Blrt'ffl'T 'TTTinffMtfHOMIfi T "wSr'T?"3 BTigirSfVT?W&'- 20 THE, PITTSBURG DISPATCH. SUNDAY, JANUARY 11, 189t r i & - FANCIES FORJHE FAIR. Ul Combination Toque, Opera Bonnet and Mirror for an Eenlnc Before the Foot lights A Noveltv for a Table Center Piece Fashion Bints. Being a man, writes Ora Seaney, the Parisian man-milliner to The Dispatch, I know well the inconvenience and unpleas antness ot sitting in the theater behind a hat whose towering dimensions exclnde the slightest glimpse f the performance. A Kew York belle, after being seated in one of the uptown theaters, quietly removed her had and received a vote of thanks from the male portion of the assemblage for her con siderate thoughts of others' welfare. London ladies formerly wore hats of soft felt, but sow wear none at all. Bat this is imprac ticable with ns, as no woman cares to sit an entire evening with a disheveled head of hair, which is the result when the hat is taken o2 without the aid of a mirror, and neither does she care to leave the theater with her hat set on the head so far from the perpendicular as to resemble the leaning tower of Pisa. When the hat is removed, a a stylish and becoming coiffure is an abso lute accompaniment to a handsome costume and until ladies' toilet rooms are added to our modern places of amusement there is no probability that uncovered heads will be the ruling fashion. There is perhaps no place that affords better opportunity for the display of gorgeous splendor than a first night or a Bernhardt. La jgry or Januschek engagement. The Viennese are making strenuous efforts to introduce Email head covering for evening wear at receptions and inform .! parties, and Ready for the Optra. this is sufficient indorsement for opera bon nets. Ladies may have full blown roses or large flowers interwoven in their hair, but this requires the services of an artist and sbsuld only be worn with curly, fluffy hair, and, as the water wave promises a reign for some time to come, it is absolutely necessary to wear a bonnet with this style of arrange ment. Take it as you will, you had best provide yourself with one, two or three ca potes which can be made appropriate for theaters. In regard to size, allow me to say, wear them as small as possible, and the color shonld be one ot the various light hues of the rainbow, with the etnereal effect in the make up, and generally of but one material, and never more than two materials on the same bonnet. Thus, one may be resplendent with mock jewels, another with filmy lace, another with flowers and another with illusion, all together forming a perfect contrast under one canopy and a sight fit for the-gods. The one you see in the accompanying illustra tions is an adaptation of "Before" and "After." The toque as it shonld be worn on the street and to and from the theater is composed of black velvet, with a stylish bow at the front, and one standing erect at the back with a small border of flowers peeping from beneath and dividing the velvet from the hair. Beneath this common place looking affair is the mystery or skele ton in the closet, as it were", for the little toque consists ol a spring, and through this is drawn a small wreath of cream velvet forgef-me-nots, aud the black ribbon bow at the back is attached to this frame and makes a perfect hat when the covering is removed. The covering is so cut as Ready for the ilusic to fit around the bow and entirely hide the opera bonnet. You will pardon the lady for holding the covering before ber face for a moment, for she is" not endeavoring to dis play the latest acquisition to her wardrobe, but is merely gazing into the mirror, which is placed in the top of the covering to ascer tain if her personal appearance is on a par with her usual standard. As the covering is lined with a light and becoming shade of silk it may lay in the lap and form a recep tacle for theclasses or Iorngette. The one here ihown is of silver wire and cream vel vet flowers witb black trimmings and the cnyenng is black lined with colden yellow silk. The mirror should be round and fit in the top of the covering, the foundation of -nhich is buckram and the soft sides are lined with silk only. "With a small amount of practice and a little dexterity on toe part of the wearer the cover ing may be easily placed on the head while the orchestra is yet playing its closing strains. Many beautiful combinations may be made, and, while the covering may match a init-or wrap, the toque proper should be 01 one of the light shades, such as pale blue, yellow, silver, gold, pink or cream. Yellow ' always shows up well under the gaslight and softens and tones down effects that would often seem harsh. The toque is called the "Lens Despard," for,. after the covering ' Mw. ' ,f is removed and the lady sits gazing into the top, it is "As in a looking glass." At a recent dinner given by a Tery fash ionable woman, the center piece was ex tremely beautiful, says the Ladiet' Some Journal, it being an exact duplicate of a fancy that has obtained in London for a long time. A very low, rather long cut glass platter held an enormous block of ice, clearly cut, and in which had been frozen the finest and most delicate of ferns, done with snch care that the tracery of each leaf was visible through the A Frozen Center Piece. glassy ice. Around the edge of the dish were arranged lerns as ithey were growing, and on top were three or four glossy palm leaves crossed in artistio fashion. You can not imagine how effective this decoration was, contrasting as it did with a cover of white damask, white and gold china, white candles, and silver candlesticks having pale green shades. No flowers whatever upon the table. At anv large icehouse where they are in the habit of freezing blocks of ice to order, and where a man with some in telligence can be gotten hold of, this decora tion can easily be obtained. In the London parks more dark blue dresses are noticed nowadays than any other kind. Several have a band of sable round tne edge of the sfcirt, while others are smartly trimmed with gold galons. Nowadays children's dresses are as im portant as those of their elders, and "party frocks" are a subject of anxious debate among small girls at the present momen , writes a London correspondent of The Dis patch. Nearly all the best dressmakers have adopted the yoked, loose-hanging frock as the most becoming for girls up to 12 or 13. I saw a bewitching frock just completed for a black-haired little beauty who has caused some sensation recently in amateur theatri cal circles by her clever acting and 'dancing. The dress was orange colored Liberty silk, elaborately smocked and finished off at back and sleeves with chiffon of the same color. The dress hung straight from the shoulders and had a deep ruche of silk round the skirt. Silk stockings and shoes of exactly the same color had been specially manufac tured for this fortunate little maiden. At the same dressmaker's I saw some charming frocks, made for two little fair sisters, ot white cashmere with accor dion pleated skirts, lull bodice, with a wide white sash, which was ornamented as well as the sleeves and necK with some delicate Bilver thread. As for small boys, court cos tumes in velvet, velveteen and plush, with lace collars, are as popular as ever, and the ones that are slashed up the sides of the coat and laced across with silk cords are 1 YiffttnrAcntlA pnnncrli in mnlrA nnfl Binrh tliat ! such a costume is only permissible for par ties. -, Shoes are prettier than ever. Nearly all are embroidered with gold thread, the very newest thing being Suede shoes which fit, exquisitely and show up well-turned ankles to perfection. Bead-embroidered shoes are also largely to be seen in the shops, and are verv smart looking. The liking for laces is a something that has grown with great rapidity, and, not con tent with having her frock laced down the iront, or at the back, Mademoiselle chooses that some portion of the drapery shall be laced together as well. The eyelets must be well made so that the lacing can be exact as that in a pair of corsets, although it is not permitted to relax in the same manner. These receipts for the "wassail bowl" and "mulled wine" will come in well for your "Twelfth-night" festivities, says the New York Tribune. Th'e wassail bowl is con cocted as follows: Pour a quart of good ale into a deep pan with a pint of cider, add lour ounces of sugar (Ioaf).and a saltspoon ful ot powdered cloves. Stir over the fire until the sugar is melted and the beer is all but boiling. Boast four or five apples and lav them in the "wassail bowl," which in this country, and at this era, we would probably call a punch bowl! Sprinkle them with a teaspoonful of nilied spice. Pour on them the hot beer. Slip in two or three thin slices of lemon and serve with a wreath of holly around the brim- of the bowl. This sounds rather heavy and to our unaccustomed tasie not very good. However, it is genuinely correct, and if you wish, to keen up old cus toms you must drink what the ancients drank. For mulled wine you must put a bottle of wine, either claret or portand five ounces of sugar (loaf) three or lour cloves and barely the third of a grated nutfceg into a bright tin pot with a lid. Let it heat very hot, but not quite boil, over a clear, gentle fire, and send it to the table in a jug with a lid. Beer and ale may also be mulled in this way. Alas, it is too trnel American independ ence is a myth. Our women have with in stant servility accepted the mandate of for eign autocrats of fashion and donned the long street dress wltbont a protest. I do not remember ever to" have met a man at a'rembant counter; butif ever I do, I shall consider that he was either hen pecked into going or .that his name is a synonym for parsimony wherever it is known, says Meg in the Philadelphia Times. But the woman who does not thoroughly enjoy bargaiu-getting is yet to be born. Un doubtedly the happiest hour in a woman's life is when she's getting the best of a bar gain or believes she is, for bargain-getting is largely a matter of faith. She may be an old bird and a sagacious one, ordinar ily, but she is every time to be caught by the chaff of a bargain. The state of her finances or the carte blanche given by the indulgent male upon whom she is dependent has nothing whatever to do with her fond ness for an advantageous deal. It is simply the development of a natural desire to get the best of a transaction. ' T- .-:. i ji. .t...,.... e .!.. .vn-.. In spite of the attraction of the toboggan slide at Tuxedo, the walking craze is noweserredly popular and talked about, JJ says the New York World, discounting it. The thing of things for the athletic fair ones ot the settlement is a ten-mile spin among the groves and game preserves, with a real hearty country luncheon to follow. The average meeting and parting conversation between two Tuxedo girls nowadays is some thing like this: "Morning, dear. Tobog?" "No. dear. Jog." An authority warns young women that the pretty way ot going to sleep with one hand tucked under the cheek is not wise. It makes a fold in the solt skin that by and by helps the wrinkles. The oracle insists, that at the moment when sleep is descending, the face should be composed Into peaceful lines, the mouth gently closed to breathe only through the nose.'and the lids slowly lowered over the drowsy eyes. If this method is cultivated in early 'life the jaw-dropping tendency ot old age will be much longer prevented. it An effort is being made to form, in the East End of London, a union of women and girls employed in match-box making. At a meeting for this purpose a statement was made with regard to the condition under which these poor creatures w.ork that was startling. To earn the sum of i4 cents, or, in some cases 5 cents, these English slaves have to turn out no fewer than 141 boxes, and out of the wretched pittance earned by shamefully long hours of unremitting labor they are called upon to provide their own paste, the string for tying up the boxes and the fuel to dry them. One Pittsburg girl is happy over the re cent fog and moisture, and she was encoun tered on Friday in a street car, unburdening her feelings to a iriend: "This weather is splendid for the complexion. My physician says so, and I go out every foggy day for as long as possible without a veil. It is the London fogs you know," she finished, "that makes English girls so blooming." The visite here shown is of black surah and chantilly.j A wide surah is gotten so that the cape may be made without any seams. It is in reality a straight strip of silk gathered at the neck to a band of ribbon which is folded over to conceal the sewing, and then flares at the front so that the long ends mav form the fastening, says the Ladies' Some Journal. Three frills 'of ohantilly lace trim the lower edge, the lowest one fall ing below the silk. These frills must be extremely full, aud great care is taken in their sewing on, which is, of course, done by hand. Visite of lb-Day. The hood, which in the picture is drawii over the head, is also of lace, and when it is off, falls at the back in the prettiest and quaintest manner possible. An all-white visite may be trimmed with while silk lace of any kind, and the hood will then be made either of piece lace or of a fichu ot sufficient size for that nurpose. A few visites are noted that are intended for street wear, but it must be remembered that this is not really the use to which they should be put, the ladies of olden times being carried in their sedan chairs, and not appearing with a visite upon them when they were walking. , w A New York woman thinks she has solved the question of managing servants, says the New York Times. "I've done too much talking heretofore," she says, "given too many orders, and depended too much upon their not being carried out. Two or three months ago I got a French maid who speaks no English. My French is very limited, but I have never' got on so beauti fully with any person in my-employ before. The first day she came I showed her how I wished certain things done, and being un able to enlarge verbally upon the method, I gave her object lessons. When the thintrs had been done I criticized in the same ma terial way, shakingimy head and pointing out practically where deficiency was, and indicating satisfaction Tjy a cordial, but limited 'C'est bleu.' In this way she got my idea perfectly, and feeling niy'weakness in the matter of language, I have looked after her daily, and almost without com ment. The result is smooth railing in her department, which I attribute largely to my inability to give elaborate orders." A "Chinese corner" is a new decorative effect in house luruishings, and is especially suitable for a library. The more closely the line can be drawn between the Chinese and Japanese impedimenta the better showing it makes for the author's culture, and the more likely it is to confuse the ordinary observer. The pretty woman here shown not only wears the correot toreador hat, but wears it properly. It is of scarlet felt, having a con ical crown and a brim that stands dis tinctly off from the crown before it turns up. Over the brim is a net-work of A Toreador Sat. black cord from which depend little passe menterie balls, and nt one side near the front are three full pompons of black. The jacket that accompanies this is of scarlet cloth, with a collar and cuffs of black fur, and frogs of black passementerie closing it. At an "evening" last week at the apart ment of one of New York's many well known women the guests were regaled with the pungent fragrance of the Adirondacks, sent forth bv jiine cones crackling on the open fire. The hostess had taken pains to import these in sufficient quantities from "r native ueaiu w pKiuit u; kui u, auu i, -.. t hnm.,i, ,. y.u.w 1 h ' m A THE STATE DINNERS. An Invitation the Highest Compli ment From the White Honse. FORTUNES IN THE FLOWERS. Washington's Quarrel Willi His Steward about a Costly fish. CHEESE AND" PUNCH SPOIL CAKPETS iconsxspoNDKxcx or inn dispatch. l "Washington, Jan. 10. President Har rison gave his first State dinner of the season Tuesday evening. It was to the members of the Cabinet and their wives, and the White House was gorgeously deco rated for the occasion. The parlors were so richly adorned with flowers that the Bine and Green Booms looked like fairy gardens and the palms, which in great trees of green filled the alcoves of the East Boom, made the whole seem like a vision of the tropics. The mantels under the big mirrors were turned into beds of gay-colored flowers, the walls and pillars were decorated with green and the dining table was a wonder of floral decorations. It is impossible to describe the flowers which it takes to decorate the "White House upon a state occasion. The conservatory of the Executive mansion must cover nearly an acre and both this and the botanical gar dens aid in making the parlors beautilul. Grottoes Fit for Fairies. The broad windows of the mansion contain alcoves and these are hidden by rare tropical plants, the bases of which are sometimes surrounded by blooming azaleas, making a bright streak of color against the mass of green. Some of the mantels are dazzling mosaics of crimson and white flowers and blossoming plants and great palms line the long promenade corridor ol the "White House, standing against the wall under the portraits of the Presidents, and making an avenue of green which leads on into the con servatory and climbs the stairway to the second story. The flowers of the state dining room are arranged by the hanas of artists. At some of the state dinners of the past few years the mantels have been covered with immense double tulips, rising from mossy banks ot green. The windows are beautifully decor ated and the table has had flowers arranged in all forms and shapes. At one time the aecoration in tne center ol the table was a miniature representation of the Hanging Garden of Semiraniis, and it took 8,000 flowers by actual count to make this. Temples and Ships. At a dinner given to the Supreme Conrt there was a temple ol justice on the table which contained 2,000 flowers; and at one given to the Cabinet there was a bridge and ships which consumed 2,200 cut flowers in their making. As costly as roses are now.it takes about a thousand for every state din ner, and about the same number of carna tions. During one winter 6,000 sprays of the lily of the valley, 400 strings of smilax and 3,000 other flowers, including helio tropes, camelias, azaleas, calla lilies, violets, Marguerites and other flowers, were used. The mantels of the dining room are olten decorated with hyacinths, camellias and potted plants, and flowers are often bought to be addeU to those taken from the con servatory and the public gardens. The "White House china shows at its best at a state dinner, and the rich porcelain ser vice which was bought during the Hayes' administration, comes forth in all its glory. This service was made entirely from special designs by an American artist It was modeled and burned at Trenton and it con tains some of The Most Beautiful Articles in the 2,500 pieces of table ware which be long to the china closets of the Executive Mausion. The decorations of the dinner service are especially fine. One of the great platters has a painting of a stately wild turkey, and the dinner plates have all sorts of different designs. One is a hungry-looking bear restrng in the fork of a tree. Another represents a deer, and a tnird a buffalo bull. The fish plates have pictures of fish on them representing the American varieties, and one of the dinner dishes contains the picture of a raccoon in a persimmon tree with a negro looking for him witb a lighted pine knot. Some ol the old pieces of china are much better than those, but a great deal of the best of it has been sold from time to time to make place lor new. f Mrs. Harrison is the only President's wife who has made an inventory of the furniture of the "White House, and she believes that all of its fine old articles have an historio value and that they should be preserved. Since the "White House was opened by -Mrs. John Adams more than $500,000 has been spent tor furniture, aud the amount of be longings now in the "White House would not bring $0,000 at auction, and it is a question whether they bring $25,000. The Presidents' Sliver Service. A great deal of the table silver has disap peared, bat there is still some which finds a place of honor at the state dinners. One of the most beautiful parts of the whole service is the solid silver service which was bought by President Monroe. The shapes of these articles are curious and beautilul. There are two soup tureens with covers; and these tureens are affixed to large oval-shaped flat bottom stands, which spread ont beneath them like waiters. There are silver cake baskets, silver gravy boats, solid silver cof fee ancr tea urns and there are fine cut glass claret jugs with silver tops. ' Oneof the most curious pieces of the "White House silver service is the silver Hiawatha boat, which was bought nt the Centennial Exposition of 1876. This is used at most of the state dinners, and is always filled with flowers. Here are also the gold spoons and forks which were bought by President Van Buren, and which formed a campaign issue when President Harrison's grandfather ran against and beat him. The glass of the White House is also very fine and it takes a great deal ot it for the wines which are used at the state dinners. A great deal of tne glass was manniaciurea in tins country, and a New xork firm made 50 dozen pieces at one time a few years ago. These were ordered early during Cleveland's term and some ot the articles have an American eagle cut upon them. ' White House Coat of Arms. The American eagle, perched above the' words "E Plunbus unnnif" is the coat of arms of the "White House, and you find it upon most of the decorated ware.- Many of the light glasses are of gold, ruby or amber ware, and there are dozens of punch glasses, goblets, tumblers, champagne glasses, and all of the other articles which make up the complete table service. This glassware is the finest that can be made in this country, and the same firm which turned out this order was the one which supplied President Grant with some of the glassware which he used in the "White House. The table furniture, by the way, was very meager during Grant's first term, and when Mrs. Grant asked her cook to make arrange ments for the first state dinner he found the supply of plata very scanty, and said: "Why, madamt, there is not enough silver in this White House to fit out 'a Iree lunch table." General Grant spent a great deal on enter taining when be was in the White House. He saved no money whatever while he was iu office, and he had so many friends that he cave five times as many big private din ners as he did state dinners. Arthur's din ners, it is said, cost him 510 a slate, and in addition to the regular dinners he dined The Whole of Congress. He was very particular as to his dinners. and they were among the finest ever given in the White Honse. His wines were espe cially fine, and he usually had half a dozen different kinds at a dinner. President Cleveland gave a number of big dinners, and be always served wine at them. Miss Cleveland, during the early part "of his ad ministration, gave lunches to the wives of the raember3,of Congress and other leading ladles of Washington, and Mrs. Cleveland was an elegant hostess at a state dinner. Andrew Jacksoq had a French cook, and he entertained profusely. The night of his inauguration he gave a lunch to all who called at the White House, and barrels of orange punch and lemonade were made to supply the crowd, which came by hundreds. Barrels of this punch were made, and it was carried into the East Boom in buckets. Half of the people present were roughs, and they began to rush for the waiters as soon as they entered the room. The result was that the carpets were ruined by the punch which was spilled upon them, and many a ladv's dress was spotted. The punch was finally seryed in the garden, and in this way the crowd was drawn off from the White House. Ruined by a Big Cheese. The White House furniture was again spoiled during bis administration at the time that the big cheese was brought here. This cheese was as big around as a hogs head. It was about a yard thick, and it was taken with great ceremony from the North to Washington. It was cut with saw blades made into knives and was served out to the guests. The cutting was done in the East Boom and the greasy crumbs fell on the carpet and were trampled in. It ruined the furniture to such an extent that after this time no luncheons were served at the White Honse until the time of President Hayes, andnoino refreshments are served at an ordinary White House reception. President Hayes' famous luncheon was .held in February, 1881, and it was given in honor of the diplomatic corps. More than 7,000 persons were present by actual count, and 4,500 partook of refreshments. The ter rapin used filled two large wine bar rels. It took 400 chickens to make the salads and there were great tanks of lemon ade and 150 gallons of coffee. There were 1,000 quarts of ice cream, which formed only a part of the desert famished, and there were bushels of cake and great store boxes of candy. This luncheon cost $6,000. The guests were invited by card, but a number of the Congressmen invited outsiders on their own hook to go with them, and the af fair, was one of the most mixed that has ever taken plnce in the White House. How Presidents Are Imposed Upon. It is not possible for any but the invited guests to go to a state dinner now, but the invited receptions always contain many outsiders. In Van Buren's day it Is said that persons came to the White House and said they w .uld vote against him at the election if i.iey were not given a good break fast, and Van Buren's cook said that he had the greatest trouble in satisfying them. Washington entertained very well. His cook was a negro, named Uncle Harkless, or TJncIe Hercules, who strutted into the presidental kitchen under a cocked hat, clothed in knee-breeches and a blue cloth coat and ruffled shirt every afternoon, and took a promenade, carrying his gold-headed cane. Washington paid him 5200 a year. Washington's steward was a man 'named Fraunces, who liked good living aud with whom Washington continually quarrelled about the marketing. One time he bought a shad in February, and as Washington saw it coming into the dining room he was charmed and asked what fish it was. Washington's HigrJ Priced Shad. "It is a shad,'.' replied the steward. "A very fine shad. It was the only one in the market and I bought it for you."" "But what did you pay for it?" said Washington sternly. "It is a very fine shad," continued the steward, "and it is cooked to a turn." "But I want to know the price. The price!" "It cost $3," stammered out Fraunces. "Take it away,' said Washington, as he raised his hand; "take it away. It shall never be said that I set suck an example of luxury and extravagance." And with that he drove the steward out of the room, and the shad was eaten in the servants' kitchen. Washington's state dinners were very sober affairs. His guests looked upon him as a little god. Thev laughed at his jokes and did not frown when he played on the table with his fork. The first state dinner was given by Washington in May, 1779, in honor of the arrival ot Mrs. Washington in New York, and state dinners have been given regularly from that time to this. How State Dinners Are Arranged. Fifty-four is the largest number of guests that can be well seated at the state dining table, and invitations are usually sent out for some number between 30 and 50. These invitations are engraved on fine heavy cards about six inches long by five inches wide, and they state that the President and Mrs. Harrison request the pleasure o! Mr. and Mrs. Blank at dinner on blank date at blank o'clock. This card bears the coat-of-arms of the presidental mausion. It is put in a fine envelope, and is carried by a messenger. The President usually sits in the center of one side of the table, with the ladies whom he likes to honor on his right and left, and his wife sits opposite, between other hon ored guests. Invitations to state dinners are usually sent out a week in advance, and they must be accepted or declined within three days. As soon as guests enter the room an usher hands the gentleman a small envelope containing a card and bearing the name of the lady he will escort On the diagram the number of the seats lje and his lady will occupy are marked, ana he looks at this diagram as soon as he has been re ceived by the President, and then joins the lady whom he is to take in to dinner. Miss Gbtjndt, Jb. TB0U2LE WITH TEE TONSILS. How the Little Organs Get Oat of Order and How to Core Them. The tonsils are small, almond-shaped glands lying on each side of the upper por tion of the throat. They can easily be seen if the tongue is held down with the handle of a spoon. They contain a fluid-like mu cous which oozes Irom them when they are pressed. Its object is to moisten the food as it passes into the throat and make it slip down more easily. Sometimes these glands become very much inflamed, and may ulcer ate,, causing the disease known as quinsy or tontiliiis. The swelling causes the tonsils to 'meet across the throat, rendering the act of swal lowing very difficult and producing a sensa tion of suffocation, says a trained nurse in the Ladies' Some Journal. There are sharp, shooting pains Irom the throat to the ear, and (be invalid feels feverish and miserable. Even talking is painful. Cold applications to the outside of the throat give relief in the early stages, and bits of ice held in the mouth help to subdue the inflammation. Later, if abcesses form in the tonsils, hot poultices and fermenta tions are used to hasten the formation or pus so that they may be ready more quickly to lance. Inhaling the steam from a pitcher of boiling water is recommended. Fit a tin funnel over the top of the pitcher and put the end of the tube in the patient's month. COAL IK CALIFORNIA. Prospectors Are Numerous and There Is Hope for a Strike of Oil. Many prospectors are now out in various parts of California searching for coal de posits. Two companies have been formed to search for coal in San Mateo county, where small deposits of low-grade bituminous coal have been found. The largest coal vein yet found on the coast is in Bound Valley, an Indian reservation that will soon be thrown open to settlement. This reservation in cludes rich farming land, and this big coal vein, in places from 20 to 30 feet thickr ex tends clear across the Indian lands. Two venturous men who have had large experi ence in the oil fields in their countv, have leased a big tract in the Mattaly Valley, Humboldt county, and will bore for oil at once. Tbey regard this new field as rich in petroleum. A Sea Bath in Winter. i Ladles' Home Journal. People who are fond of sea Jiathing in summer should know that in winters most effective and yet simple substitute for sea water is a cup of rock salt dissolved in warm water and udded to the bulb. A warm salt huth of this kind is the ciostrefreshiugtonic for an exhausted body. But don't go out of doors after taking It, Just before going to pea is me rigat ume, N DRESSING THE BABY. The Tiny Garments That Protect the Chubby Youngster and SET OFF- HIS NATUBAL CHARMS. Flannel the Thine for His Tender Skin, and It Musi Be Good. PRETTI ARTICLES P0R HIS .TOILET 1WBITTBW FOB TUB DISPJLTCH.1 FEATTJBE much commented on by foreigners visiting this country, are the beautifully dressed children seen everywhere. In no land is so much attention paid to the costum ing of the little ones as inAm erica. In France but scant care is given them, as they are kept in the nurs ery and school room almost up to the period deemed suitable for their marriage. In Eng land, useful .woolen gowns, brown holland pinafores and stout shoes are considered quite good enough for the little girls and boys of the family, and in Germany they are dressed like veritable little frights in cum bersome garments of antiquated and un gainly cut, and of crnde and inartistic col ors. Although lovely infants and children's dresses are brought from Paris, in many in stances they are qnite unsulted to the tastes of American women, and the models gen erally have to be adapted in order to make them salable. A baby robed in dainty gowns of India linen or finest mull, trimmed with lace and embroidery, appeals to the heart of every mother. The fashions in infants' clothing are susceptible of but little changetheir beauty lying in the fineness of texture, the skillful mating and the rich embroidery and lace with which they are trimmed. A Very Important Industry The manufacture of infants and children's clothing ha3 attained to vast proportions, so that to-day it may be ranked among the profitable industries of the country. The mothers of 20 years ago cut and sewed their children's clothes; now but few of them care to expend time and labor when the factories turn out such well-made clothing at scarcely more than the cost of the bare material. Neatness and cleanliness are two of the most important factors in the care of babies, aud sufficient clothing should be on hand to provide against contingencies. The infant's dress, which is shown on this page is after a design just issued. It is of cream white India silk with two rows of Val enciennes inserting headed by narrow tucks and flounced with deep lace. The round yoke is of silk covered with lace. The few seams are neatly bound and the effect is ex ceedingly dainty. The little cap is of finest nainsook, with full face trimmed of lace with ribbon bows and strings. This model is very pretty made of India linen and em broidery. The Baby's Belongings. Baby's trousseau is sometimes almost as elaborate'as was that of his sweet mamma. He has a wicker hamper to contain bis belongings, which is flounced with lace, held by great bo ws of pale pink or blue ribbon; the lid is lined with rows of insertion sewed together and separated by beading run with baby ribbon; there are two straps of elastio covered with satin puffings and tied by bows, in which small articles maybe tucked away; the tray is lined with lace or with trans parent dotted muslin, and has little frilled pockets on each side; the tray contains the articles to be worn for the day, and in the bottom are those held in reserve for the changes which must be made each day. One of the first requisites for the newly born infant is the fine flannel band, which should be replaced after a few months by another one knit of soft Saxony wool; they cling closely to the form, ana are excellent both as a support and for the purpose of Dressed in Bis Best. warmth; they are furthermore a preservative against many of the ailments to which infants are subject. Flannel next the skin is universally recommended br physicians, and the little Saxony or cashmere shirts are best adapted for the purpose; they are ex quisitely finished with pliable bindings of silk, and ornamented with feather stitching. Don't Use Cheap Flannel. A baby's skin is almost as tender as the rose petal, and is very easily irritated, there fore nothing but the best grade of flannel should come in contact with the sensitive epidermis. Flannel barrow coats are either plain, made with a claw-stitch hem or bound with silk braid. .Flannel skirts are either white or in pale colors and either simply hemmed and feather-stitched, acalloned or elaborately embroidered. Flannel wrappers are also very necessary in which to wrap the baby in the early morning, or to protect it from the chilly air of evening. These little garments are'made of softest flannel or cash mere, either in white, cream, or pale colors, and some of them are exquisitely embroid ered. A charming one is wrought about the edges in tiny rose scollops with a design of rosebuds ddw-n the front and ornamenting the sleeves and collar. Pretty little hood-blankets in three-corner ed shapes will be 'ound a great convenience; they are made of flannel or cashmere scollop ed about the edges, and the hood finished witb a bow of two-inch ribbon. Temntlnor little sacks are of silk-striped .flannel, some lfhn .t.,A ..JK.I.U witb A.41 I A it i j1 jia'AjMMj jwhuw jRuwtuuuf iiiu .5 uwjjjBau mb SUCH uutcao. qj msa stitching in silk; cute little bows ornament the cuffs, and strings of the same fasten it at the neck. They are not as clumsy as the en veloping wrapper, and do not conceal the dainty, embroidered robe. Those of crochet are verv cheat) and are withal prettr. knit of fleecy white wool, with shell borders of paie blue or pink. How to Wash the Flannel. The proper laundering of flannel garments seems to be a, problem, and few people under stand how to keep them soft, for when badly wasnea they usually sbrinic and become harsh and unpleasant to the touch. The wise woman uses tepid water in which a tablespoonfut of ammonia has been dissolved, and if soap is necessary it should be white, and a strong suds made. It is better to avoid rubbing soap on the fabric, as it has a tendency to harden it, but sometimes ob stinate spots fail to disappear without the intervention of soap and a few drops of ammonia applied to the place. The gar ments should be rubbed very gently, soused up aud down in the water and squeezed; rinse them finaliv in clear water, being care ful to maintain tne same degree of tempera ture as that in which they were originally washed; cleanse them carefully of suds, and for this purpose use a third rinsing water. The first garment worn by the little stranger who with wide-open eyes enters into his new existence, is the little slip of cambric or nainsook, edged with fine em broidery. Six of these are generally consid ered sufficient, but several more may be added to provide against emergencies. "When baby becomes a little older he is dressed in more elaborate raiment, and is ready to re ceive the adulation of bis mamma's callers. The simple slip is discarded and replaced by the little dress of fine nainsook; there is gen erally a yoke and sleeves of hair-tucks, sep arated by dainty feather stitching, with an edgingof needlework. The petticoats to be worn with the long dresses are similarly ornamented. Coverljie the Tiny Feet. Fastidious mothers allow their darlings to wear nothing but hand-made garments, which are a mass of delicate hemstitching, drawn work, tucks and embroidery edged with narrow lace, of which Valenciennes is the favorite. As a covering for-the little one's feet nothing is better than the fine lamb's wool stockings which come up well over the knee. Black silk hose, although seemingly out of place on a baby, are much worn; bnt far prettier are those of delicate blue, pink or cream. Bootees are made quite high, and are crocheted or knitted of wool or silk, and the tops edged with scol lops. The bootees of chamois, suede or glace kid, resemble in shape the mocassins A Budding Beauty's Costume. made by Indian squaws, the soles being gathered on to the embroidered or feather stitched uppers. Some models shown are of cashmere, fastened with tiny pearl buttons. The new-found treasure is rocked in a cradle of light wicker or bamboo, hung with draperies of roseate silk, veiled with lace, or perhaps celestial blue covered with dotted muilln. There is a little pillow stuned with eider down and a coverlid of silk or fine wodl, embroidered and finished with a frill of lace. Crib blankets with fancy borders which match the trimmings iu color protect his little form from the cold. Baby Most Be Weighed. Weighing baskets are lined with satin, covered with lace or Swiss muslin, the sides being concealed by lace frillings; in this the baby is laid and the silk-twined handle is booked npon the scales in order to de termine his avoirdupois before he is dressed. For baby's toilet there are china sponge basins with quaint Kate Greenaway figures, which have two compartments, one for hot and one for cold water; the powder box and soap dish accompany them. They are sometimes for greater convenience set in wicker stands lined with dotted muslin, and with strong handle.", so that they can be easily transferred to any portion of the apartment. The rubber bath tubs which are made to fold like a butler's tray are very nice things, as they are exceedingly light and easily transported from room to room, or can even b- used in traveling. Puff boxes are of repousse silver, or of porcelain painted with cupids or some sub ject pertaining to babvhood; soap boxes are made to matcn, ana tne ivory or celluloid ones are extremely useful. Thanks are due the Liliputian Bazaar tor information. The girl's costume shown herewith is ma hogany velveteen, which is used lor the figaro jacket, and pleated skirt and prim rose yellow surah for the blouse waist and full sleeves. Narrow bands of astrschan edge the jacket, the sleeves and the bottom of the skirt; five large astrachan-covered button molds are placed down the front of the skirt, witb smaller ones on the jacket. For evening it is charming made of white cloth with yellow waist and edged with white thibet fur. Couhtess Annie db Momtaiou. CTTBT5Q A SOBE THSOAT. Bleat Should Be Avoided and a XJght Diet Besorted To. Sore throat is a frequent accompaniment of cold, but it also often arises from some derangement of the digestive function. At tention to the diet is always important in the management of this affection, says a trained nurse in the Ladies' Borne Journal. If the throat is merely red and Inflamed, with no spots on its surface, a simple gargle of salt and water, or chlorate of-potash one tablespoonful in a glass of water, will prob ably relieve it. Use the gargle fre quently. A cloth dipped in cold water squeezed until it ceases to drip, wrapped around the throat and covered with a band age of flannel will assist in reducing the in flammation. It should be changed when it becomes dry. Meat should be avoided for a few days first gruels, beef tea and light articles of diet being substituted for it. When there are small white or yellowish ulcers i iv the throat there is probably con stipation as well, and a laxative is needed. To teaspnonfuls of compound liqnorice powder, or two pills of aloio, strrchnia and belladonna, taken at nigh,t, will" relieve it.. The diet .lionld Se light and easily digested, a raw egg beaten with milk and 'sugar and flavored with vanilla, nr nn. ltoMlv hailed. 1 : lli j - . "-. " leo, FASHIONS IN LONDON. Tulle, Chiffon and Crepe de Chine for the Evening Party. SWANSDOWN FOR FANCY BALLS. The Princess of Wales and Her Daughter Stick to Newmarkets. FLOWER DRESSES ARE ALL THE RA8B rcoBBXsroxDEScx or thx Disr.iTCz.1 LONDON', Jan. 2. In the month of mid winter the most important point to women so far as dress is concerned is a ballgown. As a rule cheap clothing is to be condemned it looks common and wears badly, and is on the long run very expensive, but all rules have an exception and this is certainly the case so far as evening frocks are con cerned. It is advisable to have two or three cheap evening dresses in preference to one good one, the reason being that at night cheap stuffs look quite as well as more ex pensive ones, aud that a woman who has to wear the same frock at half a dozen dances where she is likely to meet pretty much the same set of people, is at a disadvantage even if she vary her dress each time with dif ferent colored ribbons and flowers. Those who have to study economy shonld choose nnn'4 veiling as their material for evening wear. I saw a charming pale pink gown the other day, the skirt of which was made in long panels sewn along the edges with silver passementerie, whilst the low bodice consisted of two draped folds which crossed over and were finished off with an edging of the passementerie, and a zouave belt also edged with the silver trimming. The material and trimming, I was assured, came to 30 shillings. Good for an Evening. Tulle is being largely used this year and Is of course one of the most effective materi als if the dress is to be worn once or twice only; after that, however carefully it is handled, it loses its freshness and becomes limp and crushed looking. A lovely frock was shown me yesterday by one of our lead ing modistes. It is intended for a tall, dark and very striking, if not perfectly beautiful, woman. It was of gold colored tulle made up over gold silk. The bodice was elabor ately trimmed with yellow chrysanthemums the exact color of the dress, while the sleeves consisted almost entirely of rows of the flowers joined together by bows of gold col ored velvet. Chiffon and crepe de chine are almost more popular than tulle, and have the ad vantage of looking fresh longer. Collars and boas of leathers or flowers are being turned out to match the frocks, and are cer tainly a boon in draughty passages and corridors. No particular colors seem to be exclusively patronized. Gold and silver are being largely used by the dressmakers, and at a smart ball given in town last week the number of gold and silver girdles, especially on white silk and white tulle gowns, was almost monotonous. By the by, at this same ball I noticed women wearing their hair iu'the way that Parisian grande dames are now patronizing, viz: with two curls in the center of the forehead and the rest of the hair lightly brushed back and only slightly waved in front. For the Fancy Ball. There are some capital costumes this year for fancy dress balls. Two worn at Mrs. Samuel Montagu's ball the other day wjere especially pretty and original. The dresnes, exactly similar, were pure white, trimned with a quantity of swansdown, and wlere worn by two ladies who called themselves twin-powder puffs. Their hair was Sowdered, and amidst so muc&i right coloring they looked ex quisitely ethereal. The latest novelties lor fancy balls are flower dresses and if car ried out well are extremely pretty. A daC fodil dress might have a yellow silk bodice with a border of the flowers and a kilted skirt of the silk with daffodil petals forming an overskirt. Beneath the petals should ba llttletouches of green plush and a headdress of the petals and green plush would finish off an effective costume. It is rumored that owing to the dislike of the Princess of Wales and her daughters to the three-quarter length jackets Newmarket coats will still hold their day. I was shown a handsome one by a West End tailor yes terday, made of rough brown tweed with a touch of yellow in it. The fronts open with revers and there is a turn-down collar trimmed with yellow silk. On the basques are a couple of small pockets also lined with yellow completing a very smart little coat. All the new walking dresses are made with far, astrachan and beaver, being the most in VOgne. if ABIE MONNETTE. LAZINESS 13 A DISEASE. A Torpid IJver and Thick Blood Account for Mnch Weariness. Lualet' Home journal. In nearly every case, laziness is a disease, or a complication of ailments, brought on, I grant you, by habits of idleness and ease; but a disease nevertheless, and it is useless to attempt to throw off your slow and easy habits and to assume a life of energy and activity, while your liver is torpid and slug gish, and your blood thick and slow, and everyone of your organs gorged with bile. Of conrse.you could, by a tremendous effort, put on a spurt of activity, if a sufficient in centive could "be broucht to bear upon you, but it would be at a great expense of will power. Planta Beatrice. L WHAT IT WILL 00, Produces a Beautiful Complexion.1 Whitens a Sallow Skin, Bemoves Stoth and Liver Spots, ' Prevents Sunburn and Taa To Travelers it is Indispensable. Keeps the Skin Perfect in Any Climate. PLA1JTA BEATRICE, per jar 11 23 FLESH WORM PASTE Skin Refiner and Pimp!eRemoYer. Will refine a Coarse, Bough, Porous Skin. A positive cure for Pimples, Eruptions; removes that disagreeable Redness witb which so many are afflicted. FLESH WORM PASTE, per Jar. SI SO Our complete line of toilet requisites and manicure goods are absolutely pure, and can be obtained at the following representative druggists. Egger's Pharmacies, 11 Smithfield street. 172 Ohio street, 299 Ohio' street. Bankin's Pharmacy, corner PenA avenne and Sixth street Markell 'Brothers, Central Drug Store, 6219 Penn avenue. Or of Sole Manufacturers, LONDOK TOILET BAZAAlK CO.. Wholesale Office: SOEasi Seventeenths!.. 58 and 0 West Twenty-third street. New York. Treatisa on the mmni.riAn .iti I dress free, or sens to any address on reeefti JUrieenta( Jjl3-7fcMsF ad- nKsw'r
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers