Evening public ledger. (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1914-1942, March 08, 1915, Night Extra, Page 11, Image 11

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niiiiii HiintHtoSttSaMtmi
Prominent Merchant Discusses
I Season's Fashions for Benefit
I of Women.
i .n liken to look pretty, nnd
F,rndto beauty now oxtats than
!Ert and becoming hat, well adjusted
mX:..Il with an eye to harmonl7lng
'?,a..nd complexion. It Is extrnordl.
2 1'w . iiole the transformation wnicn
iSK'&l chon hat can bring about in the
"S-BtiM !''" t the most ordinary woman.
4V7, tewon's hats nro wonderfully at
W' r Mvr before lias thcro been
?"1 In Infinite variety In shapes, color-J?-?i.rial
and harmonious blending.
r& iirlleu r, the shapes of tho new
. i. it very Important. They are de
M.i'lmln. nnd the colonial and
&" rtepnerdcM sailors lead In popu
UWMn choosing a hat, the greatest care
isvi. whole Too many women are con
.! irtlh a pleasing front view and Ig
... Reappearance of tho hat from tho
Kit .nil tides It should be remembered
;ft the back view of n hat Is quite as
Kl,, any other, and that It
ijwff harmonize appropriately with th
COi.7... t..-a nf til a RPHflnn flTft PJC-
JMt Seagull gray Is very prominent.
?.i . ii.tv lone known ns crushed rose,
while thcro -n til be n great ilcmnnd for
ill Hie military colors such ns Helglan
ilk Indian sellow. Ilus'lnn green nnJ
tftoie wonderful Cossack reds We cer
lnlr have an Infinite vnrioty to chooso
torn and all are nttrnctlo and smart.
,!.. .mnllrr hats arc generally rather
cUtn and "erc In crtcct, whllo the larger
hit are dressier Cloudllko extensions
cf chllfon or crepe give a charming sha
dow effect to the dressier lints
Borne lovely models have chiffon brlmi,
lth nressod flowers Inserted between
law of tho chiffon The effect of this
.quite fnlryllke, nnd the blending of tho
(lower colors Is softened and hnrmonlzcd
by the telling of chiffon A great popu
irilv for this pretty style will take place
later In the season
"Ostrich feather crowns arc very new.
They re erv becoming to the average
woman and gle a thoroughly dressy rook
to the plainest hat
Tlnwir trimmings are nbundant. It
willv Is wonderful whnt nn Infinite a-
rtely can be Introduced In this connec
tion Nature can bo reproduced with
the greatest nccuracv, and enn almost be
Wproved upon, for such fancies as bluo
and mnue roses, jellow lolcts, bluo
dallies bloom with the moat natural air
on the spring millinery.
Streamers are ver popular They give
laeh a quaint, oUl-fnshloncd nlr to hats,
tnd one thinks of old paintings when one
lees them Quills, fancies and ribbon
tewa are also much In vogue Such mnr
Villous things can be accomplished with
l few lengths of ribbon In c!eer hands.
Jet trimmings nre seen on n great many
if the nowest hats Black chiffon and Jet
mike a wonderful combination, and sev
eral hats of this combination carry no
ether ornament at all.
'The new hats nre In a nrlety of straws
and tt)les. Neapolitan straw Is smart
and there Is a demand for it Bamboo
to popular, and tagnl, whllo crepes nnd
chiffons look particularly dainty nnd
attractive. Leghorn will be much In re
quest and It lends Itself to so many
pretty combinations of color that Its
popularity Is assuied Tho leghorn re
quires little trimming a twist of French
blue ribbon around the crown and a soft
pink rose will mako a charming effect
extremely largo hats will bo most
popular this season Picture hats are so
Kcomlne to the nveraco woman that h
I".wIm to Include one In her millinery
.Poke shapes nre also popular. One leg
horn hat 1s Dolly Vardon shape has a
large roll brim with a blue chiffon crown.
Ion? streamers of bluo velvet and a large
trench rose In front It lnnWs fvniilolto '
ijie display of hats Just now Is qulto
exceptional And not only nro they smart
Md. attractive, but nt tho some tlmo
they are something really new and
Original. SAMUEL, D. LIT.
Milady's Lingerie
r Never before, unless It was In the days
of Napoleon's ga and luxurious court,
waa lingerie bo appeallngly feminine,
end Incidentally so extravagant But
nobody stops buying it for that trifling
reason for milady wants exquisite
wraps and clinging negligees, she sim
ply goes out, bujs them nnd sends them
Transparent materials of nil kinds are
wed In making these undergarments.
Chiffon Is a favored fabric this year, nnd
Georgette crepe Is second In demand.
Fuasy willow taffeta and handkerchief
linen are also used, although they nro
not so extensively popular as t'no crep6
at chines and chiffons.
Negligees are beautiful in design and
exquisite in their colorings this season.
any Of them havn nnnmnrlnti. tlHaci
such as "the orchid," or "the gardenia,"
W. One of these was made of flame
colored chiffon, with a velvet coat of
Uie tame shade. Tho bodice, If you could
Mil It that, was made of palest fles'n
wiored chiffon, shaded to deep flame and
jack to white. These were artistically
jraped across the bust, being held In
Place by strips of sliver tissue. The
Ijj from the shoulderB In a plain line,
mnch bouquets finished off the shoul
i and were tacked on tho skirt.
M." attractive orc"nld gown was car
f " u I" the same plan, the trimmings
tttog pale.plnk orchids,
fcmnch underclothing Is not so com
0B th' season, nnd it Is doubtful If
I?!."'' creations could rival our
i Cftn 3tyle. Unless it be in fine
ona-embrojdered models. One novel
tCeatiOn Or fnrlm mal.. .. a nnl. nt
wine pajamas with embroidered collar
- mat m the pastel shades. Tho em-
'Kii r. con!llted of little rosebuds with
l.s 'f1 th natural shades. They wero
jjTirr unique and pretty.
r"JT.,,op8 combinations and chemises In
fiSrf rchlet llnen and nn baatlate, with
K vi . and eolii embroidery In front, are
C.JTTt "tylea for the conservative
lA ul,yi" dislikes colored undercloth-
NI-reen ribbons are taking the
r n we baby blue and plnU -which
J f worn In .former years.
ftBelta for Tailored Suits
."7.'" th8 f"19 tor tbo stout woman
& tMolce, for, indeed, her hour has come
M lt. No longer will she nave to look
?' " helpless envy while her Blender
jj-i.c mvow around In wide, graceful
gc Bhe wUI never have to ait sllent-
'" na watch the conquest of the
E'eafriadoff by a clinging vine. The
jy fM turned at last, and the "sturdy
f?.i . yp of woman can reat assured
4i.i. " woman can
I ai"V roinyroom is over
The spring
lowf'J Prves conclusively that the nar
0 belt has come to atay,
I Buttons
fm SU dona wblla you nit.
EV 51,' n". Aeeordlen and Bunny
felryat t'h plr,c" od lulek U"
Parisian Plaitlnij asd Novelty Co.
two ho. iatn hi.
' ZmBtUH PMMWSR smSmJmBlM rtZv"'' "MmmlmS4W!i "-1' l
mftxmm-s"- v-,-- .&;' JKTLifiii. ? ;.. .i&XLM
New Footwear
A pretty foot Is supposed to be a great
asset to a woman's appearance If wom
en look more time and thought ocr tho
purchasing and tho fitting of their foot
wear the effect would certainly be In
finitely more pleasing to tho eo.
So many women seem to Imagine that
any sort of thing will do In tho matter
of foot apparel Yet the whole toilette
con easily bo marred by an Ill-looking
shoe, Just ns tho temper nnd the 'ncalth
can bo spoiled by a badly fitting one.
In purchasing boots and shoes, tho
great matter Is to have ft prdper fit. This
cnoico or nt snouid really bo left to the
salesgirl, who Is trained to study tho re
quirements of each Indltldual customer.
"It took slzo two beforo I was married,
10 years ago, and I Insist upon wearing
the samo now," declared a woman once
"But your foot may havo grown since
then," murmured tho salesgirl
"Impossible," was tho answer, "for I
had stopped growing then, I can assure
you, my dear. No, I shall look nt size
And slzo two didn't fit her In tho least
It cramDCd her feet dreadfully and really
must hao caused her considerable pain
But nothing could move tho good lady
from her choice. Sho couldn't under
stand that 10 years of tramping around
a 'nouso, running up and down stairs 100
time a day at tho call of a large fnmllj,
standing for hours In tho kitchen over
a gas-cooker, could poEPtbly tend to
mako tho foot spread and broken.
Tho wise womnn will, therefore, bo
guided by tho salesgirl In tho cholco of
size. Tho foot should bo carefully meas
stired ench time a pair of shoes Is pur
chased, and they should be chosen a llt
tln larger than necessary.
-Many women In Philadelphia have very
small feet. Wo havo quite a demand
for size one At tho same time It must
be admitted that slzo nine is also qulto
Out in Chicago slzo 10 Is sold a great
deal Western women are heavier In
build, though not bo necessarily taller
than the women in the East.
We are particularly careful not to put
anything inside the s?ioo to Irritate tho
foot. We aold Inside seams like tho
plague. How tho women of England can
tolerate some of tho shoes sold over
there Is remarkable! Tho seams, the
roughness of tho Inside, finish, must really
bo painful to endure
Philadelphia Is famed for Its fine shoes.
Just ns Phlladelpnla Is famed for the
smartness of Its women In matters of
dress The women drcsa quietly, In ex
cellent taste, their clothes built on scien
tific lines and of excellent fit.
Nine-tenths of tho better grade of
shoes nro made In Philadelphia. There
Is a close connection between the changes
In fashion of shoes nnd the change
in fashion of dress Tor Instance, be
foro sand-color became popular for wom
en's sult-wenr, the sand-colored tops ap
peared on all tho boots. There didn't
Beem to be any rhyme or reason at first
why this should bo so But later, when
the gowns and suits of sand-color ap
peared, the boot tops were explained.
There Is no accident, no chance In the
changing fashions of boots nnd shoes.
They are created to harmonize with the
plot'nes. The shoo pattern man keeps
right up to the minute In fashion.
There Is this difference In the making
of suits and gowns and the making of
boota and shoes whllo a gown can be
made In a couple of days, it takes four
or five weeks to construct a shoe. From
20 to !5 different people handle tho shoe
beforo It reaches completion. Prom tho
cutter to the flnlsner the processes it
undergoes are 'many and varied, but all
An average price for boots and shoes
1b 5. The average woman la willing to
pay this amount.
Tho boot that laces up the side is pop
ular. The lace boot and tho spat boot
Benj. B.Lewis
1535 Chestnut St.
Take Elevator
Grauner Gowns
The fashion ehow of Spring and
Summer models enables us to ehow
our patronesses the value of fine
workmanship at moderate prices.
Our gowns and suits with full
skirts are known to be unsurpassed.
Ladles can furnish their own ma
terials. Summer Dresses. . . . $15 and up
Linen Suits. ....... 2t5n and. "P
Serge SulU ? ""d "P
J531 N. Broad St.
X' 'roSPiWr itF! -rrr!,'1lrS
tM wWimmmm m I iwk
. & M&. smm immmm'fmnmn ilNisisKiX stf Ulllifflii'L --dL
f ' wFBfMtinF ifi SIHTs
. T-7 r skdSii .tW
'v,' ' " " '""" " 1 1 , "' you oan Imagine; high In back and low lllllS?yjiSSSt? irBU
k ' m
n ,.
1 -fr. ...v,&
-. Zeiss'? S
X'-.?..! FN. 7i-)HBv -i"
will be In demand all summer. The ma
terials used will be light-color cloth, pearl
gray kid, putty kid and sand cloth The
short skirts look better with boots of
this type than with the low-cut shoe
Good Fit
In Corsets,
No matter how new
or pood the style in
corsets is, unless
tho Pit is perfect,
the effect is lost
Our corset experts
devote particular effort to fitting
every customer.
Walnut St
Atlantic City More. 1CS7 Boardwalk
SW i:''5al - u
"Vvv 'MIM.UMU, LI -a"-", u.
- zi$ttii8r yN
r . w.-yf -i -j y. hjiwh" ..I'.tjwy t sa.i. z je:i
I This Week We Unfold I
Correct Fashions g
Women's & Misses' Dress i
m Spring 1915 jgl
Coats ' Dresses gjp
JH Suits Skirts Blouses B-j
I 1222 Walnut Street I
I "Style Without Extravagance"
Milady's Clothes
The peasant note In spring fashions is
to bo seen at every turn. It makes
Itself known In the tiny Jackets and wide,
flowing skirts Thero can be no doubt
of the origin of such a combination.
The newest skirts may be an Improve
ment on the tight ones in some things,
but they cannot bo said to have the
classic grace of line which wo had In
some of the draped oreatlons.
Great simplicity Is the keynote of the
spring street costumes, and nowhere Is
this found more true than In the cloth
fabrics, where distinction of line and
plain effects, achieved mainly by novelty
of weave, Is seen In tho coverts, home
spuns and basket weaves.
Even such an important item as trim
ming Is also plain. There Is a perfect
furore for braidings of all kinds, In
plain nnd fancy patterns, applied by
hand or by machine.
Tho familiar vormlcelll pattern has been
roWvcd, and tho single serpentine borders
are applied singly, In rows and clustered
together, forming a deep border on tho
coat or skirt
Black is very largely used for plain
and figured weaves.
Accessories in Dress
Milady may glitter and snap with
spangles or shake with tassels from
every part of her dress and be right In
Ashei of roses is an old color which is
returning to favor.
Choker collars are here In every variety
t tTkiutHco itier
10c Per Yd., All Materials
you oan Imagine; high In back and low
In front, and high all the -way around.
Tucks are very fashionable on th chil
dren's dresses, and smocking is another
fa orlte
Simplicity Is the keynote of dress goods
for the spring.
Fullness In the newest petticoats Is very
evident when MUndy swhihes post, and
some of the sklrtB measure 4 nnd E yards
around the bottom, although the major
ity are about 2H sards wide
The very latest Georgette crepe and
chiffon blouses are shirred and smocked
at the shoulders, giving a rather round
shouldered effect.
Dye Gowns?
Tes, Madam, wo certainly do ij
5 owns, expertly of any material to
etlrea ahada In connection with
our famous French Dry Cleaning
Our charxea ara very fair and
nominal for such Important work.
rhono Walnut 6503.
Primo Dye Works
Cleansers and Dyera.
510-12-14 South 13th St.
211 South 15th St.
George Allen, inc.
1214 Ckeetnut Street 1214
Imported Paris Model Hats
and Our Own Creations
Remarkable Sriowmg
Untrimmed Plats
in all the new fashionable shapes and braids.
Flower Department
Our department for flowers and millinery
trimmings has been greatly enlarged, so that we
arc in a position to show you a larger variety than
ever of the newest novelties for the coming season.
Spring Opening 3P an Exhibit
& resteer
Foreign creations and Preiser's exclusive designs in ready
to wear Suits, Wrafs, Street and Evening Gowns and Waists,
all at notably moderate prices.
We have an inexhaustible collection of models and fabrics
to select from in our custom order department.
Your patronage Is cordially solicited.
tJDfjc "ETfemw Hfjop
1531 Locust Street
'""""i 'WiiTTO -
For the Smart Woman
A simple but decidedly smart spring
costume seen tho other day was made of
Pin checked material In black and white.
It looked so much like seagull gray that
one had to look twice to recognize the
real color. The skirt was fulled onto a
band, -which formed the belt, and fell In
Inrge godet folds at the hem. The waist
was a plain little Jacket effeot
These little sacques, as they are called,
reoall the early "Victorian days An old
pink silk pongee or moire Is the favored
material when a small hat, poke efleot.
and ooeked up In the back. Is worn with
this, It makes a very piquant costume
Berpenttne braiding Is very much worn
on tho skirts of the new gowns Sou
tache Is popular, too, and military
touches are seen In the shnpe of epau
lettes, clasps, buokles and such orna
ments. onQr
nxatao aunt
"9 A. M.
and the
Done "
Tho 9-pound Frantz
Premier, small and com
pact. Upstairs or down
stairs it can be carried
with ease and operated
with scarcely any effort.
You can have one deliv
ered to your homo for a
trial demonstration put
it to any test you desire.
Don't -wait till houseclean
ing time, telephone today.
IescUnc Storea and RIectrio
Shopa. Cull them or Market
415, (or a demonstration In
your home.
Frantz Premier
Distributing Co.
730 Market St. tiiiiid ixoob
TTTrrnrnnnrTfmfirfii'fiTOir -irrfrtriwii
The New Skirts
Woolen weaves have been made so sup
pie and so soft by modern manufactur
ing processes, that they serve equally
for either Bilk or cloth
This resemblance Is oven more clearly
seen In the many combinations of the sea
son's favored light weinht clotU weave,
nnd the host of lovoly silks, ach fabria
emphasizing the beauty of the other
Even the most conservative now admit
that tho full skirt, so long threatening tO
transform the fashionable silhouette Hto
n now shapo, has actually come Into Its
own It promises to mlo the world of
fashion for six months, nt least, If not
for the whole year.
In heavier materlnls the gored aklrt will
prevail, nnd for the mors supple plaits,
gatherings nnd shirrlngs will bo In style
Tho -woman who has laid away for fu
ture reference perfectly good dresses of
ample width would do well to carefully
examine their possibilities. Doubtless,
with very Uttlo trouble, they can be sue
oensfutly transformed Into fashionable
ooertumes for the season.
Staed Alone!
'"THESE tlireo models
among tho best-known
Nemos dato back four, fivo
and ten years. Details havo
been conformed to changing
fashions, construction and
fabrics nre improved: but tho
hyglcnta features novo re
mained the same.
These models are In
greater demand to-day
than ever before.
What does that mean?
means that women who
have Worn them can't do
without thtm. Thero fe no
sulstilulo. No other corset
can givo equal style, ease,
long wear, and
Through all the foolish
corset fads the Nemo has
como out stronger, more pop
ular than ever.
No. 322 $3.00
For alt average fall figures. Firm
support. Madlom iklrt with Lutl.
eurva-Oaek. MbJIain butt. Sliei il
to 88. No. 320 It tame, with longer
Idrt. ,
For Urge figures, fleah evenly dis
tributed. Seml-elutle Kaliaf T&aadU
give fin support. Iadlam butt, Lang
aklrt with Liitlcarve-13cJc SUM 12
No. 523 $5.00
For full, haary figures. Famous
Laitlkopa llandlat gives Darfact aup.
port from underneath. Btronsh rec
ommended, by doctors. Medium buat
and skirt. 81x 83 to 16.
No. 341 $3,00
The new Tnvlibla" Self -Reducing,
with concealed supporting atiapa. Al
ready a great favorite with womaa
who need N.ino Self -Red uctag nrvle
but like a corttt a bit lighter, U4
satosa. i
Be a Wise Woman!
Get the Nemo Habit
lit Vmm Ifo2K4b ktttai. K. t.
irfi'iiiini-iiiir'nnii jiirtmirr"iiiiiririiiiiTTiTrmirn