jHnm 5K1 Pfil p-va . 20 THE . PITTSBURG - DISPATCH, SUNDAY, AUGUST 24, 1890. mama i "S. fc FASHION LOOKS BACKWARD. Belle ofibe Period Are RnmmaalaK Among the Chesti ol Dresses Krpc asSIemenloes of Their Grandmother Time and mod eling Tfaelr New Gottos After tbe Old Styles. nmtuurroBTmc dispatck.i NOTABLE caprice of fashion at the present honr !i a reriral of al1 things old. "We affect the dress, manner and speech of that which we never call old fashioned. With an appreciative sense of their sweetness and fitness, we substitute "lover" for the dan dified "bean," a "courtship" is once again a courtship A and not designated Jj by any of the more 'f modern, awkward, and more vulgar terms; onr "dresses" I we frequently de- and a "petticoat" is named with as little hesitancy as it wonld have been in grand mother's day; and to call a "parasol a "sun shade" oo longer occasions a smile to go around, and who is not proud to carry the old-fashioned silk "hand-bag" and call it a "reticule," especially if it can be given the appearance of having lain for ages in the attic chest? Bat the sweetest affectation of all In this old school language is that of the words "father" and "mother" than which no ad dress for onr parents is more simple, more affectiouate or less flippant. By the use of these, and the many otber old-time words, I think we DUt into tbe language much ol tbe Strength and abiding force of the stern, staid days of the past. THE DRESS BEVTVAIi. The idea of reviving the old-fashioned in these regards originated with the introduc tion of tbe old-fashioned dress labrics, such as challies, shot silks, mohairs, etc, which are tbe "wool-delaines," "changeable silks" and "alpacas" of our grandmother's time, revived and rechristened. Fashion, ever on the alert for novelty, seized upon this oppor tunity tor the introduction ot something new in gowns, and at tbe same time carried out the idea of designers, since tbere seems to be a fitness in tbe old-lashioned make-up for these sprigged, changeable and Dolly Vardeu flowered materials not to be lound in more modern styles. Tbe latest party wrinkle, the outgrowth of tbis affectation of the old, is the empire, directory or colonial, either name being especially 'appropriate. During the hot months these parties bave been held upon lawns, but they will no doubt adjourn to the drawing room with the breakiug up of summer homes and the return of cool even ings. One or the prettiest sights my eyes have been treated to this season was a lawn party of this kind, where both ladies aud gentlemen looked so much like old-lashioned pictures it was easy to imagine tbem having just stepped out of their frames lor the occa sion. MAKES EEFOEM EASY. The ease with which the gentlemen seemed to wear their knee-breeches, ruffles, laces and gew-gaws led me to inquire 01 several how tbey would like to assist Mrs. Jenness .Miller in introducing tnat styie perma nently lor full dress, and leave servants in undisputed possession of the broadcloth . swallow-tail. The majority signified their willingness for such re orm, but tne thonght occurred they must be less painfully con scious of the over-inriulgeiice of tbeir mothers in having permitted them to stand upon their teet too early in Hie, than were observers, or they would be slower to favor the abbreviated trousers. The illustrations to-day furnish fair models of some of tbe "picture gowns" worn upon thii occasion. The first is ot pale yellow silk brocaded in tinsel, trimmed around neck and sleeves witb lace appar ently yellowed by time; the inside kerchief is ot blond, the same old-white in tone; hair worn pompadour and powdered alter the fashion that day. Another extremely quaint gown was of pale bine brocaded in deep red roses witb tneir leaves in natural tints. With tnis was worn an ouulde ""neckerchief," or wbat in this day is called a "'fichu." This was lace trimmed and ex tended in a point nearly to the waist line at tbe back, and was comically crossed on the breast and carried back to the side seams. SOME OF TBE O0W2JS. Tbe skirt ol tbis gown was elegantly plain in front, and had tbe mil de oil-train back. The sleeves of the dress and the majority of tbe others were almost full length, with a rucbicg at the elbow, and their length fin ished with frill of lace. Still another of these gowns which stood out irom among the many in pretty conspicuous ness was a canary-colored poplin worn over plain petticoat ol tbe same; tbe top skirt was trained and opened over the petti coat in front, edges finished with a pinfced- out ruffle. The waist was a plain pointed nasque wita tbe conventional kerchief " K Br F If fAWrn 7--W ' knotted at the low neck and carried around to the back; elbow sleeves with rnching were repeated on tbis gown, as was also the pompadonr arrangement of hair. These are only types of several dozens of gowns copied from pictures and which made up a most picturesque party. Others there were almost too elaborate and in consequence less droll, among which one captivating gown is distinctly remembered ana which wonld have enhanced the charms of a Josephine. This was of white silk brocaded in flower design, the flowers and tbeir leaves in n.iture's own colors, combined with plain white silk, tbe whole so still in its aristo cratic elegance as to stand without assistance. The petticoat ai.d bodice were of the brocade, the very long train was a combination of the plain and brocaded silk; neck cat out back ami tront in a point, finished by an inside ruffle ol rare old lace; a leather band out lined the vest, which was of brilliant passementerie representing the colors in the brocade, and feather band edged the open fronts of the top Skirt. ETEEYTHING ANTIQUE. Satin slippers were generally worn. Everything antique in fans and jewelry had been resurrected and played their part in that pleasantly delusive party. In tbe old State House at Philadelphia there is a collection of old clothes that the labels inform us were worn at colonial en tertainments, and which would be droll models for a modern colonial party. One of these gowns is a yellow brocade, princess style, short skirt open in front, no doubt to reveal the velvet or satin petticoat of a har monizing or pretty contrasting color, though the petticoat must be supplied from a modern imagination since it is not dis played with the collection. The sides or edges of these fronts are pinked after the manner of pinking in this day. The neck is sqnare cnt both back and front, but not in the ultra decollate; sleeves half length and bell-shaped. The trimming may have been fringe or lace, as only a few threads remain as evidence of trimming having been em ployed at all. Another was a brocaded material resembling a fine quality of raw silk fiends of old pink, white and yellow thrown in pretty disarray over a green sur face, the stvle similar to that of tbe yellow gown, having the princess effect in the back, while the front is like a modern basque, separated from the skirt as far back as the side seams; elbow sleeves, here also, and finished with two very full ruffles, piiikeu eages ana snirren on inn. BEFOElt IX FOOTWEAB. With these gowns are displayed satin slip pers that are proo positive of tbe increasing good sense of latter-day women in dressing the feet, since the heel on our party slippers are low and the width ample.compared with those of tbe old school; and while there is a very harmless-looking corset or "stay," as it was then called, displayed with the collec tion, judging from the circumference of the waists of the old gowns, tbe innocent steel less "stay" must have been capable of pro ducing the same degree of unclassical slen derness as the inventions of a Warner, Ball or Madam Foy. With the death of the bustle, described by Bellamy for (be enlightenment of his twen tieth century readers, as "an incredible ex tension of the skirt behind by means or an artificial contrivance that more thoroughly dehumanized the 'orm than any contrivance of the dressmaker;" and the bead covering described by tbe same as "j dizzy structure a foot tall," and the general attempt to cul tivate a Venn waist and the remarkable re form in footwear, flat heels and broad soles. now being worn by the most dressy. Does there not seem a good foundation for the as sertion that we are growing wiser? But why weaker? Mbq. MILLINERY FOR THE FALL. In Color the rtnbdnrd fcliades Ban Been Adopted and Tbev Will Barraanlze to Perfection Tin. Sbnpes Will Differ Lit tle From Those f Tjt Spring. twsrrrxx fob thi dispatch-. With one fell swoop we are transported from the golden yellows, peculiar pinks and bold blues to the shades of deeper tints and richer colorings. The past season we have reveled in the colors found nearest the outer edge of flowers, which are invariably lighter, now we are plunged into the warmer shad ings whieh are more appropriate for fall and winter. Black, which has attained i;uch prominence for a few seasons past, will be,, used for" trimming only and the bright and elaborate colors will be toned down and subdued with the lustrous black for which this season's nuances adoptees par la Byndl cale of Paris are so admirably adapted. The rare shades of the dahlia, a South American flower introduced into Europe in 1789, bave been so perfectly copied as to flat ter nature, and these are pn5duoed from the lightest to the deepest shades. Perse is a very delicate shade of the dahlia, while tudee, anemone, verssiene, ehardon and dahlia are darker. These combine and blend beautifully with one another, but there should be a difference of about four shades when they are placed in juxtaposi tion. Mais, a light yellow; citron, a lemon yellow, and ble-d'or, a golden wheat, as its name indicates, are the shades that ail artists say are the most flattering to the com plexion. The blues are well thought of, and they are oiel, azure, bourrache, a deep sky blue, bluet, a oouple of shades darker than bourrache and used in combination with it and entendard, a dark ultra marine blue. The greenish blues, very bright, are turquoise ot a light, watery nature and email two shades darker and fairly dazzling in brilliancy. There are three grays, argent, a silver shade; nickel, darker, with a faint suspicion of a pink tint, and platlne, two shades darker than nickel. The latter is most prominent in as sortments.! Browns are to be particularly good, and they are much favored by the Pope, as he has said that he considered them particularly well adapted for middle aged ladies. He at one time expressed him self in regard to colors by saying that he liked white and navy blue for young ladles and black, brown and gray for middle-aged and elderly ladies. The brown shades are furet, a very light ferret brown; bison, a shade deeper; tabac, a tobacco brown; mor dore. a dark tobacco: lontre. a murkv seal brown, and maroquia and marron, a very light fawn and a deep chestnut Pivolne is a reddish lava shade, and said to be the best of the novelty reds. Glaceiel is a lighter shade, and one still little lighter is called tulipe. Pensee and Iris, two royal purples, are marked for distinction this fall. In shapes we will be governed largely by this spring's shapes which will give us extremely large bats and little toqnes. The broad- brimmed flats will be made into beautiful picture hats and will be bent into all fantastic shapes. Importers of novelties hare brought out richly-made edgings, braids and galloons, in "some patterns of which combinations with gold are shown. Chenille is again appearing in ornamental trimmings, or is made iuto bonnet shapes, either in plain or stylish combination with other materials. Large ostrich tips and plumes will be extensively worn, likewise birds and very short tips. The made birds are shown in all colors and shapes, some thing quite impossible to attain in the natnral birds, and these in colors will nestle in small buenches of tips. ' An extremely stylish hat is an artistic combination of black and furet brown. A square is cut from the center 01 the brim and around this is clustered a number of small black birds with a very stylish bow at the back. A very small toque of the rich combination of yellow and brown is much admired lor its striking simplicity. The frame is plainly covered with the two ma terials, and a wide strip of the brown velvet is halt faced witb the yellow velvet and the frame being cut in the front, the velvet is drawn through and tied in a simple knot, and each end artistically draped b.ick on each side and held in place with two gold pins and a light brown wing. Ostrich feather bands promise to be very popnlar, and placing them around the brim ol a hat will produce a warm, comfortable appear ance, which is so much admired on a cold blustery day, and this will assure them of a hearty reception, particnlarly later in the season. A low tnrhan with a soft rolling brim has an ostrich band in robin's egg blue around the brim and finished with three very tiny ostrich tips in the same color. Three blackbirds and a black velvet ribbon bow are perched on the extreme edge of the crown in front are held in place with a jet dagger. Oka Seaney. Parisian Han Milliner. WOES OP TEE BEBDE. First Made Jealon and Then Crashed by nn Explanation. jPMltdelpbla Times. "Maria," said the young and handsome Leiber to his pretty wife, "how is Millie Bluebas coming on?" The lady in question was suspected by bis better half to be an old flame of Jjer hus band's. She had dined with them the even ing before. "I haven't seen her Alfred, so I can't say," with a touch of pique in the tone. The next evening aud tbe next Mr. Leiber repeated hisinqulry. Tbis persistence finally roused his wife s jealousy. "Alired Leiber," she retorted, "I want to' Know why you are so anxious to bear about Millie Bluebas. Here we're only a month married and yet you." Further utterance was stopped by a burst of tears. "Why, my darling," said Alfred, honestly surprised, "I was only anxious for your dear sake. I noticed that she ate two pieces ot your cake at our little dinner and, knowing the fact, I naturally wanted to know the consequences." t BABY IFKEE'S FAME. How tbe Jokes of American Newspapers Strike the Eogllah Editor. Fall Mill Budget. The American papers are making .great fuujustnowof the-President's affection for his grandson, and one can hardly take up any Democratic journal without seeing some witticism at ".Baby McKee's" ex pense. Thus in one paper we find the- following headlines: "Baby McKee will swim; The Little One and the Presidentto gOtsurf-bathing;" while in another we read that "Not even Baby McKee believes now is General Harrison's second term." ' WHAT WOMEN WANT. The Variety of Demands Hade on Shirley Dare by the Fair Sex. ALL INTERESTED IK COSMETICS Directions for Making White Cheeks Bed and Bed Aoses White. ADYICB.TO BTENING ENTERTAINERS " rwBXTTZirron tub dispatch. 'Ton can't give the women too much about cosmetics," writes a well-to-do woman from a Pacific summer resort, and various bints to the same effect come from different quarters of the country and the continent. The shortest way to get at what women really want to know 1s by 'the requests in most of the 499 letters which haunt me. This letter will be given np mainly to the chat with correspondents long promised. "Constant Reader" thirteenth of the name wants the recipe for bringing blood to the cheeks and lips in place ot using paint. Ten drops oil of mustard in an ounce of alcohol is tbe formula. Sponge the cheeks and lips with a few drops of this half an hour before you present yo urself. It. will soon smart and redden the skin, but must not be allowed to burn more than five minutes. Wash off aud apply a touch of eold cream or tbe new toilet cerate, which is so fragrant, so balmy to the skin, which does not grease the skin or produce down on the face. Eu passant, if there is no good blood in the system, if you are autemic or bilious, you can't get up a good color even by blistering your cheeks. HUNT FOB GOOD AIR. . If a boat could steam down the Narrows three or four times a day with a load of la dies in easy dress, who should exercise from tbe time of starting till they came back, it would be tbe best school of color for feminine faces. If you can't get oceau or lake air, take the highest and purest you can reach; live in it, work in it as far as possible, and let these pretenses ot mustard and ginger and carmine go by. No. 2 suffers with flushed face, tendency of blood to the head, the least exertion makes ber warm and she perspires too freely. She wants to know whether tbere is medicine she can get which would cool the blood? This looks like indigestion. French doctors say wilhoutcircumspection that women, especial ly over 40 years of age, owe their red noses and flushed faces to fatty acids generated In the stomachs where digestion does not take place. ''This gastro-colic dilatation is the origin of many tkin disorders, besides many mental states of simple or emotional depres sion," say Profs. Trastour and Bouchard. CUBE FOB BED HOSES. Take hot Carlsbad water or Sprudel salts or a good seidlitz powder in hot water the first thing in the morning. "Eat small but irequent meals, let starchy and leguminous foods alone on account oi tbeir bulk and fatty urtioles, ou account of the irritating character of the products ot their fermenta tion," says Dr. Thompson, of New York in his admirable paper on diseases of the stomach. No. 3 writes: "I have made inquiries at several bakeries for bread from unbolted flour. One said 'steamed bread,' another 'aerated bread.' So I am puzzled to know which is the bread, if either." This kind of appeal is enough to raise holy bands in wrath and doubting wrath" that our women are taught everything that pertains to culture, artistic, social, chari table and religious, save and except what belongs to tbeir very blood and lii'e. It does not say much for the intelligence of, lady or baker that such a question about tfie bread we eat three times a day should be asked and that It should receive such answer of folly. Yet the letter quoted is well written, in good handwriting. ADVICE A3 TO BBEAD. Let ns hope the hygienic text books of the future will teach the difference between bolted and unbolted flour. Unbolted flour, it is remarked in concession to ladylike ig norance, is flour containing the whole of tbe wheat, including the outer coat, which is tbe bran, and phosphates, the very parts needed by sedentary persons, but which are carefully sifted out of tbe white flour. Don't go to the baker for bread to keep you in health. Tbe bakery bread is'almost without exception ovenermented with yeast to the point oi sourness, made of inferior flour, ironi which the best nutrient parts have been removed by bolting, and, lastly, is seldom baked enough for human food. This is why the Americans are a nation of i dyspeptics, always in a hurry, thin, and ex- citaDie. .Enough has been said about tbe hurry produciug dyspepsia, when everv doctor knows that the hurry, the desire to be continually on tbe move, is one of the effects of nervous dyspepsia, created by a lack of phosphates and their nerve nutri tion. SOCIAL PROGRAMMES. "Two Light Seekers" send an interesting letter, the answer to which may serve for other readers and seasons. No. 1 asks: "What kind of entertainment would be most suitable for an evening in tbe sum mer? Would it be permissible to have a musical and .literary programme, followed by refreshments, such as ices, and then conversation? Or would that be too ardu ous work for tbe summer evenings?" Nothing marks the decline of genuine so ciety and social accomplishment than that such a phrase as "a musical and literary programme" should ever gain acceptance in connection with entertainments in pri vate houses. It sounds like a college fra ternity, like a lodge o Good Templars, like one or those nondescript assemblies over which Mme. Adam and other French women not to the manner born preside, gavel in hand, as if It were a political meeting, where good order mnst be knocked into people's brains with a mallet. The "musical and literary programme" should have no place in good houses unless at a private concert. A PLEASANT PROGRAMME. The right sort of people brought together will usually know how to entertain them selves in the way they like best If it is cool enough .'or half a dozen dunces, verv well, aud there may he card tables with clean packs of cards for those lively gam-s which allow plenty of talking no scientific, whist or seibsh "Boston;" above all, no plaviug for inoney or prizes. The idea of giving prizes in private company for the winner at progressive euchre, or the one who pins the donkey's tail on is "low down," or mean manuered, as you please. It used to be a reproach in early society that certain unwelcome visitors "only went for what they could get to eat," and the plan of offering aud taking prizes in private com. pany, says on the one hand the hostess feels she has nothing personal to attract her guests, and the taking is not less vulgar than the old ashioaed carrying away cake and sweets in one's pocket handkerchief. Better taste will have a quantity of photo graphs of noted people and places, if possi blefrom a private camera. A parlor stere opticon might be shown half an hour, springing the affair on the company without previous warning, as an interlude. Talking and games, witb ices and sherbet, are enough lor any small party in warm weather. CONCERTINO COSMETICS. T. S. V. wants "to know all about the cos metic rosmarine." It is an old formula, not a cosmetic, but a very grateful, fragrant and very strengthening lotion, greatly valued for, paraljtlc ailments, strains and weaknesses which injure women's looks. It was one ot the best legacies from the old practice, excellent for "keeping up tbe strength of persons obliged to exert them selves or to bring back strength alter long illness. It was one of the safest of lotions and gave firmness to the muscles of the face, overcoming the tendency to droop, which cornea on with years sometimes early in life. It is not .sold by any druggist and I only know it from coming, across av bottle belonging to some old-fashioned people. The formula is a secret To No. 2 1 would say that Ada Behan's renewed youth nlaess is owing to skillful treatment, every year becoming more hygienic and less empirieal, diet and Ger man waters to tone down flesh and give transparence to the complexion. By the way, two or three well known drugs will do this as well as arsenic, giving a more trans, lucent paleness, but they are too dangerous in inexperienced hands to be given to the public. OBEASE ON THE FACE. Facial masage,with the new toilet cerate, which outdoes any cold cream, lanoline or glycerine preparation, will take lines out of the face and leave it smooth. It is really a boon to bave an application for the face which does not leave it glistening with grease. Toilet grease of whatever kind is good to grow hair on the face. The fine mustaches the South American show alter SO are more or less dne to the cocoa butter with which they smear their faces nightly, and I have yet to find one woman who tells me how well glycerine agrees with her skin who does not show cheeks thick witb down. The cerates are waxy preparations, not greasy, and the toilet cerates waxiest of all, firming and soltening the skin at the same time. Then the electric batbs and sulphur baths Impart freshness and vitality, till they are becoming a necessity lor professional and so ciety women, who are as completely profes fecsional as either newspaper women or actresses. I can't, of course, do more than outline the usual course taken by profes sionals who go abroad for treatment and come back with the freshness of girls. If hard working women can do tbis any woman of leisure ought to be able to do so. FRECKLES AND HAIR LOTIONS. "Flirting Fanny" demands "a sure cure for freckles." The last treatment is touch ing each spot with a splinter dipped in pure carbolic acid, which burns out the skin down to the pigment layer. But I should not advise any one but a skilled physician to attempt this, as it is a risky proceeding, and will make the face unpresentable for days. Better take charcoal and taraxacum or Yicby water, and expose your tace to the sun all you possibly can to overcome the aiitsmia which brings on freckles. Twenty Correspondents For come dones or black heads use a lotion of ether, one fluid ounce; carbonate of ammonia, 20 grains, and two fluid ounces of water. Have a druggist mix it, and apply twice daily with a bit of rough crash. Take also a glass of Iresh grape juice every morning belore breakfast, which will have the effect of Saratoga water, and is better than any min eral water for young complexions. Shible? Dare. BAILIE HOLLETS LIFE WOBK A Seir-SncrlflcliiB Wom-in Wno Hue Dane Itlneb tn Educate Colored Girls. New Tork World.: Miss Sallie Holley, who founded the Lottsbnrg schools for the colored girls of Virginia, is not a Virginian, but a native of New York, and a talented and kindly woman, who has devoted herself heart and soul to tbe cause of her sex's moral and material advancement Her whole life has been a series of self-sacrifices, and thongh 60 years of age she has all tbe enthusiasm and earnestness of youth and a task that ter men would attempt. In her management of the Lottsbnrg schools she has nothing but the raw ma teria). It is enough for her to see the throng oi ignorant ana napless young girls, the knowledge of their condition Inspiring her with the zeal and energy necessary to pro cure funds for carrying on the work. She writes letters by the gross to private fami lies, public people and men and women who are succeeding in li e. Her last appeal is made to the club women of the Union. and with their aid she hopes to realize the dream of her life an industrial school where tbe colored girl and woman can learn to read and write, and at the same time be come proficient in some branch of Industry, by means of which she can earn an honest livelihood. This noble-hearted woman is a descend ant of the royal astronomer, Eilmnnd Halley, and the daughter of Myron Halley, who was a native or Silisbury. Conn., but died a citizen of Bochester,,N. Y. Mr. Holley was among tbe projectors of the Erie canal, and served as Canal Commissioner pntil the noble enterprise reached a success lul isaue The name Halley was changed to Hnllev after the emigration of his ancestors from England, who settled first at Strat ford and then at Stam ord, Conn. Miss Holley's father was a graduate of Williams College in 1799, her uncle Horace of Yale in 1803, and her uncle Orville of Harvard at a later period. Thus it is seen that an interest in education belongs to her family. Miss Sallie Holley herself has long been known as a lecturer on re'orms (especially in anti-sin very days), and has been teaching in Charlnttesbnrg Va., ever since the war. Her faithful labors among the freedmen are bnt n fitting conclusion to her Aboli tionist efforts in earlier years. Miss Holley is an honorary member ot Sorosis. She has for years been assisted in her school by Miss Caroline Putnam. ' PHCEBE CAST'S NECKLACE. A Collection of Trinket. Encb Ono of Which Represented a Friend. Mew Xork rress.3- The late Phcobe Cary, the poetess, who, with her sister Alice, may be said to have instituted the first literary salon in New York, had a quaint conceit of forming a necklace of objects of all colors and siies, some valuable and some not, which should be contribnted by her friends. She was given ail sorts of stones and trinkets, some of them having a double meaning, and cele brating some peculiarity, or indicating the personality of the ilonorl For instance Mr. Barnnm's girt to her was the fin of a fish in the shape of a jewel, which he facetiously told Miss Cary stood for his name Phineas. Among the otber con tributors to this wonderful necklace besides Mr. Barnum were Horace Greeley, Oliver Johnson, Miss Mary L. Booth, Jnniut H. Browne, Albert D. Bichardson, Frank B. Carpenter, Mrs. Mary Clemmer Ames, Bob ert Dale Owen, James C. Derby, Mrs. M. Louise Thomas, John Bussell Young, Alvin J. Johnson, Whitelaw Beid and Eobert Bonner. Miss Cary did not hesitate to levy con tributions upon all her intimate associates, and a simple little memento waa accepted as graciously as the most elaborate ornament, her declared object being to own something which represented to her the personality of these friends. She never failed to wear the necklace on each of her Sunday evening re ceptions. Piirebe Cary'a necklace is not as cele brated a one which belonged to a certain royal ladv a Century ago, but if the de scription of each of those little souvenirs carelessly strung on its thread of silk could be giwn, with a history of their celebrated donors, and their reunions at the homes of the two brilliant sister poetesses, it might prove as interesting if not as thrilling as that about Queen Marie Antoinette's. THE DIVINE SABA'S TB.VKK3. Detailed Description of the Acsrecatlon Tlmt Paralyzed a Railroad. Pall Mall Bad jet. lady readers may be interested in know ing something of the trunks of Sara Bern hardt, which the other day, to the number of 48, interfered with the traffic at Angers sta tion and par iljzed nearly the whole of tbe railway staff there. Madame admits that she had 48 trunks with her, exclusive of packages great and small. Twenty of her trunks are made of wood, about four feet high, each divided into three compartments ami filled with her most valuable dresses. Fourteen were made of wicker-work, also in three compartments, some of the heavier being subdivided into two, three or lour spaces, filled with petticoats, linen, boots and robes of small value. Three special trunks are set apart for hats, arranged on pegs in such a way as to prevent-them from being shaken or crushed. The tragedienne's "kit" in all weighed; between two and three tons. CLARA BELLE'S CHAT. Unfortunate Mishap, in Establishing a Bride's Standing. SOUP PLATES AND KK17ES TO GO. The Bustle Has Been Called Back Again from Retirement. 6T0EI OP UBS. P1EBEP0NT MOBQAS f coanxsroasziroi ot rax dispatch.: New Yobk, August 23. HE silly boys and girls of the 'McAl lister set, yon know, believe that it is fatal to yonr social standing, nowaday, to have it leak ont that yon are the fonnder of yonr own Idleness, or that your father and grandfather were industrious nobod ies. Hence it be comes necessary to get possession of some "muniments of title," as the law yera call them old silver, old pict . nres, old furniture, old portraits, old gowns, old hats. At a fashionable wedding in upper Had is on avenue, among tbe articles displayed to the admiring gaze of the friends of the family were several pretty baby dresses, tiny caps, an embroidered cloak and a pair of little baby shoes in bronze leather. They were presents to the bride from her dear mamma. Everybody was charmed. It was such a deligbtiul bit of sentiment! Even grumpy old maids took up these dainty little pieces of clothing, tnrned them over and over and pronounced them charming. Such a sweet thought on the part of Maude's mother. Bnt siasl Among the gnests tbere hap pened to be a disagreeable old customer In the shoe trade. PBIDE TAKES A TUMBLE. Picking np one of the tiny shoes, he turned down the upper and pointed ont to one of the sympathetic maidens the stamp of a well-known Sixth avenue shoe dealer, and inlormed her that "that dealer had only been in business for about ten years." Ye gods and little fishes I J had almost said little shoesl Maude's indulgent mother had simply purchased a pair of tiny shop worn shoes as a "muniment to title" to re spectability. For those who contemplate dinnerparties next winter, I wonld say that the davs of me targe, nut, nanng soup plate are num- bered. it never was a thing ot beauty, and if the cost 01 elegant dinner dresses rninpil by reason of unsteady hands in serving or removing these huge saucers could be ar rived at, no donbt it would be something feariul. Herealter sonps will be either thin and watery (bouillons), in which case iney win oe served in cups and drunk without spoons, or else they will be thick soups, and in that case thev will be served inx elegant bowls, not of th'e old-fashioned shape, but square, and with bell-bowled spoons to lilt the thick semi-fluid to the mouth. the knife must go, too. The old-fashioned spoon, when first in vented, was intended to be introduced into the mouth, small end first, and this required such a gymnastic feat that the fastidious diner relnsed to go through the operation, and sipped the fluid irom the side; hence the taper end has lost its usefulness. To put aspoon small end first into your mouth is quite as bad as to swallow the end of yonr knife. And speaking ot the knile it is fast falling under a ban, too, and no doubt the day is not far distant when to cut anything at table will be deemed extremely bad form. Even now, one may eat a course dinner and not tonch his hand to a knife. The fork ful fills all-reqnirements. Possibly they will soon put a knile edge on one side of it What is to be said of certain modern methods ot winning girl's heart now be ing pursued by tbe affluent youth of New York. A fellow who plays polo in New port managed to get up to town on the same day that his very young angel, who rides cleverly to bounds, came up shopping, and by fchrewd diplomacy he succeeded in get ting Ber all alone at luncheon. It was a jolly meal, sedate and dignified to the on looker, but thrilling and immeasurably sweet to the participants. a wondebfcl sesseet. By the time the dessert was reacned the youth had tbe girl's consent to be his wife. "If you say yes." said tbe vonth. "I will have served for yon a certain dish for dessert Couldn't Fool Bim on Shoes. that I know you will lite above anything you ever had before. If you say no, then, you shan't have tbe dish." "I say yes, yes, yes," responded the girl, while they both sighed. The promised dish was brought It looked very delicate and sugary, something on the order of a meringue, all puffy and white. "You will serve it yoniself, dear," said the young man, "and please cut it in a very careful way. The interior is extremely precious, and most be handled with great care." The girl deftly slipped a knife into the sugar. "Why, what's that," she cried, as the whole arrangement collapsed, and some thing like a satin box lay revealed. "That is your part or the dish," replied the yonng man. "Open it and see if it is made to your taste." The girl, rosy with anticipation, opened the box, and a beautiful solitaire diamond ring flashed its white light Into her spark ling eyes. Aud she loved her lover very dearly "all that afternoon. THE DESIEE OF HEB BEAST. Mrs. Pierepont Morgan is an upper-ten born and bred. Never having known toil bersel , and never having had a wish un gratified thatmoner could indulge, she eas ily might net show a sympathetic spirit to ward those whose lot is fixed attheautipodes of ease and deasnre. Yet, not long since, an intelligent yonng girl was temporarily In her employ, who was interested and some what acquainted, through ber readings, witb the art of the lapidary. Mrs. Morgan noticed her shy scrutiny ot the jewels she was required to handle in the performance of her duties, and kindly gave ber permis sion to look at them more closely. There upon the girl expressed her keen adiuira tioUiof gems, not as helps to personal adorn ment, but as examples of an art she would like to study. Mrs. Morgan sent to tbe bank where her more costly jewels were in . sa e-keeping. When the casket waa brought she' spent a Ions; time with the girl whose eagerne wai , WH 1 'Pf'Jv -n wBlaMi lMim- w$mrtr A '$? Is? K7 o far above vanity, or envy, or eovetouiness and whose delight was so unequivocal as to be in themselves a Study. Her enthusiasm and intelligence were to great that Mrs. Morgan easily drew lrom ber a sby acknowledg ment that tbe practice of tbe lapidarv's art was the dearest wish of her heart,' When tbe girl left Mrs.Morgan's service she enter ed upon a course of study and training pointing toward a fulfillment of her most ardent wishes. can't kill the bustle. Now that the bustle is likely to make its appearance again, after a protracted retire ment, it may not be ont of place to give a glance at the pedigree of this strange ar ticle of dress. It is literally as old as the hills, and,' although caricaturists here ridi culed it, satirists lampooned it, theologians thundered at it, and lawmakers suppressed it by statutory enactment, yet it still lives, and will live so long as women exist on the face of this planet. In the days of Pericles and Aspasia the Athenian women built out their hips by some sort of bustle, and this fashion must have bqen kept alive during the Dsrk Ages, for with the renaissance came the verfugado from Spain a sort of pad which served to pnfl out the skirt. " In a very short time this primitive bnstle was snpplanted by the farthingale, or hooped petticoat The gallant King Harry of Nevarre issued an edict against farthin- A Sparkling Beauty for Dessert. gale, although he owed bis life to one, for during tbe massacre of St. Bartholomew, when the assassins entered the palace he hid nnder his wife's hooped petticoat. In 1718 it was bigger than ever, and took the name of "panier," or basket. This was the grand mother of our wooden crinoline. While it is true that the bnstle is coming hack again, next season it will be a modest, retiring little bustle, and it will not offend the most fas tidious. Claba Belle. HOW GOOBLOE KILLED SWOPE. The Hotorions Jack Ctalnn Faraltbed tbe Rnlfo ths Colonel Wield-d. Lonls N. Megars;ee, in Philadelphia Inquirer. The news' which comes from Kentucky about Jack Chinn carving another man re vives recollections of one of the most pictur esque characters that ever flitted across the metropolitan horizon. The telegraphed ac counts describe Chinn as using a bowie knife upon bis opponent and endeavoring simply to leave a scar on his face. Chinn never placed steel into a man without the intention of killing him, because with him tbe use of cold metal is not intended as a joke, and is only resorted to when he thinks that a life wager has been made. Nor does he use a bowie knife, but always a weapon made from ideas ot his own, and which some day will bear his name. . Chinn is a man larger and, I think, more powerful than John L. Sullivan. He has tbe shoulders of an ox. I was with him one Sunday morning last winter after the news had been received of tbe doubly fatal en counter between Goodloe and Swope in Lex ington, Ky. He was handed a telegram, which contained simply these words: "He used your kni e." 1 looted at Chinn mauiringlv. He said: "You wonder what that means. I will tell you. More than one year ago my friend, Colonel Goodloe. and Swope had a wordy encounter. I told Goodloe at that time that the otber man wonld attempt to till him and that he should be prepared. He said he would provide himself with a pistol. I laughed at him. You should know that Goodloe has been palsied for a number of years and that his hands are continually trembling. I said to bim, 'What can vou do with a pistol? There can be no certainty about your aim. You must carry a knife.'" "He rather shivered at tbe suggestion, and said he did not know how to use one. Then I taught bim. I had two knives made. Their handles were of horn, with grooves cut in tbem to fit the hand. The blade was moved by a spring, which, when touched, not only sprung the weapon into place, bnt held it tbere. He said that with such a weapon he would have no show against a man armed with a revolver. "I handed bim an empty revolver and told him to trv to place it against my breast and pull the trigger. As be moved his right arm forward with the pistol I grasped the enff of his coat with the fingers of my left hand, and with the powerful grip which I thus obtained twisted backward the hand holding the weapon in snch a way that he was powerless. Then with my right band I sprang my knife from my breeches pocket and made a score or more of mock stabs iuto his de enseless breast. Again and again I showed him how to accomplish that feat, and that is how he killed Swope, and that is the meaning of 'the words in this telegram, 'He used your knife.'" , THE MOSQUITO SLAYEB. How the Dragon Fir Work. HI. Under Lip to tfin Deitrnctlonoftbe Pent. KewYort Sun. All students agree that the mosquito is the most utterly! abandoned insect that ever kicked a leg or flapped a wing. It is in capable of good. The question then is: "How can it be exterminated?" The an swers are legion, and range from coal oil to Jamaica ginger, and from devil.'s darning needlesto suufish. One method of extermi nation is tbe culture of dragon flies or dev il's darning needles. Tbe dragon fly is a gamey insect, witb a voracious appetite for mosquitoes, a stomach for 30 or 40 of tbem at a meal, and all the necessary natural ap paratus for catching them. On turning over one of these insects it will be found that the under lip is greatly enlarged and is folded over the mouth parts so as to earn the name of "mask." It seems that all the muscular energy and powers of quiclc perception were attached to this organ, nothing can exceed tbe rapidity with which the mask is shot forward and its helpless prey is seized. Then this arm-like lip is nsed as a fork to hold tbe food, which it slowly feeds into the capacious jaws. There are hundreds ot careful witnesses of the efficiency of the dragon flv in gobbling up mosquitoes. In a letterto Dr. Lamborn, Captain C. N. B. Macauley. V. S. A., described his observation of the mosquito and the dragon fly near Port Abraham Lincoln, Dakota. 'Whenever dragon flies appeared In his mosquito-infested neigh borhood, be said, tbe moquitoes vanished as if by magic. They flew among the mosauitoes ia a ilgzig line, "dabbing" constantly right and left, and "each one of these dabs meant a mosquito." A. C. Weeks, of the Brooklyn Entomo logical Society, thinks that "an attempt to destroy flies aud mosquitoes by the artificial propagation of dragon flies or any other in sect, would be unprofitable, unadvisable and impracticable." He says that the dragon fly breeds too slowly, and is too much oi a fine weather bird. Tbo, Mania Sprenda. Boston Herald. Visitor There seems to have been a large increase of violent patients lately. Snperintendent of asylum Yes, all of them are victims of "Little Annie Booney." Their cases are hopeless. One Kind of Ball Crank. Boston Herald. It is only the man who doesn't know how to play ball, and who couldn't be hired to go and see a game, who predicts that in a few years the gaae.will die out A -as OUR PLUCKY GIRLS. Novel Ways in Which They Am Winning Their Own Livings. - A BELLE WHO BOHS A BRICKYARD. One of the East End Ladies h a Jewel at House Furnishing. PA1E CASDI MAKEES GETTJJSa B1CH rrmpAEiD toe thx dispatchj Tbere are more women in Pittsburg than one wonld imagine who have bravely taken up the gage of battle cast into the arena of their lives and are making splendid flgbta for success. At least, there are enough of them to warrant the assertion that the aver age Pittsburg girl is bound to make her way in the world. And these women are not all working with the needle or at stenography. Many have found they cannot endure the confinement of office life aud ore engaged in odd callings, which to them are more con genial and often more remunerative- j. At the age of 20 a fair Pittsburger bu taken hold of a brickyard which was about to pass out of the family at the death or her father. She knew nothing of the manu facture of brick, but she had business ability of the highest order. Experienced men were engaged by her to loot after the man ufacture of brick, while she attended to the finances and exercised a general supervision over the work. She is a brunette of verr prepossessing appearance, and has a head which many a business man might envy. Undaunted by the dismal prediction of v i jire made by her frieads. he has gone boldly onward, and her success is now assured. HEB HEAET FAILED HEB. -Another young woman sometime ago felt that her spare hours could be utilized to the benefit of her family. Many were the plans formed for the capture of the fugacious dol lar, but all were rejected. Finally a visit to a wealthy relative brought forth the suc cessful idea. She had listened to many a tale of woe resulting from the carelessness with which Bridget handled priceless bric-a-brac Articles of virtu which, on account of associations, could not be replaced, were very apt to be broken when tbe maid of all work invaded the parlor with her destruc tive dust brush. Why should not these people be willing to pavfor the services of a person who understood the value as well aa the handling of precious articles of a fragile nature? So this young creature prepared a dainty cap, which set most bewitchingly on her brown curls and gathered around her the various paraphernalia to be used in the cleansing ol rare old china, etc Then, already to gather in the dollars, she sat down to thint. AlasI as the thought sprung Into her mind ot what she would do should she in spite of all her care break some precious keepsake entrusted to her she faltered and the vision of crisp bills and Bland dollars vanished, aud her plans were aoandoned lor some other young lady to carry out. SHE FtJBJflSHES HOUSES. More successful has been the business ca reer of a lady in the East End. She pos sesses exquisite taste, and this she haa turned to good account To people of wealth unblessed with an eye for effect she is a jewel. For a consideration she under takes to furnish a hous in the most com plete manner, even to filling the cellar with fuel and lighting the fire in the range Of course the tuture occupant of the house thus furnished supplies he wherewithal for the purchases. For the young conple just starting into the grave business of "keeping house" she is a godsend. A hundred cares ana neauacnes are spared the bride that is to be. Two Pittsburg gentlewomen of shattered fortunes find, in what was in happier and more prosperous days an amusement, tha means of maintenance. Tbey have for some time been engaged in the sweet pur suit of manufacturing French candies. These sweetmeats are sold among friends and ot such excellence are thev that these two women dispone of some 60 pounds daily. What their profits are you can judge from the following: At a chnrch sociable recently heldinonsofPittiburg'a more pretentions suburbs, some ladie made 75 pounds of tbis candy, which sold at the reasonable price of SO cents per pound. The total cost of all the ingredients was S10. JIOKET IK 8TATI0JTEBT. A modest little widow of tbis city has solved the question of how to obtain a good living. At the death of her husband she was left in straitened circumstances. She had a number of friends in business life here, and to them she went mH ..v supply them with stationery. When she obtained an order she had it filled at whole sale houses and charged her customer tbe regular retail price. She has now quite a large and profitable clientele and is In com fortable circumstances. For some time past one of the large down town grocery houses has made a specialty of a certain kind or cake. This was the work of a young New Yorker. Twice a week she sent to this firm large packages of the tooth some dainty, and the profits arising there from are handsome. The only drawback to the marketing oi articles or lood made by fair hands is the price. The maker alls to take into account the fact that the shop keeper must have his profit, and thus bv the time the article reaches tbe consumer the price is a little too high to offer a tpoAv sale. SCHEME OF X GOOD COOK. A celery sauce which -sells at 60 cents a bottle, anda very small bottle at that, af fords a nice amount of pin money to the maker, who has been known from her youth, np as one of the best of cooks an accom plishment aomewhat rare nowadays. The market for fancv work, knitting, etc, is not so enticing nor so profitable as it might be. Plain and fancy sewing are poorly paid for, besides being most tire same. If a woman has some specialty is which she excels, she can readily dispose) of it. To those of the gentler sex who must needs wrestle with tbe question of support numerous ways are opeu. Tne mut have pluck and untiring energy; and thonzh tbey may sometimes meet with cruel rebuffs, yet with perseverance and a firm belief in the God of the widow and orphan, they will surely be rewarded with success. Josephine. YALE'S GEOLOGIST. TTioagU More Than Tbref'corr, ProIVDaM I Cbipprr as Aot Yonngater. W New York Herald. I met a shrewd-looking, fleet-flooted little body bustling up Broadway a lew days ago as if his very life depended upon his out distancing every other pedestrian on tha thoroughfare. .His features were strong, handsome and venerable, and, as be hastily picked his way through the crowd, his long, flowing gray locks were blown this way and that, forming a sort of aureole about a re matkable brow. This curious piece of nervous energy was recouiud by more than one as he went spinning up the street, for it was none other than Yale famous geologist, Pro . Dana, graphically dubbed "Ruxy" by his youth ful disciples. Pro . Dana passed his three score years and ten limit several years ago, but he still continues to bustle as a yootb, and it's a very able student who can set"sj job up on him that he cannot see through;:. Ttnston Barber' Ways. Boston Herald. Squeers You din't get a very good hail cut Hnegett No; it isn't cut as I wanted it Squeers Why not? Haggett Couldn't geta chance to tell the barber how I wanted it. He kept asking me if I didn't want a shampoo. 3
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers