t: 6 20 THE V S - ' I . .-... - I ' ' ! B ' " I ! I I I f JpsT9(2l ii cli Li I tMJP rif i CLOTHES FORJHE OUTING, Tb Khuhhohk Cl ia All In I lie ImnliiRIIn A Family Unit Pie., lor l lie ( Nlmit Alwtni h CMnplf m fur JJump-MfK Tllilitpjii'i, iwMnim rw thu rmrATPw.j WANT Ilia attention of the may nf pioder. ale weans) the father who concludes lis could sffurd to take lili lamlly to the tea bore for lliroo or lour weeks' recreation, com fortably mod railroad, hotel, aud contingent eipenin, If It were not lor tlio filling of Imlf cldcoii or mora trunks with new i clothes enough to stock a ilientrlcal company; and of ilia motlicr who know ihowlll benwre companionable for those under the ground than those on its sur face by the time tbe contenti of said trunki hare been purchased, manufactured into fashionable (hope and picked for tbe start. To all tuch I want to say tills is altogether unnecessary work and worry; you nre need lessly but certainly marring your own pleas ure. Without the least intention of being slangy, I ave been there myseli, and if anyone bad a better time than I bad it was not the woman with better clothes; and, if anyone gaiued more flesh than I did, then her gain averaged more than a pound each day. Yon will need less than half the changes yon think you will. You will not care to join the dress parade once you are there, for the majority of this class are dressed decidedly above a whisper and are labeled "doubtful." A few pose, as was said oi Bean Brummcl, like dummies upon which to hang sbowy drygoods, and tbese few eem to exist only to see the many get away with all the fun and health. A. POSITIVE HINDRANCE. Believe me, nothing will interfere with your pleasure at the shore like good clothes I mean clothes you are afraid of spoiling. io iace seaside pleas ure by the forelock you must wear ser viceable clothes and be ready at a mo ment's notice. For this reason the dainty morning neg lige of past seasons is no longer com monly seen; it such gown make its ap pearance it stamps the wearer as one unacquainted with the ways ot the pres ent day seaside world. All fancy dressing is reserved for tbe "hop" or other evening diver sion, aud that is at your option. Tbis is an age of physical culture, and people of re finement go to re sorts to build good bodies,gnod physical powers which mean good mental powers as well: to train out of hollow chest, stooping form and contracted shoulders and not to vie with the Flash or Dash families for the honor of being the best dressed. Therefore that bewitching bit of breakfast finery, all .ribbons and laces, so distinctively fcm'iniuc and usually becoming, has been superseded by the plum, serviceable blue or grav flan nel for elderly women; and the gay outing cloth that rivals tbe Stars and Stripes in brilliantly contrasting colors for the more youthful. no place ron unsr.nvK. The most popular women at the shore, re gardless of ucc or gbnd looks, are those Who go in for all health-giving, mirth-provoking sports; and the sprinkling of gallants boon find them out and they ore always in de mand, whether for yachtinc, bathing, crab bing, tennis, the rollicking hay-ride, the dizzy toboggan or the childish'merry-go-round. Everything goes at the shore, and while you do not now believe you will in dulge iu all these sports, my word for it you will; and the more decorous ynu are at home the more you will enjoy play there. But about tbe clothes. As has been said. the evening costume is the only one which j seed cost you u moment's serious thought; ' and 11 yon are ol tne Kind that never intend to grow old; if you have kept yourselves companionable for your children, theti you have both given aud attended evening ai fairi and are more or less prrpared. Pater familias, your till dress suit, like water's sealskin and solitaire, is always in stvlcand ever ready; your business suit is for travel ing and general we.ir; you will not need one .not flannel shirt than" you would if you re mained home. If you are very dressy, aud I hope you are, you will need, at home or abroad, a couple of silk shirts and an Ox ford sash, which by the way is not a sash bnt a wide belt of folded silk made upon a foundation to fit your figure, which buckles behind, and which is not the senseless thing you upon first sound thiuk it, but a very ar tistic contrivance to take the place of the warmer vest. SOT TOO YOUKG FOB PATHEES. In adopting the "cash" yon are not in fringing upon the rights of your grown-up ton, tbe fashion being too com ortable to re strict bv age limits. You will need also a flannel blazer, for no one of either sex can exist comfortably at the shore without a blazer. This with a soft hat completes your outfit aud that of your son, who needs no more, no less. Boiled shirts are admissible onlv with tbe full dress suit. It is evident the'niale portion of the family is not going to encounter much additional expense lor the sojourn. Let me see if I can fit out the remaiuuer of the family as easily. Mother and daughter are each going to travel in their street suits. If they happen to be of mohair they are all the better for shedding cinders and dust, being never, cooler and the most approved; but it of srrge, cashmere or any other all wool material the good taste of the wearer will not be questioned. The same hats that were suitable for street wear with these suits will be equally so for travt-ling. Just here a word should be said tor tbat ornate evolu tion tbe once unassuming "duBter" or trav eling wrap. The product of this season bears little resemblance to the ill-fitting linen thing of the past in which we all looked like to many pieces of upholstered ffttk i NwmU llwlfwllll ISftW Mil Kb 'ino'cM'tH (uriiltiiie(l(itipui Io beep nut moth, These wrap nre new made ef molislr. nnimpcheii- khiiiip, or gior nH Silk lllltl lit" ffltliloiieil willi tucketl orhraldail yoke, It I b h slows, jjBlliered In At Ilia want n ilia batik ami II Ionia In front aie livid In pliwe by h prulty girdle or oxldirud (rno mmit, Willi nnenf iliesn wraps tlio drill waist may be carried In the atcliol unit aonol cr nno ol wmh material substi tuted. This com lort alona should be wfllclrnt rec ommendation for them, For the outing gown you will not want the pretty cotton gown of L'lngham, batlsta or other washable fabric, but tbo durable flannel or serge that will ktnnd foe or tbe .plashing of foam oupped waves, niue seems to be the most substan tial color, and an ,i g e distinctiou can be made be tween the dresses of mother and daughter, if thought necessary, in the trimming anu cut. One of the most comfortable as well as picturesque styles, and. worn by young and old at the shore, is the full round skirt circled with rows of braid in sharply con trasting colors. The waist is a blouse of washing silk in which the trimming color is repreented; over this the convenient and natty blazer made of the dress flaunel. For head' covering a cap or hat, preference being civen to the cap, and made 01 flannel and trimmed to correspond with the suit. It has been suggested tbat nn ingenious woman can take the, skirt of such suit and on tbat basis construct suits tor all sports iu which she may indulge. For instance In stead of tbe silk blouse she can sometimes wear a waistcoat with brass buttons nud under that a Hcnly shirt. Or, she may have an Eton jacket 01 white duck, though every thing that will promote the interest of the washtub is to be avoided if the expenses are to be kept well in band, and of course she will have a supply of neckwear equal to that ot her brother. If outing cloth is used for these suits tbe cost is trifling, since ibe best can now be had lor 12 cents per yard. This cloth comes in stripes as gay as awning canvas, yellow and black, blue and white, red and white in half inch stripes, and none too glaring i they seem at the water's side. MUST IIAYE A BLAZER. There is a polka dotted twilled flannel, more expensive, with white ground dotted in car colors. Frequently blazer, skirt and cap will be made ot this, and tbe blouse ot wash silk, either plain white or daintily striped. And again the skirt and shirt will be ol the dotted material and a striped blazer worn with the same. There is no getting along tbis season in either comfort or style without a blazer the plain white be ing the neatest variety, dps, blouses, shirts and blazers are made alike for boys snd girls. It seems to be a lad enjoyed by the young man and his summer girl to have these garments exact ly alike a sort of n label telling to whom they be long. One meets these couples at every turn, but a criticism never enters the mind; tbe girls do not aceiu mannish, nor the iiovs girl ish. The' chil dren impress oue as being on a bit ot a lark, that is ull, and as dash ing as the bil lows on the beach, which seem playing the same game. It is devoutly to be hoped these things will be laid upon tbe same shelf with tbe summer flirt ations at the sea son's close and not worn upon tbe streets at home, where they will be nearly as much out of place as a bathing suit. "With the outing costume is almost invari ably worn tbe tennis shoe in all it variety of colorings. The ruset leather is the most popular; canvas shoes with cork soles, are equally serviceable, comfortable, and any ot them ere au economical investment. MULTTJM IN PABTO. And now for tbe "piazza gown." The church or visiting dress at home supplies this requirement, and whether o lace, net, India or China silk, it is equally en regie. It it is this year's gown it is made with high shoulders, surplice waist, straight draperies. I. left over, good as new, from last season a very little brushing up will put it in barmony with this season's whims; or if the purchase remains to be made, mother will buy black lace, which can be made to do party service, worn with low lining and brightened with flowers; and daughter would better buy plain China silk which washes to look good as new and than which nothing looks more youtluul aud summery. Such gown can be iuade to do the service of several. For in stance, high neck, lull sleeves and full waist with broad sash, tor the piazza; plain kleeveless bodice, low-cut, for tbe hop; over this tulle or other gauzy material, upon which the changes can be rnng in different colors, pink, blue, canary, etc., and you hare as many different toilets as you have occasions. Black is still popular for evening wear- nnd not confined to matrons. A black net makes a pretty evening gown for tbe young, and certainly is a fine foil lor white skin and renders sun-burn less apparent. But I must not mention more that would be equally suitable lor these different oc casion or father will insist upon misunder ing, and say, as usual, it takes twice ai much for the women as for men. Of course everyone 'will bathe, and it it 111 Ife Hsf JlHKnE'fS ? 'nJSJ?! lllW&m lira economy in tbe ehd to own your suit These can be made at home, since neither fit nor finish it a consideration. There is nothing new in cut; flannel is still the sensible ma terial most worn, though there has been an attempt made to introduce cottou and silk suits, claiming tbat since they are much lighter in weight the wind carried them out from tbo person, etc., all of which Is un reasonable, and tbe truth is they cling the closer and are an abomination. Black, trimmed with white is one of the season's oddities in bathing suits. Batbing shoea nre of black, blue, scarlet or gray felt, low cut, without heels and trlnfmed with braid, And the children I Of course they must go, and ho one will enjoy it more Irom the baby who fills bis little pall with shells to the next In size who bury each other in the sand; and go tbevcan with exactly tbe same summer wardrobe with which they could remain comfortably, nnd keep puce with the neighbors' children, nt home. Bit wheto Is the necessary additional etpeiisa for clothes with which to take this tnuoh'tieeded, tea fenilvs eullng, or the utisd of extra work er worry? MecJi Tim FIRST IN FSAKOS, Mile, sinrnilsn IIUcmch Wlirt Wn Hefltnlly Oiit'f1eiidfliHlnwrlB I'aHi. New lerK Buim Juiifs lifts her flnt woman lAwypr, For enniu time there Imve bn fanmls doelnrs. of medicine, of felne, find of nrin, hut until within n (ew weaki no womnn Hurt under taken Io puns (lie pxamlnallon fur mlmiJnii 0 (he iraytlpa ol (lie law, KvPn Dili time Ilia aspirant ii tint a tfranpli woninii, hut Mile, Hurmlia IHIpeiao, a young and. pretty wiiin ii n belonging to one o the rloheit fiun lllciiif ltounianlitt She came to l'arls iV era! years ago, and in 1BB4 applied for dmlsihin to the study of the law. The council of prulcsinn dliouiied the application for lomo time, ami ante, gqrmfio JJtlaeito. at length, by a vote tar from unanimous, the permission was granted. The opposi tion which she encountered at the beginning was not, however, continued, for at each successive step in the course her advance ment has been unopposed, and finnlly she has been entirely successful in sustaining her final thesis. This was a volume of 506 pages, and iu it she treated "Oi the Legal Condition ol the Mother in French Law and in Roman Law." She gave in it no evi deace of a longing for woman suffrage, claiming for women no share in political rights, and not discussing at all the princi ples of the marital authority. She met suc cessiully the attempts of MM. Lyon-Caen, Colmet de Santerre, Garsonnet and Leon Michel to refute her arguments. Mile. Bilcesco is 23 years old and a native of Bucharest. She obtained there the de gree of Bachelor of Arts wheirlG years old, and of Bachelor of Science when 17. She is an excellent musician. She will return at once to Bucharest and apply for admission to the bar there, not in order to enter upon actual practice, but as a test to decide whether a woman can be a lawyer there or not MACHINERY'S WONDEB-WOBK. Beautiful Ornaments for Ladies' Dresses Dlado Without a Fincer Toacb. It is very curious to an outsider to watch the oncrations of a braidiug machine. In one factory there are some ten different kinds of machines kept in operation. Tbe most enrious of all is a machine whose special domain is the so-called "applique" work. It performs three tasks at one and the same time. When properly adjusted a tiny knife cuts out, according to the prett design intended, the figures from the upper layer of cloth, while simultaneously the machine sews these figures on to the laver of cloth underneath the upper layer "being generally of medium thickness, while the lower one is cloth oi the thickest, warmest and most expensive kind, such us is suitablo lor a lady's cloak. The effect thus obtained artistic arabesques, beautifully curving lines, forming an intlcate yet pleasing pat tern, lyiug on tbe cloth underneath, is very oretty indeed. The beading machine, by mcani of whioh those most elegant ornaments on a woman's dress, those glistening arabesques of bead intr, are put on, is another triumph of me ckunioal geniui. The same may bo said of tbe leather-edge machine, which does the eo called "sunbeam" and "rainbow", work, embroidering tbe shades, which are grad ually toned down; or tbe cornelly machine, which does tbe cording, and still more so of the soutache machine, which Joes the simplest and yet of one of the molt effective styles of embroidery. BETXEB FOBEOO MEAT. Danger of Poisoning In iba Hot Weather oi This Climate. Boston Herald.) Considering tbe scarcity of ice, also tbe exoessive meat eating habit of our people, alimentary troubles will doubtless be more than usually prevalent during tbe present summer. Meat spoils very quickly in this climate in hot weather, and polsous aro then developed in it which cause vomiting and purging. Some people are more susceptible to these poisons than others. Those wno cannot afford to keep their ice chests well filled should buy fresh meats only in small quantities, to be eaten at once. A more economical and safer plan is to fore go meats entirely during tne very hot weather, and depend upon fruits and veg etables. The vegetarian invariably suffers less discomfort and eujoys infinitely better health during the heated term than does the meat eater. Dlnnar Table Decorations. Boston Herald. If you desire to be truly stylish in the decorations of a dinner table, eschew porce lains and use only antique silver and gold plate. Massive bowls and vessels of these metals, filled with roses and orchids, are tbe latest cry In high circles where family silver abounds. If you haven't auyi antique plate why, go and buysomel and remem ber the Romans. A WATCHFUL WATEEB'S WOE. He Attend! to a Millionaire's Every Want Only to be Beaten Out of His Tip. Mew Tort; World. I shall never forget sitting at the same ta ble with a millionaire's family at a Sara toga hotel and watching, with a good deal of interest, tbe enthusiastic, attention ac corded them by the head waiter and two of his satellites. The lamily leit at the end of three weeks. The final dinner came and tbe waiter was, If possible, more attentive than ever. At the end of the dinner the millionaire committed the barbarism of sending the waiter specially after a pitcher of ice water. While the devoted attendant was away the millionaire and his family left the dining room, and when the waiter returned there was not even the shadow of a buzzard dollar resting on the table cloth. Tbe empty table and the disappointed waiter; with all his dig appointment depicted in hla ebony counte nance, made up a picture that night wor thily be rtprodnced on canvas. PITTSBURG- DISPATCH, BONE AND MUSCLE Are Better Indications of Character Than Cranial Damps. BIG BONES CALlFOlt. INTEGRITY. Large Langs Mean Driving Power and Short Muscles Vitality. EXAMPLES AMONG PK0M1NENT MEN fwntTKHyon tita ctatfAtcii. The readers of these letters are already aware of the work of Mrs, Mary O. Stanton, of Urtllforiilti, In the study of physiognomy, not merely of facial traits, but rather of physique reading. The subject la ttt nklu to the culture ef beauty that one leaks with Iu ternt far lurlher fessroli In the same line, The bulky volumes before we Is as solid a pleee of literature I hasten to add as enter tsliilna aliO'-as olteu oomes Irom the pen of woman, It lies been written hi books ought lobe with years of patient Ineiihstlon of thought, observation and lelmirely reudliiir, then willi slots study and eondsiuatlon into Its. pretoiit fnrin, It will nottletrAet from llielnteientoftlie hook to know )mw tliouulilfiilly ewy step in ll (lerfornmnoe wns taken. Wlin, her children frown and settled In 110, oomlort anil leisure paved tlie way (or the coin, pletinn of her ohrlilied prnjnot, the writer prepared in Intra lnr mind as Iron irnm other oaro as It Is possible for mortal to be, Hniuricceiiliig was glvon up and a amy sdlte fitted In Oakland for herself and hus band, tlm native, witty, money-making pub lisher of the Arponaut. Her study was tlio control uttriieiloii, where her favfirllo flowers, her pictures and her violin made cheerful companions, brightening the hours of toll, Tlio author was so anxious to leave her tnlnd free of every consliluration that sho made her will, and gave away her homo plants down to the last hanging basket, because thoy would require time sho could not spare. HAUL) BYBTKUATIO WORK. In that study for six to eight hours a day this woman wrote and delved Into books, like a mathematician lost In his problems, coming out at lunch time ready for the long, lovely drives alter her own last trotter, in company with some favored visitor, wbllo her large circle of friends were always de vising gay evenings lor ner reiresnment. Four vears of Buch study ended in the yeur away "from home In Philadelpala alone, with her nearest and dearest across tbe con tinent Irom ber, fugging at the dreary task of superintending the publication of her book. The year stretched into IB months, and they meant work, strict regimen, going to bed nt 9 and getting up at 6, and setting aside all amusement not demanded to keep the nervous machine in repair. That is how men and women have to worlrto accomplish anything. Work that lives is not done by sniitches with the tips of the fingers. Neither can such work be read in the sweep of one's eyelashes, like a summer novel. But so much appears novel and in teresting to tbe student of human nature that I cannot forbear picking a few of the garnets out of the quartz, leaving professed reviewers to quarry the book at leisflre. natuee'sbab sinisteb. Taking the first sentence of interest opened to we learn that the muscular apparatus is built on tbe plan of perfect curves, and in its normal state will produce curves In every outlino and movement. But vitiated and ignorant parentage brings orth perverted offspring, and hence comes what tbe author calls the Scalene Principle or law of the skew. Those who are bodily and morally defective show obliquity ot vision, angu larity oi the head which should be round ing, tbe slanting of the foot or the skew of the eye, catlike, crooked features and awk ward movements. These are the true illegitimates of nature, having upon their escutcheon, the face, the bar sinister. These signs are observed in congenital criminals, liars, sneak thieves and conddence operators and those partak ing of their traits. The law of their being is oblique, askew, slanting like tbe scalene triangle, with all sides and angles uneven. Such beings demand our largest philosophy, justice and love, and like tbe Arabian philosopher, wo should pray, "0 God be good to the wicked (defective), lor Thou hast been sufficiently Kind to the good in making them such. C1IABACTEB TOLD BY THYSIOAI, OBSIS. Straightncss and squareness our author finds inherent properties of bone; true curv ing, of musole. If the bone has not mineral mutter enough to make it straight and firm, the character also suffers through a de ficiency of Integrity. If the musclo Is rigid and docs not curve properly and easily, then we find excess of will or stupidity. If it curves impoifectly, we find awkwardness ot motion and iuubility to execute mechani cal movements with precision, dexterity and accuracy, observed in the lecblo minded and criminals. When tbe muscles are too soft and flexible and tbe bones too small and soft, abounding In animal mat ter, the subject is apt to be too flexible, too yielding for morality, and suffers from a want of decision and rectitude. Hence has arisen the vague, instlnctivs idea that a man too supple in his move ments Id dangerous. Iu many cases the pcrvcrseuess ot nature docs not assume criminal or idiotlo proportions, but simply tends to waywardness and wilfulness, to cranky and inapt methods of working, walk ing, etc. In some it ia indicated by poor attempts at works ot art, in hoarse, dis cordant and shrill vocalization, and various social and commercial irregularities, A wise curm. A scientific knowledge of man is the first step to the regeneration of the race, for which positive knowlege of the human face and body is essential. This demands that other (actors than "blind love" be brought into marriage. In this sacred relation there should he no blindness. Cupid should be all eyes. Those with short and round muscles have relatively broad and short figures with thick chests, broad shoulders, the joints small and well covered, tbe fingers Upering and nails oval, the feet short with hizh instep, the forehead broad and rounding outwardly at the sides. The face U round or oval, cheeks lull, eyes large and lull, chin often dimpled, hands and leet small, limbs round and taner.' ing. The predominance of the vital organs gives great strength, love of eating and drinking, love of the opposite sex and fond ness tor social enjoyments, athletics, music, dancing, etc. This type is inclined to com merce. The late James Fisk was a good specimen of the class. Those with a good brain in combination will show military capacity like Napoleon I., who was of this build. Where the muscles are or a long and thin type the character has less of the aggressive and more of tbe sentimental cast. The face is ratber long and the nose higher; the eye, though lull, not so oonvex as in tbe other. Affectloual and intuitional traits are well developed, yet love exhibits itself in a more refined manner. Mentally this build will have caoacity'lor some form of art, enjoy domestic ties and sincere friendship. THE EYES AND THE CHABACTEB. The many and varied expressions of the human face, we read, are due to a great number of muscles, the lace having $6 pairs and tbe body more than 00. The eye con tains more muscles, more active ones and those which express more thought than any other part of tbe body; hence the eye is tbe facial exponent of the muscular system. Tne larger, more convex and deeper colored the eye the greater the strength oi the muscular system. Small or depressed eyes, with tunken orbits, always denote less muscular power than large, full ones, and pale eyes express less vigor than well colored ones. All eminent artist, singers, actors, musi cians and sculptors aie endowed with fine quality of muscle and hare large, bright eyes. In (itistlo work, ectlng, painting unci SUNDAY, JULY 13, aculptu'retbe muscles mutt be in excess to take command of the bones; hence nearly all artists are lithe and elastic like muscle itself. Size of muscle is not the only indi cation of power, lor racehorses are trained with a view of making' them more dense and firm to improve their quality. Magnetism Is a orce belonging exclusively to tbe mus cular system. Many highly emotional, re ligious persons have a fine quality 'of muscle, but it doea not follow they nre moral also. Emotion in excess is opposed to morality. HOW TO ENLAHQE THE EYES, Is there not a hint in the foregoing for those who deslro to enlarge the eyes7 Cul tivation ot the mu8oularsrstem by activity, by Bteady exercise, combined with nrt'stlo training, will seldom fall to waken the sleepy, itulgnludiiiit ece, open It, endue its gnxe with hie and tea'oh it play of expres sion, The workluif eye is large; that of the dreAmer, tlm Indifferent, Is small and sunken. As physical lunations have evolved Intelllgenoe has Increased. A oreitture with wlugs Is hi ore intelligent than a jellyfish. Those who have a large ami strong bony system are more llriii, persevering nnd honest than iliote with smaller and weiiksr ones. The more fluid lime dlMnlved in the hloud, wlih'h goes to make un the more solid oart of tlie organs, iusIi as the heart, lungs, kid nsya, eio., the more Intfgrily and stiengtli these organs poees, Vid In c.waa js not lionesl, whether wa find it In mini or beast. It Is negative ami tanks rtsistauee. MiisqI? hi excess Isehaiigpitblunuri slii ting, while bono l stilted to mrslinnlunl and lelentlflo pursuits whloli pull for physlpal oontrol and a good, iriie 170, in oyeiy agi and pnunlry the mast reliable, honest mid upright nun are nsaulma (s mechanics. , Hnlentlsts, (on, must possess a good share nf Integrity of bono, Washington, Andrew laokaiiii, Lincoln, Iaither, Nawtnn, Hum boldt, Uuvler, Darwin. David Iilvlntono, Meblg, all had large, bony development, now uaiti'ur, Mittr aids iiuitvr. Tho greatest nnd most ttielul men and women havn been tliomi with tho bono and bruin systems dominant. Tall, lean, square, bony people are noted for their usefulness, u unci dullness, Integrity and generally for meuhunlcul ability. The large develop ment of bone showa that tho fluid circula tion has 1I0110 Its primary work in a thorough manner, Excess nf bone makes one liable to nhronlo rheumntira, enlarge ment of the joints and grmiular defenera tion. Tho remedy for excessive develop ment of bono Is to drink wnter purified Irom nil traces of lime, remain in the shade as muoh as possible, to study more, eat less larluaccous food ana adopt the diet of the carnlverous animals, whose bones nre smaller than those of the grain eaters. The vegetative svstem Is tho pulpy, fleshy sort Indolent, selfish. Men 01 talent o ten have a large degree of the vegetutlve system, but inherit with It a large bruin and good bons and mucles. Oi this class were Hume and Gibbon, tbo historians. Dumas and Samuel Johnson, and Bobert Ingersoll is a resent representative of the combination, y the great store ot vitality the vegetative system yields, such men are able to perform immense ment.il labor. Those lacking in the right proportion of this system suffer from nervousness, sleeplessness, dyspepsia ana consumption. THE BUOYANT SYSTEM. The thoracic system, with large chest, wide nostrils, lull throat and comparatively small brain and abdomen, shows that tbe aeration of the blood is performed on a large scale, inducing buoyancy of spirits, quick ness and clearness of apprehension, ambi tion, hope and progressive mentality. Pioneers, orators and aggressive people in thought and action, tho world over, will be found in this class. The? make cheerful and safe companions, aro hiirh-minded as a rule, and ambitious of social prominence and distinction. Thomas H. Benton was of this type, and so is Uhauncey Depew. Such persons are apt to be too energetic, and con sume the vital forces by undue use. The diseases which assail this system are acute and inflammatory, lite pneumonia, cerebral and pulmonary consumption and runture of the heart. " Those who have a feeble development of the thorax should live in hilly regions. Naturalists tell us that all the high flying birds have larger lungs than those which remain in marshes and fly low. All races of man and animals inhabiting mountainous regions have larger thoracic systems than those on the plains. Persons with small or weak lungs find it advantageous to breathe the air 01 the bills, because it induces activity of the lungs and heart, and this causes a demand for more blood. The appetite under this stimulus calls for more lood, and the entire system is invigorated by the improved quantity and quality nf the nir; and as use increases ca pacity, persons inheriting weak lungs have been almost renewed by early change from low to higher altitudes. Pure water and pure air nre tbe first necessities of life, and must be obtained if a fine development of the system is desired. SimtLEY Dabe. AMERICA'S YOUNG MEK. Oao of Uiid atr I K'pllna's Observation! While Miuollng Over America. "The young men of America," says Rudyard Kipling in a London iuterviow for the New York World, "rejoice in tbe days of their youth. They gamble, yacht-race, enjoy prize fights and cock fights, the one openly, the other in secret; they establish luxurious clubs; tbey break themselves over horseflesh and other things, and they are in stant in quarrel. At 20 they are experi enced in imsiu ess; embark on vast enter prises; take partners as experienced as them selves, and go to pieces with as much splen dor ns their neighbors. '(Incidentally I may mention that nine American youths out of ten' arc heavily handicapped by tbe nbnornal weaknes ol tbelr beads. This Is supposed to be due to a nervotn and highly strung organization, and in Calilcrnia, at least, the brilliant dry ness ol the air lends color to the supposi tion. Phlegmatio and spiritual, however, they manage to get flushed, affable and drunk on astonishingly smnll quantities of liquor. "The American nation gets drunk by easy stages. A man takes a nip here aud a nip there in the morning until, by luncheon time, while not realiv drunk, he is in a con. dition that no business man ought to be until after dinner. I don't object to almost continuous beer-drinking as we see it in America. A man will die of dropsy rather than drunkenness it he drinks too much beer. But the American habit of taking mixed drinks at all hours of the day is a very bad one. In your climate a man can keep it up for a long time, till he suddenly drops ofil" THE STUDY OP HGHTHIHG. Experiment! to Determine tbe Length of the Flnh nnd Its Power. Illustrated American. Tbe Meteorological Society of Berlin has made arrangements to take simultaneous photographs offlashes of lightning at widely separated stations during the summer. If tbe plan proves successful, it is hoped to ob tain some idea of tbe speoial and dimen sional relations of the flash. It may be recalled here that the late M de la Eue made some interesting calcula tions in regard to tbe force exerted by a lightning flash. With tbe battery be used be round that a potential of 9,700 volts was needed to prodnce a discharge through one centimeter, and on this basis the electro motive force requisite to produce a flush of lightning one mile in lent th at the ordinary pressure would be 1,480,570,000 volts. Alirara Find Her nt Home. Macon Telegraph. Miss Amanda Anderson, of the East Macon district, Go., is 60 vears old and is of perfectly sound mind, being even more than usually bright The longest journey she has ever made was Irom the place where she was born t" the place where sheuow re side1:, a distance of : mile and .1 !mlr. She lives within three miles of the East Tennes see, Virginia and Georgia Eailroad, and yet she has never seen a train of cars. Among the many other things which she has yet to see for the first time are a store house or a building built of brick. 1890. ART IN DECQJRATI6N. Women Dave Kot Yet Learned to Ap preciate tbe Broad Field. LOVE IN THE BUSINESS WORLD. Genuine Gobelin Tapestry is a Bit Scarcer Than lien's Teeth, APPLIQUE WORKED 0UETA1NS AGAIN fwiumir ton -rua titirATOtf. There it i little womaa named Kennedy whs keeps a decorative shop lu Mayfalr, London, add eujoyi tlie distinction of hay QJUULAm lag done eonsldara- uie worn mr me i'rlnoessef Wales. Blie started four years ago, and her sueeesi so eoeoiir J ethers of her eex to undertake the sains sort si work that now the woman deooratsr is quite common In Ureatllrllalu. Miss Kaiiimdy's show rooms attracted wide attention some time ago as "a glory In yellow," and, In deed, tu her vigorous and startling use of this oolor wo attribute tho treiialod fashion into whloli yellow as an Interior dsonratlyo oolor has now sprung, I refer to MlsslCeu- A PIECE OP FtfKNITTTBE nedy simply to illustrate the possibilities which are within a woman's reach. "We hear every day in the week "what fields of labor can a woman occupy ?" and one can very well answer it by the inquiry "what are they willing to occupy practically, earnestly and in a business-like way ?" In many cities decorative art rooms, in a quasi-commercial way, flourish on the un certain outskirts of tbe upholstery trade; bnt tbe workers hesitate over the palette and brash, and gingerly decorate panels and table scarfs in cither fear or scorn of more serious work. There is no one who can more strongly enlist my sympathies than the working woman, for the oppositiou to her is more than mere surface indiffer ence, bnt I must say that usually the ob stacles to ber progress are those of her own making. "I don't wish a woman to ad vance in my office," said a well-known decorator. "I admit I don't assist them to get up. "Why should I? Every girl lever employed and helped to get along to a position of responsibility has come t'p smiling at some timo or other, generally when she is just becoming valuable to me, and told ber dellghtiul story 01 Charlie's proposal and the approaching marriage. ITa., tt .Viam rrttrA. niA nliAiif ttirnn ilnvl1 notico and then quit; and whether or not j I'm left in the lurch doesn't seem to ever enter their love-muddled heads. Unless , a woman is past the marrying age she works simply with mechanical Indifference, await ing inevitable marriage to relieve her of tho drudgerv." "This is all true enough," I respond, "but the man is no more faithful. She leaves you for a husband, and all yon have taught her is gladly forgotten. But he leaves you at first offer of higher wazes, and what voa have taught him he tafees to a rival." This ia the argument that day after day opposes the labor of women, and so many a woman, dejected and depressed, relinquishes in her overwhelming discouragement ber every ambition, and takes to any drudgery that presents itself. Now nnd then some indomitable character crops up and comes dauntlessly to tbe front, and when she does every one's hat should be thrown high up, for the barriers she has overleaped are a legion. , . Tbe great wonder to roe Is that women with good taste do not extensively cultivate the decorative field as a business. Why does the average woman go into millinery, dressmaking, typewriting and music teach ine? You say she has a knack lor that sort of thine. No, no, that's not it nt all. The reason "Is simpty.that frequent rebuffs have beaten down and discouraged any attempt to get out of those dictated paths of woman s usefulness. I say to every woman in the United States, if you have the taste, thera is room in the upholstery trade lor you. It will take study to fit you to the proper ap preciation t.f the various styles and epochs of design and furnishing, but good taste after all is the grand desideratum and must in the long run tell. The decorative art (department of the biggest drygoods store in America is in charge o." a woman. Those wonderful Vanderbilt and Mills por tieres, we heard so much about six or seven years ago, were by a woman Virginia Brush. A Miss Bell, of Buffalo, was one of the cleverest window dressers in America. She went to England a year ago and now she has charge of a big establishment and her work is making her famous. Mrs. Cory, of New York, undertook to establish a school of design ten years ago. Prejudice shut up ber doors three times; but she per severed and to-day she has the satisfaction of having placed 0 or 60 pupils in the de sign rooms ol the leading mills of this coun try. Z could mention a dozen such cases. $M- ft'fnih , 'i 4f- s i( ,- "-V r A SUBSTITUTE FOB CTTETAIN POLES. The other day in company with a lady I passed a decorative show window. It was beautifully arranged and I called my com panion's attention to its charming appear ance. "Pshaw," said she, "plenty of girls conld do as well as that" "I've uo donbt of it," I replied, "but why don't they look around forth.it sort of work"? Tbe man that directs the arrangement of the goods there gets $40 a week, princi pally for his good taste. A woman's life is made up of day and nizht dreams nn dress draperies and tbelr garniture. The same skill which loops a skirt could drape a por tiere, and as there are thousands who aro willing to pav for this skill It would seem as though there is plenty of room for interior home dressers nnd drapers. There are two such place in Chicago, and one in Unston. Men preside over both of them, although women could do just as well. They give hints and suggestions merely for the use of materials already in hands or to be purehased professional advisers, arehl tests, so to speak, In In tor lor decoration, I'ope'e famous aphorism that "fools nub In where angels fear to treail" finds llltu tratisii in the frequent announcements Hist this or that person has Juit ptirnhastd Gobelin tapestry. Only yesterday-1 read in a Iheatrloal paper that ''rhihotte de I;slbo lias been engaged to make 000 eet ol genuine tlnbelln tapeslr- lor tlm enrniialinn soena In "I'rlnea nnd inujwr." '4'ho assertion is simply laughable, and yet Intelligent so. eletyfs hurlqud every day by Just mall statements! If ynu hliavonll you li"ar, there Is hardly a loan exhibition that hasn't number of QoIibIIii mpesirles, no oollaotor who hasn't Ilia flussi nnd iw pretentious rusldmiae that will not lisva some room well bung with them. The ubllnie absurdity of half Hint Is heard and read of Onhollu work Is nf oourso unappreciated by tbu venernl tiublle, so a wont or two on what those tniii'Striss really are will Interest ynu. The fJobelln works wore established In ifranoo aboutiliO yours ago by Jean Gobelin, FOB THE HALLWAY. and acquired so great a reputation that the French Government secured control of them, and from that day to this has conducted them for private purposes. The subjects were all desiened by the most famous artists of the day Bouchor, La Pautre, "Watteau, Audran, Oudryand men of that stamp; and some idea of the workmanship may be bad when I tell you the weaving is all bv hand and so fine that it frequently costs ?J0O a square foot. The Government invariably reserves all the work, without exception, for state guts, xne pieces are under no cir cumstances sold, and can be only "picked up" now and then from the wrecked house holds of some broken down member of tbe nobility, or family whose ancestors have been honored by their possession, and in such cases there are always a hundred open purses awaiting it. Finding a Gobelin is like finding a Van Dyke, Knbens or Rembrandt. Tbey exist to be sure, but I have known men of means to search yars and years for a piece and then give up pursuit in despair. I know of two pieces by Boucher which sold about six months ago, one for $15,000, and the other for $20,000. I know of two other pieces used lor sola backs, for which A. C. McDonald, of Montreal, has refused a trifle less than 50,000. So you see that when we hear ol Mrs. Thompson hanging her walls with Gobelin tapestries we are a trifle in credulous. Applique worked curtains are coming into fashion again, and the forms of an plique are very varied. , Not only is gimp used, interlaced cord work lor top frieze or fringes for dadoes, but figures, in sonifc cases of life size. I saw the other day a jute velours curtain iu pistnehe or deadish green upon which was appliqued on one ide a finely embroidered reproduction of a French soldier of the sixteenth century, with spear upright and shield and armor, and all heavily wrought in silver. The effect was very strong. Another odd thing was an oak colnred velours with immense bronsed hinges appljqued on one side. Tbese appliques are frequently in reproduction of bits 01 old tapestries, armorial designs, escutcheons and chimerical figures and as the arrange ment is left entirely to the taste of a decora tor the variety is simply endless. A rather dignified and certainly a most comfortable hall rest is lurnisbed with au overhead receptacle for bric-a-brac It is a cordial piece of furni ture for the hallway, always maeing it appear inviting and homelike. In France, in the early part of 1700, it was a familiar piece of household furniture. It can oe easily made, and cheaply, too. I saw one the other day that cost just 58. It was nothing more or less than a discarded pew in an old church, the top being added by a carpenter. A clever way of avoiding the every-day curtain pole which becomes monotonous by the frequency of its use is by using an up right spe.ir on one side of a door, crossing it at the top by another, the two heads thus coming in close proximity. Instead of nsing curtain rings, a cord lacing is utiliz;d. C. It. Clifford. A CABVED IVOEY FAD. Unique Pieces Collected by Grorgo Vander bilt Deamle In Oleersebnnmi. One of the fads of George Vanderbilt is the collection of ivory carvings. He is the owner ol many pieces ol high artistic qual ity, mostly ol Eorope-in origin. Among his gems is the bnst of Bembrandt, carved by Fritz Kaldcnberg, tbe son of the meer schaum pipe manufacturer, and which is considered the finest ivory carving ever made in America. It cost Mr. Vanderbilt $3,600. Next to ivories Mr. Vanderbilt is a diligent collector of meerschaums; He has an extensive cabinet of fine pipes and smokes cigarettes altogether. CLARA BELLE'S CHAT, A Frelly Young Lady Who Makes a Good Living From Her Taste. PAT LADIES ON THE DEFENSIVE. The Old PrpjniHca Against Women Bnvlnjr Newspapers h Over. 6CENE8 ON THE HUDEKN STEEET CAB fconmiroKDSxca or Tim cisiMTctt.i New Youk, July 13. II. peering, prying woman may learn frdiu what Jam gc Intf to wrlt that labor ami 1oy8IIiim are not liin-puffttiU even In swelldom, J5irryboilr knows iMiranrl, who Is now In tfswport, to hi one of llm best ilrsiei women In thi pun n (ry, final) per'eotly eiqulslle taste as aha displays Is osrtalnly not equaled In New York, On the prom enade, at the races, at luncheon parties or at tho theaters Mar. garet displays a gown that Is a marvel of dainty appropriateness, and every detail of horaccoutermciits, from tho little bonnet, fastened with a few diamonds here and there, to the tip of her little shoo, has a character and charm that other woman strive In vain to equal. And this Margaret, a pet of society, earns her own llvlmj, being oonipelled to do so owing to tho fact that sho has no men In her family to work for ber and bus an In vulld mother to support, llelng devoid of any marked talent other than her taste in dress, Margaret looked about her soon after her father died to see what she could do to turn an honest penny. She could not bring herself to become a dressmaker, as that would expel her from the society she had always moved in. Sbe talked tho matter up with some ot ber friends. One of them said: BEALIZISO MOM HER TASTE. "I have it. Every woman tbat knows you envies you your lovely gowns. You spend half as much as any girl among ua and yet you are the queen at all times. Now, why don't ynu sell your taste to us? That is, you could go shopping with us and bnyour materials. Go to our dressmakers, and give orders about dresses, just as you would for yourself. The s.ime about our bonnets. Iu this way you could build up a good commission business and no one will think a bit the lesi 01 yon for it." This was the beginning of Margaret's business career. Gradually the venture took shape and now tbe stylish and worthy girl is tbe agent lor SO 01 the best-dressed women in New York. She buys everything they wear and designs their gowns herself, being quite clever with water colors. Her income is sufficient to enable ber to live in luxury and she is still a member of her old society. Everybody is satisfied with what Margaret does 'for them, but all agree that sbe herself still remains tbe most perfectly dressed woman in tbe world. That is be cause she has an air that is a part of her taste and that cannot be transferred for any sum of money to anyone else. Margaret is now investing in real estate, and will un doubtedly be a ricn woman before many years have gone by. TAT LADIES OX THEUt Bf CWITT. The other day a lady, whoseroIhty keeps pace with her increasing avoirdupois, en tered a Broadway car at Forty-second street and took the only vacant seat. Looking about she saw tbat her fellow passengers were all women, and inrtber. tbat she weighing in summer costume 170 was the smallest woman among them. Her spirits rose at once, and, as she noted the flushed cheeks, double chins and pudgy hands, she felt iu contrast as buoyant and frolicsome as a fairy. The day was hot, and all looked uncomfortable. Presently two well-dressed men entered the cur and betook themselves to the straps, mopping their faces with handkerchiefs and sighing overthe weather. Ono of them said, under his breath: "Is this a dime mu seum, Dick?"and both looked the passengers overwithasmile. Up jumped the jolly lady and answered: "No, sir, we are nut a dime museum, but if you are a freak on the way to one, take my scat." Tho man begged pardon, and bis com panion burst into a hearty laugh, while tho jolly woman made a signal, which acted on me ouicr wuuien iifco an ciectria current, for every one of them rose and tollowed her ia a solid 11b, too solid line out to tbo street. It was better than a dime museum show; In fact, was awfully funny. There they stood on the pavement hot, perspiring and bewildered, but with a profound notion that they had deended the dignity of fat women, even at tbo cost of an extra car fare. Then the jolly woman marched them round tho corner, treated them to soda water and palm-leaf fans, and all were happy. TroMEir nuYisro newspapebs. Twenty years ago a lady who bought a newspaper in a horse car would.huve at tracted tbe attention ofevery passenger. The men would have stared and tbe women would have smiled. "Looking for a per sonal," would have been whispered on one side. "Wants a situation," on another. "What does a woman want to buy a news paper for? Why doesn't she wait until she gets home?" would have been growled out by some grumpy old dyspeptic with bile enough for ten men. "Why doesn't she go home and ask ber husband?" would have been asked by some matronly woman. Now all is changed. All sorts of ns bay a paper in a horse car with tbe nonchalance of the man about town, and in so doing they olten delight me by their generosity as they wave away the pennies in change with a daintily gloved band and a pleas.int smile tbat must make the newsboy teel tbecocklea ot bis beart smoothed out in a mighty pleasant way. Why don't the ladies buy newspapers more than they do? "News papers, especially when iresbly printed, soil the gloves," say these d.iintv creatures. But not if carelully handled. No; tbe real objection is that if a lady buys a newspaper in a horso car, or on the railroad, she can't carry it with her as a man does can't fold it np aud jam it into bis pocket as he does. It is too bad, for a newspaper is a great conservator 0, morals. It effectually shuts out the impertinent stare and shields a lady from offensive attentions. Clara. Belle. A CHINESE BAUK NOTE. It Was Issued 300 Years Before Europe KnfW Whnt Paper Money VFa. Newcastle Cnrontcle. Within the last few days the trustees of the British Museum have become possessed of a Chinese bank note, which was issued from the Imperial mint just 300 years be fore the circulation of the first paper money in Europe. Whatever doubts may attach to the priority of certain other inventions claimed by the Chinese, it is impossible to deny that they were acquainted with the art ot printing many centuries before tho days or Gutenberg. According to native records, the art ot printing was in use in China in 93 A. D., but it doea not appear to have been employed in the prep iration of bank notes until tbe ninth century. From tbat date notes were periodically issued until the middle, of the filteentn century, when the practice fell into disuse, and was only revived 10 or 0 years ago. missis Kyggiy''
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers