rv 1 Ik'.- J? 20 j$k$k -S nunm j-,e? rfcW9 FANCIES FOR THE FAIR. A New Idea in Dress Keform Has Found ft Following in England Bit of Fashion Gossip From Dispatch Correspondents Across the Sea Small Talk. "I shall go out in this dress to-morrow," said Mrs. Charles Hancock as she stood up on an improvised little platform in her drawing room at Queen's Gate, London, and exhibited on her own person the latest addi tion to the long list of so-called "rational" dresses. If success is possible for that much-derided garment, the present attempt to naturalize it has certainly all the ele ments of success in it The skirt is not di vided, there is nothing of the "bustles:, waistless, hipless body" about it, and its in ventor and first wearer is a woman who is not only in society, but who knows also tbe art of how to wear clothes, which, as every woman will admit, is by no means a com mon accomplishment, says the Fall Mall Budget. The two illustrations give a pood idea of the tweed dress worn by Mrs. Hancock, who claims for it that it abolishes skirts (petticoats, that is, in Heady for the Street. plain language) and slip bodices, and that, instead of putting ns into tbe mud, as the ordinarv skirt does, it lifts us above the mud. This it certainly will do, for it is five inches shorter than the ordinary walk ing dress, and rather palls on the unsus pecting beholder till one begins to remem ber what, unfortunately, Mrs. Hancock did not point out in her delighttul little "Song of the Skirt" namely, that it is actually this kind of garment which everybodv is agreed makes the French chatelaine look so piquante and charming when she sets out pour la chasse. With regard to the absence of the "slip bodice" and petticoats, well, a waistcoat (one might call it) of Jaeger lining is a substitute for tbe former, and the latter are replaced by what Mrs. Hancock several times, though inadvertent ly, called knee-breecbes, bnt which in polite language are yclept Bow It Loots in the Home. knickerbockers. It was very amusing to listen, after tbe little speech, to the discus sion, in which tbe most extraordinary state ments concerning the vie intime of the mondaine cme out. "We would have be lieved it, that so many of the daintily dressed ladies, with the elegant rnstle of in visible silk about their walking dresses, are revolutionary enough to wear them only over knickerbockers, and like it immensely. Mrs. Bryant, Sc D., advocated the new in vention, Miss Sharman Crawford applauded it, Mrs. Eva McLaren gave it her support, j.ud many others, charmed by Mrs. Han cock's dress, were "almost persuaded." It is, indeed, women like Mrs. Hancock who, it thev are only courageous and consistent enough, can make a rational dress popular, and make people "swallow" even the rather unsightly gaiters for which the plea is entered that they are "perfectly delightful to the wearer." Unfortunately, not every woman is either graceful or pretty, and what heightens the charm of a belle by its piquancy and individuality, would Convert the plain woman into what, in coster'jargon, is called "a hobjec" r Bright pink will always be a favorite, be cause of its effectiveness, but this year New York seems to have gone crazy over it. For a pink dinner, like many that will he given during the next three months, the entire menu is to be kept of that shade as farfas possible. At a small party which gathered round the friendly board in London recently, there were some toilettes worthy of notice. First and foremost tbe popular 'contralto Madam Trebelli, looking remarkably well and handsomc-wai Attired la a Princess dress o Ikr I i 'i i It 1 A Ami nLi rich brown watered velvet. The dress was cut high (singing birds have td think of their voices this severe weather),' opened from throat to feet over a narrowJront of plaited silk, the palest of greens Dov.n the center from tbe waist, a broad, hand some steel passementerie reached to the double frill of silk and green crape, which came to the feet. The velvet on each side was edged by the same passementerie, which also formed the high collar. On each side of the skirt was .a panel of pale green silk, hardly more than an inch wide at the waist and gradually opening out to the full width ofa breadtb. Long fitting sleeves of velvet trimmed with steel passementerie, and.with a lrill of pale green crape coming well over the wrists finished this artistic costume. With this diamond and turquoise ornaments were worn. Madam Baymond Lynde, the wife of the well-known portrait painter, looked well with her burnished gold hair, in a black corded silk train, with a black lace front, looped with jet ropes over a crimson silk petticoat. Black, square-cut bodice, with black lace elbow sleeves over crimson silk, a bunch of holly in tbe center of her bodice finished a distinctly admirable costume. Another gown was of fawn lace, made with one wide lace flounce, rather scantyt lace blouse, low-necked and short-sleeved, was gathered in at tbe waist by a pale blue band. At the back was a sash, a broad Per sian scarf of pale blue silk, with multi colored palms. A handsome brunette was clad in a black satin redingote, edged with black Spanish lace. This opened on a front of light olive green brocade, with pale pink flowers as the pattern. This tablier, beginning from the throat, slightly draped by tbe brocade, being gatherecLnot too fully on each side. Satin sleeves, slashed longways at the upper part of the arm to allow a puffof brocade to come through, the cuffs also being of tbe brocade. A green opal cameo fastening the redingote at the throat completed a singularly rich toilette. "Probably tbat woman will manage her husband best who best manages herself," says Marion Harland. "Model wives are very apt to have model husbands, on the same principle that poor workmen always have poor tools." Above is a representation of a velvet and lace collar that is now becoming popular. It is becoming to almost any complexion, and unless the neck be very short will be found comfortable as well as pretty. Harper' Bazar. Embroidery, beading and tinsel are used in every conceivable manner in London now. Nothing is prettier for an afternoon dress than the straight down cashmere skirt embroidered in silk, very heavily at the feet, and thinning gradually toward the waist. These dresses are to be had in every hue. They look well, made with a plain cashmere bodice, draped Y. shape over an embroidered plastron, and with embroidered sleeves, fall and high at the shoulder, and gradually becoming close-fitting down to the wrist. Or else, with a lull chemisette bodice of the plain material with a short sleeveless Spanish jacket of the embroidery very full plain sleeves to the elbow, where they are gathered in a long embroidered cuff. Tulle or gauze dresses embroidered on the same principle, in beads or tinsel, look pretty over silk with a Bebe bodice over which is worn a thickly embroidered corse let When these evening dresses are slightly draped or looped up, gold butterflies or any glittering winged insects are much used to fix and bold the thin fabric Oirdles for evening or morning wear are much the fash ion, or rather will become so, for they are only just making their appearance. They follow the shape of the bodice, be it round waisted or pointed, and have two long ends reaching down to the very edge of the front of the skirt. Either made of silk, or the same material as the dress, braided in gold or silver or embroidered in beads or tinsel, they are sometimes ropes of pearls or jet, and are in every case effective. The .Princess of Wales has a penchant for artistic buttons, and has the finest collection of jeweled gold, silver and carved buttons in the world, including a set consisting of crimson carbuncles set in oxidized silver, recently presented by her sister, theEmpreis of Bussia. At the annual New Year's Day reception held at the American Embassy in London a clever woman from New York was chatting on the expansive subject of English women, their costumes and their headgear. "What struck me principally when I first saw the uuual crowd in Begent street," she said, "was the fearful proportions of -the female head and tbe wonderfully small size of the bonnet surmounting it. Why should a well-shaped cranium be disEgnred by a pile of pufls, fnzzes and curls that tbe kindest critic could not ascribe to nature? We Americans make our chevelure as small and compact as possible, and our bonnets at least are of a fairly useful size. English women's clothes are fit so perfectly and their heads 'fit' so badly." English women must agree with the fair Yankee. Every one was forced to look with admiration at her shapely, shining, "well-groomed" head, whose only ornament was a uussive pin of dull'gold, in which three splendid sapphires glistened. Her gown was of an indescribable shade of steely blue merveilleux, and was a marvel of simplicity and expensive elegance. The bodice was cut heart-shaped, back and front, and draped with embroidered chiffon, drawn into a corselet of the silk, covered with vcut-steel beads. The short skirt was also draped with chiffon, the same shade as the diess, and had a heavy ruche around the foot. The drapery was held in place by cut-steel ornaments, white, dainty steel embroidered slippers glanced from under her petticoat from time to time. An exqui site bouquet of orchids was held in her grey gloved hand, while a fan of the loveliest feathers matching her dress depended from xja Bteel chain fit her side If that pretty. THE American had only possessed a soft English voice she would have been qnita perfect. Here is an embroidered crape dress that is calculated to make any belle shine at the ball. It is one of the most popular this season. Harper's Bazar. Prudence has taught many a fair one to leave her wraps in the hall, and -appear in the warm drawing room without cloak or jacket. Thus she avoids a severe cold, by being in turn appropriately clad to the inner warmth or outercold, besides attaining tbe not altogether inappreciable result of showing a pretty gown to full advantage. For this purpose nothing is better than the "Portia" cloak, so easily slipped on and off. At this season it should be lined with fur. For the afternoon these cloaks look best in some subdued color, with tbe yoke and Medici collar, thickly braided in gold or silver. They are the best of theater or evening wraps and they look exceedingly pretty in pink, blue, green, mauve or gold color, brocaded silk or light cashmere. Beading is handsomer than braiding for night, pearl, steel or gold beads and rainbow-hued bugles being very effective. A most convenient bead gear is a long scarf about two feet wide and four feet long, made of merveilleux satin and edged all ronnd with a frill of lace, folded double. Worn over the bead with a point in front over tbe forehead and fastened under tbe chin with a brooch, it makes the pret tiest of hoods, the double frill of the lace forming a most becoming frame to the face. In tbe theater or at the ball, unfolded to its .lull length, it is once more a scarf for the linTilriAra and liirlit npABAFwttnn fvnm draughts at a time when a cloak becomes cumbersome and too warm. Here is a theater coiffure for an elderly lady. Tbe frame is made of black stiff net, wired with ribbon wire and covered with black velvet. The pointed front is edged with a double row of large cut jet beads. A scarf made of lace two inches wide joined by tbe straight edges is arranged in a large flat bow on the back, and two lace scarfs at tached at the sides form strings. Harper's Bazar. A pretty innovation in the wearing of natural flowers among tbe London belles, is a small horseshoe made of violets and worn on the left side of the bodice or jacket, as one would wear an order. In Paris flowers in the hair either in wreaths or pompons, are once more in favorfor eveningdress. A good way of employing artificial flowers is the spray fixed along the outer stick of a gauze fan, matching those painted on the fan. At a dinner party recently a young girl in slight monrning wore a situnle black net dress, with low neck and short sleeves. She had substituted flowers for ornaments; round her neck and wrists were cbaplets of fragrant Parma violets forming necklace and bracelets. A new bodice ornament is huge gold lace butterflies mounted on wires and studded with imitation gems. The upper wings are as large as a spread-out open hand, the lower ones a little smaller. Tbey grasp the folds of drapery, the lower ones folded on the breast. They are very showy and somewhat startling, but not in appropriate to tbe pantomime season. "In managing a husband," said Ella Wheeler Wilcox, "a woman should always bear in mind that, she being less able to live in a state of single blessedness than he, marriage confers upon her tbe greater bene fit. This being the case, it follows as a log ical sequence tbat it is the dnty of the wile to make more sacrifices than the husband. In any sacrifice that she makes she should always seem willing and cheerful. If she observes that rule she will soonjind that but few sacrifices will be asked of her, and that those she makes are fully valued and amply rewarded. "Young wives -are often apt to be too ex acting. They think their husbands should always be in tbe same state of fervent love making tbat they found so delightful dur ing courtship and the honeymoon. They forget tbat love, like the day, has its dawn, its morning, its high noon, its afternoon and its evening. It is unreasonable for a wife to expect her husband's love to be at high noon throughout the wholo 21 hours. Tne cool evening and tbe chilly night must inevitably be brought by the adverse winds of business worries and the thousand. cares and annoy ances of everyday life. Be patient during such, times, when the glorious sun of your husband's iove is veiled from you, and never for a moment lose faith that the clouds will soon lift and bright dawn and genial noon shine forth again. And when yon see signs of their approach do not act coldly or show resentment of the cloudy hours during wbich other matters than yourself have engrossed your husband's mind." Domestic Economy. Washington Star.) "You married a rich wife, didn't you?" asked Harry of his erstwhile friend. "Yes," he sighed, "but she's never de clared any dividends yet,& ' TO JflHKl PITTSBUKG- DISPATCH, THEY WANT TO ENOW. YouDg Housekeepers Send a Lot of Queries to Ellice Serena. THE POT-POURRI OF YE OLDEN TIME Serving Yegetables in Courses and Setting tbe Dinner Table. A FEW POINTS ABOUT THE SERVICE IWBITTXir TOR THE DISPATCH. In tbe following paper I shall answer some of tbe many inquiries which have found their way to my table. A "young housekeeper" wishes to know the meaning of the word "etagere" as applied to the din ing room, and for what purpose it is used. She also asks for a pot-pourri recipe. An etagere is an article of furniture much used at the present time as a desirable addi tion to the dining room. It is made with open shelves on which are placed the extra napkins, knives, forks and spoons. This "dinner wagon" so called in England also holds the salad dishes, dessert plates, finger bowls, the relishes, etc In our grandmothers' days the pot-pourri or rose jar was considered an indispensable accessory to the best room the room which was sacredly set aside and not to be used only on the most extraordinary occasions. An hour or two before company was ex pected the rose jar filled with rare spices and leaves of aromatic flowers was well shaken, the lid removed, and the windows and doors kept closed, when a delightful and indescribable perfume filled the room. The recipe here given for the old-fashioned perfume has been well tested, and I warrant this odoriferous jar not to become musty, but to continue sweetly fragrant for years to come: Recipe for the Fot-FonrrL Gather your rose leaves in dry weather, re move the petals, and when a halt peck Is ob tained take a large bowl and strew table salt on the bottom: then threo handf nls ofleaves, and repeat until all the leaves are used, covering tbe top with salt. Let this remain five days, stirring and turning twice a day, when they should appear moist. Add three ounces of bruised or coarsely pow dered allspice; one ounce cinnamon stick braised, which forms the stock. Allow to remain a week, turning daily from top to bottom. Put into the permanent jar one ounce allspice and, adding tbe stock layer by layer, sprinkle between tbe layers the following mixture: One onnce each cloves and cinnamon, two nutmegs, all closely powdered; some ginger root, sliced tbin; halt an ounce amseseed, bruised; ten grains finest musk, bait pound freshly dried lavender flowers, two ounces, of powdered or finely sliced arris root, and essential oils ad libitum; also any fine colognes, rose or orange flower water, orange and lemon peel. Freshly-drled violet, tube roses, clove pinks or otber highly scented flowers should be added each year in season. Fine extracts of any kind will enhance the fragrant odor, while fresh rose leaves, salt and allspice, made as at first, must be added when convenient In the rose season. Shako and stir the jar once or twice a week and open only when in use. "Nannie" asks: "Are vegetables ever served in courses? If so, please tell me the most suitable ones to serve. And in table setting how many knives, forks and spoons are allowed for each guest, and how are they arrayed about tbe plates?" She also asks about dinner serving, and about tbe duties of tbe waitress. Vegetables are often served in courses a mode which obtains in France, where each vegetable is served as a course. But with us in America they are usually served separately when the dinner is not an elabor ate one, or in the absence oi a salad. Dining can be made A Very Tedious Affair with too many courses especially if the service is slow. The vegetables most in favor for serving, in tbe manner alluded to, are cauliflower, macaroni, asparagus and green corn. The latter is steamed, en veloped in the inner husks, wbich preserves its sweetness, and Served simply with salt and butter balls. The grains are gently forced from the cob by the tines of the fork using the back of tbem next to the cob. Tbe number of knives, forks and spoons used at dinner is regulated by the courses. All those required may be placed on tbe table at eaco cover, or.they may be supplied from the etagere and passed as required. If the waitress is slow and not endowed with a good memory it would be advisable to ar range them at the table. The laying or placing of tbem is a matter of taste; the invariable rule, however, with knives is to place them at the right hand with tbe sharp edge toward the plate. The forks tines up niay be placed at the left hand, except the oyster forks, which are usually laid with the knives. The spoons bowls up are placed at the top of the plate the soup spoon preceding or following the smaller ones just as fancy dictates. Serving a Dinner. I am glad that Nannie evidently another young housekeeper has given me an oppor tunity to say something about serving, etc. Not tbat I have many new ideas to advance on this hackneyed subject, but because I am anxious to impart information to all who manifest an interest in such affairs. Some one I have forgotten who it was has said "that the worst torture that survives the in quisition is a bad formal dinner. A worse torture than any known to the inquisition is any'formal dinner (the better the dinner tbe worse the torture) inefficiently served." The success of a dinner, especially a formal dinner, does indeed depend very much I might say altogether on tbe man ner in which it is served. And although Mr. Henry Watterson has said (and I grant that this distinguished journalist knows what perfect 'serving is) tbat no woman should enter the dining room except to sit at table, yet I have no doubt that many will recall occasions in which, owing to circum stances which made it necessary, the hostess herself in the capacity of her own waitress has served large companies as proficiently as any professional waiter tbat ever bandied a tray. Likes and Dislikes of Servants. In the matter of tbe depeudence to be placed in servants, all of us recall more than one instance wherein the servant has mani fested a distaste, a positive dislike, and even a reougnance to serving tbe table, although in otber respects she was up to the standard. But the wonder js that with work so re munerative, so light and so agreeable and so fascinating to those who take naturally to it, there are not more young women will ing to enter into training as serving maids. Bnt it otherwise seems that many young girls prefer tbe most irksome and laborious work to table serving, having in some man ner got a false notion tbat there is an im pairment of respect, some faint suspicion of alack of dignity, or sort of degredation at tached to this department of service. I remember a dinuer, a perfectly Served dinner, and one, therefore, long to be re membered, for there isinfinite satisfaction in such a dinner, at which a lovely daughter took up the responsibility which the servant refnsed to bear, of serving a large company, tbe guests of her mother. It is needless to say tbat tbe young lady distinguished her self by her thorough knowledge of this su perior accomplishment. Neatness tbe First Requisite. I shall not attempt at this writing to dis cuss all the duties of the waitress tbat they are manitold and of the most exacting kind, we all Know. Besides, this subject has been written up so often that it is to be supposed the majority of housekeepers are quite familiar with all the details. One of the first duties, however, of tbe waitress is to be neat. .She cannot be too particular in her personal habits and in her dress, wbich should be plain and inconspicuous. A pair of slippers, or easv shoes, should be worn to enable her to get around noiselessly and gracefully, lor it should be her aim to avoid noise and slovenly service. The "donning" of the cap is at the option of the mistress, and while it is English to wear it. and notwithstanding the tact that rs, peudaa jgireajo .Jadies of SUNDAY ''JANUARY America very pronounced views on this subject, yet there are many in high social circles who do not exact tbe wearing of it this the waitress mar regret, since.it en hanced the beauty of the fresh, fair fate be neath it Americans Abhor Livery. Tbe theory has been advanced that a re pugnance so widespread and so general is traceable to a natural bom prejudice which Americans and Americanized foreigners have toward appearing in livery, as if a white cap and white apron were badges of servitude. There may Indeed be something in it If this should be found to be the cause in any particular case, the matter is one entirely and alone to be determined by the good judgment of the mistress. It is easily seen that in some cases it would be an imposition upon a spirited, well-meaning, but inexperienced girl. There should be no trouble in dealing with cases of this kind, when understood; and an intelligent mistress and a dutiful servant ought to, in such circumstances, come to a mutual un derstanding. Another important duty of the waitress is, in the words of the common phrase, "to keep a still tongue in her head," and to be apparently unconscious of tbe conversation carried on among tbe guests. Just Like Dealing in Enchre. The order of serving is from right to left beginning at the right of the host and end ing at his left Tbe entire serving must be done with the tray, passing always to the left when the guest is expected to remove the dish from tbe tray otherwise, the waitress E laces the dish at the right. Serving may e facilitated by having the water, soup and bntter (if it is served) in place before din ner is announced. In making removes do not attempt to pile or scrape the dishes or to gather the cutlery. Take up the salts and peppers on a tray.also the scraps of bread. Clear the table of everything except the glasses, and the olives and tbe fruit (shonld they be placed on tbe table at tbe beginning of the dinner, as is olten tbe custom). The crumb-scrape, of course, should be used after the table is cleared, previous to serving the desert Tbe woman who can train a waitress, and the waitress who can carry this training into effect, have a right to be proud of their ac complishments. Ellice Serena. HEW NOTIONS Hf BPOOHB. One That Cleans Itself and Another for M en With Mustaches. Hew York Sun. Two Yankee geniuses have just distin guished themselves in the spoon line. The first variation is suggestive of f the kitchen and the sick room, nas it can hardly be supposed that the inventor desired to change table manners.and that his idea was that the bowl should be filled and that food should be suddenly inserted by the action of a spring, un less medicine for feeble pa tients be considered. It is more than likely that the variation is intended for use in cooking or some operation, like candy making, in which substances cling to tbe ordi nary spoon and cannot be cleaned off without considera ble waste. Certainly the use of it at table would be worse than bad manners. It is a combination, with a spoon, of a slidable scraper inclosing the bowl, a tube on the back 11 of tbe spoonbandle, a spring pressed rod mounted in the tube and con nected with tbe scraper, and a handle mounted loosely on the spoonhandle and connected with the spring-pressed rod. The other variation is suggestive of an effort on behalf of the wearers of mustaches. To sip from the side of the bowl of a spoon is correct, according to table manners, and the wearer of a mustache has to use the com mon spoon in that way, or fco without soup, if he objects to being an unpleasant object with the edge of his mustache dripping with food. Besides being an offense against good manners, it is awkward to thrust out the hand and wrist in efforts to project the point of the spoon into the month, bnt most wearers of mustaches would be willing to make the awkwardness as slight as possible if they could enjoy sip ping soup, or tea in that manner. The in ventor of the bent handle limits the possi bility of awkwardness in handling", and boldly attacks well-established usage, but it is doubtful whether the ungraceful shape of his variation will be accepted in place of the present straight-handled spoon. "WOULDN'T OEOSS A BBIDGE. An Odd Superstition That Kept Senator Hearst From the Race Track. New York Tress. Senator Hearst, who owns Tournament, was not present to see his great colt win the big Realization stakes, although he started from the Windsor Hotel, where he was staying, to do so. He got in a cab intend ing to drive to the Thirty-fourth street ferry. Through stupidity on the' part of the cabby and forgetfnlness on the part of "Uncle Geoige," the cab rat tled down town and was at tbe Brooklyn bridge before the mistake was noticed. The Senator could have crossed the bridge, and gone by way of the Long Island road, but be smiled sadly and ordered the cabby to drive him back. Less than a week after ward he admitted to a party of Senators who asked him why he bad not been present and who knew that he was not ill, as had been given out, tbat superstition was at the bot tom of it. "It would be bad enough to cross the bridge," he said, "but you don't catch me crossing a bridge in a rainstorm.to go to any horse race. Ob, not There's just enough of the miner left in me to make me a shade superstitious. You may laugh, but I felt that if a had gone 'down that day I would have hoodooed my colt and he wouldn't have won." ' Where Women Get Coppers. "Where do women get so many more cop pers than men?" was asked of a street car conductor by a New York Herald man. "Well, you see it is this way," he re plied, "there never was a woman who didn't love to go shopping, and then, of course, they are always on tne lookout for bargains, and.tho consequence is where thev trade everything ;'s marked 69 cents, $1 87, 99)4 cents and so on. It makes the women think they are saving money and at the same time it makes us an awful bother, for in every purchase they make they get a lot of coppers which they, in turn, unload on us poor conductors. Men don't give us cop pers often, so we generally shove ours off on the women." Coffee by the Thimbleful. After dinner coffee cups grow smaller and smaller. Some chatelaines have introduced such tiny thimbles of porcelain tbat one. small Bwallow drains the vessel. The spoons with these are not much larger than salt spoons and the lumps of loaf sugar are cut to we requisite nannessf - , J f i " I V 18, 1391. NO TURNING BACK. Women Will Hold Their Position in Spite of Cranks' Croakings, , AHD WILL ADVANCE STILL MORE. Their Tress Associations and Successful Publication Wort A PATISG KE)YSPAPEE WITHOUT MEN rWEITTEX rOB THI DISPATCn.1 The church has become fond of claiming that to Christianity woman owes ber restora tion from the degradation and bondage of Paganism. It claims it has broken her fet ters, redeemed her from the life of a slave, and given unto her the honor that is ber proper due. It also claims that through its teachings and tbe work of the ministry "has been developed" a social order in which her influence, already great, is growing, and in which she rules, in her proper sphere, over man. Moreover, the author from whom I quote maintains that if the church should lose its power, woman would again be de graded and fall directly back into her old state of slavery. This is a prediction intended to give women a regular "scare," but they will not "scare," for too many of them have taken to reading and studying and thinking for themselves upon this matter, and have some faith in the doctrine of evolution. "The mind and will of the church." savs this rev erend author, "are set forth in the words of inspired truth as follows: 'I suffer not a woman to teach, nor to usurp authority over the man, but to be in silence. For Adam was first formed, then Eve. The head of every man is Christ; the head of the woman is the man. Tbe man is tbe image and glory of God; but tbe woman is the glory of.man.' These words," he continues, "express the mature and perpetual judgment of the church and the mind of God." The Command Isn't Obeyed. If this be true, then indeed is the world running counter to such commandments, and tending to destrnction with ever accel erating speed. Women shonld not be suf fered to teach. Squarely against this is the fact that women now constitute the main body of teachers in the most civilized coun tries on the globe. With intelligence at the fireside represented by better educated mothers than tbe world has ever seen, and with tbe culture of the schools, where tbe tender twigs arc bent, largely in tbe hands of, and under the minds of women, it is hard to see how the church expects to bold on to the old notion that women are to re main in silence, and shall not be suffered to teach or preach. Force and public opinion rule mankind. Force always begets wrath and . rebellion. There is sometbiug in human nature that rises against arbitrary rule. Hatred and revenge are always dogging tbe heels of despotism. The chnrch has tried force. It has murdered and martyred millions. It has tortured and burned heretics. It has sentenced to the gallows and tbe fagot hundreds of thousands of women as witches whose only crime, it is said, was intelli gence beyond the common. Force has failed in face of the advance of civilization and free thought. Women are forbidden to preach too. They are to remain in silence. But tbey preach all the same, and the num ber of women preachers keeps constantly growing, despite tbe maturejudgment of the church, and tbe teachings of the bachelor apostle, who assumed to be a dictator on tne dress and deportment of women. Facts That Shine in History. Tbat these words on which the reverend brother lays such special stress were not applicable to all worqen, even in the days of the Apostle who uttered tbem, is evident It will not be forgotten tbat a greater than Paul himself, even Jesus of Nazareth, en couraged women to become his disciples and helpers, while Paul bad co-workers in tbe Lord in Phoebe and Priscilla and Fersis and others. The example and teachings of Helena, tbe mother of Constantine, are said, to have led to bis establishing Christianity as the religion of Borne. Pious mothers and wives in the primitive days of the church are credited with the establishment of Chris tian rule throughout Europe. In those days women held offices in tbe Cnristian church. They preached, baptized, and ministered at the altar untilhe doctrine of original sin was fully developed by Augus tine. Under cover of this convenient excuse, by whioh a woman was held responsible for all the evil in the world, the war against women began under the sanction ot the early fathers, and the sisters of tbe church were declared inferior beings, who were to be restrained and prohibited from holding office in the church. It took some hundreds ot years to get tbe women crushed and suppressed in the church; but with both civil and canon law against them, it is not surprising tbat for centuries thev bad no standing or voice in church affair?, but- were constrained to be in silence. Tbey were encouraged to contribute money, of course, ana to work for its advancement and welfare in obscurity, but to teach, to preach, to hold office oh. no I That would be sheer defiance ot the decrees of Providence. "Tbat would be entering a field which," as the reverend brother puts it, "God has reserved for men only." Sentiment of the Fobllc Bnt while ecclesiastical conrts still forbid while General Conferences still hold out while church councils still harangue and go on about the audacity and sinfulness of women aspiring to become preachers, public sentiment .favors the innovation. With equal educational advantages, it cannot now be contended that women are unfitted for the work. The Women's Christian Asso ciations, the W. C. T. TJ.'s, the Woman's Clubs all over the country, are educating their members to a knowledge of their rights and privileges in both sacred and secular affairs. With three-fourths of the church members women, it is easy to see that a revolution is not far off. Statisticians give the facts, and a smart woman furnishes the followin" conclusion: "Ninetv-five ne'r, cent of the drunkards are men; 95 per cent' of the criminals are men; 75 per cent ot; the paupers are men; ergo, all preachers of purity, sobriety, honesty and high morality should be men." Logic is logic." Perhaps a careful study of canon law and ancient history would make the clergy a little more chary of promulgating as a fact that woman, before tbe introduction of Christianity, "was despised and rejected of men; that ber thoughts, ideas, ber fame and her very life were regarded with contempt; that she was beld, as were serfs and animals, for the use and pleasures of lords and despots." A recent writer disputes these assertions by the statement tbat in ancient Borne woman bad secured personal and property rights thai gave her a great degree of independence that she officiated as priestess in the holiest offices of religion. In Days of Egypt's Greatness. In ancient Egypt women were merchants and traders, colleges lor their instruction- as doctors wereinstituted 1,200 years before the introduction of Christianity. Woman founded Egyptian literature, she filled the highest offices of religion, offered sacrifices to" the gods, sat upon the throne and pro FREE nnd at the same time extend our business make new customers, we have decided to make this special offer. Send us a Cabinet Picture, Photograph, Tin Type, Ambroty 'aa or Daguerrotvpe, ofvourclf or any member of your family, living or dead, and we will make you a UPB SIZE OBAYON PORTBAIT FREE OF OHARGE, provided you exhibit it to your friends as a sample of our work, and. use jrour influence in securing us future oiders. Place name and address on back of picture and it will be returned in perfect order. We make any change in picture you -wish, not Interfering with the likeness. Refer to any bank in New York. Address all mail to PACIFIC TOBTMAIT moted civilization. In marriage it was the husband who promised to obey a state of affairs tbat, says tbe historian, was produc tive of lasting fidelity and love. Much more to the same point is given, all of whicb, if true, goes to show that what was safe to say when women were ignorant will hardly pass withont question nowadays, and that the "beloved brethren" should read up on this subject of ancient civiliza tion and the position of .women in the primitive church. Another institutioq at work to upset the theories held until hardly more than hay a century ago and even now by not a fsw that "learning would be dangerous for women and pernicions for the interests of State and society" is the Woman's Press Association, intelligent women in the schoolrooms and on the press will knock a good many of the old notions into "pi." The reverend brother, whose remarks we have noted, and whose soul is filled with sorrow at seeing women out of the place he deems fit for them, will have to make up his mind to itor go hence. He predicts an end to civilization when "women Sspire to knowledge and tempt men to taste it with them," and adds sadly, that nevertheless as Adam followed Eve, so will the men of to day follow the women with dazed eyes and despairing hearts to a death from'.which there is no resurrection to a night wbich has no morning beyond." (At this stage tbe handkerchiefs might be passed). Women's Bef Days. From these remarks it will be seen that the brother is having a spell of tbe most dismal of dumps. But while women are re joicing in tbe dawn ot a brighter day, they will take little note of the lamentations of Jeremiahs, or the croakings of "the cloth." No matter what is said, or what horrors are professed as the result ofthe refusal of women to remain longer in silence and sub mission, they realize that these are "the best tirtjes probably that women ever bad in the world, and they propose to keep up in the march of progress at all hazards, and reach those even more golden in their promise of millennial days." The howl thatis raised in the professions as to women taking possession of the occu pations of men is rather cool, considering that men have usurped what were once con sidered the home duties of women. Not many years ago, women were the brewers and bakers, the weavers and spinners. Men, with machinery, have captured these indus tries. Dressmakers complain that men are taking away their business. In view of these facts, is it any wonder that the women workers are striking out into other fields and taking up new trades, and are finding employment wherever they can lay hold of a chance to exercise their talents. There is a demand for tbe views of women on the af fairs of cbnrcb, State and society, and news papers answer this public sentiment by a supply from tbe pens ot those who can use them hence the; are made welcome on the press. Women of the Press. The first Woman's Press Association was formed bv six correspondents in tbe famous "Bed Parlor" ot the Biggs House at Wash ington in 1882. This small organization the first of its kind the world has ever known has been followed by others that constitute a noble company of women, armed with the pen, who will do much for tbe advancement of sweetness and light in society, chnrch and state. In 1885 the Woman's National Press Association was formed in New Orleans with the object de fined in the following: "To provide a me dium of communication between the jour nalists of tbe country, securing all tbe bene fits that result from organized effort Such information as is continually needed by writers will be rendered available, and new avenues will be opened to individuals for journalistic work. Innumerable benefits arise from mutual help and encouragement One aim of the association is to forward the interests of the working women of the country in every way." This Press Association prospered, and a year or two afterward its name was changed to "International," and its membership now includes women writers in the United States, Australia and Europe, to the num ber of over 4Q0. The Woman's Press Asso ciation of the South has 100 members by tbe last report This is a surprising show ing from a section where women were once tanght to despise work and to regard the earning of money as plebeian. Some minor Organizations, The New England Woman's Press Olub by the report oi 1883 numbers 63 members. Of these 25 are editors, 2 editorial writers, 12 correspondents, 19 contributors and 2 business managers. The Illinois Woman's Press Associatiou.numbers, at last accounts, over 101 members. Among tbem are in cluded 31 editors, 44 correspondents, 12 authors and 10 publishers. The New York Woman's Press Club was organized scarcely a year ago. The women on the Philadelphia press are mainly enrolled in the New Cen tury Club, which was organized as a Cen tennial outcome in 1876. In every city movements in the direction of organized effort aie being made. Perhaps the most marked success of women in managing, editing and publishing a paper is that ot tbe Union Signal established by the W.C.T.U. Soon alter their national organization its members felt the need ofa temperance paper. Asshowing what women can do when they make uptheir minds, tbey started the paper entitled the Union, a monthly publication, at 50 cents a year. They had no money, but tbey had heroic devotion and brains to work. Those who know the difficulties and time it takes to make a paper "go" with even a good supply of capital can form someidea of the struggle ot these women for success. Then tbe ne cessity ofa weekly paper was felt, and Miss Willard and six others incorporated a Woman's Temperance publication society with tbe object of starting a weekly paper tbe Signal. The capital subscribed was only 55,000, with shares at ?25. No stock was to be held by men. The first few years was a struggle, but when women will they will. Even in the face-ot debt ana all the pre'dictions of failure, the women stood by it unflinchingly and heroically. Kept the Men Ont Presently men saw something in it and tried to buy enouzh stock to get control of it; but, while sorely pressed for money, its projectors refused to surrender, and pushed on. The stock was increased year after year until, by the last report, it was 85,000. The tide turned. In 1884 tbe gains began. In 1885 the paper paid dividends of 4 per cent, the next year 5 per cent and the next 6 per cent, with a solid surplus held over for increasing their facilities. The original monthly and weekly were merged into the Union Signal, which has a subscription list ot over 40,000. This association ot women now publish two weeklies, five monthlies, two quarterlies and a large quantity of books and pamphlets. They have six edi tors all women, except one, the editor of their German temperance paper. The policy of the directors all women is to employ women in all the departments, where they can do as well as men, and py them the same wages tbat men receive, The "reverend brother" who, like Brother Buckly, is making strong endeavor to push women back, should note tbese signs of the times, and accept their moral as identical , with that of the yarn of Mrs. Partington at- ' tempting to sweep up the Atlantic with a broom. It is interesting to note tbat the great Methodist and Presbyterian churches are engaged in a discussion concerning tbe position of woman in the churches, and it is safe to say there will be no more silence on the subject until the question is settled, and settled right Bessie Bsamble. 20 From date of this paper. CRAYON and HOUSE, BKOABWA.Y TKEJLTJZK JBUIJjDUHG, NEW YORK. pxraASjg BB TJRE TO XEVTXXOJS J5CHIS 3PA3PEB, GUIDES TO BEATJT? Fonnd in tbe Cosmetic Pamphlets Are Very Often Dansjerons AND BEABLY ALWAYS AMUSIKG. German Prescription for Those That Most Stand Host of the Daj. THE POEM THAT IS MOST ADMIEEi? IWMTTIX I0B THE DISTATCH.1 Some of tbe funniest reading of the day, next to nationalist deliverances and women's reforms, is in cosmetic circulars and an- nouncements. Waiting in a fashionable druggist's, I picked up a treatise on "A Per feet Complexion," kindly distnbnted in the interest ofa well-known toilet company, and if what it says is true medicine is a mistake from Galen down, and the medical colleges, including Harvard and the Philadelphia concerns, had better try for a new beginning. Tbey hardly hold that "the lymphatics ara. to remove the waste and worn out tissues of the body," Histology teaches that they have a good deal to do in elaborating and supplying nutrition which is changed into the white corpuscles of the blood. No mat ter. There are cases where a little science is better than a good deal. Bead on. We don't always get as much original and striking matter lying on a counter for nothing: "The cause of flesh worms is this: It is nature's provision that every particle of waste should be eliminated from tbe body" connection not (juite clear, but if nature removes every last particle of waste by these blackheads it must be a good deal con densed. "When proper care is not taken of tbe skin and a free circulation sustained, it becomes torpid, red and dry; thus closing the pores, unduly retaining materials tbat have become harmful and useless tt the complexion, innumerable flesh wor.ns are the result, or extravasation of the blood is cansed, which develops into pimples and eruptions ot various sorts." A torpid skin is usually a pale one, and flesh worms are seldom seen in a red face, but no matter. An Entirely New Discovery. "In the case oi flesh worms or black heads the blessed paste is so effective as to remove in a few minutes tbe blackheads that appear through tbe scarf or external skin. Some are deeply imbedded in the flesh, in consequence of their formation originating internally." It is no wonder that this original view is in italics in the treatise. It ought to be copyrighted as an entirely independent dis covery. Never mind how they originate, the blessed paste is equal to the emergency, for we are told on tbe next page that "in tiia case ot fleshworms the paste is so effective tbat, the pores of the skin having first been softened and opened by the use of tha blessed plant, it requires but little time until they are entirely dissolved, thus re fining the skin and leaving it free from these disfigurements." A paste that dissolves the pores of the skin will properly treat bodies whose lymphatics are all waste carriers and scav engers, but ordinary hnman beings are not made that way. How nice it must be to have a skin with the pores all dissolved. Two dollars a jar is cheap for this wonder working paste. If the lymphatics carry off the waste, we can do without pores proba bly, and sit on the grass all we choose with out risk of taking cold. Have your pores obliterated at once and save pneumonia. Fleshworm Paste also cures red noses. "What," asks our little book, "is more suggestive to the general masses of man kind than a red nose?" A white one is sometimes very strongly suggestive of freez ing, still tbat is another matter. The 2iosa Become! Chronica "Many a nobleman and woman have been compelled to carry tbe signs of conviviality while they are most abstaneous (sic) in their habits. The nose becomes red from tbe least exposure to heat and cold. Drinking hot soups, a hot meal or the nse of alcoholic liquors causes this organ to flush red, and in time it becomes chronic" Most noses are chronic, still they don't offer to dissolve them, though it would seem as if a preparation electric enough to dissolve a bole in tne suin might rendersolnble a merely cbronlcnose. Pass,-if yon please, the descrip tion of a ronge put np in book form so that its leaves may be torn apart makinj It more con venient for shopping and travelling purposes, and read: THe ventilating mask also does great things for tbe pores: worn thirty minutes it gives tbe skin In that time a thorough bath, freeing the pores from the sallow or red color produced by inactive liver, &c" Now, If tbe coloring matter, sallow or red. Is contained in tha por.es, whx not dissolve It all ont by this magio paste, and doawav with the need for the fifteenth amendment altogether? It ought to be enough. I am anxlons to lay before you the theory of liver spots. The bile and impurities of tbe liver impreg nate tbn skin blood, and in nature's efforts to eject its impurities tbrousb tbe pores" mora work for tbam acain "(wbich occurs every 24 hours), a portion is retained under the skin. Tbe constant accumulation produces what is commonly known as moth or liver spots. Tha Freckle Paste prepared especially for liver spots, moth, etc., penetrates through tbe outer catlclototbe 'derm' below, bleaching out tba spots most effectually." Great as a Purifier. Dissolves them ont, probably, when tbe pores dissolve why should not the pigment Co? Bnt what is nature to do withont tbese pores In its efforts to eject tbe imparities every 24 hours. How is it that women can patronize prepara tions put up and heralded by such ignorance? One wonld hardly want to trust such fan tastic pretenders with the complexion of a kid clove. It requires little fortitude to remain totally "abstaneous" from cosmetics of such potency that tbey dissolve the very boles in tbo skin. Poor bi-chloride of mercury Is innocence Itself besides such corrosives. It is amusing to see people's leellngs rise like the hair on a cat's back at the mention of bl-cblonde, when they will use vegetable poisons fit Tor tbe very Borcia withont hesitation. It is part or the gen eral charlatanry of this most neglected art A German prescription usetul for teachers, housekeepers, mail carriers and others who stand all day: Three parts salicvlic acid, 10 parts starch, and 87 parts pondered soapstone, mixed and a little sifted into the sboes and Blockings. It keeps the feet dry and prevents chafing. The last humbug ont is a liquid charged with electricity for removing super fluous balr. It is impossible, with any present knowledge, to charge water with electricity to be of the slightest use in any such way. It is also claiming too much for almond meal tbat it will cure moth and freckles. It soltens tba . skin and keeps it from chapping in some de eree. That Is enough for any one cosmetic Tho Tinman form Divine. Girls, you not only want to wear modest gowns, bnt you want to let development ot tha form alone for tha sake of nervous and moral health. If your nj-m-e Is not developed it Is sure sign of lack of balance physically, and you regain It perfectly only by utterly and stead lastly Ignoring all tbat lies outside the pleasant, ample domain of tbe affections and unselfish interests. There is something unnatural, hy steric and repellant in tbe persistence of -men on certain questions of physical develop ment. In older, more poetic times it was ad mired In a woman that ber figure was small, and the old books have more than -one recipe for keeping tha form small. The method recommended frequently of bathin" tbe upper portion of the body in cold water and rubbine It every night Is as risky for tho health as anything well can be, and never should be allowed, especially with nervoas women or girls. Shirlet Dark. jdjltz:& Wishing to Introduce our PORTRAITS pc4g-sH i httxM WQKM
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers