THE DISPATCH,. SUNDAY. FEBRUARY 21 189E 13 vSCIENTIFIC COOKING. Contributions to the Culinary Art ' by the Boston Philanthropist, Edward Atkinson. TTH1T HE J)ID FOR A TILLAGE. The Economical Appliance of Heat In the " Kitchen One of the First Prob lems to Be Solved. PIOPLJ SLOW TO EEI GOOD THlIfGS. Octave Hand's Kcdpes for TefetsWes and r. Ewinr's rdnts on Bread. Emma fWB.lTTE.7t TOIL TITE PISrATCH.1 A leries of articles dealing with the scien tific phase of cooking has been secured by The Dispatch from Edward Atkinson, of Boston. In these he will give the publio the benefit of his many years of disinter ested study. The first appears to-day. Of this article and its author Helen Watterson writes as follows: 2fo one in this country, no one in this whole -world, probably, has given more years to the study of food from a scientific and economic standpoint than Edward At kinson, of Boston. Mr. Atkinson has sure ly written more helpful lines for house keepers than most housekeepers hare ever read on all household matters put together. And as if that were not enough, some time ago Mr. Atkinson invented a cooker. And as if that were not enough, some time a:o Mr. Atkinson invented a scientific cooker. Of this he says humorously th3t at first it was not a success because he m.ide no at tempt to make money out of it by patent ing it. It appeared that nobody wanted an article that nobody else was trying to make money out of. Failing to get people to buy It for what it cost him, Mr. Atkinson Edward Atkinson. tried patenting it, and it now sells for a fair profit on what it cost to manufacture it, and the "science of victualing," as Mr. Atkin son calls it, gets the benefit, as every cent of profit from his cooker goes into the de velopment of this subject. In the first paper which I have read with much pleasure Mr. Atkinson tells how he a busv man in active business came to study this subject and how the invention of the cooker came about. It is amazing and not altogether amusing to see certain facts down here, as Mr. Atldnon sets them down, scientifically and logically. Two facts are of special importance. Mr. At kinson says, in the first place, that we haven't vet iound out how to get the maxi mum of heat out of the minimum of fuel; second, that we haven't found out how to apply heat to lood in such a way as to pro duce the most nutritious and pleasing chemi cal results. Sow, in view of the fact that the human race has taken its ability to make a fire and cook its food so seriously as to make this ability the mark of difTereniation between the human race and animals, this is some what discouraging. It Is, if all this be true, time we knew it and set about better ways time we all knew what Mr. Atkinson has to tell us, and time we all put it into practice. COOKING IX A PINE BOX. ginning, so as to seal up the juices within, but after that shonld be continued at a much lower degree until the whole joint or cut of meat be thoroughly cooked. It stove makers, would give tbe matter more attention, it is conceivable that an iron stove might be made, in the use of which the. heat could be regulated and adapted to each special purpose. The stove makers are, however, obliged to meet the demand for quick work, which is almost invariably bad work in cooking. Introdncin: Right KIdcI of Methods. In dealing with the problem myself the first step was to find out a way to apply the heat to the food receptacle w ithout any di rect communication between the source of heat and inside of the receptacle, oven, or vessel in which the fodd is placed. That is a very simple matter, if you only know how to do it. The ordinarv stoves overcook or burn, dry up or desicate, and, in the com mon practice, spoil most of the food that is cooked in them. The right kind of a stove stops the evaporation in great measure even of the water in the food. The rieht kind of heat in such a stove renders tough meats tender, saves the flavors, and may be so ap plied as to make the maximum of stupidity necessary to work any injury to the food. There are degrees of stupidity, but the maximum is seldom attained. Tiiere are, however, very great obstruc tions in the wav of introducing the right method of cooking into the domestic kitchen; notably the inertia of woman and the combined inertia and obstinacy of "Biddy." Cnokln: In a fine Box. My first undertaking, was to put some heat into a pine box by way of a column of water, then put the 'food into the box in suitable cooking vessels and leave the heat to do its work. Pine wood is one of the best non-conductors of beat that can be found. I devised a method of heating water with a kerosene oil lamp in a copper chamber corresponding to the water back of the common kitchen range. I put this heat into the pine box by way of some pipes, the box being lined with metal o as to prevent leaking. In this pine box I subjected sev eral kinds of food to the simmering process. I tried everything without failure, even when I dealt with an old gooie warranted to be as tough as anything that could be found. I cooked it in such a tender and nutritious manner that it could not be carved, but had to be minced and served on toast. But then what? I attempted to give away this invention. I published it, nota bly at a meeting of working