CURRENT FASHIONS Why cannot every woms remembe: that it is one thing to dress for the house, and an entirely diflerent thing to dress for the street. No one indie. tion shows more conclusively a woman’ refinement, or lack of it, than th toilette in which she appeais on the street. Women of means and presum ably good taste sre sometimes irresist ably attracted by gay colors and showy mate: ials, and the result is a direct violation of all j rinciples of guod taste, No women should forget that safety in the gnestion of dress, as in o'her mat- ters, lies in “a middle course,” and that it is best to follow the fashion afar off, making only such modifications as are lest suited for one’s own need, The present fashion is to be plainly dressed on the street, a most sensible fashion and one that has always been followed by ladies of refinement. B reet dresses for spring wear are of wool cloth, well made, with plain skir 8; worn with these sre fur or cloth capes, or the half long jacket. The display of spring dress goods, shown by our leading 1. erchants for the past month, has been simply bewildering. The texture of the goods, the desigus and the colors are marvelous; never in all the history of this art has such a height of perfection been attained as mn the present season. To pass through the silk department of one of tuese es- tablishments is like walking through a garden brillant with the tints of a | the corgeous and at the same time most delicate of flowers. Surely, no woman of d scernment could fail, with such a stock to select from, of dressing herself suitably, be it for the str. et, the church, the house or the ball room. In one-color material, nothing is more admired than the Bedford cord; a beautiful, light-weight, repped cloth which comes in all colors, fawn, almond brown, dark brown, pearl] silver, gray, rose and o'd blue. This | cloth is ured for long traveling cloaks, lined with taffeta, and also for stylish gowns. Many Easter brides will sp- pear in traveling wraps of this fine, | rich wool fabrie, while the choice | shades of fawn, tan or gray will be seen | in street or house costumes, Nothing is more stylish than these goods if they | are of a good quality. An Ea-ter « os- | fume prepared by one of our best houses is of a delicate tan shade of ths | material. The false skirt is faced with velvet of a darker shade, and tue dress skirt is cut on the bottom edge in square tabs; every other tab being r - | moved and its plsce filled in with | knotted fringe of the same color as the | dress, which allows the ve vet of the! under skirt to be :een through its| meshes. The apron front, slightly | draped on the hips, is studded with | tiny steel nail heads, The jacket- bodice, flaring collar, m Henry IL style, and high sleeves are edged with black ostr ch tips, while the sleeves and | eollars are stud.ed with steel nails to | matel the apron front. Of the many | Easter costumes displayed, at ths es- | tabl:'sbment, this one surpassed ali in its beauty and style. Less expensive | spring gowns are made of light tweed | aud cheviot in brown and gray shades, with indistinct cross bars and checks, Gray is the leading color, no matter | what the shade may be if it is ovly | gray. These garmentsare usually made | fini hed with stitching. The sleeves are made on the bias, full at the top and tapered to the wrist, when they are closed by two buttors and bution- holes. The wrist is finished Ly several rows of stitching, and two or thiee | rows placed higher up outline a cuff, | The tkirt may be cut on the biss or | siraight; the front hangs stiaight, not | clinging, and the hem is ornsmented | by rows of stitching. | Homespuns and French woolens are | made more dressy by the addition of | silk or brocade for the collar, cuffs, | revers and pocket laps. | Some very hendsome new woolen | are in robes or patterns, wich a stp of a yard and a mY of embroidery and appliqued | and of contrasting material fo trim the bodice and the skirt. Clotis in solid color figured with her- ringbone or chevron stripes will be | very popular as the sewon advaoces, | All sorts of dainty cotton fabrics for summer weir are already shown. Among these the ginghams take a! promivent place. The Scotch or Zephyr weaves are extremely fine, showing many new devices. The fnost notable features are large piads of most deli- | eate coloring, and groups of variegated | fine stripes with wide, white sateen stripes. More beaatiful, if possible, are the batistes, ciambrays, percales snd India manlls, while the new black grenadines dotted with small colored | designs, of all descriptions, are truly visrous of loveliness, The chosen sprin wraps are coat kets ad eapes renching 10 the hips, tis dombtiul, however, if the coat jackets are enerally worn as their Wain point consists in a perfect fit, thus requiring the services of a first class dressmaker. The latest styles are double breasted. Half length §ickets, either close or loose fitting, with em- broidery of sontache and reefer jackets | of “scouring cloth,” navy bine or black will be worn. The most stylish cloth eapes come just to the hips wih or without full sboulders, and finished with a Medici collar or a pleated rue. e. The yokes of the cape: are ornamented with passementerie aud the fullness of the cape is massed in thick gathers on the yoke; the lining may be plain or fancy vilk. The edges are out smooth, hemmed or edged with na sgmenterio or a cord. For young gi ls capes are eut short, with one sce longer than | the other and desped over the shonlder where it is fastened with a jeweled pin, Jha leaving the front to hang long aad ull, Bpring millinery seems hardly in keept g with cod March winds, but Easter 1s here and what is Easter with- ont the traditional Easter hat? Most of the spring shapes shown are nm lar to those now worn, and another seasun of the populir low 18 As sured. ‘The crowns rest flat on the hend or are supported by a band set under the brim of the hat and which fits close t the head; this band in cov. ered with a roll of velvet, ribbm or Ince, sometimes ornamgnted with | owers and again with joweld designs The large hats are plateanx of chip or straw brsad, pliable as those of felt and are fashioned into shape by the milliner's The light shades of gray, blue, and the new brownish yellow, called Cleo- patra, are the dominant colors. Maize color is freely used in combination wito black. FEbpglish walkiug hats with Lace toques gold em- lets, orocuses, or roses, in the back and front, closely pressed togetuer. Black hats still remair fashionable because they can be worn with almost any cos- tume. No. 849, No. #49. Dnrss ror Frasr Common. ton. —This first communion dress for a yonng girl is of white veiling with white moire ribbon two inches and a The plain skirt is trimmed with three bands of finishes them at the wrist. A mull cup and veil accompany the dre-s No. 950, Seamvo Care,—This half long cape for a young girl is made of green cloth dotted with large cabock- black jet. The shoulders are formed by seams surmounted by a puff- ing of the cloth. The lower edge of the cape is finished with a narrow Bead of feathers. High, rolling collar in cloth. Toque of light green silk erepon with brim of velvet of a darker shade. The $rmwming of erepon in front forms rabbit's ears, in the back simple puffs LJ L) MAN CR Wh 0 A J L] [ CY 0) seb LK (3 FUR A x) (3) [XK] We A) No. 952, No. 951. charming and Frarxa Har. This most Cipu.e has an open erown, is made of gold colored-erepon Cross bands of the same In front shaped jet, j*t are placed on each side beck a large rose Strings velvet ribbon; in the with buds and foliage. black velvet ribbon. No. 953. Na, 952, Curnp's Croax. —This bean- iful little cloak, designed for a child tive years old, is made of light cream- colored cloth with buttons and braid of a darker shade. The frontsare straight, closed inthe centrean | ornamented with the brad arranged to form lozenges, This design forms, so to speak, a sort of insertion between the two rows of bat. tons on each side. The straight full sleeves are finished with wrist-banda, A double cape formed by two gathered flounces reaches almost to the elbows, The beading of the upper cape forms the collar, Hat in pale, old-rose-colored silk with knots of white ribbon, No. 953. Brmaxrasr Cap.—-White lace four inches wide and p nk ribbon two and a ball inches wide are use! in making this cap. Fold a half yard of the ribbon ovr over san inch wide band of #'iff net; join the ends at the back. This forms the frame. Let a lance frill aronnd the edge and heal it by a twisted ribbon crossed st the back. Then join two yurds and = quarter of lace at the straight ed es, snd arrange it at the top of the frame as seen in the ilinstration. Place a knot of ribbon at the leit side of the ront a — AX eastern exchange states that a new plan has been devised for treating buildings with antiseptic vapor. Fresh air Is forced into ducks by a fan, over material saturated with the essence of eucalyptus, pinol, or any other snti- septio and aromatic extract of a voila tile nature. People who eannot go to the expense of the machinery neces sary to thus medicate the air in thelr homes will find that weak solutions of ¢irbolle noid, or other antiseptic ma terial, if put iuto the water tanks of their furnaces, will do the work quite thoroughly. ye IMPORTANT EVENT IN THE LIFE OF A YOUNG BRAVE. AN His Courage and Physical Endurance Put to a Bevere Test. A sun dance is a more important svent in the life of a young Bioux buck than the “coming out” ball of a society debutante, for in his case it transforms a boy into a warrior, and gives him a standing in his band that he must looked upon with contempt as a “‘coflee-cooler,” an expressive term used by the meaning achieve, or be Indians, who around a camp to beg for what is left after his betters have been served. one hangs No buck can appear in council and talk—a function as dear to the Indian's heart as it is to unless he has the physical discomforts of this ceremonial gone through with dance. The dance, which lasts about two days, occurs about once a year, in J#ly August. There were 14,000 15,000 Indians present. This mounted and on foot, were or or crowd, centering having begun with the first rays of the sun, all of the dancers having spent sun to rise, The (or house) was an immense circle, inclosed Wa-che-pee tepee filled in with brush, with a shade the same built over the top. a powerful sun. All around this cir- cle, on the posts supporting the shade, were hung banners of different colored Buffalo of hides and the calicoes, painted gaily decorated shields material, 2f a circus, In the center of the circle was plant buffalo were hung banners, lariats, Of painted porcupine quills, bundles of beads, medicine bags, bunches bird's feathers and large figures of This pole of is the the ey ening: of the allowed to par- ww & number maidens 4 omy part women are They are even ox from the inclosure uriosity Ih the outside brush, orchestra, The entrance, consisted Jocated of by as choice a opposile the #ix enormous tom-toms, operated 'S murdered music. The dance, being continuous from the rising of the sun until its going down on the second dav, requires unceasing music, so there was a detail of musical experts to relieve each other at stated inter- vals, The dancers, more than 15(—most of them youngsters going through the ordeal for the first time-——are ranged spround the center pole, keeping time with the tom-toms with a peculiar step that requires one foot at a time to be raised, while the weight of the body is brought down on the heel that is touching the ground. The body is crouched and bent forward with the arms raised, the right arm being ex- tended above the head when the left foot is down, and the left arm when the right foot is down, This alternat- ing motion constitutes the dance, and can be kept up without gaining ground. But the fresh youths occasionally spring both backward and forward and thereby elicit applause. All the time the dancers mast face the sun and look at it. They are not allowed anv head covering, and are sirippad naked. except a breech clout. The dancers hold in their mouths whistles, made of the bones of turkeys’ wings, which they blow as they breathe, the object being to keep the mouth dry. They are not allowed water or food during the whole time of the dance (about forty-eight hours). To intensify their desire for water, which is the harder of the two to bear, several phifanthropists go among them with water, which they pour from a cup into a bucket in front of the dancers so they can see and smell it, These philanthropists are accompanied by good Samaritans, who assist the power of the sun by flashing light from a looking-glass into the dancers’ ayes. Only the most tender-hesrted of these cultured children of nature are intrusted with these delicate missions, and they must belong to diffwent lodges than the dancers they appear before. Their desire is to break down the dancers, while it is a matter of pride with the members of the lodges to which these youngsters belong to succeed, and it is permissible for a buck, not one of the dancers, to go alongside of a tired friend and let him lean his back against him, both keep- keeping up the dance. Although the dance was not more than six or seven hours old when we appeared, there were several dancers being assisted in this manner. The only cessation of the allowed the dancer (each one gets his chance) is when the Big Man, who the center pole, calls him up to be opera- dance Medicine stands near ted upon. But he is only permitted to stand still long enough to endure that consists in made in the flesh or his back blades, through pleasure, which having of below which his the are incisions breasts on shoulder mre lariat, either a& buffalo head ora taken from the pole, voice orate the to his exploits in cle, and in a loud crowd, telling of This dance I'm telling of audience present had been actively en- gaged in it. Custer massacre, and several the These orators talk well, and what they say is listened to with It the to the deeds described, and keeps the dan- great attention, fires young emuiale ordeal which will entitle them tell even if it only consists in Lo ap- pear and what they have done, the Killing of an old Ponca squaw. Sun dance is a fair trial of a man’s And has successfully ability to endure discomforts. he is entitled to Smith, in Pittsburg Dispatch. —— ——— — Beecher and Ingersoll. The yory Mr. Beecher has gone to rest. often buoyant gle and } now; bi remain, and those ng reinetn- lent: 11s HY, if, but one of th fina party siring to sec a tilt between Bob and The Colonel views termed it. de fended his usual apt rhetoric; in fact, he waxed eloquent. He was replied to by several gentle- men in very effective repartee. Con- trary to the expectations of all, Mr. Beecher remained an abstracted listen er and said not a word. The gentle- man who introduced the topic with the hope that Mr. Deecher would answer Colonel Ingersoll, at last re- marked : “Mr. Beecher, have you noth ‘ng to say on this subject 7’ The old man slowly lifted himself from his attitude and replied, *Noth- ing; in fact, if you will excuse me for changing the conversation, I will say that while you gentlemen were talk- ing my mind was bent on a most de plorable spectacle which I witnessed ‘oday. at once in his was walking down town today I saw a poor blind man on crutches, slowly and carefully picking his way through a cess-pool of mud in the endeavor to cross the street. He had just reached the middle of the filth when a big, barly ruffian, himself all bespattered, rushed up to him, jerked the crutches from under the unfortuanate man and left him sprawling and helpless in the pool of dirt which had almost engulfed him.” “What a brute!” said the Colonel. “What a brute he was!” they all echoed. “Yer,” anid the old man, rising from his chair and brushing back his long white hair, while his eyes glitter- ed with his old-time fire, as he bent them on Ingersoll—<Yes. Colonel Ingersoll, and you are the man, The human soul is lame, but Christianity gives it crutches to enable it to pass the highway of iife. It is your teach. ing that knocks the crutches from un der It sua leaves it a helpless and rud- deriess wreck in the slough of despond. if robbing the human soul of its only support on this earth—religion—be - | your yrofessios, why, ply to your heart's content. It requires an archi. tect to erect a building; an incendisry may reduce it to ashes.” The old man sat down and silence brooded over the scene. Colond Ingersoll found he had a master in his own power of illustration and sald nothing. The company took thelr hats and parted. A ————— Boston’s Woman Barber, Jennie L. Dodge, a New Hampers girl, has the reputation at present of being the only woman barber in Doe A few evenings since a writes climbed up a short flight of stairs huso the cosey little room of the feminine Mise Dodge has been In the fince 1898, Miss ' as she ls called by nearly all of her regular ous than ordinary ton. hairdresser. barbering busintess Dodge, or “Jennie,” tomers, has had more nceess in her occupation, and averages rast is neatuoss There are pictures on the nile the and Jennie Is a rapid workwoman, and would certain 8 | $22 per week, a very tidy sum it t be admitted. Her shop | personified. wall, brie-a-brac on the mantel and } shelves, and books and has i foes all the work herself. papers on ! | table. She ouly one chair, ly make it quite interesting for some { of her speedy wale fellow members of the profession were she to enter a oom» | petitive test. Jennie does not have aay nonsense with “fresh” newo ners ih ml a how tu We gives him a look the She is a tall, muscular woman, 1 strong countenance, u ! | i | i i poritive | voice far from being Kittenish, | ever a forward fellow underta act 100 smart she first time, and if the offence is repeated she points to the door and ina o- that invites him ® get out means “business” They i i i i | { ' or 20. Ex-Governor Sprague still ovewpits Lis fine and famous country-seat, “Ca h is one of the polntsof interest to the summer visitor ul Now nonchet,” whi Pier. The house has akxty are all handsomely Gan court oul intain in the centro and plants in bloom ragansett F rooms, which i nished. here is a Roman ide, witha f A big mas agile greyhounds ross sb -——— er ——— Blue and Silver. Patti's drawing room at Cragey- Nos on of blue and sib Oriental tangin IO and © is dart ted the diva iring ber career. Fore wt is a did et from ber wlmirers in Francisco, and then 18 a silver casket from her conf- reves at the Vienna Opera House, birds of solid gold set with precious stones, a tiny piano stalded with emeralds and rubies, exqaisitely devised frames, deli. cate china, painted fans, and pretty sow venirs strewing evey table and the ' shelves of every cabinet in the room. A grand plano of Steinway’s is also hers, and looming over it, with warrior as pect, a portrait of Co'onel Mapleson In tue uniform of Lis Tower Hamiet copa, 8 described as a vis ver brocade, Zs, Lures presse: i most Ble gob SAD {lere meteoric stone suggests some very lo» teresting queries. It is commonly be lieved that meteors are fragments of other worlds accidentally thrown eat side their usual orbit into that of the earth. The question is whether his gold where it originated was the omase of as much strife and conteation as it bas for ages been on this plames W. A. Merryday, of Polatka, Fla, bee an owl that 1s as Lame as his store eat day long the “Irishman's parrot” resis oa the rafiers overhead in the graio recom. The cat and owl have formed a strong a8 tachment in the last four months for each other, and it is not sn unusual sight for the cut to go off and retura with a ret for his owlship. In return for the Kindness: the owl will take its paw and scratch the cat's fleas, when pussy will purr and rab up against the owl's feathers, both locking periectly happy all the while i i ’ : Hexny VILLARD has a great for uniting the Twin cities ia the of electricity generated by the Falls St. Anthony. If he succeeds the skeps tic wiil no longer doubt that elecirisity is the miracie-worker of the age. Ix Siam you oan get good board fou 5 cents a week, and this ivel washing, the usc of two servants mn strands, tickets to shows, three shaves and all the cigars you oom smoke. But the 45 cents a weal, aby there's the rub. RE Two lronclad frigates are ® built in England for the Russisa in the Balua Guxenar Howano is of opinion as General Crook, Apaches are good. docile should |e sent back to Arizoas —————s Tux hen of the United States worth to this country on sonal account last year according 0 the bureau slatistion
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers