Dew atda Bellefonte, Pa., May 26, 1922. smmm— ART IN CUTTING DIAMONDS Peculiar Properties of the Precious Gem Must Be Thoroughly Under- stood by the Lapidary. r— A diamond cutter, writing for the London Mail, relates some interesting facts as to forms into which diamonds are cut to enhance their luster. A diamond is the hardest substance in nature and cannot even be scratched except with another diamond, while some stones can be cut only with their own powder. Yet the hardest of all can be cleft by a heavy blow delivered in the right direction; that is, parallel to the faces of the eight sides which its crystal shows. It is this property that permits the very large stomes, such as the “Cul- linan” diamond, to be worked. In spite of this, a diamond has the simplest composition of all precious stones, for it is only crystalized car- bon, and a near relation to ordinary graphite, usually called “blacklead.” But it has been formed by enormous pressure in the remotest depths of the earth’s crust, and probably forced to- ward the surface by steam. The principal forms into which a diamond is cut are: Brilliants, with an octagonal face surrounded by many smaller facets. Rose diamonds, with a flat base, above which are two rows of triangu- lar facets, the uppermost terminating in a point. Table diamonds, which are thin stones cut with triangular facets. What makes the diamond so pre- cious is the presence of inward “fire” — the mysterious gleams of blue and red that change with every movement, and which makes such an appeal to our sense of beauty. The charm of precious stones lies in their brilliancy and luster, the in- tensity of the latter depending upon the polish of the surface; for if the stone is dull or uneven the light is scattered and not reflected. The only stones at all approaching it are zircon and the green garnet called “olivine.” The luster of all other stones is vitreous, such as seen on the surface of broken glass. And the third type is that shown by resins. In order to bring out the full beauty of a stone it must be cut in such a way that the facets reveal its splen- dor, and the art of the lapidary rests upon his knowledge of what becomes of the light when it falls upon the stone; so he must understand the laws of reflection and refraction. When a white light is refracted into a colorless stone it changes and is split up into a spectrum. Since the refrac- tive index increases progressively as the wavelength of the light decreases, a normal spectrum is violet at one end and passes through green and yellow to red at the other end; for instance. in the fam'liar rainbow. The width of the specirim also varies, and it is this “dispersion” that determines the “fire.” It would be difficult to name any substance around which has been woven such a web of romance. Safety Deposit Free. The story comes from Scottsburg and it shows all the shrewd persons are not in the large centers of popu- lation. A stranger of ordinary ap- pearance and apparently of moderate means walked into the bank and asked to borrow $5. He was told the bank did not loan such small sums, but when he insisted that the business of a bank was to loan money, that he needed the sum mentioned, and that he had gond collateral, the note was made out, the banker regarding it as a good joke. Then the stranger pulled out $10,000 worth of Liberty bonds as collateral and left them, re- marking that at another bank they had wished to charge him $5 for a safety deposit box to keep them in, but now the bank would keep them for him free, and he would have the bank’s $5 to amuse himself with.—Indianap- olis News. Chilean Oil Field. The most promising petroleum field go far discovered in the Province of Antofagasta, Chile, is that in the pass of Siglia, near the Argentine frontier; but it remains to be seen if the petro- leum will be found in paying quanti- ties. Mechanical Hands to Feed the Arm- less. One disadvantage of lacking a hand is the difficulty of eating at table. Many of the disabled veterans of the great war have lost both arms, and their plight is sad indeed. To give help in such cases, Jean B. A. La Jeunesse, of Alameda, Califor- nia, has devised what he calls an “eat- ing appliance,” most novel and ingen- ious. It is a machine that is worked with the foot. The base of the ma- chine is fastened to the edge of the table by a screw clamp. It supports an upright standard on which an arm is pivoted. One end of the arm car- ries a sort of double claw that is meant to serve as a fork; the other end is weighted. Fastened to the floor beneath the table edge is a hing- ed treadle. When the latter is press- ed by the foot, it pulls a cord which, passing over a pulley, draws the fork end of the pivoted arm down to the food plate, enabling it to seize the food. Release of the treadle causes the weight to lift the fork to the level of the mouth of the person eating, to- gether with the morsel of food. A laborious way to eat, certainly, but better than to depend on being fed by another person. SIGNS OF MODES FOR THE SEASON Frocks Will Have Fullness; Be Longer; Will Have Decora- tive Sleeves. LOOSE SHORT GOAT FAVORED French Have Adopted the Style and Americans are Following.—New Woolen Fabric Good Substi. tute for Silk. Frocks this spring wili have fullness. They will have a little added length, but not an accentuated amount, as- serts a fashion writer in the New York Times. There will be sleeves as decorative as any part of a pageant and drapings in every style allied with fabrics to defy the imagination. The pure essence of smartness will be there, while the actual spring crea- tions, in their newest American and Parisian interpretations, await release to the public. Length of skirts seems to be a fairly well-disputed point. Fashion people insist loudly that skirts shall be long. The fashion people and the fashion models wear long skirts, but the Amer- Rosettes of Fluted and Fringed Rib. bon Trimming a Gown of Silk Crepe. ican women are doing nothing of the sort. Perhaps they will come around with a wild rush to dress as they are bidden, but as yet they have shown no disposition in that direction. Their only feeling for longer skirts is when they wear losely hanging panels which bob about so saucily in the breeze that one can scarcely distinguish whether they are long or not. Still, the fact remains that the newer spring models making their ap- pearance have somewhat longer skirts, though not nearly so long as might have been suspected. We have the loose, short coat for spring. This is something entirely new, for it has sleeves that often are made kimono-fashion. The French have adopted this style, and we are follow- ing, even though we are prone to con- sider the suit as something which must have tightly-fitted sleeves with armholes that are as defined and stitched and shaped as any tailored man’s garment—and sometimes more so. The little, loose coat will be one of the spring features, and while some- times it will have a skirt to match, more often it will be combined with a skirt of some other material and some contrasting color. The coat will be patterned or striped and the skirt will be plain, or the combination will be reversed and the skirt will carry the pattern, while the coat will be plain. With or Wtihout Wraps. Street dresses for spring—those that can be worn with or without wraps to cover them—are perhaps the most in- teresting of all the new dresses. They really form the foundation-note for many costume suits, as they are called, for it is a simple matter to select a wrap or a top coat that carries out the scheme of the dress, once the costume has been given some distinc- tion of design. Lelong models show things which he considers to be the most interesting designs for wear dur- ing the coming season. They have all of the features which make the new frocks popular, and they are made from the materials which will be most used for spring. A dress with a simulated jacket is made of dark blue wool velours, in an extremely light weight. Its edges are braided closely, so that the little ad- dition to the bodice “suggests a jacket. The sleeves are mud * puffed and full, and are gathered into tightly fitted and flaring cuffs, which represent features of the newer type of spring dresses. This dress shows one of those clever usages of panels, making the skirt look surprisingly long at some angles and at others as short as the shortest of them have ever been. The round- ing line taken by the panels at their lower ends adds a portion of charm to the skirt which could not possibly be gained by a straightly cut off line posed at that point. The waistline for this frock is placed at a normal point, and it repeats the succession of rows of braiding used to trim the jacket so effectively. Then, this trimming motif is carried again into the sleeves, where it not only runs around the oddly shaped cuffs, but faces detached strips of the ma- a terial that hang away from the sleeves, from the elbows to the cuffs. Sleeves—always sleeves—sleeves in varying widths and varying styles, are the salient features of the frocks which are notable for spring. Trimmed With Ribbon Rosettes. A winsome dress is trimmed with a series of ribbon rosettes applied te a heavy crepe. The crepe is one of the brownish, goldfish tones, that can stand by itself for coloring, except for the fact that the rosettes are made of a succession of pleated and fringed ribbons in dull reds, and greens and browns. The hat, too, has been cleverly made of a series of the same rosettes set around the brim of a closely fitting turban. And then rows of ribbon, set on straight, around the walstline and sleeves, end at one side of the waist in a fringed series of tags dangling over the skirt where it is draped at that point. This dress shows one of the longer waistline which, from all that can be learned about the coming fashions, is something likely to remain with us for at least another season. This is cheer- ful news for the long, slim figures, which can so well stand the line; but for the shorter women there is every chance they will find the normal waist- line and, in some instances, a line that is higher still, the fashion for them. More and more is the fact disclosed that one places one’s waistline, and the rest of the lines of one’s costume, for the matter of that, exactly where one wishes, for the fashion of individuality grows upon the population as time goes on, More and more women are willing to take the courageous step which stamps them as persons with their very own style of dressing. The newer woolen fabrics for spring are something to be wondered at and loved, for they are woven in so soft and pliable a manner that, from a dis- tance, one cannot tell them from silken materials. The Rodier kasha cloth has made a distinct sensation, for it is being used right and left for the mak- ing of street dresses, two-piece cos- tumes and suits of various sorts. Its chief attribute is that, while it is as soft as any woolen material coming from the looms in many a long year, it is shown in many and vivid color- ings, so that any taste and any style of garment can be successfully car- ried out with this material as a founda- tion. Kasha Cloth is For all the dresses feature serge, kasha used, for it is only beautified serge, with all the surface of a wool velours and all of the foun- dation weave of a serge, to give it firmness and solidity of texture. Then silks have taken a very strong place in the designing and making of clothes for the street which are al- ways the first dresses to be considered for spring. Silks have such strength of texture that they serve excellently for all sorts of frocks for which woolen materials have usually been employed. It takes a long while to turn the mind in the direction of accepting silk as a material for street dresses—es- pecially if one expects them to amount to anything after they have been given any amount of wear. However, such is the perfection of heavy silk as it is woven today that it can fairly stand alongside the lieavier materials and compete with them, on an equal basis. Popular. which used to cloth is now a refined and The Dress of Dark Blue Twill With Red and White B' iid Trimmings. for all the honors of giving steady wear, of providing an economical medium of dressing, and so on, through all the necessary attributes of any ma- terial which attempts to take an honored place among those sponsored by American women for any sort of seasonable wear. Of course, for afternocn or eve- ning wear silks have always been ac- cepted, but this new venture is some- thing that will be welcomed once wom- en come to realize the many ad- vantages that can be gained by wear- ing a material that is so light and comfortable and easy to wear. Favored for Various Garments, Capes of silk, and wrapping coats of silk, and short coats of silk, all come within the new raage of this material. Some of the most picturesque of the modern garments have been made from the new and sumptuous weaves of crepe silks lately put upon the market. One expects to find them clinging and drooping of line, and is surprised to see them with quite an up-standing manner of their own, not usually at- tributed to anything with a silken weave for its texture. The enhanced beauty of these silk outer things is that they can be lined with otner and different colored silks, taking on an added charm thereby. Somehow one silk backed against another silk fs more charming : CENTRE COUNTY CONSERVA-| TION ASSOCIATION SCOUT CONTEST. This contest is open to all Boy or Girl Scouts who are members of Scout Troops in Centre county. All material collected and work for prizes must be done during the present year. That is, between the annual meeting of the Centre County Conservation Association of last year and this year. No specimens are to be collected from labeled plants. Prizes and points will be awarded by judges se- lected by the Association. TROOP PRIZE TROPHY PLAQUE NO. 5023. ’ To be given to the troop scoring the largest number of points. Points to be given on the following conditions: A first prize, 3 points. A second prize, 2 points. Best troop exhibit of Scout work, 1st, 10 points; 2nd, 5 points. Each increase in troop membership over last year, 1 point. A new troop must not count the first twelve mem- bers. Each advance in rank, 1 point. Each Merit badge, 1 point. Troop public service projects, 1 to 5 points according to the judgment of the Scout commissioner. FLOWER CONTEST. First prize to be given to the Scout who has the best collection of fifty or more wild flowers properly mounted and labeled. Second prize to be given to the Scout who has the second best collec- tion of wild flowers properly mounted and labeled, provided he has not less than forty specimens. INSECT CONTEST. First prize to be given to the Scout who has the best collection of fifty or more insects properly mounted and labeled. Second prize to be given to the Scout who has the second best collec- tion of insects properly mounted and labeled, provided he has forty speci- mens. TREE LEAF CONTEST. First prize to be given to the Scout who has the best collection of forty or more leaves of trees properly mounted and labeled. Second prize to be given to the Scout who has the second best collec- tion of tree leaves properly mounted and labeled, providing he has thirty specimens. BIRD HOUSE CONTEST. First and second prizes will be awarded to the Scout who makes and places on exhibit the best bird house. Second prize will be awarded to the Scout who makes and places on exhib- it the second best bird house. A Scout entitled to any first prize will receive “Scout Award” No. 5115, and a suitable book. A Scout entitled to a second prize will receive a suitable book. Flowers and each leaf must be dried flat, mounted separately and secure- ly fastened to a sheet of white paper not less than 8x11 inches, properly la- beled, with the common and scientific name, date when collected, locality from which collected, whether from woods or open land, whether along streams or on high land. All collections must be placed on ex- hibit by 10 a. m. June 22nd, at the meeting of the Centre County Conser- vation at Boalsburg. Contestants may place their own collections on exhibit or mail them to John D. Patterson, Boalsburg, Pa., so as to arrive in time for the contest. There will also be contests in swim- ming, racing and other athletic events. Used to Tell It on Harry. An English peer who has the repu- tation of being stingy in money mat- ters hired a taxi on a wet afternoon to take him to Victoria Station, in London, where he handed the cabman less than the legal fare. The driver demanded another sixpence, but was met with a prompt and firm refusal. “You came the longest way in order to extort money,” declared the man of title. “Why didn’t you drive through St. James’ Park?” “’Cos St. James’ Park is closed,” said the driver; “that’s why.” “Nonsense! I know better,” ob- jected his lordship, sternly. “It’s quite right, sir,” persisted the driver. “They say that Lord (naming the peer who confronted him) dropped a shilling in the park yester- day, and the gates are closed until they find it!” HOOD’S SARSAPARILLA. Vitamines And Your Blood An abundance of vitamines, so nec- essary for the proper nutrition of the body, results from taking Hood’s Sar- saparilla either just before or after eating. This medicine aids digestion, pro- motes assimilation, converts ALL THE GOOD IN YOUR FOOD into blood, bone and tissue, and is of great benefit for humors, eruptions, catarrh, rheumatism, that tired feel- ing and run-down conditions. It is pleasant to take; Re-VITA-lizes the Blood and builds up the whole system. It thus provides an abundance of vita- mines, gives the lips and cheeks the hue of health, brightens the eyes, gives vigor and vim. This is the tes- timony of thousands in letters volun- tarily written. 67-19 Fine Job Printing 0—A SPECIALTY—o AT THE WATCHMAN OFFICE. There is no style of work, from the cheapest “Dodger” to the finest BOOK WORK that we can not do in the most sat- isfactory manner, and at Prices consistent with the class of work. call on or communicate with this office. Ladies Pumps and Oxfords: DC. AT Five Cents per Pair We have placed on tables every pair of La- - dies High Heel Pumps and Oxfords, white, black, tan,"and patent leathers. These shoes are of the very best quality, {but/for the reas- on of high heels we have reduced the price to $1.95 a pair and an Extra Pair for 5cts., or in other words you get two pair of the best shoes made for $2. We have good sizes and widths in the blacks and tans and all sizes in the white. Yeager’s Shoe Store THE SHOE STORE FOR THE POOR MAN Bush Arcade Building 58-27 BELLEFONTE, PA. Come to the “Watchman” office for High Class Job work. Lyon & Co. SPECIALS for MAY Wolich and Misses will find cool, correct, warm weather togs here. Prices 30 to 50 per cent. lower than in recent years. Lyon & Co. LADIES COATS, SUITS AND WRAPS. All Coats and Suits in the ready-to-wear depart- ment are lower priced for this special sale. SHIRT WAISTS. One lot white Shirt Waists, strictly tailored, high or low neck, sizes up to 48. Value $2.50, our price $1.69. ROYAL WORCESTER AND BON TON CORSET. Royal Worcester as low as $1.00. Bon Ton from $3.00 up. Graduate Corsetiers to give you the most comfortable and correct models. ite ag v RUGS. Our line of Rugs is again replenished, Wool, Fibre, Brussels, Axminsters and Velvet. See them and get the new low prices. SHOES. Ladies’ sport pumps in black and white, brown and white and patent leather, special $2.75. Lyon & Co. « Lyon & Co.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers