X 4? r jllso THE- Pi'BTSBUEd- DISPATCH, SUNDAY, MAT 18, 1890.- K g?MH3 i ns -r;cnadnsrnsn?k of adoptiDs their case of the hands. oArr fiaKer m the naiI is ia able women's pens. eIL If-VrWV tS ,-roSii S5v mrinvTnnni!iii Thick joints nre by uo ' means incurable tssEf - rl V I Aml J . -. i. j ,lf u r l -j. defects, the only trouble being that few g. Jr -fS k frjM Everybody can think of staid no- Rhipl. rinrA TV115 How to Makfl ThAm people will take the trouble of treating HPff TTTrTfPrfi t V r quaintanees who disport in a bathing suit, bmrlej Dare lellS II0W 10 fliaKO Uiem hem as frequently as thev need. They r ii JrTi" I TMI promenade the beach more or less and lie in Like ThoSO Of Fairies. " must not be snapped or worked at the joints. m HyVYaigjlfv ll . W TV -: the sand, according to the custom of the mM wnich ia pretty certain to increase their- EST J0m 'L' SSSV vW'M J dress; yet A SIWPLR AND EASY TREATffilTlT. wmmmmimjm m B VeiiS j&Zr-1 'ZZflfKn FJJ 1 "health and KSmm -IUB.SHUWJ uu w ,u ...-b "" Wk THE ETHERI&L EFFECTS ssn r' Ar Prominent-;,, the f.prK Bna Midsummer "l,.'uery icieos 1 untterny iloTcn -.bont la rrolu.lon, Materials, Colors and Slylci. iw-utt-oj ron titi. diri-jitlii.1 HE "glittering generalities" of spring styles are every where. Echoes from the spring opening, in all fashionable millinery centers, confirm the early indications of flowers, gauze, laces, gold, silver, jet and the preva lence of the light ethereal effects. Transparent hats and bonnets can not be said to rule exclusively, but the transparent idea in them assuredly dom inate the present mode. The little capeline worn by the Parisian grisette, with the Spanish mantilla, are the favored shapes. That the styles this season are Spanish is plainly shown by the names of the shapes, colors, gold, silver, jet and the soft scarf d rapines of silk, so dear to the heart of the Spanish senorita. In shapes we have Mazeppa, Roumania, Xisbon, Zara, Syva, Matador, Toreado and Trocadero, which are decidedly of Spanish origin. Kich black lace is one of the necessary articles lor the costume of these brilliant beauties, hence its popularity. Butterflies are the most prominent feature of artistic garniture at the present time, and arc made ot lace, gold, silver jet, metallic effects, feathers and leather, in all sizes from the smallest na tural copy from nature to the mammoth but terfly large enough to form the crown of a toque or hat. Paris ians have pressed real Brazilian butterflies into service, and their - natural metallic gloss is enhenced. In Lon don the jet butterfly is much admired, while the tiny lace ones are hovering over the flow ers or resting on the brim of the hat In fact, the taste for but terfly millinery is on the increase. In hats made with a vel vet crown and lace brims clusters of these frosted, gauzy winged creatures are pinned. For evening hats and head - dresses, when worn at receptions or the opera, the little gold and silver frames, mounted ith mock Out-of-Voor Drest. jewels, are trimmed in natural flowers and natural butterflies sus pended on spiral wires. FLOWERS OF THE SEASON. Flowers are the favored trimming and still retain their great popularity. Almost all the natural flowers are reproduced in silk or velvet, and the montures are of one or two kinds only artistically sprayed and grouped together. The purple violets and pansies are much admired and in great de mand, partially for their simplicity or au dacity and partially for the many pretty little romances connected with them. When Josephine was asked br ifapoleon what the would prefer for a present on her name day, she replied: "Only a bunch of violets." As thev could not be procured in Paris thev were ordered from Versailles, and while he was impatiently awaiting their arrival a large hunch was mysteriously placed in his hand,.iili which he immedi ately proceeded to Malmaison to give to bis beautiful and accomplished wife They were the favorite flowers of the late Na poleon III. At a fete clvcn just out of Paris" the present cx-Emprcss Eugenie, then a fascinating Spanith girl, wore a violet-colored dress with violets in the hair and bouquet, and by tills nil France knew that at last sho was Napoleon's fiancee. The pamlci represent some of nature's grandest blendlngs, and their saucy, piquant luces are very suggestive of independence. Lilacs, heliotropes mid all flowers of pur plish tints are in peculiar request Among the late noveltks are the flural bonnets of pink hawthorn nnd small lairy roses sur mounted with aigrettes ol light, pale green foliage. The few models, with tips, that were early shown were short lived, nnd for thehalauceol the season flowers will reign supreme. Tulle veils are plentiful, nnd nre worn wide enough to encircle the hat brim. They come in all colors, nnd are frequently pat- teredwith tiny velvet dots. Yellow is still much worn, and the combination of orange and black is associated with memories of the brave Nassau. THE DECLINE OF BLACK. AH colors are rapidly coming to the front and the effect of certain colors in juxtaposi tion to certain skins is beautiful in the ex treme and easily asserts tbeir superiority over black which is generally adopted as a last resort and which is acknowledged by good authority to throw into greater promi nence the little defects nnd irregularities. Certain shades or light blue, into which no nhidinp ol rreen enters, harmonize charm ingly with the florid tones of the rosy bru nette, whereas, the pale, olive skin, yellow- M5PfcT A (llYv' yT sTOsfc rSHr ish in tone, is horribly jaundiced by cer tain other blues. Blondes, should they de sire to wear the blue, should adopt the deep, velvety hues, as the delicacy of their com plexions shonld be tbrown into high relief. In greens the reverse is the order, the blondes finding the lighter shades more be coming, although either rosy wear almost the entire scale. Blondes may wear yellow and it considered highly becoming to the pale brunette, especially by gas light. The secret ot yellow lies here, as we have dis coveredyellow clears everything. Mrs. Russell Harrison's recent appearance in light yellow will illustrate its becomingness to this type of beauty, the handsome bru nette. The golden browns or autumn shadings are advised for the woman who possesses the lustrous red hair. Among the new shades are coquelicot, a very brilliant red, while pourpre and grenat are two darker shades. Fersan is a beauti ful lavender, while Colombe is a yellowish beige. Automne is one of the new light browns, and Skobeleff is applied to the new green. In materials for the large hats, we have the horsehair braid, peculiar for a long time to Neapolitan manufacturers, and, also the horsehair braid interwoven with straw a revival of a lancyof years ago. The Milans hold their own in hats and' bonnets intended for great service. Embroidered kid is a millinery fancy, and among the many stylish and unique designs produced this season, is a very small toque, of suede kid embroidered in automne brown silk. The band of kid rests upon the hat and the supporting strips over the top, are of the same material. It is trimmed at the back with velvet bluebells held in place witn a Drown velvet bow, trom which start the ties. FISH SCALES AKD SILVER BEADS. A very odd Kttle model intended for a blonde is merely a bandeaux of pale green velvet, over which is sewn larce fish scales and small silver beads. A pendant effect of the fish scales and silver beads is fastened at the bottom and rests upon the hair. The trimming consists of a fan-shaped ornament ot fish scales and beads, aigrette of the same and rosette of green mull lace. A small toque for a blonde has no frame, merely two gold vines, one fitting the head and the other one being longer and brought to a point to follow evenly the pointed bangs. A square of gold crocheted gold is wired around the edge with heavy gold wire, and this is bent and draped to suit the face of the wearer, being then attached to the wires that fit the head. A gold snake, six feet long, with a golden head and a small ruby eyes, is coiled, knotted and twisted through the crown and over the wires, with the head poised in the air and standing erect amongst a small cluster of pansies, guarding them carefully, as it were. Another very odd conceit intended for opera wear is.three gold wires joined to gether at the back:, spreading apart at the front and conforming to the, shape of the head. These wires are covered with mock emeralds and pendant emeralds and gold beads. Sewn to the back of the upper wires is short, curlv hair fallinf. over and nartiallxr concealing the emeralds. This hair must exactly match the hair of the wearer, and the bangs should be quite fluffy. Three gold and emerald butterflies, on spiral springs, are hovering in front, while a large green bow is placed upright in tbe back. A dainty little toaue without a frame is a large spider web of silver cord on which are four large spiders. A bunch of pink fairy roses is placed in front and the ties are of a small silver cord. A handsome large bat of black point d'esprit shirred net has tbe crown and brim piece in arabesque design of very thin white wood and fine jet. The trimming consists of white wood and jet butterflies and velvet field daisies. These designs are strictly American. For the greatest good to the greatest number it is to be hoped the mourning veils of wide black crcpc-dc-chine will take the place of tbe heavy nun's veiling. Paramount among the advantages that tbe crepe-de-chine has over the nun's veiling, is that the weight of the former is so much less than the latter. Oka Seaket. THE DECOLLETE DRESS. All tbo Evil That Llc In lis Wearies Comes From the Wearer If alio bo Modest r.o Will hhe Appear, No Matter luo Gown. IWMTTEK FOB THK BISI-ATCn.l "Iloni solt qui mal y pcnie. " Tboso who see immodesty in every rovcla tion of the female figure might dwell with profit and an increasing breadth of mind, upon tho truo signifi cance of the gWW above motto xh $. oftncuntisn Itoynlty," says a Brlt i s h subject through the columnsof bis paper; and thli might well be said in defenseoi America's court ladles and others not at court, who are ex ponents of the decollete dress. Ifna ture has en do w e d a woman with a charming and graceful figure, why e n velop that figure i n yards upon yards of dry goods when usage makes it proper to display the God-given beauty of well rounded' arms, sloping shoulders and curved throat simply because some other woman with whom nature has dealt more stingily, or a man who being evil himself sees evil in all things as naturally as a certain infuriated animal would see red in any color, com ments jealouslv or disparagingly. The tirade against the low cut evening dress comes more frequently, perhaps, from tbose whose environment has shutout such custom, and to whom such attire is un familiar hence shocking. Alter all, are not ideas of morality and modesty tbe re sult of custom and education? The people of the extreme East regard all American costumes as immodest. Exposed, faces are as shocking to their Idea of morality as were the bared shoulders and arms of his Boston friends to Joihua Whitcomb, yet do 1L " I ls4 111 iAsa HI ' pw n III I JA t I I I I III I ""-'VU cf 1 I II ikixA the same gauzy ex cuse of "health and comfort" may be as plausibly v o uchsafed one as the other; bath ing could be done in sleeves to the wrists and skirts to the ankles though not 8 o pictur esquely nor so conveni ently; and dancing co nl d be done in high necks and long sleeves though less attractivel y and comfort ably than in da co 1 let e. Enough rea- sons; but who can repress a smile when the illy-ventilated-room reason is given for the low cut when it is so noticeable that only those whom nature has richly endowed with physical perfection feel this style a necessity to personal comfort, while those less highly iavored find the temperature "just right. thank you," though swathed to the ears in velvet and furl Just here one might pause to feel grateful for an existence under the Stars and Stripes, thereby inheriting Ameri ca's free license to reveal charms or conceal the lack of them at option, rather than life under the Union Jack, subservient to the Queen's dictum of decollete dress, regard less of age, complexion, length, breadth or thickness. IT DEPENDS ON THE tVBABER. The illustrations represent tbe styles of the decollete in dress. The extreme low cnt is by no means the rarity the un sophisticated may believe it to be. But after all, considering tbe virtuous Queen of England aud America's "first ladies," equally chaste, who have instituted and sus tain the low-cut; and who have worn this style above reproach, the question arises may not a true woman in evening dress convey to a person the most powerful idea of the modesty of chaste womanhood; wbile another woman clad in a robe of im penetrable texture inspire emotions quite the reverse? The first illustration is beauty suggested rather than revealed, and is the style strictly adhered to by Mrs. Cleveland and the ladies of tbe present dressy administra tion, barring Mrs. Morton, who certainly has extreme ideas of her own in regard to the decollete limit Mso. MISS FAIB'S WEDDING DBESS. A Dream In Iaco nnd Satla Scarce Erer Equaled In PrUjr Elsewhere. Paris Edition New York Herald, j Curiosity shops and collections of antique lace have been ransacked during tbe past few weeks to find a sufficient quantity of rare old Alencon Argenton to adorn the wedding dress of an American bride who is soon to make her debut in tbe matrimonial world. It took 15 days of constant search ing to match the lace for Miss Fair's dress," said Mme. Arnaud, who had been commis sioned to tbe task, "and I despaired of ever finding enough. Every morning when I wakened I thought of that train, three metres long, to be covered with two lengths of Alencon, which is as rare as black pearls. The lace is fine, fine, fine!" she added, with French enthusiasm, "nnd if it goes to the- bottom of the tea I can never replaco It at any price, for there is no more to be found," The famous robe is now approaching its destination, insured for nearly 20,000 francs, which is but half its value, and a duty of 7,500 francs has been paM at tbe New York Custom House. The handkerchief of tho Alencon lace alone cost 1,000 francs. The cream white satin was especially ordered from Lyons at an Immense price. Thesatiu hangs straight from the waist In the back, forming a long train covered with tbe costly lace. The front of the skirt is simply draped and around the bottom is a festooned flouuee of lace in Louis XVI. drapery, held by bunches of orange blossoms. The high corsage is held to a point below the waist and has no trimming, but a high stiffened Medlcls collar or luce, slightly opened in front to show the throat. The sleeves are oi white latin, large and lull at the top, covered from shoulder to wrist with luce which ends in a moven age or Sarah Bernhardt cuff, as it has been called since the actress first adopted it as nn artlstio means to conceal her bands, which are not ber strongest mark of beauty. Over all this wealth of satin and lace falls the cloud of white tulle listened to tbe crown of tbe head by abuneh of orange blossoms, ar ranged and sent with the robe. The tulle .veil "poetizes" the whole costume, and the robe is. perhaps, tbe handsomest and most costly bridal dress made in Paris for many years, TEE GOOD LIVED AFTER FTflT, Events That Led Up lo a Lorlng Inscription on a Tombstone. Fortlsnd Argui.J Years ago there lived in a town not far from Portland a man of property, education, ability and good habits. He was elected several times to the Legislature and served with credit to himself and to his constitu ents. In old age misfortune came upon him. He lost all his property, and went lo live with his younger brother, because he had nowhere else to go. But the brother's children would not have the old man in tbe bouse, and ordered the Selectmen to remove him. He was taken to tbe Poor Farm, and there he died. Later on these same children removed their uncle's remains to tbe village cemetery and at the head of the grave set up a marble slah, and placed nponJt this inscription: "Farewell, dear TTnrle, until we meet yon in a Better Land.'' Kami mm& r " Mitt Fair't Wedding Drtit. KAILS AND TAPEK1NG FIXGEBS rwarrrxN tor the dispatch. I The manicure art, which means the care of tbe handsjike most personal refinements, is of French origin. The chiropodist was indispensable to great people before, large, obese and gouty personages found it difficult often to see their feet, let alone the care ot them. Tbe chiropodist to Louis Philippe, M, Sitt, a clever artist in his way, conceived- that it would be an excellent thing to expend the same skill on the hands of high personages which were always in evidence, and history tells us not always as well kept as they might be, H was given'to the toe nails of his least Christian majesty. That the idea was inspired, and added one more charm to the existence of nobility, is evident, for no one, however bourgeois or plebian. ever submits his hands to a skill ful manicure without sighing to have the operation repeated as part of the daily rou tine. So readily does luxury lay hold on human taste, and so true is Rousseau's say ing that "the superfluous is the only indis pensable." Monsieur Sitt was thorough in his craft, for his methods remain in favor with the best society abroad to the present day. They differ in several points from the praotice of American manicures, and secure the best results in preserving tbe comeliness ot the hands and finger nails. Manicuring proper includes the attention to tbe hands fully as much as the nails which are all the ordinary operator spends much care upon. So many lovely things have been said and sung about the beauty of the hand; such a spell lies in the touch, the sight of a fine hand, smooth as curd, white as bisque, soft as chamois, that most men and women covet to add it to their personal graces. For even a man's hand can be strong and quick and clever, while yet shapely, smooth and pre sentable. A MOTHER'S HANDS. A woman needs fair hands to charm with, and not more for this than to pursue her feminine arts of needlework, painting, and above all, of caring for children and the sick. The sweetest memory of a mother is her gentle look, the next her kind voice, the third tbe tender, silky toucn ot ber bands in weariness or illness. We talk of a magnetic toucb, because tbe same warmth and vitality which conveys feeling keeps the skin fine and thin, because often re newed. Constant growth, renewal and throwing off of tissue, is the condition of fine muscle and skin. This growth may be stimulated and aided by the skill of the toilet and the bath. A neglected band, which is solely a con venience to its owner, may be suprisingly improved by continuous care. The first point is to make and keep it clean. You may think your bands well washed, yet after submitting them to a manicure they come out so much whiter that one feels they never were clean before. To put a careless hand in good condition may require half an hour's work three times a week for a fort night, in which time the new skin should grow whiter and finer than before. True, I can quote tbe example of one of the Four Hundred, a gentleman who counts his de scent from Eric the Dane, whose wife is proud of the fact that he spends an hour daily caring for his hands which are unde niably aristocratic and faultless in condi tion. But with most of us, life is too short and full of pressing duties to allow more than the minimum of time for cares which must be repeated daily, and 15 minutes a day for the hands is wanton waste. Five minutes spent once a week trimming the nails of fingers and toes is all that most of us cn afford, time being scarcer than money. But the daily toilet should be made with military dispatch aud military neatness. GETTING KID OF GRIME. Soak ill-kept hands in bot bathing soap suds with half a teaspoonful of borax in the water, which acts wonderfully in removing grime. Tbe hotter tbe water the sooner it will remove grime and old particles. I think the use ot a stiffbrush on tbe back ot tho hands, as well as the use of vaseline at night, fosters tbe growth of hair. Those who have used the rubber handbrusbes will never want anything else. Eubber clings to tho sur face with a Bort ot suction, and carries away every trace of grime with it. The common washing powders of different names quickly bleach the haads, but leave them hursh and dry unless rubbed with lemon juice or vine gar and water. A strong solution of oxalio acid should be kept to remove deep stains which result from cutting fruit or veg etable!, though there nro tew which resist washing soda. There are some which defy, cyanide of potassium, which will take out stains of Iodine, aniline or nitrate of silver itself. Being a most powerful potion, Its uia should be confined to such stains as nothing elio will remove. Having whitened tho hands and dried them well, let us proceed to soften them. Half of tbe harshness of the skin comes of half drying hands after wuililng tliera, and tho belt use of almond meal comes In. It is nice to rub on the hands while rinsing them, rubbing tbe bocks with It as If it woro soap. But while the hands (till feel molit from tbe towel, rub the dry almond meal oyer them, giving tbe backs a little friction, and they are left In a delightful stato from the soupeon of oily powder, worked into the pores. Tbo callous growth round the nails Is to be rubbed down with pumlco stone or still better a fine standitone. GniXDINO TUB HANDS, Or start the emery wheel of tho sewing machine and rub the fingers down with It, lo time the little sandstone, worked by foot powe? will be uue of the manicure's Indis pensable aids. Tho small grindstones for kitchen use serve good purpose In rubbing down rough or horny hands to smoothness. Not ouly do they wear away roughness, but the friction stimulates tho skin, and supples tbe bands. The Romans knew most that was worth knowing about the toilet, aud they used pumice and sandstone all over their bodies to secure tbe marble smoothness of flesh we hear of but seldom see. 'Warts are so easily destroyed, it is need less to suffer from them. Touch them re peatedly with tbo colorless tlncturo of iodine, or with nitrate ol silver, retouching with the latter as fast as the stain wears away. NItrlo acid also serves the same purpone, but makes the wart sore awhile. A strong sol u ttou of salicylic acid is said to destroy warts, moles or any unhealthy growths of the skin, without pain or injury to the healthy parts. Erasmus Wilson relates that a crop of warts were removed by subjecting them to a sue cession of sparks Irom an electrical machine. The modern practice is to pierce the wnrts with long needles and connect these with an electric battery. A crop of warts calls tor a course of internal medicine. The best way to treat agnails it cut them close with fine sharp scissors, soak tbe first joint of the finger in very hot soap suds for live or ten minutes, keeping it hotas'can be borne, and touching when dry with cold cream. TRAINING FINOEUS TO TAPER. So far from being Injurious to cut or pare the "selvage," as the French call the rim of skin next the nail, wbeu they are imper fect tbe best way is to trim them close with sharp slender pointed scissors, first cutting tbe skin free of the nail without bleeding. Tbo nails can be trimmed to a fine oval on almost any fingers, by pressing the flesh uwav at tbe corners, and paring these closer day by day till they lose unsightly breadth. Then tbe "fingers by frequent pressure ut tbe sides of tbe upper joint will take a taper instead of a spreading tip. It is useless to. develop a taper oval shape. Thick joints nre by uo' means incurable defects, the only trouble being that few people will take tbe trouble of treating them as frequently as they need. They must not be snapped or worked at the joints, which is pretty certain to increase their' size. Tbe skiuini manicure win ruD eacn joint round and round or upward between thumb and finger, ts rednce tbe joints and supple them. Two or three table spoonfuls of lemon jnlce taken diluted with a little clear water bjsfore each meal will reduce large joints and gouty ex crescences in time, out a speedierway is treatment with iodide of potassium in con nection with electric baths, which works marvels with large joints and long deformi ties. To keep the nails thin, polished and firm, keep them trimmed, never allowing them to project beyond the finger ends, a rim of white two lines beyond the flesh being the most beautiful way of wearing them. TALON CUT riNOEE NAILS. The pointed long nails, however fashion able with the few, are cruel looking, and suggest uselessness, accidents and breakages anyhow. Imagine an artist or a statue with long pointed nails. When we grow three corner finger ends the pointed nail will be in keeping, not till then. You will not see the "talon cut" of nails on the hand of anv court beauties photocrraTihed tn-dnv. The files used by ordinary manicures are much too coarse for finger nails. The "Sitt" practice uses only the finest, appropriately called velvet files. Scraping the nails or filing tbeir surface thickens them; they should only be rubbed down with the fine emery and cinnabar powder, which is used for polishing shell and ivory. The nails are an index of the health. When they thicken, grow rigid or brittle the system is out of order, to which careful diet and few Turkish baths will usually restore it. The effect of tbe bath is seen at once on the finger nails, which seem thinner, more delicate and firm for a week after. The Sitt method forbids the use of acid or sharp metal points about the finger nails, which are cleaned with pointed orange wood sticks, also used for pressing back the selvage of the skin at the basoof the nails. The Sitt method of manicure soaks one hand in warm soapsuds a few minutes to soften tbe skin and nails, when they are dried and the nails cut at once. No acid is applied to the nails, as the manicure urgent ly protests, from experience, that it makes them opaque aud brittle,' destroying the gelatine which gives their clearness and tenacity. No sharp metal blade or scraper Is ever allowed for cleaning tbe nails, as digging and scraping roughens the under side of the nail and prepares it to collect the dust. CASINO FOB THE SELVAGE. Well polished nails and well kept finger tips no more hold the dust than so much smooth shell. A file of marvelous fineness is used sometimes to smooth the corners and broken edges of the nail, but they are re quired as seldom as may be. Next the finger-tips are touched with amanaine, a de lightful toilet jelly compounded of eggs, almond oil, pistachio-milk and other choice ingredients. A trifle of this is applied un der the nail and to the selvage, after which tbe pointed orange wood pencil clears the nails perfectly, and is used to press the "binding" ot the nails back. The Sitt manicures say the selvage is never to be cut any more than the edge of the eye-lid. Ex ception may be made when by ill-use this border is broken and rough, when it may be trimmed and grow again. But the harsh practice of common manicures who leave this rim sore and bleeding is reprehensible. Polishing with the pink emery powder follows, using a buffer of chamois tbe usual shape, but twice or three times longer, vrhich is much more snrely and easily used. Care must be taken always to rub the nail toward the edge, not downward, to wound the selvage and fill it with powder. A rim of vermilion round a fresh-trimmed nail is most careless and unsightly. Tbe nails receive their final polish by the palm of the opera tor, after which the hand is dusted and wiped with a square of fine linen cambric, all the red that will brush off is removed from the nails, having a natural pink tint, and a touch of amandine rubbed over the back of the hand and wiped off leaves it pliant, fresh and scented; when, if not the "snow-white hand of the most beauteous Rosalind," it is at least fit for any gentle deed, or kis3 of courtesv, an old salute com ing in fashion. Indeed, when has it ever been quite out? SOME VALUABLE ItECEIPTS. I conclude with an English recipe for keeping hands smooth, which is two table spoonfuls of lemon juice, one of glycerine and tbe same of almond oil colorless oil, by the way, for experience lends reason to the idea that most oils and vaseline discolor and darken the hands. En passant, hot foot baths nightly, nnd purgatives with coarse bread arc the best regime to secure white hands. Honey balsam is a nice prepara tion English lady's maids compound to whiten and soften the hands. It is made of eight tablespoonfuls of pale strained honey heated gently, and two tablespoonfuls of vegetable glvcerlne melted into it: when cold, two tablespoonfuls of rectified spirit and three drams of pure eltrlo acid aro added, with a few drops of any rich essence to periume. Dissolve tho acid crystals in the spirit before pouring into tho other mix ture and bottle at once. These toilet arts afford new avenues of employment to womeu, but It is Indis pensable that the best methods bo learned and practiced with tho utmost refinement. A hairdresser or maulouro in Jreis aver so slightly soiled, whoso pretence betrays by scent It' not by sight the need of parsonal at tentions, repels at onco. and If to this sho adds indifferent, mconauioal treatment, carelessly kept Implements and ill-smelling applications, she may be certain customers will not willingly seek her services a second time. A good manicure, who has also knowledge of facial massage, can command 83 a day at moderate estimate by private practice in cities, going from homo to house; and few callings require so little effort, only that cflortmuitbe given with delicate skill aud exacting care. Bhiiiley Dabe. BEAUTIFYING THE POECHES. Climbing Tines Tlint Aro Easy to Cultivate nnd ilnndaomo to Look Upon. Tbose who wish to screen unsightly ob jects or to beautify porch or trellis should get some of the many hardy climbing vines. There are many varieties to select from.ylz., the perennial once planted and sturted, coming up yearly without further trouble such as the Japanese ivy, tbe sweet-scented honeysuckle and the golden-leaved variety, English ivy and tho Ohlneie wisteria. Then there nro tho annual climbers that have to bo planted each spring, but grow with amazing rapidity, and soon cover a very large space. They are beautllul and cheap and are sure to gi vo satisfaction. Among tho best I would name tho balsam apple. It grows quickly, yields a hand some golden fruit very uieiul iu applying to cuts and bruises. In thcMargo list of or namental gourds, tbe vines are not onlv pretty, but the gourds themselves are curious, and many of them ot much use. The climbing nasturtiums aro alio rapid growers, have bright yellow and red flowers, and tbe fruit, too, is most valuable for pickles. The old-time scarlet runners are not to be overlooked. They recall the days of the log cabins, the stone-floored kitchens, the well-sweep, the hearty welcome, and the plain cooked, yet sweet tasting food. Whether greenhouse nnd window plants in geueral should be kept in their pots or turned into tbe open ground for tbe summer depends upon what is desired of them. Probably most plants can be trained into better form in pots than in the open ground. But to lessen labor most gardeners now turn tbeir greenhouse plants out. As a rdle, plants are cut back when so turned out. Azaleas may need attention, to pruning some little time before they are put out. We prefer to plunge the pota of azaleas in sand in the garden, and not to turn them cut, though some gardeners do so. Before these nlants are turned out, and when thev have done blooming, the weak wood can be cutout and the shoots shortened, and a top-dressing of about an inch of fresh soil be given. , - Products of the Money-Making Authoresses ol the Capital. MRS. F. H. BURNETT'S WORKSHOP. Many Visitors Mistake Mrs. Sonthworth for One of Her Servants. DtBT OP A POETESS TO MKS. STANF0ED rCOBBESPONDIHCE OT THK DISPATCH. Washington, May 17. Washington now ranks with Boston and New York as a literary center. Some of the best paying books in American literature has been written here, and we have authors and authoresses who are growing fat on tbeir royalty. Mn. Frances Hodgson Burnett was here a short time ago, and I learn that 130,000 copies of "LittleLordFauntle Mrt.Southworlh. roy have been gold in America at $2 a piece. The book has been translated into the Frencb, tbe Ger man and, I think, the Italian, and Mrs. Burnett gets a copyright on her English publications. She wrote "Little Lord Fauntleroy" at her home in Washington and I have often seen the long-haired, blue-eyed, little young ster, who sat for its hero, playing 'in tbe Washington streets almost under the feet of $Irt. Burnett's New Home. the horses and now and then having a fight with some of the other Little Lord Eauntle roys of the neighborhood. At this time Airs. Burnett's Washington home was on I street just next the house General Garfield owned while he was a senator. It was of the plain conventional order, and cost I jndge about $6,000. A year or so ago Mrs. Burnett bought a house in the fashionable Northwest and she now lives not far from Blaine's mansion and almost next door to that of Chief Justice Puller. A TEN THOUSAND DOLLAE CONTRACT. Her house is a very curious three-story brick and brown stone and it wonld, I judge, sell for $25,000 at auction. It is comfortably furnished and its interior show one of Mrs. Burnett's fads which is a passion for old Oriental rugs. Mrs. Burnett has never done very much writing in this house, but she will probably do much of her future work in it. Among her contracts are one for a novel for which she is said to be offered $100,000 by a New York firm, and this does not include the right to publish tbe story as a book. She is an easy writer and uses a pencil rather than a pen. She jots down her ideas on odd scraps of paper and then writes them together into shape. She works very hard and it was overwork that had much to do with her illness, which took her to Europe. She would have returned to America much sooner had it not been for tho accident which laidjier up in London and she has, I am told, several new stories In view though nothing is as yet in man uscript. She has done very well off of tbe dramati zation of her books, and she is especially fondol tbo drama. At one of tbe Garfield fairs here she appeared in costume with her two boys along with ber as Cupids, and she formed one of the attraotlons of the fair. Mrs. Burnett wrote her first story when sho was IS, and this win, I judge, just about 20 yoars ago. She got $20 for It from Oodey't Laditt' Hook, and for tho same number of words she could get $2,000 to-day. 11 US. SOUHTHWOKTH'S FORTUNE. Mrs. "Alphabetical" E. D. E. N. South worth Is still grinding nut manuscript nioro valuable than though each sheet was written with a diamond pin on a gold plute, awe has written something liko 7U novels, and she prides herself on having written one novel lor every year of her life. Sho works Jfri. Stanford and the Patten. hero during the summers at her Georgetown home, and she grinds out everything with her own hands, writing boldly with a big gold pen. Sbe is the nearest a machine of any writer I know, and she pens the most blood-curdling descriptions of love aud crime with a smile on her face. It was hero that sbe began her writing, and she writes the same sort of stories to day that she did years ago. Her habits of work are to write almost constantly from Tuesday to Thursday night. Friday aud Saturday she spends in visiting, and on Monday she revises her proofs, which are sent to her regularly from New York. She had for a time a contract with a New York paper by which she was paid $10,000 a year lor all that she wrote, and sbe probably gets a royalty in addition. Still she began her work at a dollar a column. Her property here Is not very valuable, and it is as un conventional ns Mrs. Soulhworth herself. It is a little story-nnd-a-halrcottage, with a rude picket feuce in front of it, and with tbe paint well worn off by the weather. People calling at it to seethe famed novelist oltcn take her for a servant if sbo happens to be working out of doors among her flowers, and they can hardly believe that the little, simple old lady in calico Is tbe noted money-making authoress. ' STORY OF UNCLE TOJl'a CABIN. Mrs. Southworth wrote on slavery before ejSSW Tncle Tom's Cabin appeared but it was re served for this book to be the great success of that time. TJncle Tom's Cabin was written at Washington and was published in the National Era here. Harriet Beecher Stowe savs she wonld have been well satis fied to have received a silk dress in payment for the work and she was astonished to find it such a success. It came out in book torm in 1852 and -in five years 500,000 copies of it were sold. It still sells and it bag been translated into the Armenian, Bohemian, Danish, Dutch, Finish, French, German, Hungarian, Polish, Portugnese, modern Greek, Rus sian, Servian, Spanish, Swedish, Welsh and several other languages. Mrs. Stowe has written from that day to within a fewjrears, bat she has not spent much of her time here. Much of her work bas been done in her Florida home and some in Connecticut, where sbe is now living. Kate Field is devoting all her energy to her Washington paper, and she has become one of the lady litcrateurs of the Capi tal. She is said to be well-to-do. Sbe made a pile of money out of a lucky investment in telephone stock some years ago and she has been very fortunate in the labor field. Sbe is a woman of many parts and she can talk, act and write al most equally well. Her .father was an actor and a play writer, and, like Kate,' he bad not a lazy bone in his whole body. Kate Field is very methodical in her work and she takes very good care of Kate Field. She takes enough horseback rides every week to keep her digestion in good order and tones np her stomach before every meal with a glass of hot water. She has a little reception to her very particular friends every Sunday night, and she is one of the most popular women with the statesmen of Washington. It is not generally known that Constance Fenimore Woolson dfd some of her best work in Washington. It was fiere that sbe wrote her novel "Anne," which made such ahit, the scenes of which are laid in Vir ginia near here. When the book was com pleted Amos Townsend, then tbe representa tive from Cleveland, O., in the House, nailed it np in a shoe box for her and sent it off to the publishers. The widows of two of America's most famous soldiers are turning out consider able good manuscript. These are Mrs. General John A. Logan and Mrs. Admiral Dablgrcn. Mrs. Dahlgren, as long ago as tbe days of Buchanan, published sketches and poems under the pen name of "Cor inne," She hat a home at South Mountain, in Maryland, where she writes ghost stories and pens blood-curdling talcs of love and longing. Sbe is one of the devout Catho lics of the country, and has translated from the French a work on Pius IX, and from the Spanish book entitled "Catholicism, Liberalism and Socialism," and for this she received Jhe thanks of the Pope. MBS. LOGAN'S MAGAZINE. Major Tucker tells me that Mrs. Logan's magazine is makinglots of money. Its circu lation now approaches 100,000, aud it is in creasing right aiong. She does her literary work at her home, Calumet place, and she pens her articles herself and does not dic tate. It is my idea that she could do better it she used a shorthand amanuensis, for she talks well, and her conversation is always interesting enough to publish. Olive Bisley Seward has been writing more or less ever since she went around the world with her adopted father, the Secre tary of State. During this time she wrote Seward's book, he dictating the matter to her. She especially excels as a writer ot childs' stories. She is now writing the story of Pennsylvania, a historical work. Several Congressmen's daughters have the literary bent. Judge E. B. Taylor, who represents Garfield's district in Congress. has a very bright daughter who though now married keeps her pen going to good advan tage. Her name is Mrs. Harriet Taylor Upton and she is the authoress of the finely illustrated and very interesting series of articles which are now being published about the "Children of the White House." Mrs. Upton is an honest worker and the facts presented in these articles are gathered first hand from the descendants of the Presidents. Annie Laurens D.twes, the daughter ofSenator Dawes of Massachusetts, is a reat student of political economy aud social science. You would never snppose that her books were written by a woman. Sbe has a remarkable intellect and among her published works are "How We Are Gov erned; an Explanation of the Constitution and Government of the United States." She has also written a book on "The Modern Jew; His Present and Future," and she is uue of the high-priced contributors to the m igazines. Miss Dawes is the founder of the Wednesday Morning Clnb, tbe finest woman's literary club in tbe United States. ENCOTTBAOINO LITERATURE. Mary Halleck Foote, who is so well known as a magazine writer. Is a sister-in-law of Senator Hawley, and the wife ofSen ator Springer has just published a new book. I am told that Mrs. Senator Spooner has the literary bent, and there are a num ber of women in Washington who encour age literature. Mrs. Senator Stanford is one ot these, and there is no more kind-hearted woman in the United States than this mill ionaire's wife. She does not parade ber gifts, and the story which I hire relate came to me from the woman whose bonk sho pub lished. This woman had considerable abil ity as a poet. She wrote Republican tongi which wero sung all over the country dar ing a number of Presidental campaigns, and whatever she published was copied throughout tbe land. Through her nble work for the Republi can party she got a good position in tbe Treasury Department, but when President Cleveland came in she whs removed. She had a largo family to support and at the time of her discharge her daughter was very sick. Sho saw no way in which to keep tho wolf from the door exeept in the publica tion of her poems. She collected them to gether and sought a publisher. She could find none, and she received cold aniwers everywhere. At fait one of the editors of a Wash ington newspaper advlied her to go and see Mrs. Stanford and he arranged an ap pointment forbrr. When the day came she was compelled to stay at homo at her sick daughter's bedside, but nn the following day she went to the Stnnford mansion. It was raining and the darkness of the clour's was not half so blaok as tbe darkness of her heart. MRS. STANFORD'S KINDNESS. Mrs. Stanford's butler came to the door and she told him she would like to see Mrs. Stanford. He replied that sht was busy and had said that she did not want to see anyone. She beggod him to take her name upstairs. He did so nnd a moment later she was aiked up. The moment she entered tho room Mrs. Stanford came to her, took her by the hand, pat her arm around her waist and led her over to a sofa, whete the two sat down together. Upon the pneteis telling tho story of her sick daughter, Mrs. Stanford began to talk about her son, who, It will be remembered, died a few years ago. She told the lady all about him, and In a two hours' conversation gave her ideas of heaven, immortalltv, love and other matters called up by the death of her dear boy. At last tbepoeteis stid: 'Ulut, Miss Stanford, I called to see about my book, and I don't want to take up your time." "Oh, that's all right," replied Mrs. Stan ford, and went on with her talk. At the end of another half hour the lady arose and said: "Well, Mrs. Stanford, I don't think I will trouble you further about it, and I guess I had better go." "Whv, my dear child," replied the rich Senator's wife. "I intend to publish your book." The woman was so wrought up and so surprised that she burst out crying and sobbed awav for some time as though ber heart would break. "How can I ever re pay youl" she said and as .lie did so her tears' tell npon Mrs. Stanford's band. - "These tears repay me," was Mrs. Stan ford's reply. The book sold well and the woman wa enabled through It to live in comfort to her death which occurred last winter. 8hortly before she die I saw ber and she referred to Mrs. Stanford's kindness, and said she sometimes appeared to her as an angel in her dreams. Miss Gbundy, Jk. OUE LADS ON THE SEA Pennsylvania's Nautical School Ship Off for a Long Trip. THE SARATOGA AHD HER CREW. fittabnrjr Has Ten Boys Anions: the Osa Hundred on Board. DISCIPLINE I5STEUCTI0IT IVirnM TOS THX PISrATCBVI A short time ago Pennsylvania's nautical school ship, the Saratoga, with its human cargo of embryo sailors, was set afloat. The historical old war vessel has just passed her 49th birthday and is still "hale and hearty" by reason of her live oak timber and copper fastenings. Sbe has been loaned by the Government to the State of Pennsylvania or the State of Philadelphia (the same thing to the mind of a Philadelphia, you know) for school purposes, principally to train boys for tbe mercantile marine service, and she is to revert to the navy when no longer used for such purpose. In addition to tbe methods of navigation the pupils are instructed in common school branches, and the records show an astonish ing improvement in the three B's made by lads most deficient in tberndiments. School opened the 4th of last December and 100 names are now on the roll. Pittsbnrg and vicinity has ten brizbt representatives among the number. Wonder if local bias had anything to do with our really reliev ing "our boys" to be the brightest and hand somest? Three of these ten wore an em broidered anchor upon tbe sleeve of his left arm, which he frequently gave an affection ate stroke with his right hand. When the significance of the emblem was asked for be modestly left it for his Lieutenant to say: 'For perfect condnct. ma am; hard to win Nokjnany of them and harder to keep, around, you notice." SUPPOET OF THE SCHOOL. Tbe school is supported by an appropria tion of $25,000 yearly $10,000 by the State and $15,000 by Philadelphia, which city has also donated a truly magnificent library of well selected, prettily and serviceablr bound books, embracing all the standard works of prose and verse, of fiction and his tory, that would interest a boy from 15 to 20 years old, which, by the way, is the limit. In addition to these books there are whole shelves ot legal looking volumes, containing nautical lore apparently dry enongh and weighty enough to clos the-brain machinery of the average wonld-be sailor. Boys are admitted into the school regard less of color, religious creed or degree of scholarship, provided he is sound mentally and strong physically, with no symptoms ot color-blindness and no intemperate habits supposedly incurable by virtue of ship dis cipline and seasickness. Drinking and smoking are positively forbidden on board. One pupil has been expelled for bringing liqnor on the vessel. Application for admission must be made to the Board of Trust, which is composed of six men, three of whom were appointed by the Mayor of Philadelphia. The applicant must come recommended by two well-known and reputable citizens from his district, and ruHit enlist for two years; the only cost to parent or gnardian being the furnishing of wearing apparel. The regular ana temper ate lives these growing boys are obliged to live is m itself a sufficient recommendation for the school. No sluggards are allowed on board; "earlv to bed and early to rise" is tbe motto. From arising at G until retiring to their swinging cot at 9 lite is an active one. Mental and physical training alter nating In a way to make both alike enjoy able and profitable. THE LADS LIKE IT. The boys declare themselves satisfied ia every particular, especially with the menu, which, of course, is the first consideration (and it proves them true sons of their lathers), and each one interviewed declared the greatest calamity that could overtake him .would be expulsion. The boys do all the "housework" except cooking; however, each "mess" has its cook, which is the nama given the one who draws their rations from the cook proper. This "cook" is appointed for one week only, and that is just seven days too long to that boy. This is consid ered tbe most unpleasant office to fill, inas much as the cook on shore days (Wednes days and Saturdays) must return to tbe vessel earlier than the rest, must clean up after meals, and "do the dishes" as a girl would say. At the end of his week all the table appointments must be spread out for the inspector's examination. The boys call this person the "smeller," and they dread his nose more than tbe cat-'o-oine-tails, with which they as yet have no personal acquaintance. If the "smeller" discover the least unpleasant odor an dishes, or dish towels, "cook" gets reappointed, to his dis gust and the merriment of the mess. The shin is in command of Cantaln Green, a kindly and mild-mannered man who seems to have won tbe love and re spect ol the boys nlready. Tbe crew num bers 5 officers and 38 men. These men com prise a boatswain, storekeeper, master-at-arms, carpenter, captain of tbe bold, 3 quartermasteis, 1 firemen, a ship's cook and an officers' cook, a cabin steward and 23 seamen. OFF TOR THE AZORES. The cruise entered upon Saturday, Mar 3, has the Azores for tho objective point; tho plan being to drop down to breakwater and remain there until June 1, during; which time the boys are expected to get their sen-legs nn. After thle date the ship will sail lor Fayal, In the Azores, a ooursa of 2,400 miles due east. One hundred miles is calculated npon as the dally sailing dis tance, which will giro the ship six days at Kaynl bofore sailing again on July 2 for Southampton, England, which place being only two hours by rail from London, the boys aro promised the opportunity of visit ing that metropolis. On August 1 the ship will sail for Lisbon, It distance of 800 miles, lylna; there ten days; then sail tbe 25tli for Madeira, a distance of? COO miles. On September 1 the homeward journey will bci'ln. Tbo distance of 4,000 miles, it is considered, will have taught the boys much of seamanship. The entire cruise covers 8,200 mites, and the calcula tion is to spend 1)0 daysatsca and 41 in port. Let us wish them godspeed. Fort Pixt. , TEE 'TIB BUT BOX. A Neat Little Story With n Moral by China eey Depesr. New York Ban. J "Let me tell you a story," said Mr. De pew, roplying to an Inquiry for birthday wisdom. "Some years ago I took a great fancy to a young man. He got a good sal ary, but ho never could save a. cent. Ha was not viciously extravagant, but heedless and not at all careful. Finally he married, and I thought perhaps tho responsibility of a wife and subsequent tender responsibili ties might induce him to pay more atten tion (o the limitations of bis purse. But ha did not, and the funny part of It was that' his wire seemed to be just as indiflerent a financier as he was. They were fast drifting on the rocks of bankruptcy. "At last he came to me and told me hla predicament. I related how, when I was a young boy. it was the rage in Peeksklll to bave a Tu But' box. This was a box in which were deposited all of the quarters and other pieces which would have gone on the plen of the husband or wife. 'Why, John, or why, Mary, 'tis but a quarter.' Well, will you believe it, that young man and that young woman rigged up a Tis But' box, and in a year he brought me $1,000 and asked me to buy some investment bond for him. "Every young married couple la tho country should have a lis But box, and if you will but tell them so, with my compll- uicu-a, -uc.. ui uo very nappy cmcks as. me enu oi uq year.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers