THE LATEST FASHIONS. Designs In Hats, Drr.se. and Wrap. That nave Jut Been Approved In Paris and Ion Jon A Proper Bridemald Fan cies For TVomen. For those who care for quantity as well quality in hats the one illustrated herewith tory. The Album des Mode of Paris thus describes it: The hat is of black tnlle trimmed with itl.W rr. . y . j, ------- with roses ana oiacu ostrich feathers. The Jr bnm waves capri-'f- S: ciously: it is triin- 5-5! f me w'tb bounce Vt2 of black lace, fall- the garland laid under near the hair. The top of Movnd Lace Sat. crovrnisalsoadorncd with a wreaih of roses upon which Jails the black lace mixe-i with loops of black velvet. Speaking of the latest hats displayed in London show windows, Miss Mantilini, of PaU JJaU Budget says: Soma of the hats were really bewitchmg, especially those with wide briins decorated with roses. The mixture of gauze and wings is piquant and decidedly French. One has a jet brim and a crown of open-work straw, trimmed with a clump of moss and some wild flowers. Another is of Tuscan straw with a wreath of piuk roses under the brim, and a bunch of the same flowers and some foliage oa Un crown. There are very few milliners wh keep old ladies' bonnetfc, the demand for such things is so smalL I saw two or three bonnets, how ever, that would be becoming to any grandmother over 60. They were composed of black lace, jet beads, and gold passementerie, and were large enough to come well over the hair at the sides. One bonnet had a wreath of pink roses round the crown veiled by a soft drapery of black lace and wide lace strings. A FIJETTY SILK TVBAP. The close-Stting silk wrap, with long tabs on the front is becoming for nearly every one. It is trimmed with a passementerie adorned with beads on the top and on the low er part. The sides and the back with long basques are also embroidered at the lower part. The wide pointed sleeves, well puffed np, are entirely em broidered. Under these sleeves,another of handsome lace comes out gracefully It is adorned with'a watered silk ribbon tied below the. el bow. At the neck Is also a large moire ribbon with lone loops and ends fall ing quite adistanco below the waist line. There i a certain pretty belle, savs a writer in St. Louis Post-Dispatch, who, when she appeared among the rosebuds of society was consid ered very handsome and stylish save for a deiective" nose. With the Eoft brown hair, big dark eyes and decidedly pretty mouth, the "pu nose" was most distressingly pro nounced. Last week I met this very girl, whom I had not seen for months, and my eyes grew wide at the transtormation that had taken' place in her face. The eyes, the mouth, the matchless skin were all there, but thepuve was gone. Now, I don't mean that the face was noseless, or that a "black bird had snipped off her nose," like that of the maid ho was hanging out the Queen's clothes in reality, but the pug nose had certainly anished and instead there ap peared a classic and clear-cut feature of de cidedly aristocratic type. 1 know her quite well and she must have read my ill-concealed look of amazement as my eye rested on her new feature, for she ouicf ly said: "I know of what vou are tninkins. My nose is being changed". Now you neea not deny it, and I'm glad you like It, for I can see that you do by your ex pression. Well, I'll tell you the" secret, if you do not tell my name. My nose was a great source of distress to me, and i hen I learned that a certain Arm in London had Invented a 'nose machine,' which converted the most stubiiy and puggy features into teal beautiful affairs, I sent lor one and placed it on my nose. The spring was placed over the "soft cartilages which were directed by its pressure in a few months Into the desired shape, and my irregular nose was converted into a most regular one" Now to many people this information may Eeem startling, but it is true to the "very letter. A DEESS FOR TKAVELETO. Pittsburg ladies are not stay-at-homes, lr.d consequently interested in becoming traveling dresses. This one has the sanction of a lead ing fashion jour nal of Paris. It is made of fawn colored cloth, and is trimmed with silk cream -colored embroid eries. It is cov ered with an em broidered cape festooned all around and has a Mcdicis collar. The decorative utes of electricity wer.e most won- derfully shown at the recent "artis tic supper" given at the Continen tal Gallery in London by Mr. Jan Van "Beers, savs the New York Times. The novelty of a lu minous table was Introduced; it consisted of a solid slab of plate glass covered with a transparent cloth, through which shone the light from over f.O incandescent lamps of prismatic colors. These were skillfully hidden from view and were under the control of the host, who now fjid again flooded the table with dazzling brill ancy of varied hues or suffused a gen tle glow bewilderingly beautiful. In addition, across the table artistically laid, run a rope of roses, apparently to con nect three gilt statuettes holding upright wreaths of the same blooms, but which reallv concealed the slender electric wire that lit the white, pink and yellow lamps I fe l "4. VVii Sb ftfoss K-3- i S&&T'gM'- Jug ovel '?' b2V of roses a, i t- the brim i c.yffciuSe Vjt J". iV 3o 0th tv im I fi I i f far, ."i - that swung in the wreaths glow with reful gent light. CLEOrATKA STUjIi IiTVES CT SMETt The tailor-made jacket here shown is double-breasted with separate basques. The collar and the re verse of silk are opened to show the waistcoat and the cravat- The sleeve is puffed on the shoulder, and pinched half way above the elbow with three little pleats. The hat Is made of fine black straw, lined in side with equally fine white straw, Tailor-Mads Jacket. and covered with a bunch of orchids hold together bv loops of mallow ribbons. Kound the stems of the flowers a small gold adder is twisted. This is one of the nu merous hats which have been baptised after Sardou's celebrated drama, and the little golden adder has been "cooked with all kinds of sauces" as they say in French, to adapt it to souie part or another of our dress. This custom of recalling tacts of current interest and topics of daily conversation in the composition of our dresses and fash ions, is certainly very childish, says tho Album des Modest, but there is no reason why the art of combining handsome ornaments and pleasant dresses should always be guided by grand artistic reasons and philo sophical considerations; a certain amount of mmor and gayetv will not do any harm. After the "Cleo'patra" hats, dresses, rib bons and so forth, we have had quite as many "Thermidor" hats, bonnets, jackets, etc; of course everv milliner or dressmaker interprets the leading idea in her own way, so that the same denomination points to the endless variety of modes. London ladies affect a new cap for their parlor maids. The new design is certainly pretty; indeed it is a question whether some mistresses will not thick it a good deal too pretty. As regards material, it is the same as an ordinary cap. The crown is trimmed with two smart little French bows, and the streamers at the back are scarcely more than two inches wide. It is a smaller cap than has been worn heretofore. A FASHIONABLE BRIDESIAZft. The dress sketched here was wom by one of the bridemaids at the marriage of Count de Vere with Mile. Hanterive, an event duly chronicled here as well as in Paris, where it was an event of the ssason. The dress is of silver gray crepe de chine and is trimmed with a wide hand of silver galons to shape the girdle. The bodice is fas?-' ened on the shoulder and under the left arm. The skirt, is looped on the left hip in a bow with the material itself? tJ, i ; 11 this looping allows 1 n 1 Al tsee another skirt snaae aarKer. xne sleeves arc very much pufled up and A. Eridemaid. are cut out in one sole piece of the material ol the dress. The orthodox seaside suit for the belles of merry England consists of a perfectly plain close-fitting skirt of diagonal blue serge, a jaunty open-fronted coat of the same mate rial, and either a cambric shirt or double breasted waist-coat of check drill, with cravat, silk scarf and leather waistband. A good-looking suit, w hich sells for 2 Gs com plete, is made of estamene or diagonal serge, and is well furnished with pockets and trimmed round the hem with a band of braid. Many like the rough diagonal serges best. There is vastly more character about them than those ot fine texture. A new belt which a horsewoman would be almost sure to fancy is of tan-colored leather, with a steel stirrup on which to hang a chate laine, and a steel buckle made of a bit and curb. Another pretty belt has a deep pointed front laced down the middle with cord. EHOCKED THE BELIES. An Earl's Daughter Innocently Insults Two Southern Bciaties. Xew Tort Times. The deplorable ignorance of English women in regard to American affairs, which is well understood, has never been better illustrated than in a story told by a recently-returned traveler. Two young Southern girls, cousins, a blonde and a brunette, were visiting England with their uncle and father. The three were invited to stay in the family of an Earl, and while there their e-cort was summoned briefly away on im portantibusincss. At the request of his host he left his young charges with him until he should return. The very day of his depart ure one of the Earl's daughters, who had evinced a courteous curiosity all along con cerning her guests, was chatting with one of Yhem, the brunette, when she suddenly inquired in apparent cood faith: "Which was it, your father or yonr mother, who was a negro?" The indignation of the American girl may be imagined. It was shared by her cousin", nor as it mitigated when the questioner, seeing her blunder, endeavored to explain that she supposed "all Southerners had negro blood in their veins." It took de cided effort on the part of the rest of the family, including the Earl himself, to pre vent the cousins from leaving the house at once without awaiting their guardian's return. THE HEEOINE OF MAHIPTrE. Efforts of the Princess of Wales to liaise a Testimonial Fond. Court Journal. The Princess of Wales is extremely grat ified with the spontaneous response made by the ladies of England to her appeal on behalf of Mrs. Grimwood, the heroine of Manipur. The sum announced as having been received must not be taken as repre senting the whole of the fund. The officials who have charge of thefundat Marlborough House say that when the accounts are made up it will be found that there will be the handsome amount of about 1,500 to hand over toMrs. Grimwood. The Queen has expressed her intention to contribute, and Her Majesty is very en thusiastic about Mrs. Grimwood's heroism. The Princess of Wales is now considering how it can be best administered so as to avoid any-trouble or worry to the recipient. 'J5 JU THE THE DEESS CRUSADE. Bessio BramMo Isn't Taken "With the New Chautauqua Idea. THE LOED DOESN'T EM PASHIOBB.. She Sczgcsts an Attack on the Princew ot Wales and Bernhardt KEFOEM BT'CONTERTINQTHE LEADEES tWJUTTElT FOB TXTJ2 rJISTATCB. Custom Is the law of one descriptlon-of fools, and fashion of another; precedent is the legislator for the first, and novelty tho last" This was the pithy saying of an old En glish clergyman, who wrote very many wise things. Those who resist all innova tions and stick to old customs because they are old, show as little brains as those who adopt every novelty blindly because soma fashionable authority has set the style. As some people grow older they get "sot in their ways," and think that everything different or new is bad. In religion, in leg islation, in manner of living, in style of dressing, this is continually being illustrated by those who have respect unto precedents and no faith in new systems or improved methods. The power of prejudice and re sistance to change in religious belief is shown in a recent paper by Canon Taylor in which he states what a vast expenditure of money and effort it takes to make a con vert from heathenism. He cites the case of China, with a population of 382,000,000, with an annual increase of over 4,000,000, and in all that vast country only 167 per sons were baptized in one year. A LOXO JOB FOE SIISSIOXABIES. At this rate, he estimates, that It will take the missionary society 27,0Q0 years to overcome the annual gain to heathenism. In India the relapses were more numerous than the converts. Mohammedanism is so deeply implanted in Asiatio countries by custom and prejudice against innovation that the gospel is shut out. In English speaking countries where progress is the rule and freedom in religion is not re pressed Calvinism is still held onto tena ciously in faith and by custom which con signs all these Asiatic and African millions and the majority of Christians to eternal fire by the decree of God for his own glory. Lyman Becchcr, who was one of the shining lightsftf the Presbyterian Church in his day, preached a sermon one Sunday, as related, on the danger of allowing a child to die without baptism. He described in burning words the horrors of that ever lasting hell, and illustrated it by a case in point ot a mother wlio, tnrougn neglect ana procrastination, had not brought her child to be baptized, and through sudden acci dent it was killed. "That child might have been anaugel in heaven," said the preacher, "but it is now, through the fault of it par ents, a tenant of hell. REVISION OF THE CREED. Such was the customary teaching of his day. By force of precept and precedent it was pounded into the people, and so fearful now are many of the preachers and laymen that innovation will interfere with such education, that they resist with, all the power that is in them the revision of the creed that supports it. Such is the power of custom in the church. Nor does it seem less so inlie law which holds precedents superior to cither right or reason or jus tice. In Kentucky last Monday, the State of Henry Ciay. the new Constitution which affirms the worst features of the old common law was adopted by an immense majority though opposed by Carlisle and Buckner and the foremost men of the State, showing that the mass of men did no thinking for themselves, but all like sheep went astray together, dominated by the fashion of the Bourbons which is to learn nothing. Then it is the custom in politics to stand by the partyvqu were brought up tor-right or wrong! The mass of men belong to this description of fools. The few intelligent enough to form their own opinions and hold their sovereignty under their hats are sub jected to derision as "Mugwumps" and turn coats by those of the Iugalls stripe, who hold that "the worst Republican living is better than the best Democrat." "Tidal waves" occasionally turn up and overwhelm a political party, but these are caused more by fights, tactions and personal bitterness than by desire for any innovation of reform or improvement, SLATES TO THE OLTX But while so many have a reverence for old times and old ways and are so opposed to change, it is perhaps as well that thero is a counterbalance in fashion "which brings everything into vogue by turns, it is said, save virtue." The slaves to custom resist new fashions as strenuously as they hold on to the old ones, not dreaming, it would seem, that it would be wise to consider whether some changes are not for the better. There are pig-headed old farmers who will farm ju3t as their fathers did. They don't want any new fangled ways, they want to go to church and sing psalms and hear long sermons and pray with much speaking as of old. These light organs and stained glass windows and such fashionable abominations, and wear their Sunday coats for 40 years or more. These hold to the old ways for "the wemen," and can't see any sense in their desire for labor-saving improve ments and "jimcracks" that their mothers never possessed. These are the sort of con stituents that Garland came from to Wash ington to serve in Cleveland's Cabinet. Nobody wore dress coats in his region, and therefore he wouldn't wear one to save anybody's life. "Blue Jeans" Williams came from a backwoods community where homespun was the accepted style, and he stuck to it after the ancient fashion, TOE SOCEXES3 STATESMAN. Jerry Simpson, the new man from Kan sas, was elected froma region where it is supposedly not "swell" to wear "socks." Mrs. Hayes would not wear her hair in any other way than that which was the fashion in her youtn, comoea nat over her ears. Judge Lamar, of the Supreme Bench, wears his hair long and tucked under. In these days when men have their hair closely cut he shows himself devoted to the style of long ago. These are matters of taste and adherence to fashions that have gone out. But there is no special virtue in holding on to an old style unless it is markedly better than the new. The present mode for women of wear ing their hair "banged" is becoming to most faces, and yet some women imagine they are holding on to Christian principles by dragging their hair straight tack, brushing it over their ears, or twisting it into a tight knot In the first centuries the fashions for women were arranged and enforced by the apostles and popes of the early church. Paul, Cyprian, Clement and others dictated the dress of women. Good women were to drape themselves completely so as to con ceal all natural grace. They were not per mitted to attend shows, nor the theaters, nor marriage feasts, nor go about the streets, but only to church, ana to visit the sick, and then were to be veiled or have their heads bagged in a shawl. Still, with all their rules, and sermons, and reproaches, they could not control lmmnn nature, and the- church in every age has moaned and bewailed the folliea of woman as regards fashion, 'What seems strange is that the dignitaries of the church them selves kept growing in grandeur of silken vestments and jewels with their purple gowns, and cardinal's robes and laces and fine linens and red hats. FASHION REPEATS ITSELF. What an all-controlling power is fashion. Like history it repeats itself. Wigs, flow ing, perfumed and sprinkled with gold dust, were worn" by the ancient Romans. Wigs went out and came in again, were in fashion more than a century, and held on to by the gentlemen of the old school with their frills and cocked hats a3 determinedly as Garland held on to his business coat When the present style of bald heads goes oat wigs PTTTSBUBG DISPATCH.. will come in again. TTashions ore formed by accident generally, occasioned by beau ties ordeformities of those tho world chooses to call great The Princess of Wales happens to have long neck with some defacing scar, so tho women of, the world are condemned to wear high choking collars. Pompadour was too short so she adopted the high heels to make) her look taller, and to this day women are being punished with French heels. Anne of Austria had pretty arms and set the fashion of short sleeves to show them. Vic toria is pigeon-toed, so long skirts are per petuated. George IV. and Beau Brummel set ties style for the dandjes of their day, and pretty looking objects they were The Prince of Wales and his sons are the glass of fashion for the "dudes" of to-day. Bern hardt and the demi-monde of Paris, and tho stars of the stage who make dress take the place of genius are also the leaders of the fashions 6f the times. Nothing seems to be too absurd to follow. The style- this year of wearing gowns sweeping the streets is an illustration of the slavish following of fashion. To see women carrying packages, holding up an umbrella ana clutching their skirts out of the mud and filth is a sight for gods and men, but whether for good or evil, at any sacrifice of taste or comfort, the decrees of fashion must be obeyed. THE ITE-VyS TEOJI CHAUTATJQrA But the news comes from Chautauqua that would give joy to the world if there were any hope or faith in their dress-reforming scheme being carried out or bring ing deliverance. A crusade against the fashion of woman's dress by reformers through prayer and fasting and preaching seems like "the baseless fabric of a dream." Years ago a similar agitation took place. The corsets, the bustles, the high heels, were condemned by wise men and women and doctors. The press, the pulpit and the platform were filling the world with con demnation of the fashion of woman's dress as destructive to health and happiness and comfort The wasp waists, the weights of long dresses, were as execrated then as now. The vanity and frivolity of women in cloth ing themselves in a manner which impeded all exercise and freedom of movement, 'and "planted more people in the grave than whisky," as Miss Willard puts it, were the subject of continual protest, but no sooner did the few brave women who desired re form adopt the bloomer than a howl of derision went up from Maine to Cali fornia, and was heard around the world. Their object was health and freedom. The daughter of Gerritt Smith was the first to wear it A few inches of calico and silk set the country on fire. Gerritt Smith siid then that "woman's dress would be her battle ground, and that her triumph there would he her triumph everywhere." Have they reached that stage of the game at Chau tauqua? "WOMEN WHO TVOKB BIOCXMEM. Among the early advocates of the "Bloomer," and who adopted it were Eliza beth Smith Miller, Mrs. Cady Stanton, Amelia Bloomer, Sarah and Angelina Grimke, Luoy Stone, Susan B. Anthony, Mrs. William Burleigh, Celia Burleigh, and other leaders in reform, with many of lesser note. Mrs. Stanton says she wore the dress two years and found it a great bless ing. It gave her a delightful sense of lib erty to be able to run up and down stairs with her hands free to trip through rain and snow witn no sfcirts to bold np or drag gle, and to be released from the vexatious annoyances of long skirts. But, she adds in her reminiscences, "such la the tyranny of custom that to escape being stared at, con stant criticism, rude remarks, persecutions, and mobs, we one by one had to return to the old slavery and sacrifice freedom to re pose." Will this present attempt be more suc cessful? When the enthusiastic girls and conscientious matrons go home from Chau tauqua will they be able to bid defiance to the ediots of fashion as promulgated by the leaders in London and Paris? Can Prances Wiliard wheel the whole army of the W. C. T. U. into line and deliver women from the Impediments of long skirts, garters, bustles, corsets, high collars, high heels and all that interferes with their health and freedom? TOO "WANT FOOLS AEH AUTB. Jndging by tho past, tho result would seem to he rather dubious. The task is'a tremendous one. The hardest thing in the world to be done is to make wise and sensi ble people out of fools. The Chautauqua women evidently contemplate tho conver sion of the American continent to good sense and wisdom, but would it not be a less difficult enterprise to send missionaries to convert the few women who set the fashions in London and Paris? If for the benefit of all mankind for men are interested in this momentous projected revolution against the tyranny of custom and oppres sive sovereignty of fashion as well as women Alexandra, Victoria, Sara Bern hardt and the few others could be induced to adopt chic, short skirts, to abolish cor sets, and all the other abominations, they would be entitled to the praises of suffering millions. The Princess of Wales has presumably as much sense as her brains will allow, but if she had a little more, with the power and influence with which she is credited, what might she not do in the way of reform in dress, and in making life happier and brighter for all women and all men? TOO MUCK FAITH CUES XS IT. Still is it not disgraceful that American women should be the slaves of fashion to suoh an extent that they have not the courage to break away from Europe and adopt for themselves what is useful, suit able and beautiful. "There has never been a period of such utter stupidity in dress as the present for both men and women," says Edmund Russell. It is reported that from this state of things, and from the bondage in which they are held 'as slaves of -custom and fashion, the Chautnaquaus propose that the Lord shall deliver them, but it is hardly likely the Lord will interfere. When Adam and Eve were created they were not intended to be hampered with dress. They took to the clothes business of their own accord, or rather incited by the devil, and through their sin all mankind has become the prey of fashion, and have found that all is vanity and vexation of spirit The crusade for dress reform may inspire hope, but its success will not be owing to the "faith cure." Bessie Bbambxb. A "WAS WAGES ON TEA, It EDted a Fro; and an Australian Woman Starts a Crusads. New YorJcTlmes. An Australian woman is conducting a crusade against tea, which she declares is, "next to alcohol, the greatest master of the human will and destroyer of vitality." She goes on to remark that tea acts on the nerv ous system as does alcohol, but in an oppo site way. Alcohol is a stimulant poison, tea is a sedative one. The former is capa ble of destroying life by producing exces sive action, the other by preventing it. Thiene, the most important element in tea, will, if administered in sufficient doses, kill an animal. Half a grain given to a full grown frog killed it The reptile first be came paralvzed, and after a little went into a convulsed state and died. The death is exactly similar to that caused by hydro cyanic acid, hemlock" and other sedative poisons. All of which is a worse iconoclasm than when we found out that there was not any apple nor any William TelL What would the kettledrum or the 5 o'clock be without tea? Can one fancy an adequate substitute for the "cup that cheers?"! And when one has a headache or a heartache, where would'the consoler find his weapon if he could not offer one a cup of tea? Poems have been written and verses sung in its praise, and now to drop it be cause, forsooth, a frog in circumstances over which it had no control drank too much ofitl Highest Salaried Choir Singer. Miss Clementina De Vere, soprano in Dr. Paxton's church, New York" City, receives 4,500 a year for her services," or 5112 50 each Sunday. This is said to be the highest salary ever paid to a choir singer either in America or Europo. SITNDAT, ATJtRjyT 9, PEUDERT BY THE SEA. Shirley Dare PavoraHatimIFnifljrm for the Bath at the Beach. THE SECRET OF'GRECIAH BEAUTT. England's Dark Bathin? Honse Aw Bad From & Health Standpoint WOMEN NEED-THE BTOSHEfE AN3 AIR twain HIT FOB TKB DISPATCH. It is unfortunate, owing to Interrupted communication between different states of beine. that Solomon cannot be retained for a series of syndicate answers to queries of the curious public. Solomon, However, would find himself obliged to take a post graduate course in universal wisdom to reach some of the inquiries which evidence that their writers imagine information ex ists neatly done up in small packets labeled for immediate dispensing. Of these is tho woman who asks the name of a book which will give her all the information needed to insure perfect health and freedom from dis ease. The book is not yet written which contains this valuable compendium. Many experienced men have tried their hands at writing it, but so far leave much to be sup plied by generations to come. My good friends, knowledge is not gained cs easily as you seem to think. You can't gain it from handbooks like the lawn tennis manuals which young ladies hold in one hand as they play with the- other, and learn the rules in this hand to month way. To gain any deposit of knowledge above the small, well-worn quantity in general use, you must read, or rather study, which is read to remember and compare with obser vation afterward. The first application of what you read to facts will bring out points on which the books are silent, and for any thing bearing on these points you must fol low trails through years of uninteresting reading, to find in a sentence from some modest practitioner, perhaps, the point worth all the rest of the book. HOOKING IDEAS OF LIFE. The general reader will hardly have the taste or patience for this study, but such is the process by which men gain anything in advance of the common stock of ideas. Most men are content to go through life hooking ideas in business and Bpcial life, as when boys they went hooking apples. You see this in any new invention, however trifling, whether it is a new cosmetic or a kitchen article, that the original is hardly on the market before a dozen imitations spring up by men who want to reap the profit of other minds without the trouble of taking thought themselves. Imitation is confessed in feriority, and the consumer wants to take heed of this. Whether buying cosmetics or medicines, always go for the original, which will invariably be found inapproachable. The imitation which improves upon it will aim for an individuality of its own. I always feel that I am defranding myself in taxing an imitation. To return to the subject of health read ing. It is remarkable how little of the sort is found in town libraries. It is considered indispensable to have books on art and a great many repetitions in history, besides the trash of children's reading and summer novels; but a dozen books on health are a large selection. BOOKS FOE ETEET T.TTTR A wr. At least one-tenth the common town library ought to be given to works on health and sanitation such bocks as Dr. B. Ward Richardson's "Diseases of Modern Life" and his eloquent- essays on "Tho Common Health," Sir H. Thompson's work on "Food," Dr. Anstie's several handbooks on "Women's Diseases" and his "Neuralgia," Dr. Weir Mitchell's "Wear and Tear for the Overworked" and his "Doctor and Patient," for women; Dr. Graham's book on "Massage," and Dr. Taylor's on the "Swedish Movement Cure," and Edwin Checklev's "Natural Method of Physical Training," with two or throe eood books on nursing, beginning, of course, with Flor ence Nightingale's Incomparable notes on that subject, aud all such clear, thorough and interesting handbooks on sanitary mat ters as that on "Potable Water" by Eloyd Davis, chemist to the Iowa Board of Health. Also two or three good books on the prop erties of plants, which must be picked up second hand, as they are out of print, and some sound treatises on electricity in dis ease, which, I fear, has yet to be written for the laity. There are hardly any of them new books, but they are the soundest, safest and most interesting for the non-professional reader. Add to these the yearly compend of medi cal discoveries published annually in New York and you have a fund of practical infor mation on health which will result in un told good to communities and much savins of life and morals. No possible teaching on the latter subject can compare with the in direct influence of physiology and medi cine. Were women especially better in structed in the history of their own physical life, bravely and fully, temptation would become extinct Not all the world has to offer would weigh against the torturing pen alties of error, and what is more, intelli gence would prevent those terrible mar riages which mean unavoidable and agoniz ing deaths to young mothers. A SARCOPHAGUS IN THE HOME. Without lifting the veils of the unknow able, it would teach the young women not to lay the train for the sickening disasters of a little later life by colds, neglect and over exertion. The passive congestion caused by chilled feet and short-sleeved un dervests in change of weather, or by dano ing, going journeys or prancing round Sunr day school picnics when a girl ought to be keeping quiet at home, have laid the found ation for many of those cases of fibroid and cancerous degeneration which make profes sional reading a succession oi nigntmares worse than the Newgate calendar, and plant in happy homes the living sarcophagus with the odor and putrescence of death in life. That cannot be spoken which hundreds and thousands of loving families are called to endure in the living, agonizing decay of their fairest and dearest, who cry to their physicians "'Cure me or kill mel" The records go far to show that of every 6ix girls, beautiful, lively and adored, one at least is certain of a mutilatedt harrowing death, in marriage or out of it And yet one wise parent takes me to task for saying mat no dook is yet written to leacn gins what they ouorht to know for the preserva tion of their health. He writes as follows: 1 "I-notice-with surprise that you say there are no books to teach a. modest girl in a modest way how to take care of herself for health and refinement. There are two books published in England and obtainable here which leave nothing to be desired in the matter of modesty 'Advice to a Wife,s and 'Advice to a Mother.' I presented my wife with one of them when we were married, we gave them to our daughter when she mar ried and we have given and recommended them to our dearest friends. The autfci is Pye-Chavasse, who died a few years ago, but his works are still the standard in Eng land, Trusting this information may prove of use to you, I remain, etc" rNFOEMATION TOE TODNG WOMEN. With all respect to Pye-Chavasse,whose work was not unknown to me previously, this letter is fresh proof of the great want of hygienic advice for girls. There is plenty of advice for a wife and a mother, but wo need something for a woman as an inde pendent being outside of marriage duties. It is hardly necessary to touch that class of subjects for the girl who is not or may never be married, but whose health, married or single, is more controlled by th'e neglects of youth as to rest, exercise, diet and her gov erning interests than her own pother is aware. Pray,, is she to knownothing of her health until she marries, or isn't it worth caring for until she is a wife or mother? With 70,000 single women in one State 1891 alone, and the number increasing, it Is time to consider girls as something other than prospective nurses and housekeepers, the single woman"heing;not the least useful, in fluential, moneyed or fortunate members of 'their sex and of the Commonwealth. Now in summer is the storage time for health, the jgirlsneed to be looked after kindly to make the most of their vacations for strength and beauty Strange we never think of strength as a factor of beauty, when it is the main one. Force of the heart sends the blood freely through all the fine capil laries of the skin, so that waste and repair are carried briskly on, with the result of a clear, brilliant complexion. A skin in good working order throws off the hundred frets and ails of duller systems, and its reaction frees it from freclcle, blotch and pimple. The strong digestion uses what is sent it to good purpose, and does not make obstruc tion of its cereals or go acrid over pew pota toes and brown gravy. A girl with a rich complexion will be able to ride, walk.dance or work far better than a pasty faced creat ure who has hardly vitality enough to carry on her internal economy. STRENGTH, NEETB AND EEATTTT The beauty may not be used to work, but the ability is there to be developed, and all the better for the preservation of her looks if she trains it to use. Strength and nerve are the foundation of beauty. But sitting on hotel piazzas, with ever so agreeable flirtations going on, riding in a stuffed barge through dust and byways or dancing in a heated room of an August night do not score much to the account of improvement in looks, The greatest benefit of the summer is the outdoor bath in salt water, lake or pool. Fashion has done women no service by frowning down surf bathing at seaside, re sorts. No performance of hygiene adds so directly to verve and beauty of complexion as bathing in open air and sunshine, where you get all the great invigorating influences of nature together. The stimulus of light, the bleaching from the chemical rays of the sun, tho ozone which puts all the internal strings in tune, the circulation of air play ing about the limbs and freshening up the skin, the rest In the warm sand, where yon are between the magnetism of sun and earth, are some of these influences. Venus rises still from the waves and the secret of her beauty is with them. THE DEESS FOR THE STTOTV Women do their best to shoulder off tho benefit by dressing to death so they can breathe little enough of the generous salt air, which would make their color rich and eyes brilliant; their prudery allows only a muffled run and dip in the sea, perhaps in the seclusion of a dingy bathing machine as briefly as possible, to be followed by casing in corset and heavy skirts again, and the thrice shaded stroll under veil and hat and sunshade leaves the sun not a chance at them. To get the highest good of bathing yon want to spend hours on the beach, whether of salt water or fresh. The luxury of a dip in the velvety waves of some inland lakes is like bathing in distilled waters for suppling limbs and softening the complexion. Only you want to go and soak in air and sunshine and welling waters, softened and purified by sleeping in the sun through long days. It is a queen's bath and no lavement of milk, honey or fragrant essence compares with it One wants to lie and sleep in the water, as TJnna, the great German specialist for the skin, makes his patients remain for hours and days in their baths of running water, to renew and purify the flesh. The consummate benefit of bathing with bodies bare to the sun convention unfortunately forbids. Nausicaand her maidens would hardly find a river or pool on the globe where they might bathe in Grecian safety and freedom, hut the famous beauty of Greek women owed much to the habit of bathing nude in streams that flashed with sunlight SATHINO) IN NATURE'S UNTFOEaL Let men who obtain the primitive privi lege of taking the sun in secluded bays and boys who sun themselves in rows on pond or river bank, with their shirts on tho bushes, say if they would part with the in dulgence. Let them hold fast their liber ties in this respect, even if the Government has to set apart regions of shore for them. As for women, let no prude censure the .bare arms and ankles ol'thoso who go in bathing, tor tney need ail tne tree exposure that can be tolerated. The elastic freedom into which hnman nature falls at the beach is infinitely more hygienic than the prudery of stockinet from toes to ear lobes, and vastly more innocent. People in bathing have something wholcsomer to think of than those who stand on the bank and pick out improprieties with a spyglass. Cool salt water isn't a medium for fleshly attrac tions, even in bare arms and blue flanneh The precisians may import that English prude pen, the bathing machine, and wash solemnly in dark bath houses run down into the water on wheels, but the common people will prefer the laughing and splashing in the exhilaration of wide sun and sparkling sea. If people like to bathe in closets on the ocean's brim let them, but do not suffer them to arraign their freer, healthier-minded neighbors who bathe in the open. We don't get half the benefit from baths they are capable of yielding. A BATH OF HOT SAM -WAXES. Hot salt water baths are rejuvenation for nervous diseases as well as rheumatism, but few seaside resorts furnish them, and then the water is tepid rather than hot It wants to be hot, stimulating and kept at an even temperature to the close, the patient cool ing off by a tepid dip or a plunge in the surf if reaction of the skin is good. No one should ever bathe outdoors who feels chilly after a dip. Better a hot sponge bath of salt water in one's room, which in time may bring the strength up to the point of enjoy ing the shore bath. Sitz baths of sea water warmed in the sun are wonderfully strength ening for women's diseases, and bedridden invalids who can lie in the sun and breathe tea. ail and be sponged twice a day with equal parts of saltwater and brandy are in as fair way of recovery as earth allows. A teacup of the mixture is enough for a bath, a small part of the person being sponged at a time and then rubbed dry with the hand of the operator. Weakly children gain by this method remarkably! Compresses wet in this mixture and laid on the stomach dur ing the resting hour assist dyspeptics in gaining tone, though often the mere change to sea air strengthens digestion to its nat ural state. Weak eyes should be strengthened by bathing them five or ten minutes at a time in full basins of sea water, which allow the hands to lave the closed eyes, the water welling over them gently without shoes. No one has any idea of the relief to over tasked eyes till they have tried this method. You might ask me for a good many things I would sooner give you than the gallon glass bottle of sea water brought with pains in land for sponging the eyes. ShxbXiET Dabb. HALIAK WOKEN IN THE WATER. Not So Fastidious as Onr Seashore Belies About Gettlns Wet New York Trlbune.I Women, as a rule, are fine swimmers, after they have learned. They are capable of being fully as good swimmers as men, and often are better. To this rule Italian women handsomely conform. Nowhere can one-find more accomplished swimmers, or more graceful, than on tho women's side of the rope at Lido, the bathing spot of Venice. As. a rule, too, their bathing dresses are handsome, modest, and well de signed to give freedom to the muscles and to offer as little resistance as possible to their wearers' passage through the water. For headgear, broad brimmed straw hats are worn, though generally half of them are left floating on the waterwhile their owners dive and swim. Italian women are not afraid of getting their hair wet. Is there any esoteric signi ficance hi that fact? At any rate, it is a fact One sees no oiled silk caps at the Lido, norany women fearing to go far into the sea lest they should wet their hair. On the contrary, they all get their hair soaking wet, and when they come out they loosen it and let it dry hanging over their shoulders. The men are fine, strong swimmers, too, the equals, 1 think, of any in,the world. THE CAMERA IS KING. HowPretty Pictures Enter Into the Ethics of Social Life. FACTS ABOUT THE SIZE OP SHOES. Many Good T7omra Are Poisoning- Their loved Ones on Bad Bread. S3TAIL TALK FOE THE PAIE BEX rWBITTEW rOB THE DISTATCH.l The photography fad increases. Summer hotels in picturesque regions and who, by the way, ever knew of one in any region not, at least, alleged picturesque are fit ting up dark rooms for the use of the pat rons in developing negative plates. At Bar Harbor and in the Catskills the camera epidemic seems to have taken on the most violent phase all tho women go abont with stained fingers and the snap of the kodak is perpetual. In this industry, like most others of the amateur sort, there are a few who excel and a great majority who merely enjoy. It is remarkable, however, how largely the ama teur photography element has entered Into the ethics of social life. At suburban din ners and luncheons now, if the hostess is skilled, it is quite common to havo the pretty nooks of the place or house trans ferred a la kodak to the souvenir cord, an especially happy thought being that of the bride who, to a small dinner in her new home of her intimates, contrived that each pictured sketch of a cozy corner should con tain the wedding gift of the one for whom it was designed. Another yonng woman, a bride in prospective, now traveling abroad, snaps her kodak upon the view from her window at every fresh stopping place, using the print as a letterhead for the loving epistles frequently indicted to her fiance in this country. "And thus," she says, de votedly, "Arthur knows my exact environ ments." Felt the Death Angers Touch. One woman's idea of what wa? proper under depressing circumstances is shown in this little tale of a returned traveler: "When we were going up the channel," says the latter, '"after touching at South ampton, we were overtaken by a fog and obliged to lay to for some hours. It was evening and a number of us played cards in the saloon, among the number a young woman traveling with her mother who was a very nervous person. Ther parent had gone to her stateroom at the first intimation that our course was impeded, but later she appeared astonished at our calmness in the face of what she regarded as imminent danger. " 'My dear,' she said, excitedly, to her daughter, 'the fog is dreadful; you ought not to be playing cards.' " 'Why, mamma, what ought I to he doing?' laughed the girl. " 'We are in great danger," was the reply, 'don't yon think you ought to be writing things to pnt into a bottle?' " Novel Floral Center Piece. Something of a novelty In the way of a floral center piece for the table is the large plaited willow basket in trefoil or clover shape. This is frequently painted in the enamel paints so much used in the same tint as the flowers it holds or in some deli cately contrasting hue. Such a basket, filled with pink sweet peas, was colored a very light blue, with Erenchy effect, but a white one, filled with white sweet peas, was more daintily beautiful. Por use with mixed flowers green, not too dark, is the most serviceable. Fancy Work That Fays. "My summer fancy work," laughed a woman on a piazza the other day, "Is strictly useful." To" the onlooker it' seemed orna mental as well, for two orthree pieces of gay polka dotted surah and silk were piled In her dainty basket which were, as was ex plained, "Windsor ties in embryo, for my careless 12-year-old boy, who loses and soils faster than I can afford to replace them. I buy remnants of plaidcd, plain and polka dotted silk material wherever I find them, and in summer I hem them. In this way I keep an available store of long, handsome ones, the sort that cost 35 cents to buy, but which cost me about 15 cents in money and a little occupation of otherwise idle time." The Proper Ventilation. The question of fresh air admits ot any amount of handling. Otherwise sensible people show an amount of senselessness on this subject which is inexplicable. In par ticular is there a widespread prejudice azainst night air and against the admission of air of any sort into the sick room. Yet t science nas snown tnat nignt air, at least oi cities, two or three hours after sundown and from then until dawn, is purer than at any other time during the 24 hours. It must, in any event be much less harmful than the at mosphere of a closed room containing even one sleeper. Not long ago a hospital was visited and with much pride the attendant showed sev eral handsome rooms for private patients, as beautifully and artistically fitted with rugs, draperies and bric-a-brao as one sees in any home of wealth and luxury. In eaoh one of them were two parallel windows and no transom. "Why,how is ventilation got?" was asked of the attendant, and the reply wasj "Through the windows." This in a nospitoL It is bad enough that so many sleeping apartments in private houses are unpro vided with means for cross ventilation, the only efficient kind; it is almost wicked that the sick, who moro than all others need every breath of fresh air possible, should be deprived in any degree of their best remedy. It is well to remember that the best ven tilation for a room where no opposite open ings are provided is to raise the lower and lower tne upper sosnes ior equal distances. Wrists of tho Bernhardt GIotc. The wrists of the long gloves which Bern hardt made fashionable may be turned to ac count after the hand is worn out or soiled la the making of the various little bags, work Reasons Why Dr. Price's Delicious- Flavoring Extracts of Lemon, Vanilla, etc., Are Superior to All Others. . . . - They are prepared from the choicest and , purest materials. They contain no poisonous oils or ethers. They are highly concentrated. They are more economical as they require . less to flavor. No delicacies are ever spoiled by their use. They impart the .true flavor of the fruit from which they are made. 18 hags, tobacco pouches, wstoh cases, opera glass bags and so on. Almost any of the pretty little thing3 that are made of chamois majbe fashioned from these repudiated wris.ts. Dressing the Youngsters. It is fashionable nowadays to put small boys into knickerbockers very early, the age of 4 being considered none too tender for the youngster to don his first pair of ab breviated trousers. The kilt skirts which precede the little breeches are made unusu ally short this season, barely reaching below the knee. Fourteen, 15 and 16 inches are the lengths used for the three sizes. This from a mother : "My children's feet are absolutely without blemish, and I at tribute this fact wholly to the care I have exercised over the purchase of their shoes from infancy. It is my mother's idea, who . practiced it with me, and I never had a corn in my life. I buy my children's shoes fully a half size too long and decidedly narrow. Into the extra length I stuff cotton, taking it out as the foot presses down in wearing. A wide shoe, in my opinion, brings a corn almost invariably, as all leather will stretch from wearing, and the movement of the shoe, if too wide, soon rubs a callous place, which in its turn evolves the corn. The atrocities of a short shoe hardly need men tioning bunions, enlarged joints and other horrors. So many mothers err in thinking a loose shoe must be a safe one; if, in ad dition, it is short, the combination could not well be worse." All of which Is duly submitted. Poison In the iSread. Mrs. Emma P. Ewing, who knows a thlnj or two about applied kitchen chemistry, says we women have not learned the ABO of breadmaking. "I see women constantly," she says, "putting bread into the mouths of their families which is nothing more or less than slow poison. The art of breadmaking is to bring fermentation to the perfect point and there arrest it. Chemistry teaches us that when flour, water and yeast aro mixed and held at a proper temperature, the dough becomes perfectly light in five hours and ready for the oven. If baked at once the bread contains all the nutrition in the wheat When, however, subjected to ignorant treatment, it loses eight-tenths of its quality, and in many cases becomes actually poison." JLuso aret H. Welch. BEIJQI0H IN TH2 SCH00I3. How Education Is Conducted in Chile Where Church and State Are United. In all Chilean public schools the Catholic catechism (printed, of course, in Spanish) is an important text-book in constant use. The following questions and answers, with many more in the same strain, are learned and rattled off, parrot-fashion, every day: "What is the Church?" "The Church is the congregation of those who have been baptized, received the sacra ment, and obey the priests and the Pope." "Why is it called the Roman Church?" "Because in Kome is established thegrsat Cathedral of Saint Peter, who was prince of all apostles and predecessor of all Popes." "How is the Christian church divided?" "Into the Church Triumphant, the Church ef Purgatory and the Church Militant" "What is'the Church Triumphant?" 'It is the congregation of all the right eous in heaven." "What is the Church of Purgatory?" "It is the congregation of thoso who died without doing sufficient penance here on earth, and who nave been sent to purgatory to suffer for a season before bein allowed to join the Church Triumphant in heaven." "What is the Church Militant?" 'It is on earth, composed of those who have been baptized and who fight against the world, the flesh and the devil." "How is the lost divided?" 'Into the official church, composed of the pope, the bishops and the priests, and into the common church composed of the people who follow and obey them." All native boys in Chile and girls, too, for that matter can repeat every word of this catechism of 95 pages; for, especially in the primary schools, it is made the basis of education and repeated over and over, day after day, year in and year out In a school for the poor which I attended, writes Fanny B. Ward to The Dispatch, at the close of the session the ragged little fellows stood up and reverently repeated in concert the following prayer: "Jesus, Joseph and STaryl I give you my heart and soul. Jesus, Joseph and Mary! Assist me in my last agony. Jesus, Joseph and Maryl May my soul expire with yon in peace. " And then they rushed out of doors tumul tuously as their easy going naturas would allow and were soon deep in the delights of South American mumblety-peg. CUTE JAPANESE, A Sign That Tells the Truth and Attracts Customers. Chicago Hernial "The Japanese are getting too cute," raid George Bradshaw, of London, at the Palmer yesterday. "They are the cleverest people in the world, I believe. Last winter I traveled all through the land of the Mikado. We arrived at Yosaka one day, and it is quite a small town. We did not know whsre tii stop. There were a number of inns, and we were asked to stop at eaoh one that we passed, but I didn't like the ap pearance of them. Presently we ran across a neat, tidy place that looked quite En glish. There was a big sign in front lika this I l Xngilsh, Oermaa Bad Tzicneb i spoken hex. "That suited us, for we were obliged to communicate with some one in the villaje, and we could talk but little Japanese. Soon after our arrival we asked for the inter preter. " 'Pardon, master,' mumbled tbe land lord in cracked English, "but X hare noas now.' "We were Just able to understand list. He knew a few English words and we knw a few Japanese. " 'No interpreter? we exclaimed, " No.' " Your sign says that all language r spoken here.' " They are." " 'By whom?' " " The guests. We hare all kinds at US' ferent times.' " -j ' ' ' " i U
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers