1 r f-V-if-r; ? A TRIP TO JAPAN Experiences of a Steamship Bide of Over Fire Thousand Miles en the Pacific Waters. SIGHTS im SCENES AT HONOLULU. line E&lakana Isn't Compelled to Bell Fea X nutt for Kevenue,.bn.t He Hakes Hay in the' Palace Tard. A EUKDAT A8 DEI A8 IK HTT8BUEG. The Hltt4c, Jipanesa Beporters tad WaMel Been at the ExhihIUiB. rcoRBEsroOTErcx or THI SI8F.I.TCK.1 Tokyo, July 26. The hoteli in Tokyo sad Yokohama are not as fnll this rammer as they hare been on some previous tourist seasons, although it ras hoped that the great exhibition of Japanese art and Industry, which was opened in this city on April 1, and is to close in one week, would attract an unusual number of visitors. Two of the principaljhottls enlarged their premises in this expectation, but they might as well have saved the expense. The truth is Japan has hardly entered into fair competition with Europe as a summer resort for Americans on their annual vacation, and has remained the sporting cround chiefly ot the regular globe trotters who have not yet been able to turn the tide by their unanimons opinion that seeing Japan is the next best thing to visit ing the planets Mars or Venus. Erroneous notions regarding the climate probably keep some from coming here in the summer. 27o doubt it is warm in South ern Japan after the rainy season bos ceased, about the middlcof July; but there are numer ous charming seaside and mountain resorts v where it is always cool and where the well-to-do classes go; and visitors who come to Japan in summer have the advantage of seeing all its industries and almost all the details of domestic life, carried on in the open air, so that they can see and learn jnucn more than in winter, when the houses are partly closed and the inhabitants wrapped no in layer after layer of cotton wadded clothing by way of compensating for the absence of fireplaces, which winter tourists also find a source of great discom fort. 2TOT A GBEAT JOUEJf EX. Doubtless, also, the trip to Japan seems a more arduous undertaking to most Ameri cans than it proves to be on trial. The distance between iew lore and ban Fran cisco can be covered in five days, and from Ban Francisco (or Vancouver) the best steamers of the Pacific Hail, the Oriental and Occidental and the Canadian Pacific Companies make Yokohama in from 12 to 15 days, or about the time it used to take the average Atlantic steamer to go lrom New York to Europe until a few Tears ago when the ocean "grey hounds" were let loose. The Vancouver steamers have an ad vantage in regard to distance of several hundred miles over the San Francisco steamers; but they are smaller boats than the latter, and, being so far north, are more likely to encounter rough weather at all seasons. Not that the California steamers are exempt from such experiences. On the contrary, the trade winds, which make San Francisco such a delightfully cool place in summer, and keeps the water so cool there that few bathe in the surf even in August, blow along the coast dnring nine months of the year, so that passengers mnst expect a possibility of seasickness for two or three days after leaving California, even in the most favorable time of the yean But after that it is apt to be smooth sailing in summer that is tmootb. forthe unruly and ill-named "Pacific." I have repeatedly crossed the Atlantic when its surface for several days had the glassv smoothness of a lake; bnt the City of Peking, which left San Francisco on June 14, did not once run over such a glassy surface, although she went far south of the usual course in order to touch at the Sandwich Islands, and al though CaDtain Cavarly a most courteous and careful commander assured us every day of our quite unusual good luck in hav ing such a smooth voyage; whence we may infer that the Pacifio is rarely quite un ruffled. KING KALAKATJA'S HAT CROP. It is the enstom of the Pacifio Hail Steamship Company to send a steamer every three months 'via Honolulu. This adds over 800 miles to the voyage, but few of the passengers regret it, as it ensures a smoother trip and enables them to get a glimpse or Kalakaua's kingdom. The poor King is having a hard time of it between his debts and his small income, which pre vented him from visiting the Paris Ex position last year. A frivolous young San Franciscon said that the King was now keeping a peanut stand in front of the palace, where every foreigner was obliged to buy a dollar's worth, on penalty of hav ing his head chopped off. But we failed to see such a stand, although we walked all around the palace, which is an imposing structure, with spacious grounds and gardens. There is a music stand on one side, where a band of native musicians holds forth occasionally; and a single, soli tary soldier guards the entrance to the palace. The King seems to have learned to be economical, for the grass on his grounds is not allowed to wither and waste, bnt was carefully mowed and made into little piles of hay. It cannot be said that this hay was made" while the sun shone, for it rained every ten minutes all day long, and the air was as moist and warm as in a hot house, with the same mingled odors ot flowers and leaves and moist soil. These flowers, which aeemed to grow by preference on trees, either as tree blossoms or on creepers, lurnisnea the most delightful "local color" of the place. The sombre, cool, cocoanut palm groves were also inviting; bnt of the people of Honolulu there was little to see, as it was Sunday, which is strictly observed here, the stores being all closed, 'and not a drink, however harmless, being for sale anywhere except at the hotel. We saw but few of the dusky maidens, whose large black eyes, smiling faces, plump figures and merry gambols in the breakers or astride on horseback used to fascinate travelers. Bnt tbev still go about in a calico nightgown or Hother Hnbbards, without even a belt around tue waist, as meir oniy garment It looks cool and not UDgracefuL A GLOBE-TBOTTIIf G STAT. To travel 2,000 miles to an island famed for its Dalm prarei. flowers, suirar planta tions, pretty Polynesian girls, luscious melons and mangoes, and ever-acuve volcanoes, the grandest in the world and stay only five hours, as we did, was most tantalizing, and made one seem worse than a Nellie Bly or a George Francis Train. Bnt if any one had remained behind he would have had no other chance to reach Japan in three months, except backwards ria San Francisco. So we reluctantly boarded our steamer again, and started on the remaining 3,500 miles of our lengthened trip. Durine the whole voyage of 6,500-' miles we oniy saw one Dart, and not another sign of man's existence on earth besides our ark which contained American, Japanese, Chinamen, sheep (for rood) cows (Holstein stock for Japan), the bones of Chinamen, and a cargo of flowers for Hong Kong. Gulls followed us for a week, and ve'saw the beautiful snow-white tropical birds, and every day a few flying fish; and - tbl was all in three long weeks. In the harbor of Yokohama many foreign ships are seen among these native vessels, including American, French, German, Turkish and several English men-of-war. The 1,600 resident foreigners in Yokohama and the 300 in Tokio therefore cannot com plain cf inadequate protection. Should the 'aMU-Ioreign xeeiisg, waicu eccauonaiiy u manifested in certain quarters (strange to say, especially among the - students), ever assume serious proportions, these men-of-war would be able to take all foreign .resi dents on board at short notice. Such a thing, however, is not at all likely to happen. Japan cannot be shut off again from the rest of the world for two or three centuries ,as it was until Commodore Perry and Iora Elgin reopened it, about 30 years ago. JAPAN'S new eba. The railroads, ot which more than a dozen have been constructed, some by the,""!IeIJJr ment, some by private enterprise; the 17,000. miles of telegraph wire, conveying annually over 3,000.000, messages in Japanese, and about 70,000 in foreign languages; the im portation of foreign professors and ideas at the university; ot foreign teachers of mili tary tactics, medical science and legal in stitutions; the obligatory introduction in court circles, in the police corps and the army of toreign dress these and a thousand other innovations have created such a pow erful ferment that the Japanese customs will never again be allowed to settle into their old state, and those who wish to see any thing of old Japan will, therefore, have to make haste and. come before it is too late. The gaudily-colored paper lan terns will soon be replaced by electro light, and the electric street car will soon decimate the energetic, indefatigable jin rickspa men who now draw natives and foreigners alone the street on their kurumas, those curious little vehicles, half way be tween a buggy and a baby carriage, which were introduced in Japan only 20 years ago, and now exist in countless numbers. Their disappearance, in the cities at least, will 'hardly be regretted, tor although they travel almost as fast as carriages, it costs about 30 cents to go five miles on them, while in American cities you can go five to ten miles on street cars or elevated roads for 6 cents. PURELY A JAPANESE SHOW. The manager had, however, visited sev eral recent European exhibitions, and moddled the present one on those, so that the general impression of the present exhi bition is European rather than Jananese, and it-is only when one looks closely at the contents of the showcases and stands that the purely Japanese coloring of the exhibits becomes apparent. Here are room after room of the finest lacquer goods; vases of all sizes and the most exquisite texture and ornamentation; teacups that the most in fatuated lover would deem fit to touch his sweetheart's lips; screens and fans on which Japanese life is illustrated better than in any book and most of these things at prices that wonld make American bargain hunters wild with delight. And a pity it is that they cannot have access to them, for owing to a partial failure of the last rice crop, money is scarce, visiters to the exhibition are not so numerons as on previous occasions, and less willing to buy. Some of the exhibitors staked all their hard earned savings on this opportunity to dis pose of their goods; but while the estimated value of the exhibits is $800,000, only about $100,000 worth have been sold, which leaves these dealers and artists in a sad plight. There were about 850,000 visitors dnring the first three months, or a daily average of about 8,840, including foreigners holding special invitations and other dead-heads; but as season tickets were only $2 each, and a single admission only 7 cents (15 on Sun days) the income for general expenses was not excessive. The higher admission price asked on Sunday is to give the upper classes a better chance to see without mixing with the crowds, for whom, Saturday is the great day. STJNDAT NO HOLIDAT. Foreign influence has not yet extended so far as to make Sunday a general holiday. Work goes on. and shops are open as usual, except that at Yokohama the custom house and the foreigners' stores are closed. In general, it must be said that this exhibition, which is like a curio store on a vast scale, including industrial products of all kinds, and thus giving an insight into Japanese ways of living, is eminently successful, and deserved a better fate financially. The only department which is disappoint ing is the art gallery. In commenting on the difficulty of getting sight of good Japan ese pictures, which are scattered all over the country, and generally belong to wealthy individuals, to whom'one mnst get ceremon ious and time-robbing letters of introduc tion, Mr. La Farge remarked to me a few months ago in Hew York that he felt tempted to revisit Japan this snminer, chief ly for the opportunity of seeing many of these works of art brought under one roof. He would not, however, have 'attained his object, for there are hardly av dozen can vases of special merit in the present collec tion. Both the old and the new schools are represented, bnt the screen-shaped pictures still predominate over the modern sqnare canvases. Birds and flowers have always been the most successful province of Japan ese artists, but there are also a few good landscapes and scenes from domestic life.. In comparing these pictures with a similar collection in America the most striking diflerence, as regards subjects, lies in the en tire absence of the nude in Japanese art, THE MIKADO AT THE SHOW. It was announced in the local paper a few days ago that the Hikado and the Em press wonld preside over the distribution ot prizes awarded by the judges of the exhibi tion. A large pavilion had been erected, capable ot holding several thousand in vited guests. The Mitado's throne was on one side, and a sloping platform covered with white matting led up to it. On both sides ot the throne a few rows of European chairs had been placed for the Japanese Ministers, the foreign Embassadors and members of the pjess. The thousands out side of this charming circle had to stand, as was befitting in the august presence of the Mikado, the Embassadors and the news- Sapcr men (the Empress had been prevented y illness from appearing). "I found my colleagues of the Japanese press very affable and courteous. To see two American journalists bow to each other until their heads were on a level with their lowest coat buttons would hardlv seem na tural; here it is the usual mode o'f salutation at every meeting. Like most of the other Japanese, they were in fnll dress swallow tail, white tie and high silk hat, though the performance began at 9 o'clock in the morn ing. This mav strike you as ludicrous, and it is so. There is something ludicrous in the dress coat itself, but the time ot the day when it is worn has nothing to do with it. WITH OEEMAS MUSIC. The arrival of the Hikado in his fine coach was heralded by the Boyal brass band, which played the Japanese national hymn with German harmonies, on German instruments and followed it up at intervals with European dance music, a curious preference being shown for the polka rhythm. As the Hikado walked up to his throne the as sembled thonsands bowed their beads. The cheers with which European Boyalty is re ceived are unknown to the Japanese, but an attempt was made to applaud the Hikado in the foreign manner of hand- clapping when he sat down, and after he had read his address; bnt this did not seem to meet with general approval, the general feeling being apparently that solemn silence was the most becoming way of receiving a monarch who traces his royal ancestry back more than 2,000 years, and who is one of the first of their rulers that Jhe Japanese have been permitted to gaze upon, his ancestors having been for many generations kept in seclusion in their paUce grounds, where 'no one was allowed to intrude. Tne Hikado js not a handsome man. His forehead is low, his lower lip thick, and the scant hair on his upper lip, chin and cheeks does not improve his appearance. His ex pression is solemn, almost stern, but there is something majestic in his bearing which is prepossessing; and he is said to be a nan of uncommon intelligence, and that he takes an earnest interest in the welfare oi his sub jects was shown in his willingness to pre side over the distribution of prizes on this occasion. After he and several of the officials had read their addresses the principal recipients of the prizes came up in couples, bowed before His Majesty and re ceived their rolls of parchment, whereupon they retreated a dozen steps, lobster fashion, before etiquette allowed them to turn their baek on the Hikado. The ceremony lasted about an hour, after which the Emperor dreve off in his carriage to the sounds of the national hymn. Hjotbt J. FotCX. THE REEFING THE SAILS. Snccess in Life Depends on Knowing Jnst When to Do It. DAIGER IN TOO MUCH CANVAS. Wreck That Overtakes Men Who Cannot Bear to Fall Behind. THK C0DSTEI PAESOK'S PHILOBOPHT lwxrrrxx roa thx bistatcb. No more beautiful sight can be imagined than a clipper ship-in inll sail, with a stiff breeze on the quarter. How she leaps upon the bosom of the restless ocean, how saucily she plunges her figure head into the bound ing billow, and emerging therefrom, shakes herself like a young retriever. Merrily she dances and prances along, now upon the crest, and again in the trough. The helms man keeps her well up to the wind, and, as he spins the wheel when she veers a point, he is proudly conscious of a power possessed by his giant arm, a power that controls and guides the monster ship. Obeying his will, the helm answers right royally, and never a sail bnt bends to the breeze and does its part in the onward surge and plunge. A steamship at full speed is a noble sight to gaze upon, but a sailing vessel seems to have more life. The romance and heroism of old ocean still clusters around the oak and canvas of 60 years ago. Tossing the spray up to the yard-arms, with every stitch of canvas bellying to the breeze, we hear the glad cry ot the outlook forward, as he rincs the passing hours, "eight bells, and all's welll" Homeward bound, the seaman sings his merry song, or down below, in swinging hammock, dreams of green fields, ivy clad -..... .Ttn wife nri rnmniDP children. joyously expecting his long delayed return. www When Adrersltv Cornea. But fair winds' do not hold. At sunset the barometer begins to settle down. In the northwest a gray cloud caps the horizon, and, sail as gaily as she will, it grows larger and larger every moment The watch below hears the ominous command: "All hands shorten sail 1" There is presently a flapping and a cracking of loosely hanging canvas. Trumpeted commands and sometimes coarse oaths follow each other rapidly, and finally, from the companionway comes the moment ous cry: "All hands on deck; smart now, every manl" "Aye, age, sir," growls the sailor as he tumbles from his bertb, seizes bis son' wester and hurries on deck. The sea is inky black; here and there patches or crested foam be spot its surface like wild whits sea birds in a fright. A few minutes and everything is stowed, top gallant, gib and spanker. Beefed everything; yes, double reefed; mainsail furled, spencer and staysails set. It comes like a herd of wild bison on the plains. She groans before the storm, bnt, many miles away from a lee shore, she saiely rides the tempest and laughs at borean blasts. None too soon, however, were thoso expansive sheets furled home, for had the gale struck her un der full spread she would soon have found ered, and another would have been added to the many mysteries that the sea enfolds within its capacious bosom. It is far safer to shorten sail than boastingly brave the tempests of life, or braeglngly langb, as did the captain of the schooner Hesperus, when he said: For I can weather the roughest gale That ever wind did blow. Men Who Carrr Too Much. There is more than one rugged reef of Norman's "Woe, gentle reader. All the wrecks are not in mid-ocean, nor yet upon its craggy cliffs or sunken reefs. "We are living in times when many men. .carry too much sail. The bnsiness man looks ahead and thinks he sees an opportunity. He is safely sailing along the gulf stream of ordinary prosperity. Trade winds are steadily blowing, and league upon league is added to the log of gradually increasing fortune. He stands upon the poop deck of his apparently slowly sailing craft, and looking through the telescope of impatience, he sees others sailing past him. He cannot bear it. He spreads more sail. Specnlation takes the place of sturdy, strong endeavor. The suburban cottage grows into a perfect palace. The horse and buggy is transformed into a carriage and pain The wife discards calicos and mer inos for silks and satins. The single servant is multiplied into three or four. The man of all work beeins to wear a little band of silver ribbon around his,high hat. A coat of arms is painted on the carriage. A trip to Europe for the family every year, a more elevated position in society. How grandly the ship does Gail I Pile on canvas, here a spanker and there a jib. But a crash comes. She reels and trembles, this mighty leviathan of enter prise and push. She has struck the coral reef of speculation on the coast of Despair. "All hands on deck!" But it is too late. A sad faced wife returns to her home to find a reg flag hangine outside, and a rude un friendly voice inside trying to sell the house and its treasured contents. Where is the husband and father? Ask the slimy weeds at the bottom of the river yonder. They alone can tell the sad story. He carried too large a spread of canvas. Better reel a lit tle. Don't yon think so? A Familiar Story. A young man goes from his country home to the city. He is his mother's joy and his father's pride. A position of trust and re sponsibility suits both his taste and his ability. Hitherto his character has been exemplary. But city life intoxicates him. Its whirl is too rapid, and just where he was thought to be strongest he fails. Evil com panions induce him to enter questionable places ot resort. He knows nothing of the quiet detective who is shadowing his move ments. One fine morning, when his head is aching, he is called into the office and politely informed that his services will be dispensed with. He has committed no orime; is not guilty of any misdemeanor, but the firm' of Lucre & Co. know that he spreads more canvas than the depth of hold or width of beams allows, and that he must inevitably founder. "Better take in a reef, my boy, ere it is too late. Did you ever try to shorten sail in a cat-boat in a gale of wind? I have. It's a risky business, my son. It's always best to keep the sheet line in your hand, so that yon can let it run when a blow comes. Luff a little now and thea, if yon want to make against the wind, but hold her loose, hold her loose. A ship looks better in stays than upside down. Better shorten saiL Too Many Soils. Jack of all trades and master of none de scribes thousands of men in onr great coun try. They dabble in everything, and really succeed in nothing. Every community has its man of this character. He tries every door. Agent for this and that, handy with saw and axe, hoe and spade, but never using either long enough to rnb off the rust. He is a politician, has a loose tongue which al most proves the truth of perpetual motion, and knocks opposing theories into smither eens. Sometimes he preaches, that is, he "lay" preaches. Scripture flows flippantly from his tongue with such readiness that some folks imagine him to be a genius. And so he is. A genius is generally on the . eve of tome grand achievement. . He has just found the philosopher's stone. He rolls it around, admires its brilliancy, but soon .discovers that it it nonght but a useless peb ble. There are unique men who are apt at many things. They can carry quite a number of sails and keep things snug, and well in hand, bnt the majority of men had better ttick to one good aqnare tail than ran oat PITTSBUBG DISPATCH, jibs and spankers for every little puff of for tune. Your genius does not often amount to anything, unless, perchance, he stumbles upon common Bense ideas before he has worn himself out, body and mind, trying eTerT" thing that comes' across his pathway. A reputation for one thing well done is far bet ter than the name of being "smart at most anvthtn. a. . "If fa tipttfiT to -.Jiuiujj, OttJTB SUUiC UJJG, w- do everything. little than a little of everytning." A Chinese junK wouia " out of place trying to carry the broad main sail of the racing yacht Hayflower, to say nothing of the danger, and so a square man trying to wriggle himself into every round hole he comes across is ridiculous in the ex treme. CoTerlDg Too Much Ground. A man of sturdy character along some specific line of usefulness may spread him self ont so thin that he soon becomes in visible. You can beat out a golden $5 piece until it covers your parlor floor, and it still remains intact so far as its actual intrinsio worth is concerned, but there are very few men who can afford to be pounded very much. God has a place for every man to fill, a certain sphere of action in which he is intended to move. If the devil can in duce him to taste of forbidden fruit, and spread himselt out till he is lost to all his opportunities for good he will certainly re joice. Little boats should stay near shore, Bat larger ones may venture more. If young men would take advice from older ones I do not mean old ones they would succeed in life sooner. Not one man in a hundred reaches the full fruition of life's' possibilities under 40 years of age. This need not be so, it the discipline one man nndergoes could be utilized by another. George Eliot says: "Genius, at first, is little more than a great capacity for receiving discipline." The trouble with very young men is that they feel their wings too soon. Not far from my study windows robin built her nest. The young birds were anxious to try their powers of flight The mother bird, protested. She was successful with all but one, a great, downy silly looking fellow, all eyes and abdomen. He would fly. He did, but his avoirdupois was beyond his power of suspension. The law of gravity was too much for him, and down he went He met with an unexpected reception from the cat, who had watched with longing eyes for jnst such an event Bishop Home says: "Ad versity borrows its bitterest sting from our impatience." I would not, however, curb ambition. A young man without this qual ity is oi little use in our busy lite. No, no; not that, for with Whittier I believe it is: Wetter to stem with heart and band The roaring tide of life than lie Unmindful, on the flowery straud For God's occasions, floating by, .Better with naked nerve to bear The needles of this goading air, -Than in the lap of sensuous ease forgo The godlike power to do. the godlike aim to know. THB COTOTTRT PABSOJT.- PUTOBHMG HTJEDEEEEB. Opinions for and Asrnln.t Capital Punish ment In Any Form. Xew York Herald. J Anthony Comstock, the head of the So ciety for the Suppression of Vice, is strongly opposed to the abolition of the death penalty. "It would never do," he said, "to do away with capital punishment If imprisonment for life were to be substi tuted for the death penalty murders would, in my opinion, increase at a fearful rate. Imprisonment for life would in fact be no punishment for onr criminal classes. If we hung quicker after conviction and withont so much delay it would be better. David L. Hoody, the revivalist, also records his vote against the abolition of capital punishment. "I believe in capital punishment," he says, "and I do not believe life would be safe without it. I am opposed to any proposition to abolish it" William F. Howe, who as a criminal law yer has had as wide experience with crimi nals and especially murderers, does not be lieve in capital punishment. He says: "Out of 600 eases which I have defended where homicide was charged I have lost but eight That shows how difficult it is to convict in these cases. Capital punishment should be abolished. There is no use for it It Is not detersive; never has been and never will be. I favor imprisonment for life. There should be no power to pardon in such cases. Let the convicted murderer be sent to a living tomb and kept there. That would be punish ment indeed. There is less punishment about hanging than most persons think. That is another reason why there is no use for it Imprisonment for life is a real de terrent of murder. Hanging is not" Belva Lockwood, the woman lawyer, is rather undecided as to whether capital pun ishment should be abolished or not She does, however, believe that the day of brntal hanging exhibitions has passed. Some way of inflicting the punishment in a painless but sure and quick way should be adopted. Mrs. Lockwood thinks that electricity is the best means at hand. ' H0ESE BAGHTO IK JAPAN. Binnted Animate Carry Fat Owners nnd Outsider Bet n niacb as a Cant, The Japanese sport cannot stop a baseball owing to the formation of his legs, but when he includes a pony in his parentheses he is in his element At the race track a $10 entrance 'fee, with 25 added, is an event that draws a crowd which would make an Amer ican track manager's mouth water, but it need not Host of the spectators go in for a cent or two, and the poolshed is no richer when they leave. The fact is, these races in Tokio are given at a church festival. Few tracks in America or Europe have the magnificent furnishings that this Kou dan track has. Stunted horses, half the size of El Bio Bey and Hanover, run until they are ready to drop under the weight of their jockeys. The item of weight is immaterial in a Japanese race, as the proper thing is for the owner of the horse, no matter of what weight, to take the mount himself. I have seen these ponies carry 145 and 150 pounds, and sometimes 160, run around a mile track and make fairly good time at that But time is not taken into account The vital point in a race over here it to beat all the other horses. On the race course the Chinese poniet are looked upon with the most favor, and a race between 12 or 15 of them is fnll of interest and novelty. They are vicious little beasts and have to carry the enormous weights they do because lightweight jockeys would not be able to manage them. When they once get off on a fair start the go in to win and jockeys ride for all there it in the race. They raise a good deal of noise and wear their colors in a fashion all their own. and yet when there is an exciting fin ish it is anybody's race until they actually reach the string. THE IHSAHE OF GHOUL A Returning- Traveler Finds That' No Anylnma Exist, Though Badly Needed. Maw York Star.l The Bev. Dr. E. P. Thwing, of Brooklyn, is home from his extended trip through China and Japan, after an absence from this country of 11 months. "I spent a good deal of time," he said, "in Canton, China. Though I found in that city a well con ducted hospital, yet, to my surprise, I dis covered that there was, no insane asylum there. Such an institution is sadly needed in China, as the people believe that in sanity is the result of the work of evil spirits, andthose afflicted with it may be chained up or put out of the way., "Before I left Canton an. organization, with a Board of Directors, had been started there to receive funds and proceed with the erection of an asylum building, as soon as there shall be money enough tor that pur pose. There it a marked interest in this Jirojeet among the foreign residents and the nfluential Chineas of Canton. I shall lec ture throughout the country to raise money for the Chinese asylum project" ., SUNDAY, AUGUST '17, A WORLDS WONDER. Tisit to the Mammoth Caverns of Cacahnamilpa in Mexico. 7 GORGEOUS PALACE UNDERGROUND. Tast Depths in Which Pistol Bhota Be come the Boar of Cannon. ADYEHTUEE8 IK THE iZTEO LA5D8 rCOHRXSrOMDXHCX OT TBX DISrATCK.1 Cats ofacahtamtxfa, ) Mexico, August 2.' "You must give me 30 pesosl" "Have you taken leave of your tensest" "Do vou think I do not know the price?" "Goo'dby." "I say, senor, how mnch will yon give?" "I will give you 20 pesos." "Now you are not reasonable; give me 35 pesos and it will be a sale." "All right; have him ready early in the morning." The foregoing was the substance of a dia logue in Spanish which took place one morning abont two weeks ago before the low adobe hut of an humble Mexican in the suburbs of the capital. The object of the dialogne stood near by, occasionally blink ing his sleepy eyes and shaking his long head as though he understood every word. A pair of long ears erected now and then as if better to catch the conversation, and two pairs of slender, musceled legs unmistakably proclaimed the species of the animal. It was a mule. I had been rather doubtful of the good qualities of the animal at first sight but after the owner had volubly declared him to be a hard worker and a small eater, and had offered to sacrifice a dilapidated saddle with him, I concluded thafprobably my judgment on mules was not correct, and paid over my 25 pesos. Jocko was the ani mal's name. OF TOE THE CATEBIT. Just as the sun was showing itself on the following morning above the tall peaks that bound on the East the beautiful valley of the City ot Mexico we started southward. Jocko, who seemed very tractable, allowed me to bind my grip and Innch bag on his back and then to climb into the saddle with out showing any signs of displeasure, and when I hissed into his ears the Hexican driver uses his teeth instead of his tongue in nrging his animals forward he started off at a lively canter that rapidly con sumed miles, but proved distressing' to- various portions ot my anatomy. We had completed more than half our journey to Cnernavaca when the thick, black clouds overhead told that the daily shower was at hand. Accordingly shelter was sought in the thatched hut of a ,peon close by the road. Now, the hut of a Hexican peon is neither the most convenient nor the most odorless place in the world. Instead of a bed there is a hard stone or mud floor; instead of bedding there is a heap of straw or sometimes rags, and tor a covering there is an old blanket which has not been aired in weeks, and which is peopled by your imagination at least by myriads of creeping things. The entire family father, mother, and generally a whole horde of off spring bunk together in one corner with such accommodations as these and really appear refreshed wheu they rise in the morning. Sometimes when space is scarce without a litter of pigs and a brood of chickens will also find quarters within the hut A SLEEPLESS NIGHT. Although I lay in my hammock it can be imagined that amid such surroundings sleep that night was neither of the most restful nor the most profound kind, and I was heartily glad when the morning broke and allowed the journey to be continued. The way led down the long mountain road and the sun had not long shown his hot face above the mountain tops before we were passing through the great sugar haciendas of this region the largest and most produc tive in the Bepublic. Great fields of wav ing cane flanked the road on both sides and extended back as far as the eye could reach. The scene was a strong reminder of those along the Louisiana shore of the Missis sippi river. At midday we were riding into the beau tiful little town of Caernavaca, with its nu merous gardens and groves, and its many mementoes of Cortez,the Spanish conqueror. The town seems to have had small respect for the dwelling places of prominent per sonages, for the once-famous palace of the conqueror it has converted into a court house whether as a sarcastic reminder of inflexible injustice which the bloody Span iard always dealt out to the native no one was able to inform me and the villa of the ill-fated Emperor Maximilian it has turned into a schoolhouse. . A EACE OF AZTECS. A short distance from the town along a road that might at one time have permitted the passage of a wagon, but which is now so rough and overgrown with brush that even a mule has difficulty in picking its way, lies the littte village of Acopanclngo. Here is one of the few places in the imme diate range of travel where can be seen Indians or the pnre Hexican type, who from the various modes of lite, the various mod ern customs and the various modern imple ments offered them by the incoming civiliza tion have accepted only one religion. They speak the same' tongue as the ancient Aztecs, they dress in similar garments, they practice the same manners. And as one rides slowly through their few cleanly streets', observes their extensive and well-cultivated farms, sees on every hand indications of wealth obtained by industry and is charmed by their quiet and simple life, almost un consciously the mind wanders back to those ancient days when the all-powerful Hon tezuma wielded his scepter here, and the long time ancestors of these same people with the toil of scores of years and myriads of hands erected those massive and pnzzling works of architecture, remains of which the energetio traveler finds' throughout the Be public A CELEBRATED CATEEJT. A ride of two days so rough that much oi the pleasure of its object is sacrificed in the fatigue which it entails directly south from Cnernavaca brings the traveler to the celebrated cavern of Cacahnamilpa, than which Hexico presents no more wonderfnl or interesting natural phenomenon. It hat even been asserted by the few who have visited it that no finer cavern is to be found in the world. And here it might be re marked as an indication of the non-progressive qualities of the average Hexican, that although the cavern possesses attrac tions sufficient Jo draw hundreds of visitors yearly, not a tingle conveyance of any kind, regular or irregular, runs to it, and nowhere in the vicinity are there to be found quar ters that could be regarded as decent, mnch less comfortable. As a gnide I engaged a peon, whose face, although mnch begrimed with dirt, showed signs of more than ordinary intelligence, and whose tongue, wagging with a volubil ity almost unknown to his class, informed me with mnch redundancy that its possessor knew not only all of the interior of the cave but also a small and easy entrance thereto, unknown to everyone but himself. THE SECRET PASSAGE. Supplied with candles from my grip, we set out Over a streteh of broken ground and through a growth ot thick underbrush we stumbled to a small rocky opening almost hidden from sight by a dense growth of bushes. Down this we slowly made onr way until we reached a small chamber whose jagged sides and roof glistened with moisture, and whose broken floor was filled with crevices, the depth of which I conid not sound with a long stick I carried. Passing to the inner side, we stooped to squeeze our way through a narrow opening, having sue cessfnllr nasaed which it took but a fleetine- fiance even in the dim light which onr candies threw to show that we were in the grand "taloon" of the cavern. Away above us, like the vaulted dose of hbo van assembly tail, stretched, the L890. rocky roof, a thousand great stalactite glistened in the dull light like polished marble hanging therefrom. Far in advarice could bo seen faintly the inner end of the "saloon," It is only a littlelessthan shame ful that some unromantic traveler shonld have applied to these imposing phantasies of nature such a vulgar name Its jagged and rocky points displaying varied and beautiful colorings. , QUICKLY CHANGING COLORS. A" short walk over the broken floor brought us to the center from which the view of the myriads of stalactites pendentin great masses everywhere above us like so manv massive icicles was most imposing. To the right lav a great pile of strangely shaped, glistening white rocks. To the left broad openings into the chambers of the cavern showed themselves, the atmosphere about which changed from a brilliant blue to a brilliant green hue. and then back again to a blue with lightning rapidity. A shallow stream of water, as clear as crys tal and of refreshing coolness, flawed with a quiet murmur along one side of the cham ber, and lost itself beneath a clump of brownish stones, to appear again in an ad jacent "saleon." A whisper, if ever so faint, seemed to per meate every crevice of the cavern, and came back with startling distinctness. Spoken tones took: on all the strength of a shout, and when I once raised my voice to its bight in an unstinted yell, the sound echoed and re-echoed with deafening effect for sev eral minutes. A single pistol shot -cracked out for some time with ear-splitting inten sity, and then slowly relapsed into a dull boom not unlike that of a cannon. The echo had not subsided when the cavern was quitted a half hour later. FIFTEEN GRAND CAVERNS. Onr jonrney continued through other chambers, none quite so large, but all glit tering with stalactites and presenting the other distinguishing features of the grand "saloon." The guide informed me that there were altogether 15 of these "saloons," bnt that only a few persons had ever ven tured into the innermost ones. Unmindful of his statement made when I engaged him to the effect that he knew all of the cavern he refused to lead me into them becanse he "wasn't sure," and feeling that the fellow had earned his fee of one peso we slowly re traced our steps to the entrance. I felt satisfied as I once more emerged into the open air that my exertions to reach Ca cahnamilpa had been amply repaid by a sight of what is undoubtedly the finest stalactite cavern in the world. One incident of my visit here is so fnll of novelty that I cannot refrain from relating it On the evening of the first day on which I inspected the cave X fonnd a place to pitch my hammock for the night in the little hut o'f an old Indian family. Before turning in, however, I sat at the doorway for some time in the fading twilight, and for want of a better companion held a one-sided conversation with Jacks, who lay a few feet distant from me. I was in the midst of an extended disser tation on the successful results of our day's work, and was scoring up not a few credit marks to my own perseverance, when sud denly out of the gloom about me sounded a harsh voice. A HUNT FOB A VOICE, "Batst" I jumped hastily to my feet and looked around, ready to extend a' warm welcome to the fellow traveler who had penetrated to these wild depths. An American I felt sure he must be, for who else would use such a distinctively Yankee expression? Unable to see anyone about the inmates of the hut had long since retired I called out: "Hello, where are you?" Again out of the gloom came that harsh voice "Bats I" I ran around the hut, peered into a clump of bashes near by, struck a light and looked intoN the interior of the hut and was on the point of arousing my host when that harsh voice sounded, this time louder than before, "Oh, ratsl ratsl" One glance backward at the doorway un deceived me. There, in a rough, wooden cage, blinking its eyes and ruffling its feathers as if in friendish delight at my dis comfiture, tat a parrot So great was mj curiosity to learn how or where the bird had picked up that derisive word that I im mediately awakened the entire family. That it had come into their possession a year previous from a neighboring family now removed was all the information I could obtain. It will always remain a mystery to me, I fear, how Poll removed so far from civilization, acquired a knowledge of that exclusively American idiom. George T. Hargreates. WANTED TO SELL HIS BODY. Instance of the Desperation to Waloh a Iiandlndv Can Drive a Man. Philadelphia Tunas. The occupants of the Coroner's office re ceived a surprise yesterday morning, and Christian Lambert, who lives at 47 Perkins street, Gloucester, was the cause. Accom panied by .his cousin. Mrs. Kate Harbner, Lambert entered the office. Deputy Coroner Dugan came forward and asked 'what he could do for them. "I want to sell a body,"! ga;a Lambert "Where is the body?" asked Mr. Dngan. "Here," answered Lambert, opening hit coat and vest and offering himself for inspec tion. "You don't mean to say you wish to tell your own body?" said Mr. Dugan, stepping back. "Yes, that is what I mean," said Lam bert. "I have been out of work for eight weeks and I owe Mrs. Habner money for board. If you will give me 75 for my body I can pay her and yon may kill me." This proposition so staggered the Deputy that it was some minutes before he could collect himself sufficiently to ask Lambert if he had any choice in the manner of his being killed. "I wouldn't mind being killed by elec tricity or cremated," was the answer. By 'this time it was evident that the man was fully in earnest and the Deputy Coroner delivered an impressive leoture . on the enormity of the deed he proposed to commit Lambert listened in a dazed manner and seemed very much disappointed. A collec tion was taken up and given to Lambert and be gave it to Mrs. Harbner, who claimed that he was in arrears for board. aTnrovay BATES A LD7B. A Story Old Tecamseh In Telllnc Aleut Comedian Jo JeffersoB, New York Press. 1 General William T. Sherman It a good story teller and he enjoys telling them at much as some people enjoy listening to them. His latest is about Joseph Jefferson, and is as follows: "Joe come to my room in the Fifth Avenue Hotel about three years ago, and he chatted at the window there one summer afternoon. He had with him a light, thin overcoat, which he threw over a chair. After he had gone I found under the chair a roll of paper tied with a piece of red tape the old red tape I know so well. I picked it up, in spected it, and then I said, 'this is not mine,' and ran ont to catch Joe. I ran to the elevator, shouting, 'Joe, Joel' "I saw him two stairs below, butmy voice wouldn't go down, It would only go up, so I had to run down, and I finally overtook htm. ' 'Joe, did you drop this roll of paper?" "He turned to me with a look full of joy. " Glory; Sherman, yon have saved my lifer '"What do yon mean; how have I saved your life? " 'Why," replied Jefferson, with that fa miliar twinkle in his eye, "I am publishing my life, and that is my first chapter." ' A Care lor Diarrhea. Mathew Armstrong, of Crofton, Ky.,' now in hit 70th year, tayt he hat been troubled with diarrhea every summer at far back at He can recollect He has in hit time used many 'medicines, bnt none equal to Chamberlain's Colic, Cholera and Diarrhea Bemedy. This remedy it prompt in Its effects, can always be depended upon and when re duced with water it pleasant to take; Chil dren do not object to taking it Than NO GOOD CAN EESULT From the Ideas of Society Inculcated by the Four Hundred. MERIT HAS BEEN LOST SIGHT OF. The Good That Sight be Accomplished With Money Ifoir Wasted m THE HAD EITALRI FOB DISPLAT rwnxrmr rent rax dumtch.3 The popnlati6n of New York City is nearly 2,000,000 people. Of these, as estimated, 400 constitute the "society."' This small minority aims to he the so-called "leisure class." Trade to tbit class is vulgar; shop keeping'is low; labor, as in the South before the war, is degrading. Among the "four hundred," not only or New York, but of other cities as well, fools flourish and abound. Young men grow up at dudes, and graduate at aristocratic loafers, and maidens fair are trained to marry for a title or for money and position. Tennyson sings '"Tit only noble to be good," but the "four hundred" affirm by precept and practice that to be noble it to trade off beauty for a name, or to buy an English earl, a German baron, an Italian count or an impeennious prince with the millions gathered bv grubbing fathers. It is happiness enough for the dudes to wear English clothes, to sow wild oats and achieve fame by running away with ballet girls. The nnhappiness parents must feel who have brought their daughters up to marry money and their sons to pursue idle ness when their plans go wrong and they discover their mistake, must be bitter in deed, unless tempered by the reflection that by the code of society they have anyhow done their fnll duty by their children. JIOITET THE OPEN" SESAME. In Europe, where the borders of so-called society are positively defined by rank, and, money or no money, those entitled to it are assured of their place; there is no trouble in maintaining social supremacy. Adnchess is a duchess in a garret as well as in a pal ace, bnt high position can only be held in this country when fortified by the almighty dollar. ' The Astors and the Vanderbllts wonld be no more to the world than their poor relations if they had not the prestige of great wealth. If the original John Jacob had not been a thrifty, industrious peddler with some brains to speak of, and his wife had not been an able helpmeet, both as to doing her own work and helping him with his, it is hardly likely that the Astors of to-day would have been at the top of the heap in the city of New York, or that they would have been engaged in a struggle for precedence as displayed upon a visiting card. What seems funny in this battle of the cards is that neither of the ladies engaged have any claim to pre-eminence or fame upon their own account, but simply to wear the name of the good woman of years agone, who worked in her husband's shop, and 'never dreamed ot being a leader in society. Bnt while the spectacle of two women bringing all their forces of brains and in fluence to bear upon this intangible, in definite something for a title, makes the world laugh; it gives plain token of the barrenness of society that can be all torn up over such a trifle. AS THE WOKLS BEES IT. Hen who push their way from poverty to prominence and wealth as Abraham Lin coln pushed his way from the backwoods log cabin to the Presidency 'are en titled to honor. General Grant pushed out .of his failure of farming and and the tanning into the tented field and won the highest honors the world can give. Garfield pushed up lrom the towpath to the White House chair. Blaine from being teacher of a country school has pushed his way to be Prime Minister of the United States, and chief apostle of the American system. Stanley pushed his way up from the rank and file to stand among kings, and be honored by the foremost powers of the world. Andrew Carnegie, from the position of a messenger boy on Pittsburg streets, has pushed his way to fame and wealth counted by millions. All these, and those like them, possessing pluck, enterprise and power to push, who reach the heights for which they aim, have received the applause of their fellow-mortals. But when has the bray of brass, the beat of drnms, the blare of trumpets sounded the praises of the women who, with the same qualities of untiring energy and ambition, have pushed their way from wash tnbs and kitchen drudgery into the heart of "society," into the ranks of foreign nobility, into the inner circle of divine distinction, where they can sit in Queens' gardens and are made proud by smile of royalty or Princes' favor? EXEBGY MISDIRECTED. These women expend their forces, not in the sphere of business, or in the achieve ment of high place in church or state, as do men, but in their own limited field of "so ciety." Here they engage in the business of pushing themselves up and keeping others down. In this pursuit they know the power of money as well as the silver kings and the iron kings. With enough dollars they can buy their way into the aristocracy as easily as a silver king can get into Con gress. These people are as good as a cirens to those who know them, especially when they forget their ancestors and prate about the lower closses. When they get a coat of arms upon their carriages, a couple of flunkeys in livery to give them some style, and have been to "Yoorup" a half dozen times or so, and have a couple of maids and 16 trunks, they are quite prond of them selves, and assume all the airs of superiority which blue blood, and an ancestry of free hooters, robbers and royal rapscnlllons of Norman birth implies When high-toned Southerners take pride in being descendants of the first families, the ttudent of history thinks back over the record and remembers that the prisons of Europe were opened to people the colonies, and that the scalawags were gotten ridof In tbeOld World by being sent oves to the Western wilds. THE CLIQUES ABE STEBTWHESZ. This assumption of superiority at consti tuting the best society by virtue of wealth or high birth, it tet up bv silly people in every city and village, and watering place and summer resort Cliques or sets are formed by the sordid standard which so many women with small brains and niggard souls are perpetually struggling to main tain. Social position can be easily reached by costly dressing, grand houses and splen did entertainments. Hodest merit, moderate means, plain dressing have not a ghost of a show in the society whose measure of man kind is money. The moneyed aristocrats are opposed to poor people in their pews. These can be frozen out ot the eburch on earth by raising the pew rents, but how it it to be managed in heaven, onlv heaven knows. "We don't want that Mist B in our set," said haughty Miu A at Chautauqua the other day. "Well, why not," was asked. "Ob, well, yon know her father was a carpenter and we must draw a line." "Well, your grandfather was a cobbler. Where are you going to draw the line?" was the quick reply. A teacher, a dressmaker, a tewing girl, or any young woman engaged in making a living is not supposed to need a chaperon, bnt not so the society girl. For her to go anywhere withont a chaperon would be quite vulgar, as ruled by European stand ards, and to have a flunkey tagging after her evervwhere she goa is decidedly "stylish." Liveriea that were to demo cratically howled down in the early days of the Bepublic. grow more and more common in this day of snobbery. , A SAD BIDS TO IT. To the looker on, a ttndy of society ii vastly Interesting and rather disheartening at well. To tee women, with the power to do to mueh good in the world, devoted in stead to dretting. fear or fir timet; a day U I J .'.i3aW fi1 I ' -Mi i in I lasaWlf i iTTIaTMaffiilf "If " "Hi TaT" li . 'aL -& i , xiAstnTL BHh 15 the most extravagant style, and to decrying the efforts of others to get upon the same social plane with themselves is to confina the pessimist's claim that the Eepablio is.on the verge of a decline and fall that will give the future Gibbon a wider subject than the Boman Empire. Before the tragedy of her life began with the German war, Eugenie, the Empress of Prance, had introduced a rage for rich1 attire and luxurious display. She set the fashions for the world. Her pin money of $20,000 a month was spent every cent in dresses and jewels and laces that made the world stare. When the war with the Prussians which 'she is'said to have inspired through ignor ance and pious zeal was going on she it re ported to have dresled to suit the sentiment of the occasions, when she attended the councils of the Ministers. But for the defeat at Sedan sha was not prepared. The story is told that when the news came, after an all night session of the Ministry, it was decided that she shonld ride on horseback throneh 'the streets of Paris, and rouse to loyalty the people. Her costume was to be plain blacc, .with, the cross of the Legion of Honor pinned upon her breast But the project had to be abandoned because it was found that in all her 300 or 400 dresses she had not a plain black habit in which to appear. Poor Eugenie! Pamous only for her devo tion to dress, and the sorrows that have covered her magnificence with a pall I MOSET THAT IS "WASTED. When thehardships of the poor are eon sidered, it is not easy to see how men cam reconcile their consciences to spending 1500,000 upon a summer cottage. It is tola of Minister Beid that he was a bare-footed boy in Ohio, but by enterprise and push ha toiled up the steps into high place, and then by wisely fixing his affections on a girl worth a million, he now is enabled to put a veranda upon his summer home at an ex pense of $40,000. It is the common thing in novels to decry wealth and exalt poverty in matters of love. This fits in with youthful ideals of life. But the teaching of society impreses upon the young man that it is just as easy to fall in love with a girl who has money as with one who has none of that desirable attach ment to earthly bliss. The lesson of the so ciety girl most deeply impressed is that her game to play in life is to marry money not earn it Of the sorrow, bitternsss oi heart and despair of sonl behind this code the world hears but little." bnt it can see much in the faces of society's devotees. The genius of a capable general, the diplomacy of a prime minister, the tactics of a political leader are shown by women who waste upon the follies and trivial details of society the great gifts. they possess, and which might be so much more worthily employed. "Vanity of vanties saith the preacher, vanitv of vanities; all is vanity. What pro fit bath a man (or woman) of all his labor which he taketh under the sun?" Bessie Beastbxe. HOW TOLSTOI LIVES. Ha Believe In a Tegetnrlnn Diet and Car rlen Trmaerance la Extreme. Tolstoi is a vegetarian and says that the ideal physical lite is that of the Brahmins of India, says a correspondent of the New York World'. He believes in reducing one's wants to a minimum, and in producing, so far as possible, with one's own hands the wherewithal both to feed and clothe tho body. A state of society in which the con dition of one would never be such as to ex cite envy in another is the secret of true so cial happiness. When he took ma into his little koumiss establishment to give me a drink of the bev erage, he said with enthusiasm that with an acre of grass land and a conple of milch mares a man would possess ample property for his support The mares would live off the grass and the man could milk thea and live ofi koumiss. Temperance finds in the great novelist an enthusiastic supporter He neither drinks intoxicating beverages nor smokes, and he includes in the term manv other indulgences that the ordinary advocates of temperance consider a part of their creed. DISEASE DJ THH IEEE BATH. Irapare Water the Caaie of Opthalmy 1st Children Who Frequented It. Sew Tori fresi. The free bath at the foot of Harket street is responsible for the illness of several chil dren, according to the belief of Dr. Henry Freeman, who had been called to attend them. The doctor notified the Board of Health and the Department of Publia Works, and at the last place, yesterday, it was said that the bath would be closed at once until an examination of the water could be made by the Health Department The disease with which Dr. Freeman's patients were afflicted is ophtbalmyofa virulent nature. Each child, the physician found, also, was at all times in the summer an habitual attendant at the Harket street bath. Dr. Freeman himself made an ex amination of the water in the neighborhood of the batb, being suspicious that the foul water of the river was the cause of the com mon disease. Afterhis visit to the plaee ha was assured that his surmise was correct, he says, and he felt that it was his duty to bring the matter to the attention of the Board of Health. The water is nndouht edlr fonled by the sewers. I J fi-oew. If by the use of Wolff'sACMEBlacking Ton sava one pair of Bboaa a year, aaa botu at IS cent lasta thraa months. for how many yoara PlaffYTng wfll Qua -raar'a saTlng- la ahoa Leathar payT Jjk in Bnj, Faint and Ente rarmUkiag Storm ftr Ptt-Eon, fc nu. Sti-i Out a mw ruaaiTwa YamUb tnixaTAiri GusbandChinawars attha wiu. Stain Vi-iwabc snm anu. Stain tour Old BAs-crra time, WIU.8TAIN Baits Coach ahp IK-BON a rAiHT that e -a -b 7"y TL AM Stl 7MOIJ-.m "S ' l' " W0L77 & BAOTOLPH. PhUadeteW. aul&TTSSaT The Soft Glow efThi TEA ROSE Is Acauired by Ladles Who Us. MEDICATED POWDER CHILDREN feCSSM ECONOMY. SgBl rM!fy Cfiuni iwinfti TRY IT, m i 1 '1 1? f'iEm
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers