DIAGNOSING LADIES’ FEET, | in Important Part of nn Shoemakers Work. Shoes or foot coverings of some sort dave been and will continué to be worn 1s long as there is any one left to wear hem, but fashion is making such a thange in the styles that the shoe of the past, and the not very long past, dither, and that of the present are widely dissimilar, indeed. In thedays of old all shoes were made for service, Care was taken in selecting the stock, he work was all performed by hand, | wd the result was a shoe that had ome wear in it. In these days of heap, ready made shoes, a great change is noticed, especially in ladies’ iLoes. Instead of being made exclu- sively for service, they are made for thow, and that is about all there is to ' some of them. A Times-Star reporter called yester. | day at the shop of a veteran shoe maker, and gleaned some information | ou the subject of shoemaking in its many forms. “‘Isn’t there even a great difference in the style of shoe of to-day and that of say fifteen or twenty years ago?” was one of the questions put by the! reporter. “There's where you make a mis ake,” was the response. There are only five kinds of ladies’ shoes, the button, front lace, side lace, tie and’ slipper. The siyles, as you call them, are only different trimmings. There is 2 growing tendency for trimmed shoes, and some very fancy designs are got | ten up. One of the tolerably late shoes is the undressed kid, and it will prob- ably be very much worn. The mate- rial is soft and pliable, cool, and is of about the same cost as dressed kid, of which most of the ladies’ shoes aro uow made.” * “What is the difference in effect be | tween a ready-made shoe and one that | is made to order, on the foot, with! reference to corns and banions?” was asked. , “All the difference iu the world. In making a ready-made shoe thousands of pair; are turned from one style of last, and it is safe to say that on an average not one foot in a hundred will | exactly conform to the dimensions of that last. Now, imagine the other ninety-nine pairs of feet thrust into | thoes that are not their exact shape. | They are wider here, smaller there, the instep is too high or too low and | many other kindred faults. This | squeezing and compressing of feet is going to injure them in some way and | the most common form it appears in is in the stape of corns and bunions, Hence corn doctors are multiplying. “It is diferent with a shoe made by | mensure. The customer comes in, sits i~ a chair and removes ber shoe. The first thing she is ordered to do is to place her foot on the leaf of the order book. Then we trace the outline of the foot as it appears in its natural state pith ths weight of the body on it. Then the usual measurements of tle foot are taken and we are ready to prepare the last. A man to measure properly should be able to diagnose a customer. For ins'ance, a person with | a fle hy foot can stand a tight shoe, whereas the thiv, nervous foot can not stand one with comfort. All these little things ceunt in making ease and comfort. When the last is prepared it will be the exact shape and size of the cu tomer’s foot. To fit this we cat our mulerial and the result is that when the shoe is completed it is exactly al’ ‘hat » shoe is intended to be. The reporter was sown a numbe: of lasts, each of which was marked with some lady's name. After one measurement shoes can be made in any style on the same last and a perfect fit will be secured. One last was shown the reporter which the shoemaker had used in making a lady's shoes for twealy years. The only alteration mude on it in all that time was the tacking on of a piece of leather on the | aa make it higher. From this it would seem that the females instep im- proves with age. The cost of a custom shoe, of course, is a great deal more than the ready made shoe, inasmuch as the material for one pair costs the small desler almost as much as a finished ready made pair.—Cincionati Times- Star. BE we I A i SSI Mr. McSwat’s Economy. “I could never see,” briskly observes, Mr. McSwat, as he leaned a new pane of glass 28x36 carefully against the wall, jaid the sash containing the brok un pane on the dining-room table, removed his- coat, and otherwise oleared the decks for action, “why any msn should y 8 glazier » $2 bill for # job of this kind when he can do it himself at a cost of less than half that figure. Hand me that case-knife, Lo- bolia.” Mrs, McSwat complied with his re guest and he began to dig out the bard putty and bits of broken glass still re- maiviog in the sash. “These glaziers,” he continued “ain't satisfied with a moderate profit. Thoy want to hog the whole thing. This pane of gines cost me 75 cents, and these t.ree-cornered tin figgers and this lump of putty were thrown in. A glazier have bought the ottfit for 50 cents, and then he'd have made $1.50 for about twenty minutes’ work. Catch me paying any such ! Lobelia, take this putty end re MeSw / ach ole had slipped Mr. at's : wod his hand bad ~olided violoat} with a plece of broken glass. ger, you have cut yourself!” exclaim. od his wife. “It's nothing, Lobelia,” he sald. “A man may expect a little scratch or two when J's 8 work of ils ina, dinged putty comes out awful bard. Gol-lee for gosh all snakes! There's pnother gash. Get me a quick’ Don’t stand there with your Soa in our mouth. Do you want me W to death right here?” “Don’t work at it any more, Billl- ger,” pleaded Mrs. McSwat. “You'll cut your hands all to pieces.” “Who's doing thi job?” roared Bil liger, as he wrapped hls thumb in the handkerchief his wife had given him, “Stand out of my way!” For the next half-honr he pranced about the table, digging out hardened putty, prying out splinters of glass, ind varying the monotony of the ex- ercise by occasional remarks of a par- sxysmal and incendiary nature, At last, however, he laid the sash ready for the reception of the glass. “Lobelia,” he called out, “is the putty ready?” “Of course it is,” she replied. 1 worked it ti'l it was nice and soft and put it on the table where you could get it when you—oh Billinger! You've wer my nice rug!” “It'll wash out, Lobelia,” said Mr. McSwat reassuringly, and he gathered up the putty and rolled it into a lump again. “Now I'll put the glass in. ; Anybody that can’t put in a pane of | common window-glass,” he went on as be lifted the sash, ‘no matter how big i 't is, ougit to be” — Crack! “It's only a corner, Lobelia. It will" Crack! “Blame the everlasting dad-squiz- Crash! Smash! Jingle! “Blank the whole billy-be- dash- blanked business!” Mr. McSwat tumbled the 1emains of jumped up and down on them, and howled, while Mrs. McSwat retired to an upper room, locked the door rawled under the bed and wept. Mr. Dilliger McSwat the next day paid a 85 bill to & glazier for doing the job, and told him in a voice of thunder, him! Great Is the Power of Impudence, The half of the effectiveness of im- pudence is not realized by the great majority of mankind, which is fortun- ate in so far that if they comprehend it t would be impossible for society to to exist upon its present foundations. He who has impudence n the world than Ie who has beauty, strength, wit, intelligence or wisdom, ill of which are vet esteemed good hings in their way. He is even better provided than the man »f others, is above mililonaires, while as to learning and mere ability hey are as chaff upon the wind before good wholesale impudence. ——— Sunset Cox Sald “Matrimony.” The following little anecdote shows he ready wit of the Ino S. 8. Cox. It was during his visit at Huron, 8. D., hat & young lady accompanied by her rest young man, was introduced to the wnored guest. Extending her hand to 3m, she said, very gushingly: “OB, Mr. Cox, T am so glad to know ron and hear you speak. Just say one word, one single little word, that [ can way I have heard your voice.” The roguish statesman squeezed ten- lerly tho soft white hand that was laid n his, glarced at the faces of the roung couple standing before him, and n a sweet, low voice said: “Matrimony.” "Tis unnecessary to state that the day was 200on named. ———— Took Undue Advaniage. They were sitting in a dimly-lighted jorner ander the balcony in the hall bere the church fair was being held. “Is your eyesight good. Mr. Folli- sud?” she asked. What does it say wm that sign over the table away wross the hall.” “Itmays ‘T-A-K-E 0-N-," Miss Flyrte,” mid Mr. Follibud, slowly spelling out he letters. “Ilow sharp-sighted you are!” said she admiringly. And then |e took the int, but instead of taking one kiss the sorrid thing took twenty-three. —Som- wville Journal. A ——— AS Toe Long te Wait, Elderly but Rich Admirer—I know, ny dear Miss Lilian, there is some dis- parity in our ages, but it is rot too great, [ hope. I have known cases ia which Yourg Beauty — Please excuse me ‘or asking, Mr. Means, but what is rour uge? I shall be fifty-three years old one week from next Friday, Miss Lilian. (With a sigh)—The disparity is not jreat enough, Mr. Means, by about wenty-five years.—Chicago Tribune. sittin Why They Pleased Him. Elevaied Railway Official (traveling neoy. on his own line)— ‘They say here has been some fant found with ho lamps on these trains. Do you see siything wrong with them ?” sesguger—No, si. On the con rary, they are exactly the kind of amps I like to see used in cars.” Raflway Official (highly pleased) ‘1 presume you are a professional aan Passenger—Yes, sir, enlist.” or I WAAR The Rule No! the Exception. Husband These trousers that i vant to wear on the fishing party mve not a single button on.” Wife (sweetly) “Then, John, if y is drowned I shali be able o identify your body from the others.” Husband (savagely )--*‘No, you won't, dither; the others are all married men, 00."~=Smith, Gray & Co.'s Monthly, | CURIOSITIES OF FASTING, — - 1 ftrange Customs That Prevail or have Pres 1 walled ir Lout, | | Inthe early Chitatian Church wine was as much forbidden nas meat to those who were fasting, Very terrible must have been the ancient days cf | Holy Week that were classed under the { euphonious title of Xerophagy, when the only food allowed was bread and salt, to which, in certain localities only, vegetables were added. The rules con- j cerning Lent varied greatly in differ- ent localities for several centuries. A writer in the fifth century mentions that in certain places it lasted only three weeks, in others six, and in { some as much as seven. Then there were countries in which the Lenten fast was kept on every day of the week. Sunday was omitted in others, | and elsewhere there was no fasting on’ either that day or Saturday. The Cis- tercians, who did so much in the Mid+ dle Ages for agriculture in this coun. try, used to last from the 14th of Beps | tember until Easter, eating neither’ meat, fish, nor eggs. | To this day in the Roman Catholi. Church the fast days vary greatly ix different countries and even dioceses and although its Lent now begins or ends on the same days throughout the world, there is considerable difference in the rules for keeping it in certain localities. Then with regard to Ad- vent there is some diversity, In the' fifth century it was kept as a general 1 fast of forty days, from Nov. 11 till Christinas. This custom has so died land Roman Catholics are made to fast on the Wednesdays and Fridays in| Advent, there is no such rule on the Coniinent, except in religious houses, A curi- lowing a certain water-fow! that feeds the year on which other flesh meat is forbidden, We think, however, that many people who have once tasted this particula- delicacy will not be likely to avail themscives of the privilege a second time. The most interesting ex- ceptional ru'e connected with absti- nence is one that exists in Spain. It seeins that at the tune of the Crusades all who contributed a fixed annual sum were dispensed from certain days’ of abstinence by a Papal Ball, and this dispensation has never been with- drawn. As the tee required has now become a mere trifle through the de- t srioration in the value of the money (about a couple of shillings), the dis pensition has fallen within the reach of ni st people, nnd the funds thus ae cumuiated devoted to charitable purposes It is interesting unre to remember that when the rules about fasting were far stricter among Roman Catholics in Eogland than they are now, such a thing as eating fish during Lent was unheard of, and the fast days at other times being then much more numerous than at present, it was very difficult for those living inland to get any fresh fish caught in the sea, and that the po- tatoe, tu say nothing of certain other vegetables, had not vet been introduced into this conutry. Tea and coffee were unknown, as also wer: tobacco and many o her little Juxuries which tend to make a day of fa.ting or abstinence far from intolerable in modern times. Nor should it be forgotten that eggs were not allowed on fast days in the middle ages. Cheese, milk, and butter were lon; forbi.den. The permission to est meat at the ‘one weal” on every day in Lent except Wednesdays and Fridays and the last four days of Holy Week is very modern indeed: nor is it universal. Another modern innovation is the toleration of the cus- tom of taking a little tea or coffees with a few mouthfuls, which are not to count at all, at breakfast time, as well as the “half meal,” which with certain restrictions, is allowed under the title of collation later on in the day. mms API The Infantile Don'ts. Even the baby is the victim of re form. Methods employed twenty years ago are intolerable in the nur. sery of to-day. The infantile don’ts are almost as numarous aa the etiquettical negatives. Among the approved sre: Don’t rock the baby. Dow’t let him sleep in a warm room. Don’t let him sleep with his head under cover. Don’t let him sleep with his mouth open. : Don't “pat” him to sleep. i Don't try to make him sleep if he is pot sleepy. ) Don't lot him nap in the afternoon. Pou lot isn be kissed. n't lot him wear any t that | 1s tight enough to bind his ot i waist ar wrists, ‘Doa’t have ball-buttons on the back of his dress. | Don’t have clumsy sashes on the back of his dress. Don’t coo! his food by blowing it. Don’t feed him with a n Don’t use & tube nursing-bottle, : Don't change the milk you started with. Don’t bathe him in hot or cold water. Don’t bathe him more than three times a week. Don’t allow a comb to touch his head. Don’t let him eat at the family table. Don’t let him taste meat until he is’ two. Don’t let him sleep on a pillow. ‘Don’t coax, tease, torment, mimic Don’t make him or scold him. Pont notice en he pouts. m. i Don’t whip bim. Don hi Don’t put him fn short shoes. Daw't dance, jump or dandle him, Dot ¢ verfeed him, Don't let him sleep with an adult. Don’t place Lim face to face on a bed, or in a carriage, with another thild. Don’t let him swallow things or eat sshes, Don’t let him roll downstairs. Don't let him fall out of windows. Don't teach him to walk. Don’t wash him with lye soap. Don’t let him chew painted cards. | Don’t expose his eyes to the sun un- | less protected by a peaked het or, veil. . Don’t scream in his ear. Don’t rap him under the chin, Don’t lift him by the wrists or arms, Don’t starch any of his clothes, Dou’t allow him to wear wet bibs. Don’t worry him. Don’t give him anything to est he- ‘ween meals, ——— ——— Toeing the Scratch. There had been some hard words be- near as I could make out. Moses was blacking my boots on the veranda when Julius came around from the kitchen, and began : “Look heah, boy; Ize dun got my eyeball on yon, an’ de fust thing you know I'll pound you to squash!” “Shoo! Does you know who you is conversin’ wid?” demanded Moses. “Doan’ you {alk to me dat way, black man.” “Who's black man?’ ««You js.” “Youn was a liar, sir!” “So was youl” “Look out, boy! A feller dun call me liar one time, and the county had to bury him.” “An' you look out for me, black man; I'ze mighty hard to wake up, but when I gits aroused I woz pizer all de way frew.” “Shoo! 1 just want to say to you dat de las’ fight I was in it took eight men to hold me. Doan’ you get me mad, boy, doan’ you do it.” “Bum! I dass put out my hand right on yo’ shoulder.” **An’l dass put my hand on yours.” “Now, what yer gwine ter do?” “Now, what you gwine ter do?" “Shoo “Shoo !™ And after standing in deflance for & moment, each backed slowly away and went about his business, 10 renew the “defi” at the first opportunity, and always with the same result.—Brook- ‘vn Eagle. The Conrt Was With Him. A lawyer was making his maiden effort before a jury in defense of a criminal. The evidence was all in, “td he arose to utter the brilliant thoughts that had been surging through his brain. He was primed for a fine display of oratorical pyrotechnics, but somehow or other he could not get a start. His mind became a blank and he stood trembling for a mom nt. Then waving his arms he began: *May it please the Court and gentle- men of the jury—My—ahem! My-— Officer, kindly get me a drink of water.” He waited for the attendant to return and tried to gather his faculties. After taking a sip of water he began again: “May it please the Court and gentlemen of the jury, 1 am bappy— Hoyos." Alter a pause he again extended his arm and exclaimed: ‘May it please the Court and gentlemen of the jury. My unfortarate client—." This impressed him as a particularly bad opening, so he again hesitated. “Go on, counsellor,” sald the Juuge, encouragiogly, ‘‘so far I am with you.” —~Lhicago News. Wealth of the United States, The rapid increase in the wealth, business and prosperity of the United States during the last ten vears is simply marvellous. The total wealth of the country is now 871,459,000,000, equal to ly $1000 per head. This ls an increase in fen years of $18,000,000, 000 or 42 per cent. England's wealth in 1885 is given as $50,000,000,000, giving an average wealth per head of $1,245. The ave in Scetland is $1,215 per head, and in Ireland $565. The total wealth of France is estimated at £36,000,000,000. England exacts in taxes $20 per head of population, while each individual in the United States pays but $12.50. America will pro- duce 9,000,000 tons of iron this year, while England's greatest production ® 8,600,000 tous. em ——— A Lively Sitting. “I byah dah wus a pooty libaly time down till de pokah ‘semblage at Mistah Jenkins’ las’ night.” “Yes: I don’ quit de game foh 11 o'clock.” ““Whuffoh “Well, 1 couldn’ quite un’stan’ some ob de pecoolyahties ob de pack of kyahds.” “What wus it roused yoh spichons ?” I hel’ foh jacks.” “Yes.” ““An’ in abs*n’ mindedness, drawed foh ernuddah.” “ u' * Post Young HISTORICAL, The steamship Bavaunah made the first ocean voyage in July, 1819, sailing from New York to Liverpool in twenty: The government of St. Domingo, which claims to have the only original bones of Columbus, is desirous of forwarding them to the United Btates for use in 1893, provided they be given in return for them $20,000 cash down, and twenty per cent. of receipts on public exhibition of the same, The repeal of the embargo, which re- 1, closed the long reign of Piesident the remark of John Randolph was des- tined to remain true, that there been any administration which went out of office and left the nation in a state so depiorable and calamitons.” ~In a secluded spot in Westminister Abbey, in careful keeping, are pre- kings and queens that, according to old custom, formed part of the pageantry of their state funerals. times, are stripped of their robes; but some others that are not much more forms of the royal dead to their sor- rowing lieges. Tudor times was a new thing in Fng- lish history. In earlier days it had not lowing of 100 or 200 gentlemen in liv- ery sud white frieze, lined with crim- son taffetas, and to spend two or three times their yearly ificome in a merry life of dicing, card-playing and hunt- and Highgate, and in buring dresses and processions, where the greatest nobles of the land accepted the honor »f bearing the queen’s litter. A correspondent to the Pall Mall Gazette sends the following extract from Pepy’s Diary, which is very il- lustrative of the dangers of a mild Winter. After recording in August, 1661, “a sickly time both in the city and country everywhere (of a sort of fever) that never was heard of almost uniess it was in the plague time,” he makes on the 15th of January, 1662, the following remarkable entry: «156th January, 1662 . A fast day order- ed by the Parliament, to pray more seasonable weather; it having hitherto been Summer weather, that it is, both as to warmth and every other thing, just as if it were the middle of May or June, which do threaten = plague (ss all men think) to follow, for so it was almost the last Winter: and the whole vear after hath been as very sickly time to this day.” s———————————— The Mother-in-Law Was Surprised, A well-known young man in town who became the father of twins the other morning, grew so elated over the event that he proceeded to trifle with the telegraph to the extent of twenty-five cents, and wired his mother-in-law in Chicago in this jubi- lant, jag-on strain: “Twins born! Head us off!” The next day he was surprised by » sudden swooping down of the mother- iu-law upon him, bathed in tears and full of anxiety, even as the proud father had been full of a sweeter spirit ever since the advent of his heirs. The mother-in-law had been shocked at the receipt of the telegram, for a wicked and soul-hardened telegraph operator had construed the message so that the horrified grandmother df the two innccents resd it: “Twins born! Heads off.” Toledo Blade. a ————— The President and Consul News Spats. “When I was getting ready to come to England,” says the Hon. John C. New, Consul-General, “my tailor in Washington told me that I must surely wear spats, and he made me a pair of white duck. I wore them by way of experiment ome day te the White House, and I noticed as 1 sat talking fo the people in the Red Room that President Harrison eved me askance. Presently he got up and beckoned me to come outside, and when we got into the ball he whispered nervously : “John, your drawers are hanging down below your pants!” “That rettied the spat question so far as [ was concerned. I'm too loyal an Anigritss Ww Alfact any article of ap 1 that isn’t officia’ly recognized | Tar Chief Executive.” —Chicago ews. ms AIA A SA Snow-Packing, ‘We are not apt to think of the use of «ce, or the obtaining of a f®ezing tem: perature in warm weather to preserve meats and other perishable articles, ay a practice of quite recent origin. Our grandfathers, and even in many cases our fathers, did not cut ice in winter, and accordingly had no store of ii ta draw upon in summer, The natural coolness of an underground cellar had to serve for the preservation of such , articles of food as would be spoiled by heat, and the butter was kept hard by : dangling it in a pail in a deep well. The Romans, however, understood and practised, many centuries ago, the art of maintaining an artificial temper. ature. They were fond of and transported them inland by the | use of snow. Fach oyster was packed in closely compressed snow which was surrounded by a layer of straw, and ‘ that in turn by a wrapping of woolley oyslers, cloth. This method succeeded so well thm | Apicius was able to send oysters from | Brindisi to Trajan the Laucerinue the Emperor These were from Italy, which throughout the ancient times in Armenia oysters Lake Was by WHY famous for the They were in excellence of its oysters. the “Blue Points” of antiquity; and the Emperor Augustus thought so high- ly of the lake which produced them with a i i constant supply of water from the sea by that he provided it cul- | ting an artificial channel at considera- : ble expence, It would be interesting to compare the quality of these ancient oysters with those of our own day, as might | possibly Le done if Lake Lucrinus was } still in existence. But the epot where Apicius gathered his oysters for the { Emperor Trajan js now covered by a four feet | high, which was raised during an earthquake and volcanic { mountain about hundred eruption in 1r 10 the year 15638, The epicurean Emperor Heliogabs lus, undoubtedly understood the art of enow-packing, as described by Apicius, that he ; eat sea fish except at a great He would from the salt water, at for it is related would never distance from the sea. then bring immense of the distribute an expense, great choicest kinds of fish, them among the peasants of the in- land country. quantities and ett Faneuil Hall Visitors. Among the first attractive things that come to the eyes of the visitor to Faneuil Hall, Boston, is a tin sign, on which the following verse appears in letters of white paint: GREETING, Each visitor to Faneuil Hall Msy on the superintendent call; You'll welcome be. “The visitors’ Book” Lies on the table. You may look — And read the name of many a son And daughter, 100; then write yourows ; No fee to pay. With each New Tear We print bow many folks come here, It is estimated that of the grea number of visitors at the hall during the year, about one-third of them take heed of the sign above referred (0 and gign their names and places of resi- dence in the visitors’ book. During the year 1889 there were 2465 names of persons, claiming residences in nearly all parts of the world placed upon the book, which is an increase of 88 over the number on the book of the preceding year. This is somewhat noticeable, because the hall was closed for repairs about three weeks in the summer season when sightseers aie mdst numerous. The book of 1889 shows the number of visitors by months to be as follows: January, 324; Feb- ruary, 280; March, 595; April, 671; May, 965; June, 392; July, 441; Au- gust, 2764 ; September, 1299; October, 975; November, 625; December, $18, Twine With Different Birthplaces. As the Cincinnati, Wabash and Michigan train, north-bound, pulled out of Anderson one morning receatly Mrs. George Carter, who resides of The Duke of Orleans. A correspondent who saw the Duke | of Orleans at bis trial thus speaks of | the youlg pretender: <The Indies thought him charming: the few Re. publicans near me sald that he struck them as a brainless masher. If dressed as a girl, though he is 21, he would have looked girlish and pretty, with a fine fizure. But, as a man, he sirack i me unfavorably. temperament Letrayed in his counten- ance. The complexion is fresh, the features are neatly cut, a little like Queen Victoria's on her early coins, but the jaw Is set and the tr ar | small eyes ars sunk vlogs tagether, fur. | tive, and have no me sage to the world such soul as there is : Jonesboro, was taken ill. Tew min- utes later the lady bad been delivered of & fine boy. The excitement attend saat upon such an occasion had quieted down somewhat when Mrs. Carter's home at Jonesboro in good condition. — Indianapolis Journal.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers