20 I MmU B Mtl" FASHION'S REQUIREMENTS. Vke Modern Girl Most Uo More Tbnn Look ' rretlj she Must bo Healthy. Hoto nn Accent nnd Know a Little of Every thing. CORErSrOSBENCE OF TIIE DISPATCH. J Hew York, February 8. O BE a fashion able young wom an in the year of grace one thou sand eight hun dred and ninety is a complex and intricate thing, lime was when to lookpretty was about all that was expected of a maiden just emerging from her teens, but that alone in New York society to-day is not sufficient. .Cue ".'our hundred" have an inexorable, if un written, code that the young belle must be thoroughly cognizant of before she is eligible to the hall mark of fashionable guarantee. The tyrant of her world really penetrates her bedroom and presides over her toilet, directing the process from tne moment she opens her dewy eyes beneath the lace trimmed canopies ot her brass or satinwood bedstead until she leaves the chamber, rosy from the perfumed bath, glowing after the vigorous massage and radiant in the freshest . m A ft WM KL of morning robes. And from then nntu the .hour, any time alter miamgnt, mat sne sinks again into slumber to dream of her triumphs, there has stood at her elbow a little monitor more potent than conscience itself, which has ceaselessly pointed ont the way in which she must walk. MUSI BE NEAT AND HEALTHY. Fashion is sensible just now in a great many thing;, so sensible, indeed, that one almost forgives her the great many other things in which she is a foolish and unrea sonable arbiter. For instance, it is the lashion at present to be neat, wholly and exquisitely neat, with a neatness that begins at the skin and extends to the Iat accessory of the costume. No frayed hems, no boots destitute of buttons, no torn gloves, no Tagged edges, no niussy furbelows are per mitted. In all this neatness, however, the line of demarkatiou from primness is exact and well denned. Hair that is frequently washed and carefully brushed may be loosely put up with charming grace, while no amount of plaiting and pinning back will give a tidy appearance to the locks that are grimy with dust or dull lrom lack of brisk brushing. Xn her care of herself personally the modern belle can give many points to her predecessor of 50 years ago. It is also quite a la mode at the present time to be healthy. The pale, delicate creatures who were supposed to be ultra re fined and extremely elegant three or four de cades ago would tind themselves met with en exasperating pity or a half concealed contempt shonld they parade their fragile selves along the lashionable line to-day. Bright eyes, a lresh complexion and cheeks that have the hue of health, whether it be a ruddy tinge or a clear pallor, are good form for tnis age, however little they may have been admired by Sir Charles Grandison or affected by Lady Pamela. STYLE IN EVERY MOVE, But the girl of fashion must be more than neat and healthy, There is a stylish way or Hhe reverse for her to accomplish every move- -w Ready for Breakfast. ment, however simple. The way she sits or stands, how she walks, enters and leaves a carriage, carries a parasol or muff, gathers a wrap about the shoulders, adjusts the lorg nette or opera glass all these require to be done fashionably, which it must be confessed is not always properly. Everybody can re call, if he must, the -atrocities of the "Grecian bend," and Xew Yorkers saw enough to b: disgusted with the "Alexandra limp," the stylish walk of a much more re ce it date. To-day the swell girls are tread ing upper Fifth avenue "as far as the flag ging goes" witti an erect, supple carriage and springing gait that betokens a knowl edge of and practice in pedestrian exercise, for all of which we have the athletic fad to be grateful to. Accent and intonation are two prominent factors in the curriculum of the Four Hun dred. There are really two voices in use in fashionable society to-day, either of which is considered quite proper. One girl speaks rapidly and without much inflection, and while her voice is not loud, there is a pene trating timber to it which makes it very dis tinct and easily heard. It is a pleasant voice when it is not too manifestly an arti ficial one. Some girls overdo the matter and acquire a nasal tone that is objection able. The other girl has, or thinks she has, the English drawl. She pitches her tones in a considerably lower key than her fash ionable sister, and it would seem that in crossing tbe.water this production imbibed the wave motion of the sea, for it undulates pently but regularly as its Anglo-American possessor lets it glide sinuously from her pretty lips. It is a detestable affectation un worthy an American girl. Let him admire it who will. A great many fashions are put down as practiced by the metropolitan daughter of the .Four Hundred which she would almost faint with horror to be accused of. Her fad, particularly on the street, is simplicity. She has run the gamut of displayand osten tation. She has lonnd, too, that the effect if not the substanceot these can he imitated, and she takes refuge in the other extreme. It is the girl who thinks she is stylish who 'puts 40 bangles on one wrist, stiefca an am ber or gilt dagger, ten inches long, through her hair, draws a white veil with black dots just over her pretty nose, and, hugging a tightly strapped silk umbrella with an ag gressive handle to her breast, starts out to shop. The really fashionable girl, by the way, does not "shop." She drives out with mamma to order things always before 2 o'clock. HEB ENGLISH VOCABULARY. In her speech the fashionable young lady has her vocabulary as she has her code. Latterly she has permitted herself the use or a good many English expressions. She says "fancy" always for "suppose," and she never says "guess;" she says "chemist" for "druggist," "stop attome" for "stay at home," and she "tubs" oftener than she "takes a morning batb." "Fuuction" with her means any sort of social gathering, and a very gay ball becomes a "rout." "Smart" expresses a considerable degree of excel lence, which she applies equally to a wed ding or a bonnet; "an awfully fetching frock or gown" is very English for an espe cially pretty dress. She likes the word "clever," too; when she sees a fine paint ing she says, "that's a clever bit of can vas." St-e thinks Marshall Wilder is an "awlully clever fellow," and if you ask her dces she bowl she replies modestly, "yes, but I'm not at all clever with the balls." Some phrases she leans rather heavily upon, notably "such a blow" when a rain postpones a visit or a friend dies, and "such a pleasure" alike to hear Patti and spend a tiresome evening at the house of some ac quaintance. She has, too, an index expurgatorius MfyflP) MM T IJLil Ordering Things With Mamma. which she is very careful to respect. There are no more "stores" for her, they have be come "shops;" "servants" also have ceased to exist as such, they are "men servants" and "maids," although she permits herself ta designate as laundress, housemaid or butler: "gentleman" she avoids; "a man I know." she savs. referring to a male ac quaintance; or, "there were lots of delight- AHA uicu MUk .Man uiui, aue kwuuuH ia. some sister belle who missed the opera; "all right" she never says, making "very well" do much better service, nor does she add "party" to dinner, speaking of such an entertain ment; her home no longer has a "parlor," pure and simple, but a "blue room," a "red room," a "Japanese room," or pos sibly an "east parlor." WHAT THE GIRLS MUST KNOW. Getting beyond the manner to the matter of the fashionable girl's discourse one finds it has practically no limitations on the surface; at least so said one of them not long ago to the writer. "Why," remarked this young woman, "we have to know everything only we don't have to know it all at once nor for very long at a time. If we did we could not stand up under the accumulation. We take our knowledge in periods. For instance, I have been out four years and during that time I have learned to play the banjo, man dolin and zither, as every one of these accomplishments had its brief run all in addition to what I knew of harp, guitar and piano at my debut. To the French and Italian, with masters before I finished. I have acquired a smattering of German, Yolapuk and Bussian successively; I bowl, ride and fence equally poorly, but I do every one a little I had to, you know. What I do well is to swim and plav tennis. One season I belonged to a Shakespeare class, the next I had mornings with Shelley, and for two Lents I was a member of a Browning club. This winter we are contem plating Ibsen, and some of us have to stand on tiptoe to do it. 8TUDYINO UP ART AND OEEEK. "One has to know music, too, from 'Die Walkure' to 'Pinafore,' and to discuss art with the confidence of the Quartier Latin. It is really very tatigumg sometimes to keep up with the procession." All of which confirms the original propo sition that to be a fashionable young woman in the year of grace 1890 is a complex and intricate thing. Mrs. Philip H. Welch. BUTTERFLIES IK HARNESS. The Styles Fashion Approve So Tartans That None Need Despair Brain Work Necessary to Look Well Meg's Fight on the Theater Hat. tWlUTTZN TOR TttZ DISPATCH.! HAT styles of the present season are characterized by a greater degree of re finement than ever before must be pat ent to all who have observantly fol- 5 lowed the course of fashions for a term of years. Kever has there been a greater variety of styles to choosefrom; nor of materials, colors, combinations and garnitures. All past ages have contributed to enrich the store of this age; and any woman, old or young, plain or pretty,wbo falls to be rea sonably attractive in appearance with so much seductive splendor to choose from must be pitably lacking in the instinct of choice, or have given the subject of dress no consideration further than that which decided our first mother to adopt the fig leaf. Notwithstanding the rant, which, like Tennyson's "Brook," goes on forever, in re gard to the follies of fashion, and the woful waste of time devoted to the study of what to wear and how to wear it, one has only to notice the army of Flora McFlimseys masquerading our streets in costumes in tended for and suitable only for house wear, and not tolerable upon the street, to be con vinced that more time must be squandered upon this matter before perfection in the art of dressing will have been reached. It looks as if the pen is not mighty enoughj m -mn tHfi 1 All 1 liv. ':'WA THE to effect this reform in dress, so much has there been written upon the subject, and, of course, read, ior where is the woman who does not read the "fashion column" first ot, all; and Flora reads it as regularly and in terestedly as does her wealthier 'sister who persists in shopping nnd going to market in J tne same jewels sne wouin wear to ine sweu est reception, and in wearing the same wrap in which she would make a visit or attend church; these worn over a second-best dress and shoes tbe worse for wear. Not over drawn, I assure you ! "Seeing is believing," and I have too frequently seen this sorry ex hibition of carelessness in dress right here in our own twin cities, and the sight was enough to put on edge all the teeth of good taste even false ones. I am certain this is the result of hurry and thoughtlessness, for nowhere is there more perfect taste or elegance displayed in visiting or reception makeup than among Pittsburg and Allegheny ladies. (Please swallow the antidote, like good girls, and make no rash threats against my false hair). MEN NOT BLIND TO EFFECTS. It is generally supposed if a man likesor loves a woman, as the case mar be, he is in capable of judging whether or not she is be comingly or suitably attired; that if he dis covers anything off color or outlandish he would attribute it to one of fashion's treaks and rest the matter there. I think this not wholly the case. The maiority of men hear enough talked at home to be fairly well edu cated in regard to the feminine toilet at least sufficiently to admire the perfect re sults, though the process remain a mystery; a disclosure of which would destroy the po-tenc- of the effect. For this reason "Clara Belle" moves that we hold the pnttinz to gether of women's wear as secret as Free Masonry. I heard a pretty, bisque-complexioned, dimpled bud remark to some companions, wbo were discassing the relative merits of gowns to be worn at a german: "I don't care a fig whether the girls admire my dress or not so tbe boys do. Girls are always. jealous 1" On the evening of the dance I was grieved to notice this same sweet-faced, short-necked, short-waisted daughter left noticeably alone by the boys she had hoped to attract. And why? The very question I asked one of the beax. His reply was: "Because she looks so funny. What is the matter with her har ness?" Now, it was out of this young man's line to know that the high shonlder puffs, on a level with her ears, which would have formed a piquant detail in tbe ensemble of her long-necked, slim-chested girl friend, made her full throat all too short; and that that the puffed and belted waist, front view, left one to imagine a deformity in the back, and that the full round skirt completed the pincnsbionry effect of the "funny" girl whom no one had the courage to lead out to dance; and all on account of her having been made a caricature of by some one lack ing the instinct of choice. THE BRIGHTEST -WINGS -WTN. How frequently have wo noticed, men credited with any amount of gray-matter, devoting tbe lion's share of an evening to the lightest-weight, but, every time, brightest-winged butterfly, to the neglect of the scholarly bee in the corner who was mentally equipped to disenss entertaininglv any theory past or present, but alasl who looked like a circus. It has been said: "Good clothes open all doors." Is it then a waste of time or a folly to give some consideration to the matter of making righteous selections as to style and material? Is it absurd to keep up one's ap pearance when we know upon that, in a measure, depends our keeping our lover's or husband's affection which, by the way, is often as fickle as the fashions themselves. Let me describe a costume, the prodnct of an inflamed taste, calculated to bring a lover to the proposing point: "Bed tulle gown, red shoes, red hose, red gloves, red furs!" The effect of this costume has been described as one rich warm glow. Wonder what that easily infuriated animal de scribed by Dickens as seeing red in all colors would have thought of this spectacle. Here is a butterfly costume worn at a recent ball which was designed by an artist and the artist was a woman: The skirt was a full one of black armure, draped with tulle. The tulle was caught at the right side with moire ribbons with long flowing ends. Jet butterflies of various sizes appeared to flutter among the folds of tulle, and were revealed or hidden as the draperies swayed or closed. The bodice was ot armure and a large butterfly formed the front its outspread wings tonching with their tips the shoulders of the weirer. A butterfly appeared to hover over tbe ribbon loops which rested on the left shoulder, and another poised on the topmost puff of the fair hair of the wearer which was dressed high could a more charming costume be im agined? VIOLETS A FEATURE. Another handsomegown said to have been worn at a London reception recently was of violet velvet, with a front pane, and vestot violets wee violets crowded close together with now and then a stray leaf in its pretty green shade to relieve the monotonous look. The bodice had a drapery across tbe front which was caught on the leit shoulder with a bunch of violets. Bumor has it that fashion is all in a flutter to announce that cock-tailed basques those awful abominations with buttons are coming across the sea upon her invita tion. It is said "Ouida" wore one to an afternoon tea in London. In view of the general idea society has of the naughty novelist's taste in gowns as questionable as her morals it seems rather absurd to look upon her in the light of a criterion of fashions. I want to call attention to that big bob bing nuisance tbe bat at tbe theater. Of course it is some other hat that is the offender not mine or yours. So we all think. I am sure evil is wrought in this (respect from lack of thought, rather than want of heart. It does seem as if everyone except ourself wears her highest, broadest, most bedecked hat to the play, and as if they all sit front. Come, let us be sensible and kind, let who will be cruel and unjust. Let us start this reform and remove our headgear, or wear something a giraffe can see over; then our sense of justice will be satisfied and we can grumble with better conscience against that hat in front. TIME AND FASHION. At no time has fashion been more inter ested in the flight of time. As if to aggra vate us by the continual reminder that time is not waiting for us, the watch and the clock, with hands held up reproachfully, and faces which seem to be looking mock ingly upon our attempt to keep up, peer and leer at us from all manner of out-of-the- way places. On the stairway the old clock strikes out its solemn warming that this life is short and that there is a life to come; marble ones of French extraction call off time's flight, hesitatingly and in soothing chimes, as if obliged yet dreading to dis turb our pleasures; alarm clocks, with chat tering tongues burl defiance at sweet sleep; and watches tick companionably in pockets and smile back at one from the chatelaiu on bracelet and now we are startled by the announcement that my lady has a miniature timepiece set in the gold clasp of ber garterl Imagination failsl Surely we cannot now be surprised at anything. Meg. Insight. On the river of life, as I float along, I see with the spirit's sight That many a nauseous weed ol wrong Has root In a Feed of right. For evil is good that has gouo astray. And sorrow Is only blindness, And the world is always nnder the sway Of a changeless law of kindness. The commonest error a truth can make Is shouting its sweet voice hoarse, And sin is only the soul's mistake In misdirecting Its force. And love, the fairest of all fair things That ever to men descended. Grows rank with nettles and poisonous things Unless It is watched and tended. There could not be anything better thin this OKI world In the way it bejan, And though i-ome matters uaTo gone amis From the great original plan; And however dark tbe skies may appear. And however souls may blunder, I tell you it all will work ont clear, For good lies over and under. JSUa Whctltr Wilcox, Copyright, 1830. PITTSBURG - DISPATCH, CLARA BELLE'S CHAT. Opulence and Indigence Facing Each Olber on the Same Street. THE POWER OF ST. PATRICK'S MUSIC A Fashionable and Commendable Charity With Wealthy Women. AMUSING LITERARI FID OP GOTHAM icoBRxsroNDKVCE,or inn dibpatch.3 New York, February 8. VEBY grade of fort- une, from the best to the worst, is in evi dence in Fifth ave nue close to Fiftieth street. The Yauder bilt mansions occupy one block, and surely that is an arohitectual exhibit of opulence. The opposite frontage is an orphan asylum, and that constitutes a monument of in digence. All around are the housings of intermediate human conditions. What must be the diverse sentiments engendered by these contacts and contrasts of riches and poverty. In the midst of the mixture stands St. Patrick's Cathedral, the bells of which are liked and disliked by the people of the neighborhood. Of them I can tell a singular, true anecdote. A pretty girl of upper Fifth avenue was a source of worry to her friends up to a month ago. She did not, apparently, have any conception of the discretion that a young woman in New York society must exercise to avoid being gossiped about, and the manner in which she exposed herself to public suspicion was startling in tbe extreme. She struck con sternation to the heart of her mother when she boldly informed her that remonstrance was useless,asshe would doas she liked. Now, it happens that this unwise child resides in the immediate vicinity of the Catholic cathedral on Fifth avenue, in fact, so very near to it that the choir and organ music is distinctly audible to her as she sits in her cozy boudoir. The music in St. Patrick's is undoubtedly the best that can be heard in New York, and it has exerted a purify ing influence over more than one person who has no sympathy for the church that provides it. It was one day about a month ago that the foolish young girl who had so painfully defied all parental advice fell on the neck of a friend and wept while she told of a sndden and strange change of heart "I no longer do as I have done, and I in tend to be everything my mother wishes from this time on," said she. She was asked for an explanation of her reformation, and she gave it. The sacred music from the beautiful church over the way, had filled her soul with noble aspira tions. t ENDOWMENT OF HOSPITAL BEDS. A current whimsicality of wealth is the gifts of money to Jay Gould's children by the multiplc-millioHaire's mother in law, who on dying has left a will devising 5,000 apiece to each of her grandchildren. Of course, only an expression of love was meant, yet it seems-ridiculous on the face of it. However, I learn that tbe recipients will devote tbe money to charity, probably to the endowment of beds in hospitals. That is a charming fashion with some of our fashionable and wealthy women. The in come from a donation of $5,000 suffices to support one bed, and the donor may, if she chooses, designate an occupant. Thus she may, upon learning ot some person poor and ill. place the sufferer comfortably in a hospital. The young Gould ladles intend to use their special inheritances in that way. It is difficult to conceive of a woman whose means are practically limitless beat ing down a tradesman, and yet I know of an instance where one ot the women in a certain family disputed the price of a dress that a costum'er was making for her to wear to a fancy costume ball. The point in dis pute was a matter of $5relatlng to some de tail of the costume. The costumer explained that it was impossible for him to dednct this amount from the bill, and would prefer not making the dress to doing so. "But in my case I should think you would be especially reasonable in your charges," said the woman. The costumer looked at her in astonish ment. Of all women in New York he con sidered that this one might afford to pay what she was asked for an article. SHE PUZZLED THE COSTUMES. V'I don't think I quite understand you," he responded to her remark. "Why should I make cheap terms for you, my dear madam?" "Because," replied the lady, "when it becomes known that I am having my cos tume made here many of my friends will come to you." The costumer could not see the question in this light, and the discussion ended by the lady deciding to take her work else where. In the meantime her two children were having a little trouble together in another part of the room. "What's the matter, dear?" asked the mother of one who was crying bitterly. "She stole my five-cent piece," sobbed the little girl, indicating her sister. The mother secured peace by restoring the money to its rightful owner and promising the other a similar amount if she would be very good until they got home. As the family went out to its elegantly-appointed carriage the costumer said: "Well, I guess that I'm glad I'm poor." DELMONICO'S RIVAL. That woman was neither a Gould nor an Astor, as I ought to explain, because of the preceding paragraph about the former, and this ensuing one about the latter. The Astor matrons have surprised New York by setting up a man in tbe restaurant business in oppo sition to Delnionico. For years all the in tensely modish balls, if too large for private residences, have been given in the Delmoni co establishment, but since the commence. ment of 1890 tbe Astors have held three "at Sherrv's." It is not long ago that Louis Sherry was a waiter at $40 a month and tips. He next opened a bit of a bakery. Astor children chanced to like some of his dainties, then tbe old folks tried them, and outof that good lnck he built up a thriving trade. Now he has opened a separate big house in Fifth avenue, not for casual traffic at all, but sacred to special assemblages. It is thought that Astor money enabled him to do it. Anvhow'the premises are Astor real estate, and prosperity is assured by Astor patron age. Mrs. William Astor gave the first ball and supper "at Sherry's," which indorse ment is of more actual value to Sherry than would be the name of an Astor at the bottom of a note for 5259,000. The flock follows wherever the leader goes. But haw must Delmonico feel? A ONCE GREAT SINGER. The sanio day that an account was pub lished of tbe charitable work here in New York of that retired vocalist and still hand some woman, Annie Louise Carey, I met on tbe streets a cotemporary of hers, a singer who was at one time thr most discussed of any in the country, and who was looked to bv some critics as the artist who was to make America unextinguishahly pre-eminent in the realm of operatic art If the women now dazzling the public by their accomplish ments could have seen this one-time favorite, and realized how utterly she is out of sight ami sound of popular interest, they would be struck with tbe frailty and shallowness of theatrical soccers, and perhaps work with some higher motive than one of reign ing triumphant over the hearts of a con tracted lot ot amusement seekers. The woman on the, street was stout, faded and vtBa I SUNDAY, FEBRUARY gray-haired. She passed along without at tracting a glance of interest from anybody, and I am sure that if an inquiry had been made as to who she was no reply could be got in the neighborhood. Yet this was Clara Louise Kellogtr, at one time far more generally known tban sny singer before the public at this moment. She was the best advertised and most exhaustively criticised figure of her time and profession, and I have no doubt was envied by every impression able girl who ever saw or heard of her. Bot her voice and her pretty face died away, and with (hem went fame. Now the lormer queen of the lyric stage walks about unob served, only a casual old-timer recalling the victories that she onee gained. THE FEMALE BORE. A business woman, whose face is about as well known as any la town, but who always seeks to -avoid public recognition, was snug ly ensconced in an "L" car behind her even ing paper and quietly perusing it Sudden ly there entered the Female Bore, who speedily recognized the other, and decided to let the passengers know without further delay. She sprawled over two or three In tervening sufferers and began observations. "Oh, how do you do, Mrs. A?" she asked in a high-pitched voice. "I want to con gratnlate yon on winning your law suit." "I thank you," said the other quietly. "Is your health better, Mrs. A?" "Yes, thank you." "Not so stout as you used to be, Mrs. A." By this time every man, woman and child in that part of the car knew who Mrs. A was, and the lady was pointed out, whis pered about and rendered generally uncom fortable, while the Bore smirked and beamed with a superior smile upon her neighbors. A LITTLE FEMININE FAILING. Now, that I have struck into a critical vein, let me moralize briefly on the melan choly fact that mendacity is a common fem inine failing. Men have a contempt for small lies. They may perjure their souls to any extent for a suitably large stake, but they would certainly feel ashamed to make the untruthful assertions that women will indulge in, not only on the slightest provo cation, but often without a shadow of neces sity. Women resent the attempts of reform ers in this respect There are certain lies, they argue, that society demands shall be told. Truth in their stead would not only be extremely unpalatable to the majority, but would without question, bring about a state of affairs which must inevitably wreck the whole social system. There are no subterfuges that the gentler sex will not practice by means of the facile falsehood to secure "something for nothing," such as theater tickets, entrance to exclu sive entertainments or similar shows. I re member on the occasion of a famous ball it was stated that society matrons had abso lutely steeped themselves In untruths in or der to get invitations, and I can believe It When such matters are at stake, truth stands but a poor chance. A GATHERING OP FREAKS. New York attempts at the "literary salon" are at times indescribably funny. At these assemblies, it is supposed, are gathered the best brains of the town. In realty they are generally a collection of freaks; that is, third or fourth rate celebrities, or nobodies, who resolve themselves into a mutual admir ation society, or form a fawning circle about their hostess. Somebody who is always go ing to make a great success, sings a song, at which everyone says: "How exquisite." Somebody who in the next century will rival Booth recites something oppressively gloomy, at which every one says:. "How tremendous!" Somebody endeavors to be comical, and is only silly, at which every one cries: "How cleverl" Somebody who is wofnlly ugly, of uncertain years, and in urecian draperies, lets down her back hair and proceeds to howl, yell, groan and hiss, at which every one draws a long breath and says: "How strong, how intense, how dramatic!" Then dry sandwiches and feeble punch are served, and people think they are seeing life in Bo hemia. ONLY ONE PRETTY CREATURE. In one of these gatherings no critical witness could fail to muse npon the frights of women and the stupidities o: men who were there. The only pretty creature in the room shrunk into the shadow of a curtain, while the testhetically-robed, wrinkled, old girls posed and smirked under tbe chande liers. Talk of posingl When a woman who will never see 38 again kneels upon tbe floor and sprawls upon the lap of some fem inine intimate, and gets an intense look upon her rouged face, I feel as if I wanted to go out of there. Clara Belle. A CEINESE CHESS CHAMPION. Tbe Cook of a San Francisco Contractor Does Tip the Town. San Francisco Examiner.! J. M. Wheats tone, the contractor, has a Chinese cook whom he will back in a game of chess against any Mongolian in the city. Mr. Wheatstone and his friend Mr. Walker were playing chess last Sunday night, and the game had reached a point where Mr. Wheatstone thought he saw defeat staring him in the face. He touched his queen's knight in an apologetic sort of a way, and was about to say "white resigns," when Ah Kam, who had been summoned to mend the fire, and who had stopped for a moment to watch tho game, gravely said to him : "Three times more you catch 'em." "What do you know about it?" de manded Mr. Wheatstone, while his guest looked the surprise he was too polite to ex press. Kam blushed to the roots of his queue for permitting the gaming instinct, so strong in all of his race, to get tbe better of him. Without offering to explain he escaped from the room, but at the end of an hour was re called because the two players could not solve the problem which he had involunta rily set for them. Kam timidly approached the board, and, upon being urged to show what ho meant gave the coup de grace in three moves. The two white men then joined forces, but were easily defeated time after time by this Paul Morpby of Peking. "Where did you learn to pl.iy like that?" asked Mr. Wheatstone, who previously had plumed himself on bis prowess. -"Me ketchnm how play in schoolbouse when me little boy like so big," said Kam indicating tbe height of the table. This week several able amateurs have met him at his employer's residence, and he has won nearly every game. AT THE HOME OF OLE BULL. A Yonaff Lndr Wbo If Prone to Giro Amur Bomo Secrets. One day while in Boston, says a violin admirer in tbe St Louis Olobt-Democrat, I went over to Cambridge to call on the widow of Ole Bull and get a look at his fiddles and some handsome bows I had often heard of but had never seen. Mrs. Bull has a daughter, a very pretty girl of 18, who kept up a continual fire of comment upon what her mother was saying. When she got to the bows Mrs. Bull showed me one which had been given Ole Bull by theKing of Prussia or some European monarch. It was an ebony bow, and in one end were set a diamond and a topaz. Mrs. Bull was telling me about the bow, when the young lady, who seems to be a perfect enfant terrible, interposed, saying: "But you know, mamma, tbat the real diamond and topaz were stolen before papa died, and these are not genuine at all." There was a pause, foil of embarrassment to me, for u while, and Mrs. Bull looked uncomfortable. I have often wondered since if the jewels were really stolen or were sold by the great composer to relieve some tem porary necessity. Show People's Strfrerstltlon. Bt Louis Globe-Democrat. Show people are as snpertitlous as gam blets. They have an abiding faith both In "mascots and "Jonahs." It business is bad tbey begin to look aroucd for a "Jonah," suspecting first this man and then that But low clarionet tbey look no further, and ten to one the company will demand his dla- I charge, 1 9. 1890. IEE AND HIS MOTHER. Mrs. Partington's Cooking Delights the Tropical Epicuros, FIBST EXPERIENCE WITH IGUANA. Ike Investigates Wasps, bnt Finds the Scorpion Much Livelier. DOUGHNUTS DEITJ! AWAI WAR CLOUDS WRITTEN FOB TUX PISFATCH. CHAPTER VIL Although Mrs. Partington was in search of health, employment to her was a necessi ty, and she early busied herself with affairs at the cottage, but not in an obtrusive way. Priding herself on her cookery, she took pleasure in imparting what she knew of the gentle art, and found ready learners." New England modes were a novelty, and the dishes she produced won her a wide fame. The fragrance of her cookery vied with the orange blossoms, the little darkies lay in the sun to inhale the odors from the kitchen In the yard, and passersby, taking a long breath, would wonder what newelementhad been added to tropical odors. She had no strict formula in preparing her dishes, but a "thing" of this and a "thing" of that and a "thing" of t'other, and a seasoning ac cording to judgment comprised the whole of her vocabulary of the cuisine, but she was infallible in her department Her atti tude in the realm of doughnuts was sub lime. There were other things besides those previously mentioned, which appeared at table occasionally, in the form of chickens, a pig now and then, white fish from the river, and other things, but the staple of plantainnd salt fish never swerved from its integrity. Among the dishes introduced by Mrs. Partington was a chicken pot-pie, which was a great favorite, skill in prepa ration whereof had been so imparted that it needed not her supervision. On one occasion there came up from the kitchen a smoking pie, the crust brown and crisp, diffusing an odor most provoking to appetite. " ''I declare," said Mrs. Partington, "that is very flagrant, and I wouldn't know tbat it was not promulgated by myself. It is certainly a very credible thing." At the table there was much praise for the pie, and Mrs. Partington was accorded tbe honors for itr introduction. "You deserve the credit of an original discovery," said Mr. Trimble, as he held his plate for another quarter section. "Well, I don't know," she replied, "it Is Feathers of the Fowl. certainly very reprehensible, but I did not eventnate it. It came down to me from a very remote antipathy." MRS. PARTINGTON PUZZLED. When near tbe close of the meal she was observed to be turning over a bone upon her plate, with a dubious expression upon her face. It was a strange object, the bone with three projections, like the shade rest of an argand lamp. "What do you see?" said Mrs. Halsford, looking at her daughter and smiling. Ike was intent upon his meal, and took no no tice. "Well," said she, "I have been used all my life to the anathema of poultry, but such a bone as this I've never before ex temporized." "My dear Mrs. Partington," said Mr. Trimble, "after you have concluded your dinner I will show you the feathers." The meat was very white and sweet, and the dame greatly enjoyed it, but that bone was a mystery that she could not fathom. A three-pronged bone, she said, was a parallax to her. After the repast she went out with Mr. Trimble to view the remains of the strange fowl, and there, nailed to a board was the skin of animmense Iguana, looking like an aligator with arms and legs outspread, the claws distending, with a row of long quills down its back. "Well, well," said she, smiling, "this beats eating frog's hind legs, but never did I think that I should have made so good a dinner from an allegation." "It does look like an alligator," said Mr. Trimble, "of which Mr. Smith said tbat it had an amiable expression when it smiled; and tbe smile of this fellow must have been in the quality of the pie." "If I had seen it subsequently," said Mrs. Partington, "it might have revolutionized my stomach, but it is fallacious to recall the past, and most assuringly it tasted good, and I shouldn't be objectionable to an other." This was an experience of which she had many others, and time flew by on rapid wing. Ike, on the whole, had a hard time of it, with not another white boy in town, but he found refuge in the store below, and made himself as useful as tbe conditions allowed. Once when sent with a message, and having to wait the movements of a lumping servant, he amused himself by penciling a mustache on Improving on Venus. the lips of a Venus 01 Milo that stood in the vestibule, much to the delight of the servant who had to wash it off. There was a splendid mango tree, loaded with fruit, on the low ground near the cot tage, and Ike had a longing for some of the tempting product Like tbe product of the orange tree next door the fruit remained un gathcred, and the temptation for a raid was too strong to be resisted. With Bill, a blsck boy on tbe premises, as an auxiliary, he moved one day, on the tree, getting the fruit involving a little climbing, which he prepared to execute. It was performed without much difficulty, and he stuffed tbe little blouse he wore until it would hold no more, stowing it all around him until he was swelled out like a wind fish. He at tempted to come down, when be was beset, front and rear, above and below, by hun dreds of Utile wasps, called by another name, that disputed bis passage. Tbey had let him up without contesting his right, but tbey had evidently called a meeting and re solved npon an attack. IKE'S WASPS DIDN'T DISCRIMINATE. He swung his arms like the will of a windmill, and called on Bill to corns and help him, but Bill had seen the attack, and, fearing serious consequences for himself, ran away, leaving Ike to fight it out on tbat line, which he did. but was inadequate lor the undertaking, and, attempting to scram ble down loaded as he was, the wasps, put ting in their stings energetically, be sur rendered In the Tower crotch ol the tree, and tumbled down ignominously. The wasps continued their attacks, and Ike, his means of defense all exhausted, got on his feet and started for tbe house, yelling for help. His Jievenge of the Wasps. pursuers were relentless, and he rushed into the presence of Mrs. 'Partington, with a halo of the angry warriors about his head, one of whom, without discriminating, made a dash at the dame and darted a lance into her nose, causing her intense agony, tbe member swelling instantly till it resembled a mangel worlzel beet. Rescue for both parties came, and the in sects were expelled, but the spectacle that both presented was a sight to be seen, not described, and the curtain drops here, leav ing Mrs Partington and Ike to their lotions and emollients, days intervening before the injuries were repaired. "I declare." said Mrs. Partington, as she contemplated herself in the glass, witb an obscured vision: "If I were to renconter myself now. In this precarious condition, I shouldn't know it was I. There's not a lini ment by which I could be idemnified, and the nose is perfectly ubiquitous." The reporter of the -Equatorial Announcer, who got a hint of the event called to ascer tain the facts, and published a column and a' half about it, mostly imaginary, tenderly tonching Mrs. Partington's nose, averring that the hospitality'of the colony was en dangered by the attack on this member. Even Sir Jo'hn Tickler, the Governor, jeal ous for the colony's reputation and fearing the event might endanger tbe peaceful rela tions between the two countries, sent her a sympathetic letter. IKE TACKLES A SCORPION. Slow for Ike was the process of cure, his face mulched with plantain leaves, but be found amusement in rummaging over some old books, long undisturbed, in which be found many funny old pictures which pleased him. He was turning over the pages one day. when a strange lookinginsect, or reptile, dropped upon the floor and was making off as fast as it could, when be tried to stop it. It was a curious looking thing, with a long, jointed tail, about an inch in length, its color like the paper it had escaped from. He reached forward, placed tho book before it, and touched it with his finger. As be did so, tbe creature swung around its caudal appendage and struck him right upon his thumb. Heavens, how he yelled! All the pain inflicted by all the wasps, concentrated, was nothing like it, and he rolled over and over in bis agony. 'Twas'a scorpion which he had often wished he could see, but now wished be bad never seen, though the pain did not last long. DOUGHNUTS TOR THE GOVERNOR. "What do you want to act to like the Probable Son for?" said Mrs. Partington, when quiet was restored, "I wish you would show a little jurisprudence, tor if you go on in this way you will, I am afraid, become an infringement of the family excursion." Ike listened to the rebuke attentively, sticking bis knife into the woden floor. Mrs. Partington celebrated her convales cence by frying a large batch of her grand doughnuts and sending a goodly dish of them to the Government House witb her compliments to Governor Sir John Tickler, who returned his thanks nith the empty dish, and thus assurance was given tbat the conditions of peace would be preserved, un less the politicians should take Mrs. Part ington's nose and make a handle of it, "And the years glide by." Mrs. Partington had become a fixture, her name a synonym for benevolence and profundity, with health measurably attained, but she was a little homesick with tbe periodical return of the Seven Pollies. B. P. Shillabeb. (To be continued next Sunday.) CHARACTER IN THE SOLES. A Carious Fact as to he Wear and Tear on Rhoes. BU Loals Globe-Democrat. The nature of a person can be told by the way he wears the soles of his shoes. A sole and heel that are badly worn on the out sides toward the rear coiners indicate a very passionate person, who is generally enthusi astic, and believes iu performing his duties very lapidly. Such persons proceed up the ladder of lame by jumps, filling tbe highest positions of the profession which they fol low. Not working for money, they only care for glory, which want is never satis fied. Such men were Alexander the Great, Grant, Bonaparte and others. An even worn sole indicates an easy going person, who climbs up the ladder of fame very slowly, accumulating a fortune as he climbs. Such men become our millionaires, but are seldom-noted for their valorous deeds. A sole of which the toe end is badlv worn often indicates a crook or other criminal. Tbe worn condition of the foremost part of tbe sole is caused by the habit of soltlv eliding from place to place on their toes. A sole worn on the inside in dicates a person with very little ambition. Such a person is contented whatever his lot in life may be, and he cares very little for the outside world. DO 100 SEE THE CAT? Oris I" of n Phraso Peculiar ro tho Single Tax Pnriy. St Louis Globe-Democrat Didn't you ever hear a single taxerend an argument by tbe question, "Do you see the cat?" It is a piece of cant, and refers to those puzzle pictures in which a cat was con cealed; in tbe foliage of a tree and could be found only when It was pointed out to one, but was there so-plain that it obssured the rest of the picture. Some single tax man used this picture as an illustration in a speech, and then "Do you sea the cat?" be came a popular phrase with the party. Why is it that people take Salvation Oil? Answer: Because i( is good and cheap. 25 cents, fS? KUSSELL SAGE'S CASH He Commands More Eeady Money Than Any Other Man Living. HIS METHOD OF GETJING EICHES. Tne Standard Oil Company a Model as to Development of Easiness. A BOI SHOULD BE6IK AT TWEKTI-OHB ICOBBZSr02UEXCE OT THE PISFATCH.1 New York, February 8. Bussell Sage carved out his own great fortune of $50,000, 000. He is a notable example of a self-made man. Although he has fora thlrdof aeentury been one of tbe- most conspicuous figures in Wall street, he has not been a speculator in the ordinary acceptation of tbe term. His operations have been conducted on a thor ough knowledge of the value of securities and accurate information as to tbe influences anecting the stock market Thus the ele ment of chance has to a large extent been eliminated. He is believed to have mora ready money tban any single individual in the world. There are larger fortunes than Mr. Sage's, but they are invested in securities, property or business. Mr. Sag has large in vestments, hut so carefully selected that no general financial disaster would make a difference of 10 per cent in them. The reason tbat he keeps so much money oa hand is to accommodate men and corpora tions that require loans. Many a crash has been averted in Wall street by bis money. Of course he exacts interest and collaterals the same as banks, but it often happens that money is needed without delay, and stocks and bonds are of no value in meeting tha emergency except as security ior the loan. Jay Gould once called Mr. Sage the "Grand Old Wheel Horse of Finance." This was intended as a tribute to his reliability in the world of money. "I place no reliance in luck," said Mr. Sage, wben asked tbe old question, "How to Get Rich?" Industry, economy and patience are, in his opinion, tbe requisites. "A man's health," he added, "has much to do with his success in life; and it behooves him to look well after his bodily condition. Ill health will deprive him of energy, which he must use to achieve success. THE SALARY STAGE. "The young man must work on a salary until he is able to comprehend the value of money and also the source of supply and. the ease with which it may be dissipated. He must read books and newspapers to keep posted on tbe topics of the day and the course of human events. It would be well for bim to attend debating societies to qual ify himself to stand on bis two feet and express himself in an intelligent manner. Learning acquired by a young man in his own room alter his labors of the day are over is hard-sained, and for that reason more lasting than the education acquired in the great institutions of culture. The yonng man taught in a fashionable college is a house plant, while the young man who cul tivates himself is an outdoor growth and better able to stand a severe drouth or a severe storm, which all are subject to in the variations ot life. "Tbe question of choosing a business is a serious one. As a rule a young man should adopt the calling for which he has a prefer ence. If be has no particular choice it would be well for him to try different occu pations until he finds one that suits bim. I do not counsel changing about to gratify a spirit of uneasiness, for once a young man is installed in the business that he is suited to, he ought to stick to it I have known young men wbo entered employments re luctantly and after a trial become fond of tbem. A young man must be determined to succeed. WILL POWER A GREAT LEVER. "After all there is one great lever, and that is will power. Without it very few- men succeed. It depends on circumstances whether failures betray incapacity in a man. There are exigencies, to be sure, that cannot be foreseen. The present condition of the coal trade well illustrates the uncertainty of things. The mild, open winter, could not be foreseen, aud has caused great dullness and loss in the trade. Then there is tbe march of impiovement This is an age of competition, and it requires energy and per ception to meet it. It used to take 90 days to find out the condition of the tea crop in Japan or the coffee crop in Brazil. Now an inquiry can be sent and an answer secured in a single day. "The yonng man should start out in the world by the time be is 21. If be is qualified to begin life at an earlier age he should do it. I began as a clerk when I was 12. At IS I was in business for myself and have kept my sign op ever since. I, should say that the average boy could take a clerkship at the age ot 16 or 18. A wrong start need not mean a permanent failure. Many of our most successful men have started wrong and afterward righted themselves. DON'T SPREAD TOO MUCH. "His very seldom that large fortunes are made by spreading out The risk of dis aster is too great. A man should never allow his affairs to get beyond his control. He shonld thoroughly master his business nnd let it grow to its natural dimensions. There is a vast difference between spreading out and development The Standard Oil Trust is a notable example. It keeps within the limit of the oil bnsiness, and yet tbe en terprise is an enormous one. Commodore Vanderbilt was a transportation man. He followed one line of business and his in terests became enormous by natnral ex tension. So it is with Jay Gould. He en paged in transportation and adhered to it '"'Intelligence is a prerequisite to success. One of the wealthiest meu iu America re cently said that he considered intemperance the greatest cause of poverty. It is a great cause of poverty, but the lack of intelli gence, coupled with the lack of industry and economy, is a greater cause. It a man has the will power to adopt wise principles suc cess will come to him." H. I. S. WOJTAh'S WOULD IN PARAGRAPHS. The older a woman grows, the more careful she should be to dress elegantly and becom ingly. Dobotht Beal, an Englisbwoman.receiTed a gold medal from the Paris exposition for ed ucational work. Ik testing tho temperature of water for a batb, find ont whether it is too bot or too cold by putting your elbow into it not your band. THE typewriting girls and women of London bare formed a union to keep wages up. They claim to be "all or mostly ladies ot the edu cated class." Sear, dear! The largest land owner in New York State, except the Astor or Bbinelaoder families, is a woman. Miss Mary O. Plnckney, a mllllonalro many times oyer. Sboha lived to oe 73 years old and is still a Jllss, though she bad all tbat inoneyr Another New York millionaire woman who manages vast real estate transactions per sonally is Mrs. Mary L. Van Doren. Lotta. Langtry and Macgle Mitchell are all shrewd Teal estate speculators, and bave donbled and tripled by investment in houses and lands the , money tbey earned on tbe stage. Isoebsoll Lockwood writes to the Woman's Cycle calling attention to tbe fact that New York, nearly three centuries old. and lull of startllngly ngly statues of men, bas not In all IU borders on single statue to a woman. That, too, tbongb woman's flowing robes and long hair are lar better adapted to be dona in marble or bronze than a man's swallaw tail coat and trousers. Mr. Lockwood also reminds the public that there is in existence a Chariot ta Cushmar, Monument Association, ready and waiting to receive lunds for a statue to Amer ica's greatest actress. Tho secretary of the as sociation is Mrs. Ingersoll Lockwood, 248 West Forty-fourth street ", Two lodges In New York State have found ont what it means to opoose women. Albert Halght was candidate for judge of tbe Court of Appeals. He had formerly given some de cisions which the ladies believed wore unjust to women. Sothysetto work with all their silent aseuclcs to beat bim at the polls. Re sult J dge Haipht ran 4,500 behind bis ticket and was defeated. Judge Barker, of Fredonla, was a candidate for re-election. At tbe nomi nating contention bis friends learned that the women were going to put forth all their strength to defeat bim, and bis name was with drawn, ET.TIA ARCH ABB CCUSES.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers