FANCIES FOR THE FAIR. Designs That TTO1 Adorn Beauty at the Watering Places SomeSow Outing Cos tumes A Dust Cloak Salting for Boys "ovoltles for Women. The costume for the surf is as important In thec latter days as that for the most elaborate city ball. The designers have brought out some lo ely creations in bathing suits, gay in colors and sym metrical in shape, that leave little to be desired. The bathing cap is usu ally made of oiled silk, as is the one here shown. The bfci of the cap is pinked 3t the edge, and a pleated ruche made of a graduated strip pinked at the edges trims the front a3 illus trated. But the bathing costume is not all one needs for the summer recreation. The out ing gown is equally important A light wool costume for summer is in gray and white stripes the latter figured. The skirt slants open on the left side, the open space being freed with white wool, and trimmed with loop" of white and silver buttons. Tne jacket bodice has a short added basque. A white vest is in tho front, notched at the edge, and trimmed with cord and buttons, the same trimming reappearing on the deep white collar and cuffs. A Pretty Outing Costume. "Wistaria-colored flowered lawn is the ma terial of a pretty summer gown illustrated. It ismaae over plain lawn of the same shade. A gath ered flounce with a heading is at the foot of the skirt around the front and sides. The pointed bodice is cut dow n at the throat, and i s trimmed at the edges of the front with a lacnder rib bon and a jabot of white lace. The lace and ribbon trim ming descends in :i point at the back. The elbow leces are pufied with a ribbon and edced with a frill. The il lustration, as p are the others is from JT& per's Eazar. The new blouses of the season are JVoicercd Lawn. very elaborately trimmed. Thev are made in many light shadesand arc treated to rows of tucks, feather ;itchir.c and many gay kinds of galloon mixed with gold. In the shops a bloue waist ot the most approved sort India silk w ith tucks and feahr stitching and a Stanley b-lt may be obta'ned for ?9. ThU is really quite reasonable when one considers the amount of goods that Is required for one of these waists, and the cost of makins. savs the 2CewYork Wor'J. The newest kind of blouse waist laMens diagonally and is trimmed with calloon, in which there is a liberal sprinkling of gold. The galloon often takes some fancy form upon the waist outline perhaps a rose or some other set figure. Ingenious women are doing this galloon embroidering for themselves, and are achiev ing very pretty results from this industry of their hands. A Snlt for Cj cling. Since cycling has become so much the rage for women who find it more convenient to ride a bicycle than to indulge in other forms of exercise, many eflbrts have been made to secure a sktrt th'at should be com fortable and pretty, and at the same time answer the purposes which are required for a cycling suit. It must be of material suitable for rain or shine, it must fit closely, and yet not be too tight, it must be well sewed, and jet, like a riding habit, be able to "give" in case of a-cident to the ne'e-, and, with all, it must be becoming to her when seated upon the cycle ready tor action. A new cycling dress has received the stamp of English approval and is adopted already, to some extent in this country. It is a divided skirt made full enough to look like an ordinary walking skirt when the t is sianuing or simpiy seated upon the cycle. It is ot light w ool, kilted around the lower edge of the skirt, or more prop erly speaking, with kilt plaiting around the lower edge ot each skirt and over this kilt plaiting are vandjek tabs of the same material. This is really a pretty dress, and when once seen upon a few courageous wearers will commend itself to all women lovers of the cycle. Boating dresses are made of serge. In deed, skirts for such purposes are becoming so very narrow that one w onders now the wearer can manage to walk in them. Thev are called "umbrella-case" skirts, and most correctly are they named. The jackets worn with these dresses are cut very long, indeed, almost to the knees, having large, flat pockets and deep guantlet cuus. Millinery for Midsummer. Here are some hints for the headgear to be adopted in midsummer, says the St. Louis Post-Dispatchi For a garden party is a hat ot the Dolly Varden type made en tirely of pale pink and deep rose petals in silk, which are marvelously real looking. Equally pretty on the top is agreatsott bow of deep rose silk the lining must be formed of the palest rose crepe. Another dainty hat is J. large Gainesborough of Tus can straw lined with cream-white gauze; the crown a mass of lillies of the valley, which fall in happy confusion and in artistic grace over the hat just as though they had iallen from Flora's kingdom right dounonthe crown, which is also partly covered with soft knots of white gauze. Have you seen the charming capote ga lette? It is made of large black beads, threaded on wire and twisted about to form large rings or circles, with a cluster of yel low roses at the top. The capote galette is n - erv flat shape, and when the term "ga lutte'' is thus employed it is equivalent to our elegant simile of as "flat as a pancake" the galette being a flat kind of delicacy of the cake tribe. The seaside flight his brought out the cutest bonnet creation in the world. The "sea bonnet" is a combina tion of sea greens in velvet and white chif fon; the latter represents the foam, while the velvet represents the waves, the lowest stratum being tne sea sand color. The tini est of shells rest on this light material, as J II lialhing Cap. ftsy well as on a lot of seaweed, whichis scat tered about over the bonnet. The strings are L made of white chiffon and seem to emanate from the waves, while pieces of coral serve as an agraffe at the back of the bonnet. A Cloak for Dusty Travels. To the charming ladies bound for summer lainpaigus these hints for traveling gowns win De iouna 01 in terest: One would be pretty if made of terra cotta and cream camel hair cloth, the velvet hat with plumes to match, while the traveling cloak should be of pale fawn cloth. An other is a costume of gray cloth slight ly trimmed with gold, the sleeves of a darker shade of velvet "With this the mantle should match, and should be trimmed with chinchilla und lined with yellow. The bonnet should be a toque, whose orna ments are gray feathers with a touch of gold. The dust or driv ing cloak here illus trated is made of blue" and gray changeable taneta silk, xne standing collar is trimmed with a box-pleated frill of silk: fortius a double strip two yards and a quarter long pleats at the middle of the back, and in nar rower single pleats at the front. The mil is headed by a folded ribbon, which is tied in a bow at the fron Fashionable driving cloaks are also made of thin covert coating with a cape trimmed in a novel iashiou with a fraise of picked out cloth wide at the shoulders and narrow at the waist. This has tight sleeves Others are of long fancy woolens, with slits through which the arms appear. The Reform Dress Is Here. Much has beensaid abroad about the "Fin de Siecle" dresses. There has even been a "Coming Dress Bazar" held at Kensington Town Hall, in which the dresses worn by members of the lleform Drcs3 Association were remarkable for their picturesqueness and grace, though all were alike in being several inches from the floor. Soft, graceful materials were universally advocated and used. The Syrian skirt, which was ex tremely full, caught up underneath so that it fell in a lull puff around the edge, and the Turkish teagown are picturesque examples of this dress. The trouble in this matter is that we do not want any reform in picturesque dress, says the New York Tribune. There are st vies enough for silk and velvet which are neither burdensome nor out of place, lucre is a demand for a lighter, less burdensome dress for general 'street wear, an outfit that shall give a woman all the freedom of a riding habit, and yet be in no way conspicuous or unfeminine in effect. "While men have been sneering over the prospect of feminine trousers and a general a loption of the Bloomer style of dress, all the change which women of this country have desired has already taken place. "Wo men of sense who are good pedestrians and experts in athletics, and others who refuse to ue unnecessarily burdened have ordered their tailor dresses to be made as light as possible and so as to clear the sidewalk; and underneath these they have now discardtd petticoats aud adopted riding-habit tights without further show or talk about the mat ter. Fashionable dressmakers are furnish ing sucli outfits generally tor their custo mers who are going to the mountains. "Where extra warmth is required an ar rangement not unlike stage trunks is made up by the dressmaker. In rainy or muddy w eatner 'Spats" or gaiters to mat;h the dress are worn, and, if the wearer lancics, these may be worn above the calf or over the knee. There is no comparison in neat ness or grace between a woman neatly at tired in a tailor gown of this kind and one arrayed in a trailing dress and petticoats Le flouueed with lace, swish-swashing througn the mire and filth of our city streets. Suitings for the Boys. The mother always has as quick an eye for proper suitings for her bsy as she has for Herself and fashion writers are beginning to recognize the tact. The suit here shown is for a lad of from 8 to 11 years. It is made of dark blue serge, and consists of knickerbockers which are buttoned to a shirt waist and a belted ltus sian blouse. It is a great pity that all preparations lor drcsJ sing tanned shoes have thusfarproved afailure. The reason for this prob ably is that -the surface of the shoe is worn off into the soft under sur face of the leather, which becomes so thor oughly soiled by wear that no dressing can remedy it. If some pro cess could be invented by which the shoes could be cleaned first and a suitable dressing applied afterward it would probably be suc cessful. As it stands, the matter is an un solved problem. There is a decided change in the art of hair dressing. Everything leans to airi ness and all the heaviness is banished com pletely. The present iashion in hair dress ing allows the parting to be seen. Fringes are to give way to a certain extent. The hair is not to be worn plain, but curled on either side of the parting, being carried back to the far crown of the head, as we see it worn bv Her Majesty on the coins of the realm. These waved "bandeaux assimilate well with the favorite Grecian style, but the back of the hair"is still dressed h'igh, and is likely to be so as long as the high collars and runs keep in fashion. A pretty coiffure is the Etagere, which is composed of four or five horizontal rows of rolled curls filling up the interstice at the back of the head; the "fairy fringe," which can be worn with this, falls hi sott curls and forms a point in the center of the forehead. It accords equally well with Grecian knots and twists replaced by a bunch of curls, and both are frequently surrounded by a silver-jeweled, gold or silver -bandeau. It has been estimated that the total amount of coal annually wasted by impor fect combustion in England is 4S.ooo.OCO tons corresponding to 12,003,000. Fuknttitee upholstered and repaired. Haugii & Keenan, 33 "Water street. IS) SB twfMmk i WMfzm ImwMm IM iTjBilrj-jl I Ana m fl C3IL d dl 11 liny iilii THE IDEAS IN DECORATIONS. One Central Idea Must Govern If a Tfoom Is to look Well Designs for "Windows Kow Things in Furniture Novelties in Lace. FEOM THE CPnOLSTE2EB. It is gratifying to observe that day by day a greater public interest is manifest in the subject of house decoration. It's a pity, however, that this interest is not mbre logical and docs not consider more the motive and less the temporary beauty. Many a woman to-day is signing for white washed walls, pine tables and a few rugs onlv for the floors, simply because in her aimless groupings for the artistic she has made a junkshop of her rooms, and ac cumulated labor that seems endless for tired hands. It is a pity that some voice cannot go forth like a thunderbolt and warn folks to have a definite object in view when "house furnishing." Oscar Wilde made himself the bult and ridicule of the entire press of this country when he said, about 11 years ago, that his highest ambition in life was to "live up to the sunflower;" but the idea was full of sense. If, in furnishing, one would take only a simple flower and build up the sur roundings from its color combination one would make no mistake, for nature is infal lible in her colorings. The great trouble, though, is that a woman's head is filled up with a lot of details, and by the time shy has adopted a few dozen 'Suggestions" and picked up some pretty cushions and "lovely scrap baskets" and "delightful easels" and "bric-a-brac" she has got a room that is a hodge-podge and a terror to the aerage serv ant. 1 n every apartment one motive should rule repose, recreation, beauty or cheerful ness. These are prime integral qualities which should govern a room, and with the definite object of an apartment once in view the furnisher should unequivocally "live up to it." Itlch Design for a Window. The accompanying sketch is made from a highly dignified, rich example of window drapery. The main drapery is cut to catch up beneath the back side of the cornice, which is of gold, and to carry over and down as shown. The whole main drapery is of one piece; the over drapery is also of one piece. The same kind of fringe is used upon both, the fabrics being in colors to softly harmonize and show little contrast A European novelty in lace curtains is a blue applique design on a black net. The center is cleverly ornamented by tropical scenes. Another novelty in lace curtains is a black net appliqued with bronze designs with the center piece, poeticallv depicting the four seasons. In cheap Nottingham curtains much better designs are .being brought out, being done in small, nice ef fects and in close imitation of Brussels natterns. What is termed Canevas is a French canvas center, a new feature in medium grade Irish points. They are made exactly like the original, very expensive goods, that are entirely of one piece. Novelties in Irish points show a working of the pattern in close loop-stitching, instead of in tho usual way ot apply ing the design in plain material. An at tractive feature in plain Brussels curtains is the introduction ot little fine dots running over the face. A new tint in lace cur tains is called "the Panama," being the same shade as that of the Panama hat, be tween a cream and ivory. Another Way to Beautify a "Window. The accompanying illustration of a popu lar window trimming is open to reconstruc tion; the drapery from which it is sketched is Oriental in coloring, the end drapery be ing in a dull cerise or cherry brocade, lined with a soft tint of orange, a little Italian scroll figure being shown upon the cerise face of the fabric, also in orange tones The over drapery is plus.ii aud hung ery full, and ot a quaker's gray, which, in the massjve folds and shades of the curtain, lights up and deepens effectively. This also is lined'with the pale orange hue, and the lining is kept liberally in view. The leading upholstery honscs and fine decorators are beginning already to pur chase novelties for falL A new idea is being shown in chenille curtains Instead of its being of one solid piece of goods, it is broken by fretwork or lace-like designs wThere is another craze which is hovering over us and thats furniture painting. Jt has made its way into the art stores, where women bur their china outfits, and that sort of thing, where enamel paints appeared fully two years before they struck the fur niture and upholstery trade proper. The craze for some time prevailed in England, and we will undoubtedly be but a short time free of it. The wood is selected in the plain, and is in sereens, over-mantels, cabi nets, clock cases, tables, cupboards, corner bracketSjhat rails and articles of light ware, and the idea is" to paint them in frivolous styles or apply to them poker work, gesso work or otherdecorations. 1 he use of the old time curtain pole has become so tiresome that manufacturers are now oflering a combination of fretwork grille, which fits into the top of the door way or window casement; at the bottom of it is a shelf, beneath which comes the pole. The fretwork is of itself a handsome decor ation and beneath it the shelf gives oppor tunity lor a pleasing arrangement of bnc-a-' brae Ijitest Oddities in Dainty Furniture. Furniture novelties being shown to the trade buyers, seem to come from the seven teenth century gems of 'cabinet work done in mahogany, picked out in gold and in har monies of dead gold with ournished gold bronzes and hand paintings. At Egyptian booth with elaborately designed fretwork top, is a striking oddity for a hall stand, aud a full-length mirror in the rear reflects the fret to good effect A knight clad in complete armor is utilized on a hall stand. The burnished breast-plate is represented by a mirror in the correct Bhape, while gaunt leted hands hold a guard for the umbrella rack. An attractively arranged hall settle is one with high back containing a large mirror, having umbrella racks at each arm with a heavy lamp swinging from a point overhead. A massively carved bull's head forms the back of a cunous hall chair. The polished seat and carved legs closely resem ble the legs and cloven hoofs of the bovine. . i lil li ''"' I'lvrL ' t 1' Vi ?i l PITTSKURG, DISPATCH, FOR LOVELY FACES. Shirley Dare's Hints to Women for Improving Complexions. THE OLD ENGLISH COSMETICS. Simple Decoctions That Anyone Who Desires Beauty Can Make. THE YIBTUE OP A LEAP OP PAESLET tWJUTTEX TOB THE BISrATCH. H, don't tell toe about them!" says Pierre,as I say some thing about the in compatibility ot hot weatherandwomen's demands in the cos metic line. "Those women will be the death ot me unless a cool wave comes soon. If you can bear any addition to earthly burdens, look over this bundle of letters and amuse yourself." I know a man who once varied a check ered existence by acting clerk in the drug store of a country town, which he declared had given hiin more insight into the secrets and peculiarities of the population than he could have gained any other way. Espe ciallv he trained a knowledge of women's -I foibles which made him wiser for the rest of his life. Pierre is undergoing a similar course in the study of women Pierre, that precious stone, who has been christened thus because he is so sharp, hard, brilliant and invaluable. A cynicism in drug clerks and the compounders and sellers of cosmet ics is inevitable. Perhaps you may be able to determine why. Confessions of the Fair. The unreserve with which a distant woman pours her desires and details of com DDn into her letter to the drug clerk has ,.o parallel either with physician or priest uao peculiarity ui luesc i-uuicsaiuiia is ixiui most of the writers sketch themselves as possessed of every charm but the one point of complexion, where they fail to suit them selves. Or they had a very nice complex ion np to the date of a recent illness, or had used some vaunted cosmetic which has dis appointed them and must counteract its ef fects. For instance "1 am a blonde with an ex ceedingly thick head of hair, 40 inches long, of a rich hue between brown and gold; a very finej delicate coloring, or so considered by my friends. Eyes large, dark and blue; brows aud lashes quite dark; features fair and regular." Now, what in heaven's name has this to do with the need of a freckle lotion, which the young lady wishes to order? Does she wish to enchant the sus ceptible correspondence clerk by letter, or, which is more likely, is she so enamored of herself she cannot avoid lingering over the picture? The contrast to the seif-admiring beauty is the overfrank woman who com plains she has a yellow, blotched or greasy complexion she thinks comes from a stomach trouble, in which 6he is unmistakably right, and there are blackheads at the tip of her nose. AVhat is the use of drawing such a horrid picture when five words would tell a dealer all that is needed? To Look Nice at Her Wedding. A woman of 29 who wants a face wash, "as she is going to be married in 16 days aud wants a clear complexion," should be gin sooner by six months to make sure work of her renaissance. The woman of 35 who writes for a developer, because she is in a show room, and if she had a better figure to show dresses and cloaks on she would get a higher salary, has more to recommend her plea than any of the silly women who wish to improve on nature un necessarily. I feel like telling her at once all the development she needs is two yards of washing net, stiffened with gelatine .in the starch, and crumpled up lightly to fill out her gown. It is cooler, fresher, and looks better than the coarse, blowsy figures made by suction with an air pump, in the hideous, injurious patent processes. One girl wants to know if there is any ap paratus for tying the ears back, for hers stand out like handles of a jar, and she doesn't know that one of the surest ways of correcting this habit is to wear the hair over the ear, the steady, constant pressure train ing tne cartilage gently and salely to its proper set I have known girls who have tretted over such defects when they were 16, and despaired, vet their unconscious efforts had their efifcet years after. Habit will J mold tho very bones better than a plaster bodice, and there is nothing it will not do with muscles. Tho Koally Sweet Woman. It is a relief to turn from these specimens of nature to the really sweet and charming women, who are not so scarce as they might be, after alL Do realize what the phrase convevs "a sweet woman?" Above all that pliysical sweetness, which is not merely the cleanliness of washing one's self twice or thrice a week, or more, but a wholesome state of the secretions from absence of in ternal ferment In dyspepsia and consumptives, the per spiration is acid a few hours after bathing, and the body linen wears out sooner than common, the fiber being attacked by the acid secreted. The remedy is alkaline baths of warm water one dessertspoonful of borax or ammonia in three quarts of water. Night sweats in consumption and extreme sweating in any case may be con trolled by an ammonia bath daily, and the use of a dusting powder, made of 3 parts of salicylic acid, 10 of starch and 87 of Venice talc The skin is first sponged with weak alcohol, having a little tannin dis solved iu it, which astriuges the skin and allows the powder to adhere. In the morn ing it is washed off in a bath and may be re newed at once in those trying cases which ruin dresses and make one's face a fountain of waters. race Powder as a Protection. Kemember the recipe given is a body pow der, not a dress powder for the face, worn for looks' sake alone. The stiffest church member could hardly object to face powder in warm weather if he knew its protection against road dust and cinders on the rail way. As one must have the face covered with dust, at least let it be clean dust The use of powder in such cases is no more vanity than the deacon's use of bay rum on his face after shaving. I say this, for there are circles where to appear with powder on one's face is to write one's self a Jezebel at once. Draw the line at paint, which is a deceit for show alone. Sweet women have the instinct of taking care of themselves, for talk as you please of natural beauty, little of it survives 16 without conscientious painstaking, which is a virtue, as it all tends to health and peace of mind. Can you imagine Solomon's model woman with other than a good complexion and clear, open eyes? The great beauties usually come of a race of women who have taken care of themselves for three or four generations, refining and improving with each. ' Sleep as a BeantiQer. Sound sleep is a (jreat bcautifier. Sleep in pure air, with windows wide open two thirds of ,the year, and the bed not too far out of the fresh current I find sleep rest as much again taken in perfectly pure air, and weakened hearts are strengthened by such rest better than by any other tonic in the world. , Instead of seeing how little air you can bear, train yourself by degrees to all, you can endure without chilliness. Then comes the midday rest, which all are not careful to take who can. Alas! that so many who crave and need it cannot have it at all My doctor says all women ought to lie down at least halt an hour after lunch. It aids di gestion, rests tho muscles and eyes, and re laxes the tension of nerves in which most abls women live. Give yourself all the rest possible in warm weather. I'm not sure that it isn't the intention that we should store up it is cooler. Finally, if. women were as I fliS3l ) .SUNDAY, JUNE 28, careful to insist on having the right food as they are about their gowns, there would be immediate improvement to good looks. So much for the foundation habits, without which no cosmetics are ot any lasting use. Nature's Complexion Beautlflcrs. It is the season for testing the virtues of strawberry juice for the coraplexion.the best use to make of the wretched crop this year. No French preparation of cream of straw berries compares with the juice of the fresh fruit, of wpich a big berry yields enough for the face at one time. Crush the berry and rub over forehead, checks and chin, letting it dry in, and sleep over it. Next morning wash in the softest water to he had distilled water if possible. Folr low this up, and the old English recipe book says the face will soon become fair and smootLu Now is the time for trying all sorts of herb recipes for the face from poeny root, which we read "taketh away black spots of the body," to the juice of purslane, mixed with white of egg, andal lowed to dry on the face over night. It is a blessing to "learn of so much use for that heart-breaking graceless weed. For pimples, says a manual which is old enough to have been in Montespau's Cabi net, drink the juice of decoction of plan tain, which is a very cooling remedy. Do not take the tough, stunted herbs which grow on foul heaps, acrid and injurious, but choose large, healthy looking plants grown on sweet soil. If you feel bloated and dull Eat a leaf of Tarsley, and you will be surprised to find the relief and lightness it gives. Aud this is very well worth trying foi the profuse sweats which trouble middle aged women. It is altogether too good to tell, but after making a night of it, parsley clears the head and svstem in a way altogether too merciful for the sinner. The Eomans were not imagin aries when they wore parsley crowns to avoid the effeetsNof wine, and it is probable they knew enough to eat a leaf or two. A beautifying wash which date3 from the time of JIme. de Maintenon takes equal parts of white tansy and rhubarb water, to every half pint of which is added two drachms of sal ammoniac. This fluid is ap plied with feather or hair pencil three or tour times a day to pimples or tetters on any part of the person. How sweet would be such an "Odoriferous Water" as follows, and how few can cut enough fragrant herbs and gilliflowers to make a pint of it. How much finer, too, than the recspes current for potpourri, one of which called for two quarts of rose petals and two ounces L e. , four tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon,and as much cloves as would kill the flower scent Most of the potpourri made smells like spiced fruit cake or mince meat more than anything else. Our genuine old English recipe says: "Take equal parts ot sweet marjoram thyme (and these culinary herbs blend very richly with the flower scents), lavender, rosemary, pennyroyal buds, red roses, vio lpf.s. Mnvo-inlvflnwers. savorv and oranze peels, infuse in white wine till they sink en tirely to the bottom of the wine, then distil in an alembic two or three times. Keep the water in bottles, well corked, and prepare the residuum as a perfume." Fancy a deli cately kept house smelling through its rooms with the subtle spirit of gardens. For Pimply and Inflamed Faces. The Italian rose ointment is feasible and has repute for pimply and imflamed faces. Take 12 ounces of fine lard, four ounces white rose petals, and as much of red, with an.ounce ot wax. Melt the lard and pour on the petals in a queensware jar, covered and kept in the sun three days, placing in warm sand at night. Strain the lard through linen cheesecloth add the wax melted, beat ing the mass till it cools. It is finer to be melted again with low heat and beaten two or three times. The elder flower pomade is four ounccs of fresh elder flowers, steeped in warm olive oil of the finest quality, for two days in a covered china pot, and an ounce of white wax, melted and beaten into the oil when strained. It is very emollient and soothing. The Italian tutty pomade is odd, but very much esteemed for whitening the skin and rendering it velvety. Tutty is a whitish oxide of zinc, with a trace perhaps of lead. Equal parts of the rose ointment given before and of butter washed in rose water "afe worked together without melting, other than by sun heat, and half as much tutty in fine powder is worked in by long and thor ough rubbing with a bone spatula on a por celain slab. "Mealing and Cooling Remedies. The remedy acne and comedones Spanish ladies use a salve of 30 drams rose ointment with 4 drams carbonate of ammonia worked into it, and scented with tuberose or jas mine. The Spanish cucumber pomade is said to be very effective as a healing and softening agent to the skin. Equal weights of sliced cucumber, purslane, violet leaves arid leaves of black nightshade are bruised aud steeped 48 hours in warm olive oil, then heated and strained, and white wax added to give it consistence. The violet foliage is cooling and the night shade soothing to the nerves of the skin. A softening application in favor with clever gouvernantes is olive oil 10 parts, yolk of egg 20 parts, turpentine 40 parts, tho yolk and turpentine rubbed together and the olive oil worked in, as salad dressing is made. It is &aid to be very nice for the skin, and when a ereat fester is anticipated this pomade is applied to the face nights be forenand that it may present unrivaled softness. Greek women ot a certain province were famed for their pure and velvety com plexions, owing to the use of An Unctuous White Earth on the skin. It is possible we have some such cosmetic in the soapy earth or mineral soap of Montana, but our far West provinces seem inclined to keep all their good things to themselves, or are too modest to let them bn known. Pharmacy and the cosmetic arts should revel in the riches of our mount ain slopes. I hae to repeat that no further recom mendation can" be given sponge silk. It Is now eight months since it was mentioned, and in that time prices of ordinary silk have come down the sponge silk has risen, so that the advantage to buyers is in the regular goods. The benefit to rheumatic cases lies in wearing silk of any kind, and the advantage of sponge silk was its cheap ness, which no longer exists. Much could be said for the beneht of wearing paper next the skin for warmth and delense against rheumatism as a substitute for higher class materials, but if paper, shirts immediately went up to a higher price than silk it would not be advisable to buy them. I feel very shy of mentioning new things, since the penalty is having a few thousand letters to answer for the next year or two in addition to regular work. Shiklet Dare. Some New Chemisettes. These shirt fronts are to be worn with a tailor dress which is out down at the throat The one at the left of the cut is of light blue Chambery, with the hem down the middle of the front, and the narrow tie at the throat of white lawn. A second is of Sink Chambery, with a band of insertion own the middle, and a narrow tie of white lawn at the lower edge of the collar with turned-down points. The third collar in the group is of repped white pique, with a band of pink Chambery let into tho front, and with, a pink collar bound with white, and finished with a narrow white tie. 189L HOW TO GROW PLUMP. Celia Logan Holds Out Hope for the Girl Who Is All Bones. DDIPLED CHEEKS AND HOUND AEMS Come With the Use of the Sweet and Starchy Poods and Drinks. DIET OF CHAMPAGNE AND CHESTNUTS CWBITTES FOR THE DISPATCH. In youth "the season made for joy," as Sheridan phrases it a'girl should be plump enough to be pleasing to the eye. Her jaw and cheek bones should have sufficient flesh upon them to give a soft, rounded contour to her face. Her neck, like a column, should have every chink covered and rest upon firm shoulders, well filled in to hide the clavicles. The chest should rise into a gently swelling bust and thence slope evenly downwards to the round, supple waist. From the shapely arm no sharp elbow joint should protrude, but should taper down to a bone-hidden wrist, supporting a small, dimpled hand, with fingers prettily curved. When art fails them our women, enlight ened and progressive, call upon science to aid them, and I, an humble exponent of one small, but not unimportant branch of it, have been asked by readers of Tnn Dis patch if, knowing how to teach the fat girl to become slender, I cannot instruct the too slim girl how she can coax adipose tissue enough upon her bones to meet the reqpirements ot beauty. Unhesitatingly I reply that it can be done, always provided that the person is healthy, that the thinness arises from no disease such as atrophy of the tissues of the body, a malady which mainly supplies museums with their "living skele tons." This wasting disease is caused by want of healthy digestion and assimilation, which gradually deranges the blood glands so that they cease to form blood in quantity sufficient to nourish the body. Chestnuts and Champagne. Corpulence and fattening always originate in the way people live and eat. This was proved by a Dr. Chambers, surgeon to the Queen of England. He delivered a series of lectures upon corpulence in 1850, and un til 1863, when Banting's "Letter" ap peared, Chambers was the highest British authority upon this subject He cited the case of a thin young girl who was fed upon chestnuts and allowed to drink a good deal of champagne. In a short time she became enormously fat, but returned to her natural shape when permitted to resume a rational diet Liebig was of the opinion, based upon his experiments, that fat is formed directly from the starches and sugar eaten, and upon his authority it is stated that one's weight can be increased at the rate of a pound a week merely by eating five ounces of sugar daily. This does not mean by nsing it as a sweet ening to coffee or tea, but by eating it solid. More recent investigations than Lieheg's show clearly that the albumen (the floury part in corn, wheat and like grains, the fleshy part of the cocoanut, and so on) is the principal source of the fat stored in the body. This albumen, after it has reached the cells of the tissues, undergoes certain chemical changes by which part of it is converted into fat, and part goes to the nutriment of the tissue cells. The cells can elaborate fat from any kind of food, but far more readily from some kinds than from others. I offer herewith some sug gestions and give a list of articles of food chiefly farinaceous which a person desirous of increasing his weight should confine himself to at the table. Some Foods That Will Fatten. Sweet and Irish potatoes, sweet peas, beans, green corn, bread, tapioca, butter, liver, apples, arrowroot, barley, beets these are very fattening. Crackers (espec ially sweet), cakes carrots, grapes, gravies thickened with flour, the dressing of poul try, honey, maccaroni, oatmeal, parsnips, preserves and sweet fruits, rhubarb, sago puddings, all kinds of pastry, soup (thick ened like mock turtle), mush and milk and mush fried and battered, mince pies, pud dings of every kind, all fresh fruits, sweetened with cream, ice cream and sauces, broths and melted butter, a lump of which should be put into all vegetables and used freely upon Ibread. A person dieting for corpulence who eats only lean meats may be allowed a little butter, as some fat is needful to the system; but if eaten immoderately butter is exceed ingly fattening. Eice, tho'ugh popularly supposed to be flesh forming, is not really so it we may judge of its qualities by those thin races of rice eaters, the Hindoos and Chinese. Five articles of food may be said to be the foreordained means of building up fat They are bread and butter, milk, sugar and potatoes. If you would wax fat, eat candy, as much as the purse. can buy. Fanny Davenport blames the bonbon box for her obesity. Nothing of flesh, fish, fowl or fruit is forbidden to those in the pursuit of adi posity, but the oilier kinds of all eatables are to be preferred. Veal and pork rather than beef and mutton, goose and duck rather than turkey or chicken, and the oilier sorts of fish, such as eels and salmon. Eat only the yolks of eggs and all vegetables which contain sugar. Pumpkin, when made into pies, is very fattening. What Thin People Should Avoid. Do hot eat craaberries, lemons, lettuce, spinach, cabbage (except the red; but not pickled; no pickles or pickled viands are allowed). Asparagus and tomatoes are for the consumption ot the fat, not the lean, but to these are permitted cheese, lentils, all kinds of sweet and made dishes, rich gravies, tnicli sauces, commeai in all its numerous forms, salep, sago, succotash, sucking pigs, bananas and nuts of every kind that grow. Pleasant indeed are the ways that lead to corpulence. Its broad avenues may be named Eat street, Drink street, Sleep and Take your Ease street You may feast on boiled chestnuts, doughnuts, griddle and buckwheat cakes, molasses, pineapples and cocoanuts. Eat only sweet oranges and all preparations of chocolate. Coffee is allowed. It has no effect either to fatten or raducc in itself, but can be rendered fattening by adding an excess of milk and sugar. A cup of hot chocolate, with milk and sweetened, taken nightly at bedtime, ought to put flesh on a skeleton. At meals drink milk, the thicker with cream the better. Use no vinegar, acids or cider. Take no lemonade or tea. Milk punch is excel lent, but should be drunk sparingly. Shakes peare says that "use doth breed a habit in a man." He always knew what he was writ ing about, did Shakespeare. The daily re currence of anything is what fixes it into a habit Medicine taken one day and left off the next does no good,, effects nothing. So it follows that the fatening process, once be gun to be effective must be persisted in. Halt Liquors and Port Wines. A friend of mine who was lean to emacia ation had vainly tried to ''flesh up" when she was recommended to drink a schooner of lager beer every day with her luncheon. She tollowed this pleasant prescription, and by the end of a year she was so bulky that she was obliged to foreswear the beverage on account ot obesity. To the lean arc per mitted as drinks, champagne and other sparkling and sweet wines, especially port, whicli by the way is to blame as a rule for the obesity of English damea in high life. Sarah, Duchess ot Marlborough, dranK three glasses of port daily until her weight in creased out of all proportion to beauty. It will be seen by the above list that a mixed diet, containing plenty of fats and starches, a little more albumen than is needed to maintain the equilibrium of fat and flesh should be eaten by the thin, and the surplus of albumen fat ought soon to make itself apparent in the form of the eater. At the same time, gorging one's self should not be indulged in. It is unnec essary, and, indeed, detrimental to the de sired end. It, should be fully understood that in the kind of food, rather than in the quantity, is the cause of the formation ofj fat to be sought Weigh before beginning the fattening process and every week there after, being careful to wear the same amount of clothing on the scales.( Deter mine just how much fat you require for yvur size ana age ami De carciu iiuir n ex ceed it, for while a moderate reserve of fat is good to draw upon in time of sickness, a large amount of it endangers the life in many ways. Don't Overdo the Thing. Obesity once started in the svstem is apt to increase of itself and steadily progress until checked. Therefore, upon the appear ance of the first few pounds in excess of what you should veigh to be perfectly pro portioned, abandon the exclusively fatten ing diet. To grow stout gradually, which is the better way, you should lead a calm, quiet, inactive, sedentary existence. Phy sical exertion works off superfluous flesh. Inconsequence of the deprivation of exer cise convicts usually grow fat in prisen. Corpulence is almost unknown among pro fessional dancers and gymnasts and among the Arabs and other nomadic tribes. Keal mountaineers are never unduly fat, and wild animals are always lean, because theT live in a state of constant movement. Do not imitate them, but rather the lazy lapdog which sleeps much and eats more of dainty, sugared tidbits. , Exercise should be gentle and passive, rid ing rather than walking. If you would in crease your adiposity, let the street car, which is a few paces off, go past without you. Quietly and contentedly wait for the next one. Patronize the elevator; when yon must go up stairs take your time. Never bathe in water hot enoash to cause perspir ation. Keep cool, for the mind has much to do with getting fat, as well as in other mat ters. All the old-time proverbs upon this subject refer to the mind more than to the body, such as "laugh and grow fat," "Eat, drink and be merry," not walk, jump, run and row and grow fat, but laugh and sleep. Sleep all you can, and cultivate the practice of taking forty winks anywhere and every where. Above all, do not lie awake orpace the floor o' nights worrying about things. "Let the other man walk." Water Isn't Good for the Lean. Finally, drink no ice water. Drink as little water as possible. You will be sur prised to find how small a quantity is really required to satisfy the thirst Water in creases the size by bloating the body. Lager acts measurably in the same way. The increase caused by it is not owing to healthy flesh. It is hardly possible to give any idea of just how long it will take to fatten a person while following out the rules here laid down, as temperament and heredity differ so in individuals. One may have an inherited tendency to corpulence and fatten speedily, while all efforts will seem to fail with those to whom leanness is a birthright Only two things can be positively stated about the fattening process. The first is that women are more disposed to corpulence than men because men, lead, as a rule, more active outdoor lives than women. The second is that after 40 when everyone is said to be either a fool or a doctor both sexes "take on" flesh more easily than be fore that age. A little attention to dress, with a view either to increase or decrease the appear ance of the real bulk, should be given by those afflicted with adjposity or the reverse. In costuming the thin have the advantage over the fat. A lean man can hide hi3 ema ciation under loose pantaloons and large, easy fitting coats. The "skeleton dude," whose face is not gaunt, wears in the streets big garments, large coats, padded about the chest and shoulders so that he appears only a little thinner than the rest of mankind, ana not tne living skeleton he is really. "Bernhardt's Awful Kesponsibillty. Bernhardt is as great a genius in devising costumes as she is in acting, but her ingenu ity is entirely expended in trying to deceive the eyes as to her thinness. To hide her flail like arms she introduced the wrinkled glove reaching to the shoulder. To her nar-n row snoulders we owe the hideous leg o mutton sleeve, and to her long, gaunt limbs and skeleton irame generally are due the thousand and one variations in draped skirts that have been rushed in and out of fashion for the last dozen or more .years. We have to thank her for the bustle and hip draper ies. One monstrosity alone she has spared us the hoop skirt With all her strivings after the appearance of plumpness Sarah has novel ideas and an eye to tne graceful and beautiful, but her creations are ludicrous when worn without modification by women whose too solid flesh will not melt nor be squeezed out of sight by tight lacing. Whata picture a squat, podgy woman looks attired in the fashions of this year of our Lord, 181)1 1 The short, full Medici cloak, which, falling just below the waist line, cuts the form in two, as it were, giving the effect of an Irish peasant's "short gown," breaking and shortening the line of the form, when the sought for effect should be long, sweeping and unbroken. Stout ladies, let me entreat you to shake out a reef in the skirt so as to give the lower limbs room to move about without tugging at and straining tne tetner ot tape in tne rear of the dress. Let the waist be at least loose enough to be fastened without the aid of a button hook. I fear me much that the ranks of the female dress reformers will be mainly recruited from those whose lanki cess alone would make trousers appropriate wear and then may I not be there to see the army of the "lean and slippered panta loon." Celia Logait. PREPARATION OF SAUCES. No Branch of Cookery Requires More Skill and Patience What High Authorities Have to Say Iteclpes for Some Good Ones Helps for Toung Housekeepers. WMTTEX FOB THE DISFATCH. In the domain of cookery there is no branch more important than that pertaining to the making of sauces. Commonly sauce making is regarded as something easy to learn, and requiring little skill or judg ment But the best cooks do not think so, and in the works of the masters of the art one is impressed with the care and consci entiousness with which they treat the sub ject, and above all with the skillful manipu lations which they regard as necessary to produce the most simple sauces. Mr. Theodore Child, an American writer with whom many readers have become familiar from his "Summer Holidays," has lately given the public a small but exquisite volume on gastronomy. In this he gives under, various topics (tersely discussed and commented upon) apt quotations from well known writers on the same topio in tha No Deception There is no deception in Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts, Lemon, Vanilla, Orange, etc., Every bottle is full measure, natural color, free from ethers, acids, and poisonous oils, so concen trated, a small quantity gives the desired flavor. t They are not put into the market to compete in price with those -of a low grade ancl inferior quality. Their su perior excellence has stood the test of a quarter-century. No Pastry, Creams, or Cakes so fine and delicate as those flavored with Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts. 19 NEW ADTEETISE3EEST8. ILL PAPER. WE TAKE STOCK JULY 1. GREAT REDUCTION! During June. Wm. Tnnkle & Co. S-5tX -MVood St. my31-sn lorm of aphorisms, proverbs or epigrams. These extracts are short and pointed, and he favored the method from an ardent desira that the sentiments thus conveyed would be in this manner more readily recognized and better retained both bv those who cook and by those who eat From his chapteron sauces we have taken the extract which follows. It will be observed that he differs very much from those who imagine that the making of sauces implies but little mora than the mixing together and the cooking of certain ingredients: The Delicacy of Sauce Slaking'. Fine Hollandaise sauce and line- sauce blancbe are both exceedingly simple In their composition and both great tests of a cook's skill. Then, why do we so rarely find them well made? This problem is as mysterious as the rarity of good dinners on this earth. Cookery, eHpecially when we enter tha domain of sances, i a very delicate art. ro- 3 niiing tho exercise of many qualities of elicate perception. The cook who makes a perfect sauce Blanche must take pleasure in his art and perform every detail of tha operation with extreme attention, vibrating over his saucepan as a painter vibrates over his picture, delicately sensitive to the changes of consistency which take place as the flour and butter become transmitted into a velvety liquid that lia to the eye an aspect as of the surface of line porcelain, close in texture, exquisite in glaze. To the testimony of Theodore Child I add that of Dubois-Bernard, another great authority, who, among other things, says: A man is never a great cook if he does not possess a perfect knowledge of sauces, and if ho has not mide a special study of tho methodical principles on which their perfection depends. Tw o causes contribute to the imperfection of sauces defective knowledge or defective materials. Boqueplan, one of the highest in the pro fession, is not satisfied with giving directions as to how sauces should be made, but ha gives points as to serving them. "Nothing," said he, "is more ugly than a sauce seen la the sunlight." And'this is one among tha reasons eiven why the true gourmet eats by candle light avoiding breakfast parties, lunches, high teas, picnics and analagous solecisms. White Sauce and Cream Sauce. Juliet Carson the friend of the young and inexperienced housekeeper who has made the world better for the knowledge she has imparted by her useful lectures on economical cooking, gives minute directions in the following receipe for making good, plain sauces such as are used every day is mo3t families: For a quart of sauce put over thellroina thick saucepan two heaping tablespoonfuls ofdryflourand two tablespoonfuls of butter, and stir them constantly until the butter melts and is smoothly blended with the flour; then begin to uso a quart of boiling water, adding it to the butter and flonr by tho half cupful, and stirring each portion smoothly with the sauco beforo adding anymore; if this direction is followed the sauco will bo free from lumps; when tll the water has been smoothly stirred with the butter and" flour, season tue sauce palatably with salt, white pepper and very little trrated nutmeg, and let boil for a moment. The sance should ba thick enough to coat a spoon dipped into It, but by no means pasty. The cooking of tha butter and llour obviates any taste ot raw flour. With half water and half milk tha sauce is richer; all milk makes cream sauce. Melted Butter. Many young housekeepers in making' melted, or drawn butter, often find it so lumpy that straining Is necessary before it can be sent to tho table. To prevent thia molt the butter first, then add the flour, which will readily blend with it. Add boil ing water, with salt to taste, and stir over the fire until it thickens. Tomato Sance. Tomato sauce may ba readily made by adding to a half pint of ketchup a gill of soup Btock, well reduced, and a teaspoonfnl of flour dlssolvod in water. Simmer until thick. Flain Cnrry Sauce. Put two ounces of fresh butter into a stw pan, with a little more than an ounce of llour and a good tablespoonful of curry paste or powder: knead well togethor, then add a little shred carrot, celery and onions; moisten with a pint of well reduced con somme; stir the sauce over tho Are until it boils, and keep it boiling for 20 minutes; pass through a sieve and keep in tha bain marie or water bath until needed. How to Prepare Peas. In the time of Queen Elizabeth peas were brought from Holland. It was observed by Thomas Fuller, tho English divine and author, that they wero "lit dainties for ladles they came so far and cost so dear." Peas when young and fresh maintain their flavor, sweetness and crlspness if simply boilcdinsaltand water. After draining them, stir in a pat of the sweetest and freshest but ter, salt to taste and add a little black pep per, rich in fragrance, J ust from tho mill. Hints to the Household. To avoid commg npon hard pieces ofpo tatoes, pass them through a fine sieve after they are boiled. Setose using paper cases for cooking they should be ailed throughout with fine salad oil. Choose nutmegs by weight Tha heavies are the best On removing fish from loa it should ba cooked immediately. White soups have for their basis -real stock instead of beef. Elliot Szbexa. Stop at the Hollenden, in Cleveland American and European plans. su
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers