f' 20 . THE PITTSBTJKG Kl . . 1 B' lriX-rr-7 - i 5fel AIRY DRESS FABRICS. Kothlne It SMrictlr Fashionable This Snm mrr Unless it la Coal and Comfortable Starch and Comfort Are Not Related to Each Other Color Combinations. fWBirTEX FOB Till DISPATCH.! The only thing -re want to know about clothing is how to pet along with as little as possible this weather, says some one who voices the general sentiment. Keeping cool is a study, but with grass linen underwear, corsets which are a strap of linen with puff ings of gauze and the lightest of lawn and Shanghai silk above, one finds the nineties endurable in the shade. Men complain of their close apparel, flannel and silk being oppressire for city wear. Iiisle thread undergarments of thread eo smooth and cool it feels like linen, and shirts of linen lawn with cuffs of two ply linen only, and coats of Japanese crape cot- For Oarden Farliei. ton in white or ecru, with scant stripes of crimson and sky blue, or terra cotta and verdigris, or black and white, carry out the fullest idea of coolness. No vest is worn by young men even in shops and business offices, the wide folds of silk or thin wool buckled around the waist being too comfort able to exchange for starched duck. Starch in Mitnmer is inimical to coolness and rare artistic unconventional souls are taking to the lawn and cambric ties which look so picturesque when Mr. Mansfield wears them on the stage. If women don't assist this in novation Dy approval and compliment "they deserve less at the hands of the other sex than they think. 5ioi:e amiable if comfortable. But it is safe saying that lor all but formal dress, the shirt front of single linen which needs the least starch in the world and the lull cool tie of India muslin in lieu of a collar is the artistic style, and if the trousers for yachting and camping or the seaside recall pajama, or suggest that the male half of creation has taken to wear ing the divided skirt, what cannot be tolerated, nay encouraged for the sake of coolness when people are so much more amiable for being comfortable. All the new ideas in dress are airr as possible. The figured India and French silks are made with plain gathered skirts, trimmed with two broad insertions of black lace above the wide hem. Or the new j French fashion is adopted of six or eight three-inch ribbons in contrast to the dress " carried down the front and sides, a quarter of a yard apart, and knotted in a square bow with four short loops and two long ones, known as the windmill bow, because it re calls the rosette effect of flyers and sails, ltibbon gowns are very airy, of wide black lace insertion, with ovals "through which narrow ribbon is threaded, and these lengths are set together by wider ribbon of the same or contrasting color, the whole mounted on a foundation of silk. Very pretty jackets and lace skirts are made of this insertion striped with fine ribbon, and are inexpensive, the lace five inches wide, of firm quality and selling at 25 cents a yard, with eyelets for five and seven lines of the narrowest ribbon. PATTERNS AITD CREPES. Passee black lace can be put to good use if the pattern will allow of threading bright ribbons through it or it they can be ap pliqued to follow a scroll in the desicn or in iestoons, key pattern or Vandykes. The best colors for this purpose are moss and veridi gris green, bright electric blue, gobelin or old pink and deep red together. Printed foulards in silk and the fine soft cotton foulard-, which are even prettier and iar more lasting in beauty, are the choice for garden paity gowns. A rich white India silk printed with grass sprays and seeds in black is trimmed with black lnce and silver and jet Vandykes in exquisite effect, the V shaped neck filled with folds of white silk muslin, with necklet and cuff bracelets of jet and silver beading two inches wide, con fining the chemisette and sleeves. These necklets are much fancied and add a pretty effect to simple dresses. Ordinary open work jet or beading of any sort, in Maltese and geometric patterns, is used mounted on ribbon or directly on the muslin or lace. The wired Medici collars are not so satisfactory as the jet on soft rio bon, as the wire bends out ot shape easily and catches in lace and muslin. Printed crepe de chine in delicious shades, printed with flowers in natural colors, open the class of high-priced ma terials which closes with embroidered and brocaded crepes wrought in the color of the ground, in contrast of glossy and dull silk that has the shades of embossed metal. In delicate pink, cream white, pistache green, mauve and filmy blues these are the choicest evening toilets for Newport or the Springs. IIOW'S THIS FOR A TEA GOWK? An exquisite tea gown is pearl gray Louis XIV. brocade, bordered by pointed ecru lace, with a full loose front of pink net beaded in drops with smoked pearls. A pretty danc ing dress for a young lady is white benga line, brocaded in many colored butterflies, black and flame color, yellow, blue and black and dim blue. Low pointed bodice, with berth e of dull green silk, with berthe ot chenille mingled with beaded strands; kerchief folds and elbow sleeves of white mousseline chiffon. Another gown is white India silk printed with pale blue flowers and striped alternately with blue and red lines' fichu of pale old" pink mousseline chiffon, one end carried in a directory frilling in waves down the right side, butterfly bows in Htiu ribbon a deeper shade down the front E v . . iViititeim - ' v-'iihii iltiiA liTsMiiliV limrffiliihhitTn' of the pointed waist and on the short drawn sleeves. All the old sleeve patterns come in vogue aeain. The small flowing shape with white full under-sleeves gathered in a cuff, the elbow sleeve open on the outer seam and held together by bows, and the long shirred sleeve, pretty for thin arms. The finest trimmings are of gold cord, softened with silver, and cream silk crochet, shown in galoons or straight bands, or in shaped pieces for the figaro vest, epaulets and sleeves. The beautiful illuminated trim mings cost lrom ?S a yard upward in silver and gold thread worked on net, with jewelled beads imitating turquoise, pale pink topaz, emerald and garnet, sVnber and coral, the colors so skillfully assorted that they blend with almost any material as if made for if. UOTES ABOUT TRIMMING. Trimming in green, light pink, mauve and iris would suit any of these colors. Straw, turquoise and coral, with silver and gold thread, would go beautifully with cream and chamois shades in addition to their own. Pine silk guipure and jet work is fashionable for yokes, cuirasses and peasant belts. Straw trimming is very artistically worked on net with silk and straw of different tints; Tuscan, Milan and satin straw with silk in harmonizing shades and Etruscan gold thread, hardly to be told lrom the fine fancy Tuscan in color and twist. Bonnets and bats exhaust invention for midsummer novelties. Por the Casino or summer garden concert the tiny casque shape just covering the top of the head and the French twist is made in white drawn crepe, with a thread of fine flowers under the brim, a pale velvet bow and a shell of lace outside, a large gold ball pin with pierced head or a fancy comblet at the back as unobtrusive in color and shape a a bonnet well can be, but of elegant materials. Or there are little skeleton bonnets in ribs of amber or scarlet velvet and jet, with a ruche of black lace next the hair and cluster of pompons of black lace and creped scarlet silk, finished with a bie lace butterfly. A simple dainty bonnet is a capote of two rows of crimpled crepe for the brim and a round coronet of jet, the toD of a large rosette of crepe, with black velvet strings. Clear black and white, or white relieved with black, takes the place of the gold milli nery six weeks old. A Parisian capeline is likely to take the fancy for outdoor parties and half dress. B02J2TETS AND BONNETS. The model is a bonnet of white crinoline striped with narrow green velvet ribbon or cord, the crown draped full with pale pink tulle or muslin, tied in a huge bow at the top with two pink tips. The brim is frilled with two inch double ruffle like the crown, wired to keep it in place, and wide tulle strings tied in a great becoming bow under the chin. Hats with brim of any moderate width are worn like bonnets, off the face, the crown hidden by a handkerchief of silk, with many loops of ribbon and strings to tie in front. A pretty model is white cactus or fancy braid, with crown of white faille, with many loops of white satin and green velvet ribbon in front and a twist of the two round the crown, the strings tying with long loops and ends a little longer at the left side. It is sweetly pretty and girlish, as the illus tration shows. A natty outing suit will recommend itself to girls who go with their brothers into the woods. The small shady hat, with its bag crown and tassel, the spotted flannel sailor shirt and loose tie, the plain pleated flannel shirt of the same shade as the blouse, are picturesque and comfortable, and there is not a suspicion of corset under the flannel either. Charming garden bonnets for wearers no longer young compare with the juvenile fashion for instance, one of light unbleached fine linen on rattan, with scarf of pink or mauve muslin round the crown and pompons of pint muslin and black vel vet loops. Drawn bonnets or hats are in oneshadeof pink, lilac or blue organdy, with scarf and strings. COLOB COMBINATIONS. Something light is needed to wear in warm days, when black silk and jet capes are too heavy, but some relief is desired for plain bodices. The fichu of plain blue or mauve crepe de chine is imported by the best nouses, and these colors or black will be sure to look well with any toilet. They are the simplest things to make, being a half kerchief with two of the points rounded off for the back, wide ruffles a finger deep gathered on its edge, either hemmed or finished with a pearl stitching. These trifles sell at the price of a good black mantle, but cost about 55 to make one's self. A pale blue one or a mauve is well worn with thin black dresses, lace, bengaline or veiling, or with figured gowns that show the 'same shades. The cut shows just howthe fichu should be worn, the ends tied once loosely. A black fichu with pearled or Vankvked edges would appropriately tone down a black and amber or a red dress. "White relieved with green in cool, clear, combination, is the fancy for elegant dress White wool crepe, with a border of white India embroidery open over a panel of moss green velvet, a puff of which shows one side of the bodice, on the cuffs and at the girdle, is delightful, nay poetic, for July wear. White silk lace in open leaf pattern over a mineral green silk has the effect ot asbes tos or the tints of a waterfall. A white wool damask, such as Juliet might have worn at her first meeting with Borneo, has a chemisette of folds of white China crepe, relieved with moss velvet, white green faille sash and velvet round collar. Bonnet and Scarf. A gown of white veiling bat the skirt cut in shallow points over a band of green vel vet, collars, cuffs and girdle of the same. the prosaic recommendation of which is that the velvet takes the wear and the gown keeps its freshness better. White blazers are made in a white ribbed flannel that looks like corduroy and does not soil like twilled wool. Jackets of white duck and fine twilled linen are made for a few wearers who know what is desir able. The newest London sunshades are fleecy white washing net, pufled and frilled all over, finishing with a deep ruffle of double net or Mechlin dotted net. They are dyed to match costume, in cream, mauve, saffron, pale green and pink, and are the sunshades for dressy weddings, parties and races. To make the plain skirts hang well English dress makers put wadding under the hems. A piece of lining or alpaca a yard long and a quarter wide has a thin layer of wadding tacked on, is folded in two and sewed inside the hem in front of the skirt, where it adds substance and takes the wear from the instep of the shoe or stocking. The set of the skirt is much improved for the addition. The true old leg of mutton sleeves are cut in one piece. "-TEAR TEA JACKETS. The new tea jackets are very dressy and a convenient addition to wear with lace skirts or silk ones for evening or quiet home din ners and concerts. They are tight fitting in the back, it not in front, made of handsome material, much trimmed with lace and em broidery, and the elbow cleeves are finished with a lace frill. In black striped merveil leux with a loose full front ot pale pink or blue crepe and undersleeves to correspond. lace and ribbon revers and bows with long ends, a tea jacket is the most convenient thing in the wardrobe. In white crepe de chine, with facings of primrose or pink faille, mousseline frills ot the same shades, and ironts 01 duchess point it is more than convenient it is bewitching. French milliners are saying that they long to see the bonnet entirely discarded for elderly ladies, as a well made hat suits them so much better. Accordion pleating is used alternately with flat, broad pleats for bengaline and thin goods. Foulard cotton is the new version of old-time chintz, but finer and softer, without a particle of dressing. A pretty gown in the new taste is cream ecru foulard with narrow floral stripes, open over a loose front of mauve lawn, with frill at the foot, buttonholed in fine Vandykes, collar and cuffs are of the lawn, and the gown is tied with pale purple ribbons. The foulard is plainly hemmed, with eyelets worced in the hemstitch. Such gowns used to have all the hooks and eyes buttonholed on, and the whalebones leatberstitched like embroidery. Shirlet Dabe. A SAGE FOB CELLULAB, The Beat Corsets for Hot Weather and Made ofllio Fashionable SlnfT. Fall Mall Budget. The best corsets for the hot weather are those made by the cellular people. They are so well ventilated. They are built from French models, and are made either with the fashionable long waist or the short one, and cost about half a guinea a pair. Since Stanley ordered his cellular shirts there has been a run on this material in all sorts ot articles. Men's ties are now made in cellular. They have a pretty stripe and look licht. So do tennis shirts, with caps to match. They are lined with stripes of gold, pink, pale blue and red. These gar ments in silk cellular are as light as gos samer. Mchu Drapery Jar Bodice. MODJESKA AND THE CAT. An Experience Upon Ibo filnco Thnt Blade the Great Actress Olast Wretched. Modjeska blames a cat for one of the most wretched moments of her life. She was playing "Camille." The climax is reached when, seeing her wasted form in the glass after her sickness, Camt'We expresses herself in a dismal shriek. Tnis evening, preced ing this crowning yell perhaps a minute, there strolled upon the stage at the first en trance a most leisurely cat one of .the sqx which votes. He proceeded along the foot lights some ten feet, and then, bending his yellow gaze on the alien with the bigfiddle, stood in feline admiration of the virtuoso. Modjeska, busy with her work, with her back to the front, saw nothing, and, at the proper place, floated forth a skriek, the like of which had not been voiced by Polish throat since Kosciusko fell. The effect on the cat was magic itself. Never in the somber alley or the high ecstacy of a moonlighted roof, neither in loviug spooning nor mortal fight, had he ever produced or heard a noise its equal. Turning wildly, his reason overthrown, his horror-stricken tail as large as a baby's leg, lie fled, while the people roared and yelled. Poor Modjeska almost fainted, and, sus pecting the cause to be some deficiency in garb, stuck her ten fingers in her costume and cantered after the cat. Carriage or Promenade Fan, mil A SHIN BONE OF BEEF. The Wonderful Variety of Dishes That Can be Made From It. THREE MEALS FKOM ONE BOILING, Heclpes for Delicacies and Subatantials From Ellice Serena. WHOLESOME FOODS AT SLIGHT COST rwniTTEx ron tot disfatcii.i It was said of a famous Parisian cook that he could make a choice soup out of a mush room, some water and a little spice. He was a master, and his skill in his own do main was something akin to that of the divinity student of whom the story is told in one of the old English classics. When this clerk left the university he wag given a benefice, and when he came to the parish church to deliver his first sermon he was handed a piece of blank paper, on which he was told would be found the text for his se mon. The young preacher was eaual to the emergency. He took for his subject "Noth ing," and by his erudition, his sincerity and his eloquence secured at once the favor of his patron and of bis congregation. The sermon is still extant, in choice English. And we are here reminded that the poem "Nothing," by Eochester, is one of the most remarkable productions of English poetry; and, although full of "nothing," it has been read and admired for 200 years. The shin bone of the beef as a marketable commodity is next to nothing, and there are many people who regard it as such; but there is certainly no part of the beef which, unpretentious and insignificant as it is, can 'for all purposes of the table be at all com pared with it. A good shin bone may be had in the markets at from 10 to 20 cents, according to the size; but at such prices, or anything near them, there is no other part of tbe beet so cheap. In the hands of a good manager it is simply astonishing how many wholesome dishes can be made from the shin bone, not to say anything of the uses it may be converted into, after it has passed the small boy's hands into those of the rag man. Dr. Kitchener a high authority in his "Cook's Oracle," says in his quaint, an tique fashion: "Of all the fowls of the air, commend me to a shin of beef; there is meat for the master, marrow for the mistress, gristle for tbe servants, and bone lor the dog." A writer has called attention to the fact that the doctor forgot the soup this, may we add, for the troops of hungry chil dren whom this economist manifestly neg lected to provide for. BEEP SOUP. Break the bone ot a moderately sized shin of beef. Cover with five or six Quarts of cold water. and add one teaspoonful ot salt; remove the scum and cover closely. Let It simmer slowly and steadily for six or seven hours. Take out the beef and set the stock to cool after strain ing it. Skim well tbe next day, add one gratod car rot, two small onions, minced; two small turnips, cut In pieces; one-half pint tomatoes, a sprig of parsley, a celery top (or bruised colery seed) one small red pepper, minced; spices to taste and for thickening one tablesnoonful of butter and browned flour rubbed together. Place In the tureen two hard-boiled etrcs. mashed smooth, and turn in tho soup after straining through a sieve. SPICED BEEP. Boil a large shin of beef until very tender. Pick the meat to pieces, and crash all the gristle, that is soft, very fine. Bet the stock to cool, and then remove the fat. Reduce the stock by boiling to one quart. Roll quite fine eight or ten crackers and add to the meat. Season with salt, pepper, cloves, mi.iced parsley and grated nutmeg, and a little cinna mon. Cover with the stock, place on the stove and let come to the boll. Pack in a deep dish and cut into slices when cold. A SIDE DISH. From the shin bone, which has been left from the soup, cut the meat in small pieces, add a cold potato or two cut in thin slices, an onion, minced, and a sprig of parsley. Cover with stock, season, add a small piece of butter, dredge with flour and set in the baker until brown. PICKLED BEEP. Cut In very fine pieces the meat from a boiled sMn bone. Season with spices to taste! Add a little well reduced stock and some good strong vinegar. Pack In a deep dish and slice when cold. MEAT BALLS. Chop fine the meat taken from a boiled shin of beef. Season with salt, pepper and a little powdered sace. Mix with a well beaten egg; roll In cracker meal or bread crumbs and fry in hot lard. POSSIBILITIES OP BOILED BEEP. Wipe the beef with a damp cloth do not wash it. Plunge into boiling water, and add salt when it is about half done. Skim carefully from time to time. Keep closely covered and simmer slowly until tender enough for a fork to pierce it readily. If the meat is not to be eaten warm, let it get cold in the liquor In which it was cooked, for by this means it will be rich and juicy. Clarify the fat skimmed from the stock and strain Into the "drippings" crock. r or luncneon, cut lrom tno Deer, neat, mm slices, sprinkle with salt and pepper and gar nish with sprigs of parsley or grated horse radish. For dinner beat tbe beef liquor or stock and add to it fresh vegetables and herbs finely chopped, or any "left over."," such as corn, peas, bean or potatoes. Strain through a sieve and add flour and butter, a tablespoonf ul of each, rubbed together for thlekenins. For breakfast, freo from fat and gristle the beef left after slicing for luncheon. Chop into small pieces, add one-half dozen cold boiled potatoes cut in cubes, ono union, minced and fried brown in drippings, season with salt and pepper and add a little sage or parsley cut very tine. Cover with some of the soup stock, add a little thickening and let simmer for a moment. Serve on toast which has been delicately browned and the crust removed. BOILED MEATS. Boiled meats to be sliced (cold) should be cooled in their liquor. Fresh meats aro put into boiling water salt meats into cold water. MIXED SANDWICHES. Take equal quantities of cold tongue, ham and chicken and chop fine. Add a little melted butter, one tablespoonful of salad oil, one tablespoonful of mustard, the yolks of two bard boiled eggs and seasoning. Spread on neat slices of crustless bread. PLAIN CAKE. One cupful of suear, a small htlf cupful of butter, two-thirds of a cup of sweet milk, one egg, two cupf uls of flour, two small teaspoon f ula of baking power. Filling: One-half pint sweet cream, four desert spoonfuls of white sugar, one teaspoon ful vanilla. Beat this mixture until thick as custard and spread between the layers when the cake is quite cold. FOAMING; SAUCE. One cup of Buear, with a quarter of a pound of butter, beaten until creamy. Add the yolk of one eggwell beaten; aJso the white beaten stiff. Stir in one wineglass of water and flavoring. Place in a pan of hot ,wator until thick as cream. Do not let it bod. CBEAMED POTATOES. One quart cold boiled (or raw) potatoes, cut In small pieces. If raw. stew for 15 minutes. One half capful of cream or milk, one table spoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of flour rubbed together. Season. CAKE WITHOUT EOGS. One and one-half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cup of butter, one cup'of sour milk'In which one level teaspoonful of soda Is dissolved. Three level cupfuls sifted flour, one-half tea spoonful each of cinnamon and nutmeg, one teacupful of chopped raisins (floured). Bake in a moderate oven. HAM BALLS. Cut from a ham bone, no longer available for slicing, all thelean and fat. Mince lu tbe chopping bowl until fine. Add an equal quantity of mashed potatoes. Mold into shape on a floured board and bake brown in hot drippings. STEWS AND HASHES. To enrich stews and hashes use good stock or sonp instead of water. If these dishes are made from "'left overs," which have lost much or their savor by previous cookinjr, the use of water would still further impoverish them. PEACH PUDDINOl One cupful of flour and one teaspoonful of baking powder sifted together. DISPATCH, SUNDAY, JOLT 6, Make Into a stiff batter with three-fourths of a cup of milk. Beat two eggs very light with one-fourth of a enp of sugar and just a little salt. After mixing stir in as many peaches, cut In small pieces, as the batter will bear. Butter a bowl or Dan thoroughly and fill it about three-fourtbs full. Tie over it a muslin cloth and place tn a pot of boiling water, which must ba kept con stantly boiling until the pudding Is done. Cook for one hour and a half. Serve with cream or sauce. PULLED BBEAD. This bread is much used in England and is always served with cheese. The manner of Ereparing it is as follows: Just as soon as loaf read has been removed from the oven, pull the inside out of it in pieces about thesizo of a roll. Place these pieces in a pan; set in the oven until brown. These can be eaten hot or cold, but are usually served very hot. Pulled bread can also be made from unbaked dough. Divide the dough into six or eight equal parts. Roll into strands, pinch at both ends to keep them together, and then braid them. Let rise and bake. When done separate and bake brown. SARATOGA FBLED POTATOES. Peel good sized potatoes and slice them evenly. Place them in ice water. Have ready a kettle of very hot lard. Put a few of the potatoes in a clean towel or napkin. Shake them about to dry them. Place in a frying basket and immerse in the lard until a light brown. The potatoes can also be dropped Into a skillet of hot lard or drip pines. Be careful not to crowd them. Remove with a skimmer and place for a few moments on brown paper. Sprinkle with sale, and serve on a dish cov ered with a fringed napkin. FRUIT CBEAM. Mash thoroughly one quart of fresh ripe fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, cur rants and peaches. Press tbrougn a sieve, and add one-half pound of white sugar and beat thoroughly. Add to this a pint and a half of rich cream and beat to a thick foam. Serve in glasses. Tart-stewed apples prepared in this manner are excellent. Fruit creams aro delicious for dessert. ONE USE OP ICE WATEB. Celery, radishes and onions are much im proved in taste, if placed In salted ice water some time before serving. Cucumbers, too, aro prepared in this manner, but must not be sliced until ready to serve. Ellice Serena. THE HEW DANCES. Descriptions of tbo Waltz minuet nnd L'av enir Adopted for the Season. New York Sun, The Waltz Minuet and L'avenir are the season's new dances, chosen and adopted at the recent convention. The idea of the former, which promises to be the more popu lar of the two, originated with Strauss, bis idea being to temper the vigor of the mod ern waltz into something more graceful than the tearing romp it has degenerated into. As the name implies, it combines the slow stateliness of the minuet with the perverted waltz, and produces as a result a very pretty dance. It begins with the minuet step, for which the music is slow and the time strongly marked, and develops into the reg ular waltz step, with music a trifle slower than the waltz as ordinarily danced. This step is much more easily learned than L'avenir, which is a combination of the schottische, waltz and galop steps to gether, with a step unlike any of the dances now in vogue. The music to which it is danced is very gay and sprightly, the move ment picturesque and pleasing, and the effect of a room full of people dancing it is enchanting. It commences with a schot tische step, tbe music quickens to a gaiop, and again as quickly slows to a stately measure resembling the minuet, only that it is a little more vivacious. Tbe last step is the intricate JVavenir itself, and is like nothing so much as a waltz danced in quickstep time, if such a thing were possi ble. As the various figures come and go tbe gentleman puts his arm about the lady's waist as in ordinary round dances, holds her left hand in his rieht as they trip for ward side by side, both facing in the same direction with their smooth, gliding step in their progress to the galop, which is a feat ure of the dance. ' WOMEN'S HEM A-RTrfl-nTVE WOEK. Others Besides Miss Fawccit nre Dlstin enlsblnir Themselves in tbe Schools. New York Sun. 3 Another woman in England who, like the girl senior wrangler, has achieved much distinction in an educational way, is Miss Eleonora L. Fleury, who has jnst had the honor of passing the medical degrees exam ination of the Boyal University of Ireland in tho Upper Pass Division. The examin ers recommended her for the further exam ination for honors in company with one other student, a man, in which she won the first place in the order of merit and the University prize of ?40 as well. The whole career of this remarkable young woman has been a continuous record of the highest med ical honors a woman student can gain. In the law, too, recently, there has been a brilliant success gained by Mile. Belcesco, a Roumanian lady, who has recently taken her degrees. Like Miss Pawcett, she ob tained the highest place in the examination for the licentiatic degree, and her success at the examination for tbe doctor's degree was quite as phenomenal. Tbe question was raised as to her wearing the cap and gown, and finally decided in the negative by a learned doctor, who pronounced that, as in heraldry, metal should not be up on metal, nor color on color, so one gown should not hide another. This Roumanian Portia is a pretty girl of 23, tall and graceful, and of the bru nette type peculiar to the country. Her parents have given her a thorough boy's education, and there are few more accomplished Latin and Greek scholars than she. Her mother always es corted her, and in tbe six years ot her study she has missed only one lecture. Her pres sent purpose is to apply for admission at the Bucharest bar, not to practice for re muneration, as her circumstances render it entirely unnecessary, but to establish a pre cedent in favor ot women who are obliged to earn a livelihood, and to plead for women too poor to employ other counsel. A RADLBOAD QUEE2T. Sirs. Hnliies, Three Times u millionaire. Will Make Iter Homo In Brooklyn. The first woman in America ever chosen president of a steam railroad is Mrs. Charles D. Haines, who has just left the Southwest to live in Brooklyn. The line of which she is the chief officer is the Haines Medina Valley road in Texas. Mrs. Haines hus band, in association with others, is the owner of several short railways in varions States in the Union. The fair president is an excellent business woman, ana is well fitted for the position to which she has been elevated. Mrs. Haines, who is only 29 years of age, is gifted with rare executive ability. She has come North for a twofold purpose in search of a much-needed rest and in order to look about for profitable speculations. On tbe arrival of her husband from Texas she proposes to begin tbe constrnction of a palatial home near Prospect Park in Brook lyn. Mrs. Haines is in possession of an inde pendent fortune of 53,000,000. She is most charitably inclined and a charming woman. DECKUfG THE BOYAL TABLES. Tho Duty Devolves Upon Fonr Officials of of Queen Victoria's Household. It may not be generally known that at tached to the Queen's household are four officials whose sole duty is to deck the royal tables. In the case of a royal banquet the operation of decking is far more difficult than will perhaps be imagined. One official devotes his attention to the wax candles, of which there are dozens on the table, and, in fact all over tbe royal palace, for this is one ot the old-fashioned customs which the Queen still adheres to so pertinaciously. .1890. LOYE Iff A' COTTAGE. It May All be Very Well but the Furnicnre Won't ba Elegant. SIMTLE FURNISHINGS THE BEST. Grand Fabrics Don't Cost Much if Ther Are the Bogus An liqnes. THE COKNER SHELF IN A NEW DKESS rWBTrTEN TOE THE DISPATCH.) TVe read now and then of "how to live on $10 a week" or how to furnish a home on 53,000," but smile pityingly especially if we ve tried it Any man who ever attempt ed to build a house on an architect's calcula tions, and has learned that a (5,000 plan ate into a $7,000 bank bal ance, knows with what utter contempt, snch things as the average "hints on suburban home I n'Iding" or "fur nishing" can be re garded. The one great barrier to economic housefurnishing is this: People who are most interested in the subject are usually in no posi tion to attempt it; for to properly exercise anv Fifteenth Century Sideboard. economy in interior decoration, one should at least have money enough to make a Droper Btart. "What ruins the appearance of many homes is tbe "picked np" look about them. They have no character. Picked up things may be cheap but if they fail as a collection to harmonize, then they cease to be decorative and the motive is lost. In the first place, then, your rooms must possess a character. If a person should ask me "what style LOOPING A of house decorations is the most elaborate, luxurious and necessarily the most costly?" I would say with no hesitation, "the Louis XV. stvle. If asked "what is the most sen sible, simple and necessarily the most inex pensive?" I would say, "fifteenth century style." VAEIETT A NECESSITY-. If asked, "would you furnish an entire house in one style?" I would say "no, I would no more think of having every apart ment dressed alike than I would put my family in livery. The monotony of such 3 home would be unbearable enough to put a man in the mad house. I would select my furnishing from the most simple styles for three reasons: First, because cheapest; second, because in simple thinzs you run tbe least risk of getting slop work, and third, because simple pieces, especially ot furniture, are more easily taken care of, more easily dusted or varnished. During the past "few years we have had in thairs and a few other odd pieces the sixteenth century style a style you will recognize by the worn look of the wood. A dark, brown-stained clothes chest, for instance, shows natural wood on the edges, and wherever there is any carving the natural wood grains are disclosed at prominent points as though tbe finish had been worn away. Now back a century be fore this sixteenth century period, the furni ture used was Btill more primitive; the artistic lines were all there, with the charm and richness ot good taste; but the resources of the cabinet maker were limited and the work was by necessity severely simple. We show here a side-board of the fifteenth century and it can be seen that while tbe style is good, it is de cidedly cheap. Take this then, as the style for your dining room and you can proceed on safe and inexpensive grounds. GKAND FOB THBEE DOLLARS. Folks say "Ob, yes, bnt the fabrics cost so much." Nonsensel It's simply because you don't know what to ask lor. Tell a mend that you have at your parlor windows a pair of genuine antique lace curtains and it'll sound very grand, yet I know a retailer who is right now selling beauties, simule of course, for S3 a pair. Here is a list of cheap upholstery stuffs, all of which are shown in styles just as refined and correct, thongh possibly not in every case as elaborate as the best class goods: Muslins for curtains, shown in striped and checked ground with beautifully embroidered de signs; madras for curtains, sold by the yard or pair; cotton tapestries for curtains or coverings, finest colorings and effects, many of them direstcopies of the most ex pen sive goods; cotton pongees for draperies, imita tions of the Chinese and India silks, same, design colors and weight, but cot tou, chenille stuffs forcurtains, plain or figured, by the yard or pair; denim for draperies, same as overalls are made of; cretonnes, pettit points, ramies, spun silks, Canton flannel draperies, and cotton plush. All of these goods are inex pensive but nrtistin. The Corner She'. TYING A CUETAnr BACK. Drawing back or "looping" a curtain is almost invariably done by carrving your cord or gimp from the hook on tile window casement clear round the curtain. Tbe latest fashion is entirely different. A ro sette, cap or tuft is affixed to the curtain, somewhere about a foot from the inner edge and the cord is attached to this, both front and back of curtain. Endless innovation can be introduced upon this idea. The tuft can be covered by a bunch of artificial flow ers or a heavy bow. If the drapery is on the Japanese order, you can cover thctult T m mmmK !,, , 'iljly of A ) li 'III ' rf 'li i ' B ' 'II I Pr w VjifaSiitfifeiL hiffiwfc3U"-1- ' --. 'irVvlft-ItiJWitf?---"1 sJUa'.. nlV n-fP-n 'tM&fi with a crab or some such device from the Japanese country. Yellow is the color now that the decorat ors are all running to, yellow wall, yellow curtains, yellow carpets with now and then just enobgb black to relieve it It women with artistio taste would drop their ambitious studio life and their daubs of landscape and get right down to work for the upholstery trade, they would make more money. But somehow or other artists, like actors, go on struggling year after year, apparently fascinated by their precarious calling, all awaiting patiently and hope fully the master stroke, which will elevate them in a night. If Dora Wheeler had al lowed her ambitions to rob her of her sound sense she never would have made the money she has or be! J tbe position she now occu pies in the decorative field. I know artists who would flourish if they would get down to book covers, bnt they soar to cloud paint ing. If tbey would do a ceiling their coffers would fill np, but they prefer babbling brooks and canvas bits, dust covered, neglected, unremunerative. They won't' work lor the trade. Hand painted wall hangings were some years ago only made by Mrs. Wheeler and the associated artists, but to-day other women have gone into the field and tbe upholstery stores gladly take all their work. They had the courage of their convictions and worked hard for tbe trade and the trade's necessities, and many of them have in consequence made the salaries of bank Presidents, while their bohemian brethren are still sitting by the babbling brook. THE OLD-TIME COKNEE SHELF. A corner shelf canopy, one of the most universally decorative things that can be used in a bouse, is made by draping silken curtains from it. The old-time corner shelf is thus made exceedingly rich looking. The edge of the shelf is dressed off by a narrow brass railing. The illustration shows tbe treatment. Among the very latest decorative oddities which have come in to us from all the world over, are Japanese straw mats about five feet long, made in the same way as matting, only designed in colored straw in mat sizes. Bamboo fish poles are split up and make excellent mouldings for wall panels. The fish poles cost about cent each in India. Por "every pole 1$ cent freight is charged and then incidental profits do tbe rest till 23 cents is charged for the mere rent of the things at the seashore. You never know nowadays when you are buying Chinese, Turkish or Japanese em broideries; for the decorative craze has en- CTJBTAIN. couraged the manufacture of table covers, scarfs and tidies in this countty copied in the native colorings, designs and textures of the Eastern weaver. The copy is generally remarkably true. The story of sending warming pans to the Hottentots, where they were a dead failure as warming pans but a glorious success as stew-pots, finds a repetition in the big im portation lately of a job lot of Japanese chair cushions. They were of straw and coarse and entirely unfitted for the purpose intended, but hunsr up on the wall they make excellent memorandum cushions. They are fringed all round, the edge orna mented by three or four Chinese spiders, and long pins with a tas.-el on the head ends are used to attach cards, letters or "mems" to it. c. E. Clifford. A HEW ENGLISH GAME. It Bents Croquet for Oat-of-Door Diver sion nod Is Already Popnlor. A new out-of-door game called "The Colors" has fceen invented by Mrs. A. Hartshorne, of Bradbourne Ball, near Derby, England, says the Pall Mall budget. It may be played by four or eight players. For the four players the materials for the game are four sets of five posts painted red, white, blue and green. Each plaver has a little rack on which she or he carries eight rings, two each of the same color?, and two small flags bearing the letters "l:."or "L.," signifying right or left. There are also flags painted black to indicate a miss or "fault." The court should be CO feet long by 30 feet wide. To arrange the ground the posts are planted in sets of fives, each post two feet six inches apart from its neighbor, in a figure which would form a cross, the first or starting set being at one end of the ground, the end or finishing set at tbe extreme end of tbe court, exactly opposite the start, and the side sets in the middle of each side of the court. Each player beinc furnished with his complement of eight rings, which have pre viously been shaken up in a bag, two part ners stand on each side of the starting set of posts facing each other. The whole object of the game is to get rid of the rings in such a manner that they retain their proper se quence on the posts. There is no throwing or running. The players walk leisurely from set to set, deposit their rings if thev can, and then walk on to tbe next set of posts. One player may get rid of a ring by placing it on his partner's ring, and any player may play two rings following if pos sible. There is no hurry or scurry, bnt there is a certain amount of science' in the game, and of course it may be varied in many ways. It may be called tbe quadrille of garden games" It will never in any way interfere with tenuis, because it appeals to totally different people from tenuis players, but there is plenty of room for it, and it certainly is prettier and more interesting than croquet, though it seems so simple. The new game was played the other after noon in the gardens ot the Inner Temple by a number ot trained players, betore a party of specially invited guests. BAEEFOOTED PBLESTS. Pecallailtlesoflba Uellsions of ihe.Orlcnt as to Dress. There is little real difference between Confucianism and Shintoism in Oriental life, except as a matter of extervals. The priets of the Shinto faith are very particular about appearing in all their regalia when ever they appear in public. No matter how imposing they may be as to head and body, the leet are leit uncovered. To a Westerner the contrast is striking, ludicrously so, re minding one of inmates of insane asylums that glory in.notliing so much a3 leaving off a very important article ot dress. AIT IV0BY KNEE J0LMT. Wonderful Operation In London That Prom ises to be Buccrssful. "Prof. Gluck, of London, recently per formed a remarkable and successful opera tion. He removed from one ot his male patients a diseased knee joint, and inserted an artificial substitute made from ivory. The patient has now .left his bed. He walks with perfect ease, and says that his ivory knee joint is convenient and comfort able in every way. pfi COUGHS AND SNEEZES. Some Simple Methods of Dealing With Sick Room Troubles. THE EFFECT OF KERVE PRESSURE. Mechanical and Medical Emetics, and When and How to Use Them. PBECAtJTIONS DURING CONVALESCENCE IWEITTBN TOE THE ISPATCn.1 Nurses have to deal with many cases in which the effort and muscular contraction caused by tbe exertions of sneeling, cough ing and hiccoughing are very weakening and trying to the patient. Sneezing is pro. duced by both external and internal causes. Externally, by particles of irritating dust in the air and sometimes by sunlight, or intense color; internally, by disordered nervous conditions, and it is conusd&ly associated tfith whooping cough, asthma and gont. Pressure upon the fifth nerve will olten tem porarily prevent sneezing as pinching tha upper lip under the nose. The application of mustard to the back of the neck will often relieve it; and in violent cases an emetic has been used with good results. Coughing may be relieved in a variety of ways and, again, every attempt may avail nothing; but the nurse should pay especial attention to the posture of the person, and learn that position which most removes tha tendency to frequent eoughing. Again, coughing may be induced by a tickling sen sation in the throat, which some very simple soothing mixture or drink may relieve, as slippery elm tea, Irish moss, licorice, etc. Then, too, many persons cough from habit. Many times a little exercise of will would, postpone the effort. HISTS FEOM BRO'Wjr-SEQTJ'ABD. Dr. Brown-Seauard. in one of hi Ipotnr.,. With ..f.. anA .n 1 T . ' ...... .1.IH6UVC w u cnecs. a cnecc on tneezin" coughing, etc.. savs: CnncMni- vn k stopped by pressing on the nerves, on the lip in the neighboihood of the nose. Sneez ing may be stopped by the same mechanism. Pressing in the neighborhood of ear, right in front of the ear, mav stop coughing It is so also of hiccough, "but much less so than for sneezing or coughing. Pressing very hard on the top of the mouth, inside, is also a means of stopping coughins, and many say that the will has immense power. . 'Ther? ,are man7 other affections asso ciated with breathing, which can be stopped by tho same mechanism that stops tho heart's action. In spasm of the clottis which is a terrible thing in children, and 0 j,n , wnooP'nS cougb, it is possible to afford relief by throwing cofd water on tha feet, or by tickline the soles of the feet, which produces laughter, and at the same time goes to the matter that is producing the spasm, and arrests it almost at once. I would not say that we can always prevent cough by our will; but in many instances these things are possible, and if yon remem ber that in bronchitis and pneumonia, or any acute affection of the lungs, hacking or coughing greatly increases the trouble at times, you can easily see how important it is for the patient to try to avoid coughing aa BELIEF FOB HICCOUGH. Hiccough is most frequently a symptom of stomach or abdominal disturbance, but it may be purely nerve irritation, inde pendently of this. It may be produced by the presence ot indigestible or highly spiced foods in the stomach or by very warm .oods or drinks. It may be slight or persistent. When occurring in typhoid fever, cholera, meningitis or peritonitis, it is a grave symp tom. The mild attacks are relieved by hold ing the breath for as long as is consistent. Very warm applications on tbe lower por tion of the back of the neck or over the diaphrazm sometimes afford relieX and pressing hard upon one of the musi'es of the neck which reaches from the nner border of the upper portion of the first rib behind the "collar bone" upward and back ward to the vertebra ot the neck has been known to check this distressing symptom. Infants vomit with perfect ease; children make it no difficult task; but adults, in gen eral, find it very hard work. In many con ditions it is well to induce vomiting. This may be the case when it is desired to dis lodge false membranes in croup, or diph theritic deposits and other substances front the air passages. Again if a poison has been swallowed frequently the best thing that you cap do is to induce vomiting at once. The quickest way, when it can be done, is by forcing the finger of the patient down his throat, gagging as it is sometimes termed. Tickling the throat with a feather will often produce vomiting. SEVERE BUT SUCCESSFUL. I remember being called to a case of lauda num poisoning,when after failing to produce vomiting in every other way, the following method was successful: A long whalebona was procured; around one end of it a rag was wound, and a str ing two feet long fast ened tnorougniy to the rag. The rag was then pushed gently down tbe rasopaghus into the stomach and then the whalebone was withdrawn, leaving the string extending from the rag in the stomach out through tho mouth; a eentle jerking of the string a few times secured the necessary irritation and contraction bronght up the mixture of laudanum, the strong coffee that had been given as an antidote to the laudanum, the mustard and other potions that had failed to provoke tbe vomiting, and, of course, tha woman recovered in due time. The more common emetics are mustard and water, lukewarm water, wine of ipecao or syrup of ipecac, salt and water. In casa poisons have been swallowed, physicians often administer sulphate of zinc, 10 to 20 grains, dissolved in water, and repeated in ten minutes, i necessary. The difficulty in vomiting mav be overcome if the person will lower the head and make the attempt lying down with the face downward resting the body on the bed and tbe head on the arm upon a chair or other support. OS THE BOAD TO BECOVEBT. When your patient is mending you must not relinquish vour watchfulness. In soma sickness convalescence is sudden; in others it is gradual. Convalescents are very apt not to notice their own weakness, and want to do more than they are able. Let tbe person first sit up in bed; afterward, with out dressing, in a chair well covered wit& bedclothes; still later let him gradually in crease his exertions. Do not burden tbe patient with heavy clothes; neither should you forget to make those he does put on attractive and pretty. The room should be warmer when tha patient is up than when he is in bed, and when he first sits up do not let him be bur dened with visitors. An invalid can alwayi be politely excused. J. B. S. MACKENZIE'S LECTD2E PEES. Colonel Pond to Pay Him Nearly S3 00 a Nleht for Ills American Trip. London WorldJ" Colonel Pond at first offered SirMorell Mackenzie 100 per lecture for as many as 30 lectures in his American trip, but the eminent specialist only consented to give 15 lectures, and these are to be at the rate of 130 a lecture, or, in other words, Sir Morell will receive 2,000 for 15 lectures. This is the highest remuneration which has hitherto been given for lectures. Arch deacon Farrar, who was considered to ba very successful, received 40 a lecture. Mr. Stanley, who will follow Sir Morell in the middle of November, will of course cap tha doctor as regards fees. Sir Morell will lecture at New York, Philadelphia, Boston, Washington, Balti more, Pittsburg, Chicago, St. Louis and several other cities in the States. He has declined to go west of Omaha or wnth of Eicbmond, but will lecture in Canada, both at Montrearand Toronto. Sir Marell will leave England at tbe end of September and will be back at the beginning of November.
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