Pt RICHWOMEN'SWQRK Those TTho Have to Toil fcr a Irring Should Sot Object to Their Be ing in the Field, EiDEPEKDEJT WOMEN AEEKEEDED To Raise the Standard of Wages t Wsot It Hwnld e for Those TTho Host Hare the Honey. KO EEI 15 POLITICAL KOFOIT. TTiit Some Independent TTomes TTonll S if Hey Etoald Eaddenly Becomt Pea rtBTTE! FOB THE CXSrJLTtnU AS the well-to-do young -woman a moral right to work if she wants to? That is, shall ths woman whose living does not de pend upon her daily labor pnt herself into compe tition with the woman who must earn her bread before she csn cat it? The question has but cently arisen, because only within the past -i few years that young wo men have had either the equipment or the desire to do serious work, except where necessity compelled it. But it is here now, a most delicate social problem. Ask 99 out of 100 working women, and the instant re sponse will be,, in sentiment, if not In words: "The world is full of women who must work for an honest livelihood. Every new worker that enters the field lessens the opportunities of the others. The rich young woman must not take bread from the mouths of poorer ones. There is no right but that ot necessity." "Well, there is human nature in the an swer, at an rate. Is there logic? Let us see. Much depends upon the way in which you regard work. The mass of us are sure that it is an unmitigated curse. Part of us blsmeAdam and I Eve for it, and the rest put he blame upon that first hairy, long tailed, inquisiu-e ancestor of ours who couldn't be contected until he had found out bow to light a Cre or to construct some thing more impenetrable than the leafy roof under which the Eace-in-the-making had lived so long and so comfortably. Some People Are Eccentric But there are a few people in the world, who are caught in an obstinate taste for work, who would really rather keep their wits astir and their eyes open and their souls growing than sit under the greenest tree by the wayside and pipe the idlest tunes of ease and forgetfulness. This is bad taste, of course, to the rest of the wcrld. but it's as honest as a great many other bad tastes. And occasionally one of these persons happens to be a woman, and a woman who, in selecting a parent, made the mistake of settling on one who had dollar; In his pure. Here arises the complicat'on. She has dollars ana a daddy; she may have anything that these two "togther can give her, exceat the blessed liberty to work with her ovn hands, to see with her own eyes, to draw her own conclusions and to wrest good out ot liardsh' j and disciplin-s and pains. It all Uenends. you upp. Th ninpftf. nine poor women who deny the hundredth rich woman the right to work fail to look at it from her point of view. This much is certain. Xo woman who lias moner enough, works tor money. Ztfen do; and here is where a part of the confusion arises. But when a rich woman, or a well-to-do woman, works, it is sane 10 suppose that she works out of some other love than a dollar-love. Is there room for no other motive than the dollar one? Is there no possibility of a recognition that one's work in the world has Miniethins to do with one's worth in the irorid; that strensth and wisdnm and com petence are worth having tor their own sake? Why. the very feet of a woman ho is mistress of some one thing, stand more squ.-.rly upon the earth, the very eyes of her look more sensibly and frankly into the eves of men, if she says: "This one thing I can do and do it well." o Srx in Political Honomr. Take the case of a young man who at 21 comes into the possession of a fortune. Is It held to beany reproach to him that he at once puts his money and his brains at work? Xav, verily, is it not held to be a reproach to turn it he doesn f? JSo one tells him he Is taking the bread out of the mouths of more needy men. Why, then, should his ri6ter be accused of larder-robbery if she does the same thing? Is there a sex in political economy as well as in political everything ehe? Shall we not grant to women a recognition of the moral qua'ity that goes in'o work, or rather of the moral dignity with which work invests the worker? "Oh, very well," says some keen-brained young woman reading this, "if moral re wards are what rich women are after, let them work for moral rewards and let the rest of us have the dollars. Let them work without asking pay for it," My dear short-sighted young woman, don't you know that this world has some laws of its own, which it expects us to ac cept, and that one of these is the severe economic one that governs a bargain? A bargain demands an exchange of values, ami just now moral rewards do not pass as counters in the realms of this world. A man may not even give a piece of land to his wife for the moral reward alone a certain sum of money must pasj between them. The dollar sign is Etill the outward and isible sign of a bargain, of a service rendered, of value received. The spectacU of a youug woman setting forth on a quest of w ork for moral rewards alone, is as cbaru and impossible as the Idea of a Broadway merchant distributing gowns and household goods for the same lofty emolu ments. Ehe Will Keep Waces Up. Xay, more, so far from having a notion or working for only moral rewards, this voung woman oncht to insist on getting just as many dollars for her work as she can com mand. First, because it's good business to sell a thing tor all it's worth; second, be cause in the business world, the worth ot a worker is largely gauged by the amount of money he or she is able to command, and a woman li s a right to invest her work and herself with the utmost dignity; lastly, it is ouly in this way that she will be able to render her greatest service to other women the -ertice of pushing the leel of wages up and not down. It is the woman who can alloid not to work who must do this; the wora-in who will go hungry, and, worse still, let others go hungry, is so placed that the mi'.ct take what she can get This,more thai, that inju-tice of men we hear so much, about, is wiiat makes women's wages low. The u oman w ho insists on having the full value of her work, and who can wait until she gets it, is the woman that is needed among the working women to-day. So, you see, you short-sighted young woman w ho wanted rich women to work for moral rewards, the moral rewards are there, though they work themselves out through dollars and cents. And the especial beauty of this arrjngtment is that these moral re wards work back into more dollars and cents for you. Competency of the TVell-To-Do. Another service not so grateful a one to you, perhaps, but one that will do you a po er of good in the long run which the presence ot rich women in the wage-earning field is going to perform, is that of raising Wsk K " Y--- v v vr- ' ' '- ' the standard of competence among women. It's as easy as whistling to see that no young woman is going to raise the wage level except by offering superior compe tence for the high wages she commands. She may be uncomfortably rich and grimly determined to have good wages or none at all, but she won't get them unless she is worth them. It is also easy to see, if you think about it a minute, "that the well-to-do voung woman is pretty likely to be precisely the comnetent one." She has had time anil op portunity to make herself so, and the same love for work that led her into it, will make her competent in the work. One of the best known and most skillful women physicians in Jfew York is the daughter of a rich man who died leaving her, while still young, with a fortune. She loved medicine; she went to Iiondon, to Paris and to Vienna, and came hack with all that they could teach her. The same love that made her a physician made her a good physician. AVhen wort is elective it is sure to be superior. Objections of the Doubter. The last objection of the keen brained young woman who reads this and refuses to take a word of stock in it, is this that after all, the rich young woman won't insist on any of these higher thines which, she can see, may really make her presence among working women beneficial in the long.mn. Says this shrewd young doubter: "The rich woman if going to do just as the rest of us have to, get down from her throne and hustle round for her wages. That't what business is, and she is going to come it, sooner or later." Is she? Hold this distinctly In your mind. She isn't working for wages first and alone. She's working because she wants to. She's a clear-headed, clear-sighted young woman or she wouldn't have seen that there is anything better than the life she was born in. If she has had moral vision and determination enough to rise out oi tne riches that are so much Carder to overcome than proverty, she'll have moral vision and determination enough to help other women, and not help to rob them. Lastly, are there any such rich young women as these women who would be glad to work, to work hard, to work from pure love of it and of its highest rewards? Are there any women so foolish? You ask. Within three months, I have received letters from six, all strangers, and all asking for opportunities. HnEir Wattersojt. HOW TO EARN A LIVING. Prominent and Wealthy Women Tell What They Would Do If They Should Become Dependent Sirs. Harrison Would Paint -311ss Dodge Would Organize Xou like Newspaper Work. rWKITTfiX FOR THE-DISrATCn.1 Woman fin de siecle is no adjunct, but an entity. Xo matter who she may be, daugh ter or wife or sister, she has her own per sonality, is recognized as an Individual force, and more and more assumes the bur den of herself. Fifty years back she got her opinions and beliefs ready-made and gave her whole mind to the manufacture of her undergarments. Nowadays she gets her lingerie ready-made and makes up her own mind, that whatever is or is not, is right. Xotwithstand'ng, there are still women a plenty, to whom the thought of self-maintenance brings a thrill of horror. Aside from the physical pains and penalties of work, they fear the loss of social caste, quite as much as the vague possibility of starvation. To this legion of timid souls, what follows must be full of refreshment almost of inspiration for it tells how some of the fortunate women, who, like the lilies of the field, "toil not, neither do they spin." would meet and conquer such an emergency. . They were asked categorically: What would you do if you had to earn your living? Mrs. Harrison and Her Brush. What the wife and daughter of the Presi dent of the United States answered is cer tainly of great interest. When they were asked, Mrs. McKee said for both: "I think there is no doubt as to what my mother would do in such a case. With her talent for thetrusH it would be most nat ural for her to support herself by her art in painting. She has, I think, a livelihood in that gift if she cared to earn it, and in theso days, when art is everywhere in demand, no one with such a gift netds despair of suc cess. "As to myself," continued Mrs. McKee, "I have often wondered what I should do if I were ever driven to earn my living: for, indeed, I have no talent whatever. I think that every girl, as well as boy, should be educated to follow some profession or trade, and should be thus prepared for the every day emergencies of life." The next to answer was Mrs. Eoger A. Pryor, born Eice, who traces her pedigree through Blairs and Ap-Eiccs in anantitv back to the royal Cymrii, the kings of boutn ale'. Horn Heiress to great wealth and bred in the social tradition that bounds woman's sphere with the four walls of her home, it is a bit surprising to find her vice president of half a dozen great organiza tions notably the Daughters of the Amer ican Eevolution and the Mary Washington Monument Association. This and much more greatness has been thrust upon her by her fellow women a piecp of emme'nt good taste on their part. This is how she answers the question. Literature, Not Journalism. "I would earn a living by writting and choose literature rather than journalism. An educated woman, tenderly reared, espe cially if she had borne children, it seems to me, must always choose some occupation not requiring manual strength, but bringing into play the capacity that experience has brought her. I think, too, that no woman of good brain can live a great while without becoming unconsciously so trained and de veloped in several directions, or to have more than one door open to her, if need came to enter it Certainly I would choose and endeavor so to use my mental gifts as to help the generations that shall 09010 after us to understand its fore-fathers and how well and worthily they struggled for free dom and the right." Eterybody has heard of the Dodge family, with its habit of being at once millionaires and philanthropists. Everybody has heard of Miss Grace H. Dodge, once a member of the Board of Ed cation; friend of working girls and their clubs, and generally given to good works. Her position is unique; so also is her personality. She is tall and well made, with a strong, oval face, fresh colored and full of a radiant wholesomeness that warms your heart It is the unhkeliest thing in the world that she will ever havo to earn a dollar; but if she should, this is how shewould go about it What Grace Dodge Wou'd Do. "I would try first for the place of organ izing secretary in some association as I have both capacity and liking for the work. Failing that I do not think I should fail my aim would beto secure the place of ma tron in some institution. Next to that, housekeeping would be my resource. Neither place would bring me any loss of social caste provided always, of course, that the necessity for it had honorably arisen. Indeed, in my judgment, society holds out its choicest favor to the woman whose cunning of hand or brain makes her thoroughly independent Men so wise as ex-Mayor Hewitt and Bishop Potter, have given each of their daugh ters a trade or profession; it necessary, they are still secure against hardship. In fact, so general is the disposition to work among women who have no need to do it, that it is a question if they are not carrying it too far. Very few are now willing to depend even on a brother or father and very shortly they may put husbands in the same category. To me it seems that t.'e right of rich women to crowd the labor market and diminish the chances of necessary wage earners is one of the nicest social problems of the day. Until I settle it to my own satisfaction I shall not go out unjustifiably hunting a place!" Russell Sage, Esq., inot-the very richest man in New York Jay GouldJ for in stance, has a few millions the more but with one accord, "the street" agrees that , o.- . -.- THE TABLE. THE . BOUDOIR. HOME Mr. Sage can check for mpre clear cash and get it, than any of its monied magnates. Against his gold, Mrs. Eussell Sage has silver; a crown of silver hair, and the clear notes of her low, well-bred voice: she has the further charm of graciousness, along with' exquisite common sense; she said: Example of Louise Alcott. "If I had to earn my living I would do as did Louise Alcott; I knew her well before and after she grew great She said to me once: 'For 20 years I did whatever my hands found to do cooked, sewed, taught, nursed, wrote then all at once I found mvself famous as I never could have been but for that developing diversity.' I myself knew something of it. At 15 my father lost his fortune all swept away by indorsements for a friend who went down in the year of the panio 1837. We had but the merest pittance left, and my father, I think, never fully got over the shock ot it; but to me I am sure it was a wholesome, invigorating experience. It made me self-reliant in jplace ol self-indulgent If such a one could come to the petted, pampered darlings of fortune we see on all sides, I am sure it would be very much for the better for their characters- Before that, though, I was taught all sorts of work; my mother believed as I do, that no bit of real learning will be useless. I was sent to Mrs. Willard's famous Troy school the Very best of that day. After several years at home, I began teaching with Mrs. Dillaye, under whom I had stud ied at Mrs. Willard's. in what is now the Ogontz school, near Philadelphia, So yon see I havo earned my living. To me it ceems that the root of failure lies often in the thought that you can do but one thing and must do that or nothing. Successful people are those who take what comes to hand and if it be small wait and work for something better. There is nothing so hopeless as helplessness with malice pre pence." Sirs. Paran Stevens and Newspapers. Very much what Queen Victoria is among European potentates, is Mrs. Paran Stevens among New York's social rulers. Looking 'at the upright figure, the speaking face, radiant with vital force," you do not wonder that London's inner circle was so ready to receive and welcome the handsome Ameri can, whose wealth was backed with the piquant savor of originality. Her answer is entirely characteristic She said: "What an idea I What a question I It is a very interesting one, to be sure, and one that every woman ought to be prepared to answer. It is my theory that want is very often as willful as it is wofuL The man or woman who has pluck of tbe right tort, compels opportunity by making tbe most of whatever is at hand. Knowledge of every sort is power; the more knowledge you have, the better you are insured against all hazards of fortune. That is why I was so careful to give my daughter a thorough education. If need were to-morrow, she could take care of herself and her children. Whatever success I may have had in life, I owe first to my New England blood, and after that to my good American education, which is, in m7 judgment, much better than that which English women receive. What I, myself, would do to earn a living is a very open question. Energy, courage and honest cap acity never, I think, go long a begging. One thing I should not choose newspaper work." EASILY MADE AND C0MT0BTABIX The TJipU for Wear In One's Own Boom Hasn't an Equal in Garments. rWMTTES FOE THE DISPATCH. J OMEN who haye lit tle time for sewing and little money to spend, can find great comfort in their own room by wearing a ul piL This ca be made, even by band, In less than an hour, and is far more comfortable, as well as more artis tic than any dressing sack There is no cutting out to be done and no fastenings are required. The word nipil is from the Maya lan guage, spoken in Guatemala, Honduras and Yucatan. The garment thus called has been in use for many centuries throughout Central America down to Darien. The Maya women, who were, and are. yet, re nowned for their good looks and fine figures, refuse to adopt any different shaped dress; those who can afford it. make their nil ils cost ly with embroidery and lace, though the body of tbe earment is always cotton or linen, snow white. But the nipil can be made of any stuff or color, aud is the easiest, most delightful garment imaginable for warm weather; and for winter, too, if made of woolen gooas. Furthermore, it is as easy to iron as a towel It requires two yards of SS-inch mate rial. In the very middle of the piece cut a hole round, square or v shaped as is liied, just large enough to slip over the head without disturbing the hair. Tbe Mayas always make the opening square. Now, double the stuff and sew the straight edges to gether, leaving an opening on each side at the top for the arms to go through. Hem the lower edge, neck and arm-boles, and all is done. The lone, straight shoulder-seam falls nearly to tbe elbow, serving as sleeve, causing the sides of the garment to hang lower . , , than the back or front, pro- VtoCW ducing folds and the penlum effect Made of China or India silk, the uipil is lovely, "1'c.iiijf wnen tne neck is trimmed with lace. The Maya women put deep lace all round the lower edge and wide colored insertion above it, as well as around the square neck. If preferred, the neok could be cut round and much larger, then bound and a ribbon run through it Bow Jt Looks so as to gather it full at the When Cut. throat This shortens the shoulders and the effect is very pretty. Sleeves could be added, if desired, and a ribbon tied around the waist Alice D. Lb Plo2toeo& WILES OF THE LANDLADY. How She Made Her Shivering Boarders Warm With Imagination. The first cold wave had congealed Pitts burg and paralyzed its inhabitants. The thermometer in' the boarding house dropped steadily down the cellar, looking for the furnace fire, whose ashes had long since been gathered into urns. A shivering pro cession came slowly down the basement stairs, to the evening meal, wearing a mot ley garb of steamer rugs, sealskin capes and last year's ulsters. The landlady sat at the head of tbe table, waiving a large palm leaf fan. Beside her stood the ice water jug, and as ea-.h frozen member of the dejected company ap- firoached, she proffered a glass ot the en ivening fluid, and pleasantly asked: 'Wouldn't you like to have the window opened? It's very hot in here." "There's nothing either good or bad, but" that thinking makes it so." Portraits for Christmas Presents. This month, a handsome 8x10 frame with every doz. cabinet photos. Also genuine crayons at special low prices. Las' Studio, 10 and 12 Sixth 'it. MVSU 1 m aV b.w 1 . D. ' . ; Tnmm Pi'i'ivim I un. tythpatyttt- smCDATi' wn-UTTivm-nro M w.M iUi.iW "V. , AM OF THE MILLINER. If An Bight, Sometimes, but Brery Woman Should Be Her Own Judge How at Rich Idy Buys Her Hat In Now York The latest Deslcna for Winter Wear Ad Cone's tetter. roobkisfomdihce ot the dispatch. New Yobk, Nov. 14. It is morning at the French milliner's in Fifth avenue. The sun slanting through the 1 a o o curtained front falls in bars like music measures on the thick pile carpet i Along each side of the !) wall gilded mirrors f make diversion at is tervals. Before each one stand high-backed plush seated, chairs, which move on balls of crystal In the cen ter of the room a table bears up aload of won derful confections examples of the winter's designs created by the most renowned artists la headwear. An Impressionist picture of the table would show great discs with films of black lace, and ribbons depending from them, and above these feather clusters, raven's wings and ribbon loops seeming to hover like butterflies. Women with trailing garments move quietly about; they push the chairs into better position for tbe patrons, who sink into them with Delsartian grace. Voices fall in softest murmurs on the air, heavy with warmth and perfume. Groups of twos or threes are be fore each mirror the customer with, her at tendant maid or friends. The saleswoman stands behind the chair and lays now this hat, now that, down uoon the head before her, trying tor ono which shall combine well with the face. Before an unbecoming one has had time to embarrass the lady it has been drawn away and another laid gently in its place. The saleswoman is an arrist. "Ah, madam, this at length suits you." Madam, holding an oval glass, turns her head about and sighs contentedly. Yes; it will do. "The price?" ehe queries inci dentally. "Thirty dollars, madam. A mere baga telle for such a confection." And madam goes her way, havingparted with her money as a breath falls. No vulgar limit of price mars the smiling serenity of the place. There is here but one consideration what is suitable. Well; a hat may be worth $30, or what ever one can afford to pay for it. The value so rated will mot be in ma terials, nor in the hand labor of it, but in a cer tain indescribable some thing that art gives. But women who must count their money and make a hat or two answer all pur poses for the season want taste and exclusive style just as much as though they could pay for it How can it be had? Here is advice. Trim your own hat and Vjf make your own bonnet; or ai least direct your mil liner, Instead of deferring to her. Do not believe that because a woman has a trade she is therefore an artist You yourself must supply the taste. The large hats this season have low flat crowns and five-inch circular brims, which droop slightly on the side and grow narrow or else are caught up at the back. They are of seft felt, 01 shaggy beayer, of velvet.and of satin. The small bats are toques and .-vuud uu sua. icibo iu wautmij snupes. Among the bonnets are several new shapes, especially one, a cross between bonnet and hat, that seems to fill'a real want of pretty young women. Bibot makes an exquisite satin hat of pale green, with appliques of black passe menterie upon it Three small satin rosettes catch up the baek, and a Prince of Wales clus ter of black tips is in front The light tans have white mingled with self color, in the trimmings. A fawn colored plush hat has round the crown a bandeau of white vel vet; black ostrich tips are in front, and white satin rosettes fasten up the back; white strings. The leading elements of tbe trimming are clusters of black ostrich tips, usually three, and frequently arranged in a pompon in imitation of the crest of the Prince of Wales. Eosettes are another beautiful feature of the trimmings. They are made from satin ribbon two inches wide, and are of all sizes, from those which serve as pompons to the tiny four-loop ones that head bonnet strings. Strings are on nearly all the large hats, as well as on the bonnets. They are of satin ribbon about two inches wide, and cross at the back and tie in front, not close under the chin, but loosely about the throat The trimming is, for the most part, cent ered high at the back and allowed to fall iVr l ??W?u HrSh trinlnng is occasion ally added to the front also, but the high effect at both back and front is not new, nor is it seen as often as in the summer Less dressy but stylish hats for" common wear are soft, English felts called Tyro leans. They are with out trimming, except for a bow, or wing, at the side, and are too severe for our faces. A most becoming shape is a soft astrakan turban, creased through the middle. A severely stylish walk ing hat, called t Ire "Paul Jones," is of beaver, rolled up at back and sides. It is trimmed hiirh at the back, with an enormous rosette and a cluster ot tips. ' The middle srround between hal and bon net is still occupied by the toque, which is still trimmed with clo'th and velvet mingled In soft folds, and centering at the back with wings or a knot A good model for a tur ban has a low bell-shaped crown of beaver with a brim of velvet Two standing loops of velvet and a wingare placed at the back. The new design in bonnets mentioned, has a small, flat crown, like that of a hat. and a poke rim. The trimming should be a ruche set round the edge, on the upper side, with a small ornament set in the ruche at the extreme front edge. A simple vandeau encircles the crown aud falls at the backN to form strings. A dressy model is of silver passementerie, trimmed with a black lace ruche and a pale blue satin rosette in front, out of which rise two small black' wings. Blue satin strings are set on four inches apart under tiny rosettes. For street bonnets these two shapes lend themselves well to the mink tail border, which is popular. Ada Cons. SX2NHABDFS I&SIZ IN HATB. She Bought Three In Chicacjo and Thereby Established a Style. tWBITTEN FOB TUB DISPATCH. The most elegant and the newest thing made by the exclusive milliners is the satin hat Bernhardt, whose approval is a signet of taste, ordered three such hats in Chicago the other day. One -of them was of '&JlWB& WF&ZZfcJM m WTm fSli I w ft Bf r l'",'.! I'M J-V, 0 RATIONS black. The brim at was slashed and one edge the hack turned up, Sara BerrihardCs Kew Htct. and the other half curled, as of reluctant Three rich ostrich tips and a big three-cornered fan of velvet, both black, were fas tened at the back, and fell over and con cealed the crown. Two satin ribbon rosettes of pale heliotrope, placed one in front and one at the back, furnished all the color. Black satin strings fell down through the slash behind. THE TUBEE-QTJABIEBCAPX. It Will Not Be Worn by Feoplo of Taste Sl ept for the Theater. rwT.ITTEU ron THE DISPATCH.1 The market is full of cloaks, but the ex clusive winter fashions are hardly deter mined yet It is too 'early yet by some weeks to say what dress cloaks will be. po not buy a three-quarter length cape. They will not bo worn by people of taste, except in the form of opera cloaks. Why is this? They are too pronounced. Their lifted shoulders are exaggerations and their Medici collars are too flaring. The cape lends itself to rich materials and is a good one for an evening wrap, but in rough cloth, for street wear, is out of place. The Simplest Coat ts Most Effcato. Street jackets are fixed in style, and the most simple are the most elegant Two models may be mentioned. One is double or single breasted, with loose fronts and fitted back, is of medium length and has a collar rolled over and ending in short re verse. The edges are simply stitohed and no trimming is used on the sleeves. When fur is used on these jack -fa a five-inch strip faces the collar and passes down to the hottom, facing both sides underneath, and shows only as an edge when the coat is fastened. The fastenings are inconspicu ous, being frequently loops sewed under the edge and small crocheted buttons. HAHDS0ME STEEET JACKJTl The Popular Colors and the Prices at Which the Goods Come. rwMTTEN FOB THE DtSPATCH.1 A good design for a street jacket is the fitted jacket, with hip seams, reaching nearly to the knees. One of hunter's green serge, slightly double-breasted, with turned over collar and slight reverse, has for orna ment black passementerie appliqued in a broad band around the neck and down the middle of the front Passementerie is appli qued over the lower part to the hip seams. Seal brown, dark green, blue and black are more elegant colors for jackets than the tan shades. Bough surface Green Coot With Black Decoration. materials are cheviots and camel's hair, from $2 25 a yard up. Two yards are re quired. Bedford cord, at $6, is elegant, so also is ladies' cloth, which may be had at 51 45, sufficiently heavy. The last needs interlining. All "jackets' are lined. Astra khan is shown also for jackets. It costs from 54 to $17, and is slightly narrower than other cloakings. Beautiful open-work passe jnenteries come by the yard for jackets, and are very-elegant, and are newer than fur. A black astrakhan collar facing is frequently used with them. KAixruGS, counters and shelving., su Haugh & Keexas, 33 & 34 Water si iw 'IsEs&Sh 1 A SSssWtT fell ,ml flit f m?t WKK LIVING AT A MINIMUM. Mrs. Ewlnt Tells How to Have Choice Kara for SI CO a Week She Speaks From Actual Experience Good Food and Good Cooking Are the Two Great Secrets. twarriEK ron Tins dispatch.! N the summer of I887, while in charge of the School of Domestic Economy of the Iowa Agricultural College, I kept a strict account of the food used on our family table from Au gust 10 to September 28 a period of seven weeks. Our family consisted of fonr adult persons, and we used chickens, beef, lamb, eggs, butter, cream, milk, vegetables, melons, grapes, etc., in abundance, and all of the best quality. The cost was exactly ?42 56 a week for the four, or $l CO a week for each person. In 1888, while in charge of the School of Domestic Economy of Purdue University, Indiana, I experimented,- with a family of four adult persons, and the-following was our bill of fare for one week in April: Sunday. Breakfast Oranges, frizzled beef, boned potatoes, mnnins, bread, butter, coffee. Dinner Salsify soup, fried oysters, baked potatoes, lettuce salad, prune pudding, bread, bntter, coffee. Supper Boiled rice with cream, buttered toast, tea. Monday. Breakfast Bananas, broiled flJh. fried potatoes, water cresses, graham mucins, bread, butter, coffee. Dinner Scotch brotb, stewed chicken, mashed turnips, boiled potatoes, stewed peaches, bread, bntter, coffee. Supper Farinose and cream, French rolls, strawberry jam, singer waters, bread, but ter, tea. Tuesday. Breakfast Oranges, creamed odflsh, boiled potatoes, poached eggs on toast, bread, butter, coffee. Dinner Tomato soup, broiled beef steak, mashed potatoes, succotash, bread, bntter, pencb raerinane. Snpper Rolled wheat with cream, corn muffins, bread, butter, tea. Wednesday. Breakfast Omelet, breakfast bacon, stewed potatoes, apple sauce, griddle oakos, bread, butter, coffee. Dinner Pea soup, roast beef, browned po tatoes, scalloped tomatoes, bread, bntter, coffee, snow puddinjr. Snpper Rolled barley with cream, bread, butter, ginger wafers, tea. Thursday. Breakfast Apples, oranges, hash, aora dodeors. bread, bntter. coffee. Dinner Clam soup, roast turkey, cran berry pause, sweet potatoes, bread, bntter, charlotte russo. Supper Cold meat, dipped toast, bread, butter, tea. Friday. Breakfast Teal chops, baked potatoes. rice muffins, bread, butter, marmalade, coffee. Dinner Brown soup, cold roast turkey, potato salad, mnccaroni, baked sour apples, bread, butter, rice pudding. ' Supper Cornmeal mush, toast, bread, but ter, fancy buns, tea. Saturday. Breakfast Oranges, bananas, Hamburg steak, creamed potatoes, cresses, French rolls, bread, butter, coffee. Dinner Vlntosonp.mutton chops broiled, asparagus, potatoes, lettuce salad, bread, butter, caramel cream. Supper Oat meal with cream, cold turkey, graham gems, bread, butter, tea. Wasn't that pretty good fare and a pretty good variety? What do you think it cost? One dollar and seven'.y-five cents each, or 57 for four of us for the week. Most people would think they fared sump hiously if they could get such breakfasts, dinners and suppers. Well, every family in the land can, for a similar sum, have as food abill offarebyjudiciouslyselectingthe est quality of food materials and by skill fully preparing them in the best possible manner. Equally as much, if not more, depends upon the quality of the cooking as upon the quality of the material cooked. And the food that is wasted at the average table,on account of the character of the cooking, costs more than the food that is eaten. -People require a very moderate quantity of food, and when each article served at a meal is well cooked and palat able it is eaten with a relish, nourishes the system and satisfies the appetite. But the Bloppy coffee, the half-baked bread, the' greae-soakcd meats, the soggy vegetables, the sodden pastry and the various other dishes of similar vileness that compose the average breakfast, dinner and supper are bo innutritious, unpalatable and unsatisfi ing that they are merely tasted, and then passed by with disgust, to "find their way into the farbage barrel where such stuff legitimately elongs. Emma P. Ewuro. THS SINKING OF THS ONEIDA. How the Inhumanity of a British Captain Cost a Jolly Ship's Crew. One of the most extraordinary catastro phes that have befallen vessels of the United States Navy destroyed the sloop of war Oneida in 1869. She was bound homeward with a jolly ship's company, eager to see wives and sweethearts and native land once more, when, not far out of port, she was struck by the British steamer Bombay, coming in. The stem of the Bombay cut the stern of the Oneida clear of! and left a gaping chasm into which the water rushed. The ship was sinking rapidly, and gun: of distress were immediately fired; out the Bombay, instead of rendering assistance the disas ter occurred at night steamed on her way, and left the unhappy vessel to meet her doom. She went down presently, and all were drowned but one or two of her crew. The Captain of the Bombay gave no other reason for his cruel conduct than that he had Lady Eyre, the wife of a distinguished British "satrap, on board, and did not wish to disturb her nerves with scenes of ship wreck. He was mobbed when he reached Yokohoma, dismissed from the Bervicejsoci ally tabooed from that time on, and died in disgrace a year or two later. DELECTING A ITTEEE7. Blarlah I'arlo-i Gives Some Directions for the Thanksgiving FoAit. In this country only is the turkey found in a wild state. It is very fitting, therefore, that in the Thanksgiving dinner it should be the principal dish, writes Maria Parloa. The turkey should be short and plump, the meat white, with some fat, the lees black and smooth: and if there be spurs they should be short The end of the breastbone should be flexible, more like gristle than bone. A turkey that is long in proportion to its size, an 1 has dark or bluish flesh, may be tender, but certainly will -not be finely flavored and juicy. A dry-picked turkey will be found to have a much better flavor than a scalded one. All poultry that is dry-picked costs a few cents a pound more than the scalded but it is well worth the extra price. Ice Made by Natural Gas. Philadelphia Record. An inventor in Buffalo, N. Y., has devised a process for making ice by utilizing the intense cold created by the expansion of natural gas when liberated from the high pressure at which it issues from the wells. In the experimental plant the gas is used at its initial pressure ot from ISO to 200 pounds to drive a small engine. After use in the engine the eas exhausts into a closed box, and the expansion generates sufficient cold to form slabs of ice three inches thick to the amount of three-quarters of a ton in a day. It is claimed that the principle can be ap i HYGIENL life plied economically on a large seals, , BOOKS FOR THE CHILDREN. Their Immense Influence In Tormlns; Mental andk Moral Character Fairy Stories for ths Imagination Adventure and Travel The Wife of Ex-Governor Claflin Recalls Her Experience. rWBUTXX VOB THE DISPATCH. OME books were much more interesting to my children than others their characters much more real, than their 'daily fiesh-and-blood playmates. My boy with his eager na ture had absolute de light in "Eobinson Crusoe," "Swiss Fam ily Eobinson" end Jules Verne's hoot, "Around the World in Eighty Days" and "Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea." These books my boy devoured, and all the adventures of their remarkable people were imitated as far as his limited capacity and opportunity would allow, and to this dav, though he is 6 feet and 2 inches high and has a boy of his own, I can seeMn his daily life aud conversation the influence of these stories. I remember once asking him "on a Sabbath morning: "What book are you reading, my son? Is it a proper book to read on the Sabbath?" He rose from his seat and assumed a yery dignified attitude, and said in most Im pressive tones: "Well, I should think It was. It is abont a very excellent Christian family who were cast away on a desert island on Sunday; it is the 'Swiss Family Eobinson.' " Crusoe Versus the Pll?rim. A little friend of his, hearing my boy talk about the exploits of his favorite hero, exclaimed: "How can you like that hum bug, 'Eobinson Crusoe?' I can't bear him. Did you ever hear Tilgrim's Progress?' That is the greatest b)k I ever heard. I tell vou when my mother reads mat dook 10 us children we just hold our breath to hear what happens to Christian. Didn't he have a jolly time, though, when be got -to the Celestial City after his hard journey, and heard the bells ring and saw the angels flapping their wings?" "Oh, bosh I" said the advocate of 'T.ob inson Crusoe." "I like to read about things that happened in this world. Why, I heard a fellow say the other day that ships could go to Eobinson Crusoe's island now, and I mean to go myself some time." A little cousin of my children once re marked, after listening totheirconversation about the books they liked: "I hate to read about good people. I like stories about bad boys that ran away from home, and had awful times, and then grew good and went back to their mothers." Only the other day one of the little girls of a later generation said to her mother who was trying to in terest her in that fascinating book, "Little Lord Eauntleroy," "I don't want to hear that mamma, there is no bad boy in it. I can't be so very, very good, and I don't want to hear about it" Fairy Tales for the Imagination. The early years of one of my little girls were devoted to fairy stories: Thackeray's "The Eose and the King," "Grimm's Fairy Tales," and Miss Muiock's 'The Little Lame Prince." She lived in their ideal world. She talked with the trees and the clouds, and said she never was lonely in her vivified imagination the fairy realm was all about ber. She came in one day from a walk across the lawn, and in great excite ment informed me she had seen a large white bear under the trees, and on another day she had seen a horrid serpent lying across the path, and just as she went gp to it. it turned into a little fairy. A white cat and an earth worm were the realities of these visions. At 8 years of age this same daughter found hex greatest pleasure in books of history and travel. Abbott's little red-covered histories were read over and over again. She was fascinated with all that was striking and picturesque in acconnts of foreign places, and I shall never forget her indignation when she overhetrd some one say that it was a pity Abbott's histories were not al together reliable. She was so grieved and angry that she left the room and I found her a halt hour later cryingby herself, "be-cause'-she said, "I willnot listen to any hody who says those books are not true I believe every word of them, and I never wish to see that man again! Delighted With a EIr Atlas. Her chief diversion was to spread an atlas on a chair and seat herself on a low stool and find the places spoken of, and follow in her imagination (so early and strongly developed by her fairy tale read ing ) .Napoleon in ms campaigns, ana Mane Antoinette through the changeful scenes of her life, and Maria Theresa, and all the rest I remember her announcing to me, after one of these imaginary journeys, that she should visit all those places as soon as she was old enough, and that if she could go in no other wiy she should go as a nurse. Peter Parley's geography and history were a ereat delight to her. She was very fond of little children, and at the immature age of 10 she taught history and geography to a little group ot poor children in the neighborhood. In after years she said: "As I . remember it now, it was very fnnny teaching, but my pupils were entirely satis fied, and so was I at the time." When in later years she took a long for eign journey she "said in one of her letters borne: "The cities I visit do not seem strange to me, they are just as I used to fancy them when I read about them and found them on the map;" and from Eome, she wrote: "Everything was so exactly as I had pictured it, that I can hardly believe I have not seen it all before." The Most Interesting of Books. As I glance backward, and recall those delicious hours, when my children gathered around the evening lamp before a cheerful open fire, in a large country house, and we read together one book .fter another, it is difficult to tell what was the one book which most fascinated them, because always the one in hand was the "most interesting they had ever read." "The Wide, Wide World" and "The La- plighter" never failed in sickness or in health to bold my girls spell-bound and to keep their eyes wide open long after the hour appointed for them to be closed in sleep. My eldest daughter has revealed to me the secret which she kept very closely at the time that "The Schonberg Cotta Family" drew her from her bed at the first dawn of1 day on a freezing winter morning so eager was she to follow the fortunes of that remarkable family. MES. WnilAM Claixet. The Wolf in Sheep's Clothing The poisonous flavoring extracts in the market , are one of the wolves in sheep's clothing which ruin the stomach, causing dyspepsia and blood diseases before the consumers have discovered their true character. The only safety the public has is to buy only "such goods as are well known to be of the finest grade and purest quality. Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts "are just what they purport to be, containing no poisonous oils or ethers which are used in mak ing the cheap extracts. Dr. Price's Vanilla, Lem- ' on, Orange, etc., are made from the true fruit GBACE IU THE STOOP. Tbe; Sorad-TotrngWoman Till - Pick Up Her Own HandkercHief PHYSICAL WRECKS CAFT DO IT. Shirley Dare Says There's a Lot of rTonniiM inTraining to Best. A PEJ DE SIECIE FAD PICKED AP1ET 1WEITTX3 TOE THE PISPATCH.J If there is one precept in the Bible which its preachers need to expound and enforca upon the minds of their hearers it Is that stirring, heavenly war call, "B strong." How many times it is repeated ia the Holy Writ, as if to fix it on our memo ries as a sovereign command for all time. Be strong in fleshly frame as a chaste and well kept body must be, giving the "spirit that -wonderful advantage and propulsion which comes of sound nerve. The strong may be hard, but they are sel dom mean, whereas your weakling must sneak and filch and sponge on others, une eaual to earning bis own share or taking his part of effort Weakness has been cul tivated in women till it goes far to sap ths morals of the race, men being the sons of women and shaping their souls after them. The treatment which developed this weari some species of women began a century and more ago, when the polite world discovered that women, were a different flesh and Wood from men. It was then to a fine woman's credit that she could no more than carry her own handkerchief, though it was still too heavy for her to lift it when dropped, and the superstition still holds more or less. A Test of a Sound Physique. Part of & young lady's fashionable outfit of education is to have muscle enough to look well with short sleeves in eveninar dress that is, she may exercise for physical development, provided she attempts noth ing useful with her strenrth when gained. But the health of the sex will not be estab lished on a sound basis till a woman can stoop, bend and rise without strain or fatigue. The criterion of a woman's sound ness is her ability to stoop and rise without growing flnshed in the face or feeling the effort Coelebs in search of a wife, not de sirous of getting an invalid one, should not be too careful to pick up every trifle his ad mired lets fall, but shrewdly mark now and again how she performs that office for her self, and no movement, not even a court courtesy, shows off the graces of the person or the training of the gentlewoman mora than stooping to pick up something. You should bend at the waist and the knee as if in homage to the floor, keeping the head easily held but not face to floor, in the usual strained posture. With this sort of kneeling bend, recovery Is quick and easy, for the person preserves I1I3 balance. That this inability to stoop, to Dend and move in these positions ia unnatural, fa proved by the habit or half-civilized people to sit in a squatting posture, and to make obeisances which a civilized person attempt ing would most likely complete by falling on his nose. To pass from the half civilized to the most civilized of nations, the Japan ese, whose graces and courtesies pnt Europe and America to the blush, gain incredibla strength of leg and loin by the habit of sit ting on their heels from earliest childhood. The Idea of Training for Best. We are taught exercise nowadays; but a clever woman has evolved a new idea, which will captivate most of ber sex the idea of beint educated how to rest To nse her own words, to be taught "that this strain In ail things, small and great, is something that can be and should be studiously abandoned, with as regular a process of training, from tbe first simple steps to those more complex, as is required in the development of muscu lar strength." Delicious notion thatofgnimr to teachers who will eloquently dissuade us from overstrain and exertion, and first sim ply and then complexly train us how to rest. But one's nerves must be piepared for sur pns.wr statements, beginning with the in formation that "Lxtreme nervous prostra tion is most prevalent. Many are living, one might almost say, in a chronio Btateof'nervons prostration, which lasts for years before the break comes. Further pages tell us that "we fatigue ouiselves in sleep," that "we try to bold ourselves on to the. bed and the head, instead 01 letting the pillow bave its fnll weight, holds itself on to ths pillow" the elegancies of language are not mine. "Women go to bed with knees drawn up, the muscles of the legs tense, the arms and bands contiacted and the fingers clinched, the tongue cleaving to the roof of the mouth, the thro it muscles contracted and the muscles of the lace drawn up one way or another." We "hold ourselves on our chairs," we fatigue ourselves on long Jour neys by "an unconscious officious effort to carry the train instead of allowing the train to carry u-." We "sew with the backs of our necks," wo "use tremendous and unneces sary force in talking," we bold our pens as if somebody was tr ing to puil them away; we listen too hard, we look at pictures too hard, we brace ourselves hard to bear pain. The Cure for Xerve Tension. We are to escape from these enormous and terrific errors by the most remarkable ratiocinations that enter the mind of mortal to conceive. In lifting a heavy weight we are to "relievo the back by pressing hard with the teet upon the floor, and thinking sue power ui lining in tuuicgs. The writer says she has "made nurses practice lilting, while impressing tne fact lorcibly upon them, during tbe process ot raising a body and lowering it, that they must use entirely the muscles of the legs." The anatomist would be charmed to know how this can be effected by the muscles of the legs unless the weight Li attached to ths ankles. The patient desirous of learning; rest development is to lie down on the floor, "giving np entirely to the force of gravity," which most of us bave done from birth without knowing it, "then stop and imagine herself heavy." First thinfe one leg heavy, then the other, then each arm and both arms, being sure to keep tbe same weight in tbe legs, then your body and head. Use your imagination to the full extent of Its power and think the whole machine heavy; wonder bow the floor can sustain suoh weight. Inhale and exhale rhythmically. After tbe deep breathing, drag your leg up slowly, very slowly, try-ng ia have no effort except in the hip Joint and dragging; the heel heavily along tho floor until ths sole tonches tbe g-onnd without effort. Let the leg slip slowly down again. Repeat with the other le?, miking every movement slower each day. After this tbe arms. Decidedly Amusing Becommendatlons. "Be careful to think tho arm heavy and ths motive power in the shoulder. It helps to relax if you imagine your arm held to ths shoulder by a single hair, and if you move it with a force beyond the minimum needed to raiso it, it will drop on. To free tho spins sit up on the floor and let It go back as if the vertebra) were beads on a string, and first one bead lay flat then another and another till tbe bead falls bade with its own weight1 Shiblxt Daei. I 1 A iMJ&aMumaeLJ&Llei&e&Sk.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers