OUR PARIS LETTER. There is nothing which has the effect of killing a fashion so completely as to have it beoome “common,” For this reason, it would seem as if our passion for shoulder capes, ought to be utterly extinguistied; I r the numerous speci- mens of wretched taste Ween on the streets, and heaped up in the stores. are surely enongh to disenchant every woman who takes any pride in seeing herself well costumed. Since the “Bon Marche” has, so to speak, placed these garments at the door of all the world they have become very common, and as a consequence, obsolete. Jackets ornamented with embroidery still remain in fashion, because their price renders it unprofitable for firms to put them on the market in large quantities, and thus they do not come into the possession of the lower classes, Bome ot these jackets are extremely elegant and merit deseription. One of anemone velvet, was covered with an application of amazon cloth of a lighter ie This application was encircled with poinis of jet, while here and there ls of jet dotted the cloth. The nts and back were entirely covered with this embroidery; the sleeves were of cloth, and simply ornamented at the wrists with the same embroidery, An- other, not quite so pretty, was of black oloth embroidered with applications of black velvet, studded with jet; a run- ning design of jet pearls ornamented the bottom. A band of velvet orna- mented with the embroidery, and edged with an arsbesqne oi jet, border- ed the vest. A blue cloth has for trim- mings, in the centre of the back and on the fronts, a narrow design of gold and black soutache. As we predicted ear- lier in the season, gold in all shapes and forms is lav shly used, and wll be during the coming summer, a It is quite impossible to describe all the new tlungs which are chutinually appearing in the line of passementerie. The latest are ornaments of fine cut jet, including ‘ringed yokes, epaulettes and Medici collars. Some of these are made entirely of gold and precious ston: 8; Lats are of fine gold lace, with decorations of ametbysts and rubies Galloons are of all sorts and siyles: Arabian, Jayanese and [ersiap, and of an originality and richness without parallel. A new style of trimming, called Russian galloon, is of blue or pale pink gauze embroidered with gold threads and beads; this is used on hats, and as a trimming for summer silks and gowns of crepe de Chine. Among the favored materials or gowns is a very pretty supple wool called pantalon de cheval, because it has all the appearance of the material used by tailors for riding habits; then come plaids with fine satin-like lines forming almost invisible squares, ovals, ete. Dresses with paniers, or having nier effcels, me £ with but little avor, as only those having exceedingly slender forms can wear them with gracefal effect. Redingote shapes are universal, and the latest styles are ornam nted with a drapery of the cloth which descends from the shoulders, to the edge of the arment, forming a shell fold whieh is ned with surah to match the color of the goods. A single pleat descends from the shoulders, snd the back edge of the drapery fa'ls over the hip like the tabs of a jackct; these tabs are or- namented with buttons, The sleeves are close, and finished with cuffs; the collar Medici in sbape. This style of garment is very popular as it is some- thing quite new. A reception gown of black surah has the bottom of the skirt ent in dee poiuts which are edged with dark green velvet ribbon; this ribbon is not sewed on like a binding but placed flat upon the points and held by slight stitches at the upper and lower points; beneath these points appears a brown embroidery mixed with threads of gold, The bodice is a corselet of embroidery, the top cut decollets in front and point- ed in the back. Two scarfs of black surah complete the bodice, spread, front ani back, over a fichu of embroidery which forms a Medici collar, Ap trom of green velvet with high eollir of the same, 18 worn within Mediei collar, The sleeves are draped on the Shonldge aud Baished 3 the wrist with pont 8 of embroidery. The tablicr of the skirt is ald a folds, both front and back, over the basque of a corselet. u y or cream-white gloves embroid- ered in black are the socepted colors for street wear. For evening wear the Jutest thing is silk gloves in delicate tints to match the gowns; some of these are embroidered colors but it is, without No. 997. Srtreerr Cosrome.—This beautiful costume is composed of an e- thyst cashmere with bands of applique embroidery in velvet wrought in silk for trimming. The skirt is plain in front and ornamented with two straight bands of embroidery; the back of the skirt is laid in broad pleats. Tie bodice is cut with pleated paniers. The lining of the fronts close in the centre; the outside material is pleated on the right side at the neok, is crossed to the left and fastened together with the pleats of the right panier beneath a metal clasp. Hat of Boe cream-colored straw trimmed with folds of amethyst faille and ostrich tips. No. 998. Sommer Hars—CHAPRAU Cara.—a. ''his charming capote is made of old rose crepon and forms a double pleating over the front. Clus- ters of black ostrich tips and aigrettes are placed on the crown; strings of black velvet ribbon. ¢. The centre hat is of black tulle dotted with gold; it 1s in turban shape, the tulle draped around the brim and forming small pleats in front. The open crown is covered by large cluster of primroses. Strings of black velvet. b. The third model has a brim of black straw with a crown of gold. Black lace drapes the crown and forms a sort of aigrette in front and back, with which are mingled clusters of rich violets. Strings of black velvet fast- ened by a jeweled buckle, No. 999. Simoxe Jacxer.—This ele- gant jacket is made of drab cloth trin- | med with embroidery of black soutache, | It has a tailor back with basque forming | a small tab in the centre of the back; the fronts are open and adjusted by dart, Large embroidered revers, forming a collar in the back, edge the fronts and extend to the bottom of the jacket. An embroidered strap crosses the chest and joins the fronts. Small Mediei eollar of plain cloth, open in front. High shouldered sleeves with embroid- ery at the wrists, also embroidered pocket laps on the hips, No. 1000. Svvuer Wrars, —The body of this wrap with its large pointed sleeves is of black peau de soie; the trimmings are pasmennenterie and rib- bons, ‘The back of the garment is cut with eurved seams and the fronts are adjusted by darts; long pointed tabs furnisted by the front, have the ful- ness at the point of the waist concealed by a knot of ribbon. Knots and loops ol ribbon ornament the ends of the tabs. The long pagoda bke sleeves ontline on the back of tie wrap visite- sleeves: Passementerie trims the bot- tom of the sleeves and forms a small point in the back, crosses the shoulders and forms a deep point extending to the fulness of the tabs in front. Knots of ribbon are placed in the back at the waist-line, on the shoulders, and at the neck in front. High collar of pleated lace and lin- ing of light black silk. No. 1001, The wrap at the rights m de of black beugaline silk trimmed with black lace and passementerie forming cabochons, It 18 composed of a visite back with visite sleeves form- ing a long cape in the back in the shape of tabs, and open on a front of bias pleats beneath which extend long ends closed in the centre. A deep fiounece of lace borders the wrap and ends of the fronts, passes under the tabs form- ed by the sleeves, 1s pleated at the bottom of the hood and arranged in shell shape on the top of the front; a - flounee of nee is placed on the back of the wrap to simulate a pointed nood, this is bordered with ribbon which forms knots on the shoulders and at the waist-line in front and back. A band of jet eabochons ornnments the adge of tue wrap and the long tabs in front. Medici collar covered with pleated lace, Lining of black and old gold silk. No. 102, Wrar ror av Envrrny Liapy, The msterial of this wrap is camel's hair and the trimming 1s bands of jet assementerie with silk and chenille fringe. Fine gold and silver threads run through the bands of jet and the fringe. ‘Ihe shoulders are moderately full and high and tue Medici eollar is trimmed wiih jet passe- menterie, No. 1008. Srrixa Hats ror Lrrrie Boys.—a. Hat of white, fancy straw, the crown surrounded with a ribbon embroidered with anchors and letters in gold, and having long notched ends, b. This hat is of white English straw No. 1002, with a white lettered ribbon sronnd the crown terminating in a bow with short ends on the left sude ¢. Bailor bat in fancy blue and white straw trimmed wth blue ribbon em- broidered with anchors d. Bine fancy straw with wide blue ribbon lettered in gold. e. Hat of winte palm raw, the brim faced = bine crepe ard bLloe ribbon surroanding the crown and knotted on the left side, J. Dauphin hat in white English straw; ribbon embroid red with flags, surrounds the crown and is knotted on the side, @. Hat of white English straw, with deep blue faille ribbon. $1 iia S——— ee AAG. + No. 1004 No. 10/4. Swarer Cosrrue, — This model is of twoshades of Buede-oolored wool combined with silk of a lighter shade. It consists of a skirt and a polonaise which is short on the front and mdes and continuons to the foot of the skirt at the back. The front of the ski tis pleated on either side of the mid- die in one deep pleat turned toward the middle. On either side of this d pleat is Inid a narrow one, edged wit mp, forming a sort of rever. ‘The ek of the bodice an | the skirt are cut together; the «ides ot the bodice are ont with basques, while the front is cut double breasted, with revers, and opens on a plastron of silk. The high collar is of silk: the revers are faced with silk and edeed with gimp, The sleeves are full on the shoulders and ornamented with gimp at the wrists. Trimmings of buttons on the pulonsise and plas- tron. Toque of fancy straw with knot of green velvet in front. “Fingers Fofore vorks." Although the fork plays a more use- jl and Souuyieugus b3) h's heals than any clue, exco © sn there are cortain edibles which we h the fashion to cat with one's fingers. Here is the latest list: Siiven, $0 which a fork should never be Srp) us, whether hot or cold, when aa it should be, a w should be dipped in Lettoos, the deming ginal ule, Celery, which Fibte chet Dotids thi malineed CRADLE 2ONG, — BY DOROTHY NELSOX, The enn has long since sunk to ress Behind the violet hills; The golden hight fades from the west, And the distant whip -poor-wills Mournfu'ly sing their doleful strain, And the brisk little trea-toad chirps again Bieep, little one, sleep, The clover hax folded {15 pals green leaves, Like the hand= of a4 eh'ld in prayer; The birds are twittering under the eaves, An they hover thelr nestlings there; Aud the ngot wind murmurs soft and low, As Ib moves the tres-tops to and {1o.~ Sleep, little one, sleep, The butterfly gay is quiet at Inst, In the heart of a crimson rose ; The murmuring brook, as it ripples past The bapk where the columbitis grows, Becius 10 6aY In a soft and dreamy tone, As It goes on its busy way alone, Bleep, little one, sleep. The new moon sheds her slivery light Over the dusky lands; Aud one lone star, so large and bright, A heavenly sentinel stands: While the church bell sound. through quiet alr Lis low-Lonnd call Lo evening prayer, — Sleep, litle one, nies), Mental and Physical Health, cr sm— BY EFFIE ERSKINE “The child is father of the man” said Wordsworth, and that is only one of the many proverbs which go to show that we are what we make ourselves, A careful study of physiology reveals the most astonishing proofs that, to a very marked extent, we have in our own keeping, not only our health and dispo- sition, but even our looks, The statesman, soldier or teacher has firm, compress d lips; the student and thinker a wrinkled brow; the philoso- pher and skeptic a habitual sncer; and 80 we might go the round of all the fea- tures. Habit ani environment correct the fauits of youth and make a wise man of a simpleton, or rednee the average person to an oituse mortal snd an ob- ject of sympathy. Of our he lth, there ean be no ques- tion that it 1s to 8 great extent what we choose {0 make it. Putting aside the few persons who inherit incurable dis- en-e—and they are much fewer in num- ber than many imagine-—it is safe to as- sert that every ailment can be traced to imprudence or reckless exposure that ecvuld have been avoided. It is quite call bad weather, 1s respons ble for much illness, and thst evervbo ly ean- not pick and choose their climate; but of had weather, People thoug'ilessly take and wet winds; make city visits in the hot summer, when they i be In cool country, and travel through the mwmonntiains at Inoportuane Then, there ness, l1ke gotiing the feet in cold draughts, over-eating hea ing—to all of wi ticularly prome. The score aliments, mn 3 1 shoul Fearons, wet, and Overs sum total is ich nnneces ary of i under o health, {1 iv e Are ¢ven more than our looks and MIODE Appear 10 Ix with: but, most sssured keep strict rein on Our fne things to play , if we do not m, ical, and being intem- strnction. Xs, phys way 10 our 1 assions porate therein, leads to ill-health. truth of this statement, Perhaps there is no feeling of the mind, that in a girl, leads more cer- tain'y to derangement of the en, fanlt-finding or grum ne uang, in these faults at home, among those and why not at bome? Check this fanlt slwaye, and gnard agunst the fretiul temper every hour. Force it down and keep silence. Bite y ur lips and burst your heart rather than say a bad word or show a cross fare, Do you know that by looking cross you exercise a certain group of muscles of the arm grow from dumb -bell exer- cise, 80 that in time you beget a face that, instead of being beautiful, is re- pellant? Try the opp site course. Do not talk at ail if you cannot talk pleasantly; and 80, by curbing this particular pas- sion, you will engender good nature in your soul and grow up beautiful and beloved of all Bad temper begets nervonsness, and nervonsness is the parent of that terri. ble complaint, hysteria. Indeed, there is po ad habit, mental or phvsical, that, if not cheeked in time, will not involve mental snd bodily ruin. But we cannot all be prudcnt or ex- erowe sell-comma d. So some girls will be ill; and, in snch cases, some words of advice will not be out of place: When ill of any chronic compl int the first s'ep toward rocovery is to keep your mind from dwelling on yonr sufferings, Yom must try to imagine yourself pgetling better. The medical profession 1s agreed that the confident expectation of a cure ‘s the most potent means of Lrinving it about, 1t is hard, perhaps, to imagine your. se I getting well when you positively feel ill and in pain; bat if yon employ your mind on something that wi | draw yonr thoughts away from yourself, you will find that the task is easy. Cheer- ful companionship will greatly he'p Jo0 and the qu «4 chat of an agreeable riend in a well-ventilated room will do a world of good. A word abont sleeplessness which so many invalids sniffer, to reading a not too exciting boo. Never sng in the evening at all if yon sre a light sleeper. The exertion loads the eapillaries of the brain, and, as they sre weak, they do not Sompletely empty the. selves again; \ long afier you lie down, you keep Shihiing until sleep flies from your Beware of Sleeping ot soothing dranghts of any ki Lest narcot- variably creates scidity on a weak cloth A New York denlor advertises that bo will pay ons for old teeth. | A somal, and hua alambver in olfoctually HORSE NOTES. ~This is Frank f.. Herdic’s nine teenth year as a pool seller, ~Maund 8B. will be bred to Ansel the latter part of this month, ~—Seott Quinton has arrived at Bek mont Course with twelve horses. — Joshua Evans 1s driving Belle of York (1ecord 2.544) on the road. —John E. ‘Turper took his string of trotiers to Belmont Course recently. ~Sam Bryant and Jim Murphy leave Lou'sviile on May 5 for the Brooklyn track, : — Jockey Britton will be married on May 5 tc Miss “p.ller, a colored belle of Lexingion’ ~The Trotting Upion of Great Britain bas issued the second volume of its Racing Calendar. ~The Kentucky Derby will be run in about two weeks. There will probably be about ten starters, ~—A. E. Terry's two double teams of American trott-rs were awarded prizes al the Faris hose show. ~ Grace Medium, M. C. Harvey's black mare which was badly burned at the Belmont fire, will recover. ~Recently at Lexirgton, Ky., the thoroughbred mare Wildfire foaled cuestuut filly, by Hylas, 2.244. —'I'he Board of Control has simplified the rule relating to racing partuerships, and promises a strict enforcement. ~The Messrs, 8, A Browne & Oo, have sent the bay mare Eminence, 2.18%, to Waterville, Mz, to be Lred to Nek son, 2.10%. —The Board of Appeals of the Amer. ican Trotting Association will meet at the Auditorium Hotel, Chicago, en Tuesday May 5. ~The new racing organization forme ed at Ch cago, 1ii., by Mr. E, Corsi an, will be known as the Chicago racing Association. — It is stated that the New Hampshire Golden, ~The President of the new'y organ ized MHalumore Jockey Club is Clarence ’ Mclutyre, —Jimmis McLanghlin rode his maid- —The noted Australian racehorse Melos has br down, He ran t ird to Bravo aud Carbive for the Melbourne Cup in 1550 The : ker o} Lie black trotter David LL. G4 1 five other t orses of we 8 ana The Amer can trotter Captain George wien 41 of 1 mile 1§ furlongs tosad- fA" en “ The consignment of American bred England by Mr. Easton arrived s«fely on the unic alter rather an extra long pasa s 0 ge, ™» ~— Material improvements are being made at ih- Louisville track, lucluding the construction of a new belling inclosure and saudling paddock, —F, G. Babeock, of the Dabcock Farms, of Horpelisville, N, Y., has decided to send to John ¥ lin the it Voodoo, by Stamboul, dam Eva, g 991 de — Ama ia, the property of 1. J. Rove, died at El Paso, Tixis, recently Californie to the I - Soggan Dros, were the largest wirners at the M. mplis meeting, the stable having earned $1175. J. M, Brown & Co. were second, with $2400 to their credit, —The latest action of the Board of Contr 1 is to tax both trainers and jocks eys $10 before they receive their liens ses, The original idea was to charge woth'ng. ~The Po'nt Dreeze and Demons tracks are now in sp'endid coudition for working horses, and by Lhe Lime the meetings commence they will both be fast, —K. K. Alcock, formerly wi'h George 1, Loril'ard, the Dwser Droihers and whe Auburndale Stable, is now ia charge of Wi liam Easteru’s string of 2-year-olds at Mortis Park. ~The crack 3-vear