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EVENING PUBLIC. LEDGBlRrailjADBtJMlk. 'TBXfflb&Y? KOVMm
REAL ANARCHIST OF WORLD OF FASHION
vFtf WOMAN, NOT MODE, SHOULD DICTATE STYLE
e Hen. Mrs. Fortescue Cemes te the
United States With Her Radical-
Views en Costuming Which Have
Startled Staid Londen
SHE MAKES GOWNS WHILE
HUSBAND WRITES VOLUMES
UPON HISTORY OF WORLD
had a moment te sec New Yerk, but T
foci Its activity. Yeu are -e nllve, in i
America. Last night I couldn't go te I
sleep. I had te write about It nil. I '
composed letters until 2 o'clock tills'
She "Met Her Man" j
and Knew it at Once ,
"r- (nll. .. ., ,. 1.1... ... .
., i.t.u.i,. ,ua iii;t u tvi.wiuv itiie.
r.r of the Itcv
Hewaril T'.ecch. rector of (Jrent Heal
ings, Suffolk, nml her name U Winifred.
ii eemeu ;e me mat I eugiit te go
Wife of Librarian te King Geerge De
clares Answer te Short Skirt Problem
Rests With Limbs of the Wearers
'INTRA hurls the padded brick at the glass of fashion and lauphs te
eco the broken pieces.
She is the fashion anarchist, en her own statement; she is the
rangelist of individuality in clothes, regardless of the dictates of Faris.
She also is the wife of the Hen. Jehn Fortescue, librarian nt Windser
te the Kinp of England, and historian extraordinary.
Beth have just arrived in America. ( -
And Cintra will show America hew ' Ing graceful half-secures while she
n Englishwoman can be a geed i weu. -i ve uccn weriang ami worn
vrlfn te n e-rent Fndishmnn nrvl nt ln ever these sewn, nnd I hnven't
tlw same time a busy artist in fem
She took up a "trade," te the
perturbation of her friends and
relatives, because she found it
necessary te help pay for the family
She took un a "trade" because
her husband has Kiven his life te ' ;
im writing; ei a monumental nistery
of the British land forces, which
brings him, by and large, about a
"ha'penny a line" scarcely enough
te keep the growling wolf from any
Husband Gains Fame
Cintra Gets Dollars
This history is a classic. It runs '
new into eleven published volumes '
with four mere te go. Its authority
ia unquestioned, and it is doubtful
'which Cintra enjoys mere her hus
band's success or her own. '
A few moments' conversation with '
Cintra which is the trade name she
has adopted reveals a number of
First. That she is supremely
happy, happy in her husband's work
. and in her own.
Second. That her attitude toward
her work is that of the artist and
Set that of the merchant.
Third. That she must be active,
en the move, every minute of the
She and her husband are stay-1
ilg, while in New Yerk, at the
residence of Mrs. Francis Rogers, i
en Sixty-second street, off Park
avenue. An appointment was made
te interview her at 2 o'clock one
afternoon this week, but it was im
possible for her te keep it.
"The busiest woman I Knew." ex
pltincd Mr. lingers. "At flu- moment
she is detained at the l'laa The
gowns she brought eer with her te
(Bew h demand hpr immediate, atten
tion. She is very sorry. Come tomor
row nt quarter after ft. Shu Mill be
happy te see you then."
"Tomorrow" dawned dark, cold and
foggy the seit of morning which
couldn't pesblblv make any one happy te
.r-; 7U V'Vfc''R;' ' Vir' P-ki , ' "c,ntra"
. r-."J-lMhtim.'ffJiA ?7.SiJW.-! ..,. ' !,.Z ''Jfc''A"'' VVfeHt- "' -?.Ai' ., ,&hmWMGm nftcr veu wear it for a while.
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p any one. 1 he drizzle in the nir left
tmt uncomfertnblc. Irritable.
"Ne, Mrs. TerteHMie in't up yet,"
aafd the mni'l ar tin- iner.
"But there was an apjielntrnent "
"Ves." interruiiiid tlie maid, "but
Mm. rertfTUL' retind .e late. ITew- i
rer, ju5t t.tit a iiieimnt. '
tv-s. Alter a whim she leiiirned nnd smiled ,
U the te? et the ciitrv
"Mr. Fortes ue wnl sre you in the
Held Out as Premise
But Mr Ilejeis was in the sr iJy,
and net Mr. Fert'cie
"She will be hi'ie Mieitly," snld Mrs.
Jtegcrh. "intrn lias luen se lu-i, but
he will ee ynu eien befme the hil
had urenklaM. ami u iminn t keej hit
YOty Ions. She really n ed-i some one
te wnti'li her. Tin dear ehild n e
Ttcleus i-be neM-r thinLs about ber own
4iscomfert. Ami -die j;les perfectly
teTly itlti'l vli'WH "
The wait priced tu be net a Ions one,
raeuch it wn-i net a hopeful one, The
weather, the ecruMnn of interiiiptlnt:.
perhaps, slumber jnu ne, the prospect I
wasn't one te rave mw
J When Cintra. hewewr. eiitned the
room one thought of the poet ami l.U
laiy inlr Mt.e rnrrieii in r ev.n tiranu
of sunshine aieund itlt ber Animt
tien spiced the prace of her lenit. slid
lac strlde; entlititiasm nnd soed nature
m revealed in ber nmlle.
v Mrs. Ferteseue is a tall woman.
yeun and of Hr.klni; fen tut ex. Loek-
at licr, one pletureM thune tall, well-
' formed "I'ln-Me" women uf .lullu-
She was clothed In brown with a
kfewn senrf or brnud ribbon about her
Bd. ltibben or searf it made an
L ttsaea wondered a jrreat ileal what this
'JClffr- il.. 1, ..ll,.,l i.innnt ti, nk.
vx .Ja ai nniflnirni t.i Amtinil her neek
4,S nendnnt te her Unces limit; u string I that I wan interested In biwlneM. Hut
?STjieavy bends. . . , he loved home life, me.
!!,,VWeu t you have porno ereauiait
ijmkl" . nskeil Airn. iieRerj Foucueuniy
Cintra. "The jjentleimm will giauiy
te wen; mis was, or i-eurv, before - " , "4 A"&'
my marriage. My tavtes led me te the I , ' Wt
i 1 -
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The Hen. Mrs. Jehn Fortescue
'Uintra'n place' and lt was plcasurably
"Hut the strain was rather ffreat.
Rcides. I did my husband't. oeeretarial
work ai I ntlll try te de. And it seen
developed that It would really be wiser
te gire up the Hat and open up a
plaev in our own home nt Ilnmpstenfl.
That mused something of a tlurry, tee,
nmenp my fiiends. 'Wli.it, trade In
j our ury home':' They couldn't le
"Our home nt Helly Hi!. Hnrnp
stead, Is Interesting, It Is called the
Kemantln Heme, or the Admlral'H
Heune, after Admiral llnrten, who
built It diirliift the reiyn of Oceree III.
lilts of it me -ViO .eearti old, The old
admiral built thin heue as much In
the manner of n Drills!) raan-e'-wnr ns
wiir iMisslble. lt has n inuin deck and
n mintter deck; his own room was eon een
stiucted like a ship's rabln. My bed
room happens te be a shelter deck.
Flair for Designing
Put te Geed Account
"Hut the most porjteeus thin? about
the estate is the fcnrden. There nre a
series of bread terraces, which descend
te a kind of sunken rose garden. And
the pinto is a riot of lavender, roses
'and foxgloves. It Is n sweet-muilllng
Harden, nml perfectly beautltul. "
Tbl- home of hers lieeame the head
quarters for a progressive business In
Interior decoration. And one day, ns a
pantlme, he utilized some of the rnre
sllki she bad brought from nbreud. and
curried out a design for a Wntteau
Keme time Inter J.ndy Violet Aster,
sluter-ln-lnw of Vlsteuiit Aster, rnme
lu for n chat, and wv tba Wuttenu
freelc, She ivni enraptured by lt. and
insisted en buyliiR lt. She Insisted,
tee, thnt ('Intra had n flair for Kiir
ment dcslftr.lng and thereafter Cintra
developed into one of the most success
ful designers of women's apparel.
Since, hJie has designed gowns for
rejalty and for fashionable women all
ever thfj world. And Doleres, noted
since beauty, net lean aue, net satisfied
with what she found in l'nrls, rushed te
Cintra for the triinklends of creations
which she Is wearing en the streets of
Philadelphia while she Is phi ing here.
"1 display my frocks In the beautiful
Is Real Anarchist
in Fashion's World
"Veu knew." continued Cintra "I
am what I call a fashion imatchl-t. I
bellow the indlWdiinllty of thu wearer
should detetmlnc the kind of dresses
te wear. I preach Individuality. I
don't believe In the se-called st,lcs. If
Is silly te have a season for short skirts
and then another season for Ien skirts.
The length of the skirt should depend
entirely upon Ihe figuie of the weaier.
Tall women bbeuld never wear short
skirts. Short women may wear them,
but if they wnnt te nppe.ir taller thej
ought te wear long ones.
iwrim, right through. If you knew
what I mean. Seme mothers send their
ilauchters debutantes te ine. and
sa. 'Here, de with her as en v. ill.
Se T fix their hair and then, with that
us i beginning, 1 weik out their frec.ts
and their lints.
"I specialize, however. In evening
gowns. And under no circumstances'
v ill 1 make stunt evening gowns un
less, majbe, the gown is for n small
deb with small less and small feet.
'I believe, tee. that evening gowns
ought te be lowed under artificial light.
They've ilxed up for me what they call
'Cinlra'n cave.' It used te be an old
lumber loom, very long. There nre no
liglitn in the loom, excepting a few
i'eisinn casket Limps in the corners. I
have bad the walls painted blaik and
the ceiling grdd. The fleer is cevcied
with black caipel. Sunlight Is shut
nut. And I tinil thnt almost any color
Is effective In this room. The gowns
ure lnld ever chairs nnd divans, and it
is noite striking."
Mrs. 1'eitehcup l especially em
phatic in her resentment against tee
great a commercialization of her art.
"Immoral" te Cintra
"I think It Is n form of Immorality
"I don't draw my designs. I can't I te let a woman buy something which
draw. I uae very rare cloths, and mnt doesn't salt her. lt Is shocking te see
of the tltne they and the personality beautiful dress en the wrong woman.
ami tne ngure or tau women ten inn ' I iiuu tnut meHt women nre open
what te de. I drnpe the material and
change and change until I reach the
meit satisfactory combination. He
sldes'. I hnve thu most wonderful cut
ter that ver was it mal.es it all very
"What I like best Is te take n
minded. I find that they nre willing
te be shown that a hnrd-aud-fnst ad
herence te style is devastating te what-
em beauty they may have. I say te I moods would facilitate
:i woman who is intent en buying the Cintra, but for mere man man
ivreng gown, I say te her: 'I can't let . Well, n cigar seemed
jeii have that. It doesn't suit 1110. It i clothes for moods!
mustn't taue that one.' And tun
"And, after nil, I find it pays bt
te be frank, even in a business wiy.
My work will he only two years oil
In November, but it has been am
Ingly succcbsful. Any my chief joy Is
le see one of my gowns en n woman
It suits, rather than te receive th
money for it."
Of nil women, Gintrn in persuaded
te say, American women give ber the
"They knew exactly what they want.
And they don't light me. , They don't
try en everything in the place nnd tbt
Americnn men are Just like that. Thsy
Imve llfe and energy, and minds that
knew somehow just about what they
"Whnt is the most becoming color?
In my experience among the various
shades et the azalea, ranging from yel
lowish cream, through peach color,
mnlr.0, coral nnd flame-pink, there is a
tone te suit everybody. Celer is. how
ever, net se Important as the suiting et
a wearer's personality.
"As a matter of fact, a wemnn's
mood and appearance nre seldom nllk
en two successive occasions, and conse
quently whnt may brceme her dlvliisly
today will net be effective tomorrow."
Clntrn paused for a moment, and in
that moment Mrs. Ilegers returned te
"Clntia. dear, you hnven't bad nnr
breakfast!" And then te the visitor,
"She must be starving."
Talk of Fashion
Routed Meal Thought
I "liut l in net Hungry, f.iiu vinira.
, "A person's clothing," she resumed
hurriedly, "helps a grest deal te keep
the mind young and healthy. If I were
wealthy. 1 should wear a dress for every
mood. It would be lovely ! I should lore
it! I "
"Hut you must get a bite of break
fast, my dear; you simply must!" In
terrupted Mrs. ltegcri, and wblsked
her out Inte the breakfast room, leaving
n mere mele visitor standing there,
thnnklng the henveus that no buck- de
sire troubled him.
"A dresi for every mced!"
It seemed almost impossible for any
ene te have enough dresses, and, be
sides, think of the everlasting chsng-
Of course se active
se apparently gny all the tlme ,
nnrlifinn hep henntlfllt KlinellcltV Of
Mr. and Mrs. Fortescue
theatie. I ttmlicu under Sir Prank It has helped me present mycn.tumes;
Hnnsi.ii. nml seiin wns iiLIk te beiiln I11.V I it lias Strengthen! d my fei'ling Mr
uri! en the nmfesKienul siace. what drama
"One day I went down te Dorset,
nnd there 1 met my man'"
Jehn I'erteM'iie was u man of mid
dle agu at thnr time, distinguished
loeklna as he Is today with little
pleasant crew' feet at the ejes
lle had entered lhj room only a mo
ment before Mr. Fortcuue. lie seemed
cerdlul, though with an air of abstrac
tion "He loves people te work for their
own bread, nnd lie w-as nappy te niiew
tin re Is in the line and
oler of clothes themselves Ten. 1
i learned a grnt de-il about stage light
ing, which has lulpiil me in ni, inaiine
' iium puiadis "
Fortunately, Mr. Fnrtesi ue held a
i position width gnw him u comfort. ih!
H.tlaiy If net an ewrlj gnicieim one.
I He was and is llbiatl.iu te the King,
l.i went gui'islng' Is ever h'Tv? II
a fans 'complaining, being dissatisfied.'
I li iiimj history bring i in only nbeut
.1 'la'penny a line we've figured that
nut! Hut we ,ire satisfied becnuse it Is
Mich n ibihsn; wink Smh tin Important
"With nit th's weik, It seemed te
me, alter we weie married trmt my
husband ought te give up his history
Breakfast?" laughed Cintra. as If
t - .1 1 1 I- l..n .inn ' T ' l llrtf
aau uuu it i"iib w
tre$ Put Verve
tfUe Spirited Talk
fe must cat:" said Mrs. itegers.
reu Knew, i rannei gei niw
gn Cintra, when sue mvi
"eUilr.'-gh did met sink
tea tte otte ec tt, :
with his books and ellice-i nt Windser T" '"", "n" "-t. "e uwierBioeu we
Castle. needed the money, thnt his giving up
w:n.iUr.n lib.. .. m'i tf -,m i "''it i'"i"'-iiiiir iiisierv wumw iura
Short Stage Experience
Aided Later Career
"Veu sefl, my husband la bus all
day, and when he would be ready te
leave the study I would be ready te
leave for tlm theatre. We wouldn't
see ench ether much. We felt that
such an nrrnngemciit wasn't feasible.
Wouldn't work ut nil. He I decided
te give up the stage That was in
lOlil. In 1014 e were married."
Mrs. Fortescue is happy for her
MtMrimce la the theatre." '
JwMil'feft-'See the drsJPfttic JnttM
Londen, and Mr. Feitcscups rew.,uch
for bis history keeps him ti.iveling i).
tweeu the two plnces. He is n younger
brother of thu present I'.'irl Ferticu.
Mr. Ferteseue began his gient hbi
tctv nt t! beginning of the nlnetirn
bundierls, and has been weiklng en it
steadily. During the war he was nslad
te write a history of the Weihl War.
This gae him but little time te devote
te what he calls his llfe wnk.
"This history of the war nfferdrd him
seme recompense, but I saw that he
nrefcricd te weik en the lamer IiIh-
tery. Veu mustn't think thnt tlmre is
any grousing becaube the anny history
doesn't pay, out ' sne interrup
,aTWii u ass; "i wenuer 00
considerable imiialal dilferenca te tie
"After gnin,; the mutter much
tlieught, I conceived the Idea of open
ing u little nit treabure shop In the
West Hud. And my husband resigned
his pest cs war historian."
Mrs. I'oiteseue'u decision met with
some net altogether fnvorable comment.
Entering "Inte Trade"
Brought Adverse Cemment
"And it wasn't ery cany. I used
te get into my little "West Knd shdV nt
about R o'clock every morning, nnd
sweep up, and straighten out the dis
play, btny there most of the day, and
go home late in the afternoon, This
ft up for eme Urns. X.esllei'll
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