OUR PARIS LETTER, It is a long time since we have seen » fashion as pretty as that of the trains for evening gowns of ceremony. In. stead of the long, supported train, dragging like curtain at the back of the skirt without grace or harmony, the gown is now constructed in such a manner that it spreads at the foot like a wheel, just as wide as one may de- sire, but without a fold—in true bell shape. Of course this isa style not adapted to robes of gauze and tulle, but to the beautiful robes of silk it ives an added elegance, Nothing is tter to give increased heightand dig- nity to a woman, than onn of these gowns. In the play at the Odeon called “Amoureuse” Mile. Rejane wears a marvellous costume cut after this fashion. It is of rose o-lored satin or- namented with large applications of velvet arranged in bands and ont like feathers. The front of the skirt shows a straight tablier in plain satin, bor- dered by two bands of application. A smaller band is placed, siehtly on the bias, on each side and othersfollow this plan from the waist to the lower edge of the skirt in such a manner that the two bands meet exactly in the centre of the back. this combination gives to a woman, also what an added heig t. Many gowns sre simply out on the bias, a8 were our skirts formerly, with the bias seam in the centre of the brek, All the designs are not so clever as the one we have just described, for this is impossible with fabrics of narrow width. For these the only way possi- ble is to ent the breadths on the biss as formerly. All skirts show the ut- most simpliaaty. The trimmings con- sist of ruches, drapings of lace or silk muslin, We have seen a gown of bro- caded satin the stripesof which formed arches; the colors were rose and gray and the skirt was ornamented wit a drapery of rose and gray silk muslin, to give a relvage edge for the bottom. The bodice, closed in the centre, was draped in front by sort of fichu in aza- lia colored silk muslin which covered Lan LJ J vy Fl ET H No. 1074. ed. The No. 1075, leather with straps for holding a chair, Hat of gray straw trimmed with black velvet and gray and Llack wings, No. 1076, Maxrie or Cmnixa Cnere, —This elegant mantle for a yonng girl is of China crepe trimmed with gold emb: oidery, It is mounted on a yoke, with high collar and buttoned in the centre of the front, and falls in full pelerine shape in the back. Double revers embroidered with gold orna- ment the shoulders, furnishing a long tab in front which is held by a knot of the silk. The front of the mantle is caught up beneath this knot of silk. Hat of bronze straw trimmed with straw colored crepe and white wings, No. 1077. Brack Lace Maxrie,-— The charming model illustrated is made of black lace, trimmed with jt and gold lace. The pointed yoke and bodice are striped alternately with the gold lace and jet. High Medici collar fo. (80 with the same cotton as that used for embroidering the skirt and waist Ribbon sash knotted on the left side, i FANCY WORK. vide itself into two classes, according to the materials upon ich 1t is ex- eonted. These are and canvas and one will be greatly surprised at the variety which ean 3 de, by the different methods of treating the de- signs prepared for working, In linen embroideries, the aim and object of the worker appears to be to utilizeas many fancy stitches as possible, As a whole, the effect is good; but it is possible to carry this to extremes, and to give a confused look to the work instead of that rich, clear appearance so much desired. Many persons use colors in turn from sucly work to the tea cloths in one color. In these clotis the de- sign is taken over the linen 30 as to cover the cloth almost eutirely, and no ARAL RENE EW i ty of point-lace stitches imparts a light Incelike effect, to give force to the pat tern, which is outlined with white silk cord. There is nothing more attract ive than this for ornamentinfy the cor ners of tea cloths. The design is sells colored which is one of 1ts grest charms but colored silks may be used if de sired, Ivory work on Zulu cloth, of which we have spoken in a former arth cle, is very easy. Formerly it was done on congress canvas, but as se many ladies objected to the trouble of counting the threads of the foundation, the designs are now traced on cream Zulu cloth, so that all that is required is to work over the traced portions, This work is also adapted for toilet sets and table covers. There are very few fancy stitches used upon linen and similar fabrics that eannot, with care ful management, be adapted to single thread canvas, while at the same fins many simple stitches are quite as effec tive as those more elaborate, The method of finis! ing the edges of the canvas has always been a diflicnlty, a4 here ure but few kinds of work whick HEAD REST, 20. | peem to agree with the rather formal i style of the embroidery upon this ma- ‘terial. The trouble, however has been obviated by the introduction of a par. ticularly soft make of yellowish crochet | eotton, which almost exactly matches | the cream color of the canvas, Another branch of fancy work which finds much favor consists of knitted purses, vests, hose, wristlets, mitis and infants wear, made with the knitting and erochet silk prepared so carefully, | also the handsome laces that will wea forever and trim underwear and aprom so well, when knitted or crocheted with linen thread. One of the lates ideas carried out in crochet is the mak. which is slashed at the waist, and has a | gray cheviot trimmed with bands of ribbon belt drawn through the slits, | black braid. The plain skirt hes at finished with a long sash bow at the |the foot one broad snd two narrow middle. Long jacket fronts of lace al- | bands of braid. The bodice is made most cover the bodice fronts, and the { with back and side basques and is open high collar and small plastron are of | in front on a chemisette of fine striped the same lace. The full sleeves are linen, with collar of the same. Heovers striped with lace and have deep close | edge the open fronts of the bodice sud cuffs of lace. {form a flat collar in the back. Close : . _.. |sleeves trimmed at the wrists with Excursion Toruerres. — No. 1074. | braid and a row of butt >nson the outer The costume on the left is of plaided | opp seam, while the pelerine sleeves cream-colored and chestnut-brown wool | resching to the elbow are trimmed wit! | fillings are used. Athough every one | ing of small butterflies, and sprigs ao | ean work ontline stiteb, there are but raised flowers and leaves to be apple SAT No. 1079, 5 gu IN om #9 No. 1973. Frost view, the back. In front the fichu points extended to the waist line where they were held by a jeweled pin. The pret- sleeves were puffed at the top and close at the wrists. Three ruches trimmed the deep cuffs. The hat worn with this was very small and trimmed with a wreath of roses and a pair of | wings in the back. Many of these! ruches are used to border skirfs and | as headings to flousces. With a skirt of ecru tussor is used as garniture a flounce of English lace with very fine tracery and thick designs; at the top of the flounce a small ruche of white faille ribbon, and all the draw strings | of the same ribbon. A charming gown of tobacco colored erepon is trimmed in the sme style. The skirt is orns- mented with a draped flounce of Greek | fulle, of the same shade as the gown, and is surmounted by a little ruche of totacco colored patin, The cont of erepon, with long basque, is lined with deep straw colored brocade, while the long chemisette of Greek tulle is held « of the waist by a belt ornamented with oriental embroidery. The fronts of the coat are detached from the shonl- ders fall in revers at the wrists; orna- ornaments of large buttons. Completing this costume is a hat of tobacco rice straw, trimmed with a large ruch of dahlia velvet and an aigrette of roses in the back. As trimmings for the neck of gowns are worn pleating and collars of the sheerest linen cambrie, with embroidery, drawn work or lace. Linen collars are again seen and are al- ways worn with tailor gowne; plain linen bands with the points turned over, or the collar which flares slightly, are much favored. With these collars are worn a chemi- setto and a four-in-hand scarf of arepe de Chine. lanen cuffs are wide and fastened with linked buttons of gold or mlver. The most fashionable neckties are made of linen or pique and are and other devices pri but white is the most with chstelaine are worn but jowelod pins are preferred to brooches, kerchiefs printed all over in oolors have made thir appearance, but will never prove a success with people of refined ‘ No. 1078. dain i No- 1073. maca view cut on the bias. The trimming con- sists of three rows of narrow brown braid which surrounds the skirt and trimms the opening of the front. The back and side backs furnish ample ful- ness for theskirt, while the fronts open on a Flosting of brown velvet be round waisted bodice opens on the left side, the opening being concealed be- neath bias folds of the dress goods with a quilling of brown velvet through the centre. Straight collar of velvet open on the left side; high shouldered slegves, close at the wrists and fnished with cuffs of velvet. Belt of leather to i Bvmmenr Gowx axp Lace Tarusmsp | Jaoxwr,—No. 1078, is a gown of tan. colored drap d’ ete having the front of the skirt ornamented with embroidery, bodice draped and finished with an embroidered belt which covers the joining of the waist and skirt. Worn with it 1s a long sleeveless paletot, with a border of embroidery and flounces of black lace, No. 1079. Sraxmr Mastin. LU ray HEAL | ew poople who do it well or ean i guoceed in ke Spiny the intricate | of a pattern cle 3 persons, th simply of bael stiteh there are { or delicacy, nes | mellick embr onsists of ! worked, ul Ime of the beld down by hand. Those who well, and have th to give to it, are very fortanate for they can make their rooms attractive at comparatively lit- tle cost. Handsomely embroidered cushions will make the plainest of sofas and arm-chairs comfortable and even luxurious, for the cushions are so downy and so large that they tempt one to rest awhile, And surely no one will deny but that the daintily worked tea flavor. wEAD-nEST. 2a Tea cloths may be decorated in a variety of styles. A very handsome one has a large circle of drawn work placed toward one corner of the cloth; soross this is thrown a spray of ocon- ventional daisies, outlined and veined in blue and white flax threads, White linen cloths with Swiss worked borders and insertion are very popular; the ed y gued to the corners of teccloths and similar pieces of work. To carry thes coess'ully, it is essential that the be execuled ciosely ane f thread only Ena, yes wide by ference, and wm flat stitch embroidery i i ing & band rrow bor k is done is ceely twisted embroidery cot The bsnd shown in 2a. is worked along the middle; on either side is & row of stars shown in 2b. and then the narrow border shown in Ze; dc. is re peated again at the ends of the cover, This cover surrounds a roll pillow stuffed with hair; it is tied at the ends ' with a colored cotton cord with ball i Tea Crori—For this cloth take a squsre of thirty inches of cream white twilled lined. A scalloped bor- der is worked around the edge in open stitches which have a lace-like effect. The corners are ornamented with a de- sign of clover worked in straw-colored washing silk, with the blossoms veined in washable gold thread. The upper part of this a 1s repeated at the middle on each mde. The border ie outlined in chain st'teh, the heavier lines in plait stitch and the dots and cross stitches in with it 1s filled in are done in terra-cotta and straw-colored silks, with some gold thread. MS SL A Sins. MOTHERHOOD. BY MES. M. 8. PRATT. 1 hold within my arms today, Ae ait of mortal ela; foned, and so fair en gp LT soul with is AY Beare wie me A iu ried; I EAEOE oe ib tears 1 seo ey 0, precios Sue! ; BENE,
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