men and women, where I recommended it to the 14-hour wives of the S-hour men! But the men would not take it; they said that they did not want simmered food, that they would not eat "bone soup." No one else took up the invention, and it is now dead. TVliat One Ijimp Can Do. The next problem was to try dry heat without any column of water, and to adapt it to the conditions of an oven in which many kinds of food could be cooked at the same time. This, too, I have accomplished. I can cook a five-course dinner for ten peo ple'in one food receptacle with only one lamp. The heat that may be derived from the top of the chimneyof a common central duct lamp, which lias a wick one and one half inches in diameter and in which a quart of oil is consumed in eight hours, is suflicient to cook 50 pounds of bread, meat and vegetables in three charges-in the eight hours. Meat, fish, fruit, vegetables, onions and custard pudding can all be cooked in the same oven at the same time. Edward Atkinson. T TABLE, wm BOUDOIR, H INS AN . cookbook (the name of which" wild horses shall not drag from me I such 13 my esprit de corps!) into the fire, because this cookbook commanded her to parboil stuffed onions before stuffing them. Of course, when, after the boiling, she came to try to hollow out a place for stuffing, the onion went all to pieces! Being a good cook she promptly baked the onions and roasted the cookboofc The moral of this tale is if you have to scoop any vegetable, scoop it in the raw (which is Anglo-Saxon for an nature?) what ever the cookbook may say! Neither is it wise to parboil the empty onion after it is scooped, because in that defenseless state it is likely. "not to nut too fine a point on it," as Mr. Snagsby would say, to cave in Stufled Onions. To stnff onions, take any Kind of chopped meat and rice sauce. Mix with this meat the raw onion that has been excavated, season, heat to boiling, and All the shell, strew butteied bre"d crumbs on topjand bake throe quarters of an hour for large onions. .Another stufflns, preferred, ny sonio is to All the shells with bread cruulbs and the raw onion, moistened slightly with cream, and to nour cieam around the onions after thev are baked. In regard to fried onions I have longed often to say a single word. That word is, fry! Fry, not stew, in lard or butter, is the rule of conduct for onions. Fried onions are crisp, sweet, tender, brown and unctu ously savory. One maT feel that regard for the feelings of others' demands that one abstain, but it is the tact that the feelings of others are in less danger from the thor oughly fried than from the sodden, half-stewed, half-fried onion of commerce. As a flavor, also, the best Tesults are ob tained by frying onions in butter, being careful not to brown the butter as well as the onion, and then straining the butter and so using it in the dish. Octave thakex. BEAUTIES FOR SPRING.' High Novelty Bound Waists Morn Popular Than Ever Applied Trimmlnes (or Costumes Some New Importations Stable Elements In fashion Furs Go ing Ont. Minn FOB THB PISrATCH. Among the leading elements of the win ter fashions some have gained in popularity and will strongly mark the spring modes, and others the warm weather will'see modi fied. "While the blouse a la Bussie will be the high novelty, round waists are more popular than ever and nearly all dresses have belts. Seams are still "in disfavor and the fabric is stretched over the fitted lining, with the fullness gathered or plaited in at the bottom. Beading dressmakers' continue to drape mxnro dough by bat. VEGETABLES IN NEW STYLES. Edward Atkinson's Novel TVorlc "With. Homely Materials Couldn't Get Over worked Wives to I.ook at His Invention TVlmt a Qairt or Oil "mil Bo. rWRITTEJ. FOE TI1E DISPATCH. I was led to conder the right use of food many years ago when charged with the wel fare of a village of some 2,500 people, who depended wholly for their subsistence upon the operation of a factory of which I was the treasurer. It was during a period when It had become necesary to work the mill only four days a week. At the end of the year in which I undertook to deal with the elements of living, many of the operatives assured me, through my agent, that they bad been better o3 on four days' earnings than they ever had been before on six. "When affairs were restored to their nor mal condition I dropped the subject for a long time, until one day I was passing over a building which I was expected to insure when I witnessed, at 12 o'clock, noon, the opening of the dinner pails of the men who were building the factory. The display of cold victuals led me to determine that I would invent a cooking pail which the work men might charge with lood material when they left their bonnes and take to the place of work; by lighting a little lamp attached to it, at 12 o'clock they would find a hot dinner ready lor them, wherever they might be. Animals Far Better Than Men. That invention is completed, but is wait ing for the lurther perfection of some of its details before fceing put into use. This work led me to deal with the right applica tion of heat to food matenak 1 then found out that while, there were many treatises upon the nutrition of beasts, and while one xaicht find in many places the right instruc tions for feeding trotting horses, fattening hogs, putting meat on the boues of beef "critters," or how to produce wool on the back of sheep, there was no popular treatise giving the right instructions for the nutri tion of a man. I found scientific treatises from which the unlearned might gradually learn the func tion of food in the human system, but one might as well expect the hig& heat of fever tovorKine ncui assnmiauon oi lood ma terial in the human body as to expect the high heat of a cooking stove, under ordinary conditions of use, to work the right prepar ation of food for human consumption. The problem presented was first to derive the heat from the fuel that could be com pletely consumed without the need of a strong draft through or over the oven. Ma terials which are subject to complete com bustion are kerosene oil and illuminating gas. Imperfection of Coal Stoves. Had Count Eumford been in possession of these materials he would have accomplished his whole purpose, and might have inveuted the appliances which I have now in part perfected and may soon complete. The im perfect or unsuitable work of the iron stove In which coal is burned is found not only in the strong draft necessary to light the coal, but also in the fact that after the coal is well ignited it burns for hours at an increasing beat. This imperfection has not yet been remedied. The reverse process is required, especially in dealing with meat, to which a fcish'heat may be rightly applied at the be- Octave Thanet Describes Some Masks for Prosaic Potatoes, Sqaaihes,Tnrnips, Etc Recipes That ApprariTnssy bat Aren't Tracedies of the Kitchen. Iweittex ron THE DisrATcn. I can remember a time when elegance in forms of serving vegetables took the one In variable form of the mashed. At dinners of state in modest households, dinners on high holidays, and at daily dinners in houses of gentility, the turnip came on to the board smoothly rounded to a peak in the center of the dish and sprinkled at the apex with black pepper. Tbe squash appeared in a twin dish, and, last of all came the mashed potato. Those vegetables to which nature had de nied the capacity to mash, were always stewed. Such are corn, beans, beets and peas. Elegance was lentto them by the round of black pepper in the middle of the surface. Only one vegetable asserted its right to more garbs than one that -was the sturdy onion. It was fried as well as boiled. But if it appeared ou days of pomp, it must be boiled. And even to this day, in families of other wise educated people," there is a clinging to a few forms of cooking vegetables. The turnip and the squash particularly remain mashed! And only mashed. Turnips, not withstanding, are very good in two other ways as croquettes and with a cream sauce. Here are the recipes: Turnips a la Creme. Make a pint of white sauce out of any kind of stock or out of plain milt, Flavor with Worcestershire sauce. Boil four turnips and cut them In dice. Pdur the sauce over them. Serve. Turnip Croquettes. whito Mrs. Iwlnc Discusses a Question and Gives a Bread Recipe. rWRlTTFN FOR THE DISPATCIT.l I have made bread thousands of times and make it a great many times every year, but I seldom mix a batch of dough without dis covering something connected with the sub ject of bread making of which I had no previous knowledge; consequently I am not prepared yet to answer with a complete certainty a question that is often put to me: "Does dough rise better in the daytime than it does at night?" Most plants, perhaps all, struggle for light and grow more vigorously when they obtain it Is there any reason why the yeast plant should diner from other plants In this respect? I know of none. And al though only a few hours are necessary -- -,- de chene. It is now rechristened point dlr lande a delicate attention of Germany, where it is made,.to Erin. A very charming dress of pale blue cashmere with black polka dots has a black lace, sleeveless jacket on the front, and lace An Ajipearance of Strength. the skirts of wool dresses up over the edges of the waist to form the one-piece effect of a princcsse. The bell demi train will con tinue in vogue for nil but house dresses, but in spite of the impressions given by fashion plates people who dress correctly that is to say, wealthy women of refined tastes wear only short skirts in the street. Some mod istes make the short skirt of one straight piece, without gores, but most of them make use of the side gore. The skirt fullness at the top in front, which is usually disposed of by two short gores, may be gathered into the middle ot tne iront instead, with very good effect when the waist also is gathered into the belt. The gathers'above'and below coinciding make a pleasing unity which is altogether wanting when there are gathers JJ IAkt a Cutrass. G! S2 FIRST-STAGE SECOND-STAGE- F1NAU-"5TACB Take a pint of mashed turnips, s dry as u ai eaten tosether. Salt and pepper. Shape for the growth and development of the yeast plant, will it not be healthier and more vig orous, and perform its functions better if its brief existence takes place under the, most favorable conditions?. And are not light and pure air more conducive to such conditions man aamness ana impure air.' I believe dough rises better and makes a finer-flavored and more nutritious bread when mixed by daylight than it does when mixed at night. So believing, I shall con tinue to mix dough and make bread by daylight, although it is contrary to general usage, until it is scientifically demonstrated that my belief is incorrect. Washington's breakfast bread is the name given in some sections of the country to the cake or bread known generally as Sally Lunn. On the eastern shore of Marvland you will hear it called "Federal bread.1' In some cookbooks you will find mention made of it under the title of "Washington's breakfast bread." The "Father of His Country" is said to have been especially fond of' this bread, and during his adminis tration it became such a fashionable bread for breakfast and tea that some facetious politician of the opposite party dnbbed it "Federal bread." This is a good recipe by which to make it Stir a pill of liquid yeast or two half ounce cakes or compound yeast and a tea spoonful of salt into a quart of hike- arm milk and water, mixed in equal propor tions; then stir in sufficient flour to make a dough somewhat softer than ordinarv bread. Add a tablespoonful of melted but ter and three well-beaten e.rgs. Pourintoa pan and let it rise six or eight hours, or until thoroughly light, then bake in an oven of the same temperature as for bread. When done, split in three or four layers, butter generous'y, replace so the loaf will assume its original shape, and sorve warm in slices. Emma Ewihg. If If covering smoothly the round back. The belt is a twisted black ribbon, fastened with a rosette. The sleeves are mutton leg with their drooping fullness held up by a black'ribbon tied round tho upper arm. The neckband is of gold galoon. A black silk dress in Mrs. "William D. Sloane's wardrobe has jacket fronts of black ground splendidly brocaded with pink and gold. They are as long as the round waist. with square corners, open over a' Fedora front of white lace. Down each side is a row of gold colored, knob-shaped buttons of crotched silk. There is a deep cuff of the brocade, and the rest of the garment is black. Around the back is tied with a rosette bow a ribbon in black and white blocks. The bonnet worn with this gown is of jet with ivory white strings. A heliotrope silk has the round waist covered with jet, like a cuirass. The sleeves are full, that is to say a wrinkled mutton leg, and without trimming. As to jet, do not be tempted into buying this net with straggling patterns of jet on it It is cheap, but it also looks cheap, and only J vulgarizes me uress. oei is so neavy mat it needs a strong gnipure background and to be elegant the ground should be thickly covered. A crepon of dark blue has jacket fronts of the same, lined with pale blue. On the vertical edges is a ruche of fringed silk with a row of passementerie inside. The fronts MORTALITY AMONG INFANTS. i ' . 'cnoranoe of Their Care Is the Canse Tlio Little Ones Have a Stronc Hold on Life Facts As to Diet and tho Benefit or Exercise. rwarmnr fob.thb DisrATCH.t The idea is prevalent that, owing to the frailties of the age, the mortality during infancy and childhood must inevitably be greater than 'in later life. It is, however, acceptedas a fact by-sanitarians that among all born with -sound constitutions, and entirely under favorable circumstances, the mortality during this period ought to be even less than at any other. Here in America one-fourth of all the children die before they have reached the end of the fifth year, and of all who die under fi years of age more than three fifths are less than 1 year old. Of the reasons which can be assigned for this ap palling mortality the most prononnced is neglect on the part of parents, which must very largely be attributed to ignorance. And yet to acquire a good general knowl edge of children's nature and needs ought not to be difficult in this "age of enlighten ment." It is very evident that this terrible lacri flee of the lives of Infants wiH go on until parents, who alone can apply the remedy, have become educated up to their duty to their offspring. Tho Feeding of Infants. The subject of diet is the first to engage attention. Of the infants who die before they are 1 year old, nearly 40 per cent are carried off by diseases of the digestive organs. ik companion fact is that these diseases are very generally caused by im proper feeding. For obvious reasons, infants "brought up on the bottle" are by far the most frequent victims, but the discasea in question site by no means uncommon in those that are nourished by the mother. It goes without saying that she who can naturally nourish her infant should do so, for failing in this duty she not only ignores tneweltareot her little one, but raises up for herself no- end of trouble. She must spend many, many sleepless nights over her restless child; many pleasures must be fore gone: and if she is deserving of the name of mother, her mind can never be at rest, nor can she throw "off her heavy burden of responsibility. And she who resorts to ar tificial foods, from an economic point of view, if from no other, is unfortunate, for within reason, without fear of harm. Of course, there are some articles, such as rich pastries, highly seasoned dishes, fried fats, salt, pepper and vinegar in excess, and strong and indigestible 4condimeuts gener ally, that would, be likely soon to upset her stomach; and indigestion in her means very likely a similar disturbance in her baby. A Very Common Fault Mothers are proverbially inclined to in dulge in beverages that fend to vitiate in stead of improve the secretion. Strong; chocolate is one of these. As long as it is well borne on the, stomach it is not, or course, iiKely to do harm, but as a rule it cannot be safely indulged in ottener than once daily, and even then it must be weak instead of strong, otherwise it will burden, digestion. There are also manv highly con centrated liquid foods that they are liable to, take whether or not they need them. Kone of these should be resorted to unless ad vised by the attending physician, and he is not likely to sanction their use unless the mother is "run down" and not sufficiently well nourished. JIalt liquors ,are yerv often resorted to. Brewers' grains increase'the flow of milk in cows, but such milk is poor, the relative quantity of certain constituents being con siderably reduced, rendering it less nourish ing and also more readily decomposed. Ale and beer have much the same effect upon the human animal a fact that is generally reg istered in.the infants if these beverages are indulged in for several days continuously. Wines and strbnger alcoholic liquors may in some instances stimulate the secretion, bat they give the food irritatirJg properties, and children fed on it are never hardy nor well nourished, but are proverbially rest less, peevish and irritable. "When the sup ply is scanty, the remedy is a more nutri tious and generous diet, "and a greater free dom in the use. of bland liquids. Gruels made of the different meals are especially indicated, and even cows' milk, alone, has a marked effect The Importance of Exercise. Many mothers fail to take sufficient ex ercise, and especially in the open air, and indigestion is one of the common conse quences of this fault Exercise is impera tively required to keep the system from choking up with waste the remnants of foods that are not assimilated, and the products of tissue changes that are constant ly going on within the body. It this waste is allowed to accumulate, it soon chokes up the system and interferes with the impor tant organs, which can no longer do their work easily and quickly as they ought The digestive organs'especiallyare unpleas antly affected in this way, and when slug gish and indolent they cannot properly dis pose of nearly as much food as they might were they vigorous and active. Besides eliminating the waste matters from the system, exercise in a variety of other ways stimulates the different organs to quicker and better work. As a matter of fact, she who has a small family and does au tne non3eworK oi the same, is, as a rule, A HEATHEK COMFOET. The Pretty Japanese Beauties Do , Not Need Foreign Fashions. MISSIONABIES FEOJI THE ORIENT Are u Ifeeessarr for American Women u Cur Workers Tiere. DIRECTIONS" FOR HAKIJTG A ZIU050 mmra ron the dispatch.! In a few shops in this country, namely, the real Japanese shops, not the sham ones, where anything from a hat-rack to a tea cup that has lizards and a moon and a pa goda painted on it, is called Japanese in the real Japanese shops can be found for sale the every day garment of the Japanese women, the kimono. And if American women had half a chance to buy and try this graceful, deliriously comfortable house robe, the cause of missions in Japan would receive a decided check. No woman would subscribe, anything toward enlightening these -comfortable, artistic heathen on Eu ropean fashions and "Worth gowns. The kimono is a loose, wide-sleeved robe, made in a single piece and in any kind of material from cotton crepe to the richest brocade. "When worn it looks like this, on the wearer. The one I know lossible. Add one eg and yolk bi and roll in, egg and crumb, and fry like all A simple variation of the mashed turnips is to scatter fine bread crumbs over the top and dot these with butter. It is very little to do, but it makes a difference of its own in both the appearance and taste of the dish. Points on the fqansh. Squash croquettes are exceptionally good. Take for these one pint ot mashed and smooth squash, the Hubbard Is the best squash; one tablespoonful of rich cream; salt and red pepper to taste; one egsr, well beaten, white and yolk together, ltoll and try as usual. In Hew Orleans, I once knew a shrewd housekeeper of French descent, who kept a fashionable boardme-house. That woman did more with vegetables than I have eer seen done before or since. "We were continu ally praising a course, that when we came to think of it, was purely vegetable, and cheaply vegetable at that In her home I first met baked squash. Nothing can be simpler than baked squash; but it is a pleas ant dish all the same. Baked Squash. Wash well a squash, halve It and clean it, and cut it Into thin dices. Lay these slices into a pan with a little butter on them, and bake them until they are tender You see it is a far easier matter than to boil sq uash or to steam it If you like, you can set a rlaze bv sprinkling sugar over tho pieces. They must not bake too quickly. Fquaith Zonula. Try a squash tonffle some time; it Is not difficult and it is "delicate feasting." To n. pint of mashed squash take a tableapoomnl of melted butter and-enough cream or milk to soften the squash; a h ilf-cuprul will do, usually. Salt, pepper, and add the whites of two eitgs which have been beaten very stilT. Sake in auick oven, in a buttered bakim? dish. Hall an hour should be long enough for the baking. Points on the Parsnip. A parsnip souffle is nice, made almost ex actly like squash souffle, except that the yelks and whites of the eggs are beaten separately and the whites added last ot all Fried parsnips are familiar, but parsnips fried in batter are less familiar than the ordinary form. An old negro cook showed them to me. Parsnips a la Aunt Cindy. Hake any good fritter batter; slice steamed or boiled parsnips, in squaies or short tri angles, about a half inch thick. Dip them In the batter and fry in deep lard; drain and serve. Points on the Onion. Baked onions are less common than the other primitive forms and they are very palatable. It is convenient to parboil them first and then bake three-quarters ot an hour in a good oven. Serve with salted and peppered cream poured over them if you would know their best condition. I knew a cook, a good one, too, who threw a certain BEBVICEABLE AND BEAUTIFUL. Directions for Maklns a Portiere That TfTlI Be a Jov Almost Forever. Of curtains and portieres we can scarcely have too many, and the one for which the illustration" offers a design is handsome enough to find a plate jn evtn the best equipped of homes. It is made of old rose colored plantation cloth, in which as a back ground the decoration is applied in a deeper shadji of the same color combined with gold. The curious, sprawling figures, wliich look more nearly like some curious form of jelly fish than any other natural Of Tate Blue Cashmere. above and xgores below. The dressmaker -may demurs to this, innovation, ,but if yon' persist in demanding it beauty will be added to your gown, and the gown will be none the less fashionable. Keck bands continue high. The sleeve. with its reduction in height, has grown very long on the hand. As a result of this, the mousquetaire glove hasbeen rendered nearly useless, and two button gloves have come into vosue. Applied trimmings are a great resource for costumes, and must continue to be so as long as gores and biases are in use. Pas sementeries and lace are in great vogue for trimmings. Id using passementerie dis crimination is needed. The designs are mostly unsuited to the definite purpose of ornamentation. They are made up of de tached units which are best suited to all over use, and the strips may be taken apart . aif fisl 41 Jim Ready for the Street. do not meet and this border passes round the neck. The front underneath is a cuirass effect of ecra, black and gold embroidery. "With this rich front the sleeves are entirely plain, and their beauty should depend on the cut, on the grace with which the folds clothe or display the arm. The hat worn with this is a wide flange turban, with a knot of gold directly in front, and an aigrette of coques plumes. - Ada Bachb Coins. A STAND FOB ENGBAVIHGl Ifrs. Sloane's Slack Bilk. A Hint at Its Beauty. form, are cut from plush one shade darter than the cloth, and are placed at intervals all oyer.the hanging. -Each is first basted firmly into place and is then made perma nently fast with a coaching of heavy floss. That is, the floss is carried round all the edges and is sewn down with the finest pos sible gold thread, so that just tiny bits of brightness are visible here and these. The small circular center of each figure is either entirely filled with fancy stitches in gold or is darned with gold thread one way and silk the other, so that each figure has a different center, and each adds its bit of glinting gold to the whole eflect The lines which run here- and there, and serve to connect the several figures as well as to give a graceful effect to the whole, are worked with twisted floss of the same shade as the plusb, and have their outlines couched with gold. Wrx.Ii call on yon with samples and fur nish estimates on furniture reupbolstery. UAUGH ea leenan, si water' street s and the units Joined together to cover a solid space,as the, corner ot a jacket, with rich effect They are also effective above a border, as an accessory; but for the border itself, and foi girdles and bands, it is diffi cult to find an appropriate pattern. A girdle especially should be of such de sign as will carry the eye round and give an appearance, of strength. The amateur with tome knowledge of design may join to gether two or more narrow strips and per haps add units ripped from another one, aud so make a border or girdle that will have some character and individuality. There are art possibilities in this applique trimming, but the manufacturers are yet ob livious ot them. Do not be afraid to exper iment because you may not join the pieces as true as a machine can. Signs upon it of hand work will only make it more inter esting. , Fur this season, in spite of much talk, has played a small part as an essential of dress. Its decorative quality as an acces sory has been largely developed, but the woman who borders with it her ball gown is likely to go without it in the street Bound waists for demi-dress visiting and theater are elaborated by jacket fronts. Great variety is obtained in this way with the use of lace and of.jetted guipire net This fashion will last through the spring. Trimming laces are being im ported in great quantities. There is a new black lace of wool and silk in coarse meshes looking as if crotched. It has a large, heavy pattern, some of which appears to be a silk cord appliqned on. It is called "punchinella" lace. The white to be used on spring gowns is the same coarse mesh of pure cotton that has been worn all winter! on cloth dresses; under the Ban ot point J If eat and Artistic and 'Worth Place In Any Elegant Parlor. IWB1TIEN FOE THB PISPATCH. I Something very new and very handsome is the deep portfolio of pale red mahogany; very highly polished shown hera. The feet rods, clamps and fittings are of lacquered brass, in wonderfully light and graceful lines. "When the movable leaf lets down, an easel, also of brass rods, can be drawn ,np on top of the stationary side, where I K mmi ill fP A OABINET FIREPLACE. Quite the newest pattern of fireplace is called the "Colonial," for the reason, possi bly, that no colonial dame or 'squire ever saw its like. It is all in white wood, picked out faintly with gold, has a firm narrow shelf, with heavy mouldings nnder it, a straight face sometimes nnornamented, sometimes cat into narrow panels and stiff, straight grenadier-looking jambs. Generally the shelf is topped with a mirror, cut in there, a longish square in the middle and an upright oval at either end. Above it there is a narrower s helf, which, like tbe frame, is in white and gold. The fireplace and hearth are of plain white encaustic tiles that can be scoured clean daily and will stand any amount of heat mm An American in a JSimona. best and love most is made of cotton crepe, white with sprays of blue hawthorn all over it The making of one is fascinating, first, because yon can't possibly see in putting it together how it's ever going to come out, even a pagan gown like this kimono, and second, because there' isn't any cutting or planning whatever and, if yon make yours as the Japanese women do theirs, only the longest kind of basting stitches with stout thread. This is how 70a mast set to work to make it: Cut two pieces of cloth each 11 Inches wlfla. and 1 yards long. Now study the diagram carefully for a few.mlnutes. Here are tbe two pieces laid side by side. Nevermind the square ears at tbe side; they will be the sleeves when we get to them. Sew together the two sides marked B, D, for half the length of the strip. Then take the scissors, ana at the point where you stopped sewlnir cut each breadth half way cross. This makes the neck when properly manipulated. Told the triangular piece, lapel-wlse underneath. leaving a T-shaped opening for the neok. Now double the entire piece of cloth and. joining the two points marked X to the two points marked Z, sew these side seams to within 20 Inches of the middle fold, 1eave that space for the sleeve. Now take - m An Engraving Stand. picture after picture may be placed and looked at without the fatigue or inconven ience of holding it The price, 890, will seem cheap to any son of Midas who has ever bent him painfully over a collection of rare prints or etchings or sketches, displayed painfully on table or in the hand. Another stand, something smaller, wholly of etched brass, has no easel attachment, but spreads ont into a desk tall enough to let yon look at what it holds withont dam age'to your amiability. Bad Case of Mental Confusion. "Sid Harold call on yon this morning, papa?" "Yes; but I couldn't make much ont of what he said. I understood him to say that he wanted to marrr me. and that von had .enough to support him, so Xsent him home ana toia mm to write u oat," .- aside from the expense of the food, there are the doctor's bills to consider, and they are likely to be large in every case in which the baby is watched with tender solicitude. The infinite majority of mothers can nurse their Infants if they choose to do so, but a mother who has a consumptive taint would be more likely to become consump tive were she to nurse her infant She would also transmit to the little one a ten dency to that same dread malady. So with other physical imperfections. As for moral infirmities, all that are pronounced have a bad influence upon a nursing child. Mothers of Violent Tempera. In the case of a young mother of a frivo lous nature, over-fond of society, and sure to be restive and unhappy under the re straint that she must necessarily bear if she nurses her baby, she ought to be allowed to entrust its nourishment to others. It would be an nnpardonable sin for stippling mother to nurse her little one. "Women of violent tempers, and those who are un happily married, or are deeply despondent from whatsoever cause, cannot properly nourish children. Moral affections, as fright, anger, grief, etc., have a marked influence upon the quantity and quality of the milk. Let a mother be for a few hours "out of sorts," and the night following her baby is likely to be restless and sleepless. In such instances, also, there is frequently colic and diarrhea. A violent fit of anger in the mother may bring on convulsions in her babe, and cases are on record in which death even has been caused. " A sound mind is quite as essential in a nursing mother as a sound body. She who is mentally weakeven if the signs of aber ration are the taintest, ana scarcely more than bare suspicions, should not nurse her babe, for the duty would be too severe and tend to still further weaken her mind; moreover were the child to die the loss might induce insanity. Calmness and equa nimity are high on the list of nursing mothers' essentials. It is apparent then that a certain proportion of "mothers are absolutely disqualified, and the question of fitness is one that deserves the most careful consideration. A Popnlar Delusion Dispelled. In consequence of absurd prejudices as to foods it is quite the rule, to find mothers making radical changes in their manner of living as soon as they begin nursing; and a common result is that in.the course of four or five months the supply becomes scanty or poor in quality, and mixed feeding or weaning in necessary. The only general rule that can be fixed for nursing mothers is, that the diet be of good quality, nourish ing, fairly substantial, ana moderate" in quantity. Before going further than this in an attempt to establish a rule, the previous customs of each mother must be taken into consideration. If one has been a "meat eater," and never fond of veget ables, then a diet largely made np of them would not be appropriate for her. Nor should a vegetarian be made to 'live almost entirely npon flesh foods. As a matter of fact, proved bv experi ments, the food itselt has little, if any, di rect influence. That is, it a mother squeezes a bit of lemon upon her fried fish, or pats a little vinegar npon her salad, ner conscience need not reproach her, for there is no like lihood whatever of her baby being affeoted bran occasional indulgence of this sort AndihtMn est f vegetable aadfnMvJ the healthiest But she, as well as the more fortunate that are not obliged to work, should be often in the open air. Frequent walks should be taken by all mothers. They should not be long or fatiguing, but moderate in extent, aud in localities where much that is pleasing and diverting is en countered. Among the theories prevalent with mothers is one that if they take cold or are feverish from other causes, their babies also become feverish. This is possible when the fever runs very high, but in mild attacks, and especially in those that last only a few days, the little ones are not likely to be affected. As for the influence of other diseases the advice of a physician is the only safe guide. Dk. Frank. BKAILS FOB C0NSUMPTI01T. Not a Kew Theory, as the Horrible Deeoe- tlon Was Used In 1746. Many of the alleged discoveries in medi cine are after all little more than revivals of very old theories, says a St Bonis doctor in the Globe-Democrat One of the latest fads for the treatment of consumption is the snail cure, wnicn is saia to nave oeen tnea ana found successful There is nothing new in this, for in an old medical work, published in 1746, copies of which are still to be found in several libraries, there is a long account of how a mixture of garden snails and earth worms will cure consumption, and from more recent books the fact can be gleaned that this very objectionable remedy has been popnlar in the South of England and in "Wales for years, being regarded as superior in every respect to drinking cod liver oil. X 3 M 'pi y : 1 1 ? r ' aJL 2LU.J2 -Ui - Sow to Cut It. a straight piece for each sleeve, 10 lnehe long and 18 inches wide. Double It J nil as) If yon were going to make a bay, and sew the short ends together. Then sew one of the long sides half way across and stop. Sew the other long side Into the edge of tho silt left in the side seam. There la your sleeve! Tne hand slips through tho space left in the long side sewed first Now slip into the eannent and yon win begin to understand Its shaping or its laok of it Slope tbe v-shape of tbe neck half way down to the waist line, and, because the front of the skirt is too narrow to close well, widen it by two narrow widths on eaoh, front breadth running from the bottom to the supposed waist line, and narrowing toward the top. The diagram makes this point clear. The one thing that remains to be done la to finish the neefc. For this, take a straight band of the cloth three Inches wide and pnt it on straight around the entire V-shaped opening. Then the kimono Is done. There are no buttons and button holes, no whale bones, no corsets beneath. The garment la lapped a little at the waist and is thrust through with a long pin. Tied loosely about the waist is a blue and white twisted girdle that goes with the kimono. Helen "Wattebsox Only chemists 'can discover tho Ammonia Taint in Water but any housekeeper can easily find out for herself whether she is using an Ammonia Tainted Baking Powder by boiling in a tin cup a heaping teaspoonful of the baking powder in .one teaspoonful of hot water. The slightest odor of ammonia 'in the rising steam condemns the powder. Most baking powders contain ammonia, Cleveland's does not, not a particle but test it, you will find Cleveland's Baking Powder Stands all Tests. z ;, v Jf ' -i &5 -4 klBiL!EWflflflHflkkkkHikvHsVkr7 hB&. JLsHkVHikaBVkVHklkklkkaikVkVklkVkBBlS flslHB
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers