I ft- Mi ft SO x TSB PITTSBTJBG DISPATCH, SUNDAY. SEPTEMBBB 98, 1890, K, ii n -i i in " - PLAIDS ARE SUPREME. The Manufacturers nnd Dealers are Forcing Them on the I.ndle Wanner They Like It or Not IIow the Effect Can lie Krlievrd Fashion's Decreet. rWEITTZX FOB THE DISPATCH. Plaids "bv a large majority." Plaids big, plaids little, plaids Gordon, Fife, Mc-4 Dougal, Pestb, Stewart, McDonald and every other clan; plaids normal and plaids abnormal; plaids quiet and plaids so lond you can't bear their name and plaids nonde script From this assortment we are to make selection, and at all hazard we are to wear plaid if we would keep up with the fashionable procession. Of course every acquaintance will recog nize us as soon as we turn a corner and it will not at all seem likca new gown for we are all so tired of plaids; not that they have been so generally worn for the trial last season proved they were harder to take than a vaccination, notwithstanding unfortunate clerks thrust forward their plalded wares, from parasols to hosiery, with a persistency, no doubt creditable to their calling, though annoying to us. Well did we know death to our good looks lurked behind every gaily colored bar. We were either too old, too ugly, too short or too fat to have anything to do with plaids. Cut now it looks as If these objections, filed last spring, have not been considered; have been "laid on the table," and are to be lelt there; while dealers and designers, having us in their power, concluded to administer a little discipline for our having refused to adopt their check ered ideas in the beginning and have come back at us with an array of plaids un precedented. Trlnmpli of the Tall. Verily this is to be the winter of our dis content. More (than ever will the tall thin woman triumph over the short thick woman. How provokinglr saucy she will appear as she sails by in her plaid attire, with a patronizing you-can't-wear-it-can-you expression. Bight well she knows that, in a full suit of plaid you or I would furuisb a tangible idea of "a cross-cut section of chaos" or a life-like resemblance to a map of the world. Counting tbose who could and did wear plaids through the spring and summer, and who in consequence sow experience at the sight of these goods a nausea amounting to sea sickness; and the great army of us who could not then and cannot now chauge our shape or increase our stature to accommodate the style the wonder grows who is to wear these things with satisfaction. In thepreseut season's designs we find consolation in the notice of the color combi nations which certainly are more harmoni ous and will proTe more universally becom ing than did the bizarre effects of the tartan proper, only beautiful in the eyes of the f lass they served to distinguish. Thanks to a Pa''sian color syndicate we now have them in such beautilul melanges that many of us will no doubt be tempted to adopt them who never before elected for their wear. To further tempt us and the more certainly win us, we now find displayed with the new plaids a haimonizmg plain colored material to be Used as an antidote to lessen or destroy the mischievous effects of bar and check, and the adoption of which will make it possible for us to wear at least enough plaid to keep within the pale of fashion. Jnt a Moderate Dl.plnr. For instance, the first illustration, which shows a box-pleated skirt of the plain, with a showing of plaid between the pleats; velvet jacket, tight-fitting in the back, lined with gay satin and rolled back In front to expose a fedora vest and high collar of plaid; velvet sleeves with plaid cuffs and a pointed girdle of velvet. To be worn with tn is a felt bat trimmed with gay ribbons and ostrich feathers. The most stylish plaids are the roughest, the majority being decidedly "horsey." There are homespuns coarser than ever, but in lighter tints. These, with plaid outlines done in astrakhan effect or in three-inch bars of short and long hair, arc finding the most admirers, though o. Shetland pony might easily mistake one such for bis own coat. Bold, aggressive patterns are the rule; cot infrequently do they measure a foot square in the check. These are shown in delicious combinations of soft grays and faded pinks, warm browns end reds, black and cream, purple and copper. Pale green and aubergine is a French combination, the surface of the mateiial being dashed with boucle effect iu faded rose. Black and white in shepherd checks or in large broken bars bonrette effects, and the same in brown and white, gray and blue, etc, will still be worn, though the later novelties are in greater favor. Grays and browns retain their prestige for traveling wear. Tan and fawn, heliotrope end wood-brown, copper pink with black, ashos of roses with old pink are some of the numerous color com binations. A ftreet Salt. The second model shows a while, black and gray street suit Jacket waist, motber-of-Ti.arl buttons and black velvet sleeves and collar. Narrow black velvet finishes the bottom of the skirt. A black felt hat with gray and black trimmings finishes the out fit. Plsid cut on the bias remains the popu lar fancy. With this suit there is the merest suspicion of drapery. Xf forewarned is to 'be forearmed then we i n'nA'AyJ '"til li mwM turn wWm wwmmm f should be prepared for the rush of draperies that is to overtake us erelong, .aireaay the coming overskirt is casting quite a shadow before, noticed on some of the more elegant importations, manifest in paiyeri and apron draperies, and again in the slight lifting of the front breadth caught high on the hips and held in place by rows ot but tons or a huge buckle as it we had not a surfeit of buckles the past season. Well, let us bow to the plaid and buckle decree with what grace we can and wear them with all our might, like the old lady who hurried up her tea party "just to get the worry over,'' for these things are on the market and they are to be worked off on us sooner or later. The idea that these rough goods are as stiff and heavy as the blankets they so closely imitate is an erroneous one, for in truth they are light iu weight, sup ple, clinging, and agreeably soft to the touch. Many of them have woven borders in silk and a selvedge fringe representing the plaid colors. Fancy French plaids with rough bonrette threads are in the stylish violet and dahlia crossed with gray and black, or in moss green with dull red, brown with blue, or green with gray. Fashion's Decreet. There are some statements sanctioned by Madam Fashion that may be depended upon until the good dame sees fit to change her mind. Velvet is the popular combination for plaids that do not carry their own line of trimmings as in the case of bordered goods. Both buttons and buckles are to be used lavishly upon suits the present season. Skirts of walking dresses are slightlr shorter than they have been, all rumors from abroad to the contrary. Bonnets are a trifle higher, and hats con siderably smaller. Plaid trimmings pre vail lor both. Yokes and sleeves of plain velvet appear npon dresses and wraps made of the new plaids. Sleeves are higher and fuller, being now held out and up by means of a wier contriv ance. This registers another triumph for the woman. Well, "he laughs best who laughs last." Our turn next. Meg. CUPID ON BROOKLYN BRIDGE. Clirn Belle Draws a ric:tr Moonlight Scone on the Grent Structure Dnd cine of tlie Lover IIow Mrs. Leslie Carter btrlltrs n S-trnnerr. rcoBMsr-ONDEXCZ or ntz dispatch.! New Sonic, September 27. ASH ION ABLE peo ple do not use the Brooklyn Bridge as an evening prome nade, yet whoever views Brooklyn Bridge by daylight only, or considers it merely as a marvel of engineering skill and a highway for incom putable traffic, bas seen it in neither its .greatest beauty nor its highest uses. To know the great bridge you must cross it on foot by moonlight The wonder of its mighty caolest the strength and symmetry of its propor tions, iu airy height, all strike the beholder with a weird sense of something mightfer nnd grander than human skill and every day commerce. Then, as the pedestrian passes on through mingled light and shadow, enjoying the soft influence of time and place, he meets, not the hurrying, scurrying throng of a few hours ago eager to get home to dinner, or away from home to some place of amuse ment, but leisurely promenading groups. He notices that the groups are sel dom more than two in number, that they wear an absorbed air, and that so one group seems at all conscious of tbe other groups. On the benches, too, especially tbose in tbe sbaoows, be sees more absorbed, softly-whispering persons. Then, at last, he catches the meaning of the whole the witching influence of the hour and place. The vast bridge is doing the service of a qnjet country lane or whispering grove, and is love's own trysting place. The harvest moon, like Barkis, is perfectly "willin"' that the public thoroughfare should be thus transformed and smiles on the young folk, while tbe hazy atmosphere, tbe serene stars, the echoes lrom two cities, the swish and sweep of something paising far below, glide into that scene of unwritten poetry, music in the air and that sort of thing which makes up the symptoms of lunacy for which there is but one remedy. The bridge knows what that Is and leads on to it as surely ns it leads to either side of East rlyer. Doesn't the bridge unite two big cities? Well, doesn't uniting mean matrimony? That is the way the harvest moon and the young folks understand it. Mistake of tho 8wnlns. . A bundle ot letters, responsive to my paragraph of last week on the question, "W,hy women don't marry," compels me to recur to the subject Is it true that women "don't marry? My opinioiidrawn'ffoBi ob- -i Xi B serration, ii that they do marry, and do it more and more every year. But doesn't it seem very unfair that the distribution of 'lovers should be as unequal as it is? One girl has perhaps a dozen sweethearts, who sigh round and worry her till she is truly grateful to anyone who relieves her ot their attentions (though soma girls find "the more the merrier" applies to lovera as to other things), while other maidens have literally not one sweet heart to blew themselves with. The swain less damsel, too, is not infrequently worth a dozen of thebesieged, possessing all the good qualities, save one, tnat her more favored sister lacks. Xoungmen.youngmen! Why will you pluck the poppies, leaving the sweet little violets to bloom alone? Why don't yon look beneath tbe surface, remem bering that "he who would find pearls must dive below?" But 'twas ever thus, and young men's love still lies "not in their hearts, bnt in their eyes." So it is that many girls who would make the sweetest and best of wives remain unmarried. Many women don't marry because they can't forget an old lover from whom fate or adverse circumstances has parted them. To him they have given their whole heart, and once out of tbeir keeping they couldn't get it back or carry out the French proverb which bids as love what we can get If we can't get what we love. Ab, well! Mar riage at best is a lottery, and Some weep because they part, And languish broken hearted And others O, my beartl Because they never parted. Far better sweet recollections of what was and tender thoughts of what might have been, than a reality that dissipates the early dream. In any case 'TIs better to have loved ana lost Than never to have loved at alt and these women are perhaps happier (though, of course, they don't think so) in the love they gain as sympathetic friends and delicious maiden aunts than they would have been bad they married their lost love. An Agreeable Snrprlie. Don't you often wonder after you have frequently read of a woman, exactly how she looks? I have formed two distinct im pressions of Mrs. Leslie Carter's personal appearance, but that much-discussed lady shattered both of them when I saw her on Fifth avenue yesterday. I had a well-defined belief that she was one of two things either a stout and mature blonde of the ex cessively loud type, or a simpering, brain less, or a made-up little featherbrain. Just why, I can't say, but I hardly expected to see a lady. She was going up Fifth auenue near the unsightly and useless old reser voir, and I was serenely plodding along a few paces in the rear. I couldn't help noticing the tall, symmetrical figure, straight as an arrow, and the two braids of marvelous red hair, surmounted bv a nrettr little sailor hat and falling clear below tbe shapely waist Tbe auburn Marguerite braids and the free, swinging, graceful stride of their owner, were pleasant to look upon. Suddenly a little bundle of type written manuscript tumbled to the pave ment and I saw that my tall divinity was encumbered with other parcels, and had not missed it Of course my male companion picked up the manuscript and called to her. A quick glance at the title page revealed "Tbe Ugly Duckling," and it flashed upon me that here was Mrs. Leslie Carter going to her daily rehearsal at the Berkeley Lyceum. And I was right. A prettv little frown of impatience at herown negligence was quickly chased away by a sunny, grate ful smile. "I thank you." she 'Said, and her voice was like sweet music. Her heavy black eyebrows contrasted sharply with the mass of auburn hair brushed straight back from her white forehead. Her smile revealed teeth that were perfect It was altogether a charming face; frank, gentle, full of purpose and expression tbe lace of a bright, alert, quick-witted, refined woman, with poetry in her soul and a will of her own not easily thwarted. She had slender, nervous white fingers, and the perfectly manicured nails were pink and polished. Her costume was simplicity itself a nattv little black cloth jacket, severely plain, and a blue and white muslin gown that deliciously caressed every curve of her faultless figure, and into which she seemed actually molded. The faint, fragrant perfume of the morning toilet enveloped her. Mrs. Carter has a very distinct and strik individuality. The pose and finesse of the traveled woman, the ease and grace of one accustomed to social refinements, the un mistakably air of high breeding are hers. There was something at once perplexing, winsome and mysterious about her person ality, even as she stood smiling her ac knowledgment of a trivial act of courtesy extended by a stranger. Most decidedly Mrs. Leslie Carter was not at all tbe sort of woman I bad pictured. I don't kuow any thing about her ability for the stage. That has yet to be revealed, "bnt her dramatic in structor, David Belasco he of the flashing black eves and Greek cameo profile may be trusted to develop all the talent she pos sesses. A Illttrlonlc Hostler. Would my girl readers like to have a glimpse of the famous developer of plays and actresses? A little later David Belasco came dashing along with the resistless force of a Johnstown flood. He is always in a hurry, and no wonder, considering his varied and rapid achievements in writing plays, bringing out debutantes and super vising stage productions. All his best effort is now being devoted to Mrs. Carter. He says little, but it is nd secret that he be lieves firmly in his fair pupil's success. Natnrc has been kind to Mrs. Carter. There is nothing unreasonable about her desire that mankind should be fair toward her and give her a chance to see what she can do. Heaven knows the stage need) a fresh en dowment of beauty and brains. Belasco is a perfect incarnation of fire and fury when conducting a rehearsal. He acts every part in turn, he hustles the slow ones, he en courages those who lack confidence, he re presses those who are too self-satisfied, and he shows more meanings to all of them than thev had dreampt of finding In or between their lines. "I felt like a jointed wooden doll," said a fashionable amateur whom he had coached in a role, "and after he had worked my arms and feet awhile, and limbered my spine by a succession of poses, I shouldn t have been a bit surprised if he had un screwed my hjad at tbe neck and read justed it. 0, 1 shouldn't like to be a pro fessional actress under him. He mightn't be as polite in all his energetic guidance as he was to me." It happened that almost Immediately afterward I met a well-known actress. She said of Balasco that stage" people were al ways glad to be under his rehearsing, yet they dreaded the ordeal, so thorough and arduous was the preparatory. work which ms proauction ot a play involved. "But, of course, he respects competent artists," she added, "and is exacting with out being abusive. He is always--a con siderate gentleman to professional ladies. Bnt I shouldn't care to be an amateur sub mitted to his vigorous treatment He might lose his temper, you know." Claba Belle. A LADY MEDICAL MIBSTOHABY. Tbe Daughter ol a Scotch Lord Frovost to Practice In India, Lady doctors are on the increase, says the Newcastle, England, CMonicU. Among the latest additions to the number is Miss Henderson, Aberdeen, daughter of tbe Lord Provost of that city. She has qualified as a medical practitioner, and 'intends to leave the Granite City in the autumn to under take work as a medical missionary in India. M;ss Henderson is a granddaughter of Mr. George Thompson, the well-known mer chant and shipowner, who many years ago represented Aberdeen in the House of Com mons. On her mother's side she is also a great-granddauzhter of the late Dr. Ridd, Professor of Hebrewln the TTuiversItv. and who, half a century ago, was one of the men of "light and leading" in the North of Scotland. vHssBesfistadHttslBBHiis fr-" iiJsJJrBJsstsiEsnlflsssfysn n f-i -iirir Tliiiil?rfrsah''nssfeiJ'- j ; issJJSfan irrfr- - " .fe2teaglfihyh & Carious Cook-Stoves on Which Food of tbe East Sizzles. WASHBR WOMEN OF THE WORLD. The Asiatic Beauty Does Not .Know the Luxury of the Mattress. HOUSEHOLD DUTIES ESCAPES tCOERZSPOKDSNCS 07 TUB SISFATCH1 Washington, September 27. I have spent this week among the housewives of the world. The National Museum has cooking utensils of every nation and every tribe, and you may see within it how women wash and iron, boil and bake, stew and steam all the world over. A picture of a Samoan kitchen has just been received and there are complete, outfits of Japanese and Chinese houses, with models of the women working away within them. The Samoan range is a hole in the ground and the cooking is done with red hot stones. When the people want a feast they dig a hole as big as a cider barrel, fill it fnll of wood and cover it with stones. They light the wood' and when tbe stones are red hot they pull them off to one side and clean out the hole. Then tbey put a layer of hot stones in the bottom of it and npon this a layer of bananas, chickens and vegetables wrapped in leaves are laid. Another layer of red hot stones is put on top and on this is another layer ot eatables and so on till the hole is filled. Upon the top a fire is built and the whole steams and cooks away until the lightly dressed Samoan lady pronounces the dinner cooked. It is said to be a feast foT a king. HOW THE ALASKANS COOK. The Alaskans also cook with stones, and there are boiling and baking baskets in the museum brought from the Esquimaux. The boiling baskets are of course water proof, and the water is htated by dropping red-hot stones into them. They are of about the size of a peck measure and are as beau tiful as any fancy work-basket you will find in the United States. The baiting baskets are a little larger. The food is put into them and is roasted by hot stones being rolled around over them. The shaking of tbe basket keeps it from burning and the people get fat upon such food. Among some of the tribes a small cast iron stove has been lately introduced. It stands in the center of the room and the fuel is often made of seal oil. The chief food is fish and the kindling is grass. The women are the wood-cutters of the family, but they are the wash women only so far as their Own clothes are concerned. Every man in Alaska washes his own clothes and ironing is practically unknown. Every nation washes its dirtv clothes differently from every other nation. The hardest worked washer women of the world are the Koreans. Tbey have to wash about a dozen dresses for their husbands, and inasmuch as every man wears pantaloons or drawers so baggy that they could come up to his neck, like those of a clown, they have plenty to do. FOUNDED INSTEAD OP IRONED. The washing is usually done in cold water, and often in junning streams, and there is here in the Museum a Korean iron ing board and irons. The board is noth ing but a block of wood and the irons are two paddles. The clothes are laid on the wood and are pounded with these paddles until" they shine like a shirt bosom fresh from a Chinese laundry. The best dressed people in Korea are the men. They wear the most delicate colored gowns of cotton and silk, of red, light blue, pink, and green, and it takes a woman half her time to do the washing. You hear this poundlne going on day and night in any Korean town, and it is one of the queerest characteristics of the Korean people. Tbe Japanese rfp their clothes apart for every washing and they iron their clothes by spreading them out on a flat board and leaning this up against the honse to dry. The sun takes the wrinkles out of the clothes, and seme of them have quite a luster. The Japanese woman does her wash ing out of doors. Her washtub is not more than six inches high and is abont as big round as the average dishpan. She bas never heard of a washboard and she gets the dirtout of the clothes by rubbing them to and fro between her bands. She sometimes uses Japanese soap, which is full of grease and she works away in her bare feet No bluing is used and as for boiling out the dirt in a tin boiler this is unknown. WASHING IN THE BATH. The Chinese girls do their washing in much the same way, and tbe pretty snort haired beauties of Siam wear tbeir gowns on them into the big river and wash them while taking their batb. When they get through tbey trot up the steps of tbeir floating houses, and wrapping a clean sheet around their bodies, th'ey slip off the wet clothes from under it and wring them out to dry. Many of the Indian girls bathe in the same way in the Ganges, and the washing in Egypt is usually done by the men. The Egyptian washerman stands on the banks of the Nile and slaps the wet clothes with a noise like the shot of a pistol on the smooth stones at the edge of the running water. The Scotch girls tramp the dirt out of the washing with their shapely feet The Japanese kitchen is nlwavs supplied with running water, and the cooking stoves are little affairs about two feet square, and tho average stove cooks but one dish at a time. They are heated with charcoal, and in both Japan and China a great deal of cooking is done with little round balls made of coaldust mixed with mud. The Chinese and the Koreans' kang is an immense oven like ledge built in one side of the house upon which tne family sleeps during a cold night and in holes in which the cooking is done by day. DOESN'T HELP THE APPETITE. I once stopped in a Chinese inn and took a notion to go into the kitchen where my meal was being cooked. I found 20 dirty Tartars sleeping on one end of the stove, and though the mutton was sizzling away over the open fire my appetite rapidly dis appeared at the sight Tbe Burmese cook ing stove is a box filled with ashes in which a hre is made and tbe food is cooked npon the coals. No meat is eateu and the Buddhists fear tbey maybe masticating the bodies of their reincarnated ancestors if they eat anything tbat has had animal life. The priests carry this to the extent of straining all the water tbey arinK, and tne chief diet is rice. In both Turkey and Egypt the houses of tbe better class have a sort of cooking range made of stones and consisting of a number of little holes under whicb fires mav be built. The floor is always of stone, and the cooking utensils are of copper. An ordi dinnry barein usually bas two cooks and the Sultan has about 500 cooks. The last Sultan before this one took his meals at all sorts of hours and his chef was chained to the cooking stove. Just now the meals of the Sultan's palace are cooked abont a mile from where tlicy are eaten and tbe average beauty cats her" soup cold. There are no more hospitable people In the world. WOULD KILL A TKAMP. Some of the funniest kitchens I ever saw were those of tbe Hebrews of Jerusalem. These people are very poor and tho average family bas only one room. The kitchen is outside this room, in the porch, and it con sists of a little box-like pen just high enough to stand iu and hardly big enough to turn around in. The cooking is done on a char coal fire, and no meat is eaten unless the an imal was killed in the presence of a rabbi. Tbe Hebrew woman of Jerusalem will not touch cheese, milk or batter alter she has eaten meat, thongh if she has eaten tbe but ter first she. don't object to putting tbe meat in her mouth afterward. A great many of their dishes ore cooked in oil, and the pastry made by a wife in the laud of Palestine would rain the stomach of an American tramp. l believe tne Japanese women are the best -housekeepers of .theworld. ' -" i . i tainly the most cleanly, and a Japanese girl has more cleanliness in her little finger than the prudish woman of Holland has in her whole bodv. The Dutch are always scrub bing their floors and their pans. They tie un tbe tails of their cows at night in order that they may not getdirty while resting on the dusty floor where they sleep, and they are sticklers for clean linen and wood. SCBUPUZjOUSLY NEAT. The Japanese girl makes no fuss about being clean. She takes a bath a couple of times a day in boiling hot water, and her floors shine so that yon can see your face in any part of them. She will not allow yon. to come into her honse with your shoes on and she covers the floors with the whitest and soltest of mats, pleasanter to the bare feet than the finest of carpets. Even the poorest of the people have something of this kind, and there is no woman in Japan too poor to be clean. It is different in China. The Chinese have a horror of cold water, and they are the greasiest and dirtiest of mortals. Many of them wear their clothes until the grease and dirt has changed their hue, and I have seen gorgeous yellow silk gowns with a (tripe ot grease two inches wide made by the cne resting against tbe back. When you call npon a Chinaman and take dinner with him, instead of a dry napkin yon will be handed a- towel dipped in warm water to run over your face, and after yon are through it will be dropped back in the water and handed to the next guest Dogs and cats are the broom. The Siamese woman has a hole in her floor through which she sweeps the dust of her floating house into the river. BEDROOMS OP THE OBIENT. The bedrooms of the Orient are far differ ent from those of Christendom. Fully half the women of the world sleep upon the floor or the gronnd, and even tbe richest of the ladies of Asia have never known the lnxury of hair mattresses and spring beds. The richest woman in China, whose husband died worth $50,000,000, bas abed fnllysix feet square. It is made of teak wood, and it is covered with ropes instead of a mattress. Tbe old lady lies on a canvas sheet stretched tightly over this. Tbe Japanese have tbick comfortables which they spread on the floor at night and which they Back away in cap boards in the daytime, and these constitute the bed. There is not a washstand in any Asiatic bedroom. There are many things, however, that the Asiatic girl is Iree from. The Burmese woman never has to wash dishes. There is one common dish for the whole family, and at the end of tbe meal each member takes his own bowl up to the water buoket and washf 8 it ont and lays it aside for the next meal. A Siamese woman has no trouble in making baby clothes. She lets her boys go naked until they are 10, and the little girls are clothed in a string and a piece of copper abont as big as the palm of your hand. The little babies of tbe poor of India are also naked, and tbe average young Korean who is yonng enough to ride iree in an American street car, if we could transport him to this country, wears nothing but a little shift that comes half way down to his waist Miss Qbundy, Jb. JOE LAZY ?E0PIj Tbe German Clock Tbat Lights a Candle In tile Mornings. One of the most unique labor-saving de vices is a caudle-lighting clock recently Invented by a German. As the accom panying cut shows, the candle is placed close to an arm which is attached to the clock. There is a sort of fuse The Candle-Lighting Clock. attachment which connects with the wick of the candle. At the given hour for which the mechanism is set the arm comes down upon a match; this lights the fuse, which carries the flame to the wick. If one must rise in the night it is a nice thing to have a light already when one gets up. GOSSIP FOB TEE PATH. Let the banjo strings, snap, girls; you mnst play tbe harp or nothing now. The newest grape is the Wyoming, which is large and red; it cost 20 cents a pound. A life of Jenny Llnd (Madame Otto Gold sebmidt), is about to be published by ber son. Mkb. Mackay and her sister are said to be the originals of "Mrs. Scott" and "Bettlna" iu Halevy's charming novel, "IAbba Constan. tin." We are getting around to tbe customs of the fifteenth century; instead of having douole bods, two single beds ate now made up side by side. Mbs. Jefferson Davis has received $2,319. her half of a royalty on tbe two months' sale of tbe memorial volume ot ber busband,prepared by friends for ber benefit. In washing, sponging or bathing a child wet tbe bead first. One batb a day is enongh"! or a sturdy little one. one every week Is all tbat should be inflicted upon, a feeble child. It's a fancy now for tbe ladies to wear odd pins in odd places. Tbe pin designs are unique, bat generally In tbe torm of frogs, bugs or ani mals, and are worn everywhere about the cor sage. Tub average man wants to cock his feet up If you said to tho piazza group, "make your selves unieserredly comfortable." they'd all tilt tbeir chairs back and bolst their feet to the railing. Not a particle ot starch should ever be al lowed in a baby's dress. They are more cbated and worried with trimmings than we can guess, unless you remember bow a mnslin frill can saw your throat to redness and rawness. Tuehe'b got to be a revolution In easy chairs. When a man comes along who will take as a model the shape that a boy makes when bo settles and wiggles hlmselt into a lounging pose in a snow bank he will make a fortune. Miss Amy Beli,, a .Nownham student, la tbe only woman stock broker In London. She has been in beslnes3 two years, is fairly Bo.cee.sf al. does no speculative business, has women clients chiefly, and has encountered noither prelndico nor opposition. Sallie Jot White, the well-known writer of all tbat pertains to housekeeping, says: If anyone wero to ask mo the secret of good cook ing I should say: "Seasoning first, seasoning last, and seasoning all the time," and many an other will ccbo tbe sentiment The newest thing In a fan is made of gauze, with flower petals arranged on ono half and buds and foliage on the other, so that when tbe fan is closed it appears like a handsome bou quet, and it is perfumed with the extract of the corresponding flower. It costs SIS. The rarest jewel under tho sun is tbe pigeon blood ruby. Nothing reaches the ruby in rari ty and cost. The pigeon-blood ruby Is by far tho rarest of all gems. It Is so called because it is exactly tha color of a drop or blood fruln a pigeon. Hut these rubies are few and far be tween. Pisetty little tea jackets are the latest fad now. Such neat, open work affairs. A bit of China silk,-white or black, and tbe sleeves and neck of lace. No sewing on them at all. A few stitches to bold them together and a string; scant, clinging and picturesque, with the lace work making them of tbe Uecollette order. There are nearly a million more wnmcn'ttian men in Great Britain, says Chatter, but the dis proportion between what are called ladles and gentlemen is mnch greater. If wo took the familiar phrase, the "upper ten thousand" in its literal signification, we should find on analysis tbat it included 6,000 of the better sex to 4,000 males. Tbe story again comes from England tha the Duchess of Manchester has not derived any benefit wbatevor from the succession of her husband to his father's titles and estates, ir tha history of international alliances arc gone over tbey certainly bold out very little nnennrarre ment to the voune Women who bave anything of the sort In contemplation, but nave not yet wucn tuo icap. .iiViljrj - THE GOSPEL OF REST. Shirley Dare Says Women Work Too Hard to Stay Beautiful. OFTEN THErfcE TQO TIBED TO EAT Few Moments on the Lonnge Oat of Every Boar In tha Day, DIRECTIONS FACIAL MASSAGE rWEICTBX FOB TUX DISPATCH. 1 The letters with which readers have favored me lately have been more than usually interesting m their touches of char acter and experience. They come from all grades of society. Here are letters in angu lar fine lady's writing, so blind it racks the nerves to decipher it; letters with monogram in gold and colors or verified crests; gills' letters in handwriting and wording so much alike I am tempted to think they all come from the same correspondent ir it were not for the post marks, so widely apart Here are letters from yonng women who spend their days behind counters or in offices, but are none the lessanxioustomake a good impression by-fignre and complexion, and letters from lively, sensible women with household cares, whose epistles are best worth reading generally of all" that come, and those which tell of biting experi ence and single-handed struggle which get read when other pages are put aside to' wait their time. PEOM A MOTHEB 07 TEH. Violet, as a woman 46 years old and the mother of ten children, as she writes, shall have the place of consideration. Violet "still pays great regard to personal appear ance and cleanliness," in which she Is a model to some'of the 40 and over, bnt she de sires advice on massage for wrinkles. "What is the best unguent to rnb into the skin, not too expensive?" Massage is doing wonders for New York women, bnt we may as well at the Bame time consider "Daisy's'Metter, who wants similar advice from another point of yiew. Daisy "knew nothing of work, having always boarded until four years ago she married' a farmer, and now of course finds plently to do. If she can just get the hollows in her cheeks filled up and her complexion cleared she will be happier. She has tried the early to bed and early to rise plan for the last four years, getting np everymorning at 430, and is inclined to think it a humbug, for her complexion is no better. Perhaps it she got up for pleasure and not to work it would make some difference. THE GOSPEL OP EEST. Now Daisy and Violet both want to heed the gospel of rest to erase wrinkles and fill hollows in the cheeks. I hope that precions woman never took the notion of getting up at 430 mornings from anything I ever wrote, for I never counseled early ris ing and working hard all day for careworn wives and mothers with young children. Men and women have to learn yet that the Almighty never sent them into the world to work themselves into wrinkles and emacia tion, whether by child bearing, farming or housekeeping. A man, rich or not rich, would be ashamed to have his working team or carriage horses in nse aa thin and overwrought as his wife, or to tax them as hardly in proportion to their strength as the woman who bears his name. There is absolutely no adjustment of burdens to the strength or capacity of women. Slender,' nnqsed to work, delicate in every way, tenderly cared 'for before mar riage, tbey find themsetves assigned to the duties of a servant maid, of motherhood and the head of a familv. and exnected to keen np with the imposition somehow, with scant indulgence till tbe breakdown. IT MEANS IIAEDSniP. There is absolute inhumanity in the way delicately reared girls are flung into mar riage and the hardships of small fortunes together. A mother who rears her daughters for such a lot should see that they are as tough as whipcords and trained to work from childhood as they are now trained for the piano. Marriage and the care of a fam ily in all ordinary clrsilmstances means labor of the hardest kind formind and body, and if girls knew really its demands they would look on a proposal of marriage very much as an invitation to enter the peniten tiary for a term of years. And these overwrought women want to have the wrinkles taken out of their faces "while they wait." To repair such wrinkles they mnst remodel their lives. Neither cosmetics nor massage will do good much longer than the direct application is kept up unless they obey the first great demand of their nature rest Daisy must cease get ting up at 430 to work unless she takes the early day to get the main part of house keeping over and is ready to lie down for two hours. EEST THE CUBE-ALL. For Daisy toiling through her housekeep ing with her baby, sinoe whose coming she has never been well, the first prescription is 12 hours' rest if notsleep in a bed or on a lounge on the piazza out of each 24. If her achievements are limited to getting the fam ily something to eat three times a day for a while this rest must be taken or the family will soon have to get their own dinners, sans wife and housekeeper broken down.. Why, in the name of common sense, when capable help is almost unknown in farming communities, and the mothers are worked to insanity, should not boys be employed to do the heavier part of the work, as tuo in door man does in cities? Boys serve as cooks on yachts and in coast botels, where they do all the cooking except pastry and desserts, wash floors and table linen and towels at a pinch. I have seen as good lanndrymen, American born, as ever ironed shirts, and there is comfort iu having help with muscles to call on. Mr. Daisy should send one of his youngtst workers up to tha house to wait on Mrs. Daisy three hours or half a day, if not all the time, and if she cannot cajole that youth into more house keeping than be ever dreamed of she is not the woman she ought to be. WHAT MES. DAISY MUST EAT. Help or no help, Daisy needs to keep beef biotb, spiced gruel or rich juice of stewed fruit, if not iresh juice, ready, and take halt a cnpfnl or more every hour or two. This will keen off the dragging laint pess which leaves one too tired to eat at din ner and will do as much as anything to fill tbe hollows iu her cbeeKs. A few sins. taken often, without burdening tbe diges tion, will keep the strength and flesh better than full meals and will leave one more ap petite for the table. Too many busy women, teachers and honsekeepers know what it is to sit down to meals "too tired to eat." It is injurious to eat a solid meal in such a state. The nerv ous force has been diverted from the stomach and food is worse than useless It is far bet ter to bathe tbefiace, top of head and back ot tbe neck in cool water, with a dash of lavender after it, the best nervous refresh ment possible, and lie down ten minutes or half an hour, before taking the cup of beef jnice.wlth an egg stirred In jnst as the broth is taken from tbe fire, and a toasted Gra ham cracker, or some such fare will do more to sustuin a woman working on her nerves than heartier fare, for which she feels no inclination. CHEATING AX APPETITE. Often whan appetite is entirely gone a tablespoonful of well seasoned broth or bouillon, sipped lsisurely, followed in five minutes by nuotber, wilt create appetite, simply because it gives strength to dispose of food. All the womeu who work hard tbrongli crisis of affairs, in bnsiness, hos pital or domestic life, without breaking down have known how to supply nature with strength under.strain in this way by nutrition in small morsels, taken at fre quent intervals. And some such way mnst be the beginning of flesh-making and the obliteration of wrinkles. Women with young children and house keeping care's who wish to preserve them selves tesb.ahonld observe one rale as cos fiJSi - Ai, pel of good looks; never to work on their feet without lying down, or at least sitting down comfortably for ten minutes in each hour, whether tired or not The conserva tion of strength by this simple rule wonld make well women out of many half invalids. It makes all the difference between a woman so fagged ont each day before noon that she can scarcely stand and one who feels as if all her strength and good temper had not qnite deserted her. DEEP BBSATHIKG. "Julia," in a very interesting letter, fells how she cared herself of a longstanding case, "simply by long breaths, drawing in the air slowly and as long as possible, and exhaling very slowly. I was ont riding every day for an hour or so, and took my breathing exercise then. The organs above being raised, relieving the pressure on lower ones for the moment, gave them a chance to regain place, and the ligaments their elas ticity. In three weeks relief lasted for an hour or two, and in three months I was cured." "Julia" goes on to speak of a beautiful grandmother who died last spring of the grip, aged aa years and more. "She had all her faculties, a pretty color in her cheeks and was sweet as could be. In that almost 100 years she never failed to spend two or three hours out doors daily in light exercise, and I believe she owed her alert mental facnlties, health and good looks to the fresh air and exercises more than anything else, for I don't think she had such a remarkable constitntion. She would have seen her 100th birthday, I doubt not, but for the dreadful Jtrip." EEESH AIE AND BATHING. Fresh air in sleeping rooms is another need, as it trebles rest; friction to speed the blood through the veins next the skin, only half working as they should, cleanliness of the most scrupulous sort, as all the secretion alter with age and turn acid or viscid, de composing qnickly and giving rankness to the skin and clothes. The hot batb, fol lowed by a cool sponge, if agreeable, is tbe bath for women past youth, and the after noon rest is mnch more reviving if a towel wet in salt and water is laid over chest and abdomen, covered bv a dry one. Daisy, when tired out, will find this strengthening. And here is a tired folks' lotion, good for ait wno stand mncn teachers, clerss, housekeepers, car drivers, growingchildren. Take common marigold (calendula officinalis), tbe strong smelling kind, steep a donble handful of leaves and flowers braised in spirits to cover them for three days. Strain and press ail juice from them, and proceed with another supply of leaves in the same liquor, pressing again. A spoonful of this well rubbed on aching muscles greatly sootbes and strengthens them, or an old towel folded wet with this and laid across chest, loins or front, with oiled silk or waxed paper over to prevent evaporation, has witchcraft "in it to strengthen. In answer to the call for a tonic draught for weakening weather, I give the boneset and yarrow receipt ot a missionary phy sician from China, who will be known to some who read this, it is likely. Take the tops of green yarrow (millefoil, sometimes erroneously called white tansy), and boil a large handful in a quart of water in a cov ered vessel down to a pint, strain and bottle with one-tenth of spirits to prevent fer menting. Steep as much of the flowering tops of boneset, green or dry, iu cold water over night, and strain. Take a half cup of this tea three times a day, belore meals, with a tablespoonlul of tne tansy bitters in it To mask the intense bitter, add a little lemon juice or wintergreen essence. FACIAL MASSAGE. For fnll facial massage, self-giyen, which many ladies are anxious to learn: 1. After washing in very warm water place the two palms on the forehead, pressing slightly, and brush them outward 20 times. The light, even touch is to be learned by prac tice. 2. Meet tbe fiocer tins at the bridce of the nose and bring them down, pressing the nostrils together, drawing down tbe bridge of tbe nose if aquiline, or pressing it upward if flat 3. Bring tbe hands down each side of the nose along the wrinkle of the cheeks 25 times. 4. Hub the cheeks round 20 times. 5. Meet the hands nnder the chin, holding it in the palms 'and rub upward, to remove tbe wrinkle whioh bridles it, 20 to 40 times. This movement gives firmness to the lower part of the face and prevrnts drooping of the innscles. Massage is mnch aided by nse ot the toilet cerate at the same time, as it snppples the skin and soltens the old tissue so that the new, constantly forming below it, can push away the old particles with ease. It also protects the skin from wind and cold without making it at all oily or greasy, and gives it a delicate, delightful perfume. Bhiblet Dabb. SHE ETJ5S A BIO EUGINE. A Frettr Womnn Who Controls a Tvrenty Fonr florseP-oner Jlnchiue. Chicago Herald. There are few petticoat engineers in the country. Miss Annie De Barr, of Cnicago, is probably the only one. She is a tall, slender woman with light eyes and delicate hands, but she can rnn a stationary engine for keeps. Pour years ago she began her rare occupation in the "White Swan Lanndry on Clark street. She was then 21 years old. Here she shoveled coal into the furnace and blew the squawking whistle with all tbe gusto of a man in a greasy jumper. Pew persons knew tbat tho engine in the base ment was being manned by a woman, for the employes had been sworn to secrecy and Miss De Bar. did not talk about her work, for she is a modest creature and op posed to notoriety. Two years ago Miss De Barr took hold of the big 24-borse-powcr engine in the Bee Hive Laundry at Lincoln avenue and Wells street. The machine never had a better master. Day after day It hums and hisses as tbe pretty engineer, in her bright print dress, rakes the fire in the furnace and fills the oil cups. Miss De Barr takes care of all the machinery attached to the engine. She mends the belts, climbs around the shafting ljka a girl in a cherry tree in cherry time and polishes tbe mountings until they shine like htr own pretty eyes. Most peo ple would believe that a woman in skirts and the like would get grimy and bard fisted at this kind of work, but Miss Dd Barr docs not. She i as neat aud tidy when he leaves ber work as the petted maidens she passe on tho way to her home. She runs that 24 horse-power engine like a sewing machine. Miss Dc Barr was born in St Louis of a Pre nch father and a German raotner. Her lather is dead, and with her earnings she supports her widowed mother in St Louis. Th ere is only one more thing Miss De Barr will have to do in order to be a recognized engineer. A complaint was made to the Board of Examining Engineers probably by some envions rival that she is working without a certificate. Miss De Barr didn't know this was required, but her employer is inre she will pass the examination. Mist Anna De Barr. FANCIES AND TADS. Ellen Terry's Costumes in the First Sight of Kavenswood. MARRIED WOHEH IN THE SCHOOLS A Statesman Who Flayed Havoc With Mrs. Morton's Fine Doilies. BEAOTIFUL COilWjLIIUSS A5D F0B5I3 The costumes worn by Miss Ellen Terry at the opening night of theLyceum Theater, London, when she and Mr. Irving produced Merivale's play "Eavenswood," were trt pmphs of art and, what, is more, perfectly accurate from an archteological standpoint, with the long-waisted corsets of the Queen Anne period, very stiff and uncomfortable. and all the rest to suit In the first act she wore a riding habit of peculiar tbick, soft velvet, of the loveliest prawn color, in heavy fnll folds, and a large hat trimmed with plumes to match. Her second gown was of pink and white brocade, the Iront opening over a green and white stripped silk petticoat, tbe brocade being fastened back with jeweled clasps and aigrettes. Tbe third-act dress was a pala blue simply mads gown, which in front showra lace petticoat slightly raised over it The bodice is of bine, showing an nnder one of lace, and is oaugbt across the bust with jewels. Tne last dress was of magnificent heavy white satin made on a really beautiful design; the skirt was looped with jewels, which were also used to decorate the bodice and hair. It is easy to imagine bow charming Miss Terry looked in these garments, so admirably suited to her style. ills Idea at Dollies. Mrs. Levi P. Morton had a melancholy experience recently, says the "Washington Star. A guest dining at her house, thongh a man ol no little political distinction, was unacquainted with the uses of the modern dollies, which is a thing intended purely for decorative purposes and not for utility. Mrs. Morton had just had imported from Paris a set of these luxuries of table orna ment most costly for the reason that each one was handpainted in water colors by a skilled and proportionately high-priced artist. On the occasion referred to tha doilies in question were displayed for tha first time at dessert under the finger bowls. Imagine the hostess' horror at seeing her guest, so famous as a legislator and yet so ignorant of social conventions, coolly dip his fingers deep m water and wipe them with the greatest nonchalance npon one of her precions new works of art on filmy bolt ing oloth. The Vice President's wife was not equal in this emergency to the philoso phy of Mrs. "Whitney, who, when a guest of hers smashed a most precious tea cup, calmly picked up another and fractured it, saying, 'SAren't they absurdly brittle?" Married Ladles as Teachers. The men and women teachers of Brooklyn are discussing the decision of the Board of Education in Cincinnati, which recently de creed that married women should not here after be employed as teachers in that eity. This, says the Brooklyn Eagle, has mads quite a sensation in edncational circles every where, adjoining cities wondering how far the debate ot the question will affect other places. The vote was a close one, there being just one vote too many agains' tha married women. Said a gentleman here, formerly a member of the board, "I should never ask whether a woman were married or single, provided 1 knew her for a good teacher. As long as the husband doesn't objectl do not see why anybody else should." One of tbe chief arguments on the other side is the fact that there are so many sirdo women who need the positions. They claim that, while there has been no ironclad rhle, yet it is generally expected that a teaches will resign at her marriage. Hedge for a Prrttr Face. There'is a very pretty girl in the city who has one of the loveliest complexions, one like snow and roses. Kot only is her com plexion exquisitely fair and delicate, bnt ber mother's is just as beautiful. They use only the lightest kind of powder, baby "pow der, in fact She told me, says a writer in the St Louis Republic, the secret of tbeir snperb skins: "Since my mother was a young lady and since I became one we bave used a preparation, a very simple one, which is simply unsurpassed for the soften ing and beautifying of the skin. It is an equal mixture ot rose water and glycerine and in this is put five drops of carbolio acid. We apply this every day and just be fore we put on any powder. Everybody speaks of the whiteness and softness of our complexions, and it is due simply to this preparation, which is worth a ton ot face cosmetics. Ton know, I do not believe tbat any cosmetic is harmless. It stands to rea son tbat it cannot be." And the girl with the pretty skin shook her dark head sagely. If Milady Is Too Fat. An exchangevtells how one young lady re duced her weight from 180 pounds to 140 in 90 days. Every morning she rose at 6 and immediately alter dressing started on a three-mile walk, lasting till 8 o'clock. This morning walk, on account of the repute of the town in which she lived, she took on the front piazza. She found how many journeys back and forth were needed for a mile, and then walked it at a smart steady pace, rain or shine. At 8 she took her breakfast of a generous cup of coffee with milk and .very little sugar, and a piece of dry bread. Tbe hours till 2 In the after noon were filled with ber usual occupations, and at tbat hour she ate a spoonfnl of any vegetable she liked and another slice of dry bread. At 4:30 she was off for another tbrec Mile walk, this time on the public highway. Her supper consisted ot a dry cracker and a cup of tea. She is now in perfect healtn and has secured herself against a return of the obnoxious flesh. Voiats't hovrlltfei. The "beauty spot" veil has reached St Louis, and it's a much more piquante affair than has been announced even. The veil proper is an illusion, black, of course, and the "spots are star snapeu ana piacea at such correct aud discreet distances apart that thev serve as veritable b'auty patches, one of ibem resting jest beneath the'left eye and the other just near the dimple plsca on the right cheek, not far from the month. This style of veil is at once an addition and a foil to a pretty face. fb Loves tuo Sables, Qnecn Victoria's love for babies by no means diminishes with her ever-increasing number of grandchildren. Indeed, the latest addition to the royal family always demands her special interest, and at the present moment it is the new baby of the Duke and Duchess of Sparta, her Majesty's latest greatgrandsnn, for whom sne exhibits the greatest solicitude. A magnificent cradle has jnst been dispatched by his royal great grandmother to the infant Taxing Iler Admirer. Think of a girl collecting engagement rings for a diamond necklace. To be sure, it is not the thing to return them, bnt I know of a girl, says a Boston Traveller writer, who has been engagtd 13 times, and now has a necklace with 13 diamonds clucked from tbose rings. She wore it as possibly- our aboriginal forefathers wore) scalps suspended from their belts. A Chicago Costertatloa. Hew York World. Mr. Laker I saw the leaning tower of risa while I was in Europe. Mr. Livewayte Just wait till we get our "World's Fair tower up. Thera'U b abijj ger lien on it than any Europe can show.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers