&5bSHk3 ;-0 GIKLS OP BRAIN AND MUSCLE. History 11a Repeated Itself and tbe Women of tbe Prrirnt are Followioc In tbe Footetrpe of the Beauties of Ancient Greece, Pretty Costume and TJecfal Bint. rWBITTKK JOB TBI BISPATCH.1 HE girl of the period has not been educated to be lieve with mnsty old Eu ripides that to "'remain quiet within doors is woman's genuine praise." She knows that to receive praise she must be strong physically as well as men tally; that it is no longer vulgar, but fashionable, for a woman to grow mus cle; that it is not plebeian to have the red wine of health paint her checks; that to be vivacious is not necessarillv to be loud; and that real grace suggests something of en ergy, action, strength, elasticity nyd self-dependence, compared with which all other grace is the reflection, onlv, that the pale, lack adaisical, indolent, dependent, pseudo invalid, stay-in-the-house girl would receive mea ger praise for the cultivation of euch so-called womanly grace. The present-day world has no place for such wilted loveliness. 3 he "rlinsing vine" is not in demand. The cll is tor strong minded, healthy, capable-women, so trained, they can fill any station in life, from making but ter to making horse shoes or piloting a boat. "What would dear, old Euripides think of that! He could hardly credit the statement that this culti vation of the physical woman in no wise destroys the delicious sense of protection which comes as we co about with a man w e trust. O f course every well regulated woman can take care of herself if she has to, but she doesn't like to, does sue girls? EURIPIDES WIS SOUR. I think Eurip ides must have been, in his day, what we call a "crank," since we borrow our ideas of athletic sports from the Greeks, whose maidens, we read, ran races in public gamer, tossed the quoit, dived and swam like river nym phs and even bunted on foot, as did Atalanta of Ar cadia ; and who were renowned for beauty, grace and splendid con tour of form. It's just possible they grew more fond of play than cooking and dish washing when the above quoted crank lost his temper, and in a fit wrote that maxim. Well, let us come back to the nineteenth century and see what is admissable in re fined circles for our "fair barbarians" in EDOrts that will develop muscular force, give the limbs agility and suppleness, open the chest and increase the lung capacity, fortiiy the constitution, regula'c and facili tate the digestive lunctions, equalize the circulation, create and preserve beauty of form, grace of outline and of movement, just proportion and rotundity of limb, en hance the development of the mental powers, etc, etc, all of which is claimed, and if the half is to be gained is not there then enough for us to strenuously advocate the education of girls in all kiuds of physi cal exercises, using of course due super vision and caution. Swimming, on the whole, is possibly one of the finest exercises, Fince it gives simultaneous and distributed action to nearly alPmusclei and organs of the body; is beautifully rythmic and cracc- iul, entails regular and large respiration, and combines with healthful gymnastic movements the advantage of developing in tellectual confidence and of adding a new and keen pleasure to existence. It is said the person who can swim well is in posses sion of an extra sense; that it is the next best thing to flying. Who it was that had the feather trimmings necessary to render flying possible, which enabled themto make the comparison between swimming and flying, has sot been written. POPULAR LAWN TENNIS. Lawn tennis is a sport of ever increasing raularitv. owinsr. it may be. to the latitude ? t affords for picturesque costuming. Many , HP 52S wS3f J I JS ifil JSI I if w ifflk III . F'lMWk flKo 111 Wk mWnV'4 wmtm and varied are the fabrics now shown by dealers for tennis, cricket, rowing and such apparel even silks in stripes, dots, and all manner of kaleidoscopic colors and designs, which are euaranteed durable as flannel and to wash like linen. But the fine flannels, gay striped or plain and decorated, at fancy's dictum, and the numerous pretty and cheaper outing-cloth seems more appropriate for such vigorous games. Almost invariably these gowns are made with straight skirts and not shorter than a comfortable walking length; and the blouse is the preferred waist, as giving greater freedom to the arms and body. For picturesque effect natty little jackets are worn over these waists made of a gav and pretty contrasting color. The English game of cricket is growing in favor on this side the water, but must be indulged in with great caution by girls not in robust health and endowed with vhat tbe boys call "staying power." The graceful game ot archery seems to have been pushed to the background by the more recently in troduced sports, and the mild-mannered croquet has gone with it, and bowling is less heard of than formerlv. I suppose the cata logue of hygienic sports would be incom plete if horseback riding were omitted, since it is commonly regarded as one of the best methods available for promoting mus cular development and imparting general tone to the system. It certainly does in spire confidence and grace of movement; fortifies nerve and stimulates tbe control of eye and hand. The art of riding well is merelv the acquirement of a firm and easy seat. 'All else is mere detail. It seems to me the hunt is the most cruel as well as the most dangerous of all sports. I can under- but how tender-hearted woman can find even a pretended pleasure in chasing to the death any living thing is beyond my mental grasp. COSTUMES FOR BIDING. In regard to riding costumes I suppose it is now a matter of taste and conviction whether we ride astride in thedivided skirt, a la Mable Jenness, or in the manner less shocking to our grandmothers. Certain it is it the question of beauty and grace arises the'verdict cannot fail to go in lavor of the conventional method. It is safe to prophesy American women will not soon adopt the high-colored habits just now popular in En gland, and which are being "pushed" by extremists over here. After riding hygienists regard dancing as the most beneficial of all exercises, if rightly indulged in, which of course applies equally to all sports. The dance dispels awkward ness and timidity; affords exercise for the development of any easy and graceful carriage, and lor that undulat ing movement that distinguishes French women, and which gives the figure grace and poise. In the case of growing girls it is not enough to turn them loose in the world, like colts in a field, for physical culture. Mere running about wildly and unchecked over hills and through meadows, though beneficial, frequently develops an awkard gait, hoydenish demeanor and round shoulders; so that unless supplemented and corrected by a daily drill, it may be produc tive ol much that is undesirable. Graceiul out of door sports, combining physical train ing with orderly movement and the disci pline which the acquirement of proficiency necessitates, are preferable to any other form ol exercise. By such methods the muscles of the body and limbs are devel oped, hand and eye educated, alertness and intelligence stimulated, pleasure evoked, fresh air inhaled and zest and joy imparted to the exertion which is wanting equally in the mere systematic practice ot gymnastics as a school task, or in the aimless scram bling over the hills and through woods. Mkq. ANOTHEB LKPEB'S BEIDE. Not Allowed to Go to Help Sister Gertrndo She Goes to Ruasi-'a Sufferers. Pall Mill liodgetO The other day a lady, dressed in a neat, simple, nurse's uniform, called at this office. On her dress she wore, to my surprise, the order of merit which is awarded by the Kussian Bed Cross Society, but which, in most cases, is not "bodily" bestowed. The lady was Miss Kate Marsden, who hopes oc start in a few days for a six months' tour through the wide dominions of the "great "White Tzar," there tto study the subject of leprosy, which has of late aroused so much attention and interest: "It came about in rather a strange way, and long before leprosy had begun to attract much notice even in the medical world. I was nurse in the Busso-Turkish war in 1877-8, and one day at Sistova I saw two lepers for the first time in my life. The sight of the disease was so loathsome, so al together appalling, and the suffering ot the poor men was so beyond anything that I had ever seen, that there and then I vowed to devote my whole life and strength to lepers, it ever the opportunity were given to me. I was spellbound, and, though every sense rote in horror against the ghastly sight, I felt at once drawn to the sufferers by an irresistable attraction. And from that day forth I have waited for the oppor tunity to fulfil the vow I made at the sight of the two Bulgarian lepers." Miss Marsden intended to go to Molokai to help Sister Bose Gertrude, out at London found none but Catholics could go there. . She belongs to the Church of En gland.! The Princess of Wales sent her to the Empress of Bnssia. "At St. Petersburg," she said, "I was ad mitted at once to the royal presence. The Empress would not let me stand for a mo ment in her presence. So I sat down even while the Empress remained standing, and she listened to all I bad to say, and when I expressed the wish to study the leper ques tion in Bussia she promised her help and the Emperor's. Tbe rest is soon told. In this folio," continued Miss Marsden, open ing out one after the other the large white sheets stamped with mighty official seals, and signed by some of the most important and powerful men in Bussia, "I have papers entitlingmetogointoallthehospitals.alltbe prisons, and to all places where I think I can find anything connected with the study of leprosy all over Bussia, Siberia, the Caucasus, and Asiatic Bussia, and to see O Jdtts Kale Marsden. THE everything, get all information I can, and take what notes and photographs I like about leprosy. What I shall find, remains to be seen, but it is beyond all doubt that the terrible disease is prevalent In all parts of tbe Empire, and to an extent which has never yet been officially ascertained." "And have you no fear of infection, Miss Marsden?" "Oh yes, I have. I am well aware of the risk I run, but is it not worth running the risk? And, reniember.I am a trained nurso with many years' experience, and shall njt neglect to take whatever precautions are possible." ONLY A PIECE OP TICKING. A Pretty Household Ornament That Is Useful nnd Not Expensive. Ladles1 Home Journal. The illustration below shows a dainty household ornament suitable for duster or work bag; and so pretty one would not imagine the foundation to be what it really is a piece of ticking 30 inches long and 12 wide. Cover each white stripe with a wide "cat-stitch," of colored embroidery silk, using any bright assortment of light and dark shades. Then, in the middle of the dark stripes of ticking, sew a row of gilt or silver tinsel. Line this piece with surah or sile sia, with an interlining of crinoline. Then with a strong thread gather the long sides and draw each up tightly and fasten. On each side put a ribbon rosette and hang by a band of ribbon passing from one bow to the other. A NEW ICE PITCHES. Pretty nnd Simple Contrirnnee That Heads Offtlie Gcrmi Eflccinally. Ladles Uome Journal. 1 The development of the germ theory of disease has given a most unenviable repu tation to the American ice pitcher. When one stops to consider that ice is cut on ponds, etc., in the nature of things largely impregnated with impurities, oftener than not with sewage matter from the surround ing district; and learns that tbe most dan gerous disease germs are thus liable to be in the water; that they are not killed by freez ing, and that they multiply in melted ice with enormous rapidity, something to get rid of them is very acceptable. And now mes the fertile inventor with a water cooler that does away with the risk: of con taminating drinking water with impure ice, and fairly challenges the admiration of the biological professor himself; and could any thing be simpler or nicer? The cut-glass pitcher, with silver trimmings, is of a shape not easy to upset. Inside is the tightly stoppered cylinder for cracked ice, made re movable to insure perfect cleanliness. This last point is of prime importance in water pitchers of all kinds, and is quite too often overlooked. Germs are found in creater or less numbers in all water, and whether actual disease-producing bacteria or not, they are better out of the system than iu. They increase rapidly in water that is al lowed to stand; henee it is easy to see that hyciene demands that water pitchers should be faithfully cleansed each time they are emptied. TAKES THE POETBY OUT. Sherman Didn't Rldethe Flory Steeds ArtUts Draw but Proanlc Males, Judge Joseph Cox tells a - Cincinnati paper that General Sherman said to him once: "Cox, a mule is the easiest animal to ride in the world. I always preferred to ride one during tbe war. In a picture representing the burning of Atlanta the artist has me seated on a fiery steed, with fury in his eyes, etc, while the houses are burning and the soldiers are tearing up the railroad iron. "Well, I was there; but was not on a prancing horse, but I was straddle of a plain, common, everyday mule." LATE LONDON FANCIES. The Newest Dreeeen, Hat nnd Stockings nnd Fine Art Work In Screens. Stockings are getting gaudy. One of the newest has a mottled front In various shades of flesh color. I hear that Mary Anderson's trosseau is be ing made in Paris. No English dressmaker seems to have had any orders for the brilliant gar ments that It Is expected of a successful actress to display at her wedding. The Princess of Wales wore a boa of cock's feathers at the troonlng of the colors last week. The next afternoon the shopkeepers were be seleed with demands for the same article. It Is newer and far more costly than the ordinary marabout or ostrich feather boas. Uibds bare not forsaken hats nor dresses either. A dress in silver grey satin with chiffon draperies embroidered in white bad a bird on each shoulder nestling among soft white feathers and bunches of bebe ribbon. An other bird peeped from among the folds ot the nchn. Two pretty frocks for tbe Marquis of Chol mondeley's little girl were shown mo. One was In tussore silk, smocked atlthe neck and waist and in tbe center of tbe sleeve with gold; tbe other was in soft grey silk, with a sasb. There are no prettier models than these for children. Most of tbe dresses Imported from Paris are copies ot women's dresses in miniature. I see some over-aressed. precocious-looking cbildren actually wearing lee-of-tnutton velvet sleeves. Their bodices, too, are just as complicated as their mothers'. What lovely creations of silk and fancy work the lire screens of the season are) The designs are very realistic One ii a huge pansy blossom, in which tbe petals are exactly imi tated, with perhaps any perched on tbe edge. One is a trellis-work gate with Ivy climbing over It and a froR climbing un the fide. A third Is a lyre with golden strings. 1 saw these de signs in Regent street. Some of them are beautifully draped in old-gold and green, and old-rose silks, and tbe majority of them have a shelf for a few flowers. These screens leave the familiar photo frames far behind for decorative purDnarifailMaU Budget. PITTSBURG DISPATCH, HOW TO MAKE SALADS Delicacies That Delighted the Epi cures of Ancient Times. DISRAELI AND THE CDCUHBER. The Famous Friz3 Recipe in a Contest Gotten Up ljt Labouchere. DIRECTIONS FROM ELLICE SEREKA. 1WB1TTES FOB THK SISFATCn.l The use of salads, as prepared from herbs, is of the highest antiquity, and mention of them in one form or another has been made by the most eminent writers. Pliny, the naturalist, gives some recipes for the preparation of greens; and, of the poets, Virgil sings of endive and parsley. Allusions to salaOs, both prepared and unprepared, are made by Shakes peare. Among the most familiar and hack neyed is the expression in which Cleopatra so artfully reminds Charmian of "my salad days; when I was green in Judgment." Shakespeare knew all about salads and heir proper qualities. Hostess Quickly tells Falstaffthat prawns with vinegar were ill for a green wonnd. Indeed, some very eminent literary men have even gone so far as to prepare recipes for favorite salads. The Bev. Sydney Smith reduced one to verse, as lollows: Two large potatoes passed through kitchen sieve. Smoothness and softness to tbe salad give; Of mordaunt mustard add a single spoon Distrust the condiment that bites too soon But deem it not, tbo man of herbs, a fault To add a double quantity of salt. Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, And twice with vinegar procured from town; True flavor needs it, ana yonr poet begs Tbo pounded yellow of two well boiled eggs. Let onion atoms lurk within tbe bowl. And, scarce suspected, animate the whole. And, lastly, in the flavored compound toss A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce. OI great and glorious; ohl herbaceous treat! 'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat. Back to the world be'd turn bis weary soul, And plunge his fingers in the slad bowl. DISRAELI'S TREATMENT OP CUCUMBERS. Benjamin Disraeli, himself a famous epicute, has humorously narrated in "Vivian Grey" how the Prime Minister Beckendorff instructed Mr. Von Fhillipson to prepare the cucumber, and how to treat it when prepared. Prince Metternich, one of the most famous of modern diplomats, is said to have been the original of this char acter. He died not so loug ago, in extreme old age. and in the enjoyment, to tbe last, of all his facnlties. He was noted for being extremely abstemious in his diet "I never eat them myself; but I'll tell you, if you like," said Mr. Beckendorff, "which I think the best way of treating a cucumber. You roust be careful to pick out the straightest, thinnest-skinned, most seed less cucumber that you can find. Six hours before you want to eat it, put tbe stalk in cold water on a marble slab not the whole cucumber that's nonsense. Then pare it very carefully, so as to take off all the green outside and no wore. Slice it as thin as possible, spread it over your dish and sprinkle it with a good deal of white pepper, red pepper, salt and mustard seed. Mix some oil and common vinegar with a little Chili and drown it in them. Open a large window very wide and throw it all out." Most will regard the conclusion as a very unsatisfactory one, and will not by any means consent to the advice therein given. A few years ago, iu England, a prise was offered for the best salad. Mr. Labouchere, a member of Parliament and distinguished journalist, was the moving spirit in this con test. He selected some ot the most expert connoisseurs to determine which, in their judgment, was the mos satisfactory. There were many competitors, but it was decided that the one below given was entitled to the prixe and their favorable mention. THE FAMOUS PRIZE SALAD. From 6 cabbage lettuces remove theouterand coarse leaves, and strip from tbe remaining ones tbe good part. Tbe piece should be from 2 to 3 Inches long, and may be broken up, but not cut. Wash tbem and let them remain in cold water about one half hour. Rinse in a second water and swing in a nap kin until dry. For dressing take tbe yolks of two bard-boiled eggs and crush them to paste in a bowl, adding tablespoonful of French vinegar, 3 mustard spoons of mustard, 1 salt spoon of salt; beat well together, then add by degrees 6 or 8 table spoonfuls of Lucca or Provence oil, 1 of vine ear, and when thoroughly mixed a little tarra gon finely chopped, a dessert spoon of coarse white pepper, as pepper in powder irritates the palate. When all Is well mixed, place the salad In it and turn over and over again, thoroughly and patiently, till there remains not one drop of the liquid at the bottom of tbe bowL Put the white ol tbe eggs in slices on the top and serve shortly alter it is mixed. There might indeed be gathered qnite a quantity of reading ou this subject, collated from the literature, we suppose, of every people. All the modern Europeans have in their several languages, proverbial expres sions and homely rules which are pertinent, pointed and of long standing. The wisdom which the Spaniards condensed in the cele- Lbrated proverb which is still current among tnem, coma not nave oeen acquirea oniy alter long experience "A spendthrift for the oil, a miser for the vinegar, a lawyer for the seasoning, and a madman to stir it to gether." The French have a complimentary phrase which is traceable to a time in which customs were different from ours. In those days when the salad was prepared at table the youngest and prettiest girl had the honor' of stirring it, which, ot course, she did with her fingers. Hence they say, Betourncr la salade avec les doigts to signify that a woman is stilt young and handsome. THE USE OP OLIVE OIL. The necessity among the masses of the people throughout England no donbt has stimulated the inventive faculty In the mat ter oi devising so many combinations of cheap, homely and wholesome food. It is not to be wondered at that for salad making these people should be distinguished. Olive oil, without which no southern European would thing of making a salad, is with them very plentiful. The Spaniards use it more profusely than any others the Ital ians next. The French, however, excel all for salads which are palatable, and in which the Ingredients better blend. And they, with their usual economy, are known to put into the salad bowl herbs we would never think of using for such purpose. The Ger mans are not much given to the use of oil. Many of their salads are eaten warm or wilted, and they often preler to have one special ingredient, as onion or garlic, for instance, predominate over the rest. Most of their salads are made very sour. The English more tnau any other use vin egar in their salads, and the quantity they use is out of all proportion to tbe oil. It therefore follows that each of these people have a way and method ol their own in the making oi salads generally, but it will not be inferred that tbey differ materially in making any particular salad. Of the dif ferent methods of making salads tbe un doubted preference of the Americans is for the French method. By common consent it is taken ehe best, and it it daily growing in iavor. THE FRENCH METHOD. Strip from lettuce heads the best leaves and immerse in ice water. Handle with care in washing and remove to a second water. Put in a cool place and do not disturb for one-half hour. Now place the leaves gently lu a wire lettuce basket, or In a clean towel, and swing to and fro with regular, rapid motion, but with as little force as possible, until dr. Arrange the lettuce in a suad bowl, pour over the French dressing, and nora otb.t, loss with a wooden fork, garnish and rve at once. The dietetic Talue. of many of the com monest articles that may enter into the composition of salads is probably not so generally kuown as it might be. An emi nent physician lately said that it was as natural ior us in our climate to. use fruits and vegetables as it is for the Esanimo or I the Bussian to tug walrus blubber or whale oil. In the warm season there is a era vine SUNDAY, JUNE 15, of nature which is best satisfied by timely and seasonable food after nature's own liking. , It is needless to say that for salads none but the freshest material must be ted, and in handling the touch must be very light, as the least bruise on these tender leaves will destroy their beauty. For this reason it is said some of the noted French cooks never wash the lettuce, but MERELY SPONGE IT, each leaf separately, in the most careful manner. The leaves must not be cut, but torn in pieces, not too small. Avoid the use of too much vinegar, a common fault. A safe rule to observe is five taolespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar. Lemon and sonr orange juice are used by many cooks with or with out vinegar. Use a wooden spoon to 6tir and a wooden fork to toss. The garnishment of the salad is a very important feature, and requires taste, skill, au eye to color, nnd considerable ingenuity when green things are scarce. Nasturtium blossoms dotted over the bright green let tuce form a striking contrast. Cold boiled beets make a pretty border for potato salad; celery tops, parsley, cress and lettuce hearts are in high favor for chicken, veal and to mato salads. Use thinly-sliced lemon for lobster, sardine, salmon and fish salads gen ally. Smilax, geranium and nasturtium leaves are also used with very fine effect. Ice balls for salads are made by crushing fee very fine In a clean, coarse towel and pressing into shape with the hands. The dainty work of salad-making, so hon ored in the olden time, is no mean accom plishment, and should be carefully culti vated by all the fair ladies in tbe land. FRENCH DRESSING. One tablespoonful of vinegar, five table spoonfnls of best olive oil, one-half teaspoon ful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of black pepper. . Mix the oil, pepper and salt together, and tben add vinegar: Stir through this a lump of ice. Epicures use the French dressing exclusively for such salads as lettuce, asparagus, peas, beans, cress, dandelions, etc. They condemn severely the use of butter, sugar, mustard ana milk for such salads. MAYONNAISE DRKSSINO. One tablespoonful of mustard, one teacupful of sucar, one-tenth teaspoonful of cayenne, one teaspoonful of salt, the yolks of three raw eggs tho juice of one-half lemon, one-fourth cupful of vineear. one pint pure olive oil and one cup ful of whipped cream. .,,,.. Beat the yolks and dry ingredients until light and thick. ... Place the bowl In which the dressing Is made In a pan of ice water during the beating. Add the oil gradually, just a drop or two at a time. Whan the dressing becomes so thick that it Is hard to turn add a little of the vinegar. When tbe last of the oil and vinegar are added the dressing should bo very thick; now add tbe lemon juice and whipped cream. SALAD DRESSING WITHOUT OIL. Tbe yolks of two hard-boiled eges, rnbbed smooth; one teaspoonful of mustard: a dash of cayenne, with salt and pepper to taste; five tea spoonfuls of cream; one teaspoonful of vinegar. Mix well. SALAD CBBA3I. One-fourth cupful of butter, one-fourth cup ful or sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, one tea spoonful of mustard, a dash of cayenne pepper, one-half cupful of cream, three-fourths ot a cupful of vinegar (boiling), four eggs. Cream together tbe butter, sucar and condi ments, add the eggs, one at a time, beating well. Now add the cream, and tben the vinegar. Put the sauce-pan. witb tbe dressing. In a pot of boiling water, and stir until almost boiling. This is excellent for cabbage, veal, potato ana chicken salads. CHICKEN SALAD. Boll one chicken until very tender, adding a little salt wben It is auout nan done. Set away to cool In tho broth. Wben quite cold remove the skin and the fat, cut into small pieces do not mince it and add about twice tbe quantity of chopped celery. Cover with salad dressing and toss with a fnrlr. Cold-boiled veal is an excellent substitute, if chickens are scarce. ASPARAGUS SALAD. Boil the asparagus, not too tenderly. Set away to cool, and then serve with French dressing, CABBAGE SALAD. One head of solid, sweet cabbage. Cut very fine with slaw-cutter or very sharp knife. Pound thoroughly to extract the juice. For dressing take the yolks of three hard boiled eggs rubbed smooth, a teaspoonful each of salt, pepper, mustard, and sugar, one tea cupful of vinegar, one teacupful of milk or cream, or two tablespoonfuls of olivo oil, a dash of cayenne. Mix tocether and pour over the cabbage. Tbe addition of two or three bunches of chopped celery, or a little.celeryseedis quite an improvement to this salad. POTATO SALAD. One qnart of hot, boiled potatoes cut Into small cubes or pieces, two medium-sized onions minced fine, two or three bunches of chopped celery, one tablespoonful of minced parsley. Toss together with a fork, lightly, being care ful not to break tbe potatoes Cover with salad dressing and again mix gently. Do not serve until quite cold. If a cpoked dressing is used, let it get cold be fore pouring over the ingredients. Tbe potatoes for salad should not be boiled until mealy. Twenty-five miuutes will be long enough. , SALAD FOR SMALL GAME. Select sweet, crisp celery, cut In small pieces and serve witb French dressing. "WATER CRESS SALAD. Wash the cress carefully; shake until dry. Place the choicest sprigs in a salad bowl and garnish with small lettuce leaves. Make a dressing of three parts olive oil and two parts tarragon vinegar, a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Ellice Serena. HOW PHHUHMira AttTi MADE. Distillation, Permentatlon and Even Boiling In Lard Kesortod to. Pall Mall Budget. J Those dainty, delicate perfumes which the superfine and the vulgar alike enjoy, are obtained in a very prosaic way; They are produced in a land where the flowers are perennial. In distillation the flowers are boiled in an hermetically sealed capper ves sel. The steam as it condenses in its passage through a spiral coil exudes the volatile essence drop by drop, and it is collected in a small glass vessel. The water in tbe copper retains a small portion of the scent and be comes the rose water or orange-flower water of trade. All flowers are not susceptible of this treatment, and those that are produce but a minute quantity, the orange flower, for instance, giving but one-thousandth part. The volatile essences thus obtained, combined and mixed together witb a certain quantity of alcohol, are used in the prepara tion and as the basis of eau de Cologne, toilet vinegar, lavender water, ete. The perfume from flowers which do not contain the volatile essence is extracted by two processes. In the first or cold process, cassie, jessamine, jonquils tuberoses, violets, and some other flowers, freshly gathered, are placed upon a layer of pure lard, a quarter of an inch in thickness, spread over glass trays. The flowers are changed every 12, 18 or 21 hours, according to circum stances, until the lard is sufficiently charged with perfume. Jessamine and tuberose are changed as often as CO times, and the other flowers from 20 to 30 times. When the hot process is resorted to grease is placed in a copper vessel, together with the flowers, and tbe compound is boiled. Additional flowers are added from time to time until tho fat has absorbed the requisite amount of perfume. By another process the perfumes are extracted from the fats, and by blending these with the different essences, the numerous scents are obtained. Certain perfumes which are of great use in the manufacture ot scents can only be obtained by the fermentation of fruits, flowers, and roots. A HAJLSTOHE STOEY. It Serve Well to Bring Home tbo Ico Sltn tlon In the Gas City. "The ice problem was brought home to me very forcibly the other day." said a well known Pittsbnrger. "I was about to enter one of the big business blocks when my foot knocked against something hard. Bending down to look for the obstruction, I discov ered, after a searching investigation, that it wus the daily piece ot ice left there to cool the water which the bnsy men inside in variably use to quench their thirst An attache of the building, who was passing at the time, remarked to me sarcastically, That's the biggest hailstone I've seen this 1890. -w- BEAUTY Iff THE HOME. Some of the Latest Ideas for tbe Deco ration of Interiors. KNOTTED COEDS FOR PORTIERES. Fabrics That Cost Trifles Compared With Trices Tears Ago. FINE SOFA CDSHIONS IN PfiOFDSION rwBimx ron thi dispatch.) It was not many years ago when folks at this time of the year put away their home decorations, bared their walls, stripped their floors and awaited fly time and tbe dog days in deserted, desolate quarters. This is all changed now, and tbe summer furnishings are a decidedly important factor with the trade and people. To be sure woolen stuffs are usually packed away, but there are lots of pretty things made in cottons and silk and cotton; and with screens at the window and doors those dainty furnishings can be kept harmless from flies. A few years ago bead portieres were nov elties, and sold for 510 and 515 apiece. They hung in strings with tbe beads ar ranged in such colors as to form charming designs. To-day you can buy them for 51, and excellent substitutes in bamboo strips for as little as 51 50; in summer, doors are taken down from all rooms, except tbe bed rooms, and these cheap and artistic por tieres from Japan and China are hung in stead. Then, again, some beautiful door way and window portieres for summer are made of knotted cord. Not exactly like the macrame work that was -so popular some years ago, but heavier, the size of a clothes line, tied or knotted into fretwork shapes for a top piece and then hung in pendant ends, knotted here and there, so as to form designs. All these lengths of cord hang straight from the little decorative rope fretwork at the top, which is frequently stiffened by glue and painted white and gold or some 'other shades; the rope pendants, however, should be as flabby as possible. Tbe knots which are tied to give a decorative appearance here and there may be gilded or painted, and with taste some charming effects are thus produced. COTTON SUBSTITUTE FOB SILKS. Some three or four years ago what were termed Liberty silks and China silks were A CEAJ5E TOR brought over to this country and sold for something like 51 25 a yard, 36 inches wide. They were used for summer drapines, easel scarfs or purposes of that sort. To-day the same effects can be had in cottons at 15 centsayard finished in a silken luster.andat a short distance you can't tell them from the genuine silk. Curtains of this stuff are made without any trouble by merely cutting off six or eight feet ot the piece goods and sewing upon the inner side and bottom a little cotton ball fringe. t If your fabric is, for instance, terra-cotta with white designs, have your ball fringe alternate, one ball white, one ball terra cotta. A good way of securing a valance top, as it is called, is by making the curtain about a foot and a hall longer than usual, and bv adding the fringe along this top as well a's sides and bottom; then by throwing the top over the pole, allowing it to hang down over the curtain for a foot or so, you have a valance. Ask for cotton dranery Fortlere of Knotted Cords. prints. There are many different names for this sort of thing, but the above term covers them all. Beady-made curtains, fringe and all, can be bought for 52 a pair. Nothing cheap looking about tbem, but highly artistic, and solt delicate lady colors. NOVELTIES IN LACE. In lace curtains, I saw the other day an absolute noveltv. Nottinghams made in colors. Pink Nottinghams, blue Notting hams.' and all other shades. I saw Notting hams too that were made in absolute imita tions of Brussels style and pattern, so much so that a J5 Nottingham at a distance of five feet you could not tell from a 550 Brussels. A lew years ago, the housewife wanting a lace curtain, had only to choose between Brussels, Swiss and a Nottingham, Now there are endless varieties. Muslin curtains, beautiful things for 53 50 to 56 a fiair, that can be washed and done up like a inen skirt; Casabane curtains made of ap pliqued corded designs upon an ecru netted background, big floral patterns, Irish point curtains and Irish ppint imitations, with patterns in cotton, cut out and appliquedon to a plain Swiss net background with cord edging. I saw last week a genuine Brus sels lor 57. Think of this! ye who used to pay 5200 a pair loryour Brussels and $50 ior "something cheap." REAL TURKISH BUGS. People have asked me before now if the rugs which you buy in the auction stores are really Turkish rugs. They most certainly are. and they are generally auite at (rood ex amples at yon can find anywhere else, but I TTTTTITt' il 1 1 f 1 f Ml 1 I regret to say that the colorings in all these goods which now come from the Orient are deteriorating. TJp to about nine years ago, the colors that were used were native colors, but as the demand increased it stimulated investment of English capital and the erection of British factory enterprises, both in India. Turkey and Persia. Then English dyes were used, and many of the goods which now come to this country are in very perishable colors. Borne of the cotton por tieres fade like a dish-cloth, and it is always well to insist upon it that the colors are guarantred. ... .. Beware of the philanthropic dealer, the man or woman who represents that their goods are gathered by tbe "Association of Oriental Philanthropists" or the "Society for the Elevation of the Unfortunate Turk." A JPrtilu Door JlanttU You don't have to go to the Orient to fiad Oriental rug weaving, any more than you have to eo to Kidderminster to find Kidder minster carpets, or to Brussels to find Brus sels carpets, or to Nottingham for Notting ham curtain's. There are Turks in New York to-day making Turkish rugs. There is a firm up in Pennsylvania making Notting ham curtains, and altogether there are a dezen ormore Brussels carpet manufacturers in America, while Kidderminster fabrics, more commonly known as ingrains, are Philadelphia's standby. BORROWED FEOH THE ORIENT. During the next year or so there will be a craze for sofa cushions. Low-aown wide lounges or permanently built divans, in cosy corners in bay windows or alcoves, will be literally strewn with sofa cushions, slumber rolls, head-rests, etc, in the various styles; bolster shapes, high rests and wide flat pil lows. The fashion is borrowed from the Orient and promises to be- everywhere adopted. The cushions will be in all colors and will serve to lighten and brighten up a dead and dreary room. Head-rests for the backs of chairs will stand out in a bright glint of blue, ereen or orange, just a degree sharper and more brilliant than the cor- SOFA CUSHIONS. responding colors in the room. The idea is to supply in this sort of thing, the sharp bits of color, which we have here tofore got from our bric-a-brac. For in stance, tbe other day, I dropped into a house uptown and from the moment I entered there was a dullness about the es tablishment which was absolutely depress ing. Everything was in good taste, but un mistakably' quiet. The occupants had made an evident struggle for a quiet effect, and had gone too far. There was something wanting. As a remedy I suggested that at the head of the stairway a huge big jardi niere of a glorious cardinal hue be put. It was done and this one bright flash of color ing relieved the whole aspect. So these sofa cushions here and there throughout tbe house will have this same effect. They will brighten up an apartment and make it cheery. OUT OV THE OLD RUT. The old-time way of draping a curtain back by the means of little metal chains or cords and tassels or silk ribbons, has become monotonous to the eye. An excellent way of doing it now is by attaching a flat metal lic plate or ribbon bow or rosette appliqued on to yonr curtain about three or four feet from tbe ground and a foot or so from the inner edge. To this, attach your draocry cord, both back and front of the curtain, and then draw the curtain back and slightly upward. The effect is strikingly odd and certainly different from the old-time ways. Thereis nothing which gives a quicker impression of comfort and elegance than an over-doorwaymantel with a simple railing around it and a huge plaque or two or three pieces of pottery surmounting it. A curtain or portiere can then be suspended from the bottom. This makes a vast difference in a room, for a doorway top is generally a much neglected feature. In a corner in the hall way this can be done in the same way, and if it is sufficiently dark to conceal the de ception, I would suggest that instead of wood fretwork you would use some or the stamped paper that is produced at a trifling cost, and which has every appearance of wood, being perforated and serrated in close imitation. Extreme taste now pales at white and gold furniture nnd the French styles, and demands Chippendale and Sheraton desks, chairs and sofas. 'With the less critical the French styles, Iionis XIT., XV. and Louis XVI. are still the rage." C. B. Cliitobd. A LOST 1OCOM0TTVB. Sixty-live Tone of Steel nnd Iron Sink In Fortr Feet of Mad. At fl-in tfrsnclsca the other dav workmen ' were trying to run a locomotive on board the British steamer Wellington for transfer to the Esquimalt and Nanaimo Bailroad. The locomotive had been landed from the cars onto a platform on the dock, and the steamer made fast alongside the wharf, port side to. A stout eangway was built from the dock over which the locoitotive could be transferred to the ship, but while it was being lowered the tackle snapped and the locomotive broke loose. It tore across the deck, crashed through the iron bulwarks on the starboard side and fell into the bay. The Jocomotive weighed 65 tons, and sunk so far in the mud, which is there about 40 leet deep, that it could not be found when sounded for the next day. Mrs. Canfleld'a Sad Mistake. ""Women should be elected to office, even if they can't read or writs," said Mia. Can field, of Kansas. There ore, when she ran for school inspector, the opposition i put up a colored woman who couldn't tell "B from "X Y," and the waa elected bv a thumping majority. Mrs. Canfield has left the Bute la disgust. OUR SERTANT GIRLS. Pittsburg Seems Favorable to the Training School Idea. PROGRESS IN THE QUAKER CITY. A Talk With the Lady Who is at the Heael of the New Movement. THE METHODS ADOPTED IN EDE0PB The question uppermost in the minds of a great many housewives at present is the so lution of the servant girl problem. At some time or other every lady has experienced considerable trouble In securing a good girl for household work, one who would meet every requirement and who was not unrea sonable about the compensation she was to receive. A good servant is a blessing, but from the many complaints now adays abont the indifferent work of the housemaid, it seems that this bless ing is conferred on a very few. To get a girl who does not want a night off seven nights in the week, and who is con tent without entertaining her beau in the best room the mansion affords, while the dauehter of her mistress; has to do the honors in a less pretentious apartment and to explain to her caller that the painter and carpet men are engaged in renovating the parlor, is not the easiest thing imaginable. This state of affairs exists in a great many households and the mistress of the house is afraid to say anything to her servant, for, outside of the presumptive liberties she takes, she is an ideal hojse girl and an exsellent worker. In this way matters continue without any reform. If tbe lady of the house lays down rigid rules and enforces them, the servant in many cases gives up her position, disgnsted with the life of a servant and enters the factory or workshop. THE SOLUTION IN PHILADE LPHIA. Philadelphia is the first place in America to attempt a reform of the system of employ ing housemaids on this side of the Atlantic. A number of prominent ladies of this city have formed themselves into a society to establish a training school, where all girls who are unable to make a living in any other calling will be received and instructed in the duties that would devolve upon them in the management of a home. Mrs. M. A. Boberts, who was commissioner for Penn sylvania to the Paris Exposition, has ac cepted the Chairmanship of, the Executive Committee of this society, which is called the Fidelity Servant Girl Reform. Associa tion. In a recent interview she tells of her investigations in London and Paris. "London has taken theinitial step toward bringing abont this much needed reform," said Mrs. Boberts. "There are in that city four large training schools for servants, which are controlled by Lady Kinnaird and Mrs. Meredith. These two ladies supervise the schools, but other public-spirited philanthropists advocate the reform movement. Among the noted pub lic people interested Lord and Lady Aber deen, Mrs. Sheldon Amos, Mrs. Ormiston Chant and Lord and Lady Badstock, who all devote considerable time to the schools. These institutions have been in operation for a long time in London, and have been in strumental in saving hundreds of young girls from ruination. "At Paris they have three large schools. The Countess de Manin and Miss de Broea are at the head of these schools, and they re ceive the hearty support of tbe community in the task they have undertrken. A SHORT SUPPLY IN AMERICA, i "This cannot be done iu America, how ever," the lady said, "as the supply ot good servants does not equal tbe demand, and on this account the necessity of having schools in America is apparent. In London and Paris two servants are engaged while one would be considered sufficient in this coun try. "We make our greatest mistake in not employing enough to do the work and pay ing too high wages. We are in earnest about the training school to be erected in Philadelphia. The gentlemen of the Fidel ity Association are doing their utmost to make tbe enterprise a grand success, and we are counting upon the co-operation of the housewives for their hearty suDnort in the movement. I have now about 35 corre spondents in all parts of the worldengaged in this reform movement, and I intend to adopt the most efficient methods lh the run ning of our school. We confidently expeet to have our institute open by the 1st of Oc tober at the latest." In order to ascertain how the movement was regarded in this city a reporter visited the "Women's Exchange on Penn avenue. Tbe lady conducting the exchange said: "An enterprise of this kind should unques tionably be productive of good results. Every day we hear our customers complain ing about their housemaids. If we had a like institution in this city it would over come all this dissatisfaction. The plan is certainly a good one and would be a boon to the ladies of Pittsburg." A call was made at the different employ ment office? to get the views of these agents. They all admitted the plan was a.good one; several of tbem admitted if snch an idea was carried into execution it would practic ally annihilate the employment agency business, while others thought that there was not enough backing ic this city to insure the success of the project. A gentleman living at Shadyside was en countered at one of the offices. He had just left some money for a girl that he hired a few days ago, and who left his house be cause she was not allowed to run things to suit herself. The gentleman said: ONE man's exfebiencx. "Why, I will duplicate tbe largest sub scription made for anything of this kind. I am weary running around after servant girls. I employ four at my house and I tnink they have good positions. My wife is an invalid and leaves me to manage tbe house. I get so completely disgusted with the servants that I discharge tbem all some times and here I am in quest of others to fill their places. The wrongs they perpetrate are innumerable, and the Training School cannot get started too coon for me. Now they recommended a girl to me here a few days ago and said she would do everything that I wanted her for. I took her home and to my disgust she would not do anything. Consequently I had to resort again to the employment office for another servant, and they cannot furnish me with anything bnt an inexperienced per son. I have had so many green hands that I have learned it is a dead loss to take any person but one wbo has had experience. These giris .invariably want to run yonr house. I tell you it is a shame," said the gentleman, as he walked off swearing like trooper at his misfortune. In speaking of P"f burg having a train ing school like Philadelphia, tbe wife ot a prominent broker, living in tbe East End, said "It will be a great benefit to tbe ladies of Pittsburg, and I myselt will do all that is possible for the movement. The object in view is a good one, and I think such an in stitution would certainly influence the moral of young girls and adapt them to a position, which, in my opinion, I consider a more honorable one than they conld get in the factories or workshops. I have experi enced great trouble in securing a good girl. In many cases their demands are so un reasonable that It is impossible to comply with tbem. "Now I have a friend living down the Fort Wayne road," the lady continued, "wbo has to my personal knowledge made a trip to the city every week for the past few months to obtain a servant. Tt is impossi ble to get a good maid to go out of the city. I hope the movement will soon get under way here." Many other ladies were visited, and al though tbey requested that their names be not used, they all expressed themsslvea freely u favorable to a. tr-inintr school. All I that seems necessary is an eaergtuo iesu- j -5 MKBBL m ctft3pHiEBMHBH j j?eWBBPllPPI ye3iiSisjyisslejpes
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers