OUR PARIS LETTER.
There is nothing which has the effect
of killing a fashion so completely as to
have it beoome “common,” For this
reason, it would seem as if our passion
for shoulder capes, ought to be utterly
extinguistied; I r the numerous speci-
mens of wretched taste Ween on the
streets, and heaped up in the stores.
are surely enongh to disenchant every
woman who takes any pride in seeing
herself well costumed. Since the “Bon
Marche” has, so to speak, placed these
garments at the door of all the world
they have become very common, and as
a consequence, obsolete.
Jackets ornamented with embroidery
still remain in fashion, because their
price renders it unprofitable for firms
to put them on the market in large
quantities, and thus they do not come
into the possession of the lower classes,
Bome ot these jackets are extremely
elegant and merit deseription. One of
anemone velvet, was covered with an
application of amazon cloth of a lighter
ie This application was encircled
with poinis of jet, while here and there
ls of jet dotted the cloth. The
nts and back were entirely covered
with this embroidery; the sleeves were
of cloth, and simply ornamented at the
wrists with the same embroidery, An-
other, not quite so pretty, was of black
oloth embroidered with applications of
black velvet, studded with jet; a run-
ning design of jet pearls ornamented
the bottom. A band of velvet orna-
mented with the embroidery, and
edged with an arsbesqne oi jet, border-
ed the vest. A blue cloth has for trim-
mings, in the centre of the back and on
the fronts, a narrow design of gold and
black soutache. As we predicted ear-
lier in the season, gold in all shapes
and forms is lav shly used, and wll be
during the coming summer,
a
It is quite impossible to describe all
the new tlungs which are chutinually
appearing in the line of passementerie.
The latest are ornaments of fine cut
jet, including ‘ringed yokes, epaulettes
and Medici collars. Some of these are
made entirely of gold and precious
ston: 8; Lats are of fine gold lace, with
decorations of ametbysts and rubies
Galloons are of all sorts and siyles:
Arabian, Jayanese and [ersiap, and of
an originality and richness without
parallel. A new style of trimming,
called Russian galloon, is of blue or
pale pink gauze embroidered with gold
threads and beads; this is used on hats,
and as a trimming for summer silks
and gowns of crepe de Chine.
Among the favored materials or
gowns is a very pretty supple wool
called pantalon de cheval, because it
has all the appearance of the material
used by tailors for riding habits; then
come plaids with fine satin-like lines
forming almost invisible squares, ovals,
ete. Dresses with paniers, or having
nier effcels, me £ with but little
avor, as only those having exceedingly
slender forms can wear them with
gracefal effect.
Redingote shapes are universal, and
the latest styles are ornam nted with a
drapery of the cloth which descends
from the shoulders, to the edge of the
arment, forming a shell fold whieh is
ned with surah to match the color of
the goods. A single pleat descends
from the shoulders, snd the back edge
of the drapery fa'ls over the hip like
the tabs of a jackct; these tabs are or-
namented with buttons, The sleeves
are close, and finished with cuffs; the
collar Medici in sbape. This style of
garment is very popular as it is some-
thing quite new.
A reception gown of black surah has
the bottom of the skirt ent in dee
poiuts which are edged with dark
green velvet ribbon; this ribbon is not
sewed on like a binding but placed flat
upon the points and held by slight
stitches at the upper and lower points;
beneath these points appears a brown
embroidery mixed with threads of gold,
The bodice is a corselet of embroidery,
the top cut decollets in front and point-
ed in the back. Two scarfs of black
surah complete the bodice, spread, front
ani back, over a fichu of embroidery
which forms a Medici collar, Ap
trom of green velvet with high eollir of
the same, 18 worn within Mediei
collar, The sleeves are draped on the
Shonldge aud Baished 3 the wrist with
pont 8 of embroidery. The
tablicr of the skirt is ald a folds,
both front and back, over the basque
of a corselet. u
y or cream-white gloves embroid-
ered in black are the socepted colors
for street wear. For evening wear the
Jutest thing is silk gloves in delicate
tints to match the gowns; some of these
are embroidered colors but it is,
without
No. 997. Srtreerr Cosrome.—This
beautiful costume is composed of an e-
thyst cashmere with bands of applique
embroidery in velvet wrought in silk
for trimming. The skirt is plain in
front and ornamented with two straight
bands of embroidery; the back of the
skirt is laid in broad pleats. Tie
bodice is cut with pleated paniers. The
lining of the fronts close in the centre;
the outside material is pleated on the
right side at the neok, is crossed to the
left and fastened together with the
pleats of the right panier beneath a
metal clasp. Hat of Boe cream-colored
straw trimmed with folds of amethyst
faille and ostrich tips.
No. 998. Sommer Hars—CHAPRAU
Cara.—a. ''his charming capote is
made of old rose crepon and forms a
double pleating over the front. Clus-
ters of black ostrich tips and aigrettes
are placed on the crown; strings of
black velvet ribbon.
¢. The centre hat is of black tulle
dotted with gold; it 1s in turban shape,
the tulle draped around the brim and
forming small pleats in front. The
open crown is covered by large cluster
of primroses. Strings of black velvet.
b. The third model has a brim of
black straw with a crown of gold.
Black lace drapes the crown and forms
a sort of aigrette in front and back,
with which are mingled clusters of rich
violets. Strings of black velvet fast-
ened by a jeweled buckle,
No. 999. Simoxe Jacxer.—This ele-
gant jacket is made of drab cloth trin- |
med with embroidery of black soutache, |
It has a tailor back with basque forming |
a small tab in the centre of the back; the
fronts are open and adjusted by dart,
Large embroidered revers, forming a
collar in the back, edge the fronts and
extend to the bottom of the jacket. An
embroidered strap crosses the chest
and joins the fronts. Small Mediei
eollar of plain cloth, open in front.
High shouldered sleeves with embroid-
ery at the wrists, also embroidered
pocket laps on the hips,
No. 1000. Svvuer Wrars, —The body
of this wrap with its large pointed
sleeves is of black peau de soie; the
trimmings are pasmennenterie and rib-
bons, ‘The back of the garment is cut
with eurved seams and the fronts are
adjusted by darts; long pointed tabs
furnisted by the front, have the ful-
ness at the point of the waist concealed
by a knot of ribbon. Knots and loops
ol ribbon ornament the ends of the
tabs. The long pagoda bke sleeves
ontline on the back of tie wrap visite-
sleeves: Passementerie trims the bot-
tom of the sleeves and forms a small
point in the back, crosses the shoulders
and forms a deep point extending to
the fulness of the tabs in front. Knots
of ribbon are placed in the back at the
waist-line, on the shoulders, and at the
neck in front.
High collar of pleated lace and lin-
ing of light black silk.
No. 1001, The wrap at the rights
m de of black beugaline silk trimmed
with black lace and passementerie
forming cabochons, It 18 composed of
a visite back with visite sleeves form-
ing a long cape in the back in the shape
of tabs, and open on a front of bias
pleats beneath which extend long ends
closed in the centre. A deep fiounece
of lace borders the wrap and ends of
the fronts, passes under the tabs form-
ed by the sleeves, 1s pleated at the
bottom of the hood and arranged in
shell shape on the top of the front; a
-
flounee of nee is placed on the back of
the wrap to simulate a pointed nood,
this is bordered with ribbon which
forms knots on the shoulders and at
the waist-line in front and back. A
band of jet eabochons ornnments the
adge of tue wrap and the long tabs in
front. Medici collar covered with
pleated lace, Lining of black and old
gold silk.
No. 102, Wrar ror av Envrrny
Liapy, The msterial of this wrap is
camel's hair and the trimming 1s bands
of jet assementerie with silk and
chenille fringe. Fine gold and silver
threads run through the bands of jet
and the fringe. ‘Ihe shoulders are
moderately full and high and tue
Medici eollar is trimmed wiih jet passe-
menterie,
No. 1008. Srrixa Hats ror Lrrrie
Boys.—a. Hat of white, fancy straw,
the crown surrounded with a ribbon
embroidered with anchors and letters
in gold, and having long notched ends,
b. This hat is of white English straw
No. 1002,
with a white lettered ribbon sronnd the
crown terminating in a bow with short
ends on the left sude
¢. Bailor bat in fancy blue and white
straw trimmed wth blue ribbon em-
broidered with anchors
d. Bine fancy straw with wide blue
ribbon lettered in gold.
e. Hat of winte palm raw, the
brim faced = bine crepe ard bLloe
ribbon surroanding the crown and
knotted on the left side,
J. Dauphin hat in white English
straw; ribbon embroid red with flags,
surrounds the crown and is knotted on
the side,
@. Hat of white English straw, with
deep blue faille ribbon.
$1
iia
S———
ee
AAG. +
No. 1004
No. 10/4. Swarer Cosrrue, — This
model is of twoshades of Buede-oolored
wool combined with silk of a lighter
shade. It consists of a skirt and a
polonaise which is short on the front
and mdes and continuons to the foot of
the skirt at the back. The front of the
ski tis pleated on either side of the mid-
die in one deep pleat turned toward the
middle. On either side of this d
pleat is Inid a narrow one, edged wit
mp, forming a sort of rever. ‘The
ek of the bodice an | the skirt are cut
together; the «ides ot the bodice are
ont with basques, while the front is cut
double breasted, with revers, and opens
on a plastron of silk. The high collar
is of silk: the revers are faced with silk
and edeed with gimp, The sleeves are
full on the shoulders and ornamented
with gimp at the wrists. Trimmings
of buttons on the pulonsise and plas-
tron. Toque of fancy straw with knot
of green velvet in front.
“Fingers Fofore vorks."
Although the fork plays a more use-
jl and Souuyieugus b3) h's heals
than any clue, exco © sn
there are cortain edibles which we h the
fashion to cat with one's fingers. Here
is the latest list:
Siiven, $0 which a fork should never
be Srp) us, whether hot or cold, when
aa it should be,
a
w should be dipped in
Lettoos,
the deming ginal ule,
Celery, which
Fibte chet Dotids thi malineed
CRADLE 2ONG,
—
BY DOROTHY NELSOX,
The enn has long since sunk to ress
Behind the violet hills;
The golden hight fades from the west,
And the distant whip -poor-wills
Mournfu'ly sing their doleful strain,
And the brisk little trea-toad chirps again
Bieep, little one, sleep,
The clover hax folded {15 pals green leaves,
Like the hand= of a4 eh'ld in prayer;
The birds are twittering under the eaves,
An they hover thelr nestlings there;
Aud the ngot wind murmurs soft and low,
As Ib moves the tres-tops to and {1o.~
Sleep, little one, sleep,
The butterfly gay is quiet at Inst,
In the heart of a crimson rose ;
The murmuring brook, as it ripples past
The bapk where the columbitis grows,
Becius 10 6aY In a soft and dreamy tone,
As It goes on its busy way alone,
Bleep, little one, sleep.
The new moon sheds her slivery light
Over the dusky lands;
Aud one lone star, so large and bright,
A heavenly sentinel stands:
While the church bell sound. through quiet alr
Lis low-Lonnd call Lo evening prayer, —
Sleep, litle one, nies),
Mental and Physical Health,
cr sm—
BY EFFIE ERSKINE
“The child is father of the man”
said Wordsworth, and that is only one
of the many proverbs which go to show
that we are what we make ourselves, A
careful study of physiology reveals the
most astonishing proofs that, to a very
marked extent, we have in our own
keeping, not only our health and dispo-
sition, but even our looks,
The statesman, soldier or teacher has
firm, compress d lips; the student and
thinker a wrinkled brow; the philoso-
pher and skeptic a habitual sncer; and
80 we might go the round of all the fea-
tures.
Habit ani environment correct the
fauits of youth and make a wise man
of a simpleton, or rednee the average
person to an oituse mortal snd an ob-
ject of sympathy.
Of our he lth, there ean be no ques-
tion that it 1s to 8 great extent what we
choose {0 make it. Putting aside the
few persons who inherit incurable dis-
en-e—and they are much fewer in num-
ber than many imagine-—it is safe to as-
sert that every ailment can be traced to
imprudence or reckless exposure that
ecvuld have been avoided. It is quite
call bad weather, 1s respons ble for
much illness, and thst evervbo ly ean-
not pick and choose their climate; but
of had weather,
People thoug'ilessly take
and wet winds; make city visits in the
hot summer, when they i be In
cool country, and travel through the
mwmonntiains at Inoportuane
Then, there
ness, l1ke gotiing the feet
in cold draughts, over-eating
hea ing—to all of wi
ticularly prome. The
score aliments, mn
3 1
shoul
Fearons,
wet,
and Overs
sum total is
ich nnneces ary
of
i
under o
health,
{1
iv
e
Are ¢ven more
than our looks and
MIODE Appear 10 Ix
with: but, most sssured
keep strict rein on
Our
fne things to play
, if we do not
m,
ical,
and being intem-
strnction. Xs, phys
way 10 our 1 assions
porate therein, leads to ill-health.
truth of this statement,
Perhaps there is no feeling of the
mind, that in a girl, leads more cer-
tain'y to derangement of the
en, fanlt-finding or grum
ne uang,
in these faults at home, among those
and why not at bome?
Check this fanlt slwaye, and gnard
agunst the fretiul temper every hour.
Force it down and keep silence. Bite
y ur lips and burst your heart rather
than say a bad word or show a cross
fare,
Do you know that by looking cross
you exercise a certain group of muscles
of the arm grow from dumb -bell exer-
cise, 80 that in time you beget a face
that, instead of being beautiful, is re-
pellant?
Try the opp site course. Do not
talk at ail if you cannot talk pleasantly;
and 80, by curbing this particular pas-
sion, you will engender good nature in
your soul and grow up beautiful and
beloved of all
Bad temper begets nervonsness, and
nervonsness is the parent of that terri.
ble complaint, hysteria. Indeed, there
is po ad habit, mental or phvsical,
that, if not cheeked in time, will not
involve mental snd bodily ruin.
But we cannot all be prudcnt or ex-
erowe sell-comma d. So some girls
will be ill; and, in snch cases, some
words of advice will not be out of place:
When ill of any chronic compl int
the first s'ep toward rocovery is to
keep your mind from dwelling on yonr
sufferings, Yom must try to imagine
yourself pgetling better. The medical
profession 1s agreed that the confident
expectation of a cure ‘s the most potent
means of Lrinving it about,
1t is hard, perhaps, to imagine your.
se I getting well when you positively
feel ill and in pain; bat if yon employ
your mind on something that wi | draw
yonr thoughts away from yourself, you
will find that the task is easy. Cheer-
ful companionship will greatly he'p
Jo0 and the qu «4 chat of an agreeable
riend in a well-ventilated room will do
a world of good.
A word abont sleeplessness
which so many invalids sniffer,
to reading a not too exciting boo.
Never sng in the evening at all if yon
sre a light sleeper. The exertion loads
the eapillaries of the brain, and, as
they sre weak, they do not Sompletely
empty the. selves again; \
long afier you lie down, you keep
Shihiing until sleep flies from your
Beware of Sleeping ot soothing
dranghts of any ki Lest narcot-
variably creates scidity on a weak
cloth
A New York denlor advertises that
bo will pay ons for old teeth. |
A
somal, and hua alambver in olfoctually
HORSE NOTES.
~This is Frank f.. Herdic’s nine
teenth year as a pool seller,
~Maund 8B. will be bred to Ansel the
latter part of this month,
~—Seott Quinton has arrived at Bek
mont Course with twelve horses.
— Joshua Evans 1s driving Belle of
York (1ecord 2.544) on the road.
—John E. ‘Turper took his string of
trotiers to Belmont Course recently.
~Sam Bryant and Jim Murphy leave
Lou'sviile on May 5 for the Brooklyn
track, :
— Jockey Britton will be married on
May 5 tc Miss “p.ller, a colored belle of
Lexingion’
~The Trotting Upion of Great
Britain bas issued the second volume of
its Racing Calendar.
~The Kentucky Derby will be run in
about two weeks. There will probably
be about ten starters,
~—A. E. Terry's two double teams of
American trott-rs were awarded prizes
al the Faris hose show.
~ Grace Medium, M. C. Harvey's
black mare which was badly burned at
the Belmont fire, will recover.
~Recently at Lexirgton, Ky., the
thoroughbred mare Wildfire foaled
cuestuut filly, by Hylas, 2.244.
—'I'he Board of Control has simplified
the rule relating to racing partuerships,
and promises a strict enforcement.
~The Messrs, 8, A Browne & Oo,
have sent the bay mare Eminence, 2.18%,
to Waterville, Mz, to be Lred to Nek
son, 2.10%.
—The Board of Appeals of the Amer.
ican Trotting Association will meet at
the Auditorium Hotel, Chicago, en
Tuesday May 5.
~The new racing organization forme
ed at Ch cago, 1ii., by Mr. E, Corsi an,
will be known as the Chicago racing
Association.
— It is stated that the New Hampshire
Golden,
~The President of the new'y organ
ized MHalumore Jockey Club is Clarence
’
Mclutyre,
—Jimmis McLanghlin rode his maid-
—The noted Australian racehorse
Melos has br down, He ran t ird
to Bravo aud Carbive for the Melbourne
Cup in 1550
The :
ker
o}
Lie
black trotter David LL.
G4 1 five other t orses of
we 8 ana
The Amer can trotter Captain George
wien 41 of 1 mile 1§ furlongs tosad-
fA" en
“
The consignment of American bred
England by Mr. Easton
arrived s«fely on the unic alter rather
an extra long pasa
s
0
ge,
™»
~— Material improvements are being
made at ih- Louisville track, lucluding
the construction of a new belling
inclosure and saudling paddock,
—F, G. Babeock, of the Dabcock
Farms, of Horpelisville, N, Y.,
has decided to send to John ¥ lin the
it Voodoo, by Stamboul, dam Eva,
g 991
de
— Ama ia, the property of 1. J. Rove,
died at El Paso, Tixis, recently
Californie to the
I
- Soggan Dros, were the largest
wirners at the M. mplis meeting, the
stable having earned $1175. J. M,
Brown & Co. were second, with $2400
to their credit,
—The latest action of the Board of
Contr 1 is to tax both trainers and jocks
eys $10 before they receive their liens
ses, The original idea was to charge
woth'ng.
~The Po'nt Dreeze and Demons
tracks are now in sp'endid coudition
for working horses, and by Lhe Lime the
meetings commence they will both be
fast,
—K. K. Alcock, formerly wi'h George
1, Loril'ard, the Dwser Droihers and
whe Auburndale Stable, is now ia
charge of Wi liam Easteru’s string of
2-year-olds at Mortis Park.
~The crack 3-vear<wld colt Garcon,
belonging toh Baddoré M nor stable,
was lired lust week and turned out tor
the senson, He wili not te trated
«gain before next year.
The stakes of the National Associa
tion of Trotting Hor e-dreeders did
not fil very wel, and will be reopened,
The tik of revrganizilion created a
feeling of uncertainly among horse
OWhDers,
-The Long Is'and Trotting Awsociae
tion has teen organ zd with a track
located at Roe yi le Centre, The officers
are, resident, Jawes I. Niemann;
Vice Tiesident, 1, 11, Ih Deaton, M. D.;
Treasurer, Austin Cornwel ; Secretary,
E. ti, Payn ; Clerk of Course, Jacob
Brouwer.
- At Springfield, Ill, on April 28,
corporation license was fs<ued to the
American Trotting Reglsier Associa
thon. 1 he incorperators are Fink 8
Gorton Famuel Baker and F. 8S. Wale
ers, The capital stock is $150.00.
~They are building new stables at
the Lat ma track, and this with the
other imptovemen's will make the
place singularly attractive for the aver
ate vistors, T.e new belting inclos
gre will rank with auyth ng of the kind
East or West,