NEWS FOR THE FAIR SEX NOTES OF INTEREST ON NUMEROUS FEMININE TOPICS. School for Women Librariang«-Fashiona- le Colors---How to Lead a Bicycle. A Word About Complexions «= The Vogue of Plaits---Etc., Etc, School for Women Librarians. Berlin now has a school for women librarians. One of its two courses of instruction lasts six months, and is for the training of librarians for the ordi nary public libraries, while the other, of three years, prepares the students to take their places at the heads of scien tific libraries, Fashionable Co! ors. Green is a fashionable color this sea son, and charming effects are created by uzing its varying tones. Even hats are made of green straw, Other fashionable colors are a pale old blue called Corot, an old-fash- foned lavender revived as De Neuville, a deep straw named Roybet bluet lighter than the regulation color. Diaphanous materials are extensive- ly employed in combination with braids, flowers and foliage. Tulles and chiffons are much especially to veil flowers; laces are also seen. Ornaments of cut steel, jet, rhinestone or pearl give a touch of dis- tinction to nearly every example of fashionable millinery. nsed, How to Lead a Bicycle.’ Some women lead a wheel handle-bar, but it is obviously impossi- ble to guide it properly in this way. The correct method, however, is vast- iy different from these. The wheel should be grasped by the centre of the handle-bar, with the fingers turned up and divided around the head-post. This way of leading keeps the machine fur ther away from the body, so as not to interfere with walking by it, and at the same guides it most easily. If one wants to lead an idle wheel while rii- ing (though it takes an expert rider to do this safely) this ix the only way in which ft can be done. Instantly that it swerves too close or too far, the front wheel is lifted from the ground, and the idle wheel Immediately recor ers its balance Harper's Bazar, A Word About Complexions The conflicting advice of reputed au thorities long ago led to the despairing exclamation: “Who shall decide when doctors disagree?’ The woman Iu search of beauty or anxious to learn the best way to retain It finds a dering variety of advice cialists in treatment of the complexion advocate face steaming. Others con demn it with unhesitating That the latter are probably correct is to be inferred from the experience of a New York woman sult pot long ago. first words utterad by specialist were: “You have been steaming your face.” Her patient asked: “How did you know?” answer was: “He cause the skin dry, withered and flabby. [I can see at a glance when a woman uses hot water or steaming.” “Hot water should be used a day, merely for cleanliness, Sponge the face softly with a pure soap and hot water, either at night or in the morning. to remove dust and open the pores. Then bathe thoroughly with clear, cold water until the skin is in a glow, and finish by applying a good cold cream of glycerine, rosewater and benzoin lotion.” bewil Many spe severity who went to Almost the “On one the [he ono The Vogue of Plaits, Three-fourths of the new costumes show plaits In one form or another. Plaits and tucks are not at all suita- ble for heavyweight cloths, but there are this season cloths in 80 many dif- ferent weights that it is not diffienit to choose one that Is suitable The fashion, however, ia seen at its best in the thinner and more flexible materi als and In silks, and a model gown that will be seen a great deal is of taf feta made without any trimming what ever, but tucked sleeves, skirt and waist. In a dark color this makes an exceedingly smart gown and is delight fully dainty in the light coolrs. The belt and collar can be either jeweled or plain, with a jeweled buckle, depends on how the belt and collar are treated. But even when lightweight fabrics are employed it is rather difficult for the dressmakers to follow out satis faciorily the new fashions of the plait ed skirts and at the same time close-fitting ones, To do away with the clumsy appearance that plaited skirts are apt to have requires no end cepted by the new woman in Chicage the city will furnish an interesting ex hibit at its next exposition. The “Wo man with the Hoe” Is historically not a novelty, She has been a feature of the agricultural landscape of Europe for several centuries, and the consen sus of opinion among returning Amer fean travellers who have seen her Is that she is neither a thing of beauty nor a joy forever. She is classed by our own poet as “sister to the ox.” This, however, is a question of taste Chicago, with its vast horticultural possibilities, may prefer the woman with the hoe, but New York will try to get along with the woman in the tailor-made skirt, the Eton jacket and Flowers All the Rage flowers are to prevail in hat Some Paris models are made wholly of the small er blossoms. Many flowers and great quantities of follage are to be used These are made In all delicate hues, exquisitely shaded, veined and mark ed, and some blossoms are composed a dozen different materials velvet, chiffon, satin, in reproduce more faithfully the peculiar luster or softness of the natu ral flower. Both silk and mull make soft and beautiful flowers and are eas ily handled in the erimping or crush ing process which distinguishes many of the fashionable flowers. A new style of crinkled effect is seen on the order of the fancy plaiting of chiffon which has been popuiar the psst That silk, order to ete, HO are those that have the piaits caught down-—not merely tacked down, but caught through far down on the skirt and with the extra material, if there is extra material, cut away beneath. this which will, of course, prevent the skirt ever being made over In another able to wear madeover clothes. The Woman With the Hoe, a place of residence are brought into prominence by the recent meeting of the Ilinois State Hortleultural Socle- ty, at which one Mrs, ©. A. Mead elicited rapturous applause from the assembled horticulturists by singing the paean of “The Woman with the Hoe” Carried away by her enthusiasm Mrs. Mead sald te her hearers: “If you desire relief from social and do- mestic cares throw off your corset, put on a gingham gown and acquire peace of mind and hesith by boeing pota- toes.” The will be the most flower in millinery effects. rose popular All sizes, the small, pale pink button rose to the huge red cabbage rose which blooms in kitchen gardens, are being made for spring hats. Perfectly huge, crushed and erinkled roses are seen, the ten dency being toward large effects, A great many sprays are shown, three or four full blown roses, sometimes with two or three harmonizing colors fo a bunch, being made up with long sprays of leaves, which also are very much larger than heretofore. The gar- land is one of the favorite fancies in floral decoration In some of these flowers and folluge are combined with artificial, as, for instance, a bunch of deep-toted violets surrounded by pal est green transparent leaves and a garland of same flowers in differ ent shades, running from deep purple to pink. A bunch of large pink roses and transparent white follage is to tiny white buds. uatural colored the joined a garland of and pink Ss Rubber Cloves for the Hands. Women would hardly that sinte the affect hand Yet nowhere sickness show itself qui The secms to shrink away and the Knue The skin loses ts freshness and becomes pallid think the of health would the will 80 kly flesh ie bones become pathetic 100, clammy, which Is worse The clammy hand is the most uncom fortable in It can only treated through system, caused by some physical deep for probing There hands whose beauty no amount of hard work could destroy and hands which are so sensitive that the ordinary duties life affect them. For such is a deal of protection in the rubber gloves, which can be bought in any size. They must large enough to allow full play to the muscles and must be kept out of hot water or their usefulness is gone. They can be worn in all branches of housework except cooking and sewing. As for the nails, the woman who does not have a manicure set or at least the few implements needed for the well-being of the nails, or should be, an exception. The number of well-kept hands isa growing each day. It is not a very hard task to give the shape and polish to the prettiest part of the hand, and it is still easier to keep them when attained, Oue is perfectly justified in saying the only excuse for bad-looking nail is laziness, even if it does sound harsh, and dry, or the world be the or it is effect too are of there be is, once Bits of Femininity. The special point in the new lingerie is its fit. Lace boleros bid fair to return their wide popularity. Jeweled and enamel buttons and buckles reign supreme, The old-fashioned “shot” taffeta is Gray wool muslin built over white taffeta is a late, fetching fashion, Sleeves are either finished long to the knuckles or else reach only to the elbow, telts