Stylish, yes, supremely grand, those mag nificent Black Worsted Beefers, trimmed ' with Russian bear fur or martin, and full silk lined, in a word, this garment can't 2Jb - Vl be bought anywhere .Now for 515. Fall weight Beefers In black, blue or tan, Now for f 2 99, f 3 49, U 49 and H 93 each. OUR EXCEEDINGLY POPULAR iD HIGHLY SUCCESSFUL LADIES' SUIT DEPARTMENT Is still meeting with its full and just reward. Of course we're highly gratified at the manifold manifestations of appreciation of our efforts In this direction. But then it's not to be wondered at after all. Look around in every establishment in either city, then come to us, and if we can't save you from $2 to 5 on your garment we'll neither ask, nor expect your patronage. 00R EXTENSIVE, HIGH-TONED, MONEY- SAVING MILLINERY DEPARTMENT Is in daily receipt of all newest shapes and (hades of Hats and Bonnets, also latest and most approved novelties in everything pertaining to the embellishment and adornment of headwear for ladies, misses and children. As ot yore, we reign supreme in this artistls 'department, while our remarkable low prices are, seemjnglV, simply unattemptable. Following are a few of the latest arrivals in hats: " Newport, Star, Knox, Tourist, Monitor, Cornell, "Windermere, St. Jeau, Bennett, Ultra, Fassadena. For misses and children, La Belle, Gertie, La NJIode, Little Faust, Enchantress, Nomad, Everdell, Little Bess, Bramble. Fancy Feathers in Bow Knot, Bat Effect, Aigrettes and "Wings. --' New Bibbons and Velvets, Hat Buckles and Ornaments, all the new designs. Mourning Hats, Bonnets and Veils. CURTAINS, BLANKETS, LINENS, TRADE CREATORS FOR OS, MONEY-SAVERS FOB YOU. We've got several hundred odd Lace Curtains, 1, 2, 3 and 4 pairs of a kind; nothing wrong with them, only odd pairs, but they'll do some lively juhiping next few days; less'n half price Now from 75c to5 a pair. Odd lots single Curtains'll have to sail in same boat, no regard to cost or intrinsic value . Now from SOc to $1 each. We'll send all our odd Portieres to keep last lots company; good chance for practical economists Now for ?1 23 to J3 60 each. Large, soft, Pure-Wool Country Blankets, either white or scarlet, at same price, mind, and we'll save you from ?1 to 52 50 on every pair vou buv. Now for $2 99, ?3 99,54 99 and $5 99 a pair. 50 pieces of nice, Cream Damask Table Linens, wide, heavy and prettv, 33c, 50o and 7So linens Now for 25c, 39c and 49c a yard. Excellent 75c, 85c, 95c, $1 and 51 50 Bleached Damask Table Linens, lovely designs. .... Now for 49c, 59c, 69c, 74c and 99c a yard. A most beautifully fine lot of 51 75 Silk Dotted Flannel, for infants' sacques and shawls, '.Now for 51 39 a yard. MERE PASSING, STILL INTERESTING AND PHOFITASLE DRESS TRIMMING TALK. Every day now, by freight and exnress, we're receiving from all over the world the newest designs, styles and fashions of Dress Trimmings, Buttons, Buckles, eta, eta We care not where vou go, there isn't a handsomer or better variety of Dress Trimmings to be seen anywhere, and then the prices, ah, there's the rub. We just revel in the knowl edge of both buying and selling lower than elsewhere. An immense and most elegant range of New Black and Fancy Trimmings in Silk, Beads, Applique, Moss, etc., etc., all the different colors aud pretty shades,too; all tuenevrshapeb-in both Steel aud Gilt Backics; Bead Bodices, all color), Ribbon Fringes aud Girdles to match each other, also to match new shades ol' Dress Goods; Pearl Edges. Jet Edges, Bull Jet Edges, Colored Bead Edges, Silk Edges. BOUSING BASEMENT BENEFITS THIS WEEK TD ALL PARTICIPATORS. A very nice lot of 25c Cake Salvers Now for 13c each. Fancy Jelly Dishes that'll cost a dime any where Now for 4c each. Then there's a lot of new Celery Trays Now for lUc each. And there's a lot of 15c Oil and Vinegar Cruets Now lor 10c each. Nicely engraved, polished bottom Sc Water Tumblers Now for 4c each. MASON'S 1-QTXART JABS NOW FOB 54c ADOZEN. E COTE TfllNGS FOR THE ONES AT Infants fine White Cashmere, Bich Surah and China Silk stylish Bedford Cord and handsome Crepe de Chene Hoods, piaiu, corded and handsomely embroidered Now from 49c omup to 52 99. Children's pretty Colored Bedford Cord, rich Silk, handsome Velvet and elegant Plush Hoods, plain, fur-trimmed and em broidered. Now from 49e away up to 54 99 each. Infants' Chamois and Kid Moccasins. Now for 24c, 49c, 74c and 99a ALWAYS THE cheapest; M at much lower prieet than elsewhere, also amply and ably demonstrated by the appreciation of thou sands of thrifty, sensi ble, economical cash buyers. W lor less than 530.... 20c Patent Crank Flour Sifters. Now for 10c each. 10c Wire and Tin Strainers, wood handles, ....Now for Cc each. 15c Wire Soup Strainers Now lor fio each. 5c Fancy Cake Cutters. Now for 2c eaoh. COc best steel Kitchen Saws Now for 29c each. 52 Brass Hall Lamps) with ruby globes... .Nowfor5124eaoh. 1EE ATTAINABLE BY ALL PRICES. Infants pretty little Knitted Bootees . . .Now for 9c, 12c, 15c, 24c and 49c a pain Infants' Zephyr Sacques .-..,. No w for 24c, 49c, 74c and 99o eaoh. Infants' richly emhroid'd Flannel Sacques, Now lor 49c, 74c, 99c and 51 49 each. Inlants' handsomely embroidered fine Cash mere Sacques Now lor 74c, 99c, 51 49 and f 1 99 eaeh. Infants' All-Wool Ribbed Vests .".... No w for 24c, 39c, 44o and 49o each. SIXTH ST. AND PENN AVE. selMt A 'If mM: &-&' . 5i
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers