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IOVING HUSBA5DS GONE ASTRAY.
Some of the 4wfnl Cruelties Perpetrated
Upon the Gentler Sex Throneb Mon's
High Opinion of I1U Own Judgment
Hlnta for Pretty Simmrr Costnmes,
rSTEITTEX FOB TBS DISPATCH.!
OW few men
there are that can
suitably select
wearing apparel
for women, and
yet there are men
who seem to en
joy buying more
than Riving the
wife money with
which to make
her dress pur
chases. I think
I 1 1
this frequently comes from the mistaken
idea on the man's part, that he can and will
buy more economically than his wife. There
has been so much jesting in regard to the
? " "extravagance of women that men have come
to religiously believe in it Once in a while
a man will be heard to say: "Well, I must
admit my wife can drive a better bargain
H than I can," but the man who makes that
i admission is the exception that proves the
rule.
However, I think ;s wife would hardly
appreciate the compliment fie no doubt in
tended, for no woman of refinement ever
tries to "drive a bargain" by so much as:
"And that is the very least you can take for
it?" Neither does she "fib" to getaway
from an importunate clerk; nor buy what
she does not want; she simply examines the
roods, inquires the price, buys if it is what
the needs, aud is, in her opinion, worth the
money; bat if it fall short in these regards
so amount of blandishments will induce her
to make the purchase; she simply smiles
upon the clerk for his trouble, aud with a
"thank you, this is not jnst what I want;
I will look farther before deciding," passes
on to another department or out of the store,
leaving the clerk as unruffled as if he had
made the sale, and wondering why every
person cannot know what they want and be
courteous when trying to find it.
I HOWJLlLiXBUTS.
When a man enters a store it is with a
. mind made up to buy, and to bur on short or
der, and the first thing shown him that comes
any wars near answering to his demand,
especially if the clerk assures bim "it's all
the rage; can't keep enough in stock to sup
ply the demand;" pays two prices for the ar
ticle, then hurries home to tell his
wile it took him iust ten min
utes to make the purchase and then he
wi 11 want to
Wager the price
of bis investment
that she would
Lave spent the
entire morning
in the store be
fore sbe conld
bare settled defi
nitely upon
any one thing.
The fact that she
groaned in men
tal agony when
she sees the color
one she knows
will be ruinous
to her complex
ion; one she has
alwars avoided
os she would a
pestilence and
that she shows
bim a purchase
she has made
that is better
suited to her; of
better quality
and cost less
money, does not
prevent him
from doing the
tame thing
over again
when the pur
chasing mania
next takes pos
session of him;
for it is not
woman alone who, convinced against her
will, is of the same opinion still, as the
rhrmer would have us believe.
And what did he bur? Ten chances to
one if the purchase was a dress and in
tended to be an elegant one, the material
was plush, velvet or silk, and the color peacock-bine
or flaming redl He has a penchant
lor high colors, and as to quality, it never
enters his head that a cloth dress can be
considered elegant, or that they are as ex
pensive as silk.
TAKE THIS, TOE IS STANCE.
A few days since several ladies were in a
millinery store examining and discussing
the season's supply ol oddities in beadwear,
when our intention vias called to a man
raptly gazing at the display in the show
window. While we were agreeing that bis
thoughts at the moment would be worth
wore to us than the proverbial
penny and theorizing as to his
probable choice, if we were to make one, ho
surprised us by stepping inside, aud not the
least confused by the
three pairs of eyes,
black, indigo and
butter-milk blue
wnieh were leveled
upon him, an
nounced with no
more embarrassment
than it' be were buy
ing a tile for his own
good looking head,
tbat be wanted to
bny a bonnet for his
.wife. Wben the
lisa 1 es w o in a n en-
'quired if he saw
anything be liked,
be answered with a
mind made up that
there was one in the
window thatpleased
bis lancy; that be
had seen a girl on
the street with one
something like it
and it was quite the
i prettiest he had
I seen.
ih xuw luis man was
tine lookinc, fault
I lesslyd ess d.appir
enuy between tne
ages of 40 and SO;
evidently a man of
means and indisput
ably refined in man
ner, therefore imag
ine our horror when
instead ol the love
of a grav bonnet with pink flowers he desig
notedas'ashis "Inner," tin immense wide
spreading red crape bat, with gilt and jet
trimmings. I don't think any of us
breathed while the saleswoman was taking
that thing irom its rightful place among the
show hats; but one of our number, having
Jhe courage of her convictions, thought to
1 $
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prevent such a millinery tragedy by timidly
suggesting the hat might not suit the shape
of his wi'e's face nor her complexion; that
different faces required different shapes and
different colors, and it he would give usjin
idea of his wife's style we might assist him
in selecting.
HAD HIS OWN WAY.
Whereupon he described his "lawful
pardner" as very small, with, a face
a little thinner than this one, point
ing to the thinnest, but with
thanks to us, we were kind, etc.
be would buy this one.. And he did, and
paid a price his wife would never have been
asked to pay. He added that he never liked
his wi e's bonnets; tEey were too grave, al
ways black or brown or gray, aud shaped
like that one pointing to the material poem
in pink and gray, the thing of our idolntry.
Then ne knew the worst, and every woman's
heart among us went out in sympathy for
the poor, little thin-faced wile, mother of
his children, who doubtless would go be
hind the gift to the giver and for loTe of
the man, respect for his taste, ridiculous
though she knew it was, and caring more to
be pleasing in his tight than in the eyes of
all the world besides, would don the red ca
ricature and wear it with what grace she
could, though she lelt that she was outdo
ing any freak ou exhibition.
But after all has been said wasn't it sweet
of him and flattering to her? Wasn't it
proof that she was still young to him; no
older than the day they were married; prob
ably about the age of the girl with the other
red hat whom any of us would have wagered
was not over 20, full-faced and fresh-colored.
By the way, according to Madam
Modjeska, if the red hat had been the right
shape for the thin face, and the owner, of a
suitable age, it might have been as becom
ing a color as she could have worn. This
actress is credited with the statement that
red worn below the face deadens the com
plexion; worn above, heightens it. There
fore if one is wan-faced a ' red hat or a clus
ter of scarlet tips will, cheat Dame Nature
and shame the rouge box.
WHAT HE DOES KNOW.
But bless bis heart! the average man
knows when the ensemble pleases him,
though he cannot tell you wherein lies
the charm; and if you want whole
yards of furs, just indnce him to
describe a toilet which ,he has told you
was a "stunner." If it is not red, blue,
black or white, the chances are against his
knowing the color; and if the material is
not of silk, then he is not certain just what
it is; but he knows all abont the way it was
made. It was frilled and ruffled and plain
all at the same time; it was "bitched up"
on one side and hung down kind of
like this (here he demonstrates) on the
otber. The waist was the prettiest
part. It was "awlully" trimmed; it had
pleats and some pieces in ront that lapped
over each other, aud a buckle and some of
that what-you-call-it trimming named after
tbe tower, "don't yon know." Ob, yes,
ribbons and plenty of them but no buttons
yes, he was sure of that no buttons; any
way, none that he saw.
And yet, if there is one subject upon
which the average man thinks he is well in
formed it is the subject of woman's dress
the average man, I said. Another woman
says: "What Horace Greeley thought he
knew about farming, and what General
Grant believed he understood about finan
ciering, are insignificant wben com-
Eared to what every man is positive
e knows abont woman's attire!"
GBAY THE POPULAR COLOB.
Apropos to gray and suggested by the
gray bonnet this color, while always in
taste, was never so universally worn as at
the present, and tbat by old or young, nor
combined with such a variety of colors.
The mania for matching from top to toe can
he indulged in saiely and with cratiiying
effect without the least suggestiveness ol
monotony.
The illustrations to-day are of two pretty
models for light-weight summer fabrics.
One is a steel-gray India silk made up with
velvet a shade darker and decorated with
steel bead ornaments; a close fitting bonnet
with twist of gray crepe about the face, sur
mounted by a steel ornament. Another is
of rose-gray nu n't- veiling worn over guimpe
ot surah silk, same shade, ornamented
with fancy stitching, herring boue or
briar design. A band ot the
surah relieves the plainness ot the top skirt;
a ribbon finishes the waist, and terns the
butterfly bows on the shoulders. The hat
matches the costume perfectly in tone gray
straw, faced with tulle, trimmed with rib
bon and tips, all in the same rose gray.
In granting license to her grown up
children to wear the guimpe the mother of
fashions haa been particularly considerate.
This comfortable style has hereto ore been
the prerogative of very young people, oulv.
It is a style forwhich to be deutly thank
ful in view of tbe hot mouths to come,
when it can be made of lace, the all-over
embroidery and any ot the numerous sheer,
summer labrics or of light-weight silk as
in case of the nun's veiling costume, than
which no more, charming arrangement both
in regard to beauty and comlort could be
planned. Meg.
BEDECKED HITH POSIES.
Jnne Millinery la Gnrniabrd Wllb Flower
So Perfect That They Almost FeiTonie
Ibe All Hati for Matrons and Ollaaes
and Baby Boy The Picnic Straw.
tWBITTES FOB THB DISPATCH.!
-j-TJNE, the. month
weddings and flow
ers, witnesses an
entire change in
stylish head gear
and a great multi
plicity of gorgeous
conceits are exposed
to the gaze of the
bean monde. Apro
pos of tbe coming
"outing season" the
modistes are pre
paring the dainty,
ethereal and fragile
creations known as
tennis, picnic, seaside or neglige chapeaux.
For tennis, the jaunty joli sailleur is pre
ferred, and these are simply trimmed in a
band and bow of wide fish edged ribbon,
silk mull and quills or a scarf ol surah or
creoe dc chine. These should never have
ties and are to be worn only to and from and
during this most fascinating game.
The Dicnic hats are light in weight, light
in color and light in texture. The gav and
pretty miss, with hr so t, clinging woolen
dress, fresh complexion, loosely coiled hair,
and broad, flapping brimmed hat, presents a
picture of native loveliness. These hats are
or chip, hair braids, Milans. lace braids,
husks, moll Or French crepe, and are
trimmed in crepes, mnll, ribbons and
flowers. At the seaside resorts will soon be
gin the influx of summer visitors, and their
promenade hats will receive much admira
tion, and the selection as to their appro
priateness will be the first consideration. As
feathers and damD tea sir do not take kind-
ly to each other they are entirely out of the
-. j
question, and we look elsewhere for our
stylish garnitures
THE BOSE IS QUEEN.
Large bats, straight or bent in fantastio
forms will rule the modt. The rose is easily
the queen of flowers, and clusters of these
far-lamed beauties - are bunched and
sprayed upon the brim or careless
ly falling off at the back. Let who
will proclaim the merits of the lily, the
laurel, the tulip, or the peony, when the
rose-apnears we drop allegiance and defer to
her claims. Boses are so various in color, so'
sweet in their fragrance, so wonderful in
their beauty, and so charmingly adaptive
are their habits, blooming as radiantly by
the cottage dbor as in the palace garden,
that all the world is glad when tbe roses
open.
The lovely Baltimore belle, which grows
in palest blush clusters of such abundance,
tbe crimson Jacqueminot, tbe snowy Mabel
Morrison, the blush moss rose, and the old
fashioned, ineffably iragrant double damask
are so closely copied from nature as to flatter
her by the delicacy of their structure, and,
seemingly, to distil upon tbe hat all of the
attars of tbe East A famous New York
tielle recently wore a hat bedecked in roses
plucked from her hothouse beds, aud ber
appearance in public created a furore of
While Leghorn Flat.
admiration. Among the new colors lately
produced is a red which is almost a purple,
but which is much brighter and richer than
the dahlia shades of last winter, and is
named after Louis XIV, ana its combina
tion with a warm, vivid yellow is rather
startling at first sight.
HATS FOB THE CHILDEEN.
There is no very marked change in chil
dren's hats this season. The sme pictur
esque broad brims, shading golden curls or
dark, waving locks, bend as if burdened
under their weight of wreathed flowers or
feathers and loops ot ribbon, and the same
sailor hats are worn by boys. Fine straws
in dark and artistic colors, such as green,
brown, heliotrope, old rose, lichen-green,
gray and pale cream, are selected for girls
of all ages, in low crowned shapes with ex
tremely broad brims, and the garniture is
usually a wreath ot flowers, such as lilies
of the vallev, buttercups, dandelions,
daisies in alf colors, apple blossoms,
or mixed flowers, such as poppies, daisies,
buttercups and field grasses. t
Wreaths of ostrich feathers, in matching,
contrasting, or mixed colors are used in
stead ol flowers on many hats worn by
young girls, from 3 to 5; girls from 6 to 11
wear flower wreathes; and for older girls,
bunches of ribbon loops fastened on with
long fancy beaded bat pins are otten tbe
A Prelly Fancy.
preferred garniture. The little narrow
brimmed sailor, with a tarpaulin crown, has
obtained a firm hold upon the affections of
the young misses of tbe school girl age.
Wide-brimmed sailors, in white, colored or
fancv mixed straw, trimmed simply with
ribbons, are worn by bovs and cirls br play
hats, and blue or black Tam O'Shanters are
worn by bovs for traveling, boating, etc, as
they are not likely to be ruined by occa
sional lapses overboard.
A TM-COIiOBED FA2TCT.
The combination of three colors or three
shades of one color is a striking fancy in
London and Is greatly admired by fashion
able American women. Green, gray and
black, tan, green and black, red, yellow and
pale blue, pink and two shades oi green,
white, gray and black, heliotrope, yellow
and purple, and red, gold and black are
twisted in ropes around the crown and
trimmed in three bows of the same shades at
the back. Bed, gold and black wa one of
the favorite combinations for the costumes
of Mary Tudor, the mother ot the unfortu
nate Mary Stuart, Queen of the Scots, and
is much worn by the Spanish women of to
day. Charming garden hats for little girls are
of pink, blue, heliotrope or white lawn
shirred on reeds in a round crown, flat brim
shape and trimmed with lace-edged rnch-
A Garden Hat.
ings and rosettes of the same. Modifications
ol these pretty hats are made for baby boys,
and have wide lawn strings to tie in a bow
under the chin. The little woolen caps are
worn by girlc for tricvling.
A noteworthy summer hat, which was de
signed by an artist and must have been sug
gested by a poet, looks as if it had been
woven in an old fashioned flower garden ot
twigs thickly set with thorns. Over the
open lattice work is a long spray of lilacs,
white and purple, tied here and there with
soft lilao ribbon. Hovering over tbe flow
ers is a small gray bird. Tbe whole effect
is wonderfully spring-like and dainty, and
is especially appropriate for a lovely young
girl. A large yellow rustio straw picnic
hat, which is interesting as a freak, is bent
into an eccentric shape, and is stylishly
trimmed at the back with yellow poppies
and a bow of satin striped gauze ribbon.
Ora SeajET,
Parisian Man Milliner.
Sirs. Kondnl'o Proposed Book.
As soon as Mrs. Kendal has said "How
d'y do"" to her friends in London, she pro
poses getting out a book all about the late
visit over here. It is to be called "The
Kendals in America; or, What I Had Better
Lelt Unsaid."
Queen Vlrtorin'a While Fentbrr.
Queen Victoria is not the sort of woman
to scream at the sight of a mouse, and yet
she always shows the white feather in pub
lie. It is a dear, early, little ostrich thins
I, a.DDliet', by the court milliner.
3
"U i
ECONOMY IN COOKING.
French Epicures Find American
Dishes Poor and Extravagant.
A
LESSON FKOM ME. DELMONICO.
Ho Pood So Expensive as That to Which
Little Thought is Given.
KECIPS AND HOUSEHOLD HELPS.
rWElTIXjr FOB THB DISPATCH. 1
The French, as a people, are universally
allowed to stand highest among those of our
civilization in the knowledge and practice
of economics; and while tbey have the rep
utation of being tbe most fastidious, the
most critical and refined in the choice use of
delicate and tempting dishes, ther at the
same time have the reputation of being the
most frugal and the most provident. It is
not so inconsistent as it might seem, for
these apparently antagonistic characteristics
are only apparently antagonistic.
The Frenchman, who having made a tour
of the States has reduced his experience to
writing, or submitted to an interview, can
not desist from giving his observations on
the cookery as be has found it in our public
houses. These observations, often given in
good faith, are seldom flattering, and are
always critical. Two things he chiefly no
ticesfirst, the lack of perfect' cooking,-and
next, the needless extravagance in its
preparation or serving. In France, we
are told, good and savory food
is prepared from articles we would not
think of using here. For example, the
combs, gills and lower legs of fowls are
used to give body and to impart flavor to
many soups and hashes, much to their im
provement. It is an open secret that many
a French peasant's wife would make bounti
ful and substantial meals from the daily
waste in the kitchen of the majority of
American workmen who live on monthly
wages.
TWO tVATS TO BE ECOHOMIOAL.
Care and good judgment are to be exer
cised, not only in tbe selection of proper
articles to be used in cooking, but also in
the utilizing of everything that is brought
into tbe honse for tbat purpose. What is
economically bought may be extravagantly
used. Tbe advantage of such economy, in
its minnte details, is well known by the
most experienced masters of the art of cook
ing, who are not, by any means, necessi
tated to practice it.
A number of intelligent ladies of New
York who were desirous of supplying the
poor in a particnlar part of the city with
cheap meals, once interviewed Mr. Del
monico, the widely renowned caterer, in re
gard to the project. He instructed them
bow to make a soup at the cost of $1 that
would be sufficient for 35 people. The ex
periment was tried successfully, and not
only was a meal of soup and pudding given
at the price of 5 cents for each one served,
but this charge proved to be high enough to
cover the expense of serving it. Every
woman whose income or allowance is lim
ited must of necessity know that it is her
duty to make the most of tbe means at her
disposal. She will learn, if her heart is in
her work, that skillful and dainty cooking
is the most economical, and that no food is
so expensive as that to which little time or
thought is given for its preparation.
SPINACH.
Wash tborongbly in several waters, until en
tirely free from sand, and tben let It He ball an
hour in cold water before cooking.
Put on in hot water and boll 15 or 20 minutes,
or until it sinks.
Drain in a colander, season with salt and
pepper.
Turn into a bot frying pan, in wblcb some
bain or bacon drippings have been melted.
Serve with a garnish ot hard-boiled eggs
sliced.
ANOTHER MEIHOD.
Wash as above directed and drain well.
Put into a bot frying nan one tablespoonful
of fresh lard or bacon drippings, and lay in the
spinach, turning frequently.
After five minutes add one-half plntof stock,
and serve.
By cooking in this manner tbe color of the
spinach is preserved.
CHEESE TOAST.
Cut from a stale loaf of bread six slices about
one-half inch thick.
Beat one egg into a enpf nl of sweet milk, and
add one-balf pound of good cheese and one
tablespoonful ot batter.
Put tills mixture in a clean saucepan; set in a
pan of boiling water and stir until quite
smooth.
Place the toast on a bot platter and cover
wttn tbe dressing, to union should be added a
pinch ot cayenne.
For a change this dish can be placed in the
oven until a rich brown. It serves for luncheon
or for a dinner course.
MACEDOINE OF FEUIT.
One can pineapple thinly sliced; one can des
sicated cocoa: eight good juicy oranges peeled
and thinly sliced; one teacupf ul ot powdered
sugar.
Place in layers with sugar between.
Keep ven cold until ready to serve.
One-half the quantity for a small family.
HARD SAUCE FOB PUDDINGS.
One-half teacup butter beaten with one tea
cud powdered sucar.
Add to this mixture the white of one egg
beaten to a stiff froth.
Flavor with fruit juice, lemon or vanilla,
CHICKEN SANDWICHES.
Take thin slices of crustless bread and cut
into any desired shape.
Mince cold chicken qnite fine, season with
salt, white pepper and a dash of cajenne.
Rub in a small quantity of butter.
Serve nitb tomato salad.
CHICKEN' WITH TABTAKE SAUCE.
Select a good, tender chicken.
Cut down the back and wipo well with a damn
cloth.
Dredge with salt and pepper and cover with
moistened buiter.
Dredge thickly with cracker meal or fine
bread crumbs and bake inside down.
Cook one-half hour.
Serve with Tartare sauce.
TABTABE SATJCE.
The yolks of two raw eggs; one-half cup of
oil; three tablespoonsful vinegar; nno table
spoonful of mustard; one teapoontul of su
gar; one-fourth teasiioimlul of pepper; one tea
spnonful of salt; the juiai of one onion; one
tamespoomui oi cnoppea capers; one taDIO
spoonful of chopped pickles.
Make like majonnaise.
Add the chopped articles last
ICED TEA.
If de'ired for luncheon pnt the tea to steep in
cold water soon after breakfast, allowing one
teaspoonful tor each person and one tor the
pot.
Tea prepared in this manner has no trace of
bitterness. . .
Have a pitcher with broken ice, and put a
lump in each tumbler.
Berve without cream.
A TEW USEFUL HINTS.
To stone raisins easily.pour boiling water over
them and drain immediately. Open the raisins
and remove the seeds. This process is a quick
and easy one.
To remove the muddy taste of fresh water
fish place them in cold water, well salted, for
several hours before cooking. Lemon jnlce
gives flavor, hardens and whitens tbe flakes.
When it is necessary to cnt bot bread nso a
thin, sharp knife dipped in boiling water. Wipe
it dry, and cut the bread at once. This will pre
vent tbe slices becoming heavy. Rich cake if
cat with a hot knife will not crumble.
Hold onions under' water when preparing
them, and save your eyes.
It is an old adage in the poultry business tbat
the black-legged chicken is the best for roast,
aud the yellow or white-legged is best to boil.
Tbe feet and legs of fresh poultry are moist and
limber, and those are best which have small
bones, abort legs and white flesh. In a young
cblcken the breast bone,at tbe point toward tbe
latter end of the body, will be found soft and
pliable. In selecting a turkey choose a hen,
witb black, smooth legs. Young ducks and
geese can be judged by the windpipe; if soft
they are young; also by the feet; if red and stiff
they are old.
To remove the strong flavor of poultry wash
tbe fowl in strong soda water; rinse in cold
water aud wipe dry.
A LXO of mutton looks much better if boiled
in a coarse mnslln cloth or white netting. Boil
15 minutes to the pound.
A smaia piece of bread tied In a clean bit of
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muslin aud put into pots of vegetables, while
cooking, will prevent odors.
ElAICB SEBEWA.
CABMENCITA'S FIBST DAKCE. 33033
It Wis for Brlcnnds Who Captored Her
nud Her Skill Bot Her Free. '
My first dancing for money was before a
band of brigands, and I had no idea what
salary was to be, either, writes Carmencita
to Kate Field's Washington. When I was
15 1 was living with my annt and uncle,
who had a produce farm not very far from
Madrid, and equally near to the palace of
theEscurial. The stretch of country be
tween the capital and the wonderful palace
of Phillip IL was at that time infasted witn
banditti. I was in the habit of loading a
donkey with fresh eggs and vegetables for
the priests who have charge ot the church
which is above the vaults wnere the dead
Kings and Queens of Spain are lying.
On one particular morning I was proceed
ing slowlv with my donkey, when I was
suddenly surrounded by fierce-looking men,
and in a" few minutes was hurried down a
rockv path into some dark woods. Present
ly I was pushed into a cavern, where a tall
and dignified looking man, the chief of the
robb-rs, had been lying asleep. He was
awakened by our entrance, and smiled
kindly at my poor little trembling self,
asking me ray name. "Carmen," I replied
through my chattering teeth.
"Well, Carmencita, don't be frightened,
and perhaps I will let you go home soon.
I may tell you that it was the first time I
was everaddressed as "Carmencita" "little.
Carmen" just as I now call myself. So I
can truly say that I was christened by a
brigand.
Well, I sat down and watched the rob
bers making omelets of my fresh eggs and
crunching my crisp onions; and how I
wished every mouthful would choke them I
Alter awhile the chief glanced toward
where I was crouching in a corner, and,
calling me to him, made me drink a large
cup of wine, at the same time demanding to
know where I had the money for the massed.
I was soon relieved of the treasure hidden in
my bodice. I implored him not to take it,
and told him how sure would be tbe ven
veance of the holy saints if he robbed them
of their dues. Like most Spaniards, the ban
dit was truly religious. Then somebody be
gan playing' a mandolin. Whether it was
the wine I had drank or something else, I
began tapping the ground with my feet aud
nodding in time with the air.
"Ah, you dance I" cried the chief. "Now,
come, little one see if you caaaot earn back
vour mass money."
Silently I followed tbe band to a smooth
piece oi grassy ground just beyond the cav
ern. Bound this the robbers sqnatted, tailor
fashion, except two ol them, who stood on
one side strumming their instruments. I
danced as I never had betore, and I contin
ued for nearly an .hour, until I had to stop
Irom exhaustion. But, when I bad finished,
the robber chief lifted me in his arms and
kissed me, while he handed me back the
purse containing the mass money. Then he
told one of his men to bring out my donkey,
and next lie took off his hat and went around
among his band saying: "Now let us pay
Carmencita for the good breakfast she
brought us."
'I heard the clink of money falling in his
hat, and in a iew minutes he came to me
and poured in my hands a sum far larger
than I should have received irom the priests
lor my farm produce. He then escorted me
to the gates of the Escnrial, and beiore he
left he gave me a small, curiously-bent piece
of iron.
"This," said he, "will save you from all
molestations in this portion of Spain if you
ever have the fortune to meet any more gen
tlemen oi my profession." c
CABE OP THE KATR.
Advice Given by Helen Bertram, Ooo
of
tbe Prettiest Women on ibe Since.
Miss Helen Bertram, prima donna, who
joins the Howe Opera Company this week,
is one of the most beautiful young women
on the stage. Her beautiful wealth of
brown hair is a source of the keenest de
light to its possessor. She fairly revels in
it, loving to thread the shining masses
through her white fingers when it is un
bound, watching the progress of arranging
it with liveliest satisfaction and giviug little
surreptitious peeps at it as she catches her
reflection in mirror and pier glasses while
moving about.
Speaking about the care of the hair Miss
Bertra gives some valuable pointers in the
Baltirore American. "Tbe fine-toothed
couibioes mure harm than good to the hair,
it leaves the scalp irritated, injures hair
celland prepares tbe way for Iresh supplies
otgnndiuff. Wire brushes are also very
olectionable, they tear the hair, however
carefully used. A good bristle brush is
hist; neither too stiff nor too sott; it should
be used night and morning from 5 to IS min
utes, brushing every portion ot the hair
with downward strokes irom roots to ends,
being care ul not to wound any part ol the
scalp by too severe application of tbe bris
tles. Ii tti lir has grown thin or is fall
ing out del ve circulation is indicated,
and to rcu this rub the scalp briskly and
thorough ith the fingers. A mixture of
West India bay rum and pure water, in
equal quantities, rubbed well into the roots,
promotes hair growth and is excellent lor
cleansing purposes. It should be used spar
ingly, not oitener than twice a week. Clip
ping tne enas or tne nair once a month is
also recommended. This clears away tbe
'dead wood,' so to speak those 'split ends'
which are so ugly. Avoid as you would a
pestilence the many 'hair tonics,' etc, which
flood the market
"Whenever a woman speaks of having
her hair cut at 'hpw moon,' it invariably ai
lords an infinite degree of room lorjest
on the part of her friends, who deem to
misname it 'superstition.' The reason I
have for cutting hair at tbe new mooutide is
this: There are two tubes to each separate
hair; one tube contains the coloring matter
by which the hair is colored, while tbe otber
tube supplies the bair with oil.
"At tne new moon the color and the oil
recede to the inner skin of the scalp, which,
when tbe hair is cut, does not go to waste;
while ii the haii is cut at the lull moon, the
oil and the color reaches the top of the hair,
and when it is cut at this period the oil and
the color drop to the floor, thus leaving the
hair in a dry and unhealthy condition. One
or two trials will convince anyone of the
value of this plan."
PHfEBE C0TJZINS C0MPLAHTS.
now Cbonp Clerba sit In Judgment on Her
Account nnd Pnrp Them.
Miss Phmbe Couzins has delivered herself
as follows to the press: A United States
Marshal .is often compelled to advance
money from his own private purse to pay
the expenses of the District Court, and
sometimes be loses by it. His accounts are
examined by a corps of clerks in the First
Controller's office at Washington1, and
these clerks are given almost absolute
power in suspending accounts.
They sit in judgment on the Marshal's
work, and the Controller simply signs the
papers when they are sent up to him. Dur
ing my term in the Marshal's office a young
clerk suspended an item of mileage. The
Marshal is allowed 6c. a mile for bringing a
prisoner. I had a man, who was needed
immediately, brought from Cape Girardeau
to St. Louis 171 miles. The smart young
clerk nosed over a government map, saw
that there was a river route, aud he cut-the
mileage down to 118 miles.
That's tbe "way these clerks show their
zeal and enterprise aud ingenuity in order
to hold their positions. But we can't bring
prisoners by the slow river routes in this
day and time. Another time I was ordered
to bring in two men from Clayton Imme
diately The train wasn't runnintr, and I
paid $16 Out of my pocket for carriage hire.
This account was suspended by a young
clerk, who thought, perhaps, that the cars
ought to have been running for my especial
benefit.
BniifO yonr photos to be copied to Elec
trlo PtVtrait Company, 10 and 12 Sixth st.;
crayoni, water colors, etc; best work;
lowest jbrlce. . - su
r
NURSING 'THE SICK:
A Carefnlly Trepared Letter From
One Kipe In Experience.
GOOD HEWS IN THE SICK ROOM.
Qualifications Necessary to Minister to the
Patients' Wants.
P0IS0UIHG THE0DGU CARELESSNESS.
rWBICTEX roa toe DisriTcn.1
N presenting to the
readers of this paper
a few thoughts on
household nurting,
it is no more than
jnst to say that we
speak with the ex
perience to which
gray hairs bear
record and with the
anthoritv nnd H.ii.
sicrn that have come from a personal contact
with over 22,000 registered medical and sur
gical patients, in hospital and private prac
tice. The importance of carelul nursing can
hardly be overestimated. Manv times to
this, more than to medicine, is' recovery
from sickness due, and in very manv cases,
unless the skilled labor of the physician is
supplemented by this necessary auxiliary,
his labor is lost and his patient dies.
If you are to care for the sick you should
enter upon your duties with cheerfulness
and earnestness. The work is of the kind
that wears and worries if you let it wear
and worry; so at the outsetlet it be under
stood between you and your inner self that
you will not worry, and that if you wear, it
will be to wear well.
I-OyALTY TO THE PHTSICLfljr.
You have three classes of people to please
beside yourself the patient, the patient's
friends and the physician; if you satisfy
the first you generally will the others, bnt
whatever you do, be loyal to the physician
and satis y him in every reasonable possi
bility. Bemember that your work and his
are entirely distinct and separate and
yours is subordinate to his. Do
uu., iefc yoursen consciously or uncon
sciously usurp his place, and remember that
many times without him you candoabso
lutelv nothinz. Bemember also that unless
you do your work well, all bis efforts and
skill may avail nothing. If, in attempting
to carry out his instructions you have made
a mistake, do not fear or lail to promptly
tell him of it that he may help you to recti
fy any harm that might otherwise ensue.
.The work of a nurse is in one household
yV . er "rctweek.or next month.
She is permitted many liberties by virtue of
her abilities and usefulness, and has oppor
tunities for observation and knowledge con
cerning borne affairs and household secrets
not possessed by any other person. A nurse
that talks in one house about matters that
belong exclusively to another will soon be
distrusted aud dismissed. An assistant of
any kind, physician, nurse or helper, whose
habits of thought and expression are not
above retailing news and family secrets,
should step down and out of the business or
profession at once,
CONTBOIi Oy THE VOICE.
As you are wanted more for what you can
do than siy, your voice should be well
under control, clear, distinct, and also
gentle. A patient should never be obliged
to make the extra effort required to ask you
to repeat what you bare sain; adapt your
voice to the condition oi tbe patient and of
his noisy or silent surroundings. Be in
view 0' the patient, he always want to see
you when he speaks with yon. So do not
nut him to the trouble of moving to be able
to accomplish this. Do not surprise him by
abruptness; some slight motion or indistinct
sound should prelude a sentence, whose
suddenness might otherwise distress him.
To call a patient by name is the surest
way to attract his attention; especially
when this is rendered difficult by sleep,
stupor, or approaching death. Avoid
fatiguing the patient by making him listen
to stories tbat require sustained attention,
or to information tbat might distress or
annoy. Sick persons, like all well ones,
like to hear good news, and if they are able
to be told anything, let it be something that
has resulted happily to somebody.
Did you never notice that people uncon
sciously learn to love those who bring them
good news? Pave the way, therefore, for
favor and esteem in the heart ot your pa
tient by making your messages conduce to a
cheerlul Irame of mind. Do not talk to
your patient while be is standing or walk
ing; if he is verv weak the extra effort of
attention and listening will be paimul to
him.
INVALIDS ABE tnfBEASOlTABLE.
Invalids are ofteu the most unreasonable
of people. Tbey have their petty whims,
their diseased fancies, their willful discon
tents and often their perpetuulSSiscomlorts.
No nurse will undertake to argue these
away. Tbey are symptoms olten entirely
beyond the patient's control. Always con
siderately investigate their complaints, a jd,
if possible, satisly them though it may seem
utterly useless. Bear in mind that o ten
their sensibilities are, when sick, wonder
fully acute, and what mayfeem the veriest
trifle to a well person is no trifle to them.
You should be a light sleeper, waking
readily on call aud never guilty of snoring.
Farther on we shall tell you how to correct
this wretched misfortune in a patient, and
your own judgment can correct it in your
own case ii necessary. There are many oc
casions wben a nurse can economize time
for sleep ii she will school herself to waking
at the first movement of the patient, or to
waking at the expiration of a stated time.
Fewtbings are more certain than the pos
sibility ot waking after the expiration of a
stated time, as the result ol training in that
attempt.
A nurse should be well, and to be most
successful she should have no deformity;
sick persons enjoy seeing well ones; they
have enough in their own bodies to bother
them without seeing ailments in those who
attend them, or listening to any stories or
their aches or grievances; and ii you have
your sick day, avoid letting it bo known to
the patient, by look or word, without good
cause.
KINDNESS AND CONFIDENCE.
A good nurse will be full ol kindness.
And nothing is more contagions than kind
ness, unless it be confidence, and kindness
is essential to that. The kind nnrse will
control by gentleness combined with de
Us. p
Dreis and Address.
cision. She will be most decisive even
wben no one suspects tbat she is so at all.
"It is the triumph of supremacy," says that
angel of the Crimea, Florence Nightingale,
and we shall quote ber more than once, "to
become unconsciously supreme. Nowhere
is this decision more blessed than in a sick
room. The decisive nurse is never peremp
tory, never loud. Sbe is distinct, it is trne;
there is nothing more aggravating to a sick
person than ji whisper, but she is not loud.
Though quiet she never walks on tiptoe.she
never makes gestures; all is open and above
board. Sbe knows no diplomacy or finesse.
Her touch is steady and encouraging. You
never catch ber watching. She never slams
the door, of course, but she never shuts it
slowly, and she never talks behind it. She
pokes the fire skillfully, with firm, judi
cious penetration. She caresses one kind of
patient with genuine sympathy; she talks to
another as if sbe were well."
Nursing not only iucludes obedience of the
physician's orders'as to medicine, but im
plies personal thought of and attention to
everything that will augmeut the patient's
comfort, the warmth, quiet, ventilation and
cleanliness of the sick room, and the ob
servance and noting of symptoms and the
prevention of contagion.
The nurse must be intelligent and thought
ful. She must love the work, not from any
romantic idea that she is an angel of mercy,
or from the mistaken notion that it is a life
of flowery ease. She may prove herself as
welcome as an angei and find a flowerv path
way at times, but there will be times when
her work is arduous, her responsibilities
heavy, and her iabors duties.
OBEDIENCE A FIBST EEQUISITE.
There will be times when your judgment
may not coincide with the physician's or-drs-
Bemember that it is your province to
obey, and, when his orders are conditional,
use your best intelligence. "A good nurse
is very careful to do not always what seems
to her best, but what it seems to her the doc
tor will best approve." Even though von
may not see his reason, or if you know it
and disagree with It, never permit yourself
to shake your patient's confidence in him by
any look or word oi criticism. The nurse is
the connecting link between the patient and
physician; both trust her, and she should be
eminently worthy of that trust. Let the
doctor find you faitblnl to his directions,
whatever your like or dislike of him may
be, and never conceal Irom him anything
that yon think bears upon his treatment ot
tbe case. Be plain, frank and truthful.
Your dress should be clean, neat and of a
kind that bears washing. It should not
touch the floor, and should be of strong
material, with but little trimming. Aprons,
cuffs and collars should be in perfect order,
ciean ana irequentiv changed.
The apron which you wear while serving
the patient's food should never be the same
tbat you wore while doing other and less
cleanly work. Whether a nnrse will wear
thecap of the hospital is a matter for her to
decide. Physicians generally preler to have
them do so, and as generally do they express
the opinion that jewelry is out oi place in a
sick room.
Your underclothing should be changed
frequently; in many hospitals nurses are re
quired to change everything twice a week,
and the same is true often in the household.
High heeled boots have no place in the
sick(room and the same is true of any heavy,
squeaky, or clumsy covering of the feet.
Slippers made strong and easy give good
satisfaction to the nursed, and the patient
and many an easy, light boot pive3 no an
noying noise. In extreme cases I have sug
gested bottoming the stockings with buck
skin soles, or sheepskin, and in mild cli
mates this arrangement has come into use
not only in nursing, but while one is en
gaged in other household duties.
PERSONAL CLEANLINESS.
The hair should be firmly held in place
and plainly dressed, and the head and hair
should be washed once a week or oftener.
Your personal cleanliness is an absolute
essential. The sensibilities of the sick are
more easily crossed than those of the well,
and they notice unpleasant things which
they would overlook i! they were well. The
breath should be kept sweet, the teeth
brushed, the body bathed oiten, and the
hands should be what is possible in almost
every case beautnul. They may not be so
by neglect, but a little of the right kind of
care every day and Io, their ugliness is gone
and they are instruments ot gentleness and
beauty and uselulnes-1 Keep tbe finger I
nails well pared, not torn off. and thev
should be brushed every day at the base,
and also at the end.
This caution in for the benefit of others as
well as for yourself, for many a patient has
been poisoned by septic and other matters
carried by uncleanly attendants. Every
crack, pin-prick, hang-nail, blister or scratch
is a possible receptacle for septic and other
poisons. Within ashort time I have known
four instances where physicians have been
severely and one fatally poisoned by receiv
ing septic matter through slight scratches
on the finger. If yonr bands or fingers
have any abrasions on the skin they should
be well protected by proper dressings, court
pjaoter or by finger-stalls. Have your own
towel, and use it and use no other.
The band, too, should be trained to
accuracy, steadiness, evenness of motion. A
thousand times you will wish for a steady
hand and if a thousand times von have it
you will be the gainer every time. Accus
tom yourself to acquire this by dropping,
by count, fluids from a Bottle and in other
ways that your judgment may suggest.
J.B. S.
TWO CONSPICUOUS WOMEN.
A Picture of Mr. Ayer nnd Mrs. BlgeloTT
at Vichy Four Yenr ,Uo.
Seeing the annonncementin all the Amer
ican papers of the engagement of Mrs. J. C.
Ayer, of sarsaparilla fame, to Prince Dolgo
rouki, cousin of the morganatic widow of
the late Czar of Bussia, takes me back to
four years ago when I met Mrs. Ayer at the
famous springs of Vichy, the fashionable
health resort of Prance, says a writer in the
St. Louis Globe.Democrat. She was aeeom.
panied by Mrs. John Bigelow, wi.e of the
Hon. John Bigelow, who was for so many
years American Minister to France. The
two ladies were conspicuous figures in the
crowd of fashionable visitors rom every
land which thronged that famous health re
sort. Mrs. Bigelow was, that summer, the
guest o Mrs. Ayer, and wis as much no
ticed for her eccentricities iu dress as
Mrs. Ayer was for her splendid toilets.
The latter, who has a pleasing but scarcely
a handsome countenance, is a woman proba
bly about SO years of age, but yet so wedded
to the gay world that she devotes much of
her time to personal adornment. Her ward
robe included, at that day, a great variety
of wigs of every shade, so tbat one day she
appeared as a blonde, the next as a brunette,
and later as a Titian beauty, witb rich
auburn hair, which seemed to be her favorite
color. Her favorite necklace was a string
of fine pearls, almost as large as wren's eggs,
clasped with a diamond aiguillette of great
value.
Money was no object to the fair widow.
Mrs. Bigelow, who was a welcome visitor at
tbe houses of the oldest nobilitv in France
and England, was, on the contrary, a verita
ble dowdy, notable for tbe entire absence of
taste in her attire. On one occasion sbe wore
to the little English church iu Vichy a
gorgeous-hued barege, cut surplice, with a
piece of ribbed cotton tape tied around her
neck, while her hose were of pale pink, and
her shoes of light yellow leather.
CAN'T LOSE A BOO.
Story of a Pointer Who Fonnd HI master
Tfaonsli cbo Sea Intervened.
Mr. Edward Cook, after having lived
some time with his brother George at
Tugsten, in Northumberland, went to
America, and took with him a pointer dog,
which he lost soon afterward, while shooting
in tbe woods near Baltimore. Some time
after Mr. George Cook, who continued to re
side at Tugsten, was alarmed at hearing a
dog iu the nigbL He admitted it into the
house, and found that it was the sune his
brother had taken with him to America.
The dog lived with them until his maater
rntnrn.il hnnirv vhn th mntnallv teCOg-
nized eaoh other. Mr. Cook was never able
to trace by what vessel the dog bad lelt
or in what part of England it had been
landed.
GOWNS THAT ffASE.
.
Shirjey Dare Tells of Pretty FaoTici
for Summer Fancies.
THE DEESSES IN BEAU BEUMHEL
A Plea for Kate Greeniway'a and Other
Styles of Times Agone.
HOW GIELS WILL WBAE TflEIE HUB
rWBITTET rOH THI PISPi.ICH.3
Women are beginning to find it is not
really refined to wear gowns In warm
weather which do not allow frequent cleans
ing. For the daintiest rosebud of a girl is
hnm&n flesh and blood and throws off some
pounds a day ot perspiration, or it is the
worse for her health and looks if she does
not. Most of this is absorbed by the clothes,
and the country and city dust which settles
in them renders daily change indispensable.
It is hard to see how it is possible to be
really nice without it. English houses are
making up a great variety of -cotton and
linen gowns, washing silks and veilings,
delaines and wool crepes, not to mention
serviceable outing cloths that will stand
washing two or three times without loss of
color.
It is nonsense to insist that the expensive
cottons must be treated by the French
cleaners to keep the color. Tbey may be
washed by any careful laundress, who un
derstands to have soft water, with a very
little borax dissolved in it, and will wash
one piece through without stopping till it is
ready to dry. Then it should have a slight
dressing with wheat or potato starch, hav
ing some isinglass in it, and be ironed with
more care than one in a hnndred is willing
to give. The point is to avoid any more
contact with water than is necessary to
cleanse the dress, and only starch to hold
the fibres and colors without stiffening.
COTTONS AND LINENS.
Among the prettiest new cottons are the
striped and figured dimities, which English
makers call aamask cotton, in sott dull
bine, lilac, or pink cord and cluster stripes
on the white firmly twilled gronnd which
gives its name. These are 35 cents a yard,
are pretty and substantial enough to lait for
seasons, and will bear ordinary washing.
The silk finished linens with small silvery
brocade figuring in gray and blues bid fair
to be more appreciated than they have been.
Large plaids and bold stripes figure on the
counters, but a woman of taste passes them
by, and contrives to look the very touch of
the mode with the polka dots, pin dots,
Marie Antoinette flower sprigs, and the
pretty new floral stripes; for instance, pale
blue witb garland of small yellow roses on
a white stripe, or pink stripe with haw
thorn in white, things which make up
charmingly in those garden party dresses
which avenne modistes charge 5J0 for.
They are as much trouhle to fit, it is said,
as silk gowns, take as many stitches, ana
lace and ribbons count just as much.
Wbich are so many arguments for woman's
understanding the full art and mystery or
dressmaking tor themselves. There is not
two days' work with a sewing machine in
any cotton goods lor an expert, and very
few women can make or save money to bet
ter account than in making their own cheap
gowns as tbey ought to be.
DRESSES IN BEAU BRUJIMEL.
The artistic set in London are taking to
frocks with puffed short sleeves and long
silk gloves above the elbow, which used to
be pinned to the sleeve to protect the white
arms Irom sunburn, andlrilled skirts which.
how slippers with ribbons crossed over tha
instep. Mrs. Bernard Beere, who rrears tha
best designed dress of anv woman on tha
English stage, appears in the long grnceiul
overdress and gown of the Edgeworth
novels, which every woman of tiste desires
to copr on sight. The new style has been
brought out very prettily in the dresses for
lne new Pm-T' ?.e.au ""'H?1' ,w.nlcn, r
Aect Sr.eat credit on the ladies of the pay,
the new plav, "Beau Brummel, which re-
The designs sent over expressly for the piece
by Mr.i Seymour Lucas, the .English artist,
proving too expensive if made by a cos
tumer, tbe ladies of Mr. Mansfield's com
pany got up most of the costumes them
selves from tne pictures with very fair suc
cess. In the first act Mrs. Brutone as The
Duchess wears a-broc-ide of deep red, with
pattern of gold net between the stemless
roses which cover tbe surface. The waist,
with folds opeu to the belt, is filled with
rnechljn dotted net and frills of handsome
lace, w-ith rosette of the brocade at the
point in the back, long gloves of pale tan
harmonizing with the old gold in the silk,
scart of crape and lace and a wonderful
crimson silk drawn bonnet, with plumes
which must delight tbe heart of any mil
liner, for no amateur hands could achieve
such an enterprise.
AN IDEAL PAEISIENNE.
Miss Beverly Sitgreaves was charming
in her dreis for the cotillion scene. One of
the nest bred women on the stage, slender
and graceful as a grass blade, her swaying
figure in a pale willow green satin, with
just lace enough to so ten it at the neck and
sleeves, made one think of a sylph, an Un
dine, one of D mdet's ideal Parisiennes, im
possible of awkwardness or incorrectness.
It is a pity women in the audience do not
take note oi such examples of artistic
morality in dressing to see what may be
done with the simplest of pale green satin
frocks, with surplice waist, a frill at tha
hem and a net tucker, worn with ladylike
grace and a slight, supple figure. The
siahtofher elfin witcberie, her curves and
courtesyings is enough to make women
forswear flesh and indolence lorever.
Tbe tailor gown demands the best mate riala
for effect, and the Medici lasbions are ruin
ous it well carried out, or theatrical in the
worst sense if done at less expense. But tha
Kite Greenaway styles, as we call them,
have been tried on our little folk long
enough to realize how charming they are lor
older wearers, and tbey are likely to come
in for a good while. The tight gowns,
which look like corset and bodice made in
one piece, look very wooaen and piteous as
seen on the avenue beside the full French
waists and the coquettish old English gowns
'in flowered challies and gay silks which
venture out of doors on fine days.
WILL BE OAT, INDEED.
The park will look like a garden and tbe
streets like flower borders when the new
style takes possession.. But I never heard
that women were any worse wives and
friends when tbey walked out in gay mus
lins and flowery delaines than wben they
wear black till they smell of dye or go de
mure in mode colors.
One thing girls will be grateful for, tha
smooth hair'will be worn tbls summer;
smooth hair in large coils or twists at the
back, with a slight eatbenng ol wave or
curl to so ten the lace appears in the newest
mode3 abroad. The bang has had itst time;
the saints be praised, that its ugliness is
OTer. Those who can bear it wear the hair
brushed off the forehead and high in the
back for coolness, with slight wavemarks to
show the gloss of the hair at the sides.
Spanish curls or "beau catchers" are worn
by mature coquettes, and the bandeau of
velvet, or tbe ribbon tied in the hair suits
the styles of Edgeworth simplicity.
Shiblet Dabs.
THE LILTS PIETY.
Some Inconsistency In tbe Recent Keporta
From Across the Brine.
Boston Hersld.1
The latest important intelligence from
Loudon is that Mrs. Langtry has beeorao
distinctly religious. We might credit the
rumor if the thoughtless cablegram had not
likewise mentioned a wild and lurid supper
party whereat Mn. Langtry and her friends'. y
appeared in anything but a pious light. vjf
Tnese little slips will occur sometimes))
but they are to be particularly regretted
when any new theatrical advertising is oa
the carpet.
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