must be either a very narrow band or a wide sash girdle to prove modish, The retu of the pompadonr waist with long points and front is hailed with delight, Ribbon and silk sa<hex are found to w a feature of the muslin frock, Rgaers wie There has come a return of the fan i of a ribbon. Most of the are with tucks fly at the Knee, Unlined lace sleeves will’ be seen everywhere ns soon as it is possible to lay wraps aside, Light toned cloths, trimmed with white, are going to be in the very fore front of smartness, It is the fashion now when buying a handkerchief bodice to purchase hat and parasol to match, Evening frocks are beautiful with rich embroidery of pearl and birds and Sowers in natural colors wash dresses which are allowed to skirts of MAKING STRAW HATS, « DIFFERENT PROCESSES THROUGH WHICH THE MATERIAL COES. A Finished Hat Made by Modern Factory Bath and the Hydraulic Press. Along no other line of industry has Baltimore attained such fame in the manufacture of straw goods, In the lines of cheaper goods New Eng- land is superior, but when it comes to the finer grades of straw hats, made in Baltimore are inferior to none, She has only six factories, but each of these has a capacity of nearly 100 doz en per day. The capital invested In the industry is over $2,000,000, and em ployment in fad is glven to over 1.500 hands, for the most part women and girls. The capital invest ed by jobbers and retailers much greater and a much larger number of persons find employment with them. A ture passes through a large number of hand Ton pre and [ire as those these tories is straw hat in process of manufac of wesses are involved, in each weral are en gaged work is essentially girls’ men having but little do. In the principle is also his small A fin modern factory joint labor of work, to the straw hat factories of the division of labor seen, individual hay but tusk made each ing Hnportant ont each article. ished hat, bry methods, represents the about 45 persons THE PLASTER first department SLO, The is as the plaster Patterns of the various sivies tory what Is known Foon. of hats are made from plaster paris by band, The who must skilled modelers, with bet ir workmen, shape the sizes as ik slow, hats of such shapes and fashion demands. The work each portion of the pattern having to be correctly shaped. this pat tern a mold is then made, The plaster Is caked arovud the pattern and press ed till each filled. Then moved a mold of the hat shape is at hand. Work Department No. 2, From crevice of in the pattern patiern of the desired when the 5 re on the hat proper begins i nm known as the braid Ing room which maxe gth and This abroad, principally from Ch Rows about from and this KIA Ww Japan straw bw braided in it | Of long strips na, no ng country is | as lu examined if there are This « Orien ivexd, wf said, in and is by expert exami any | JTS TO Nev weak or flaws in the straw is braided bv fal countri from 1 to fo their 8, the bral receiving secording i 11 will auntry | % » : Yi 3} * HINITY, owever! i acing i the straw so treated the When o id dark he sew braid and Vsdt a at . rut PER rans % ng of is on reels machines tl sewing These ma ma that the bralds mechan A Cl The recls hines § in motion, and brim are made n stitched together. ns passed through this es vary from regular sewing chines only in feally go round in ma revolve as the Are he crown sepa - rately and the When the hat t h went it has no size and but little deparin distinctive shape. WHERE STIFFENING IRAPPLIED In the third or ing” department the straw of the hat is rendered stiff by glue. Hnge iron pots of imported wr these the hats which have passed through the sewing room are plunged, that the surplus glue can drip. The glue is pecessary in order that the hat may be given shape, as loose, pliable straw would not retain form. When fhe hat has been dipped in gine, dripped and dried it goes to the block ing and pressing room, In the blocking and pressing zine molds and patterns are used. The hat, as yet without distinctive shape and size, is fitted over a zine “head” the size of which is known. The hat is blocked, or given shape, and is then pressed. While on the zine pattern heavy irons are ran over it, hardening the gine and pressiog the seams, Each pattern differs in size from the others, there being one for each size hat on the market. The pressing “sets” the hat at a distitet size. After the hats have been blocked and pressed they £0 to the hydraulic press, The hydraulic presses are In the fifth department, and the hats are brought room and pressing room, Rach press is for a different sized hat, The crown of the hat fits snugly in a cav- ity, leaving the brim resting on the flat surface around the miniature well Suspended from above is a rubber bag well filled with water. The bag is mechanically lowered and pressed, be. ing rubber and elastic, the bag con- forms to the interior of the hat, filling every crevice, Then the pressure beging, more water being forced futo the Dag. A heavy steel more water is foreed into it, For each thimblefuol of water forced into the bag the pressure is inercased 50 pounds, such jg the resistance of water to com: pression, This pressure is gradually increased until it reaches 250 pounds. When the hat is taken from the press, the straw, which heretofore has been rough and “shaggy.” is smooth, and the corners are distinet, Provious to entering the press the hats have bot an ildefined shape, the corners being round rather than at angles, The wa. ter pressure, however, affects every | inch of the straw touched, and so elr- cles are transformed into angles, FINISHING PROCESSES, The rough work on the hat finishes with the fifth department, the remain Ing departments being devoted to “fin ishing” In the sixth the “tips” or strips of silk or satin, which are seen on the interior of straw hats, are cut and printed. A separate die is used for each class of hats. The hats with the loose tips then pass to the next department, where the latter in the hats. The leather Processes, are sewed The sewing on all fine hats ig Invariably done by hand. A leather band, the proper length, 18 cut from a voll and gewed on the interior of the crown. In the cheaper grades stitching is by a but on the finer it hand, The bands are sewn on the erowns in way, bands are Imported in rolls, ii done lines machine, the the same All hat geamstress cuts off a strip of sufficient length and pios it around Then she st After the band | sewed practically fin ished, leather interior brim tie itehes it % hat However, the rough, awd the band has not in order to remedy hats pass again draulie has been on the in is the “tip is wr t sinooth appear thio ne ance, 3 { - ¢ 4 the through the hy whe fix the press; and n i removed neat with last devoted to packing and shipping nat pr i Work liye two departments smooth, appearance it ends the second rami the Press Sheridan's Birthplace. If the events of coming fame would cast a longer before, an ad miring people would keep more carefn shadow tined to be heroes, might An old New Hampshire man of a for generation, who may thought he saw fame coming his way wished to establish at least fact To this end he beggar a speech in his native town by saying “1 was born in Blanktown, I was al ways born in Blanktown, and 1 al ays meant to be born in Blanktown,' Among the of many battles and of wore than one reputed birth wns Philip Sheridan. Al New York, claims his son, amd wishes to erect In this way much Controversy be saved, one w heroes place Gen Dany n as an equestrian Historian up ti Sheridan for statue to him Niate Hastings ably backs claim hilo mr claims t And wssibie also town of Somers when mentioned as candidate tl len the Presi was born dan HOW BOERS PITCH THEIR LAAGERS. | An Earthquake. Yokohama and the neighboring To of Hills. A. C. Hales, the Australian corre spondent who was captured by the Boerg and released by President Steyn, writing from Burghersdorp, says: “Possibly it may interest Kuglish men ad women, too, for that matter, to know what a fighting lnager is like, and, as 1 have geen half a dozen them from the enemy's side of the wall, & rough pen sketch may not be amiss, In the under any cirenmstances lnager in the open are any kopjes about, secure he may fancy himself from at tack, no matter if there is not war times joer never hi there makes if No matter how » country foe a within fifty miles of him, the Boer commander always pitches his laager in a place of safety between two par allel of Irilks, an attack cannot be made upon him, either front Hines $0 that or rear, without giving him an im mense advantage over the gttacking force, even if the enemy is ten times By thi vs almost of Or ne £ Means make their impreguable, If they have they pie k with a covered loers lange 3 a choice ravi front a fis Barrow gully line and rocky wwlders and bushes in these placed le fi women have fol ons between WAR “The women are it is a noticeab rge numbers of vaked Even Scastors De IL A Iressed bearing and well gentleman, ndicated standing. wenith, a ref clung to strap in a When he ICtor ang ago. The ear was crowded was approached by the cond i ran b prow ket of his over fare the his is fingers in requested | little change His band sought his righ. trovnsery’ pocket, the left and those of his vest, at last, going throug! in every pocket A blank look of amazement over spread the gentleman's face, followed by a smile, in passengers near him joined, teally.” exclaimed ductor, smile had not yet ap- peared, “really. I am much em find to my chagrin that 1 money whatever upon me, not even a car ticket, 1 will have ask you to pass me on my face" “1 can’t do that,” answered the con. ductor. “1 don't know you. Could not, anyway.” “Can't you make an exception this time? 1 am Senator , and will certainly send the fare to the company immediately upon reaching the ecap- tol.” The conductor joined In the laugh, which by this tine had become gens eral, and walked to the front end of the car, A passenger handed the Sen. which the he to the eon. whose haven't any io cepled with paid his fare Evening Star, appropriate with it. thanks and Washington “Yes, judge.” aid the enlprit, “I ad. mit that 1 Kissed the lady without her consent, and, indeed, without her knowirtge that 1 was about to do so, ws * “What do you mean, sir?’ asked the “Your honor iifix doubtless heard that it ia the opinion of some eminent sclenticiz that dyspepsin may be cured by kissing.” . “Well?” “Well, your honor, I overheard the lady telling a friend that she had been suffering from dyspepsia very severe. Iy for two or tiiree days. Now, judge, what could a gallant gentleman do un. der such elrenmstances?” Ee She Was to Blame. Khe had called him a “perfect tease” “Bat you ses,” he retorted, with a smirk, “no t's are perfect until they are crossed, It's your faunit"-New York Commercial Advertiser. War, BEX but Hot 10 act 8s VIrAgoer, not themselves, nor to handle the rif nurse the the dying and to lay out the dead. | have heard singmg round 1 camp fires in the starlight, but it hymns that not ribald songs. 1 have seen them kneeling by the side of men in the moonlight, bot not In wantouness, but in and many 8 man who wears iritish uniform to-day can bear that 1 speak the tru “The foot scouts take up their posi i) wounded, to comfort them Lie WHS they sang, mercy, the me withess tions the rocks snd shrubs on of rifle teeth, Among ills In front Fach his pipe in bh i of the hills and rear the Inager scout has his in his hand, in his bandolier fu CATtiridges over his i scanty blanket i No i mi of He pay: for home, not for bh un and left 3 shoulder his mg at on 5 118 mim P g farsact ing for ® Do ik 104 HONOY Of » knows that on b all ® acute He wo may depend, kpows that hi ynrades and tle Baby's Curis Were Not Natural efi-dressed baby on nantown was fas ted by the face ina ng by's pretty and smil- ang parts by two gold en curls which bung down ber cheeks, After and s ¢ i413 4 IY a a while the child Decame nv . ¥ ¥ one O3 at from us began to ug ¥ oer woman-——presuymably her stopped ber, but a » she look was In f sits 1s d ont of the win No the child seized ROOBET her face turned ber bonnet t off. to wi It offered astonish than th resistance, but tl ee came with it, and the supposed golden haired baby showed that in reality ite head was without the semblance of a hair The child swung the bounet to and fro and laughingly held it up for the inspection of was almost man turned around. When she saw what the bay had done her face flushed, and without a werd she pick 1 up the child and walked sedately ont of the car. When last seen was trudging down Spring Garden street with the baby tucked under her arm lke a sack of oats, but still hold ing tightly to the bonnet and cooing my hair? Philadelphia a minute before the wo- she “Boe nooty Toy Limes ———————— Never Admit Defeat. Never admit defeat or though you seem to be down and have not a cent. Stoutly assert your divine right to be a man, to hold your head ap and look the world in the face; step bravely to the front whatever opposes, and the world will make way for you No one will insist upon your rights while you yourself doubt that you pos sone the qualities requisite for oa. Never allow yourself to be a traitor to your own cause by under mining your self-confidence, in demand as now, by. nerveless man has little show in the hustling werld of to-day. In the twentieth century a man push or be pushed, assert his rights and has the power to in the rear and apologizes for wing in the world, Negative virtues are of no use in winning one's way. It is the energy and push that forges to the front, --Succoss, flere are not less than twenty-five colonfes of Hebrews, most of them thriving and self. aupporting, in Judea, Samaria, Upper Galilee and in trans. Jordanie regions, with a total of 4.500 colonists and about 1000 hired He brew Iaborers, Many of the new gowns are made with two or three seta of undersiooves » as attachments to its elbow sleeves. shocks insignificant, Most of them now and then In 1801 described the expe a YOnr, but Mail the Japan He had just finished dressing when the first shock came, He crawled and all but #0 highly walk moment was impossible. The strung were into langhter at way in which as the garden the it io nerves, he burst i} he remarkable girl was moving down stepping high in alr, as see tryed Then, saw a great and sncient ten hie had day, leap into the ful ruin Looking ag: looking over his hie iple, which the previous air and fall in dread. shoulder, been admiring front be saw instant whole town before bh the swept of the sereaming, of in out cloud of dust gesticnlating, wildly ie crowd women and children, rushing and ithe thes knew not great de i De to af familiaz relations “erooked,” words Hn with then In material “Sweet” sarky ** “sour “roug caaracter, ey hrougt ns applied fo mean some thing to them gated them first Occasionally ti ney when th have Invest) 3 the senses transiate the new lsughable had bya them, and ith the blossom indow sill. meaning rashly, mistakes One morning cinth exami then compared them w bulbs: we ing hyacinths on Ww A brought in to us by a eli fat, round flower-bahy 1 had difficulty making the children see the differe but finally cutting the onion open | blinded their and let them smell first the flow bulb and then An hour or little girls petulant ad accidentally the day or two after onion , #8 another for us to plant ar 1 was id sone 1 iil nee, eyes the onion bulb two later one of er the the spoke in an irritated voles to neighbor, who hb her her blocks said knocked “1.00% Over i tittle ot 3 out the Little one an the or youll have aa ain pom Spare with a ter returned happen acquaintance, at work holidays ne sad ful a i 4314 asked the Jithneys atl the vi IEWer and Was there mt he The sweep said were twenty chimneys, and { was paid a shill ling apiece. The clergyman, after ment. looked at the astonishunent thinking a mo SWeeD in appara “You earned a great deal of nn in a little time.” he remarked solemnly, wondering probably, what the sooty fellow would net have f oy One y teply “Yea bag sald the sweep, throwing his his shoulder as he started who wear black coats get our money very easily.” over we Blowing Him Down. Dr. Barrow was an eminent at long sermons; three nothing to him. On one was preaching in the Abbey, and had well on ha “tenthly. my brethren” without any indication of the stream’s running dey Now the Abbey a showplace as well as a church; and the showmen became restive un Barrow. A« Isaac great were oceasion he hours 0 in ivi got is fo wit, the vergers der the eloquence of Dr + they “cansed the organs to until they had blowed him “Here again, you see, the or Whether the organist was asleep —-not unlikely, for organists pre. and one of the vergers officiated at the keys, 1 do not know, but I confess I should like to have heard the “volun fit name! --that “blowed” lzaac Barrow down.—Longman’s, Tall #Bike” Story. Somebody should make a collection They would certain The latest | have heard recounts how a wheelman was riding in the neighborhood of Worcester after dark when a brawny constable stopped him tiding without a light. Not a mo ment's pause elapsed before the ey. elisgt framed his excuse, “See that bi: cyeleY' he said, pointing on ahead to “Well. that machine is my better half: it i= part of this machine, yon under stand. 1 was riding tandem, when the parts became unglued; my wile pot knowing what had happened: when I recovered my senses ghe was out of shouting distanee® The constable war, it ls sald, sull gasping when the eyelist had got up to twelve miles an hour. London Sketeh, da - Nearly 20,000,000 false teeth are manufactured annually in the United States, the greater part coming from Philadelphia factories. About 40,000 ounces of gold are used with this og put, ; White opossums
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers