20 FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER. Ebirley Dre' Notion Abont What Will be Fretllpst and 3Iot Appropriate Bicycle Kidlnc for Glrla In the Allegheny Parks Church Fair Ideas. rwMTTEx rost thb xxsrATCB.i A very graceful walking toilet is figured this week, showing the stylish costume for September, a pale cloth dress with long coat or polonaise of the same material, open to showjthe surplice waist and many folded sash of silk. The original is the palest mushroom serge, thicker than that worn for the last three months.fine camel's hair chevron twill, or fine cloth half finished, not so glossy as broadcloth, yet very smooth. The gown has the simple English skirt, which is most ap propriate for walking, the front width hav ing three wide flat bands of guipure em broidery in silk of a faint lavender shade, The Latent Costume. together with the mushroom tint, with lavender velvet laced in and out between the bauds. The waist is plain in the back with sur plice foids showing the neck. The over dress is close fitting, but shaped by the seam under arm without darts, which are need less, as the fronts do not meet at all, and are held together only by the folded iand which Imitates a sash. The wide lavender trill, which docs duty for a shoulder caDe, is satin scree or velvet, as liked. The deep lorearm cuffs in many even foids are the same, and folds ot satin serge chow the slashings of the full upper sleeve. The walking hat is very sensible, shading the face well enough to dispense with the irritating parasol, which is de trop past mid-summer. THE rOPULAE TAEASOL. The onlp virtual excuse ever given for a paiasol three-fourths the year was that of a very nice young woman, that she liked to have something n her hands to think of. The parasol is the ruin of grace in walking, for no woman can move with a firm free carriage wnen she has to bear a canopy or pavilion to shade her sacred features, and must adjust it with respect to every other pavilion she meets. But it is enough on the suljcct, for women are quite prepared to ex change the routine o: masculine life for their own, but not to give up the cumber some parasol. The fixed idea of custom must be credited to the god of flies; the more useless, tirosome thing they are the more impossible to get rid of them. The second figure will also be pronounced stylish and in thorough keeping. The lines ot satin roleaux or of ribbon velvet, or heavv flat silk braid, relieve the light cloth Bkirt just enough, and the waist with its slight decant braiding, its pointed belt in Jront joining the basque hack is one to make the best ol any rounded figure. The velvet sleeves gathered by a leaf of passementerie in a tressy puff, suggest a good way to re model plain coat sleeves by adding this puffed strap and ornament. The old fashioned caps and turned back flaring cuffs to sleeves appear in the last designs, but they destroy a beauty of an arm too com pletely to be encouraged. New gowns in ! ghter wools, auburn cashmeres and barred poplins have the plain long round skirt fiuiheil by scallops, embroidered in the piece, but preferably bound in silk braid, not coat binding. DRESSING THE HAIR. The continental house gowns have a look of Polish or Russian taste, with their half Oriental lapping fronts, damask overdress una looic long girdles. They recall Marie UasuUirtteil and Onida's bewitchinz, naul.:y countesses from the Black Sea iroviaces. These soft-eyed, childish, sub missive, cultivated women are the type most opposed to our paiulully bright, hall- A Miss' Hair Dressing. taucnt American girls, who always seem charged ready to explode. The very grace mi way of wearing the hair which went out 80 vcari ago reappears in the knot of rich curls falling at the back of the head, a style charming iu young women no longer school girls. The cloth overdress, which it is the .fash ion to call the pelisse, very simply made without braiding or trimming, is the style as long as autumn lasts, but it is diversified by large collars, frills and capes of heavy satin, almost kid-like in thickness, or vel vet, in contrast to the color of the garment These additions will be in rich colors to give life to the costume; collars deep as those worn in suits of armor, or collar-like capes will be seen in bronze green plush on tawny cloth, or blood red velvet on russet, or purple on pale brown and fawn. The crimson velvet cape is chosenby young women when additional warmth is needed, sharp fall afternoons, in driving. J-ater, velvetjackets, very plain but admirably cut or small velvet mantles with long stole-like ends will be worn, in tones to shade with the dress. A copper poult de soie with jacket of red brown velvent,or a beige cloth dress with codper velvet jacket are stylish, the hat in all cases being of the same velvet. . FEATHERS IN FAVOR. Feather trimmiug very lull and much curled will replace the passementerie and embroidery for out-door dresses. It is worn round the neck and down the front of man tles and jackets, like a boa, but without bordering the garment all round. Velvet sleeves, velvet yokes, collars and velvet showing between the widths of the skirt two-thirds the way up, are seen in the new est dresses. Flowered patterns and fancy stripes are in favor, and floral stripes and figures are formed in materials never seen nut in plain colors before. A tan colored Vienna cloth has long garlands in copper, red and gold, which with yoke and girdle of copper brown plush is very rich coloring for an in door gown. Printed silky alpacas and mohairs are pretty, enough to console one for not being able" to wear the stiff gorgeous brocades. Figured delaines, cashmeres and cape cloths are beautifuljin color as the Japanese silk capes, and almost vie with them in softness. Sacques and aprons are quietly resuming their places in & lady's wardrobe. These comfortable, convenient things may be as lanciful and elegant, or as nice and tasteful as one pleases, and they add a home look to the dress. stti.es in aprons. Aprons are of washing silk in plain col ors, lavender, violet and solt blue for choice, hemmed with brierstitch and running down the seams, beside which pocket and frill on the lower edge may be of white lace. Or the frill is of two inch ribbon, one satin edge showing as finished. Black;silk aprons in softest flossy faille or the Bsilk serge nearly endlessly are embroidered in gay colors above the hem, on handkerchief pocket, and pointed band, which fastens be hind by a plain jet buckle and long, wide satin ribbons. Aprons of white linen, with bands of drawn work, are for dainty house keepers, and the fancies run in red twill, blue linen and gray, with a little embroidery in whits and the same color in washing cot ton or linen floss. Eegular working aprons for housekeeping and gardening look not- A Street Dress. able and artistic in honeycomb crash, three widthsjoined by red and blue veining etitch on the scams, with red and blue or orange and brown border. These protect the dress completely from rubs against cook ing utensils, sink or rose-briers, and can be washed easily and ddnc up without starch. An artistic housekeeper is so thoroughly charmed with the serviceable linen thatshe has designed a working dress of it, loose enough to slip off and on easily, and the material being heavy enough to need no lining and the seams finished inside with white braid, it will be seen whata complete convenience it is for real work, in studio, or pantry, which one woman calls her "pie studio." UTILIZING OLD SILK. A woman who has several black silk skirts which gave out together, as entirely as the deacon's one-horse shay, past hope qf revival, was exercised to find some use for the remnants. They would not bear quilt ing over for petticoats, bnt she kept them by her till the idea came to have them woven with bright colors, as the silk scrap por tieres are made. But n place of hanging tliem on the walls, they are to serve as a new sort of bed covering instead of quilts, being very light and almost as warm as down comfortables. A thin washing blanket is laid over .the 6heet, then one or more of these woven scrap-comfortables coos under the spread, and a light, de liciously warm cover is the result. Hand some ones, shot in the gold, orange, russet, and crimson frayed wool being used for col oring if silk is scarce, will answer for lounge blankets. Many ladies will be pleasel with some sort of use for wornout silk, hitherto most useless of materials. The prettiest way of making it useful, however, is a tedious one. The scraps are nil joined, rayed on both edges half an inch, and drawn up by the center into a thick fine chenille, very hand some for fringes or if ouc ever had enough of it, for the cord draperies in doorways. One can hardly imagine how beautiful the work is, or bow elegaut a door curtain of this sort can be. NEAT rXOOE COVEKINO. An admirable invention lor covering floors, is the tiled floorcloth, one of the oxydized paint series like linoleum, lin crusta, and linspar. It is an English manu facture, the material a kind of solid paint, which shows the same color through its quarter inch of thickness. It comes iu the best tile patterns and mellow colors of burnt tiles yellow-brown harmonizing with dark brown and brownish red, or iaint slaty blues and red, with ochre yellow, or brilliant Byzantine patterns. The material is really tile work, checks and pieces of the solidified paint fitted together, and must be perfectly damp proof, warm and silent, which burnt tiles are not. The tilecloth comes in pieces two yards wide and 20 yards long, and must be nearly indestructible. In houses with floors as poorly laidf as they are in most American dwellings, it is a serious matter to get them artistically cov ered, to be warm and yet dust proof, agree able to the head and not requiring to be taken up every year, or changed in five years' .wear. For halls, passages, dining and sleeping rooms, studios and nurseries, the tile cloth is admirable. Until we have inventions to sling chairs and cabinets in the air while carpets are anonymously rolled up, removed, cleansed and put down again, they will remain the occasion of much nnhealthiness iu the household, not more by their absorption of everything wicked in the way of dust and smells, than by the tasking drudgery of keeping them swept. B-WXEFIKO THE CARPETS. The hardest work in a servant's routine is sweeping thick carpets. It strains more muscles, offers more dangerous dust and flue to inhale than all the other work on a floor. Bugs, if of any size, are a delusion, for a half-sized Smyrna mat is heavy as a whole carpet, and the beating they get at the hands of genteel housemaids is careful not to disturb the body of dust Inlaid floors are costly to lay and to keep in order, as they must be wip'ed and polished more or less daily, or they are as delightful as a piano case with the dust on. Few floors are good enough to bear the dark paint and shellac which makes the most satisfactorily cheap finish, clear and handsome as pol ished black oak at the expense of sweeping with a damp mop daily, which is easy as dusting the piano lid aforesaid, and re varnishing once in six months at 30 cents a room. It is cheap, letting the household off so much drudgery, dust and discomfort, pins the brilliant, clean effect But few floors are smooth enough to be satisfactorily polished this way, and:in pre paring for comfort in winter, the wise house keeper finds nothing available so warm, soundless and pleasant in every way but one, as the thick plain corticine, a quarter inch through, and feeling to the foot much like elastic sole leather. If there could be some way of decorating it, in East India color ings for instance, dying is right through, in patterns, without the tac-tac left by a painted surface and without gloss, it would be an ideal floor covering. Carpets are mere dust and disease traps, and the sooner we get rid of them the better. Cotton carpets ot fast dye, firm weaving and good design would be far better than wool ones which have a fatal property of absorbing everything they should not FUN AT THE FAIBS. The season of fancy fairs is not far dis tant, and veteran managers are planning for attractions as far ahead as managers of the theatrical sort. The newest diversion in English and continental fairs is the cafe chanlant, in a separate room, where ladies of condition get themselves up as mnch like Judic and the music hall stars as possible, and from a music stage charm the audience with the airs and graces of those singers. It is strictly correct, being imitation naughti ness only, acd safe for a bishop's wife to at tend, and it is surprising how closely the daughters of careful honses reproduce the "fetching" effects of the variety stage. If the Spanish dance, a la Carmencita could only be put on the dais for the next hospital fair, bow many ladies would be found equal to filling the role, and how it would drawl If Pittsburg's seminaries could not furnish girls able to reproduce Carmencita's glances and poses, Vassar and Wellesley could. For a good cause, Boston now, for ex-' ample, does not require such high special bills oi fare. Two things you can depend on hearing at any public or semi-public oc casion there; Mrs. Julia "Ward Howe reads her Battle Hymn of the Kepublic. and tells how it came to be written; and Mrs. some body else gives a whistling solo. They had them at the "Woman's Belief Corps meeting in Tremout Temple, Grand Army week, and were to have them at a lawn party the day before or was it a reading of poetry in place ot whistling? I heard of a good pious woman tell of a Chicago mission Sun day school when of an afternoon a man and his wife played the cornet together, and an other woman gave a whistling exhibition, that was to draw the masses, and I should think it wouldl BIDING IN THE PARKS. A nice girl wishes to know if it will be proper for her to ride a bicycle or a tricycle alone iu Allegheny Parks, as she is very fond of the exercise needs it, and has no one to go with her. If she had only written Mr. Ward McAllister, of New York, about the matter she would stand a chance of an opinion she could fall back on. It is mor ally certain that most city circles who want to be nice would promptly declare it im proper for a young lady to ride anything in the park unattended. But I am not snre that Mr. McAllister, surveying the situa tion, ot needed outdoor exercise and the im possibility in certain wide circles outside his own of always commanding the escort of a father, a brother, or a groom as escort, and calling on the clear common sense which marks his decisions, would not tell her to put on a plain gown, co out in the forenoon or early afternoon before the park is filled with riders, and behave like a good girl, at tending strictly to her own business. There must be care to preserve these outdoor liber lies for women, which means so much to theithealtb and spirits. "We can't afford to have our nice middle class girls hampered by the hallucinations of the upper circle concerning the indispens ability ot chapersns and escorts if a girl goes out in plain daylight If we do, the middle class girls may turn out as badly as some of the upper ones. They may cling to their formal proprieties they seem to need them for chaperons, escorts, grooms and footmen don't seem to keep them from com ing to grief often. A NEEDED LIBERTY. But cycling is so fascinating and needed a sport, orth all the gymnastics in the coun try for development ot health and activity, that the good sense of the community or the better part of it should protect women in that and all other needful and gracious lib erty. But you want to use freedom without abusing it. You wast to dress quietly, not to draw attention, and I do not think the blue flriped flannel skirt with cream Zouave jacket covered with gilt buttons depicted by a woman rider in a cycling paper at all lady like or quiet ;It could be seen a mile ahead and would of itself say to any man rider "lollow me." A cycling habit should be severely plain as a riding habit, all one grave color and not a thread of white trimming or a gilt button abont it, and for good taste no jockey cap, with its slangy suggestions, but an English Gipsy hat, small, but shading the face well. In a quiet dress no nonsense of divided skirt keeping herself to htrself. attending strictly to her own business, a girl is safer on a bicycle than on foot in the park, provided she kuows how to ride well. She has no business in a public place till she has mastered her wheel, and then she wants to leave the ambition of "breakiug records" entirely alone. It is altogether too easy for a loolish vanity to ruin one's health for life by riding too many miles a day, and so bring disrepute on a most delighttul and graceful sport Shirley Dare. Cork Covering' ior steam Pipes. Cork is extensively used in France both for steam pipes and as a protection of water service pipes against frost One of the great advantages of tbis use of cork is that with it no chemical action injurious to the pipes can take place, which cannot be said of many compositions brought into requisi tion for similar purposes. The chiet point to be watched is that the cork is exactly in contact with the pipes, so that no circula tion of air takes place between the covering and the pipe. " THE PITTSBURG- DISPATCH, NELLIE BLTIS EICH. Her Globe-Trottinc: Brought $13,000 . and a $10,000 Contract. MISS BISLAHD FAKED WELL, TOO. The largest and Most Wonderful Piece of Jewelry in America. ENGAGEMENT KINGS OUT OF STILE ICOSRXSFOXDXXCX OT THX MSPATCB.I Ne-wYobk, September 6. -The field of woman's work steadily grows in New York, and there are now 20 women working on the daily papers where one worked ten years ago. Some of the girls are having phenomenal success, and I hear Jhat Nellie Bly has made her fortune from her tour ronnd the world. In tho first place she got a good salary from the paper, and her lect ure tour brought her in jnsi $9,500. A Brooklyn real estate man gave her a lot in that city, and she was presented with an other lot in Iron City, Tenn. These lots are worth at least $1,500, and so her net profits up to date have been at least 513,000. In addition to this, 10,000 copies of her book have been issued, and a second edition' will soon be published. Her reputation has gone up like a shot, and she has, I am told, decided to leave newspaper work, and has contracted with N. Xi. Munroe to write serial stories of weeklv installments for his storv paper. She is to get $10,000 for the first" year and $15,000 a year for the next two years to come, and she has at the same time tne right to do some outside work. Tbis is big pay for a girl of the age of Nellie Bly, and she will be the highest salaried young woman in the United States. THE OTHEB GLOBE TROTTER. Miss Elizabeth Bisland, the other little girl who went around the world, has also done well. Her articles, beautiiully illus trated, have been published right along in the Cosmopolitan Magazine, and they will be issued in book form when completed. Miss Bisland has made a contract with the magazine to go abroad for them and she is now in England writing an article a month. She made some very valuable friends dur ing her tour, and one of these was a noble lady, who has a beautiful country estate not far from London. It is at this lady's house that Miss Bisland is stopping, and she has had through her the entree to the best En glish society. She was present at the Prince of "Wales' garden party not long ago, and she is in the very cream of the swim. She is, I judge, not more than 22 years old, is a very pretty girl, and is one of the most facile writers of her sex. I met Mrs. Frank Leslie at Mt McGregor the other day. She looks as bright as a dollar and as iresh as a flower. Her health has evidently not suffered through her ab sence from the Marquis de Louville. and she is all ready to go in the lecture field, her season for which commences on-the 12th of October. She gets $200 a night clear, and I don't know but what she gets a percentage of the receipts over this amount A GEEAT BUSINESS HEAD. There is no brighter business woman in the United States than she is, and she can make a bargain with the ordinary Yankee and beat 'him. She took Frank" Leslie's publications when they were worth nothing, and the result is an old story. She bonght her own paper, hired all her own employes, passed upon editorial matters, and wrote both stories and leading articles. She is now writing a syndicate letter. When she contracted for the letter, she said: "The people seem to think that I am merely a business woman, but I want to show them that I have some literary traits as well." I asked Mrs. Leslie one day how she man aged to keep so fresh and bright, notwith standing the work and worries that were en tailed upon her by her position. She re plied: "I do everything by system, and I take good care of myself. As soon as I get up in the morning I jump into a cold bath, then give myself a good rnbbing, and in light dress go through a -set of gymnastic ex ercises, which keeps my system in thorough trim. I live well, get as much of the good out of life as I can, and keep myself as far as possible at peace with humanity." Mrs. Frank Leslie is a good dresser. Her clothes become her, and she has some of the finest diamonds in the United States. A WONDERFUL JEWEL. Speaking of diamonds, I saw at the Grand Union garden party at Saratoga, what is said to be the largest single piece of jewelry ever made in this country. It is 2J to 4 inches wide, and at least 8 inches long. It was worn by the wife of the rich sporting man, Hankins, of Chicago, and one ot the most noted jewelers ot the country tells me that it is worth more than $15,000. It consists of a great butterfly with out stretched wings, made ot diamonds, eme ralds, rubies and sapphires. It is the largest butterfly ever made and it contains 200 dia monds. The butterfly has a body made of a great Hungarian opal, and the tail of the butterfly is of emeralds. This is fastened to a diamond necklace and it rests just at the edge of the collar bone, with the tail extend ing down on the bosom of the wearer's de collete dress. Fastened to the body of the butterfly, and banging down below it is a great oval mass of gold and diamonds as big around as a door plate, which rests upon the chest The exact dimensions of this ornament are 5 inches long and 2 inches wide. The base is of solid gold and there is a blazing ring of 76 large diamonds around the edge. Upon the face of the gold door plate is Mrs. Hankin's monogram in dia monds, and the whole ornament weighs over a pound. A MATTES OF TASTE. Every time Mrs. H. breathes she lifts this $15,000 worth of gold and diamonds.and every time she sighs this fortune goes down, and then rises spasmodically upward. I will not say that the ornament is in the best of taste. It is certainly gaudy enough, and it is only one, of what constitutes perhaps the most costly collection of jewels at any watering place this season. Mrs. Hankins has hoop earrings of diamonds, each of which is as big around as trade dollars, and in the center of these are great solitaire dia monds, each weighing 10 carats, which are worth lrotu $3,000 to $4,000 a piece. These arc detachable and she can take them off and wear them by themselves. She has a set of bracelets, each about an inch wide and made of four rows ol precious stones. First there i3 a row ot rubies, then a row of great white diamonds, then a row of emeralds and lastly one ot turquoises. She has her fingers covered with diamond rings, and at one of the balls at Saratoga she wore $100,000 worth of diamonds at one time. Scandal whispers that these dia monds have all come from horse races and the other profitable amusements of the first class sporting men. THE ENGAGEMENT GIFT. The display in the jewelry windows this fall is finer than has ever been before, and New York would take the prize at a national exposition, for its number of fine jewels. The styles in jewelry are changing, and it is now the fashion to buy a diamond ornament or an engagement present rather than a diamond ring. The reason why is largely because you cannot put enough money into a ring and the ornaments always make the better show. I saw a little dog made of diamonds yesterday, and I am told that the prospect is there will be a steady rise in precious stones from now on. The wearing of opals has become quite a fashionable fad, and the best of onr girls sneer ut the idea of there being any fatality connected with them. There are some, how ever, who shudder as they put them on, bnt the goddess of fashson overrides fear as she does everything else, and they wear them all the same. -The popularity of the opal comes largely from Queen Victoria, who has been making a number of presents of them, and who likes them I doubt not because they arc cheap. English people tell me the old Queen gets closer and closer every day, and SUNDAY, septeMSIS though her fortune amounts to millions of pounds, she is as careful of the pennies as eyer. THE GEANT COTTAGE. "While at Mt McGregor I vteited the Grant cottaee. It is in the same condition now as it was when Grant died. The same furni ture stands in the same places, aod the tal low candle, half burned down to the socket, stands on the table beside the two great armchairs in which he breathed away his last hours. Pieces ot his last writings, con sisting of slips from his pad, are shown, and there is a tall, fine looking soldier in uni form who sleeps in the cottage and takes care of the relics. There are on the average about 24,000 visitors a year now, and many pathetic incidents occur. Nearly everyone that comes wants to take away some memento of the place, and many pick up the eravel of the walk around the house, supposing that they are carrying off stones trodden by the foot of Grant The truth is that this gravel has to be renewed every month on account of these relic hunters, and thestones they carryawayhaveneverseen Grant Mr. Arkell, who o"wns the mount ain, tells me be was offered $35,000 for the cottage the other day, and that the men who offered this were Western men, who said they wanted to cut up the cottage and sell it for relics. The probability is that they would have taken it to pieces, have carried it off to Chicago and shown it there at the Exposition. MBS. GRANT'S EING. "Speaking of Mt. McGregor recalls some curions incidents of the funeral which have not, I think, gotten into the papers. One was as to Mrs. Grant's ring, which the General always wore, and which was taken off from his finger a lew days before he died. It was put on again when he was in the coffin and at the same time a lock of Mrs. Grant's hair and a note of farewell from her was slipped into the inside pocket of his coat The Rev. Dr. Newman, who was present it the funer al, told me of this circumstance, and it was one ol other curious things which took place at the time. I meet everywhere the lady clerks of the Government departments at "Washington. All seem to have one rule and that is not to talk shop away from "Washington, and you would never imagine that many of the ap parently most frivolous of them hold good positions and make from $1,000 to $1,500 a year by their brains and hands. Some of them are very silly in their being ashamed of their work and a few pretend to a wealth that they have not I saw one of these do a very extravagant thing in one of the lead ing" jewelry stores here yesterday. A FORTY-DOLLAR FLASK. She came in with a friend and asked to see some pocket flasks of solid silver. She was shown a beantiful halt-pint bottle en cased in silver. She looked at it a moment and asked the price. The storekeeper told her it was $10. "But," said she, "this can't be solidl I want to give the flask to my 'fellow,' and it must be of solid silver." "But," said the man, "the solid flasks are so expensive that we don't keep them in stock. I can order you one, but it will cost you $40." "AH right," said the young $l,000-a-year maiden. "I want it and you may order it" It struck me at the time that $40 was a good deal for a wbiskv flask, and I am won derine what dude in "Washington will carry it I would not be surprised bnt that the young lady would bear watching. I don't mean to say that there are many department girls who are this foolish. There is more good marriageable material going to waste in "Washington than any where else in the country, Massachusetts and its 80,000 old maids not excepted. The young lady who married Mr. Jones, of the St Louis Republic, is having a gay time in Paris, and a private letter states that Jones has just bought a pair of earrings for her which cost just twice what the youug lady made in a whole year while here. She is getting lots of fine dresses, and she will prob ably be one of the best-dressed women at "Washington dnring the nextseason. MISS Geundt, Jr. HAUGHTY SHOP MAIDEJJS. The Factory Glrla of Norfolk Keep Tbelr Dlsnity Wltb Theat. t New York "World.! " The best class of factory girls in the Union are thought to belong to the Norfolk mills. The black sheep has yet to be found and the smallest scandal written about these blithesome and beautiful Southern girls. Most of them are Virginians by birth, proud as their ancestors ever were and hopeful of winning a better place in the industrial world than tbey now dignify. No foreman or superintendent would dare to address one of the haughty maidens by her first name. When enrolled on the books she refuses to give her Christian name. "What name?" was asked a new-comer in a woolen mill re cently opened. "Miss Clayton." x "And your Christian name?" "That is an impertinent inquiry. I wish to be known in the mill as Miss Clayton." And so she is. So are all these industrious, unobtrnsive young women. ONLY MULES SUBYIVE Men and IIorc soon Fat to Flight by the Mosquitoes ol Noplei, Fin. There are lots of mosquitoes aronnd Naples. Fla., but they are not of the same variety as the Jersey ones. They don't sing. They land on the skin, and you can clap your hand down on them and kill them much more easily than the ordinary mos quito. They are awful pests, however. I have never seen but one horse at Naples. Everybody has mules for working and for driving alike. The mosquitoes simply set the horses crazy. Their skins are so thin that they cannot stand it Mules go through all right. I have always had a curiosity to know how the army got along there. Naples was at one time the headquarters of General Hancock, and Generals Harney and Turner, of St. Louis, hIso' had a turn there. If they kept horses they must have had a jolly time. Antidote for Ilydrophobln. A German professor claims to have dis covered a solution which completely neu tralizes the poison introduced into a sys tem by the bite of a mad dog. The solu tion consists of chlorine water, salt brine, sulphurous acid, permanganate of potassium and eudalyptus oil. Ilonrly Consumption ofGnt, An instrument forascertainingthe hourly consumption of gas has been patented. The quantity ot eas passing can be read off on a scale, which is marked to show the hourly consumption in cubic feet ODDS AND ENDS. CEiarsD hair will be fashionable this winter, says a far-famed designer ot coiffures. Miss Hattie Blaise Is said to be the pret tiest and pluckiest canoeist in bar Harbor. ALL gloves for street wear fit loosely. Pinched bauds went ont of fashion wltb crarued feet Toilet vinegar Is mado by pouring any scent or cologne In tho bath. Tho faint, sweet smell that will hang around the bather is worth a yard of sachets. It has been pronounced an exquisite and ar tistic fashion to bind the hair vith a lillet of gold and girdle Ibo waist of a wluto or light dress with a silver chain. THEHEaro 6,000,000 kitchens in the United States, in which 200.000 barrels of good Ameri can floor are annually wasted by pie artists, biscuit builders and bread architects. Just now the Idol of the Boston girls is a Sioux Indian. The .copper-colored hero, C. A. Eastman, was graduated at the Boston Uni versity last June and is literally treading on hearts. The Duchess of Marlborough has taken to wearing pearls about her throat. With an in come of 575,000 every six. months this is aloxury In which the beautiful almond-haired lady can indulge. Now for a mahogany hair craze."" We bavo canary blondes, coppery brunettes and cham pagne and gold mediums, but a new classifica tion will bo needed when tho girl with the mahogany halo arrives. 7. 1890 CLARA BELLE'S CHAT. Eesult of the Extravagance Displayed at the Snmmer -Kesorls. TALKING AT MEALS FOE PAT MEN. Freddy Gelhard Has Cast Off the Lily and Worships a New Flame. AN ENYIED TENOR AND HIS DIET rCOE&ESFOXDENCE Or TUB DISPATCH. New Yor.K, September C. BE last question at Newport for the sum mer, actually, is whether a young lady may scratch her foot where a mosquito has bitten it. Of course there is no donbt ot the propriety of her doing so in privacy, or with a toe behind the curtain of her skirts, but may she reach down with her hand, before men folks, and scratch with her neatly manicured nails the-itching cuticle? Some of the nicest daughters ot wealth and fashion are doing it, and the scratchers are likely to triumph over the anti-scratchers. "Well, the summer is over. One writer complains that the brilliant season has by its silly extravagance developed a great deal of snobbery. Perhaps; but snobbery is not without its uses, juit as the loudly-dressed woman enha nces the triumph of the artistic costume. It may be true that young people have been spoiled by this extravagance, and that those who attempt to give brilliant entertainments next winter will find that extraordinary efforts must be made to pro cure dancing men, for instance. It is pre dicted that favor for the german will reach great values, and that a good leader will have no difficulty in filling his bachelor quarters with bric-a-bric to the value of several thousand dollars. MUhX PAT FOB DANCEBS. The old saying that those who dance must pay the fiddler, will call for revision. It will be the dancer who must be paid for. "Well, where will it all end? I'll tell you. It will end in someone's organizing a com pany to supply trained waltzers, in numbers to suit These "dancing machines" for such they will be will be furnished at cer tain rates. They will make their appear ance iu exquisitely neat aud fashionable at tire and be placed in groups here and there in the ball-rooms. They will not be per mitted to speak to their fair partners,;and, after using, will be returned to their place like a file of newspapers. This arrangement wjll free the boys from the servitude of the waltz and german, and enable them to retire to the smoking and card rooms whenever the notion takes them. There will be no such thing as exhausttng these hired dancers, and the young ladies will be able to revel in the poetry of motion. "That's a big joke on Cyril." I heard several of my friends make this remark to each other, and I determined at last to in stitute inquiries as to what that big joke was.even ii I were reproved for my feminine curiosity. "Well, it seems that Cyril; who is what the boys call a "jolly good fellow" and a tremendous eater, had been increasing weight so rapidly that his doctor limited him to a cup of coffee and rollor breakfast, a plain chop for luncheon and a little thin soup and a roast for dinner. "Conform or take the consequences!" MUST TALK WHILK EATINO. But, doctor," pleaded Cyril, "if I mayn't eat let me die. Is there really no help lor me?" "yes," replied the learned Aesculapius; "gpt married. Your meals are to serious. You don't talk enough while eating. Its too much a business with you. Get married, any I'll be easier with you." Cyril didn't let the grass grow under his feet He took unto himself a wife before the moon had filled her horns. The pre scription had worked admirably. The lady was very intelligent, and, under the guid ance of the physician, delayed the courses of the dinner, spent a quarter of an hour pre paring the salad, and often sent things hack to be cooked over. She beat Sheherasade all hollow. She had a story for every dish. Dinner lasted two hours, and Cyril was hungry again by the time coffee was reached. He began to fret under the big anecdotes and small portions. It was all wind pud ding to him. He longed for an old-time meal, at which he used to leave nothing but AVutt and French Candies. the bones of a two-pound porter house. Mar riage was a failure, a dismal fjilure. Vo to this time he had never known that he had a liver. Now he was made aware of the fact The long stories and endless tiles about nothing were having a bnd effect upon his liver. He lost flesh visibly, and his skin almost flapped in the wind as he rounded the corner of Wall and Broad. He was a changed man. Cyril now suffers lrom dyspepsia in its worst form, and you may see him any day getting what comfort he can out of a slice of graham bread aud a glass of hot milk. This is the "big joke" on Cyril, and it all goes to prove that marriage is in some cases a melancholy failure. However, the doctor chuckles and says. "Cyril, I saved you, for a living dyspeptic is better than a dead apopleptic." SECRET OF A CANDY BOX. You wouldn't imagine, would you, that a box of candy given to one's wife by her true and lawful husband would lead to a divorce suit? Yet such is the case. All the world thought Clarence to he most happily mar ried, and the women envied his plain-looking little helpmeet Clarence was so thoughtful, so considerate, so devoted. Fanny never complained of being le!t alone. "It's something a wife must expect," she exclaimed, "and then I always know where Clarence is, and he never stays out so late that lie doesn't remember me and bring me home a box of candy or some flowers." The box of candy came one night, or rather one morning. After Clarence had gone down town, and Fanny had taken up the morning paper, she opened it to enjoy her lavorite dish the gossip of tne day served uith French caudies. Bnt look! Her lips part and her eyes cloud. She has found something iu that box of sweets which ought not to be there. "What tbink you? A love letter? A tender message to some lair rival? No; only Clarence's visit ing card. But that was quite enough. The truth dawned upon the mind of that little woman with lightning rapidity. "There must have been two boxes of candy," she whispered hoarsely; "two boxes, and by mistake tbis box has been brought home to me. Ob, what a wretched woman I ami" It was at true as Holy "Writ "Woman's in in lut't i e utwynfli. VfiiA wu tuition: had gone to the bed rock of truth like a diamond drill. Six months later the papers were served in due form of law. Ob, what a bitter pill was in that box of sweets! A PBETTY SOKG3TRES3' VTOE. Could the handsome tenor singer who, in dainty satin, powdered wig and with such pink cheeks aud shapely mouth, makes love to and wins the heroine of the opera, everbe anything that is not sweet and kiss able? I'll warrant that the impressionable matinee girl, who bangs so delightedly upon his utterances, does not believe so. And yet the fair thing is not always delicious, as a little anecdote that I will narrate can prove. . There is a little love of a comic opera Iidy in town with whom the whole 'com munity U in complete sympathy. She is as dainty rs a Dresden china figure and sings with the iresh vigor of a bird. As she re ceives the devotion of the tenor in the opera all the club men in the audience heave en vious sighs, for she seems to enjoy the little kisses that the fortunate man bestows upon her cheek, and the clnb men tbink that it must be very jolly to caress a beauty that receives marks of adoration in such a re sponsive spirit Viewed from the front the kisses of tne tenor seem highly agreeable things of their kind, and the matinee girls fancy that they conld be as charming and radiant as the exquisite actress if that hand some young man were only exercising upon their cheeks instead. Behold the truth of the case. Only a few days ago the tenor re ceived a pretty little note from the fair artist It read as follows: A STARTLING MTTEB. "Dear Mr. Blank I sincerely trust that by mentioning a most delicate grievance that I have against you I shall not hurt your feelings. Being brought into close contact with you by the exigencies of onr parts in the opera I am. forced to suffer se verely from the odor of garlic, for which species of refreshment you appear to have a perpetual fondness, its aroma "never having been absent from you since your first ap pearance with me. I have refrained as long as possible from speaking to you of 'the matter, having hoped that you would wBim Advice for the Fat Man. branch off upon another artie'e of diet, but as there appears no promise of your do ing so, and as a continuation of garlic will ultimately exhaust me and ruin mv art, I am compelled to call your attention to the inconvenience that you create, begging you to henceforth gratify your appetite for garlic after and not before the evening per formances. I am the last person in the world to wish to deprive you of a favorite dish, but it has reached a point when the garlic is stronger than my physical forti tude, and therefore it will'be necessary for you to forezo the pleasure of consuming it at dinner." The tenor, being a good-natured man, as tonished the pretty singer the very next evening by coming to the theater, not only without his customary fragrance, but. re dolent of a choice scent of mignonette, he having copiously sprinkled his handerchief and his wig with that grateful extract MRS. LANGTRY'S RIVAL. "While Lily Langtry, tho lady of fife peer less neck, is in Paris rejoicing, so it is re ported, amid luxury lavished upon her by an English Lord, her whilom adorer, hand some Freddy Gebbard, is bathing in snow white'at Narragansett l'ier, and is naturally a center of attraction for nil the gay girls at that resort Gebhard is shaped lik'ea Greek god and can swim like a dolphin, and as he has shaken off for eood all the shackles that bound him to the English actress he is quite a desirable parti in the matrimonial mar ket He is reported engaged to a beauteous lady, known somewhat familiarly as "the "Widow O'Donnell." Mrs. O'Donnell is smaller, daintier, and prettier than Langtry, and her dash and animal vigor have made her a strong favorite with the liveliest youn bloods of the town, wnom she has entertained witn exceeding liberality and taste ever since her husband left her a fascinating relict Mrs. O'Donnell, strangely enough, is not lending her stimulating presence to Narra gansett this summer, but yon should see the photograph taken of her-a year or two ago that represents ner in tne sun aowu there. After looking at it one may easily see why she is such a star at a seashore place, and whv all the men in New York are at her feet A -nrONDERFUTi PICTURE. In the picture she is laughing, as though the playlnl wave that was surginggentlyup over her prod need a delicious sensation. Her arms are lifted with a gesture of ecsta sy over her head. Near her are a group of young men, including Freddy Gebbard, all with their eyes fastened upon the palpitat ing and shapely figure of the fair widow. A gull is circling near by, and it seems as though it had its head bent in such a way that the bewitching picture made by Jlrsl O'Donnell shonld not be lost Mrs. Langtry, photographed as Bosalind, rested through many seasons on Mr. Geb hard's dressing table, but now it is replaced by a far more bewildering portrait that of the lively widow in her bathing dress. There is really a. serious discussion nowa days among the young men of the Knicker bocker Club, not to speak ot the older fel lows of the TJnion, ol the question of Mrs. O'Donnell marrying Gebhard. It will be, they say, a perfect festival of joy for Geb hard, but a series ot funerals for them selves. All they will have leit to brighten the dismal earth will be that photograph of the widow in a bathing suit Clara Belle, IT MADE THE G0VEBH0E TTRTO. All lite Kentucklani In Gotham Appear to Want Ilelp. Hew York Star.l A few days ago a "Western Governor, who has been on a visit to the city, making his home at the New York Hotel, had a humor ous and yet pathetic experience. There is in the city a young man who has known the Governor ior years, and who is just now, although few of his friends know it, in very har.d luck. For two nights he had been'in the streets because he had no place to sleep, and his meals had consisted entirely of tree lunches. He read the an nouncement of the Governor's arrival in the newspapers, and determined to ask him for help. He went to the hotel and sent his name up to the Gov ernor. He had felt confident of getting assistance, but his hope was soon dissi pated, for the conversation had hardly begun when the Governor said: "What is the mutter with all the people from our State in New York? Are they lazy, or has the city a grudge against them?" "I don't know," was the answer. "Why dy you usk?" "Why, 1 have only been here two days," responded the Governor, "and already I um sorry I came. Within those two days no less than 30 Kentuckians have come to me with tales of. woe and asked for assist ance, and the worst of it is I once knew them all to be worthy men. It has made me sick, and although I intended to stay here two weeks lam poing home to-morrow. I can't stand it" It is needless to say the young man did not ask for the money he expected to obtain. BEAUTIES 0E FUBS. The Skins That Warm and Beautify the Women of the World. POINTS ABOUT THE SEALSKIft Animals That Held Up Their Coats aj the Shrine of Fashion. WHAT THE STEBNEE. SEX AFFECTS rconiixsrcorDxxcx or the dispatch-. 1 Londojt, August 29. English skin dressers and dyers are so renowned for their skill that practically London monopolizes the fur selling trade of the world. Dyed Jur is a poor investment It is better to bavo the real skin, from whatever animal it may come. It will last much longer and pre serve its smoothness and glossiness to the last Dyed iurs may be at once detected by the fact that they are the same color throughout, whereas real furs have often a, sprinkling of gray hairs in them and aro always mnch lighter in color at the roots than at the tips of the fur. These remarks do not apply to sealskin, which is always and should be dyed, as the undressed fur is far from handsome. As the diamond must be polished, so must the seal skin be dyed and dressed before it is cov eted by our modern belles. Seal has the widest reputation of any fur worn, but it is the least understood and the most difficult to select An impression prevails among . women that India or "camel's hair" shawls and sealskin jacket are both almost inde structible, and will .stand any amount of careless usage. Nothing could be further from the truth. Each at these costly wrap pings should be treated tenderly. Of the two the sealskin is by far the less durable. BUY SOLID SKINS. The very choice skins last, of course, bet ter than the inferior kinds. Some will stand for 10, 15 or even 20 years, and then have good portions lett, which may be made into smaller articles. Bnt however rich the tur the leather must be sound for service. "With seals, as with every other fur, it is best to select garments made from solid skins, as these always have a value, while articles made irom pieces, however skilfully joined, are generally worthless after a short time. Piece goods are made from small cuttings of inferior and damaged skins, cleverly put together, but as they contain so many different skins, cannot wear evenly, and are seldom worth reparing. Better to buy lower qualities in solid skins than rich looking furs made from pieces. Although motbs keep away from sealskin some experts say because it is the fur of a sea animal, others tnat the dye repels these destructive insects it is nevertheless un wise to keep a sealskin in a warm place, when not in use. A hot atmosphere renders all furs harsh and shabby, and entirely de stroys the smooth softness and glos3 they present when kept in a cool room. CASE 07 SEALSKIN. Be careful not to wet sealskin, but if it should become so accidentally, rub it softly down with a silk handkerchief, and dry at a distance lrom the fire. Be-dying of seal by a skillful furrier is generally successful and repays the outlay. Grease spots can be removed from seal with the old fashioned blotting paper and warm iron; and stains of sugar often disappear on the application of a weak solution of spirits of wine. Some luxurious houses in the American large cities have a closet built entirely of cedar wood, in which it is only necessary to hang furs to preserve them from their ubi qui tons enemy, the moth. These ladies who cannot boast of this convenience may make silken bags, and fill them with the follow ing mixture of arometic shrubs and flowers: Lavender, thyme, roses, cedar shavings, powered sassafras, casala, and lignes, with a lew drops ot ottar of roses thrown upon the whole. These sachets, interspersed among drawers and shelves, disseminate an odor delicious to human nostrils, but sends the moth off flying, upon his devastating; way. THE ;WEASELS COAT. Sable! 'Tis a name to conjure with, among lovers of fine furs. The small car nivorous weasel upon whose back the prince ly sable grows has undoubtedly no concep tion ol the money value attached to his warm and silky coat Still he probably finds it useful while he is allowed to retain it. There are three varieties of sables, the Rus sian, the American and the Kolinsky. A narrow peltrene, with ends, in the Russian sable, sells for SCO or 570 in London; tha American sable is worth hair that price, and the Kolinsky half that again. A sina qua non in a sable is the darkness of its color. Sable can be applied to more articles of dress than any other natural fur, and has been highly admired on the court robes of the Duchess of Edinburgh, who wears a su perb flounce of sable upon gowns of light colored satin, silk or velvet. A unique pe culiarity of sable among all the furs is that It may be stroked without ruffling the hairs, either np or down. Alaska sable is the euphemistic appela tion sometimes bestowed on sknnC. This creature has, next to sable, the finest dark natural skin known. Skunk is only made np in bands for trimming. A blue tone of the under fur is the most valuable, but the brownish tint is also liked and extensively bought CLEAHnrO WITH BRA2T. Sable and skunk, as well as bear skin and mink, may be cleaned with heated bran. Knb it on carefully the right wav of the fur, using a piece of perfectly dry flan nel. Theu shake the fur, and brush it in the same way with a long-haired and very soit brash; all with the utmost gentleness' and care. Bear is unbearably costly as a lur, the great demand and small supply keeping prices up. Cuba, with their fine dart silky hair, yield the best skins. Goat is dyed to imitate bear, and is a better look ing article than the common bear. Tha long thick hair of tbis beast gets very matted in the wearing. Opossum is effective whn worn on gar ments of artistic colors. That this opinion is widely shared by feminine buyers is proved by the fact that within the past six months in London 3,000,000 of Australian opossums have been sold. Chinchilla, the fur of the South American rodent, is com ing into fashion again. Beaver is more in demand than ever, but only a very small proportion of the goods so called are real beavers. Nutria the skins of the coypu, from South America are sold as beaver, aud are a good imitation of beaver,-but not so serviceable. Beaver takes a good brown dye and makes up well, bat looks a trifle' heavy. Shoulder capes, collarettes, peler ines and muffs are effective in beaver. BOB ROYALTY'S "WTEAK. Minever Is a word derived from two old" French words, menu, small, and vair, a kind of fur. Ermine and minever are inter changable terms when applied to the skin of the snowy white weasel whose tail is studded at its tip with rich black tufts. Ermine is royal wear; the Queen's state mantle is lined with it Peers and judges have a right to don ermine, the first by virtue of their noble rank, the second as an emblem ot purity of administration. Field ermine, in heraldry, refers to white shield with black spots, symbolically representing justice. Theoretically, ermine is never stained; practically, it becomes dirty, like all other white surfaces. The best cleansing agent :or ermine is powdered pipeclay. , Men were never known to wear so much fur as now, and the Dukeor Portland drives in a cloth overcoat lined with far which ex perts say is equaled in value only by the coat of the Czar of Russia. The household also wants its furs. Hearth rugs, perambulator rugs, fancy mats and carriage rags are seen iu every well fur nished English residence. Olive Logan. England has no beauty to compare with t&4 girls of Paterson, N. J. i Hda ssgyy-WRreTsaitfy iis.te3Piiwi lgBS589EggBEmaHa
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers