Wfrnmm pi THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH, SUNDAY, AUGUST 23, 1891; 13 - H ft t nFul , Jrtr VSxr r T THE SIDE SADDLE TO GO. Eventually "Women trill Becomo Sensible and Will Hide Astride Tlie Proper Co tnmo for It Gowns and Cnp for an Out ingA Pretty Combing Cape. Efforts have at various times been made to introduce among ladies the fashion of riding astride their horses, in stead of using the less safe, if more picturesque side saddle. Only last summer the pros and cons of the suggestion were ably discussed in many of the lead ing daily papers, but though on the whole, judgment was given in fa vor of the pro posed reform, few, if any.ladies have as yet ven tured so to op pear on horse back, and for the iS-JJazs time being the lime It LooU. new idea sank into abeyance. Nevertheless, the matter keeps cropping up again, and having once obtained a hold on the public mind, it is by no means improbable that the custom of ladies riding astride will become estab lished, even among our civilized selves. The proposed alteration in the feminine rider's position on horseback is mainly based -n the considerations of health and i afctv. says the Season. From far-away old times comes to us a lesrend of the Amazons. whose Queen, Hippolyte, vanquished Her cules, and as the "splendid statue by Kiss shows us, the victorious heroine nt astride her horse. "Vc find the same equestrian position always taken by the women of half civilized nations, the Indians, the Kirghese, the Tartars, etc., and it only seems strance to our unac customed eves. The Mexicans too, as well as the inhabitants of Albania, Romania and remote Austrian provinces find nothing strange or remarkable in their women al ways riding in masculine fashion, liven in Germany it was the general custom, until about the twelfth century, Anna of Luxem burg, wife of Richard I, introduced the English side saddle, which with all its faults, has, with but slight exception been subsequently used by ladies. DEFECTS OF THE SIDE 8ADDL3. To turn to the rider herself. She sits tolerably firm on the side saddle, but" is alwavs more or less dependent upon the temper of herhorse. She can onlr leave the saddle with difii cultv, a drawback. that in case of a fall or btumble, is often attended with ser ious consequences. umy tue leit tnig:i e- the horse's move- N v"" ments, so the riding , v, pensable addition to 111 y her outfit. Consc- ! I are only provided with one spur for all other intricate Straw TtmoSJtanter. inventions such as artificial spurs connected by an electric button to the saddle, or small spurwheel attached to the whip, are but im perfect substitutes for the use of the right loot. Speaking from a hygienic point we are assured by the bestuiedicial authorities, that the straight position across the horse is infinitely better for the health and strength than sitting sidewavs. Further every rider knows the difficulty of getting a well fitting riding habit, how the skirt is torn nnd injured by the spur, and that she is unabla to mount into her side raddle without manly assistance. All these evils would he done away with by the UEe of a gentleman's saddle, nnd a lady would be aide, should she care to do so, to break in her own horse. As for that nchle animal if it bus not suflicicntlv high withers and loins, to keep the side, saddle well in its place, is very apt to slip toward the left side, to the injury of the horse's back, and the rider's discomfort. To this comes the r.ecessary extra lightening of the girths and the higher reins, which ay but doubtfully improved by the addition of a martingale. The horse's movements are likewise influ enced by the seat of a lady. TWO STILES Or COSTITMESQ. Of course the outfit of auvlady, accepting the renewed proposal of riding with a gen tleman's sad d die, must be made to correspond with the laws of propriety, and models nave al ready been giverr fulfiflingcverj-such r e q u i r ement A notable specimen exhibited at the last horse show in Ber lin displayed a young Mexican lady thus equipped. As the costume closely resembled our accompanying illustration we de scribe the latter as fellows. j.na oooicc is ljiade in the usual jacket shape and he loose skirt di vided up the back iiid front, hut so provided with but tons as to be closed at will. Even dur ing a sham r-allrm A l'apu'ar ilanlie. it covers and drapes the rider's limbs and by the most awkward mounting and dis mounting is eauallv decent. Beneath it folds, come tight fitting black tricots, or if preferred wide cloth or velvet trousers. The high boots may be made of either patent, plain, or yellow leather, and either a Inch beaver or round felt bat be worn. Another lady's riding costume, exhibited at the same time, certainly partook of a more virile character. The loose Jacket was made of velveteen, from beneath which came very wide trowsers of the same material, but tight fitting tricots were ' ro vided for wearing underneath them. igh yellow boots encased thefeet and th' unty jockey cap, or rather square P cap adorned the brave Amazon's he 3oth models created a pleasing and mouest im pression. A CAP FOB THE BEACH. The straw Tam O'Shautor shewn above is JJiU V VV fl l I 'A f I i r J : U dm !: m&3&&3&m&' -SS&gSJ to be worn by voting ladies on the beach. The cap is made of rows of white straw pat terned with red. The flat top part, giving the crown and brim, is 13 inches large. The round opening of the band 3J inches broad, set on inside is hound .with a strip of stiff muslin and stiffened with wire covered plain with blue silk. From this start two pieces of wire crossing each other, and fastened to the inner side of the cap part to support the middle of this. Red and blue pompon. Fine dark blue cords are put across the cap and take the place of clastic. Pleated blouse with cravat. The mantle shown above is taken from The Season. Garments partaking alike of the character of dress and mantle are much appreciated by the elegant world, espe cially when enriched with those finishing touches which relieve their otherwise some what austere appearance. In the illustra tion a small bonnet is worn with the mantle, the tiny brim of the same is velvet edged with beads, with point lace butterflies daintily poising upon the back and front This costume is, however, most suitable for rich elderly ladies not intent upon every novelty as soon as it appears. And they are very sensible. "Would that more women wouH adopt the idea of adaptability in dress I "Why is a lace gown worn on a" business thoroughfare out of taste? Because lace does not endure hard usage, and so is in congruouswith the ideas called up by trade. An essential to its perfection is wanting, because it is out of harmony with its sur roundings. "Why are the elaborations of dress out of place in an office? Because the sole object in office is the dispatch of busi ness, and whatever does not help on the ob ject is not in unity with its surroundings is a discord, no matteo how agreeable it may be in itself. Elaborations are in tended to engage the mind, and in the pres ence of more serious occupations are con temptible. It is only when the mind is at leisure that such calls on the eye are in taste. "Why do a bevy of bridesmaids in flounces and flowers never look over orna mented? Because it is their function at the moment to be ornamental. Always it is this principal of use, this law of industrial art, which governs the decision of taste in matters of dress. a teeth: combing cape. This illustration is of a combing cape, described by Harper's Bazar. It is just the thins for the beauty who loves neatness in her boudoir. It is made of white cambric and trimmed with in sertions and ruffles of embroidery. The neck is furnished with a sailor collar. All the ladies now are hammock mad, says the St. Louis JPost-DLipatcli, for the fad is for e xh stay-at-home girl to have a ham mock in her room, where she can idle, rcid and chat with delicious abandon'. "Come over nnd share my hammock this afternoon," is the favorite invita tion of the St. Louis summer girl to her chum, or best girl friend. These hammocks are positive lnx uriesto those ladies compelled to remain in the city. They are of gray, or soft tinted blue, with valance at eacli side of some har monizing material, and do not detract at all from the appearance of the room. -They are ever so much cooler for an afternoon or evening nap than the finest upholstered lounge. In summer ladies who use powder gener ally wipe their faces when heated instead of rubbing them. This is a great mistake. To apply powder properly, in the hot weather, the face should be slightly damp ened and the powder put on deftly. All superfluous dust being removed with a soft baby brush which, when passed over the lace, takes off the particles which cling about the corners of the mouth, nose and to the eve brows and eye lashes. In taking the all prevailing powder puff in the pocket, it should be remembered that the puff must be "dabbed" on the face and not rubbed. There is a decided difference in the applica tion. A PRETTY OUTING COSTTTMH. The accompanying illustration shows a broche silk and crepe de chine costume. J.ne model is of chine light green and white striped taffeta, com bined with light green crepe de chine. The coat basque and the back of the skirt are of taffeta, the front or inner skirt being of crepe de chine, crossed by three open work in sertions. Two simi lar insertions are in the skirt of the coat. A pleated shirt front of crepe de chine with jabot frills is in the front of the coat. Harper's Bazar gives inc patterns lor this costume. The wonderful power of electricity fis at last being di rected to a worthy end. The lighting of Tor an Outing. our streets and public buildings has hitherto been its highest use, but now it takes out wrinkles. Faded beau ties who have watched with apprehension the coining of crowsfeet niay take heart of grace and go toMdme. Evelyn,13 Vigo street, .London. She will smoot'i away all the lines of care with a sponge jeharged with electric ity, and freckles and all other face blemishes go with them. The sensation produced by the sponging is, I am told, extremely pleasant, and acts as a refresher. It must indeed be refreshing to find if you are really very anxious to improve your beauty that even Time's hideous marks can be wiped away. But that this is done by elec tricity, which has given the light so much dreaded by the beauties compelled to seek the shade, is another curious work ing of the law of compensation. If there is one thing that should make u woman have a hopeless tort of feeling, it would be, one would think, scraggy arms, especially now that the long sleeves fashion, which has permitted their concealment, are going out of style, baring the scraggy arm in all its ugliness. But even the scraggy arm can bo cured by the lady. This is a piece of public benefaction compared with which the making of two blades of grass grow where one grew before sinks into in significance. Two Slen of Brain. St. Lonlj Republic On the cog train going to Pike's Peak: Smith This is a novel experience. Brown Yes; we've seen a pike speak. Smith No, because it's the first time we have traveled "in cotj." Wm If If Ira wl$l! ill Mr ii n& :i ii v?n : ft KStPSi ' i Li"! MRjSI ' f-Vl URGING THE STOMACH. Picturesque Salads That Whet the Appetite and Cool the Blood. KECIPES FROM MRS. SHERWOOD. Dishes That Ara Meat Acceptable in the Heated Part of the Tear. SKILL A2JD ECONOMY IN MAE3NQ THEM t WBITTIX pob ths dispatchI Of all the vegetables of which a salad can be made lettuce is the greatest favorite. That lettuce, which is panachee, says the "Almanack des Gourmands" (that is when it has streaked or variegated leaves), is truly "nne salade dedistinction." "We pre fer in this country the fine, crisp, solid lit tle heads, of which the leaves are bright green. The milky juices of the lettuce are soporific, like opium seeds, and predispose the "eater to sleep, or to repose of temper, and to philosophic thought" After (or before) lettuce comes the fra grant celery, always an appetizer. Then the tomato, a noble fruit, as sweet in smell as Araby the Blest, which makes an illus trious salad. Its medicinal virtue is as great as its gastronomical goodness. It is the friend of the well to keep them well, and the friend of the sick to bring them back to the "lost sheep folds of hygeia." There is watercress and dandelion, common .mustard, boiled asparagus and beet root, potato salad, beloved of the Hermans, tne cucumber, most fragrant and delicate of salads, a salad of eggs, of lobster, of chicken, sausages, herrings and sardines. A RECIFE FOR A DRESSING-. Anything that is edible can be made into a salad, and a vegetable mixture ot cold French beans, boiled peas, carrots and po tato, onion, green peppers and cucumber covered with fresh mayonnaise dressing is served ice cold in France, to admiration. To learn to make a salad is the most im portant of qualifications for one who would master the "art of entertaining." Here is a good recipe for the dressing: Two yelks of eegs, a teaspoonfnl of salt and three of mustard (be sure that this is good and not half mastic; it should have bepn mixed with hot water before using), a little cayenne pepper, a spoonful of vine gar, pound the eggs and mix well. Com mon vinegar is preferred by many, but some like Tarragon vinegar better. Stir this gently for a minute, then add two full spoonfuls of best oil of Lucca. "A sage for theinustard, a miser for the vinegar, "a spendthrift for the oil, and a madman to stir," is the old saw. Then add a tcaspoonful of brown sugar, half a dozen little spring onions cut fine, three or four slices ot beet root, the white of the egg, not cut too small, and then the lettuce itself, which should be torn from the head stock by the fingers. HOMELY BUT PALATABLH! An excellent salad of cold boiled potatoes cut into slices about an inch thick may be made with thin slices of fresh beet root and onions cut very thin and very little of them, with the same dressing minus the sugar. Francatelli speaks of a .Russian salad with lobster, a German salad with herrings, and an Italian talad with potatoes. But these come more under the head of the mayon nairses than of the siraplcrjsalads. The cucumber comes next to lettuce as a purely valuable vegtable salad, and is most desirable with fish. Dr. Johnson declared that the best thing you could do with a cucumber, after you had prepared it with much care and thought, was to throw it out of the window; but Dr. Johnson, although he could write Kasselas and a dictionary, knew nothing about the art of entertaining. He was an eater, a glotton. a gourmand, not a gourmet. How should he dare to speak against a encumber .silnd? Endive and chicory should be added to the list of vegetable salads. Neither of them is good, however. An old-fashioned French salad is made thus: "Chop three anchovies, an onion and some paraly small; put them in a bowl with two tablespoonfuls of vineirar, one of oil, a little mustard and salt When well mixed, add some slices of cold roast beef not exceeding two or three inches long. -Make three hours before eat ing. Garnish with parsley." This is by no means a bad way of serving up yesterday's roast beef. ETYMOLOGY OF THE SALAD. The etymology of salad is saidtobe "sal," or "something salted." Shakespeare men tions the salad five or six times. In "Henry "VI.," Jack Cade in his extremity of peril, when hiding from his pursuers in Ida's gar den, says "he has climbed over the wall to see if he could eat grass, or pick a salad," which he says "will-not come amiss to cool man's stomach in the hot weather." In "Anthony and Cleopatra," the passionate Queen speaks of her "salad" days when she was "green in judgment, cool in blood." This means, however, something raw or un ripe. Hamlet uses the word with the more ancient orthography of sallct, and says in his speech to the prayers: "I remember when there were no sallets in these times to make them savory." By this he meant there was nothing piquant in them, no attic salt One author not so illustrious claims that the noblest prerogative of man is that he is a cooking animal, and a salad eater. Of all salads, lobster salad is the most picturesque and benutiful. Its very scarlet is a trumpet tone to appetite. It lies em bedded in green leaves like n magnificent tropical cactus. A good dressing for lob ster is essence of anchovy, mushroom ketchup, hard boiled eggs and a little cream. Mashed potatoes, rubbed down with cream, or simply mixed with vinegar, are no bad substitute for eggs, and impart to the salad a new and not unnleasinir flavor. French beans, the most delicate of vegeta bles, give the salad eater a new sensation. DRESSIKG FOR THE SALAD. A dressing can be mixed in the following proportions: Four mustard ladles of mustard, four salt ladles of salt. Three spoonfuls of best Italian oiL Twelve of vinegar. Three unboiled eggs. Carefully rubbed together, this is for those who like sours and not sweets. A cod mayonnaise is a good dish. Boil a large cod in the morning. Let it cool; then remove the skin and bones. For sauce put some thick cream in a porcelain saucepan and thicken it with corn flour which has been mixed with cold water. When it be gins to boil stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. As it cools beat it w ell to prevent it being lumpy, and when nearly cold stir in the juice ot two lemmons, a little Tarragon vinegar, a pinch of salt and a soupcon of cayenne pepper. Peel and slice some very ripe tomatoes or cold potatoes, steep them in vinegar with cayenne, pounded ginger and plenty of salt Lay these around the fish and cover with cream sauce. The toma toes and potatoes should be carefully drained before they are placed around the fislu A salmon covered with a green sauce is a famous dish for a ball supper; ana, in deed, there are are 30 or 40 salads with a cold fish foundation. THE COUNTRY DINXER. The large family of salads help to make the country dinner delightful. Given a clear beef soup, a slice of fresh broiled salmon, with a cucumber, a bit of spring lamb and mint sauce, some green peas and fresh pota toes with a bit of onion, and you have a din ner for Brillat Savarin; or vary it with a boiled chicken with egg sauce and a "Jar diniere" or vegetable salad, made of peas, beans, cold potatoes, cauliflower, fresh beets and green peppers simply treated to a bath of vinegar, iresh oil and pepper and salt These vegetables saved from the dinner of the day before and put away cold make, a delightful salad. This art of dressing cold vegetables with pepper, salt, oil and vinegar should be Btudied. In France they give you these salads to perfection; at the dejeuner a la fourchette. In fact, Fillippini, of DelmAi co's, in his admirable work,"' 'The Table," adds these; Suediosa salad, string bean salad, Eussian salad, salad Macedoine, esca rolle, doucette, dandelion a la coutoise, baib de capucine, cauliflower salad and salad a L'ltalian. Indeed, I advise any young housekeeper to buy this book of his, as sug gestive. It is too elaborate and learned, however, for practical application to any household excepting where one keeps a French cook. A MAYOiraAISE DRESSING. A mayonnaise dressing is a triumph of art when well made. A tablespoonful of mustard, one teaspoonfnl of salt, the yolks of three uncooked eggs, the juice of half a lemon, a quarter of a'cupful of.butter, a pint of oil and a cupful of whipped cream. Beat the yolks and dry ingredients until they are very light with a wooden spoon or with a wire heater. The bowl in which the dressing is being made should be set in a pan of ice water. Add a lew drops of oil at a time until the dressing becomes thick and rather hard. After it has reached this stato the oil can be added more rapidly. "When it gets so thick as to be difficult to beat add a little vinegar then add the juice of the lemon 'and the whipped cream and place on ice until desired to be used. Another dressing can be made more quickly. The yolk of a raw egg, a table spoonful of mixed mustard, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, six tablespoonfuls of oil. Stir the yolk, mustard and salt together with a fork until they begin to thicken; add the oil gradually, stirring all the time. An ex cellent salad dressing is also made by using the yolk of hard-boiled cess, some cold mashed potatoes, well pressed together with a fork, oil, vinegar, mustard and salt rubbed in, in the proportions of two of oil to one of vinegar. CARE EXERCISED IN FRANCE. A salad must be fresh and freshly made to he good. The chief employment of a kitchen maid in France, where a man cook is kept, is to wash the vegetables; and you see her swinging the salad in a wire safe after wash ing it delicately in fresh water. The care bestowed on these minor morals of cookery, such as that salad, which must not be handled roughly, adds the finishing touch to the excellence of a French dinner. For a green mayonnaise dressing so much admired on salmon, nse a little chopped spinach and finely chopped parsley. The juice from boiled beets can be used to make a fine red dressing. Two of these dishes will make a plain country lunch table very nice and will have an appetizing effeot on the eaters, as has anything that betokens care, forethought, neatness and taste. Some people cannot ent oil. It is often that the best oil cannot be bought in a retired and rural neichborhood. But an excellent sub stitute is fresh butter or clarified ehicken fat, very carefully prepared, and icy cold. The yelks of four raw eggs, one tablespoon ful of salt, one of mustard, the juice of a lemon and a speck of cavenne pepper should be used. Two drops of onion juice or a bit of onion sliced will add great piquancy to salad dressing, if one likes onions. ASPARAGUS AND CAULIFLOWEB. Asparagus is so good in itself that it seems a shame to dress it as a salad; yet, it is very good eaten with oil, vinegar and salt Cauliflower, cold, is delicious as a salad, and can be made very ornamental with a garniture of beet root, which is a good ingredient for a salad of salt codfish boiled. Sardine salads are very ap.petizing for lunch. Arrange a cold salmon or cod fish on a bed of lettuce. Slit six sardines, remove the bones and mix them into the dressing. Garnish the whole dish with sar dines, and cover with the dressing. A housekeeper who has conquered the salad question is to be envied. She can al ways add to the plainest dinner a desirable dish. She can feed the hungry, and she can stimulate the most jaded fancy of the over fastidious gourmet, by these delicate and consummate luxuries. Sydney Smith's Recipe for s Salad. To make this condiment your poet begs The pounded yellow of two hard-boiled eggs, Two boiled potatoes, passed through kltohen sievo Smoothness and softness to the salad give. Let onion atoms wink within tho bowl And half suspected, animate tho whole; Of mordant mustard add a single spoon, (Distrust the condiment that bites too Boon), But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault, To add a double quantity of salt Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, And twice with vinegar prooured from town, . And lastly, o'er the favored oompound toss A maeic sounscon"of anchow snnrn O! green and glorious! O! herbaceous treat 'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eatl Back to the world would turn his fleeting soul. To plungo his linger in a salad bowlt Serenely full, the epicure would say. Fate cannot harm me, I have dined to day. For a Lobster Salad. Take, take lobsters and lettuces, Mind that they send you the fish that you order; Take, take a decent-sized salad bowl. One that's sufficiently deep In the border; Cut into many a slice, All of the fish that's nice. Place in tho bowl with duo neatness and order. Then hard-boiled eggs you may Add in a neat array. All toward the bowl, Just by way of a border. Take from the cellar of salt a proportion. Take fiom the castors both pepper and oil TVith vinegar, too but a moderate portion, Too much of acid your salad will spoil; Mix them together, You need notmind whether Tou blend them exactly in apple-pie order, But when you've stined away. Mix up the whole you may, aii duc tne eggs wnicn are used as a border. Take, take plenty of seasoning; A teaspoonfnl of parsley that's chopped In small pieces Though, though the point will bear reason ing, A small taste of onion tho flavor Increases. As tho sance curdle may. Should it, the process stay. Patiently do it again in good order, For if you chance to spoil Vinegar, eggs and oil, Still to proceed would on lunacy border. M. E. W. Sherwood. TEE CHAUTAUQUA EEFOBM IDEA, It Will Fall Because Sentiment Cannot Bo rormed by Legislation. If we understood in the least, says Ada Bache Cone, a popular fashion writer, the demands which taste makes on dress we should not now be agitating the question of a proper dress for business women. Anal ogy ought to teach us that the. dress suited to a particular kind of labor must be evolved, nnd cannot be adopted or imposed. The bloomer costume tailed because it was offered for adoption to women who had no use for it It was not for itself that it was ridiculed, but because it was incongruous with the habits of life of those for whom it was designed. "When an unusual garment harmonizes with its environment it is fol lowed by no ridicule; a woman on a battle field in a soldier's dress would not be laughed at People laugh when they per ceive an incongruity. You cannot adopt abusiness woman's dress by act of convention or recommendation of committee. If you do, no one but a crank here and there will wear it. Such proceed ing is on a par with that enlightenment which would vote for a national flower as if all tne sentiment in the idea must not come from the flower having grown out of the old root oi some nationaljteeling that is to say, some racial tradition, which ground for sproutiug we have not yet ploughed. In these matters sentiment must pronounce first, and intelligence coming after may ap prove, but you cannot produce sentiment by vote. This subject is misapprehended by so many intelligent people that I should rein force my assertion and will quote Carlyle. Speaking of the constitution which the Con stituent 'Assembly framed for adoption by the French people. Carlyle says: 'Ihe set of laws or prescribed habits of acting that men will live under, is the one which images their convictions. Other laws, ready made, are usurpation, which men do notobcy, but rebel against and abolish at tueir earnest convenience. ' ( MANY NEW FABRICS. Importers Have a Greater Variety for Decorations Than Ever. THE NEW STYLES IK CURTAINS. McKinley's Tariff Lair Starts Up Two New American Industries. HANGING SHADES -FOR THE BOUDOIR IraoM tux urdbLSTEBiB.1 It was a great month last month for the decorative trades of America. The import ers showed all their new fabrics from the European and American workshops, and the immense variety was something bewildering to the eye of the average man, who in a vague way, supposes that there are two kinds of lace curtains, Kottinghams for the poor and Brussels for the rich. Muslin covers and bed sets are being brought out embroidered in white, red and blue cord like figures. These sets include curtains, spreads, pillow shams, bed lambrequins, bureau scarfs, tidies and mats. A novel thing introduced recently, in lace curtains, is Brussels of an amber hue, the embroider ing being done in rich brown silk. This is decidedly different from the ordinary Brus sels with net and white embroidering. A novel thing in portieres is made on the order of the Japanese bead or reed portieres. It consists of long silk cords, upon which are strung round or oval moles, overthrown with silk and arranged on the cords in a manner to form designs, letters or figures. "We saw the other day an exceedingly good thing in wall paper frieze. The design showed a shelf effect with a little colonial railing about it, relieved here and there by a realistic figure or placque pattern on the Top Fitted With Brass Work. shelf. This comes in an 18 inch wide frieze and in a variety ot colorings, so that it could be applied to almost any wall paper, noth ing is more unsightly than the gaping re cess beneath the bed. In some houses they drape the bed clothes down to the floor, but this is not always practical. A clever ar rangement can be accomplished by looping along upon a curtain rod, beneath the Ded, any light fabric like a cotton pongee. PRINCIPLES OF DECOEATIOW. The great trouble with folks is that when they attempt to arrange the moveable arti cles of a room the bric-a-brac, pictures and such things they don't know what they are after. They don't understand what I may he permitted to designate the theory of arrangement; and results are consequently haphazard sometimes good and sometimes bad. Now, the human face preserves cer tain defined rules of expression that can be literally followed in matters of house dec- oration. Thus: "When the lines which form the mouth and eyes remain parallel with the lines of the nose, then the face is in what I should call repose; when the lines are lengthened to form downward angles, the face expresses joy; when lengthened to form upward angles, grief is depicted. Apply these principles to your homo surroundings and the expression will be the same. Straight lines, as well as curved lines, produce the effect of solidity, durability and support. This is a constructed axiom, accepted from the earliest ages. On this principle wains cotings, doors and mantels are built in straight and curved lines. But it would be manifestly wrong to furnish a mantel with ornaments whose tops or proportions would give a rounding or straight effect, unless you desire such a room to be stiff and rjrini. The poplar tree, with its up-shooting branches forming down-pointing angles, has a look of cheerfulness about it, while the willow, with its drooping branches forming up-turning angles, produces quite an oppo site effect, and in all countries typifies mourning aud sadness. If, in the putting up of decorations, we see to it that lines from the tops of the different objects with which we are to decorate a mantel form angles pointing downward, then the effect produced will be cheerful. If the points of the article point upward, the effect will he- opposite. FOREIGN STTTE IN THE 'WHITE HOUSE. It has been announced officially, or as officially as such a thing is possible, that everything of a decorative character which goes into the "White House from now on would be of American manufacture, and it seems a pity that with this very laudable and patriotic annunciation the designs should have to be all foreign. Everything in the "White House decorations are Louis XV., Louis XV.. Colonial or Adam, the A Hovel Curtain Hanging. latter not being a style, as the Washington correspondents have announced, closely re lated to John Quincy Adams, but the fancy of a British workman of 100 years back. There is nothing so confusing as the selec tion of colors for a room or a hat, for that matter. In things decorative and what thing is not decorative nowadays, when our wives, our daughters and our summer girl are afiuff and breezy in colors and bows (spell it right). "We have a room with red as a prevailing color, and we are puzzled to know what are the combining influences. There is no scheme devised as yet to definite ly dictate color combinations, so the nearest thing we can do is to suggest that amber, cream and blue, or silver, lavender and emerald are happy harmonies, and if you are quick enough to see in your mind's eye the exact shading that would look w ell we will go ahead and give you some more: Amber Leaf-green Dark-green Cieam I'uce (deep) Violet Blue (medium) Kose-gray Salmon Amber Blue (pale) Crimson JTlosh-red Bine (normal Olive-green Terra-ootta Maroon Sage-green Apricot Crimson Gold-brown Maroon Bed (normal) Bronre-yellow Gold 01'e-green(d'k)BlUB (normal) Brick-red Blnish-green Lavender Indigo Violet Turquoise Sea-green Bed-ochre Blue (deep) NOVEL "WAT TO BANG A CUBTAIN. Every woman, when she wishes to dress, knows now convenient it would be if she only had a window shade that would some- WJkM Q War '' f; '' ing. times screen the bottom part of a window and admit at the same time a full flood of light at the top, specially if her tyureau glass may be near the window; foi) if she jjuub uown tne snaae wnen aressiuj;, hud shuts off a quite' necessary light Then again, if of an evening, when the room is heated by the lights, one attempts to let in air by lowering the top window, the wind blows the window shade in all directions. If they let the shade go np to the top of the window, they admit the neighborhood to their privacy. These needs have been met at various times by the arrangement of a roller which may be fastened along guide ropes or tracks upon which it travels, at auy point from the top to the. bottom of a window casement But the simplest way you can possibly arrange a shade is the way we illustrate: The shade is not tacked to the roller, which is usually the case, but is provided at the top with a bar of sheet iron as thin as the average cardboard and one-eighth of an EaUlng the Curtain. inch wide, running the full width of the shade; cut two lengths of tape, each a half inch wide and four feet long; tack one end of one piece of tape to the extreme left of the wooden roller and carry it down on a slight angle and fasten to the top of tho shade to this thin, firm top bar at a point about five inches from the left-hand side. Adjust the other tope by a tack at the ex treme ritrht-hand of the roller and carrv it to the shade bar below slightly inclined to the. leit, stnjcing the bar as with the lett-hand tape about four inches from the end. The shade is thus suspended a yard or so from the roller. "When the roller revolves it turns the tape about it, preserving a paral lel spiral arrangement which distributes the tape evenly about the roller when the shade is drawn up. If properly attached to the shade there is nothing objectionable in its appearance. The tape should be of the color of the roller, and the roller should be stained nnd varnished as neatly as a curtain pole. IT BEATS AN ALARM CLOCK. The other day we heard a truthful man tell of a bed that is worth a dozen alarm clocks. It worked by machinery. You go to bed, set the movement at 6 o'clock, and at o snarp, rollers irom underneath do a lively massage movement and undulate the mattress like a ship in a chop sea, This thing is kept up for a minute, and then the bed firmly ascends, and if you are not awakened by the bumpers in the massage aot, you will surely be wide awake when deposited on your head and slowly asphyxi ated. For years and years we have been hang ing curtains over poles, fixed at the top of a window or brackets. A olever scheme now is to put the pole about a foot below the top of the window and fill in the corners with brass work. Two events of great industrial importance happened last month. First, the organiza tion of a factory to make Brussels lace cur tain in Philadelphia, the first factory of the kind ever started in America. Second, the establishment of a mill in Camden, 2T. J., to make Tambour curtains, like those man ufactured in Switzerland This industry has never heretofore been done in America. Both industries are the direct result of tariff legislation, which placed a protective duty upon these goods. BLAINE'S FLOEENCE DOCTOB. Something About the Man Mode Famous by Newspaper Comment The American doctor from Florence, Italy, who treated Blaine while the latter was in Italy, has created quite a stir in America. In appearance Dr. "William "Wilberforce Baldwin is most prepossessing, having a finely shaped head and bearing in his countenance the marks of a strong char acter. His eyes are dark and piercing, and you feel at the instant of meeting him his wonderful intuition, his firmness and alert ness. . The man commands at once your respect and admiration, and you recognize also his common sense and tact. As a physician his skill is unquestioned, and during his vaca tions, instead of taking the rest he so much needs, he goes to the hospitals in Vienna and London and keeps up with every new thought in the medical; world. "With an immense practice, he is a very busy man, and rises at 6 o'clock, or often earlier, every morning. His friends in Florence say that he is generally so ab sorbed in the contents of some medical jour nal as he goes his daily rounds that they seldom have a bow of- recognition; in fact. hehas anything but a dolce far niente existence, and Tiis services are in great demand not only by the American tourists aud residents In the fair city on the Arno, but by the English and Italian aris tocrats. It may be remembered that several years ago Mrs. Astor was dangerously ill in Florence so ill that her life was despaired of. All the skill of the English and Italian doctors availed nought, and she was rapid ly sinking, when some one suggested that the young American physician, Dr. Baldwin, be called. This was done, with most happy results, and ever since that time Dr. Baldwin has been a personal friend of the Astor family. He wears, with just pride, a most valnable pear shaped pearl scarf pin presented to him by Mr. Astor. It is a rare and costlv gem and greatly admired. Dr. Baldwin also counts among his friends the Duchess of Teck, cousin of Queen Victoria, and he has several times been invited to visit the Teck family at their home. STOKEBS OF AN OCEAN EACEB. Awful Flctnre to Be Witnessed In the Depths of the Great Vessels. New York World. In the stoke room, under the splintering silver of the electric lamp cones of light illuminate great spaces garishly, and leave others in unbroken masses of shadow. Through bulkhead doors the red and gold of the furnaces checker the reeking floor,and the tremulous roar of the caged fires dominates the sibilant splutter of the steam. Figures, nearly naked, gritty and black with coal, and pasty with ashes, and soaked with sweatj come and go in the blazing light and in half gloom, and seem like nightmares from fantastic tales of demonolgy. "When the furnace doors are opened thirsty tongues of fire gush out, blue spirals of gas spit and reel over the bubbling mass of fuel and great sheets of flame suck half burnt carbon over the quivering fire wall into the flues. "With averted heads and smoking bodies the stokers shoot their slice bars through the melting hillocks and twist and turn them until they undulate like ser pents. The iron tools blister their hands. the roaring furnaces sear their bodies, their chests heave like those of spent swimmers, their eyes tingle in parched sockets but work they must, tncre is no escape, no holi day in this maddening limbo. 'Steam must be kept up and a cruel record must be low ered. GILMOBE'S LATEST IMPOSITION. A Prediction That He' Will Give the Street Arabs Another Tune to Whistle. St. Louis Globe-Democrat. This fall the street boy and the amateur musician will revel in a brand new tune. Gilmore has the reputation of being the best public musical taste creator the world has ever seen, and the way he inflicted "Where Did You Get That Hat?" on an unoffending population will never be for gotten. This year he has in practice the Latchkey March," a new French importa tion, with the most fascinating airs in it, and this is almost certain to be his stock encore piece this Exposition. It is a very remarkable production, with great variations in time and tone, and after playing it or listening to it a few times the desire to whistle the air is overpower 1 ffflffl MEN SERVANTS TO GO. Pretty Maids Are Taking the Place of the Liveried Stoics IS FASHIONABLE HOUSEHOLDS. Some Hints for Home Decoration and tne Berring" of Dinners. FEUIT DISHES MADE OP IOE BLOCKS WaiTim FOB THE DISPATCH. Almost as great a movement is progress ing in England, in the slow and conserva tive fashion of most movements over there, as is the dress reform crusade which is gath ering force for its concerted effort on this side the Atlantic It is the abolition of elaborate livery for men servants. For generations the flunky in padded calves, powdered wig and silk small clothes has been the correct adjunct to all well reg ulated households of the upper class, and his number in each household has been in proportion to the importance and wealth of the family. And not only is the gay livery going the men themselves are being put aside in favor of women. Many good fam ilies have entirely given up employing men servants, and have parlor and waiting maids in their stead. These wear a distinctive livery, one lady putting her women in plain gowns of gray, with red aprons, and courier bags worn at the side; red caps made like the white ones were also worn. Another woman preserves the dark green of her men's liveries for the maids, with red caps and aprons. These are donned after 12 o'clock when the heavier work of the day, cleaning, stc., should be over. For morning wear, black dresses with white aprons and caps are used. Already the fashion has crept over to Hew York, and last winter several handsome establishments had maids in livery as door openers. "Wait resses have long been regarded with favor by dinner givers, except where much wine is served, when a well-trained butler is more satisfactory. ""When I am going to arrive anywhere," confides a clever young woman, "I always try to buy a bunch of flowers in the station after leaving the train. These I thrust into my belt or corsage and feel that my toilet is much freshened. It is wonderful how great a difference this small thing will make, quite taking away the jaded look from one's face and the mussy look from one's gown." The same young woman fur ther says: "Never wash your face in cold water to remove travel soil; it seems only to grind the dust in. I always use a little cold cream or vaseline, first wiping it off with a soft cloth, and afterward plenty of hot water." A pretty toilet set seen at a fair recently was of yellow silk covered with black lace, the pattern being a pin dot at not very close intervals in a fine mesh. The set con sisted of the scarf for bureau or dressing table and the cushion cover. Around the edge of each was a scant ruffle of yellow silk, pinked out and over this fell a black lace edging matching the center in design. Pull bunch bows of yellow baby ribbon were on one end pf the scarf and at one side of the cushion. Another set had this ar rangement reversed, gold colored lace being put over black silk, with the difference that there were no bows and on the edges of scarf and cushion cover was a deep fringe ' of gold baby ribbon put in loops close to gether. It is English, if that is any recommenda tion to the young housekeeper, not to have both dado and frieze on your walls. As each has grown wider, the average wall be comes a mere strip when both are used. It is a gaod plan to use the dado in halls, dining rooms and bedrooms, reserving the ineze lor reception ana drawing rooms. As to colors, Mr. Russell's ideas are to some extent picturesque, if not actually senti mental. They are also artistic and valua ble. The wall of a family room, in his opinion, should be becoming to the mem bers of the household. "One in flesh pink," he says for instance, "with a little green added, makes a dull complexion seem clearer and brighter." The ardent hue of red, he thinks, ought to be in halls where friends are welcomed, while the cold blue tint is better suited to the formality and re serve of the drawing room. Yellow, which is pleasurable to gayety, he would use in the dining room, audit maybe added that this orignt tint is most serviceame in any dark room, as it is the best possible substi tute for nature's sunshine which art knows. To have an artistic home, be it ever so sim ple, is nowadays within everybody's reach To quote Mr. Russell once more, "Form is expensive, texture is expensive, but color is cheap," and it is color which makes the effect Every woman wants acheral glass but not every woman thinks she can afford it One can be procured, however, with very little expense beyond the actual mirror. Go to a furniture manufacturer and select your glass unframed. Then get him to make and mount a frame to fit it, in some cheap un finished wood and send the mirror and standard home to you detached. Cover the frame with a puff of pretty cretonne or ma terial to match some hangings or furnish ings of your room and paint the plain wood standard, using a white enamel paint. A second coat of paint with a little sizing af terwards secures the best appsarancc, but even one coat on the smooth wood will look very well. "When your work is done get any corner cabinet maker to come in and set the glass and you will be delighted with the Tesult of your effort and expenditure. The prettiest shape is a large one although a parallellogram with covered top is often seen. If preferred, of course, both frame and standard may be stained in any wood stain or ehonized to suit individual taste. A mat used to lay on a polished table between meals is of tan suede, oval, round or square to match the table. An outline pattern is worked in scarlet picked out with fold thread, a center being left for the rose owl, which is kept filled with flowers. The bal blanc or white ball recently given at a Saratoga hotel was a considerable success, although not to the extent of the "color" balls of European fashionable re sorts of which it was a cony. At Nice, in particular, the color balls are very hand some functions. They are usually held under private auspices, which always secures a better result, and, moreover, across the water the active and enthusiastic co-operation of the cavaliers in the matter of dres3 is readily obtained. Bed, white and gold are the favorite colors for the French balls, and one which attracted much attention and is still talkedabout wasa "black ball," at which white flowers and white shirts for the men were the only relief. A "red" ball is particularly brilliant as the hang ings, flowers, gowns for the women, all accessories, so tar as possible, are red. The men", over in Nice, at least, wear red satin coats, white silk knee breeches and red silk stockings. At a bal blanc over there, even the beaux powder their hair to continue the white effect A lovely and inexpensive room recently fitted for the daughter of the home had ceiling and walls finished in cream white. A dado of wild rose cretonne runs around the room, and the curtains, divan and cush ions, two portieres and bed canopy and bal ance are of the same material. The window curtaisn are shirred on the poles and fall over sheer muslin ones with a frill and tied back under the straight ones with pink rib bons. The two or three single pictures, photo-gravures, wifh one etching, are in white frames and hang by pink ribbons in lien of wire or cord. A carpet rug which has wild roses over a cream ground covers the floor, and'one deep window seat has cushions of soft silver green corduroy that tones admirably with the prevailing" pink. The hollowed out blocks of ice which formerly held the raw oysters of the dinner course now appear as supporters of fruits at luncheon and second breakfasts. At a re cent luncheon one at each end of the table held respectively hot house grapes and pears, and peaches. They stood in oblong shallow tins, several sizes longer and wider, and these tins were painted green and hid den in moss into which ferns were plenti fully thrust, producing a beautiful effect of crystal imbedded in greens. A more artistio fruit dish could scarcely be devised. Mabgabkt H. "Welch. JUICE OF THE GRAPE. How the Thrifty Bonsekoeper Makes TTlna for Family Use Serving the Fruit on the Table Answer to a Correspondent and Ueusehold Bints. WBITTEN FOB THE DISPATCH. Bacchus, in the Greek myth, having taught mortals the use of the grape in mak ing wine was raised to the rank of a God; since which time in the dawning of the world the grape has not lost prestige. In these days it is regarded the finest of fruits and figuratively and very appropriately is it called "the queen" and sometimes "the aristocrat of the garden." "When it'is ripe and in perfection it is a nutritive and wholesome food, it is really a specific for certain ailments, und in some districts of Europe and the United States special arrangements are made for treat ment under the method of the grape cure. The regimen is very simple, and for the most part consists of an exclusive diet of grapes. And there appears to be no doubt that many have realized much benefit from the dietary prescribed. It has been ob served and commented on that the work ingmen about the vineyards in France at the time of the vintage are habitually con tent to satisfy their appetite at breakfast with a few bunches of grapes nnd a slice of plain bread. On such diet their vigor is not abated, but on the contrary they are noticeably a hardy, ruddy, and full-blooded race. "When it is possible, serve grapes with the "bloom" or feathery coating on them, for served in this manner they are doubly attractive. Such varieties as the Tokay, Malaga and Hamburg should be well rinsed in ice water. Arrange a napkin neatly on a fruit dish, strew with crushed ice, and on It place the grapes cut in small bunches. For gall occasions take grapes of different colors, separate into smaller bunches and tie with bright, narrow ribbon. Serve with quartered oranges, the segments lightly pulled apart Grape "Wine. Excellent wine is made after the following recipe, which has been well tested. Take four pans holding four quarts each hcapinjj full of grapesjjam them with apounderand put them away in a crock. Let them stand 10 or 12 days, then strain them through a a cloth. To three quarts of Juice add one quart of water and three pounds of sugar. Kinse the cask or jug to hold it with brandy. Four in wine until the vessel is full. Tie a muslin bag over the bung or mouth and let It stand two weeks. Bung unandlet stand un til February or Mnreh. Then bottle and seal. This recipe will make three gallons of wine. Answer to a Correspondent. In answer to Berth Bell's inquiries I hope the following will be satisfactory: The apple compote referred to may be kept for winter use by putting Into Jars or cans and sealing while hot. Mason jars that cannot be made air-tight are unsafe for pre serving fruits unless the fruits are reduced to a strong jam, butter or preserve. An ex cellent preservative and preventative of mould Is cotton batting-n rather thick layer to he placed over fruits (put up in any way) before sealing. reach Batter. InMpid peaches, unfit for other purposes, with a little skill, much sugar and a variety of spices are sometimes made into a tolera bly fair butter. To have It choice, however, peaches of fine flavor, sound and ripe,' neither too mealy nor too lufcy should do used. To one bushel allow from eight to ten pounds of granulated sugar. Dip the peaches for a minute or two into boiling water, then into a cold bath. After this process ths skhw are easily rubbed off. Pare and halve the peaches, put into the kettle and stir constantly, to prevent sticking to the kettle, until quite smooth and pretty thick. A few peach stones cooked with the peaches give the butter a good flavor. The sugar may be put in a short time before taking the peaches from the Are. Put in jars and cover well. Fears for Dessert Take firm, ripe fruit and for every pound allow three-quarters of a pound of white sugar. Imm3rse the pears for an Instant in boiling water to make them peal more readi ly and without waste. After paring, halve, core.remove stems and drop into cold water to prevent discoloring, foil until tender In clear water,and then drop them intoa syrup, allowing less than a quart of the water in which the frnit was boiled to the quantity of sugar here given. After the sucar is dis solved the syrup should boil about five min utes boforo adding the fruit. After the fruit has reached the boiling point, lift carefully into the Jars and cover with the syrup. Seal at once. Bed Tomato Preserves. "Weigh the tomatoes and remove the skins. To three pounds of tomatoes take the same quantity of white sngar. Let them stand together until the next day; then drain off the syrup, and boll it nntil the scum oeases to ri-e. Put in the tomatoes, simmer them slowly for twenty minutes; take them out with a perforated ladlo and lav them on a dish. Boil the syrup until it thickens, then add the juice of a large lemon, and if desired a few peach leaves, and half an ounce of powdered ginger (tied up in bags). Put ths tomatoes into jars, coverwith the hot syrup and seal at once. Orange Marmalade. Take a dozen and a half of fine rips oranges. Grate the peel lightly off four of these, or scrape them with a very sharp knife. The rinds of the others may be re jected. Fare the fruit carefully, removing the inner white skin as well as the yellow. Cut the oranges into the thinnest slices; re move the sced-i. Put the frnit and grated peel into the kettle, and boil steadily until the pulp is reduced to a smooth mass. Take from tho flre, press through a colander and stir in six pounds of best white sugar. Ee turn to the flre, boil rapidly, and stir con stantly for 3) minutes or until thick. Put in tumblers, and when cold store away covered In the usual manner. Peach Marmalade. Ono of the choicest marmalades Is mads from peaches. Pare, stone and weigh the fruit; and allow three-quartets of a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Put ths fruit on the lire and beat slowly to draw out tho Juice, stirring np frequently from the bottom. After it is hot boil quickly three quarters ot an hour, stirring all the time. Add the sugar, boil five minutes, and re move the scum. Add the juice of a lemon for every three pounds of sugar, and ths water in which one-fonrth of the peach kernels have been boiled. Stew all together ten minutes, stirring to a smooth paste, and remove from tho flre. When cold cover ths tumblers or jars the same as Jelly. Household Hints. Drt toast should be served hot. Butter the moment It comes from the oven and lay within the folds of a napkin. Send to ths table at once. Fob drying glass anl china nothing la better than checked linen toweling. For the kitchen use twilled linen. VE0ETABtE3 should be thoroughly cleaned and washed. Throw aside every tainted leaf, remove every speck. lVsct juices are not to be extracted, but preserved in vegetables, use hard water with a little salt added. Ix fruit season when the hands become stained, cut a lemon In halves and apply a if it were soap. To fasten labels to fruit cans securely add one tablespoonful of brown sugar to a quart of paste. Tub herbs used for flavoring salads ars tarragon, chives, chervil, balm, mint, eta. Gbeast dishes and kettles wash ranch, better if first rubbed oat with paper. It the flre is In- proper condition It takes but four minutes to make an omelet Gooo lard should be white and solid and without disagreeable smell. Ix carving a wild duck the breast should draw drops of rosy gravy. ElXICZ SEBXX4. I a
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers