THE PITTSBURG JMHPATOH, SUNDAY; iFEBEfaABY "23; 1891; EO t af jte 9 I i If DRESSING UTTLE FOLK. Bints for Uie Opening ot Spring Prom the Counters Axinio de Montaigne The Proper Jewelry for Both Tonne and Old The Bustle In I'nrls. As the days grow longer there is a fore shadowing of spring, and during the peni tential season of Lent, when one is suppos ably mortifying the flesh, careful mothers find leisure to attend to the -wants of the little ones, -writes the Countess Annie de 3f ontaigue to The Dispatch. The spring fabrics are, opened just after the holidays, so the careiul housewife may early make her selections. For the coming days, when the air grows balmier and the wintry gowns and wraps must be exchanged for lighter ones, there are a number of 'pretty conceits for clothing baby, his toddling brother and His 12-year-old sister. For half-grown girls there is nothing peculiarly distinctive, as they wear the tailor jackets and the big hats of eccentric shape and of scarcely less diminutive size than those ot grown-up Maude, who has just made h:r debut in society. Canvas cloth is a new weave of which is made the pretty and convenient reefer and the long ulsterette which is just the For a Budding Beaut. thine for school as it covers the worn dress which has seen service during the winter. A charming coat ot light checked camels hair in Newmarket shape has big buttons of smoted pearl and an officer's cape'thrown over the shoulder and held by a long steel buckle. Another coat is of ocean blue can vas cloth edged with gilt braid and tied at the neck with a golden cord terminating in spikes. The tan and beige colors predom inate in cloaks and jackets and also the plain grays, natural iiomespuns and light weight vicuna cloths, which are among the most favored materials and plain cloth, diagonal and chuddah. The big button mania has also spread to young people's jackets, and some of the pearl buttons are very ornate, being beauti fully carved and necessarily expensive. Vel vet, ottoman and bengaline sleeves are used, and for children who are all elbows, it is a very economical fashion, as the worn sleeve can'be replaced without the bother of get ting an exact match. A novelty in the photographic line is the silhouette, an extremely dark profile of the face against a pure white background. It is exactly the opposite of a style that pre- ailed somewhat a lew years ago a profile in a strong light against a very dark back ground. Slippers and Oxford ties are often worn by children, but prudence suggests the high laced or buttoned shoe, which supports the ankle of the growing child which is apt to be displaced by the turning under of the loot so likely to happen, when the girl or boy's foot is unsupported. The unformed loot should never be too highly compressed; a shoe that is too small does not eventually make the foot any smaller, and it is a well known fact that the extremities in young people seem all out of proportion , to their tjie. Let the shoe fit every part of the body equally, for if it does not,' a badlv formed For the School Boom. foot, with accompanying corns and bunions will inevitably result. One often sees very small children in the rooms of a chiropodist, their little feet disfigured by the excrescences which seem out of place in childhopd. Again, but scant attention is paid to chil dren's hands, hence ill-formed fingers, nails bitten down to the qnickand rough chapped hands. The mother or nurse shonld attend regularly to the children's nails, and about once a week it is a good idea to employ the services of a professional manicure who will com. to the bouse for a small emolument. F'Pwffi Tee bias stripe is in do sense out, and the tartan plaid is always a popular style for little girls' dresses as well as the kilts of boys up to 10 years of age. Below is an example of the extravagant shapes of the flat-crowned hats now so pop ular. This particular style, says The Season, is made of coffee brown felt, the inside of the brim being cream colored worked with fine gold threads. A green velvet A Sat for the Season. stripe goes round the edge, and a rosette ot the same and brown and cream colored feathers form the trimming. "When covered with a brown veil thickly set with cbenille dots the hat is less conspicuous and can be worn in the street, but for visiting wear the veil may be dispensed with. SlSnakes and asps, dragon-flies, spiders, daggers and swords are foremost among the ingredients for smart bonnets, says Miss Mantilini in Pall Mall Budget. J. saw a black lace bonnet with a great, glittering gold snake -wreathed about the brim. A milliner who .has recently been in Paris tells me that snakes and asps are the popular ornaments there. Lace enters largely into the construction of spring bonnets. A prettv rustic hat had the crown half smothered with greenery. Bather garish colors are to the fore in millinery at present gold, light blue and magenta-pink. One often sees a snake lying half hidden among the flowers of a bonnet. A becoming model, fresh from Paris, is of reseda green velvet with a soft and dainty trimming of lace round the edge, and a couple of silver spiders crawling about the crown. Many of the swords worn on bonnets are studded with mock gems. Brooches are still worn small. The new est is the model of a lizard in diamonds. Oriental jewelry has a beauty all its own. Carbuncles, topazes, aquamarinas and other cheap stones, despised by the jewelers, have a charming effect when rudely set in oxi dized silver, says Pall Mall Budget. A love ly necklace is of pink topazes and aquama rinas, and' costs 7 10s. In Oxford street are necklaces formed of tigers' claws. A pair of claws bound together by a silver knot makes a pretty brooch. A rupee mounted as a brooch only costs a few shillings. Indian earrings are very gorgeous, and more than two inches long. The accompanying illustration shows the front of a reception toilette with a corselet that promises to be popular. Reception Toilette With Corselet. It sets off the figure nicely, and can be made to Bhpw great richness without the use of material that comes at extravagant prices. One of the most graceful sleeves seen is made of a fall of lace touching the elbow on the outside and rising on the inside in a double jabot to the shoulder, where it is held by an ornament. The parting of the sleeve prettily reveals the upper arm. If desired the lace may be caught together with jeweled clasps or tiny bows of ribbon. The fair are enthusing over good healthy complexions. Last season the alabaster hue had the precedence, but the complexions do not propose standing still while all other fads are progressing, consequently those that previously had the milky white skin are doing their utmost to bring a tinge of color to their cheeks. Some ladies think soap is injurious when used upon the face. This is a mistaken idea. It has -a tendency to keep the pores open, and if used daily will free the skin from eruptions. It is also necessary to rub the face good after washing to obtain a good clear complexion. Creams and liquids generally are damaeincr. though they do for the time being what they are ad- yenisea to ao. ixooa powner is not injurious if one washes the face before retiring. Plenty of fresh air is more beneficial than .aught else. Bay rum, glycerine and rose water keep the skin from being chapped. Shoulder capes are still destined to hold their own, and will be worn almost as universally as they were in the fall; velvet will be the material mostly chosen for these jaunty creations. " For wee tots the finest cloaks are of otto man or bengaline silk, made with the French back and the loose pleated or gathered 'front. The handsomest are . silk-lined and -have si liMitmwiJI Wi A enormous pearl buttons and big fall sleeves, with velvet collars and cuffs. Silver gray, pale brown aniEdison bine are among the preferred colors. A charming garment for a brown-eyed 2-year-old baby is of delicate brown ottoman, the skirt set onto the waist in'big box pleats 'lined with silver feather edge braid; these pleats are tacked down "and form great loose rosettes which fall over the skirt. Neatness and suitability are two of the factors to he observed in the dressing of children, and she is a wise mother who can preserve the means between lurbelowed finery and unbecoming severity. The charm of a private dinner is simply that it is private. "Why, then, allow Us charm and sacredness to he destroyed by anything so obviously brought into exist encejby;the people and for the people as the menu? asks the New Tork Timet, A menu is a "bill of fare." The use of the French word is an affectation; that, language, how ever, lends itself to the cause of cooks, as well as it does to that of courts. "When the foreign word appears at the top of the card in place of the English one, the affectation continues through the list. Soup is bouil lon, consomme, puree, potage. A common stew is ragout. One from meat or game or fish, already cooked, is salmi. Side dishes are entrees. A pie is vol-au-ventorpate. Be sides, dishes are a la this or that, according to the preparation and ingredients Thus are our dishes disguised. In adopting the masquerade we pay tribute to French cook ing, which is at once the most delicate and economical, but we enlighten only a few in the fundamentals of gastronomy. The habit of giving babies and young children rings is an absurd one, as the ring soon becomes too tight and ruins the shape of the finger, says Countess Annie de Montaigne. A pin, bracelet or anything is better than a ring, which if it is loose enouch the little one Is sure to lose. Juvenile jewelry, if worn at all, shonld be extremely simple, and all ornaments set with precious stones are in extremely bad taste. The foolish mothers who send their girls to school loaded with trinkets, display, to say the least, very questionable taste, and this 'custom is apt to foster vanity and a longing for meretricious display. A little silver watch, which inculcates a habit of punctuality, a few silver bangles and a sim ple pin are all sufficient for the wants of the schoolgirl. It is somewhat early to touch upon spring headgear, bnt the picturesque large hats, the leghorn flops and the sweet little sunbonnets of shirred mull wilL not be abandoned. The close shapes are the best for babies in arms, the French cap being the accepted model; it is made of very fine needle-work.edged with real val, and with perhaps a rosette of nar row baby ribbon in front and wider strings that tie beneath the chin. Among the striking illustrations of cos tumes in a late .Harper's Bazar is the one here reproduced. It shows the front of a broche silk gown. It is described as ex tremely pretty and not beyond the reach of ordinary pocketbooks. The bath sachet is usually thrown into baby's bath tub; it is compounded ot bran, almond meal, castile soap and orris, and im parts a delicious perfume to the water, tak ing the place of soap. Violet and rose sachet bags seem to belong to infancy, tbe sweet baby smell imparted by the delicate scent which is strewn among the baby clothes inclosed in hampers and bureau drawers. For christening gifts silver is the usual offering. In lien of the candle cup, which once was the invariable present from the god-parent, fashion has decreed the presen tation of silver spoons; on the anniversary another spoon is sent, so that .when the re cipient has attained a round dozen years, he or she is in possession of just as many spoons. After the teaspoons have been ex hausted, tablespoons or forks may be given; if the girl remains unmarried beyond the usual marriageable period, such a custom might become quite a tax upon the god papa and god-mama. As a boy is not sup posed to have any use for such "things, it is usual to present him with a gold coin on each anniversary with which to commence a bank account. "I always go to nature, "Jsaid Worth, speaking of colors, "for my combinations; there is no surer guide. Not in flowers so much, they aro apt to be gaudy, as a rule, although I have made some beautiful things with their help; but in stones, lichens, the bartc of trees, the combinations of tints are wonderful and may be taken as unfailing guides." Orange velvet ribbon and black lace are combined in this bonnet, from Sarper's Bazar. Black. lace is thickly pleated at the front of the net frame, and drawn twice along the sides, .each time headed by an The Spring' Beauty. orange velvet ribbon studded with jet nail heads. A tuft of small black ostrich tips, with an aigrette, trims 'the crown. Behind it the orange strings are attached under a' bow of the same. AMI KSS&ii&zM, 4V3?siw ill um V-M K- -Mlr II ,- ; i BESTOWING THE DOT. Prominent Washington Women i)is ,cuss the Marriage Portion, HOW FOREIGNERS PROFIT BY IT. Mrs. Senator Carey Draws a Pretty Picture of Wyoming Happiness. FK0N0UXCED A KELIC OP BAKBAE1SU tCOEEESPONDKKCK OT THE DISPATCH.! "Washington, Feb. 21. Should Amer ican girls have dowries? Should we settle a portion upon our daughters at marriage? These questions I have asked of some of the most noted society ladies during the past week, and I find their answers interesting in the extreme. I first called upon Mrs. Sen ator John Sherman. She said: "I am in favor of dowries for our daugh ters, though I do not think the matter should be a compulsory one, as it is in France. I believe, however, that both hus band and wife are all the happier from the possession of means of their own, and every parent who values his daughter's best hap piness will not hesitate to endow her upon the event of her marriage. I have often ex pressed this sentiment in our family, and I believe that no father, should he possess sufficient means, is justified in placing his child in a position where she will be en tirely dependent upon the whims of another. How a Count Got 810,000 a Tear. "Nevertheless, I know," continued Mrs. Sherman, "of any number of instances in which the system has proved rather disas trous. You may probably have heard of the marriage of Miss Gordon, of Cleveland, O., to Count Vilain, of Belgium. The affair created quite a sensation at the time, as Miss Gordon was a beautiful girl, and the only child of a millionaire, who was violently op posed to his daughter wedding a foreigner. The parents opposed the match for awhile, and made every effort to draw their child out of the way of temptation. The lover, how ever, was not to be thwarted, and when the affair became unavoidable, the parents de termined to make the best of it. "A meeting was arranged with the lover for the purpose of signing the settlements, and when the preliminaries were being dis cussed, the amount of the 'dot' became a subject of considerable controversy. At length the father asked what money the Count's family intended to bestow upon him. This question rather staggered the young man, who hastened to explain that no such custom prevailed in his country so far as the husband was concerned. Blade the Connt Shell Oat. '"Very well, then,' added Mr. Gordon. 'Unless you can show an equal amount, either in money or lands, you cannot have my daughter.' "After considerable cabling and much discussion, the question was finally settled by the consent of the Count's father to transfer to his son property valued at 100, 000. Not until then would the millionaire agree to the demand, and he immediately settled a life interest upon the young couple of 510.000 a year, 10 per cent of the amount conferred upon the groom. Three years afterward the wife died, and to-day the widower continues to receive the annnal allowance agreed upon from his father-in-law, notwithstanding the fact of his second marriage. "I might quote other instances of a similar character," Mrs. Sherman went on, "but they would all go to prove that foreigners seldom overlook the all-important 'dot' in a question of marriag with an American girl, no matter how fondly they may love the woman." She Lovod Another. "You are doubtless familiar," continued Mrs. Sherman, "with Lucy Hooper's advice to her countrywomen? In one of her letters written from abroad after her marriage, she thus forcibly pnts the case: 'My dear young American sisters, if you must havea pet, purchase a spaniel, but never buy a French count," "Miss Hooper's father, as Consul at Paris, had many curious experiences brought to his notice in his official capacity, not the least original of which was the case of a young wife whose fancy had been en thralled, like many another American girl's, by the glitter. of a title. One day while seated at his desk he was interrupted by the entrance of a lady who feelingly explained that her husband, a Frenchman, had in formed her that by tbe laws of France, which require the piesence ot the resident foreign Minister or at least the Consul at the ceremony to insure the legality of the contract, their marriage did not hold good in his own country, and she could no longer claim his allegiance as a husband. Mr. Hooper very gently explained that un fortunately there did exist such a law. To his astonishment his visitor delightedly ex claimed: 'Then it is all true as he said, and I am free to marry whom I choose. I am so glad, for there is another whom I love very dearlyl' Mrs. Fostmaster General TVanamaker. Mrs. Wanamaker having spent several years in foreign travel is fitted to express intelligent views on this subject.. She said: "I think it should be entirely optional, not compulsory, as it is abroad. I recall the case of a wealthy Frenchman who had three wedded daughters, upon each of which he had bestowed a 'dot far in excess of his private means. Two of his sons-in-law had been taken into partnership with him, and in consequence he had impoverished him self, when otherwise he would have been rich in this world's goods. "Many American girls possess independent means and their mture is provided for with out additional endowment. As to eirls not so situated, I hardly think that any man of means wouia care to permit bis daughter to leave her home unendowed, and thereby place her in a position of comparative de pendence." It Flavors of Barbarism. Mrs. Noble says: "I do not like the idea of giving dowries. I. think them degrading and a relic o: a barbaric age. When tbe subject is looked at in its true light it de generates into a mere question of 'barter.' Among Indian tribes the habit is always to pay down "a bounty or purchase monev, either in lands or an equal value in bead's, skins or wampum, upon the choice of a bride from among the dusky daughters of the nation. If tbe maiden be well favored and possessed of superior attractions, the money is paid over by the groom into the hands of the father, and tire young girl be comes a wife with all the show and cere mony of early barbaric custom. Should the maid be ill favored or devoid of personal charms, a handsome sum is paid by the parent as a bonns thrown in after the man ner of a chromo, to equalize the bargain. "On the other hand, a father possessed of any means would be unreasonable-to permit his child to enter into the matrimonial state empty-handed, more especially should the man of her choice be possessed of a moder ate income and steady business habits. A fair start in life is the secret of a successful future and many men are too often hamp ered in tfteir youth by the burden of family expenses that cripple their best efforts, at a time when a little discreet financial aid would set tbem afloat upon the sea of success with favorable winds to waft their bark." Mrs. Carlisle on Happy Marriages. Mrs. Carlisle expresses short but decided views in favor of the dowry. Said she : "A woman should always possess means of her own if she expects to enjoy a perfectly con genial wedded life. Even the most generous of hnsbands often overlook the smaller needs of a household that form so important a factor in the general comfort and happi ness, and very few women care to be con stantly making petty demands upon their husbands, preferring more often to go with out a necessity rather than annoy a man bv little importunities of this kind; until at length alack of mutual confidence engtn . drs misunderstandings thatprove the be ginning of serious estrangements. It is the same thing over again as that brought out in the allowance system, and if the wife pos sesses independent means the wheels of domestic machinery run smoothly forward without jar or hindrance. By all means give your daughters a wedding portion 'should your fortune permit, and do not thrust her from the parental nest unsupplied with necessary protection from future want," Mrs. McPherson, wife of the Senator from New Jersey, has spent much of her life in foreign travel, and probably there are few corners of the world which at one time or another she has not visited. She most em phatically approves of the giving of dowries if the parent can afford it. A Case in Point. "The recent marriage of Miss Audenreid and Count Devonne, of France," said Mrs. McPherson. "is another instance of title allying with solid American gold. Every one, of course, knows that the Count was head over ears in love with his bride, but the main chance was not overlookedand the dowry was satisfactorily settled in com pliance with the French law before the con tract was sealed at the altar. The amountof Miss Audenreid's income is variously esti mated from $4,000 to $8,000, to which her mother has added a 'dot' of several thousand more out of her handsome fortune, that will in all probability revert eventually to her daughter." Mrs. "Wolcott ardently espoused the oppo site view. Mrs. Wolcott went on to explain that she considered domestic happiness bet ter secured by total dependence on the part of the wife. She said: "In every male breast there lives a spark of latent chivalry that is sure to be called forth by the demand for protection on the part of the weaker ves sel, and his manly pride is roused by the de mand upon his rightful sovereignty over those who are dependent upon his strength, just as the very dependency of -an infant claims our natural love and care. One thing, however, I have noticed is that the wife of a Frenchman is far more respected in the light of counselor to her husband than with us." How It Is In Wyoming. The wife of Senator Carey of Wyoming is one of the handsomest among the ladies of the Senatorial circle, a typical Western woman, possessed of all tbe independence and self-reliant spirit engendered by a life spent in an atmosphero of progressive suffrage that in no way detracts from the dignity and tenderness of her nature as wife and mother. She holds independent views differing from those held by Mrs. Wolcott. She advocates equality of individual rights in the matter of fortune as in all other re speots. She said: "I am firmly convinced that married life is always the happier for the possession of means on the side of the wile. No one has a happier or more congenial wedded life than mine or a more lavishly indulgent partner, yet for that very'reason I often re frain from making demands udou his purse. In no State in the 0mon are women more highly honored or more connubially happy than in Wyoming, simply for the reason that the laws of universal suffrage there pre vail in a perfected state, and as a rule men hold their wives in a higher degree of re spect and look upon them as their equals in all things. There are fewer cases of divorce and fewer domestic discords, besides which the laws of women's suffrage are productive of greater fairness in regard to wages. The pay of a woman in every trade and pro fession is the same as that of a man per forming equal labor. This law also ex tends to The Right of Inheritance. "Should a man die intestate worth less than $10,000, the entire amount goes to his widow. Should his fortune be larger, the half of the sum to any amount is hers, the. remaining half to be divided among the children; the same rule holding good when the money comes through the woman." "Speaking of the advantage of independent means," Mrs. Carey" continued, "recalls the case'of a friend out West who married a man of a terrible "jealous nature and who illy concealed his dislike of the spirit of in dependence engendered in his wife by the possession.of an annual allowance from her lather. At length he determined to settle the matter and called upon his father-in-law with the request that the allowance be dis continued in order that upon him alone must his wife learn to depend. Such "in stances are, however, of rare occurrence, and the majority of husbands are far better satis fied to feel that their helpmeet possesses a protection from sudden reverses of fortune should a financial crash occur or sudden death remove their lawful protection." Miss Gkundy, Je. WIHTEE SP0ET IN BEELIK. Pick-Sleighing Is One of the Odd, but Popu lar Ice Pastimes. St. Louis Fost-Dlspatch.1 This novel sport is called pick-sleizhing or pick-eoasting on the ice in Berlin, and the name is undoubtedly derived from the two long poles, or picks, that must be used in connection with it.These poles are provided at the end with strong, iron points, and are thrust backward onto the ice, thus propel ing the sled, so that it spins along rapidly over tbe smooth surface. Expert riders have developed an unusual rapidity in this novel sport that is simply astounding, and surpasses the efforts of the best bicycle riders. It is no easy matter to remain in standing position on so frail a craft, and hundreds of ludicrous accidents occur, of course, but it is a family snort, nevertheless, and has gained great favor also with tbe ladies. SHEEHAH'S HTOGBY SOLDKBS. How They Snatched Vp a Dinner at Which He Had Just Sat Down. iwbittkn ran the dispatch, i" Mr. J. C. Jamison, of the East End, tells an interesting story of Sherman's march to the sea. For 18 days tbe meu had been on quarter rations, and on this particular morning they took up their weary march without any breakfast. Along about noon they came to a pretty plantation presided over by a cultured and wealthy adherent of the lost cause. His mansion was palatial, and everything the eye beheld betokened plenty. Visions of a square meal arose before the tired boys in blue, and those in the van quickened their pace and soon were on a dead run for the house. Mr. Jamison was something of a sprinter in those days, and was the first to reach tbe house. He dashed through tbe kitchen and headlong into the dining room, but no sooner had he passed the door than he stopped, transfixed with horror. Before him sat General Sherman and some of bis staff officers, tbe guests of the house. Before them was a steaming dinner. Anticipating instant arrest, Mr.' Jamison tried to retreat, but the hungry hosts blocked the way. They shoved him forward, and a brawny hand reached over bis shoulder and seized a savory spring chicken. That was as a signal, and in an instant the groaning table was stripped of everything edible. "General I" shouted the outraged expo neat of Southern chivalry, "do you stand silently by and see me thus plundered ?" "Yes," quietly responded General Sher man. "The boys are hungry. They have been on quarter rations for 18 days, and we are living off the country. I gness they need the dinner worse than we do." Fick Sleighers. IN WOMAN'S SPHERE. Edmund fiusseH's Popularity and tbe Achievements of Men IN COOIIKG AHD DRESSMAKING Show That the Fair Ones Have Been Beaten . at Their Own Game. RIGHT lm.NG IX TUB UIGUT PUCi; IWsrrTXH FOE THE DISPATCH. It is strange that the latest oracle as to the dress and adornment of women should be a man. But what is stranger still is that since tbe days of Eve women have not known how to dress themselves according to the correct principles of taste or high art. They have gone blindly along for centuries piled on centuries dressing themselves ac cording to the fool fashions of the time re gardless of beauty, harmony or fitness. A recent writer npon the subject says: "Dress originated in theaesire for ornament rather than as a protection, from cold." nuthe evidently forgets that the first ar ticles of dress were devised and designed by Adam and Eve, because they were ashamed of themselves for being such fools as to eat the forbidden fruity However, ever since that fatal day the world has been mostly made up of fools, as their dress very plainly shows in its stupidity and lack of appropri ateness. Edmund Bussell tells us that "modern dress has no beauty of line, design, texture, or color. It hides all the plastic beauty of the figure, and robs it of freedom of ex pression." Artists generally are outspoken in their condemnation of the present style of dress with its stiffness and restrictions, but it seems certainlr clear that men, at least, have reached a degree of simplicity and adaptation for the business of life. Better Than Our Ancestors. How the ancient Greeks and Romans got around in their togas 'must be a mystery to the business men of to-day. Life to them must have been slow and easy. Contemplate the men of Wall street flying around in togas looking like Salvini on the stage. Imagine- the iron barons and silver kings and cattle magnates getteng down to busi ness with an armful of toga on the left arm and holding up their gowns out of the mud with the right hand. The only men who can wear gowns nowa days for business are the Supreme Judges, who only need to sit around and look wise. If they had to wear their Mother Hubbards on the street. they might somewhat resemble the picturesque old Bomans, but, great Ctesarl how "hopping mad" they would be when it rained, and their togas got drag gled. The dress of women in the heroic age is continually cited as the most beautiful for women, but such dress was designed per haps as most suitable for seclusion. Greek women who had any regard for their repu tation were keepers at home, and never ap peared at table, even in their own houses, in the presence of strangers. By the customs of the day the Greet women w.ere shut up in the back rooms. For such privacy the loose toga, or flowing wrapper, were manifestly most comfortable. The Dress of Classic Days. With all their artistic taste and refinement it never occurred to the ancient Greeks to make their wives their companions. They found these not among the strictly virtuous Penelopes, but with the Aspasias. In those classical times both men and women wore the tunic and the toga, which allowed free dom of the muscles and ease of motion. They were not trussed up as in these days with stiff collars and glove fits. Loose, lovely, esthetic comfortable gowns would be a boon indeed for women, at least; bnt when we look at tbe picture of Cornelia or Penel ope, and contemplate the girls of to-day in such like classical robes slishing and slash ing aronnd the kitchens, we would rather prefer neat short tidy wrappers and white aprons. Of course Mr. Russell's ideas of beauty and grace would be not only charming, but instructive, if the women of society could spend their time in getting themselves up according to the beautiful ideals of Venus of Milo or Helen of Tro'y, in devoting them selves to a study-of the harmony of colors and the divers effects of light and shade, or in giving their minds to a study of dress and development, but he surely knows that life is too short for most of them to take hold of anything in the line of reform save as a fashionable fad, that comes to-day, and is oft to-morrow. If women would give themselves up to such physical culture as would pro duce tbe perfect'and harmonious play of all the powers of the body, and thus fashion it into something like what nature intended it to be, if they shonld make up their minds to train their children sensibly rather than fashionably, if they should devote them selves to the "highest art works of the indi vidual the making of a home," as Mr. Rus sell, puts it what would become of the mis sionary meetings to answer the "calls" from Greenland's icy mountains and India's coral strand? Stylo Will Bo the Winner. Delsarte's system may have every merit claimed for it, bnt the women of society will likely-all 'grow sallow and wrinkled and careworn and cross for neel of it rather than give up being "stylish." The gospel of beauty and health which; it preaches, like that of love, will find among tbem much of stony ground. Blind eyes, deaf ears, a per verse and stiff-necked generation will be as insensible to its teachings as to the beautv of holiness which has been set forth for hun dreds of years. But still there isprogress. Fashion seems to go round in a circle, and in the coune of a bundred"years has got back to the Empire gowns and styles of Napoleon's days; but, taken, all together, the world seems to he moving on. to the' good time coming. The gospel of common sense and the- eternal fitness of things as preached by Edmund Bussell is gaining ground. If proof were needed that the world is fast letting go of some of the old standards and superstitions and ideals It would be found in the fact that men are taking hold of matters that were once considered the peculiar province of women, while the latter are reaching out for tbe preserves once held sacred to men. Poets and famous artists are bringing their genius and powers of mind to house decora tion, dress, table service and the fine art of cookery. The beautiful dinner given by the Pittsburg .Press Club to the women of the press at the Duquesne' Club house a few days ago, profoundly impressed us with the powers of men as cooks, and caterers, and table servers. The beauty and daintiness of the decora tions showed the soul of a poet and tbe skill and eye of an artist. We did not master the details as did some who were present and can hardly tell what it was altogether that produced the harmony of tone and beauty of effect, but suffice it to say the table pre sented a picture with which neither Buskin nor Bussell could find fault on the score of estbeticism and which would seem to have carried out Russell's scheme of color in "luminous white," "spiritual yellow" and "tender green." The cooking wjs without reproach. It is to be doubted if royal banquet were ever better and mark you all this was the work of men. Men In Women's Places. Upon consideration of the beauty mani fested the excellence of the cookinz and the beneficient effect upon mind and body it was impossible to fall short of the conclu sion th at-for such work men were most emi nently fittedj that instead of usurping tbe domain ot women in this matter they were only finding, mayhap, the sphere where their talents would find freest scope and best expression. Among barbaric nations, where men were chiefly engaged in fighting, this work developed upon women, but as civili zation advances, as art and culture come into prominence, as the talent of many men find recognition In such field, it seems plain that in course of time the laws of real growth will he better understood and the soul of man will find harmonious expressions in the kitchen, the dining room and, we may us well add, housekeeping. If, as has hitherto been held, such is the heaven-ordained sphere of women, it is a humiliating reflection that they have been beaten at their own game that the "im mortal few" cooks who have achieved fame have been men, and that the prizes and laurels of the science and art of cooking are falling into their hands with a certainty that upsets the old theory. A woman may out'do the senior -wrangler at Cambridge University, as did Miss Fawcctt, she may capture the prize for Greek verse, at Har vard, she may reach fame as a De Stael or a George Eliot, she may bold power as did Elizabeth of England and Catherine of Russia, but she has never reached the high est place as a cook, she has never held tbe first rank in the kitchen, she has never had her name enrolled as not born to die by vir tue of her skill in the divine art of tbe cuis ine that gave Soyer and Francatelli fame and brought Archestratus and Epicurus down the ages as noted in this line. All along in history-are found the names ol men who found the front rank by their works on the chemistry of food, but no woman has won the honors of a Liebig, a Beaumont, rereira or resenms. - Men as Dressmakers. Good gowns in Shakespeare' day were all made by men who were skilled in the fashioning of farthingales and ruffs. That they reached excellence is made evident by Katharine's delence of her tailor-made dress when she said in answer to .the railing of Petruchlo: "I never saw a better-fashioned gown, more quaint, more pleasing nor more commendable." The aptitude and fitness of men for such work is shown by the tailor-made women of to-day who pride themselves upon being the mould of fashion. Men stand at the top of the heap as dress makers. The Republican party upholds the tariff and the protection of American indus try, but McKinley could not make tbe duty steep enough to keep out gowns made by Worth. Their splendor and beauty chron icled by tongue and pen give happiness to the souls of their wearers, and. the passion for them is stronger than patriotism. Worth is the man who takes the measure of Mrs. Astor and gives her tailor-made fits, and the beauty and expression of decollete effects. When arrayed in her "best things," a "Worth" gown and loads of diamonds, Mrs. Astor is so dazzling and tempting that she has to be attended by a big policeman in a dres3 suit to keep his eye on her, and guard her when attending a "swell"' reception. Still it has never 'been noted that these things gave real expression to beauty. To some women such a display would be soul satisfying, because it cost an awful lot of money. To others it would stem a vulgar show. Art Is Simply Common Sense. In the matter of dress many women are fools. They allow Worth and Bedfern and the rest of the apostles to dictate to them 'the wearing of trussing, tight-fitting toggery that makes them miserable. Xhey follow "the style" as sheep follow tbe lead of the bell-wether, even when it nearly kills them. It is something to be thankful for that Edmund Bussell advocates rebellion by his "gospel of beauty." He holds that art means simply common sense that beauty consists in having the right thing in. the right place. This means that although fashion dictates that women should sweep tbe streets with their gowns they would do right to rebel. To have gowns two inches shorter than "the style" allows might stamp their wearers as ''dowdies," and rather than that, some might perhaps prefer to be dead. But with the rule that beauty is the right thing in the right place, it stands to reason that fashion in many cases shonld be given the go-by. The lectures of Mr. Bussell during the past two weeks give clear intimation that a change is coming'. All will perhaps not agree with Mr. Bussell in his views on dress and decoration, but they cannot but admit that his principle of beauty "the right thing in the right place," will conduce to sweeter manners, happier homes, and help to root out vulgarity and ostentation. Bessie Bkamble. WAXDEBSEE'S EE8IQNATI0N. Some History In Connection With Emperor William's Career. Pall Mall Bndset. The'resignation of Count von Waldersee, the Chief of the German General Staff, is annonnced. The resignation is another link in the chain of surprises with which the Emperor astonishes the world. When the late Emperor Frederick, then still Crown Prince, was staying at San Bemo, the semi-official papers here published some vehement articles against the Count, accus ing him of intriguing against Prince Bis marck, who himself seemed to en tertain similar feelings. Even subse quent to the accession of the present Emperor, these papers, evidently prompted by the Prince, denounced him as advocating a more active policy against Russia. Next he was accused of meddling in home poli tics. Count von Waldersee repeatedly and emphatically denied these imputations, and events have since proved that Prince Bis marck's fears of Count von Waldersee's rivalry were phantoms. Count von Wal dersee, indeed, has performed his duties as Chief of the General Staff without the least thought of politics. It is therefore fairly safe to believe that his resignation has no political significance. It would be fruitless to seek the reasons for his resignation. Tbe strictest secrecy is always preserved upon military matters, and a statement of the Hamburger Kachrichten, ascribing it to a disagreemeut between the Count and Gen eral von Caprivi concerning the dnties of the War Minister, therefore needs confirma tion. WOOD FOE VI0LIHS. Spruce From Building? Over a 'Century Old Is Good. When the old Pierce building of Boston, which had stood for more than 200 years, was torn down six or seven years ago, sev eral violin makers got a lot of pieces of spruce joists out of it to make violin tops. Most people think violins are made from some queer and costly loreign wood. They are not. The top is made of spruce boards or timbers, and the strap, the back and' the scroll from curly maple. The essential, however, is that the wood shall have been seasoned for generations. Cheap violinsare made from wood that has been seasoned only four or five years. Good-makers want wood 100 years old. Bellamy and His Book. ' Edward Bellamy says: "I have not been able to convince people that I am not a rich man and that I haven't made a fortune out of. 'Looking Backward. As a matter of fact, the profits out of the book haven't been In a remote degree approximately that which re ports have stated." Mi in Count Von Waldertee. THE PEOPLE'S TABLE.. Cecipcs for Dishes That Are Pala table, Healthy and FrugaL THE FEENCH FOE AMERICAN HASH. Jfew Ways of Preparing Chicken, Turkej, Fish, Game and Ham. MISCELLANEOUS CDLINAEI K0TI3S3 IWHUTJUT TOB THE DISPATCH. 1 Mr. Delmonico says of croquettes -that they are an attractive French substitute for American hash". His method for making them, if closely followed, will be found very satisfactory, and I here append it: Veal, mutton, lamb, sweetbreads, almost any of the lighter meats, besides cold chicken and turkey, can be most delicionsly turned into cro queues. Chop the meat very fine. Chop up an onion, fry it in an ounce of butter and add a tablespoonf ul ot flour. Stir well and then ajld tne chopped meat and a little brotb, salt, pepper, a little nutmeg. Stir for two or three minutes, then add the) yolks of two eges, and turn the whole mixture Into a dish to cool. When cold mix well together again. Divide up into parts for the croquettes, roll into the desired shape In bread crniabs. Dip in beaten egg. then In bread crumbs again, and fry crisp to a bright golden color. Serve plain or with tomato sauce or garniture of vegetables. JIAYONXAISB OT CHICKES-. Take tbe remains of fowl, fish or game. Free from skin and bone, mix with a spoon lol or two ot majonnaise sauce, and set aside for two hoprs. At serving time cover with mayonnaise and garnish with water cress. TURKEY HASH. Take two onions,- chop quite fine and put In x not trying pan with enouzh beet drippineand butter to fry them tender. Add a pint and a halt of chopped turkey. Season with salt, pepper and a little thyme. i"our In a little boiling water and thicken with browned flour. Let simmer lor a few minutes and serve on toast, KECrPE FOR CURRT. Take fragments of cold turkey, chicken, veal or lamb. Cnt '.l8?.11 Pieces.put In astewpanand cover with boilinc water: . Cook lor five minutes, season to taste, thicken with a little flour, add a small lump of butter and a tcaspoonful of curry powder. Kn 'coma to the boil 3Sah. and ser7e with boiled rice. TURKEY -WITH OYSTERS. Mince very fine cold roast or boiled turkey, alt a, yer r ,tne tntke7 and one of oysters Season with cream, batter, salt and pepper. buttr8W ad crnmbs and sma11 Pieces of Bake until the oysters are cooked. POTTED HAM. Cut in small pieces the remains of boiled ham. ponnd well, and add gradually a little melted butter. Season to taste, pack firmly in glasses, add a little melted butter, cover securely and store away for future nse. This will be ready for sandwiches, or It may be spread on toasted bread and heated in the oven. DEVILED HAJT. Cnt cold boiled ham into even slices. Season with a sprinkle of cayenne. Broil over a moderate fire, turnin" fro. quently. Make smooth one tablespoonful of mustard with vinegar and spread over the ham. Serve hot. HA3I TOAST. Melt in a stewpan a small piece of batter, and when it beeins to brown add to it finely mlhcen ham. Beat one egg with a taulespoon f ul of milk and stir Into the hot mixture. Serve on buttered toast. Increase the mixture according to the rounds of toast required. Here are some general recipes: I.E3IOX PIE. To tho grated rind and jalce ot one lemon addacuDfal of sasar. the yolk of one egg; a coffee cupful of cold water and a dessertspoon, f ul of corn starch. Pflnt nn.it nlanw ....v. 3 ... ... -..-.- ww (U4.... ...., puui .u.u pasu-y snails. t cover with the beaten whites ana-set in the V1GU &WI au lUSkwUt. BREAKFAST CAKE. Knead into bread sponge a piece of bntte about as largo as a walnut. Put into a shallow pan. stew with bits of hotter.' sift mth fine sugar and dust wita cinnamon. When risen and baked it should be about two lnchos thick. COCOA5UT PIE. Peel the dark skin off and grate the meat upon a large grater. Beat one egg light, add a cupful of milk and sugar to taste. If tbe cocoannt is large add one-half the meat, if small the whole. LEMON TEA. For this refreshing drink cold tea. left over, may Be used. Add to a glass of it. lamp sugar to taste a .slice or two of Iemon,'a little ot the Juice and some crushed ice. STEAMED PUDDKIO. Beat up four eggs, with a large cunful of cream, add half a pound of raisins, cupful and a half of susar, three enpf uls of flour and a scant tablespoontul ot baking powder. Steam two hours. JERUSALEM PUDDISO. S&ak a fourth of a cupful of rice, throw into boiling water and cook for 20 minutes. Drain and put into cold water. Ubop three fins and three onnces of preserved ginger very fine. Add a gill of sherry and soak for 15 minutes. Soak a halt box of gelatine for half an hoar in a half cup of cold water. Whin a pint of cream, pat in a vessel, and stand the vessel In a pan of ice. Sprinkle 'over a half cupfnl of powdered sugar, and add a tcaspoonful of vanilla. Drain tbe rice, spread It on a towel and shake gently to dry. Stir it Into the cream and add the fruit. Dissolve the gelatine over hot water, turn into the cream, and continue stirring until tho ingredients are uell mixed. Mold and put in a cool place to stiffen. TRUIT PUDDIHO. Sift together one pint of flour, two teaspoon. f uls of baking powder and a little salt. Four in milk enough to make a soft batter. Butter enns and set In steamer. Drop a large spoonfnl in each cap, then a layer of berries or tart apples chopped. Add more batter not quite filling the cups and steam for 30 minutes. Eat with sauce, or cream and sngar. ORANGE PUDDISO. Take half a doren orange9. peel, cut in smalt pieces and remove the seeds. Arrange In a deep baking dish, sift sugar over them and cover with a custard made as follows: To one pint of milk add a tablespoonfnl of dissolved corn starch, the yolks of two eggs well beaten, and three level tablespoonful. of flour. Cook In a double boiler until It thickens and poor over tbe oranges. Let cool, and cover with a meringue made of the beaten whites, sweetened with powdered sugar, and flavored with a fow drops of lemon. Place in an open oven until the meringue be comes delicately browned. SSOW PUDDISO. Cover a half box of gelatine with a pint of cold water. Let stand for one hour, and then dissolve) with a pint of boiling water. Stir in the jnice of two lemons and a little ot the grated rind. ,' Sweeten with two and a half cupf uls of sugar, and set to cool. When it begins to stiffen stir In the frothed whites of Ave eggs, mold and set is a cool place. Serve with custard sauce. BROWJT SAUCE. Add to a halt pint of milk one tablespoonful or butter, two of sngar, two of flour and two of molasses Boll ten minutes. WINE SAUCE. Cream together one-hair cupful of butter and, 2K cnpfols of powdered sugar. Vhfie creaming moisten occasionally with boiling water. Beat for fire or ten minutes or until the mix ture is quite creamy, tnen pour In two wine glassfuls of pale sherry or white wine and add a teaspoonf ul of grated nutmeg. mhjc SAUCE. To a pint of milk add the beaten yolks ot four flffffS. four tablespoonful! of inrar and . IataI tablespoonful ot flour, rubbed smooth In a 11U tie mllic Flavor, and boll until thick as custard. PLAK PUDDISO SAUCE. Mix a teaspoonf ul of flour with a tablespoon ful of cold water, add bntter th ir of a. !. nut. one-halt teacupf ul of sugar and a sin. ot . Douing -water. . Flavor and boil tor a few minutes. flT.T.TCB HTB.TA.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers